AMAZON RIVER CRUISE A BIRDING & NATURAL HISTORY ODYSSEY ABOARD ZAFIRO [LIMA BIRD LIST INCLUDED AT END] JANUARY 23–FEBRUARY 2, 2020 A special departure for the Cornell Lab of Ornithology Chairman’s Council Sungrebe. Heliornis fulica. Photo: David Ascanio. Hosted by Cornell Lab of Ornithology staff: John Fitzpatrick, Molly Fitzpatrick & Bramble Klipple VENT Leaders: David Ascanio & Steve Hilty List Compiled by: David Ascanio VICTOR EMANUEL NATURE TOURS, INC. 2525 WALLINGWOOD DRIVE, SUITE 1003 AUSTIN, TEXAS 78746 WWW.VENTBIRD.COM AMAZON RIVER CRUISE A BIRDING AND NATURAL HISTORY ODYSSEY January 23–February 2, 2020 By David Ascanio Photo album: https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidascanio/albums/72157713259326698 Put together great cloud formations, impenetrable forest, macaws and parrots in flight, primates, huge rivers, tanagers, pink dolphins, antbirds, an amazing number of raptors, golden sunsets, and wonderful bird migrations, and you’ll have a comprehensive picture of the Amazon. Then, add to that picture a never-ending mix of cultures, from Amerindian to African and European, and you will be able to describe what we experienced during our Amazon Cruise. Dusky-headed Parakeet. Aratinga weddellii. Photo: D. Ascanio. In six days of birding, we explored three rivers and several tributaries. We also visited channels connecting two parts of a given river, sedimentary river islands in different stages, and oxbow lakes. By visiting each of these habitats we gained an understanding of the importance of microhabitats in the survival of the rich avian diversity of the Amazon. On some days we pulled the skiffs into the flooded forest to discover ferns, bromeliads, and ant colonies seemingly hanging from the tree branches, resembling a chandelier in an enormous cathedral. On other occasions we explored an oxbow lake with floating vegetation, where jacanas and waterbirds lived. Many mornings found us exploring the edge of the flooded forest, and among toucans, Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 2 CLO Amazon River Cruise, 2020 aracaris, tanagers, tyrant-flycatchers, and barbets, we accumulated an impressive list of birds. Other less productive but highly specialized habitats included the sedimentary river islands and the flooded palm stands, and we saw several of the target species associated with each one. I am sharing a short paragraph about each of the locations we visited, and I hope that this will remind you of our special experiences during this cruise! Paradise Tanager. Tangara chilensis. Photo: D. Ascanio. TAHUAYO, where the greenlets rock. Our first Amazon field trip found us on a small river where the vocal Gray-chested Greenlet was observed. As the day opened, the richness of the Amazonian birdlife showed up, allowing views of Mealy Parrot and Red-bellied Macaw in flight, Yellow-headed Caracara and Oriole Blackbird in the river mouth, and a pair of Black-capped Donacobius displaying and thus, performing their distinctive choreography. Many of us admired the unique Varzea’s Schiffornis and reported superb views of the little-known Black-tailed Antbird, a bird found only in black water rivers in the Amazon. LUCERO PATA: the high five location! On the first afternoon we attended a lecture by John Fitzpatrick, who gave us important information about the Amazon River and complemented it with an overview of recent bird taxonomic studies. Later, we boarded the skiffs to visit an oxbow lake. As we entered the channel, we heard and enjoyed superb views of a Parker’s Spinetail. Also, the less easy and shy White-bellied Spinetail was calling and was observed by some of us. In the partly flooded swamp forest, we added the always secretive Castelnau’s Antshrike and enjoyed views of a Green Kingfisher flying-by with a small fish in its bill. Once in the cocha (oxbow lake), we added the rarely seen Yellow-chinned Spinetail and the absolutely gorgeous Red-and-white Spinetail. We also nailed Chestnut-bellied Seedeater, Orange-headed Tanager, and a conebill (I Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 3 CLO Amazon River Cruise, 2020 could not get a long enough view to confirm the species). Upon returning to the ship, we spent time again with the Parker’s Spinetail and got a bonus: a Dark-breasted Spinetail. Altogether, today we had seen five spinetails, and we gave each other a high five for reaching such a goal! On the ride back to the ship we were surrounded by a great Amazon sunset, with pink clouds and golden colors reflected in the river. Spot-breasted Woodpecker. Colaptes punctigula. Photo: D. Ascanio. YARAPA: sungrebe, primates, and macaws. This river is part of a communal protected area, and the fact that they do not allow hunting was reflected in the enormous list of birds seen in the morning! We enjoyed views of several birds, from the common and widespread Squirrel Cuckoo to the shy Green-and-rufous Kingfisher. Given the bird richness, some of us remained at the river mouth and had an incredible experience with a Sungrebe singing from behind the skiff. Other skiffs reported various species of woodpeckers, primates (including the Pygmy Marmoset, the smallest primate in the world!), macaws, parakeets, and woodcreepers. All in all, it was a morning packed with oropendolas, blackbirds, tanagers, euphonias, swallows, tyrant-flycatchers, trogons, and a few birds of prey. SAPUENILLA: two cotingas, at once! This afternoon outing focused on a narrow channel edged by spiny palms (probably in the genus Bactris) and floodable forest. Bird activity was quite slow, although we observed a few euphonias and tyrant-flycatchers. But the dormant forest had a surprise for us, as we were treated with not one but two astonishing species, the Plum-throated and the Purple-throated cotingas! One male of each species sat on bare branches of the same tree and showed off their plumage as if they were having a high-end fashion contest. In all my years guiding this cruise, I have experienced this only once before. We all sat comfortably in our skiffs and enjoyed the show for several minutes, and as the light started dimming, we closed the parade of special birds with a pair of Lesser Kiskadees calling at eye level and giving their distinctive call notes: squeeze me, baby! Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 4 CLO Amazon River Cruise, 2020 YANALLPA: 10+ raptors, woodcreepers, and tanagers. Today we visited one of the most pristine tributaries of the Ucayali, and that is the reason why we saw so many good raptors, including a migration of Swallow-tailed Kites as well as Ornate and Black hawk-eagles. There were also a Double-toothed Kite, a Hook-billed Kite, and a Crane Hawk. In addition, we observed the patchily distributed Black-crested Antshrike, as well as canopy feeding flocks containing dacnises, tanagers, and honeycreepers. We returned to the ship for lunch after we had collected an impressive list of birds. Hoatzin. Opisthocomus hoazin. Photo: D. Ascanio. YURACOCHA: Hoatzin: primitive, odd, stinky, and altogether fascinating! Although our main goal of this afternoon outing was to see the amazing Hoatzin (and we got superb views), we were astonished to experience a stream of birds flying to their roosting grounds, maybe to the Gynerium canes of a river island, and such continuous flow included 6,000+ Eastern Kingbirds, hundreds of Yellow-rumped Caciques, a Crested Oropendola (or two), and dozens of Russet-backed Oropendolas. There were also dozens of Barn and possibly Bank swallows. As we were delighting in counting birds, we were enchanted by the quietness of the peaceful afternoon, with jacanas flapping their yellow wings, a Horned Screamer taking-off in the distance, and another pink, orange, and golden Amazonian sunset. ZAPOTE: Spectacled Owl, little-known passerine birds, primates, and tropical fishes. Another clear-sky morning found us in the mouth of this wonderful channel where we were impressed by an encounter with the superb, beautiful Spectacled Owl in daytime! We also came across loose feeding flocks containing Paradise Tanager, Green-and-gold Tanager, Yellow- bellied Dacnis, and the little-known Slender-billed Xenops. We also had the opportunity to observe the Orange-eyed Flycatcher, one that is rarely seen. Zapote was also a good location to see Squirrel Monkeys, Saddleback Tamarins, and a Monk Saki Monkey. On the way back to the ship we were called by a local fisherman who had found a drowned Anaconda in his gill net, and this gave us the opportunity to learn about tropical fishes in the Amazon. Victor Emanuel Nature Tours 5 CLO Amazon River Cruise, 2020 Blue-crowned Trogon. Trogon curucui. Photo: D. Ascanio. DORADO: Tanagers, primates, and Wattled Curassow! We are so lucky to continue seeing another clear sky day! Dorado has been a key area during previous cruises because of the number of large raptors and other rare birds that we have seen here, and this day was no exception. As soon as we started exploring the forest, it was clear to us that it was going to be a great afternoon. Several psittacids filled the afternoon skies, including Blue-headed, Short-tailed, and Festive parrots. We also saw several Blue-and-yellow Macaws (about a dozen!) and Plum-throated Cotinga; and, by the end of the afternoon, members in one skiff got to see the crown jewel, a Wattled Curassow! A short night outing was very productive with views of Boat-billed Heron, Great Potoo, Tropical Screech-Owl (flash views), and Ladder- tailed Nightjar. YARAPA: Greater Ani migration and Amazonian Motmot. Our last morning on the Ucayali River gave us the chance to enjoy a wonderful dawn chorus, as if members of an impressive orchestra were rehearsing prior to a concert. There were macaws giving their scratchy calls, nunbirds calling-out from an exposed branch, and antbirds being noticed by their distinctive voices from inside the forest.