Pete’s Turunҫ Guide 2020

Dısclaimer Firstly, Please be aware :

This guide is intended to give a flavour of only our times holidaying in and around and now living in Turunҫ. (pronounced Turunch) It is heavily biased on our own experiences and preferences. This may not be everyone’s opinion!

Check out : www.myturunc.com for more information.

Turkish people & Culture

Contrary to some people’s opinion (usually those who have never visited before), the Turkish people are very proud people. They are very nationalistic and love their flag. You will see the flag flying all over Turkey and many statues, and pictures of their ‘Father’ - Ataturk. They are extremely family oriented and are very fond of children and in return the children show much respect for their elders. Conscript is still operated in Turkey, a practise that teaches discipline and respect at the right time in life for most Turkish people. The Muslim religion has to be admired, it is mostly about caring for others and they do not condone the extremists view. Ramadan is practised by choice, even when it’s 50ºC! This is so that they experience what it is like to be without. Since we have moved here, we are discovering how kind and helpful the local Turkish folks are...... especially so during our enforced Covid19 isolation.

Background.

September 2019 was our 21st visit to Turunҫ since 2003, just prior to moving here to our little corner of paradise permanently. We used to holiday in Turunç nearly every year and sometimes twice in the same year.

My wife, Lynne and I are well into our 60’s, and this guide may not be for the younger generation. However, our 39 year old son loves it here he has also made many visits and was his first choice for his Honeymoon in 2019. Many people, young and old return many times to this little paradise. We always seemed to meet up with people that we have met there in the past and have great conversations and banter with them (I Think the alcohol helps a little !) We have travelled to many other parts of the world as well, but we always returned to Turunҫ nearly every year.

Money.

The Turkish Lira is always a very good exchange rate to the pound....currently around 8/1. If you haven’t travelled to Turkey before.....İ

recommend that get your Liras when you get here. It’s a much better rate than the UK. £50 - £100 worth of Turkish liras is more than enough to get you here and overnight. Bring UK Pounds, and look for exchange in the village.

All the travel agents and many shops will exchange pounds for you... just compare the rates for the best one. There are 4 or 5 ATM’s near the Taxi rank if you want to use a bank / credit card, but the exchange rate can’t be guaranteed to be better than the UK.... although it was every time I used it! A beer is around 18-25 Lira, about £2.25 - £3.10.

Travel.

A Visa is no longer required to enable you to enter the country. You will be allowed a maximum of 6 months here, and your passport must have at least 6 months ‘life’ left on it.

Night flights tend to be cheaper than day flights, but the times are poor. Sleeping all day to ‘catch up’ will lose a precious day ! Day flights are dearer, but you get the full holiday, and the great views of the country. We find that the best times are late May / early June before it gets too hot (up to 50º in August) and then again late September / early October when it cools down a little.However, any time in Turunҫ is good!

Transfers.

If you are on a package deal, or have arranged the coach transfer, be prepared for a longish journey. The coach has to wait until everyone is off the plane, they always have a rest stop about halfway where you can buy drinks & snacks and have a Smoko (The driver is on commission). Then on to where they start dropping people off. Then on to Iҫmelar for more drop offs and transfer. Turunҫ holiday makers are last to be taken 30 mins drive from Marmaris – or transferred to a Dolmuş (Minibus) or taxi. You can be stood waiting there a while, and on the return. If you have been lucky enough to be on a day flight, the views up and down the mountain roads are stunning. From Dalaman, it’s about 3 to 3½ hours, From about 4- 4½ hours because of the dropping off and rest stop. (Even better views from Bodrum)

If you arrange private transfers, the journey is much quicker, much more comfortable and is about £90 - £110 whether it’s 2 or four people return from Dalaman (1-½– 2 hours), around £120ish return from Bodrum (2-2½ hours)

Private transfers can be arranged by any of the travel agents. They will need your passport details to comply with Turkish law.

Travel Agents :

June & Murat, JM Travel. Amanda & Ali, Destination Turunç. Ayten & Halit, Green İdyama

http://www.jmturkey.com/ www.destinationturunc.com [email protected]

Accommodation.

There is a good selection of excellent accommodation in Turunҫ. We have stayed in 3 different ones our favourite was Rose Apart. There are 23 generously sized and comfortable apartments, with bedroom, lounge, bathroom, hall and balcony. We prefer the view from the ones over the pool, but the other rooms are just as good. They all have a Kettle (Essential!), Toaster, Fridge, Stove, Aircon, TV, Safe and Cooking / eating / drinking utensils. The hosts are Husseyin and Aynor (pronounced Eye nah) and they go out of their way to help in any way they can. They have a daughter (Rose) and a son (Ali) and are a lovely family. After all these years, they feel like our family to us. Husseyin & Aynor will cook English or Turkish Breakfasts. Snacks are also available during the day if you wish. The whole place is very clean. The apartments are cleaned daily and towels and bedding changed every 2 days. The cleaning Ladies are very friendly and very thorough. Aynor has a laundry service too. There is a good sized, regularly cleaned and maintained pool with loungers on the periphery. More importantly there is a bar area, where guests tend to gather of an evening for an aperitif, prior to dining out.

The lively and often humorous conversation at the bar is very pleasant. You will meet people from all over the UK and from all different walks of life. Everyone is friendly and much hilarious banter is usually enjoyed. The Rose Apart is just 50m to the beach, on the flat and is near to the centre of the village. Nevertheless it is quiet there.

Gozdem Apart Gozdem2 is opposite the Rose Apart. They are equally as good and have the same equipment as the Rose as far as accommodation goes. The distance to the beach and centre is the same as the Rose. The hosts are Husseyin’s cousins, so they are also very welcoming. Jet2 currently do packages to the Gozdem at competitive prices. Again, very clean, very pleasant and very helpful hosts.

Recommended by friends, but not stayed there ourselves, so we cannot give an opinion :

Antik Apartments and Villa’s. At the end of the main street, up the hill turn right and a couple of hundred yards at the Amos crossroads. Everyone is impressed with the size, the cleanliness and the friendliness. Our son loved these apartments where he stayed during his honeymoon. Müjde and her mum, Bircan couldn’t do enough for them.... including a welcome bottle of Champers.

Burak Apart Otel. Just off the main street, close to the village centre. We are told that it is also very clean and welcoming hosts.

There's also a couple of hotels situated on the mountain road. They have spectacular views over Turunç bay and village and are said to be very good, however, the journey up and down the road every day isn't our cup of Çay.

Check out www.myturunc.com for more accommodation.

Restaurants. Turunҫ has an abundance of good restaurants. The restaurants along the beach front are the most expensive, (surprise, surprise) then the ones on the central main street are slightly cheaper and the ones at the back of the village tend to have the cheapest prices.

On the front : At the current exchange rate, a meal for two people of a large Fillet steak each, a couple of beers and a bottle of good wine and all the trimmings will set you back a whole £25 - £30 ! Expect to pay about £12 - £15 for 2 for a good lunch of say Sausage Egg & chips, or a fresh salad with beers (it’s the law). You will pay about £5 less at the back.

All the food in Turunҫ has a lot more taste than in the UK. The egg yolks are proper deep yellow colour and very, very tasty. The meats have great flavour and the fresh fruit and vegetables are extremely good too.

Where to eat ? That is where the problems start. All of them is the answer !

Some restaurateurs will ask you to try their fare as you wander along. Just say ‘No Thank you’ and they will probably say ‘have a good evening’ and let you go on. If you say ‘we’ll try you another night’, they will assume you to be as honest as they are and expect you to do just that. The Turkish people are very trusting. If you like a place and ask to book a table, it will be reserved for you, so please turn up.

Most Restaurants will serve a fare of Traditional Turkish Dishes, English and German, most have vegetarian and some gluten free. Rest assured, you will find something that will be suit your taste. Each Restaurant will have a different bread and Garlic butter that’s brought automatically at the start of your meal. I could eat loads of that and leave no room for the main course !

I will list our favourite restaurants in some sort of order, but bear in mind..... this is our experience, your thoughts may be different. .... Try them for yourselves.

Pashas Restaurant. On the main back street. Fantastic Honeyed Fillet Steak... brings your taste buds alive ! Fish Plank, Awesome!. Lots of other great meals too. Pizza, Indian cuisine, Sunday Roasts, Lobster - Mehmet is the Man ! Ask him about his Michael Jackson impression 

His Chef is Mahsun and he really understands the perfection in cooking good food and the presentation is something else!

Minem On the sea front. Vedat will ensure that you have a great evening here. You can sit and take in the wonderful view of Turunҫ bay. This is a very small restaurant, but great food, whichever meal you choose and very pleasant and jovial hosts.

Yalı The Yalı restaurant can be found on the beach promenade, before the huge Turunç Premium hotel. The food is really good, especially the fish.

The Yalı is also taking over an old favourite of ours, the old Surmen Restaurant, renaming it Yalı beach restaurant This restaurant was our favourite day time haunt. It is directly opposite the street that the Rose and Gozdem2 are on, so it is just a short walk through the restaurant to the beach.

We will probably be found in the summer slobbing out on the beach in front of the Yalı Beach until lunch.

Then it’s time to make that huge effort to walk a whole ten yards up the beach to the restaurant to partake in a spot of ‘Neck Oil’ (Beer time !) and have a light lunch.

Sadly, the Surman has now changed hands and the Yalı is taking over, renaming it:

Yalı beach restaurant.

The original Yalı will remain and still serve a top quality menu. Whilst on the beach, they will bring down drinks / snacks. The view out to sea and the Turunҫ frontage are quite romantic of an evening (Control yourself !)

Antik.

It’s a 5 minute walk up the back road past the Garage, at the Amos roundabout, but well worth it ! The Liver & Onions are really good here, as is all the food. Saturdays may involve a ‘Turkish night’..... please attend ! You have to book it, but it is a wonderful night of Mezes, barbequed meats and all the trimmings including Baclava and you will be treated to Turkish dancers strutting their stuff. Take your camera !

Müsde (Muzzdeh) is your host. She is married to Mehmet at Pasha’s. Her mother and father own the restaurant and her dad will pick you up from your apartment if you are infirm.

Sahin. On the main street, near the taxi rank. Ali (Ferdi) and Emre are the guys who look after you here, and they are always smiling, not pushy and they serve great food in good portions. Try the English Breakfast here if you are going out for the day.... it will set you up.... big time! The evening meals are very good too and very comfortable seating. Give the sea Bass a try. Daytime, if you are an Formula 1 nut like me, or football..... see Ali.

Cinar On the street opposite the Taxi rank. Not many people seem to dine here. Most people are walking by on the main street a few yards away. However, they are missing out on a terrific little restaurant. People that know good and not expensive food come here. Our favourite is the Lamb chops. .... Nom, Nom ! The Turkish food here is cooked to perfection. It’s very tasty and won’t break the bank. Pick anything from the menu and taste real Turkish fare.

Other Restaurants

Please don’t take our word for it..... Many other restaurants have great food, good menus and a good atmosphere – Just go try them...... it’s part of the fun finding out.

Here’s a few :-

Korfez. Good for fish.... great sea front location, you can eat on the boardwalk over the sea.

Oban 09 Ottoman menu..... On the sea front ....try the Lamb cooked in your own little pot. There’s a great ceremony when they break the top off.

Es Overlooking the harbour.... terrific view..... go just before sunset.

Şerife’s Kitchen On the back road near Pasha’s .... known as the ‘Pancake Lady’ Savoury and sweet pancakes cooked in an open oven. You could call here for a Pancake lunch after the Monday Market ?

Asparan. You will need a car or a Taxi ride to get here, but is it worth it. It’s on the old road to Marmaris. Turn Left out of Iҫmelar instead of right. Asparan is on the right a few miles along. The Turkish breakfast is awesome and you could even have English bacon & eggs cooked together in a saucepan. What makes the place special is the setting. It’s popular for weddings. The tables are in a ‘wheel spoke’ arrangements. A brook is nearby that’s full of Mallards and other ducks with their chicks. (Awwww !) Then there’s the peacocks and other birds and animals 100 yards away. You can just wander around. Take your camera, you might see the camel. There is a new Large pool with slides that will cool you off after your meal. I suggest asking the travel agents for their trips here.

Turunç Village.

Chemists. There are 2 Chemists on the main street near the centre. They will help with minor complaints and usually recommend the right drugs to put you right. They also sell sun creams etc just like ours in the UK.

Groceries. There are several ‘Supermarkets’ (They are just shops really) where you can buy Bread, milk, groceries and fresh vegetables. There’s a fair selection of English goods and you can even get pasteurised milk if you look hard enough (They’ll be in the fridges) Cigarettes, beer and wine can also be bought there.

Bread On main the back road, you will find a Bakery near the bridge. The bread in Turunҫ is really good, but it won’t be crispy the next day, but will last 3 or 4 days.... still tastes great, though !. There’s no nasty preservative or additives in it. The smell is as always inviting. They have cakes as well. Get there early for a good choice... it goes quick! The supermarkets sell bread as well.

Beach goods. There is a couple of ‘Beach’ shops where you can get snorkel, flippers, beach shoes, balls, sun creams etc.

Clothes. There are quite a few clothes and shoe shops as you walk towards the harbour. Many bargains can be had ...... Haggle ! Make sure you try clothes and shoes on, they tend to be on the small side ( or perhaps it’s eating the wonderful food that’s the problem ) The real leather belts are very good quality. Mine have lasted years.

Souvenirs. Several shops sell trinkets and memento’s. We have found that there is one just over the bridge after the Chinese restaurant on the right. The Turkish delight shop is the best in Turunҫ and next door, the hats, Paşmina’s and mugs are the best ones at reasonable prices. They are nice guys...... Try stuff on... taste the Turkish delight, or local nut brittle, or local honey (Nom Nom) you won’t be pressured into buying at those shops.

Bars. There’s about 12 out & out ‘Bars’ in Turunҫ. Most are on the main street. From the Rose, walk towards the main street, there’s the Maydan on the left. Turn left and you will find 2 on your left. (Vanilla Bar and a new one that used to be the M48) Turn right and there is 5 or so more as you wander along..... Fidan, Bob Bar, Corner bar (soon to be the new M48) Pallete bar, Elvis Pub. All will serve soft drinks and hot drinks as well as a plethora of alcoholic beverages. They have to close their doors late at night for the noise laws, but they remain open much longer. Some have Live music, others have Karaoke or music videos, or even Pub Quizzes. Be careful you don’t run up a big bill ! If bars aren’t your cup of tea, you won’t have any problems, you won’t hear them from your apartment. The restaurants will also serve drinks the same.

Market. Monday is Turunҫ market day, so it gets busy with visitors from Iҫmelar and Marmaris. The market is a great way to see some of the Turkish goods and people and drink in the atmosphere. The colours and smells of the fresh Fruit, Vegetables and spices are stunning. The Cherries and strawberries, nuts and spices are far better than we get here in the UK.

There is a lot of clothes, shoes and trinket stalls as well. The banter from the stallholders is comical. If you want to buy something...... haggle ! Don’t pay the first price. Be wary of the women who sit in the aisles. They go to shake young girls and ladies hands and before you know it, you have a bracelet on. As always on any Market anywhere in the world, keep your purse or wallet safe, it can get crowded, although we have never heard of anyone stealing in Turunҫ.

The colours of the clothes are also bright and cheerful...... Camera !

Take a breather in the centre of the Market where they have a few tables & chairs. Coffees are OK and you can watch the women making bread or pies next to where you sit.

Just a point.... if you do want to buy anything, check in the village first. The village price may be better even than the market, and more importantly, the market traders are from Marmaris and we would rather support the villagers of Turunҫ.

Ice Cream. If you see an ice cream cart just next to, or opposite the çay bahçesi (Tea Garden.....pronounced Cheye Bachesi.... / Dolmuş stop), treat yourselves to one, and watch his dexterity with the long spatula he uses to fill the cone.

Around & About and nearby.

At the harbour, closest to the beach, you can jump on a Water taxi. They run every 30 minutes in the summer, going from Turunҫ to Iҫmelar and Marmaris and back. There’s great views of all three bays on the way.... Camera ? Iҫmelar is worth a walk around and do lunch (Yes, it’s the law to have a Beer!), as is the Marina in Marmaris (Turn Right off the Water Taxi)

They can both be reached by Dolmuş, or normal Taxi and back. The Dolmuş goes from the çay bahçesi on the main street. Wednesday is market day in Iҫmelar, so it gets very busy and the Dolmuş’s are full. If you haggle enough, the Taxi driver may do 4 people for the same fare as 4 people on the Dolmuş. There is some nice walking towards the back of Turunҫ village, where quite a few ex-pats reside. A lot of locals also live there. There’s not a lot in the way of shops or restaurants, but well worth a wander around when it’s not too hot. If you are lucky to find the trail, there is an amphitheatre hidden in the hillside. (We haven’t seen it yet)

The more adventurous might like to walk to the next bay, Amos. Head away from the village and straight up after the Antic restaurant, or turn left after the Garage. It’s a couple of hours. Make sure you have a hat and plenty of water. Take your camera for the great views over Turunҫ bay towards Marmaris. There is some private villas with lovely flora as you walk down into Amos and you will end up at the shingle beach with a restaurant on it...... that’s all there is there. If you don’t want to walk back, a few water taxi’s do go to Amos, but not very often.... you may have a wait. The restaurant owner can get you a Taxi (it’s their own transport) but it does get you back quick. You can book for an evening meal there, and from the harbour in Turunҫ, where they will take you from Turunҫ to Amos in a small boat, have your meal and then return to Turunҫ afterwards. It’s a little more expensive there, for instance - the small beer is as much as a large one elsewhere, but you do get a lovely boat ride.

Further afield.

If you like to explore an area, there’s plenty of trips that you can book. You could, of course be adventurous and go for a hire car. Do make sure it has good, working air conditioning.

The resorts around the have plenty to see and do. On the southern side of the Peninsula, just beyond Amos is the very large open sandy beach of Kumlubük. It’s not crowded ! Çiftlik is next along, with it’s lovely sandy beach, sheltered waters and a private island in the bay. Söğüt is located by heading north. It’s close to the far end of the Bozburun Peninsula and is probably the most beautiful and unspoilt village in the region. The views here really are stunning. You can see the end of the Bozburun Peninsula (the ancient settlement of Loryma is there) In the far distance there is the Greek island of Simi. To the southwest of the village, about one kilometre away, you might be able to see a few remnants of the ancient city of Thyssanos.

Bozburun is the next village along to the north east. It’s world famous for its boat building. Turkish Gullets are constructed by hand using traditional methods handed over for generations. The Boat building goes on all over the village - often in the unlikeliest of locations - so keep your eyes peeled!

Selimiye to the north has an enviable location and is a must visit if you are doing this tour. It’s a very pretty and small village with an unusual round harbour. There’s not a lot there, but that’s it’s appealing quaintness.

Make sure that you call in at the mountain village of Bayir, either on the way going, or on the way back. The 2,000- year-old tree in the village centre has a tradition that if you walk around it’s huge trunk three times, whilst making a wish, it will come true (I’m still waiting!). You can also buy many types of local honey there including the special pine honey that the villagers harvest. The water of the fountain in the centre of the village is also worth tasting.

The above tour will take most of the day if you spend a short time at each place. If you have a car for a couple of days, you could revisit your favourite and spend more time there.

Another day out is Datça it’s at the far end of the Datça Peninsula. It is a long, narrow strip of land 100 km (or 62 mile) in length. It’s a good, fast road, passing through quite a few towns. You have to dedicate the whole day though to this one. Once you get to Datça, you will find a good selection of restaurants and shops. It’s unique location sees the Aegean Sea to the north and the Mediterranean Sea to the south. From the Peninsula you have a panoramic view of the Greek islands of Kos, Simi and Rhodes Nearby is Tasilik (pebble) beach with it’s natural hot water spring. It’s fed by water from the bottom of the mountains. The spring is in a beautiful Mediterranean setting, and it’s about 100 metres in diameter and 1.5–2 metres deep. The water itself is around 40DegC and contains dissolved minerals which are claimed to cure many ailments. There is an Olive farm near Datça that is an interesting experience, and a Vineyard & Winery on the hilltop ( You could call on the way back) You can taste and buy the wine if you wish.

Whichever Peninsula you do travel along, do take your camera! It is essential to record the stunning views that will leave you breathless and convince you that the rural Turkish countryside really is beautiful. If you are in a hire car, I recommend turning off the beaten track. You will find yourself driving through small villages and discovering wonderful little bays. The real small roads can be a challenge, so proceed with caution!

There are other trips a little further out, for instance boat trips to hidden bays or Turtle Beach, Ephesus, Pamukkale, The King’s tombs. Coach trips too. We have not tried any yet, because it’s not our thing and we don’t want to shorten our precious time in Turunҫ, so I can’t give my opinion on them.

All of the above coach tours and boat trips can be booked through any of the travel agents in Turunç - as can car hire if you wish. If you can stand the bone shaking and splashing, you could even try the Jeep Safari!

By Far, Our favourite day out is to book our own boat for the day.About 10:00am, go aboard and the crew will take you where you choose to go ( So long as you can do it in a day ) and supply barbequed lunch on the boat.( Drinks are extra though!) You can negotiate with the boat owners in the harbour, or book one with any travel agent in Turunç for the whole boat for the day, fully crewed. If there’s 8 or 10 of you, it’s a cheap boat trip!

For us, it’s just the best day you can have...... swimming from the boat in azure waters with very few other tourists. Visiting small secluded beaches – one has an abandoned church ruins – another we have seen wild boars up the hill. Throwing bread pieces into the water will bring the fish together to squabble for it. Snorkelling in the clear water you see the larger fish or maybe a squid or two. You may even get the Ice cream man calling by. He’ll be in a small boat, he will pull alongside to sell his wares although he doesn’t play the Mr Whippy tune! The crews are very friendly. İf you decide upon Musti’s boat, Musti is married to an English girl and speaks very good English. They usually aim to get back for about 5pm, a lovely time of the day, when the sun starts to be gentle. I suggest a G & T on the way back and you’ll feel like royalty!! If you are only a couple of people, you can still book a day on a boat individually, you will be amongst several other holidaymakers ( and some expat residents sometimes)

Whilst most of the Turkish people in Turunҫ can speak English, Please try and say a few words in Turkish, the local people will appreciate it and you will find a lot of respect just for trying. You are in their country, after all !

I hope you have now got some idea of what it’s like for us in our little paradise.

Pete Fairweather.

The following pages have useful Turkish words / phrases :-

English Turkish Pronounced Hello ! Merhaba Mare heba, or locally - merry bar Yes Evet Evet No Hayir Highir Please Lütfen Loot fen Thanks Teşekkürler Ter shake cular Thank You Teşekkürler ederim Ter shake cular ed irim You are Welcome Bir şey değil Burr shay dee OK Tamam Tamam No Problem Problem Yok Problem yok Good Morning Günaydin Goon eye den Good Afternoon Tünaydin Toon eye den Good Evening Iyi akşamlar Ee ak sham lar Good Night Iyi geceler Igi ge jer lar See you Later görüşürüz! Gorrer shurus See you next year Seneye görüsürüz Sani yay gorrer shurus How are you ? Nasilsiniz Nass ess in iz I’m fine, Thank you Iyiyim teşekkür ederim Ee yeem ter shake cular ederim Maybe Belki Balki Water Su Suu Tea Çay Chai Coffee Kahve Cahr fey Milk Süt Soowt Sugar Şeker Shake air Beer Bira Beera Wine Şarap Sharap Red Wine Kirimizi Şarap Ker mizzi sharap White Wine Beyaz Şarap Bayaz sharap Cheers! Şerefe ! Sherreeffer Enjoy your Meal Afiyet olsun Are fiat all son Very Tasty (Meal) Çok lezzetli Choke lazz etleey The Bill Please Hesap lütfen Hessap Loot fen Goodbye Güle Güle Glay Glay

Counting

Number Turkish Pronounced

1 Bir Bish

2 Iki Ikky

3 üҫ Ooch

4 Dӧrt Dirt

5 Beş Bish

6 Alti Alter

7 Yedi Yedi

8 Sekiz Seekiz

9 Dokuz Doekouz

10 On On

11 Onbir Onbish

12 Oniki On ikky

20 Yirmi Year mi

21 Yirmibir Yearmybish

22 Yirmiikki Yearmi ikky

30 Otuz Otuz

40 Kirk Kirk

50 Elli Elly

60 Altmiş Alt mush

70 Yetmiş Yet mush

80 Seksen Sek san

90 Doksan Doe ksan

100 Yüz Yooz

101 Yüzbir Yoozbish

200 Ikiyüz Ikky yooz

1000 Bin Bin