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Road Trip South Coast

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Road Trip South Coast IN A WORLD OF dual-lane, cruise-controlled, town-bypassed highways, EAT A toast to the The Bottle of Milk the Great Ocean Road offers a rare pleasure beyond its compelling vistas: 52 Mountjoy Parade, Lorne/24 Bell the simple joy of challenging driving as it snakes warily around the coast- Street, Torquay. thebottleofmilk.com line. As well as several small towns where the coffee is good and the surf A second branch of this funky burger joint opened in Torquay in breaks are perfect, the food demonstrates a growing pride and understand- 2013, five years after it began in ing of the local produce. The Otway hinterland, with its stately trees, Lorne (where they also run Pizza Pizza at 2 Mountjoy Parade). The waterfalls and jagged topography is home to cheesemakers, beef and pig breakfast burgers (BLAT on a farmers, breweries, wineries, berry farms and olive orchards, which can be sourdough bun from Geelong’s La discovered via the Otway Harvest Trail (otwayharvesttrail.org.au). Madre Bakery) is as welcome as the Dairy farms diversifying into cheese, ice-cream and even Seven Seeds coffee, and there’s COast Excitingly, one of the country’s finest chefs, Dan Hunter, now calls the also muesli, omelettes and French COAST toast. On weekend nights the DJ winemaking, a disused railway shed repurposed as a distillery Otways home, opening Brae in December last year (see page 62). making award-winning whisky, and a slew of superb restaurants Along with being an Australian rite of passage, the Great Ocean Road cranks up, with local beers on tap. – Victoria’s Great Ocean Road is a feast for all the senses. drive is a great family trip, with plenty to keep children entertained beyond A La Grecque long walks through tall forests and along rugged limestone coasts – from 60 Great Ocean Road, Aireys Inlet. (03) 5289 6922. alagrecque.com.au WORDS SIMON THOMSEN PHOTOGRAPHY JOHN LAURIE learning to surf to the thrill of the flying fox at Otway Fly – while the burgers The Talimanidis clan has been part and pizza that feature on menus along the 250km drive will appeal to all. of the local culinary landscape Low tide at Apollo Bay 58 QANTAS FEBRUARY 2014 FEBRUARy 2014 QANTAS 59 ROADROAD TRIPTRIP GREATVICTORIA OCEAN ROAD Cape Otway Lighthouse since the 1970s – Kosta and his spaghetti. The in-store bakery soup, spiced calamari with quinoa Opposite (clockwise from top left): Great Otway National Park; surfing family now in this beach setting, produces fabulous bread and salad and an Indian chicken curry. instructor Alistair Lawson at Bells and brother Chris in Apollo Bay pastries, and if the crowds are Beach; Gentle Annie Berry Gardens; (see below). The menu is modern too much, there’s a daily line of Gentle Annie wetsuits at Tigerfish, Torquay Med, fresh and fun: lamb bourek heat-and-serve evening meals to Berry Gardens with mint yoghurt, mussels in take home. 520 Pennyroyal Valley Road, The Pantry cider, spatchcock cassoulet. Pennyroyal Valley. (03) 5236 3391. Door at Basalt Wickens Delicatessen gentleannie.com.au 1331 Princes Highway, Killarney. Chris’s Beacon & Provedore This pick-your-own berry farm and (03) 5568 7442. Point Restaurant Shop 1, 137 Great Ocean Road, orchard is open November to While the Basalt wines cellar door 280 Skenes Creek Road, Apollo Apollo Bay. (03) 5237 1045. April, with a licensed cafe and a is open only on Sundays, this Bay. (03) 5237 6411. chriss.com.au Owner Robin Wickens may now store selling homemade jams, fruit delightful cottage restaurant and This critically acclaimed tree- be preoccupied with his role as sorbets and, of course, the fruit, if cafe is a smart pit-stop for house-like restaurant focuses on chef at Dunkeld’s Royal Mail, but you’re not in harvest mood. breakfast or lunch on Port Fairy’s seafood, with Chris Talimanidis his daytime cafe soldiers on with outskirts. There’s whisky porridge using his Greek heritage deftly to house-made crumpets and Merrijig Kitchen and caramelised banana, and wild flavour it. Of course, there’s ratatouille eggs for breakfast, then 1 Campbell Street, Port Fairy. mushrooms with eggplant puree red-wine braised, chargrilled sardines on toast and braised lamb (03) 5568 2324. merrijiginn.com and labna for breakfast; mac and octopus, and if the rabbit stifado salad for lunch. The restaurant at this old inn is cheese (made with Shaw River is on, say yes. one of the region’s best. Tanya buffalo cheese) and goat curry for Fat Cow Food Co Connellan’s elegantly simple menu lunch. Try the tempting pastries Wye General 10 Main Street, Timboon. champions local produce. Her with a coffee, or take home jams Store & Cafe (03) 5598 3177. playful twist on Peking duck – and salad dressings from the 35 Great Ocean Road, Wye River. If there’s a signature regional dish, glazed, smoked eel, pancake- pantry shelves. (03) 5289 0247. thewyegeneral.com it’s hamburger and chips, and this wrapped with Hoisin – is a A stylish institution hums as cafe does it extremely well, with triumph. She forages for samphire The Meating Place families swing by for all-day hand-cut chips and the burger’s to accompany chargrilled snapper 43 Main Street, Birregurra. breakfast, burgers that can be as sourdough bun filled with local wrapped in seaweed. The local (03) 5236 2611. sassy as pulled pork with coleslaw, contents, including L’Artisan Shaw River Annie Baxter buffalo birregurrafarmfoods.com.au pickled fennel and chipotle aioli; cheese. Beyond the usual cheese is as impressive as the wine The name of this weekend and come summer, simple, fresh suspects, the blackboard specials list, while much of the salad comes brunch and lunch cafe (wood-fired dinners of steak, pan-fried fish and might include Moroccan bean from the kitchen garden. pizza and grills) comes from the 60 QANTAS FEBRUARY 2014 Shaun McKinlay and breakfast (right) at ROAD TRIP victoRIA Wye General Store & Cafe, Wye River Beer and bicycles (right) at Apostle Whey Cheese shaped treats, the most Forrest Brewing Company 9 Gallum Road, Cooriemungle. eye-catching are giant chocolate (03) 5598 7367. freckles. Have a coffee or perhaps Tight margins for milk led dairy minty hot chocolate while tasting adjacent provedore, a weekday chardonnay, pinot farmers Dianne and Julian Benson the wares. butcher, wine and local-produce noir and shiraz are to open this cheesery in 2005. They store that serves coffee and cake. named after local vineyard from its dairy-farmer SHOP produce 11 cheeses: marinated feta, SEE & DO surf breaks, while founders in 2012. His fume-style Ripcurl blue, white mould, washed rind and Great Ocean Brae its excellent sauvignon blanc, chardonnay, Surf City Plaza, 101 Surf Coast flavoured havarti styles. Sample Road Surf Tours 4285 Cape Otway Road, easy-drinking $20 pinot grigio, sparkling, rose, shiraz Highway, Torquay. them with a free tasting and 106 Surfcoast Highway, Torquay. Birregurra. braerestaurant.com range is labelled and pinot noir are all worth trying, One of the most famous names in choose three favourites to enjoy (03) 5261 3730. gorsurftours.com.au Chef Dan Hunter’s new restaurant Longboard. Open: and taking home, and Falk gives a surfwear began in Torquay. In 1970, on a $15 cheese platter. An Englishman teaching at the former Sunnybrae site Fri-Mon, February- good cellar door chat. Open daily, locals Doug “Claw” Warbrick and Australians to surf? Alistair Lawson follows the critical acclaim he March (Fri-Sun, October-April 21. Brian “Sing Ding” Singer, shifted L’Artisan Cheese does it enthusiastically and received at Dunkeld’s Royal Mail winter and spring). from making surfboards to & Mouse Trap Café patiently, from the national Hotel. Hunter has revamped and Forrest concentrate on wetsuits to keep 23 Ford and Fells Road, Timboon. SurfGroms program for children smartened this pretty cottage Red Rock Estate Timboon Railway scooped the cask-strength and Brewing Company out the chill at Bells Beach, (03) 5598 3244. aged five to 12, to two-hour and the $180 menu draws its 1 Red Rock Reserve Road, Alvie. Shed Distillery overall titles at the 2013 Forrest-Apollo Bay Road, Forrest. revolutionising the design in the lartisancheese.com.au introductory classes for adults. inspiration from the 12ha (03) 5234 8382. 1 Bailey Street, Timboon. Australasian Whisky Awards. They (03) 5236 6170. process. The nearby Surf World The former Timboon Farmhouse There is also a range of surf and property’s organic gardens. redrockwinery.com.au (03) 5598 3555. also distil vodka and schnapps. forrestbrewing.com.au Museum (surfworld.com.au) Cheese site now makes six sightseeing tours of up to 10 days. Brae promises to be a standout When he’s not busy contract timboondistillery.com The distillery is a provedore as This microbrewery opened three celebrates life in the “green room”. French-style cheeses, using on the regional dining menu. winemaking for others, Rohan Dairy farmers Tim Marwood and well, championing local foods, and years ago in the village’s former organic milk, under Matthieu Tiger Moth World Little produces excellent pinot Caroline Simmons began making the excellent cafe is run by Simon general store. It is part pub, part Allansford Megard. The cafe with its garden Torquay Airport, 325 Blackgate DRINK noir, shiraz and cabernet under his Timboon Fine Ice Cream in 1999, Yarham and Tim Mitchell, formerly cafe for serious weekend Cheese World setting is a bucolic spot to enjoy Road, Torquay. (03) 5261 5100. Bellbrae Estate own label. The cellar door is open then established the 12 Apostles of Geelong’s much-loved 2 Faces. breakfasts: caramelised pineapple 5330 Great Ocean Road, cheese platters and scones.
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