INDEX

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

GENERAL INDEX African-American Museum Art for Arts’ Sake, 44 and Museum of the Art galleries, 233–236 Acadian Memorial (St. Arthur Hardy’s Mardi Gras AA (American Automobile A Martinville), 312 Guide, 26 Association), 51, 317 A Gallery for Fine Arthur Roger Gallery, 234 The Abbey, 266 Photography, 4, 235 The Artists’ Market, 241 Abita Brewing Company, 191 Aidan Gill for Men, 236 A Streetcar Named Desire Abita Springs, 191 AIDSinfo, 321 (Williams), 16, 54, 221 Academy of the Sacred Heart Airport Shuttle, 50 ATMs (automated teller (Grand Coteau), 303 Air travel, 49–51 machines), 55, 317 Acadian Village (Lafayette), environmentally-friendly, Audubon Aquarium of the 306 62 Americas, 172, 210 Accent Annex, 5 Alexandre Mouton House/ Audubon Insectarium, 173 Accent on Children’s Lafayette Museum, 306 Audubon Louisiana Nature Arrangements, 317 Algiers Point, 71, 192 Center, 210 Access America, 320 All About Me, 239 Audubon Park, 192–193 Accommodations, 82–115. Allstate Sugar Bowl Audubon Zoo, 195 See also Accommodations Classic, 41 Aunt Sally’s Praline Shop, Index Ambush magazine, 60, 273 238 best, 83, 86 American Airlines, 49 Aux Belles Choses, 241 Central Business District, American Automobile Asso- 102–110 ciation (AAA), 51, 317 chain hotels, 105 American Express, 317 aby sitters, 317 environmentally-friendly, B traveler’s checks, 56 Bacchus (krewe), 30 62 America the Beautiful Access Backstreet Cultural Museum, Eunice, 302 Pass, 59 184 Faubourg Marigny, 99–100 America the Beautiful Senior Balcony Music Club, 262 French Quarter, 87–99 Pass, 60 Balfa Brothers, 253 Lafayette and environs, America West, 49 The Bank of Louisiana, 214 307 Amtrak, 51 Bars, 265–273 during Mardi Gras, 24 Andrews, Troy (“Trombone best, 6–7 Mid-City/Esplanade Ridge, Shorty”), 252 French Quarter and Fau- 100–102 Angela King Gallery, bourg Marigny, 266–269 Opelousas, 310 233–234 gay and lesbian, 273–274 at plantations Annie Miller’s Son’s Swamp Tales of the Cocktail, 44 between New Orleans and Marsh Tours (New Bath and beauty products and Baton Rouge, Iberia), 313 and day spas, 236–237 285–287COPYRIGHTED MATERIAL Antiques, 232–233 Baton Rouge Area Conven- St. Francisville and Antiquing tours, 209 tion and Visitors Bureau, environs, 287–292 Apple Barrel, 266 287 St. Francisville, 290–292 Archbishop Antoine Blanc Battle of New Orleans, St. Martinville, 312–313 Memorial, 219 12, 193, 208 Uptown/The Garden Area code, 317 Bayou Food Festival, 37 District, 110–115 Ariodante, 234 Beads, Mardi Gras, 4–5, Aesthetics & Antiques, 232 Armstrong, Louis, 18, 21, 249 28, 29 Satchmo Summerfest, 44 Beauregard-Keyes House, The Brulatour Court, 216 Chalmette Battlefield/Jean 329 174, 219 Bryant Galleries, 234 Lafitte National Historical Beausoleil, 253 The Bulldog, 270 Park & Preserve, 193–194 Bechet, Sidney, 249 Business hours, 317 Chart Room, 267 Beckham’s Bookshop, Bus travel, 53–54 Checkpoint Charlie’s, 262 237, 244 Butler, Henry, 253 Chenier, Clifton, 252 Begue’s at the Royal Sonesta, Bywater, 67, 70 Chickie Wah-Wah, 260 266 Bywater Art Market, 241 Children, families with, 60 Belladonna Day Spa, 236 sights and attractions, Belladonna Retail Therapy, 209–210 242 Cabildo, the 177, 221 Children’s Krewe Bellanoche, 242 Café Lafitte in Exile, 274 (Lafayette), 33 Berta’s and Mina’s Cajun and zydeco music, Children’s Museum, Antiquities, 234 251–254, 294–295 Louisiana, 210 Besthoff Sculpture Garden, clubs, 261–262 Children’s Storyland, 194, 186 Lafayette, 304–305 210 Bicycle Michael’s, 53 Cajun cooking, 122 Christmas New Orleans- Bienville Foundation, 205 Cajun Country, 292–316. See Style, 46 Big Sam and Funky Nation, also specific towns Christmas tree ornaments, 5 253 boudin joints, 303–304 Churches, historic, 188 Biking, 53 people of, 292–293 Circle Bar, 270 The Black Butterfly, 242 Cajun culture, 296–297 City Park, 194, 229 Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras Cajun French, 294 Classical music, 275 World, 192, 209 Cajun language, 293–294 Clear Pass, 47 Blue Frog Chocolates, 238 Cajun Mardi Gras, 32–33 Climate, 40–41 Blue Moon Saloon Calendar of events, 41–46 Clothing, 239–241 (Lafayette), 304 Canal Place, 231 for Mardi Gras, 25 Blue Nile, 255 Canal Street, 70 Cole Pratt Gallery, Ltd., 234 Boat tours, 207–208 Canal Street ferry, 53 Coliseum Theater, 203 evening, 276 Canal Street streetcar, 37, 54 Collectible Antiques, 232 Boingo, 65 Candies and pralines, Colonel Short’s Villa, 222 Bolden, Charles “Buddy,” 248 238–239 Columbus Direct, 319 The Bombay Club, 266 Capote, Truman, 217 The Columns, 270 Bonerama, 253 Carnival, 20 Commander’s Palace Books, recommended, Carousel Bar & Lounge, Restaurant, 226 15–17, 294 266–267 Confederate Memorial Bookstores, 237–238 Carousel Gardens, 210 Museum, 184–185 Boomtown Casino, 211 Car rentals, 52 Congo Square, 200, 247 Botanical Gardens, New environmentally-friendly, Connection kit, 65, 317 Orleans, 194 62 Contemporary Arts Center, Bottom of the Cup Tearoom, Carriage tours, 208–209 185, 275 244 Carrollton Station, 264 Continental Airlines, 49 Boudin joints, 303–304 Car travel, 51–52 The Corner Pocket, 274 Bourbon House Seafood and Cashpoints (ATMs), 55, 317 Costumes and masks, 239 Oyster Bar, 266 Catalpa Plantation (St. The Cottage (St. Francisville), Bourbon Orleans Hotel, 217 Francisville), 289 289–290 The Bourbon Pub-Parade Celebration in the Oaks, 46 Court Building, New Orleans, Disco, 273–274 Cellphones, 64 216 Bourbon Street, 170 Cemeteries, 196–198 The Court of Two Sisters, Boutte, John, 252 tours, 207 203, 216 Boyer Antiques Doll & Toy Washington, 315 Cowpokes, 274 Museum, 203 Centers for Disease Control Cowsill, Susan, 253 Brandy Crusta, 6 and Prevention, 57 Coyote Ugly, 267 Brass bands, 18, 250–251 Central Business District, Credit cards, 55 Breaux Bridge, 298–301 70–71 Creole cooking classes and Brevard-Mahat-Rice House, accommodations, 102–110 demonstrations, 208 225 restaurants, 149–154 Creole cuisine, 122 Briggs-Staub House, 223 Central Grocery, 142, 220 Creole language, 294 330 Creole Queen, 276 Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse, Lejeune’s Sausage Kitchen Creole Queen (paddle- 266 (Eunice), 303 wheeler), 208 Dining, 116–166. See also Lucullus (Breaux Bridge), Creole Tomato Festival, Restaurants Index 298 43–44 best, 117–119 muffulettas, 142 Crescent City Books, 237 Breaux Bridge, 300 New Orleans Wine & Food Crescent City Brewhouse, Central Business District, Experience, 43 267 149–154 Southern Food and Bever- The Crescent City Classic, 43 for coffee, tea, and sweets, age Museum & Museum Crescent City Farmers 163–166 of the American Cocktail, Markets, 73 by cuisine, 124–128 186–187 Cuisine and food, 119, cuisine and menu terms, wines and spirits, 241 122–124 119, 122–124 “Economy-class syndrome” Bayou Food Festival with delivery service, 138 (deep vein thrombosis), 57 (Lafayette), 37 environmentally-friendly, The 1850 House, 174–175 boudin joints (Cajun 62 Electricity, 317 Country), 303 Eunice, 302 El Sido’s (Lafayette), 295, candies and pralines, Faubourg Marigny, 304–305 238–239 143–145 Embassies and consulates, Creole Tomato Festival, French Quarter, 128–143 318 43–44 Grand Coteau, 303–304 Emergencies, 318 Gumbo Festival (Bridge Lafayette and environs, Endymion (krewe), 30 City), 44–45 308–309 Entry requirements, 46–48 Lejeune’s Sausage Kitchen during Mardi Gras, 25 E-Passport, 48 (Eunice), 303 Metairie, 161–163 Esoterica Occult Goods, 244 Lucullus (Breaux Bridge), Mid-City/Esplanade Ridge, Esplanade Ridge/Mid-City 298 145–149 accommodations, 100–102 muffulettas, 142 Opelousas, 311 brief description of, 70 New Orleans Wine & Food St. Francisville, 292 restaurants, 145–149 Experience, 43 Uptown/The Garden walking tour, 226–229 Southern Food and Bever- District, 154–161 Essence Music Festival, 44 age Museum & Museum Ville Platte, 315 Eunice, 33, 301–303 of the American Cocktail, Dirty Coast, 239 Europ Assistance’s “World- 186–187 Doctors, 57 wide Healthcare Plan,” 319 wines and spirits, 241 Donna’s, 250, 255 Evangeline, 311 Curbside check-in, 50 Dos Jefes Uptown Cigar Bar, Evangeline (Emmeline Cure, 270–271 271 Labiche), 293–294 Customs regulations, 48–49 Doubloons, 22 Evangeline (Longfellow), Cypress Grove Cemetery, 198 Doucet, Michael, 253–254 32, 293–294 Cypress Lake, 306 Drinking laws, 317 Evangeline Downs Drugstores, 322 (Lafayette), 305 Dr. Wagner’s Honey Island Evangeline Monument Dance club, gay, 274 Swamp Tours, 206 (St. Martinville), 311 Davis, Jefferson, 184, 190, Evangeline Oak (St. 225 Martinville), 311 Davis Galleries, 234 Eating and drinking, 119, Daylight saving time, 323 122–124 Day spas, 236–237 Bayou Food Festival FAB, Faubourg Marigny Art d.b.a., 262–263 (Lafayette), 37 & Books, 237 Debit cards, 55 best New Orleans drinks, Fahy’s Irish Pub, 268 Decatur Street, 220 5–6 Fair Grinds, 228 Deep vein thrombosis boudin joints (Cajun Families with children, 60 (“economy-class syn- Country), 303 sights and attractions, drome”), 57 candies and pralines, 209–210 Degas House, 189–190, 227 238–239 The Famous Door, 255 Delachaise, 271 Creole Tomato Festival, Fashions (clothing), 239–241 Delta Airlines, 49 43–44 Faubourg Marigny Dependable Kid Care, 317 Gumbo Festival (Bridge accommodations, 99–100 Destrehan Plantation, 283 City), 44–45 bars, 266–269 brief description of, 67 The French Market, 231 Gays and lesbians 331 nightlife, 255–260, The French Quarter information and resources, 262–264 accommodations, 87–99 59–60 restaurants, 143–145 Anne Rice—related nightlife, 273 Faubourg Treme, 70 attractions, 202–203 Southern Decadence, 44 Faulkner House, 4 bars, 266–269 Germaine Wells Mardi Gras Faulkner House Books, 221, brief description of, 67 Museum, 177 237–238 nightlife, 255–260, Gifts and souvenirs, Fax machines, 323 262–264 4, 241–243 Feelings Cafe, 268 restaurants, 128–143 Mardi Gras, 22 Ferries, 53 safety, 58 throws, 22 Festival de Musique sights and attractions, Goddess of History-Genius of Acadienne, 37 170–180 Peace Statue, 227 Festival International de Lou- for kids, 209 Go Fourth on the River, 44 isiane (Lafayette), 36, 304 organized tours, Golden Lantern, 273 Festivals Acadiens (Lafay- 204–205 Good Friends Bar & Queens ette), 37–38, 45 self-guided walking Head Pub, 274 Festivals and special events. tour, 214–221 Good Old Days Buggies, 209 See also Mardi Gras French Quarter Festival, Google, 64 calendar of, 41–46 37, 43 Gospel Brunch, 72 New Orleans Jazz & Heri- French Quarter Wedding Grace Fellowship, 60 tage Festival, 33–37 Chapel, 211 Grand Coteau, 303–304 Festival Tours International, French 75 Bar, 268 Gray Line, 206, 282 37 Friends of the Cabildo, 204 Great Artists’ Collective, Film Festival, New Orleans, 45 Fritzel’s European Jazz Pub, 235, 241 First National Bank of 250, 255 Greek Festival, 43 Commerce, 55 Frommers.com, 61 Greenwood Cemetery, 198 Fleur de Paris, 239 Funky Pirate, 258 GSM (Global System for Floyd’s Record Shop, 17 Funrock’n, 242 Mobile Communications) Floyd’s Record Shop (Ville wireless network, 64 Platte), 315 Guiding Light Missionary Food and cuisine, 119, Galerie Royale, 234–235 Baptist Church, 72 122–124 Galleries, 233–236 Gumbo Festival (Bridge City), Bayou Food Festival Gallier Hall, 190 44–45 (Lafayette), 37 Gallier House, 202 boudin joints (Cajun Gallier House Museum, Country), 303 177–178, 219 Habitat for Humanity, 63 candies and pralines, Gambit Weekly, 321 Hackberry Ramblers, 252 238–239 Gambling, 210–211 Halloween, 45 Creole Tomato Festival, The Garden District/ Hansen’s Sno-Bliz, 165 43–44 Uptown, 71 Harrah’s Casino, 210–211 Gumbo Festival (Bridge accommodations, 110–115 Harrison, Donald, Jr., 253 City), 44–45 Anne Rice—related Hats, 243 Lejeune’s Sausage Kitchen attractions, 203–204 Haunted History Tours, 207 (Eunice), 303 restaurants, 154–161 Health Canada, 319 Lucullus (Breaux Bridge), sights and attractions, Health concerns, 57–58 298 181–192 Health insurance, 318–319 muffulettas, 142 walking tour, 221–225 Heritage Literary Tours, 205 New Orleans Wine & Food Garden District Book Shop, Hermann-Grima House, 178 Experience, 43 202, 238 Hibernia National Bank, 55 Southern Food and Bever- The Garden District Book The Historic French Market, age Museum & Museum Shop, 222 173 of the American Cocktail, Gardens, 194–195 Historic New Orleans Collec- 186–187 Rip Van Winkle Gardens tion-Museum/Research wines and spirits, 241 (New Iberia), 313–314 Center, 178 Fourth of July celebration, 44 Gasoline, 318 Historic New Orleans Tours, Fred’s Lounge (Mamou), 309 Gay.com Travel, 60 204, 205, 207, 213 French, Bob, 252 Gay Men’s Health Crisis, 321 History of New Orleans, 8–14 books about, 15–16 332 HIV-positive visitors, 321 Immigration and customs Hoi Polloi Boutique, 242 clearance, 50 Katy Beh Contemporary Holidays, 318 Insurance, 318–320 Jewelry, 243 Horse racing, Lafayette, International Association for Keil’s Antiques, 232–233 305–306 Medical Assistance to Trav- Kermit Ruffins & the Barbe- Hospitals, 318 elers (IAMAT), 57 cue Swingers, 73 Hot Club of New Orleans, 252 The International Ecotourism Kerry Irish Pub, 268 Hot Eight, 252 Society (TIES), 61 Keyes, Frances Parkinson, Hotels, 82–115. See also International Gay and Les- 15, 128 Accommodations Index bian Travel Association Kids, 60 best, 83, 86 (IGLTA), 60 sights and attractions, Central Business District, Internet access, 65, 320 209–210 102–110 Interview with the Vampire King Cake parties, 22 chain hotels, 105 (Rice), 202–204, 283, 284, Kingpin, 271 environmentally-friendly, 286 King’s Parade (Lafayette), 33 62 InTouch USA, 64 Krewe du Vieux, 22–23 Eunice, 302 IPass network, 65 Krewe of Bonaparte Faubourg Marigny, 99–100 Iris (krewe), 30 (Lafayette), 33 French Quarter, 87–99 The Irish Channel, 71 Krewe of Comus, 24 Lafayette and environs, Irvin Mayfield’s Jazz Play- Krewe of Kosmic Debris, 307 house, 258 26, 28 during Mardi Gras, 24 Island of Salvation Botanica, Krewe of Orpheus, 23 Mid-City/Esplanade Ridge, 201 Krewes, history of, 20–21 100–102 Itineraries, suggested, 74–81 Kurt E. Schon, Ltd., 235 Opelousas, 310 I2Roam, 65 at plantations between New Orleans LaBranche House, 216 and Baton Rouge, Jackson Barracks, 203 Lafayette, 304–309 285–287 Jackson Brewery, 231 Festival International de St. Francisville and Jackson Square, 170, 203 Louisiane, 36, 304 environs, 287–292 Jazz and blues, 247–250 Mardi Gras, 32 St. Francisville, 290–292 books about, 18 The Rayne Frog Festival, 45 St. Martinville, 312–313 clubs, 254–260 Lafayette Cemetery, 226 Uptown/The Garden New Orleans Jazz & Heri- Lafayette Convention and District, 110–115 tage Festival (Jazz Fest), Visitors Commission, 295 Houmas House Plantation & 33–37 Lafayette Conventions and Gardens (Burnside), 286 Jazz Fest (New Orleans Jazz Visitors Center, 38, 304 House of Blues, 263 & Heritage Festival), Lafayette No. 1, 197, 204 House of Blues Parish, 263 33–37, 43 Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop, House of Broel, 211 Jean Lafitte National Histori- 218, 268 House of Lounge, 240 cal Park & Preserve, Laine, “Papa” Jack, 248 Hove, 4, 237 193–194 Lalaurie Home, 218 The Howlin’ Wolf, 264 Folklife and Visitor Center, Language, Cajun, 293–294 Hurricane (drink), 6 205 Latrobe, Benjamin H. B., 214, Hurricane coverage, Jean Lafitte Swamp Tours, 218, 221 expanded, 319 206 Laundromats, 320 Hurricane Katrina, 14, Jeantherapy, 240 Laura: A Creole Plantation, 16–18 JetBlue, 49 284 Jewelry, 243–244 Laura Plantation, 205 Jimmy Buffett’s Margarita- Laura’s Candies, 238 Ice cream, 163, 166 ville Cafe & Storyville Laveau, Marie, 201 Ida Manheim Antiques, 232 Tavern, 263 Layout of New Orleans, 67 IGLTA (International Gay and Joseph Merrick Jones House, Leah’s Candy Kitchen, Lesbian Travel Associa- 225 238–239 tion), 60 Julia Street, 71 Le Chat Noir, 275 IMAX theater, Audubon shopping, 231 Legal aid, 320 Aquarium of the Americas, Jungle Gardens (New Iberia), Lejeune’s Sausage Kitchen 172 313 (Eunice), 303 LeMieux Galleries, 235 Louisiana Native Crafts Festi- Marie Laveau’s House of 333 Le Monde Creole, 205 val (Lafayette), 38 Voodoo, 244 Le Monnier Mansion, 216 Louisiana Philharmonic Marsalis, Ellis, 249–250 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Orchestra, 275 Marsoudet-Caruso House, Carré, 275 Lucullus, 233 203 Le Pretre Mansion, 217 Lucullus (Breaux Bridge), 298 Martin Wine Cellar, 241 LeRoundup, 274 Lüke, 270 MasterCard, traveler’s Let’s Go Antiquing! tours, Lundi Gras, 23, 41–42 checks, 56 209 Lupercalia festival, 20 Mayfield, Irvin, 253 Liberty Theater (Eunice), Medical conditions, 321 295, 301 Medical insurance, 318–319 Librairie Bookshop, 237 McDermott, Tom, 253 Medical requirements for LIFT, 59 McGee, Dennis, 253 entry, 48 Liquor laws, 320 McGee’s Landing Atchafalaya MedjetAssist, 319 Loa, 270 Basin Swamp Tours, 305 Menard, D. L., 252 Lodging, 82–115. See also Madame John’s Legacy, 179, Mercedes dealership, old, Accommodations Index 202, 218 203 best, 83, 86 Madewood (Napoleonville), Merieult House, 216 Central Business District, 285–286 Metairie, restaurants, 102–110 Magazine Street, 181 161–163 chain hotels, 105 shopping, 231 Metairie Cemetery, 198 environmentally-friendly, Magic Walking Tours, 207 Metro Three, 240 62 Magnolia Mound (Baton Meyer the Hatter, 243 Eunice, 302 Rouge), 287–288 Mid-City/Esplanade Ridge Faubourg Marigny, 99–100 Magnolia Ridge (Washing- accommodations, 100–102 French Quarter, 87–99 ton), 315 brief description of, 70 Lafayette and environs, Mahalia Jackson Theater for restaurants, 145–149 307 the Performing Arts, 275 walking tour, 226–229 during Mardi Gras, 24 Mail, 320–321 Mid City Lanes Rock ‘n’ Bowl, Mid-City/Esplanade Ridge, Maison Bourbon, 258 262 100–102 Mamou, 33, 309 Mignon Faget, Ltd., 243 Opelousas, 310 Maple Leaf Bar, 264 Mimi’s, 268–269 at plantations Maple Street Book Shop, 237 Miss Edna’s Antiques, 233 between New Orleans Maple Street Children’s Book Molly’s on the Market, 269 and Baton Rouge, Shop, 237 Monastery Gift Shop, 5 285–287 Maps, 66 Money and costs, 54–56 St. Francisville and Mardi Gras, 19–33, 42 Monkey Hill Bar, 271 environs, 287–292 accommodations during, Moonwalk, 180 St. Francisville, 290–292 24 Morton, Jelly Roll, 248–249 St. Martinville, 312–313 activities, 22–24 Mother-in-Law Lounge, 271 Uptown/The Garden Blaine Kern’s Mardi Gras Muffulettas, 142 District, 110–115 World, 192 Mulate’s, 262 Loft 523, 270 Cajun, 32–33 Musée Conti Wax Museum, Longfellow, Henry Wadsworth, clothing for, 25 179, 209 32, 293 date of, 25 Museum of the American Longfellow-Evangeline State dining during, 25 Cocktail, 186–187 Historic Site (St. Martin- krewes, 20–21 Music, 246–254 ville), 311–312 parades, 21–22 books about, 17 Longue Vue House & viewing, 28, 30 Cajun and zydeco, Gardens, 194–195 parking during, 25 251–254, 294–295 Lost and found, 320 planning a visit during, clubs, 261–262 Louis Armstrong New 24–25 Festival de Musique Orleans International riding a float, 30–32 Acadienne Airport, 49 season of, 22–23 (Lafayette), 37 Louisiana Children’s trinkets and souvenirs, 22 Lafayette, 304–305 Museum, 210 visitor information, 26 classical, 275 Louisiana Music Factory, Mardi Gras Indians, 24, 26 jazz and blues, 247–250 4, 17, 244 books about, 18 clubs, 254–260 334 Music (cont.) New Orleans School of Glass- Opelousas Museum and New Orleans Jazz & Works and Printmaking Interpretive Center, 310 Heritage Festival Studio, 235 Opera, 274 (Jazz Fest), 33–37 New Orleans Wine & Food Organized tours, plantations, recordings, 17–18 Experience, 43 282 Voodoo Music Experience, New Orleans Zephyrs, 212 Original Dixieland Jazz Band, 45 Newspapers and magazines, 249 Music stores, 244 321 Orleans Grapevine Wine Bar Ville Platte, 315 New Year’s Eve, 46 & Bistro, 269 Musson-Bell House, 225 Nightlife, 245–276. See also Orpheus (krewe), 30 The Myrtles (St. Francisville), Music Our Lady of Guadalupe Cha- 289 bars, 265–273 pel-International Shrine of Mystical and mysterious best, 6–7 St. Jude, 177 tours, 207 French Quarter and Our Mother of Perpetual Mystick Krewe of Barkus, 22 Faubourg Marigny, Help Chapel, 223–224 266–269 Oz, 274 gay and lesbian, Napoleon House, 142 273–274 Napoleon House Bar & Café, Tales of the Cocktail, 44 Package deals, Jazz Fest, 37 269 current listings, 246 Palm Court Jazz Cafe, 250, Narcotics, 321 evening cruise, 276 258 Natchez (steamboat), 208 gay and lesbian, 273–274 Pals Lounge, 271–272 National World War II jazz and blues clubs, Parades, Mardi Gras, 21–22 Museum, 185 254–260 viewing, 28, 30 Neighborhoods, 66–73 performing arts, 274–276 Parking Neville Brothers, 254 NOLA.com, 39 during Jazz Fest, 36 New Birth Brass Band, 253 NOMA (New Orleans during Mardi Gras, 25 New Iberia, 313–315 Museum of Art), 185–186 Parks and gardens, 192–196 New Orleans Ballet Nor-Joe’s Importing Co., 142 Parlange Plantation, 288 Association, 275 Northwest Airlines, 49 Passports, 46, 321–322 New Orleans Botanical Nottoway Plantation (White Pat O’Brien’s, 217, 267 Gardens, 194 Castle), 286–287 Payne-Strachan House, 225 New Orleans Cooking Payton, Nicholas, 250 Experience, 208 Peaches Records, 244 New Orleans Court Building, Oak Alley Plantation, Pearl River Eco-Tours, 216 284–285 206–207 New Orleans Film Festival, 45 Oakley Plantation at Audu- Performing arts, 274–276 New Orleans Historical Phar- bon State Historic Site, 288 Perfumes, 4 macy Museum, 179 The occult, 244 Petit Paris Museum (St. New Orleans Historic Voodoo Ochsner Medical Center, 318 Martinville), 312 Museum, 179–180 Ochsner Physician Referral Petrol, 318 New Orleans Hornets, Service, 57 Pharmacies, 322 211–212 Octavia Books, 238 Photo Works, 236 New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Offbeat, 321 PIANO (Professional Inn- Festival (Jazz Fest), The Ogden Museum of keepers Association of New 33–37, 43 Southern Art, 186 Orleans), 82 New Orleans Jazz Vipers, 252 Old Absinthe House, 175 Pine Leaf Boys, 254 New Orleans Klezmer All The Old French Market, 219 Pitot House, 182, 190, 229 Stars, 253 Old Ursuline Convent, Planning your trip, 39–65 New Orleans Limousine 175–176 Cajun Country, 295, 298 Service, 50 The Old U.S. Mint, 176–177, calendar of events, 41–46 New Orleans Metropolitan 219 customs regulations, Convention and Visitors Olivier Plantation House 48–49 Bureau, 19, 26, 39 (St. Martinville), 312 entry requirements, 46–48 New Orleans Museum of Art Olympia Brass Band, 250 getting around, 51–54 (NOMA), 185–186, 194 Omni Royal Orleans hotel, health concerns, 57–58 New Orleans Opera 203 during Mardi Gras, 24–25 Association, 274 One Eyed Jacks, 263 money and costs, 54–56 New Orleans Saints, 212 Opelousas, 309–311 plantation homes, 281–282 safety concerns, 58–59 Ray’s Boom Boom Room, Rodrigue Studio New 335 special-interest trips, 63 263–264 Orleans, 236 specialized travel Ray’s Grocery (Opelousas), Rosedown Plantation (St. resources, 59–60 303 Francisville), 288–289 staying connected, 64–65 R Bar and Royal Street Inn, Rothschild’s Antiques, 233 sustainable tourism, 61–63 269 Royal Mail Service, 321 traveling to New Orleans, ReBirth Brass Band, 250, 252 Royal St. attractions, 215, 49–51 Regional Transit Authority 216 visitor information, 39 (RTA), 53 Royal Street, 170 when to go, 39–41 Restaurants, 116–166. See RTA Ride Line, 324 Plantations, 277–292 also Restaurants Index Ruffins, Kermit, 250, 252 accommodations at best, 117–119 Rumors, 243 between New Orleans Breaux Bridge, 300 and Baton Rouge, Central Business District, 285–287 149–154 Sabai Jewelry Gallery, 243 St. Francisville and for coffee, tea, and sweets, Safety concerns, 58–59 environs, 287–292 163–166 cemeteries, 197 between New Orleans and by cuisine, 124–128 hotel choices and, 87 Baton Rouge, 282–287 cuisine and menu terms, during Mardi Gras, 25 organized tours, 282 119, 122–124 The Saint, 272 planning your trip, with delivery service, 138 St. Alphonsus Church, 188, 281–282 environmentally-friendly, 203 St. Francisville and envi- 62 St. Augustine Church, rons, 287–292 Eunice, 302 72–73, 188–189 Plique-LaBranche House, 217 Faubourg Marigny, St. Charles Avenue Plum St. Sno-balls, 165 143–145 streetcar, 53 Poche’s (Breaux Bridge), 303 French Quarter, 128–143 St. Francisville and environs, Police, 322 Grand Coteau, 303–304 287–292 The Polo Lounge, 272 Lafayette and environs, St. Joe’s Bar, 272 Ponderosa Stomp, 35 308–309 St. John’s Bayou, 181–182 Pontalba, Baroness Micaela during Mardi Gras, 25 St. Joseph’s Day Parade, 42 Almonester de, 176, Metairie, 161–163 St. Landry Parish Tourist 219–220 Mid-City/Esplanade Ridge, Commission (Opelousas), The Pontalba Buildings, 220 145–149 310 Pontchartrain, Lake, 181–182 Opelousas, 311 St. Louis Cathedral, 174, 221 Pontchartrain Hotel, 203 St. Francisville, 292 St. Louis Cemetery No. 1, Post office, 322 Uptown/The Garden 197, 202, 207 Prairie Acadian Cultural Cen- District, 154–161 St. Louis Cemetery No. 2, 197 ter (Eunice), 301–302 Ville Platte, 315 St. Louis Cemetery No. 3, Pravda, 269 Reuther House, 228 182, 198, 228 The Presbytère, 180, 220 Rex (krewe), 23, 30 St. Martin de Tours Church Prescription medications, 58 Rhythm & blues, 18, 254 (St. Martinville), 312 Preservation Hall, 217, 250, Rice, Anne, 15, 188, 189, 197, St. Martinville, 311–313 258, 260 202–204, 223–224 St. Mary’s Assumption, 189 Public transport. See Gallier House Museum, St. Patrick’s Church, 189 Transportation 177 St. Patrick’s Day Parades, 42 Rillieux-Waldhorn House, St. Roch and the Campo 214 Santo, 189 Queen’s Parade Rip Van Winkle Gardens (New Sanchez, Paul, 253 (Lafayette), 33 Iberia), 313–314 San Francisco plantation, Rite Aid, 322 283–284 Ritz-Carlton Spa, 237 Satchmo Summerfest, 44 Rainfall, average, 40 Riverbend, 231–232 Saturn Bar, 272 Ramos Gin Fizz, 6 Riverboat gambling, 211 Savoy, Marc, 253 Rare Finds, 233 Riverboats, 278 Savoy Music Center (Eunice), Rawhide 2010, 273 Riverwalk Marketplace, 209, 298 The Rayne Frog Festival 232 Savoy Music Center (near (Lafayette), 45 Robinson House, 226 Eunice), 302 336 Sazerac, 5–6 Storyville, 67, 248 Train travel, 51 Scriptura, 242 Streetcars, 53–54 Transit information, 324 Senior travel, 60 Street names, 66–67 Transportation, 51–54 Shadows-on-the-Teche Plan- Street smarts, 58 environmentally-friendly, tation (New Iberia), 314 Studio Inferno, 5, 236, 241 62 Shadyside Pottery, 236 Sucré, 239 during Jazz Fest, 36–37 Shop of the Two Sisters, 242 Summer, 41 Transportation Security Shopping, 230–244 The Superdome, 190–191 Administration (TSA), Eunice, 303 Superette Slaughterhouse 47, 49, 50 Sights and attractions, (Eunice), 303 Trashy Diva, 240 167–212 Super Sunday, 42, 73 Travelers Aid Society, 49 Anne Rice—related Sustainable tourism, 61–63 Traveler’s checks, 56 attractions, 202–203 Swamp Festival, 45 Travelex Insurance Services, cemeteries, 196–198 Swamp tours, 206–207 320 historic buildings, 174–177 Swizzle Stick Bar, 273 Travel Guard International, historic churches, 188–189 Syringe-administered 320 for kids, 209–210 medications, 321 Traveling to New Orleans, Lafayette, 305–306 49–51 major attractions, 172–174 Travel insurance, 319–320 museums, 177–180 Tabasco Sauce Factory Travel Insured International, New Iberia, 313 (New Iberia), 314–315 320 organized tours, 204–209 Tales of the Cocktail, 44 TravelSafe, 319–320 parks and gardens, Taxes, 322 Treasure Chest Casino 192–196 Taxis, 52 (Kenner), 211 St. Martinville, 311–312 airport, 50 Treme Brass Band, 250–251 sporting events, 211–212 during Jazz Fest, 36 Trip-cancellation insurance, Uptown/The Garden Telegraph and telex services, 319–320 District, 181–192 323 Tulane University Medical voodoo, 198–201 Telephones, 63–64, 322–323 Center, 318 Simon of New Orleans/ area code, 317 Twelfth Night, 22 Antiques on Jackson, Temperatures, average, 40 242–243 Temple Simbi-sen Jak, 201 Slim’s Y Ki-Ki (Opelousas), Tennessee Williams House, UAL, 240 295, 310 221 The UCM Museum (Abita Smoking, 322 Tennessee Williams New Springs), 187–188, 191 Snake & Jake’s Christmas Orleans Literary Festival, Union Passenger Terminal, Club Lounge, 73, 272 42–43 51, 324 Snug Harbor, 250, 260 Terranova, 228 United Airlines, 49 Society of St. Anne, 26, 28 Tezcuco Plantation, 283 United Cabs, 36, 52 Soul Rebels Brass Band, 252 Theaters, 275–276 Uptown Costume & Dance Southern Candymakers, 239 Thierry House, 218 Company, 239 Southern Decadence, 44 Thomas, Irma, 254 Uptown/The Garden Southern Food and Beverage Thomas Mann Designs/ District, 71 Museum, 186–187 Gallery I/O, 244 accommodations, 110–115 Southern Repertory Theatre, Throws (beads, trinkets), 22 Anne Rice—related attrac- 275–276 TIES (The International Eco- tions, 203–204 Southwest Airlines, 49 tourism Society), 61 restaurants, 154–161 Souvenirs, 4, 241–243 Time zones, 323 sights and attractions, Mardi Gras, 22 Tipitina’s, 265 181–192 throws, 22 Tipping, 323 walking tour, 221–225 Spas, 236–237 T-Mobile Hotspot, 65 US Airways, 49 Special events and festivals. Toilets, 323–324 US-VISIT, 48 See also Mardi Gras Tomato, 240 calendar of, 41–46 Tours New Orleans Jazz & Heri- Cajun Country, 298 Vaughan’s Lounge, 260 tage Festival, 33–37 plantations, 282 Va va voom, 252 Special-interest trips, 63 Tours by Isabelle, 205–206, Vermilionville (Lafayette), Sporting events, 211–212 282, 298 306 Spring Fiesta, 43 Train Garden, 194 Vic’s Kangaroo Cafe, 273 Vieux Carré Cocktail, 6 Woldenberg Riverfront Park, Chimes B&B, 113 337 Vieux Carré Metropolitan 180 The Columns, 113 Community Church, 60 Words & Music: A Literary Comfort Suites, 105 Ville Platte, 315 Fest in New Orleans, 46 Cornstalk Hotel, 96 Vintage 429, 243 Worldwide Assistance The Cottage (St. Francisville), Violet’s, 241 Services, 319 290 Visa, traveler’s checks, 56 WTUL, 322 Cotton Exchange, 105 Visas, 46–47, 324 Wu, Kevin, 236 Country Inn and Suites by Visitor information, 39 WWNO, 322 Carlson, 105 Visitor Information Center WWOZ, 246, 322 Country Ridge Bed and (French Quarter), 39 Breakfast (Opelousas), 310 VisiTour pass, 53 Courtyard by Marriott, 105 Voice over Internet protocol Yambilee Festival Dauphine Orleans Hotel, 91 (VoIP), 64–65 (Opelousas), 310 Days Inn (Opelousas), 310 Volunteer travel, 63 Yoruba religion, 198 Days Inn and Suites (Eunice), Voluptuous Vixens, 241 Yvonne LaFleur-New Orleans, 302 Voodoo, 198–201, 244 241 The Depot at Madame Julia’s, tours, 207 110 Voodoo Authentica, 201, 244 Drury Inn & Suites, 109 Voodoo Museum, 179–180 Zaorski, Linnzi, 252–253 1896 O’Malley House, 102 Voodoo Music Experience, 45 Zoo, Audubon, 195–196 Embassy Suites, 105 Voodoo Spiritual Temple, 201 Zulu parade, 23, 30 The Frenchmen Hotel, Zydeco and Cajun music, 99–100 251–254, 294–295 The Garlands Historic Creole Wagner, Rob, 253 clubs, 261–262 Cottages, 91–92 Waldhorn Antiques, 214 Lafayette, 304–305 Grandmother’s Buttons (St. Walking, 53 Zydeco Hall of Fame Francisville), 290–291 Walking clubs, 23 (Lawtell), 295 The Grand Victorian Bed & Walking groups, 26 Zydeco Hall of Fame Breakfast, 110 Walking tours (Opelousas), 310 Hampton Inn and Suites, 105 guided, 204–207 Hampton Inn Garden self-guided, 213–229 District, 113–114 Esplanade Ridge, 226 ACCOMMODATIONS Harrah’s, 103 The Garden District, Aaah! T’Frere’s Bed & Break- Hilton New Orleans Riverside 221–225 fast (Lafayette), 307 Hotel, 103 Warehouse District, 71 Ashtons Bed & Breakfast, Hilton St. Charles, 106 Warwick Manor, 225 101–102 Holiday Inn (Opelousas), 310 Washington, 315–316 B&W Courtyards Bed & Holiday Inn Express, 105 Wayport, 65 Breakfast, 99 Holiday Inn Express (Eunice), Weather, 40–41 Barrow House Inn (St. 302 Websites, visitor informa- Francisville), 290 Holiday Inn Lafayette- tion, 39 Best Western (Eunice), 302 Central, 307 Weddings, 211 Best Western St. Christopher, Homewood Suites, 105 Western Union, 320, 323 108–109 Hotel Monteleone, 92 West Nile virus, 57 Bienville House, 94–95 Hôtel Provincial, 96 Whisnant Galleries, 233 Block-Keller House, 102 Hotel St. Marie, 96 Whitney National Bank, 55 Bois des Chênes Inn Hotel Villa Convento, 96–97 Widow Castanedo’s House, (Lafayette), 307 The House on Bayou Road, 227 Bourbon Orleans Hotel, 95 100 Wi-Fi access, 65 Bourgoyne Guest House, 95 Iberville Suites, 97 Williams, Tennessee, 217, 221 Butler Greenwood Plantation InterContinental New House, 221 B&B (St. Francisville), 291 Orleans, 103–104 New Orleans Literary Camellia Cove (Washington), International House, 106 Festival, 42–43 315–316 JW Marriott Hotel New Williams Research Center, Chateau LeMoyne-Holiday Orleans, 104 178 Inn French Quarter, 90–91 Lafayette Hilton & Towers, The Witching Hour, 188, 189, Chateau Sonesta Hotel New 307 202–204 Orleans, 91 Lafayette Hotel, 109 338 Lafitte Guest House, 93 Steamboat Cottages Cochon, 152 La Maison de Belle (Washington), 316 Commander’s Palace, (Lafayette), 307–308 Super 8 (Opelousas), 310 155–156, 204, 226 Lamothe House, 97 3 V Tourist Court (St. Court of Two Sisters, 132 La Quinta Inn and Suites, 105 Francisville), 291 Crawfish Town USA (Breaux Le Cirque, 107 Victorian House, 98 Bridge), 300–301 Le Pavillon Hotel, 109–110 Westin New Orleans at Canal Creole Creamery, 163 Le Richelieu Hotel, 97–98 Place, 94 Croissant D’Or, 163–164, 219 Loews New Orleans Hotel, W French Quarter, 90 Cuvée, 151 107 The Whitney-A Wyndham Dante’s Kitchen, 157–158 Loft 523, 104 Historic Hotel, 108 Deanie’s Seafood Bucktown The McKendrick-Breaux Windsor Court, 104–105 USA, 162 House, 112 W New Orleans, 105–106 Dean-o’s (Lafayette), 308 Madewood (Napoleonville), Dick & Jenny’s, 158 285–286 Dickie Brennan’s Steakhouse, Magnolia Mansion, 110, 112 RESTAURANTS 132–133 Maison Des Amis (Breaux Acme Oyster House, 139 D.I.’s Cajun Restaurant Bridge), 299–300 Angeli on Decatur, 140 (Eunice), 302 Maison Dupuy, 93 Angelo Brocato’s Ice Cream & Dooky Chase, 146 Maison Orleans, 87 Confectionary, 163 Edie’s Express (Lafayette), Maison Perrier Bed & Antoine’s, 128 308 Breakfast, 112 Arnaud’s, 128, 130 Elizabeth’s, 144 Marriott (Canal St.), 105 Bacco, 130 Emeril’s, 149–150 Melrose Mansion, 87–88 Back in Time (Opelousas), 311 Emeril’s Delmonico Restau- The Myrtles (St. Francisville), B&C Seafood Market & Cajun rant and Bar, 150 289 Restaurant (Vacherie), 287 Ernst Café, 154 New Orleans Guest House, Bayona, 130 Feelings Cafe D’Aunoy, 143 98–99 Bird Man Coffee & Books Felix’s Restaurant & Oyster Oak Alley Plantation (St. Francisville), 292 Bar, 140–141 (Vacherie), 284 Bistro Italia, 157 Franky & Johnny’s, 160–161 Old Castillo Bed & Breakfast Bluebird Cafe, 159–160 French Quarter Pizza, 138 (St. Martinville), 312–313 Bourbon House Seafood, 131 Galatoire’s, 133, 203 Omni Royal Orleans, 93–94, Brennan’s, 131 Galley Seafood Restaurant, 203 Brennan’s Restaurant, 162 Park View Guest House, 114 214–215 Gautreau’s, 156 The Pelham, 107 Brigtsen’s, 155 Gene’s, 72 Place d’Armes Hotel, 98 Broussard’s, 132 Green Goddess, 136 Prince Conti Hotel, 98 Bywater Barbeque & Deli, Herbsaint, 152 Prytania Park Hotel, 114 144 Irene’s Cuisine, 136–137 Quality Inn, 105 Café Adelaide, 151 Iris, 137 Queen Anne, 112–113 Café Beignet, 140 Jacques-Imo’s, 158 Ramada Plaza Hotel-The Inn Café Degas, 146, 228 Joey K’s, 161 on Bourbon, 88 Café Des Amis (Breaux Johnny’s Po’ Boys, 141 Renaissance Arts Hotel, Bridge), 299–300 Kitchen Shop, 304 107–108 Café du Monde, 163, 202, K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen, Residence Inn by Marriott, 221 133–134 105 Cafe Giovanni, 132 La Boucherie, 164 Ritz-Carlton, New Orleans, 88 Café Maspero, 140 La Boulangerie, 164 Royal Sonesta, 88, 90 Café Vermilionville La Côte Brasserie, 151–152 Royal Street Inn & R Bar, 100 (Lafayette), 308 LaCrêpe Nanou, 158 St. Charles Guest House, The Cake Café, 144 La Divinia Gelateria, 164 114–115 Camellia Grill, 160 La Madeleine, 164 St. Francisville Inn, 291 Casamento’s, 160 La Peniche Restaurant, St. James Hotel, 108 Catahoula’s (Grand Coteau), 144–145 St. Louis, 94 303–304 La Petite Grocery, 159 Sheraton, 105 Chez Jacqueline (Breaux Liborio’s Cuban Restaurant, Soniat House, 90 Bridge), 300 153 SpringHill Suites by Marriott, Clancy’s, 155 Lil’ Dizzy’s, 147–148 105 Clover Grill, 140 Lilette, 159 Liuzza’s, 146–147 Nola, 134–135 R&O’s, 162–163 339 Liuzza’s by the Track, 148 Palace Cafe (Opelousas), 311 Red Fish Grill, 139 Lola’s, 147 Palace Café, 153 Reginelli’s, 138 Louisiana Pizza Kitchen, 141 Parkway Bakery and Tavern, Rémoulade, 142–143 Lüke, 153 148 Restaurant August, 150–151 McHardy’s, 72, 138 Pascal’s Manale, 159 Rib Room, 135 Magnolia Cafe (St. Francis- Patois, 156–157 Royal Blend Coffee & Tea ville), 292 The Pelican Club, 135 House, 165 Mandina’s, 147 Petunia’s, 141–142 Rue de la Course, 165 Marigny Brasserie, 143 The Pig Stand (Ville Platte), Sekisui Samurai, 139 Martinique Bistro, 156 315 Slim Goodies Diner, 161 Martin Wine Cellar and P.J.’s Coffee & Tea Company, Stanley, 143 Delicatessen, 162 164 Steamboat Warehouse Res- Meauxbar Bistro, 137 Poche’s Market Restaurant & taurant (Washington), 316 MiLa, 152 Smokehouse (Breaux Stella!, 135–136 Mona Lisa, 138 Bridge), 300 Sucré, 166 Mona’s Café & Deli, 145 Port of Call, 138–139 Taqueria Corona, 161 Mother’s, 154 Praline Connection, 145 Tommy’s Cuisine, 154 Mr. B’s Bistro, 134 Prejean’s (Lafayette), Tujague’s, 136 Mulate’s the Original Cajun 308–309 Upperline, 157 Restaurant (Breaux Ralph’s on the Park, 145–146 Verdi Marte, 138 Bridge), 301 Randol’s Restaurant and Willie Mae’s Scotch House, Muriel’s, 134 Cajun Dance Hall 149 Napoleon House, 141 (Lafayette), 309 Ye Olde College Inn, 149 NOTES NOTES NOTES