Colonial Renascence of Adire
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Batik Workshop
Batik Workshop Batik is one of the "resist" processes for making designs on fabric, like Tie Dye, Shibori, Serti technique, etc., using wax on fabric to prevent dye from penetrating the cloth. Wax is applied to fabric, followed by dye, perhaps in many successive layers in complex Batiks. Batik is especially unique because the wax will crackle during handling, either intentionally or not. On subsequent dye baths, the crackles in the wax fill in with darker colors. Batik can be done with many types of dye or fabric paints & waxes on cottons, silks and other natural fabrics, particularly the finer weaves for detail work. "Faux" batik employs types of water soluble resists that are easier to remove than wax (and safer to work with for children), but never quite achieve that beautiful crackling. In this example we will be using Dharma Pigment Dyes and Soy Wax, on cotton, but can be adapted to other fabrics or dyes. The basic principles remain the same. Introduction to Batik Batik masters employ a process of repeated waxing and tub dyeing to achieve the final result. This method requires mastery of color mixing and over dyeing, as each layer of dye is applied over the last, producing a mixed color. After many different applications, the background usually comes out dark brown, black, or gray. The waxed areas remain the lighter shades produced by each individual application and combinations thereof. The Tub Dye technique is described below in more detail. An easier method of batik, especially for beginners, is the Paint-on method. This method has fewer steps and allows for great variations of color and shade without having to master the complicated blending of successive layers of color. -
Alum Mineral and the Importance for Textile Dyeing
Current Trends in Fashion Technology & Textile Engineering ISSN: 2577-2929 Mini-Review Curr Trends Fashion Technol Textile Eng Volume 3- Issue 4 - April 2018 Copyright © All rights are reserved by Ezatollah Mozaffari DOI: 10.19080/CTFTTE.2018.03.555619 Alum Mineral and the Importance for Textile Dyeing Ezatollah Mozaffari* and Bijan Maleki Imam khomeini international university, Qazvin, Iran Submission: Published: April 25, 2018 *Corresponding April author: 10, 2018; Email: Ezatollah Mozaffari, Imam khomeini International University, Qazvin, Iran, Tel: +9828-33901133; Abstract The importance of alum as a natural mordant in textile dyeing is explained. The history of alum mineral processing was reviewed to emphasise on the heritage knowledge inherited by current trends in fashion technology and textile engineering. The review will also demonstrate the conservative environmental preservation nature of alum mineral as mordant. The need for modern evaluation of natural dyes and mordants will be highlighted. Keywords: Alum; Mordant; Industrial heritage Introduction the calcined mass the calcined shale was barrowed to a series Alum was known as one of the most imperative components of stone leaching pits nearby with typical dimensions of 9 x of textile industry before the introduction of chemical dyes in 4.5 x 1.5m. Fresh liquid was added to the leaching tanks and the process repeated for several weeks. The waste solids were alum quarrying and trade in several geographical areas [1]. In the 1850s. Its significance could be explored when studying the literature, interesting notes on alum as a mordant for textile liquor from leaching rose to 1.12, indicating 12 tons of dissolved dyeing of yarn, cloth and leather in North America, China, Libya, eventually dug out and discarded. -
1 SUMMARY the Shibori, Batik and Ikat Techniques Are Known As Resist
SIMBOL ŞI TEHNICĂ ARHAICĂ-RAPEL ÎN CREAłIA CONTEMPORANĂ BITAY ECATERINA 1 SUMMARY The Shibori, Batik and Ikat techniques are known as resist dyeing techniques. „Shibori” is actually an old name of the Tie-dye technique, a widespread expression in the hippie communities of the 60’s – 70’s period, when this technique had a great success also among the fashion designers, making a spectacular comeback, after a long period of sporadic isolation in certain areas of the world, especially in Japan, Africa and South America. The first textiles found by archaeologists are so old that we may say that world history could be read in the nations’ textiles. The rise of the civilizations and the fall of the empires are woven and printed on the scarves and the shrouds of the great conquests main characters. Archaeological diggings revealed signs of these traditions of 5000 years old. Religion, traditions, myths, superstitions and rituals are closely related to the textiles belonging to many nations of Eastern Asia, Asia Minor, and of the Pacific Islands, their aesthetic value being, more than once, secondary. CHAPTER 1 THE SHIBORI TECHNIQUE The origin of the word “Shibori” is the verb “shiboru” which means to wring, to twist, to press. Even if “shibori” refers to a particular group of resist dyeings, the word’s origin suggests the cloth manipulation process and it can comprise modern methods of dyeing which involve the same type of cloth treatment, possibly without pigments or treatment with pigments applied by using totally different methods than the ancient ones. Shibori can be divided in many ways: according to the areas where it is used, such as Japan, China, India, Africa, Indonesia, South America or according to the details usesd in the technique. -
Batik Wax Instructions
Instructions Batik Wax Batik: A History Although its exact origin is uncertain, the earliest known batiks were discovered in Egyptian tombs dating back to the 4th century BCE. Wax-resist techniques were probably developed independently by disparate cultures throughout the ancient world. By the seventh century AD, patterning fabric using resists such as wax was a widespread practice throughout Asia and Africa and was perhaps most fully developed as an artform in Indonesia, where batik predates written records. By the thirteenth century, it became a highly respected art form and pastime for the women of Java and Bali, as recognizable motifs, patterns and colors became signifiers of one’s family and geographical area. Distinct styles and traditions proliferated and spread with the exchange of cultures through trade and exploration (see the “inland” and “coastal” batiks of Java, for instance — the two traditions couldn’t be more different). In the seventeenth century, as the world grew smaller, batik was introduced in Holland and other parts of Europe, where it became increasingly fashionable. Europeans and Americans traveling and living in the East encountered the ancient process and brought it back to their homelands — and spread it to colonies far away — where new traditions of batik branched out. Today, art schools across the United States and Europe offer batik courses as an essential part of their textile curricula. For more tips and techniques see www.jacquardproducts.com JACQUARD PRODUCTS Manufactured by Rupert, Gibbon & Spider, Inc. Healdsburg, CA 95448 | www.jacquardproducts.com | 800.442.0455 Batik Instructions Preparing and designing your fabric All new fabrics must be washed with hot soapy water, rinsed and dried to remove factory-applied sizings which may inhibit color penetration. -
The Maiwa Guide to NATURAL DYES W H at T H Ey a R E a N D H Ow to U S E T H E M
the maiwa guide to NATURAL DYES WHAT THEY ARE AND HOW TO USE THEM WA L NUT NATURA L I ND IG O MADDER TARA SYM PL O C OS SUMA C SE Q UO I A MAR IG O L D SA FFL OWER B U CK THORN LIVI N G B L UE MYRO B A L AN K AMA L A L A C I ND IG O HENNA H I MA L AYAN RHU B AR B G A LL NUT WE L D P OME G RANATE L O G WOOD EASTERN B RA ZIL WOOD C UT C H C HAMOM IL E ( SA PP ANWOOD ) A LK ANET ON I ON S KI NS OSA G E C HESTNUT C O C H I NEA L Q UE B RA C HO EU P ATOR I UM $1.00 603216 NATURAL DYES WHAT THEY ARE AND HOW TO USE THEM Artisans have added colour to cloth for thousands of years. It is only recently (the first artificial dye was invented in 1857) that the textile industry has turned to synthetic dyes. Today, many craftspeople are rediscovering the joy of achieving colour through the use of renewable, non-toxic, natural sources. Natural dyes are inviting and satisfying to use. Most are familiar substances that will spark creative ideas and widen your view of the world. Try experimenting. Colour can be coaxed from many different sources. Once the cloth or fibre is prepared for dyeing it will soak up the colour, yielding a range of results from deep jew- el-like tones to dusky heathers and pastels. -
Textile Printing
TECHNICAL BULLETIN 6399 Weston Parkway, Cary, North Carolina, 27513 • Telephone (919) 678-2220 ISP 1004 TEXTILE PRINTING This report is sponsored by the Importer Support Program and written to address the technical needs of product sourcers. © 2003 Cotton Incorporated. All rights reserved; America’s Cotton Producers and Importers. INTRODUCTION The desire of adding color and design to textile materials is almost as old as mankind. Early civilizations used color and design to distinguish themselves and to set themselves apart from others. Textile printing is the most important and versatile of the techniques used to add design, color, and specialty to textile fabrics. It can be thought of as the coloring technique that combines art, engineering, and dyeing technology to produce textile product images that had previously only existed in the imagination of the textile designer. Textile printing can realistically be considered localized dyeing. In ancient times, man sought these designs and images mainly for clothing or apparel, but in today’s marketplace, textile printing is important for upholstery, domestics (sheets, towels, draperies), floor coverings, and numerous other uses. The exact origin of textile printing is difficult to determine. However, a number of early civilizations developed various techniques for imparting color and design to textile garments. Batik is a modern art form for developing unique dyed patterns on textile fabrics very similar to textile printing. Batik is characterized by unique patterns and color combinations as well as the appearance of fracture lines due to the cracking of the wax during the dyeing process. Batik is derived from the Japanese term, “Ambatik,” which means “dabbing,” “writing,” or “drawing.” In Egypt, records from 23-79 AD describe a hot wax technique similar to batik. -
Mud Cloth from Mali: Its Making and Use
ISSN 0378-5254 Tydskrif vir Gesinsekologie en Verbruikerswetenskappe, Vol 31, 2003 Mud cloth from Mali: its making and use Elsje S Toerien OPSOMMING INTRODUCTION Bogolanfini van Mali, beter bekend as mud cloth, The stark, geometric, black and white designs tradi- het in die laaste aantal jare bekendheid verwerf en tionally found on the mud cloths from Mali, can today daarby ook baie gewild geraak. be found on everything from clothing and furniture to book covers and wrapping paper. Along with kente Vir baie jare was dit nie duidelik hoe hierdie kleed- (from Ghana), mud cloth has become one of the best- stof gemaak is nie. Dit was algemeen aanvaar dat known African cloth traditions worldwide (Clarke, die ontwerpe deur 'n bleikingsproses verkry is. Van- 2001). Luke-Boone (2001:8) describes it as 'probably dag is dit bekend dat die ligte ontwerpe verkry word the most influential ethnic fabric of the 1990's'. The deur hulle met donker modder te omlyn en daarna designs have indeed become an important part of the die agtergrond in te vul. Afgesien van bogolanfini se modern ethnic look found in African-inspired fashions dekoratiewe waarde, het die verskillende motiewe today. ook simboliese waarde, en word verskillende kom- binasies gebruik om 'n geskiedkundige gebeurtenis te herdenk of 'n plaaslike held te vereer. In hierdie artikel word daar gekyk na die tegnieke wat gebruik word om bogolanfini te maak, na die betekenis van sommige motiewe, en die verskillen- de maniere waarop die tegnieke of motiewe gebruik word. Die redes vir die verhoogde belangstelling in, en vervaardiging van bogolanfini word ook aange- spreek. -
An Empirical Assessment of the Relationship Of
An International Multidisciplinary Journal, Ethiopia Vol. 7 (2), Serial No. 29, April, 2013:350-370 ISSN 1994-9057 (Print) ISSN 2070--0083 (Online) DOI: http://dx.doi.org/10.4314/afrrev.7i2.22 Adire in South-western Nigeria: Geography of the Centres Areo, Margaret Olugbemisola- Department of Fine and Applied Arts, Ladoke Akintola University of Technology, P. M. B 4000, Ogbomoso, Nigeria E-mail; [email protected] & Kalilu, Razaq Olatunde Rom - Department of Fine and Applied Arts, Ladoke Akintola University of Technology, P. M. B 4000, Ogbomoso, Nigeria E-mail; [email protected] Abstract Adire, the patterned dyed cloth is extant and is practiced in almost all Yoruba towns in Southwestern Nigeria. The art tradition is however preponderant in a few Yoruba towns to the extent that the names of these towns are traditionally inseparable with the Adire art tradition. With Western education, introduction of foreign religions, influence from other cultures, technique and technology, there is a shift in the producers of Adire, the training pattern, and even an evolution in the production centre. While Western education resulted in a shift from the hitherto traditional Copyright© IAARR 2013: www.afrrevjo.net 350 Indexed African Journals Online: www.ajol.info Vol. 7 (2) Serial No. 29, April, 2013 Pp.350-370 apprenticeship method to the study of the art in schools, unemployment gave birth to the introduction of training drives by government and non governmental parastatals. This study, a field research, is an appraisal of the factors that contributed to the vibrancy of the traditionally renowned centres, and how the newly evolved centres have in contemporary times contributed to the sustainability of the Adire art tradition. -
Rural Dress in Southwestern Missouri Between 1860 and 1880 by Susan
Rural dress in southwestern Missouri between 1860 and 1880 by Susan E. McFarland Hooper A Thesis Submitted to the Graduate Faculty in Partial Fulfillment of The Requirements for the Degree of MASTER OF SCIENCE Department: Textiles and Clothing Major: Textiles and Clothing Signatures have been redacted for privacy Iowa State University Ames, Iowa 1976 ii TABLE OF CONTENTS Page INTRODUCTION 1 SOURCES OF COSTUME, INFORMATION 4 SOUTHWESTERN MISSOURI, 1860 THROUGH 1880 8 Location and Industry 8 The Civil War 13 Evolution of the Towns and Cities 14 Rural Life 16 DEVELOPMENT OF TEXTILES AND APPAREL INDUSTRIES BY 1880 19 Textiles Industries 19 Apparel Production 23 Distribution of Goods 28 TEXTILES AND CLOTHING AVAILABLE IN SOUTHWESTERN MISSOURI 31 Goods Available from 1860 to 1866 31 Goods Available after 1866 32 CLOTHING WORN IN RURAL SOUTHWESTERN MISSOURI 37 Clothing Worn between 1860 and 1866 37 Clothing Worn between 1866 and 1880 56 SUMMARY 64 REFERENCES 66 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 70 GLOSSARY 72 iii LIST OF TABLES Page Table 1. Selected services and businesses in operation in Neosho, Missouri, 1860 and 1880 15 iv LIST OF MAPS Page Map 1. State of Missouri 9 Map 2. Newton and Jasper Counties, 1880 10 v LIST OF PHOTOGRAPHS Page Photograph 1. Southwestern Missouri family group, c. 1870 40 Photograph 2. Detail, southwestern Missouri family group, c. 1870 41 Photograph 3. George and Jim Carver, taken in Neosho, Missouri, c. 1875 46 Photograph 4. George W. Carver, taken in Neosho, Missouri, c. 1875 47 Photograph 5. Front pieces of manls vest from steamship Bertrand, 1865 48 Photograph 6. -
From Crime to Coercion: Policing Dissent in Abeokuta, Nigeria, 1900–1940
The Journal of Imperial and Commonwealth History ISSN: 0308-6534 (Print) 1743-9329 (Online) Journal homepage: https://www.tandfonline.com/loi/fich20 From Crime to Coercion: Policing Dissent in Abeokuta, Nigeria, 1900–1940 Samuel Fury Childs Daly To cite this article: Samuel Fury Childs Daly (2019) From Crime to Coercion: Policing Dissent in Abeokuta, Nigeria, 1900–1940, The Journal of Imperial and Commonwealth History, 47:3, 474-489, DOI: 10.1080/03086534.2019.1576833 To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/03086534.2019.1576833 Published online: 15 Feb 2019. Submit your article to this journal Article views: 268 View related articles View Crossmark data Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at https://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=fich20 THE JOURNAL OF IMPERIAL AND COMMONWEALTH HISTORY 2019, VOL. 47, NO. 3, 474–489 https://doi.org/10.1080/03086534.2019.1576833 From Crime to Coercion: Policing Dissent in Abeokuta, Nigeria, 1900–1940 Samuel Fury Childs Daly Duke University, Durham, North Carolina, USA ABSTRACT KEYWORDS Indirect rule figured prominently in Nigeria’s colonial Nigeria; Abeokuta; crime; administration, but historians understand more about the police; indirect rule abstract tenets of this administrative strategy than they do about its everyday implementation. This article investigates the early history of the Native Authority Police Force in the town of Abeokuta in order to trace a larger move towards coercive forms of administration in the early twentieth century. In this period the police in Abeokuta developed from a primarily civil force tasked with managing crime in the rapidly growing town, into a political implement of the colonial government. -
The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity
The “African Print” Hoax: Machine Produced Textiles Jeopardize African Print Authenticity by Tunde M. Akinwumi Department of Home Science University of Agriculture, Abeokuta, Nigeria Abstract The paper investigated the nature of machine-produced fabric commercially termed African prints by focusing on a select sample of these prints. It established that the general design characteristics of this print are an amalgam of mainly Javanese, Indian, Chinese, Arab and European artistic tradition. In view of this, it proposed that the prints should reflect certain aspects of Africanness (Africanity) in their design characteristics. It also explores the desirability and choice of certain design characteristics discovered in a wide range of African textile traditions from Africa south of the Sahara and their application with possible design concepts which could be generated from Macquet’s (1992) analysis of Africanity. This thus provides a model and suggestion for new African prints which might be found acceptable for use in Africa and use as a veritable export product from Africa in the future. In the commercial parlance, African print is a general term employed by the European textile firms in Africa to identify fabrics which are machine-printed using wax resins and dyes in order to achieve batik effect on both sides of the cloth, and a term for those imitating or achieving a resemblance of the wax type effects. They bear names such as abada, Ankara, Real English Wax, Veritable Java Print, Guaranteed Dutch Java Hollandis, Uniwax, ukpo and chitenge. Using the term ‘African Print’ for all the brand names mentioned above is only acceptable to its producers and marketers, but to a critical mind, the term is a misnomer and therefore suspicious because its origin and most of its design characteristics are not African. -
A Checklist for Adding Soft Signage to Your Digital Print Business Ebook
A Checklist for Adding Soft Signage to your Digital Print Business Presented by: What you need to know Customers Requirements & Consumables Printing Equipment Finishing Equipment Integration 2 Questions that must be answered? Do you currently manufacture textile goods? If so, what technology/equipment are you using and is it cost effective? Do you currently outsource textiles? If so, how much, what technology/equipment is used, does it make sense to bring in house? 3 Questions that must be answered? Do you already have the customer base or is it a “if I build it they will come” situation? Is your customer buying textiles from someone else? Would they buy from you? Do you fully understand the required equipment and processes involved in manufacturing textiles yourself? Software, printer, direct/transfer, fixation, cutting/finishing/sewing, consumables, fabric, knowledge? 4 Requirements & consumables Control the variables 5 Requirements: Control the variables RIP/Color management software Controlled print room • Water quality • Humidity, temperature, cleanliness • Waste water/ink Equipment settings/logs Media handling equipment & safety 6 Know your environment is controlled! USB data logger • Temperature • Humidity • Dew point • LCD 7 Media handling Transfer paper 105 - 57gsm • 400 lbs roll weight Uniquely Designed • 10.5’ roll width Specifically for the EFI Soft Signage Printer Line • 14” roll diameter Foster 61577 • 990 lbs roll weight • 16.5’ roll width • 19.6” roll diameter 8 Consumables OEM water-based sublimation inks high transfer