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TURAS 2013/2014 THE SHANNON AIRPORT GUIDE

ON YOUR DOORSTEP COSMOPOLITANLIMERICK & STUNNING CLARE

DOLPHIN WATCHING SURFS UP GET YOUR FEET WET

GOLF LOSING BALLS ALL OVER

TURN SOUTH FROM THIS PLACE CORK & KERRY PICTURE POSTCARD TAKE ME WITH YOU I’M FREE!

YOUR IRELAND ADVENTURE

SHANNON AIRPORT GUIDE

CÉAD MÍLE FÁILTE... Ireland’s traditional welcome, Céad Míle Fáilte, translates as one hundred thousand welcomes and it gives a brief insight into the famous hospitality and friendliness that this country is most famous for. Though we may not, unfortunately, be able to guarantee you perfect weather throughout your time here, it is safe to say that wherever the road takes you, at journeys end you’ll “The road be met by a smile. will take you The Irish pride themselves on looking at the bright side of life, where it will, on carrying a sense of humour as a given and being proud to the scenery welcome guests to the table. So whether you decide to head for will change, the city lights or a remote outpost the same greeting awaits you; you may you’ll be treated as a guest and not a tourist. encounter It would be impossible and impractical traffic lights for us to provide in these pages a “must --- or you do” list. Our recommendations are may not, merely suggestions; they are some of the highlights that we know you’ll enjoy but you may by no means is it comprehensive. Your have to stay may be brief but we’re sure you’ll wait as enjoy it. sheep slowly The road will take you where it will, the scenery will change, you meander may encounter traffic lights or you may not, you may have to wait across the as sheep slowly meander across the road, you may win a sheaf of road...” euros on a horse that you picked just for it’s name, you may get a hole-in-one, you may get lost at a crossroads that has no signpost of any form, you may try oysters for the first time and Guinness for the second time, you may well fall in love.

The Ireland you’ve read about and heard of is alive and well and looking forward to meeting you. So any of the above may befall you; but you will certainly have a unique experience in a country delighted to offer you one hundred thousand welcomes...

The editorial team The Shannon Airport Guide was brought to you by Guerin Media Creative Print Solutions Merrywell House, Unit E Merrywell Business Park Ballymount Road Lower D12. T: + 353 1 4603615 F: + 353 1 4603616 Find out more at www.guerinmedia.ie

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7. SHANNON AIRPORT 81. THE NEAR NEIGHBOURS A wecome message from Shannon Airport Tipperary & Waterford show off their hospiltality, horses & hurling 16. ON YOUR DOORSTEP & Clare - what to see, where to go, 85. A DAY ON THE COURSE how will you ever want to leave? Losing balls all over Ireland, the ‘where to Go’ guide for fanatic and 25. BUNRATTY novices alike History at the end of the river 88. SHANNON RIVER What makes this place so majestic? 53. A TASTE OF OUR HISTORY When past meets present 92. GO WEST Nature, art, music, film festivals, 61. THE IRISH LANGUAGE top-class horse racing, surfing, golf Quick lesson in getting your Celt on and legendary attractions

65. IRISH PLACE NAMES 109. THE MIDLANDS Making sense: When Sleeves become What to see in the heart f Ireland Mountains and going to Kill on a Sunday is a good thing 113. THE EASTERN SIDE It’s not just about Dublin 67. TURN SOUTH Cork & Kerry: 117. DUBLIN, THE CAPITAL It’s no all about dolphins and beaches Your no-nonsense guide to the City

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Publishers Note: On behalf of Guerin Media Ltd we would like to extend our thanks to a few different parties involved in this project.

To Shannon Airport, a thank you for having the vision and insight to get involved with our idea and for contributing to help make it a great success.

To Bord Failte, Shannon Heritage and Gerry Lynch in My Destination , for their expertise, their images and their assistance; without which this publication could never have been nearly as eye-catching and informative.

To our advertisers and contributors: without your generosity and spirit this magazine would quite simply not exist; I hope your footfall surges.

To our own sales, production and design teams: congratulations all on yet another job well done and a product we can all be proud of.

And finally to our readers: thank you for taking the time to pick up a copy of Turas. I hope it helps in some way to may your Ireland adventure a lasting memory.

Best wishes and safe trip, The Guerin Media Team

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2012 of a Government Steering Group to oversee 2013 the restructuring of the State Airports and Shannon Development. AN HISTORIC YEAR: Limerick based and Clare born aviation expert and AN INDEPENDENT lawyer Rose Hynes was appointed as Chairman of SHANNON AIRPORT: an Aviation Business Development Task Force to report into the Steering Group on proposals for the restructuring. By the time it did, Rose, since confirmed as Chairman of the new Shannon Airport Authority Board, together with the airport executive, had drawn together a plan and vision for Shannon which they are confident is achievable.

And by all accounts, their confidence is well placed as not only were they busy devising the plan, they were equally active out in the field selling it, and successfully so. The response was such that Airport Director Mary Considine has no doubt but the airport is about to take-off one more time.

“The great thing about the work of the Task Force is that it was not just about putting a plan together. We have been out there talking to airlines and potential investors Shannon Airport has proudly declared in aviation related businesses and the response has been its very own independence and set out really positive.” on what it anticipates will be a new era “The immediate focus will be on sustainable traffic of sustained success for Ireland’s most growth. We have already made inroads in that regard historic airport. over recent months. We have secured new services to Chicago and Philadelphia that will give us a 22% uplift in passengers on transatlantic services alone during The word ‘Shannon’ has long since been the busy summer season.” “We also have a new route a by-word for innovation the world over to Faro and a doubling of our capacity to Bodrum in and is now about to embark on another Tu r k e y.” coming, as it were, after being given its “We see these significant wins over recent months as own wings by Government at midnight a start only and will be working hard to make other on December 31st 2012. equally significant gains over the coming months. Our goal is to increase passenger numbers to 2.5million The theme of ‘Just Think How Far We Can Go’ within five years. That’s over one million less than what had been chosen as the motif for the airport’s we achieved at peak in 2008 so we are confident it is a independence. It is evident across the terminal realistic target.” building today; draped in a huge banner outside facing on to the car park and emblazoned on the floors “We don’t expect it to be easy, however, but are prepared inside. for the hard-work and really excited by the task at hand. We are determined that when we look back in 20 years There is a real sense that this airport, which has we will see the moment Shannon achieved independence traditionally dared like no other to think big, sees as historic, a turning point for the airport as it were.” no boundaries and is on the move up again. The separation process had been months in the making; While securing passenger growth through boosting six months in fact, since the establishment, in June additional and securing new services out of the 7

SHANNON AIRPORT GUIDE historic airport will be the core target going forward, the airport also has its eye on another area of growth - RETAIL CHANGES AT in the same way that it broke new ground for aviation SHANNON AIRPORT: globally past through becoming the birthplace of duty- free and aircraft leasing in the past. The Shopping Gateway “We have a plan that is looking at developing a world- class international aviation services center, akin to what Pumping life into the commercial heart of has been done for finances with the financial sector the South West is something which Shannon through the development of the IFSC in Dublin. We Airport has been doing for over 70 years. have already very significant interest internationally in what we are going to create and believe that we have From its role as a gateway into the south of the the capacity to achieve 3,000 jobs within a three to country, to the spin off jobs it creates around the five year period. This will be across a cluster of diverse international, primarily aviation, related businesses area, it is one of the most important economic centered on the airport and building on the existing stimulators in the region. Broadening the appeal cluster of 40 aviation related companies working at of the airport has taken on fresh impetus this Shannon. We have commitments already by way of year though as the facility is enjoying its first Memorandums of Understanding for 1,000 within the season as a stand-alone entity since its split next three years”. from the Dublin Airport Authority at the “That’s a great start and we mean to continue. Shannon beginning of the year. must deliver on its role as the key economic driver for Continued on Page 11 the entire region. It’s in all our interests that it does and we intend to make it happen.”

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Part of that experience which the airport is offering is their retail area known as ‘The Loop’ which has seen considerable investment injected into it over the past year. Shannon, of course, is world famous when it comes to the retail side of its operation since the world’s first duty free experience was founded at the airport in 1957 by Dr Brendan O’Regan.

For generations the stop- over in Shannon en route to America was regarded as part of the excitement on the trip across the pond but changes to that arrangement led to leaner times at the to the continued success of business at the airport and facility. he acknowledges that the year ahead is going to be an extremely positive one for all at the iconic venue. Now that it is standing on its own two feet and “Shannon is the global birthplace of duty free shopping offering expanded routes into both America and and that’s a legacy we go out to honour every day. Europe the retail experience at Shannon is also Our focus at all times is making sure that passengers upping its game. not alone get to buy the goods they want, but that the experience is also enjoyable.”

The Loop “The Loop is all about enhancing the customer A total of €1m has been invested into ‘The Loop’ experience so that we combine the thrill of shopping over the past year and this has resulted in an and travel. We have a clear strategy to make airport enhanced experience for customers passing shopping easy for our customers by consistently through the most historic retail area in global delivering quality and value to our customers and by listening to their feedback.” aviation. “Customer service is another core objective of ours while Completed in three phases the new 900 square we are also constantly looking to introduce innovative metre retail sector has resulted in upgraded ways of making things better for our retail and travel perfume and cosmetic areas, a new area totally customers. It’s all about living up to the legacy handed devoted to selling Irish food including a range over to us and the feedback we get from customers suggests we are doing a good job. In the world of of artisan products, a new concession giftware airports, we know that we are never going to top the store from Glenarann, an Irish Memories scales on volume so our way of standing out is by souvenir outlet and a new dedicated Irish making the customer experience a truly better one”. whiskey store. That aim of making sure they stand out is one which is Brian Aherne, the Head of Commercial at Shannon certainly being met and the reaction from passengers Airport, feels that the investment is hugely important has been hugely positive. 11

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The fact that both the new Chairman of the Board “The improvements in the store design greatly enhanced Rose Hynes and her CEO Neil Pakey have worked the appearance and layout, allowing for improved aggressively to make sure that the number of carriers customer flow and shopping experience. Our shopping and cities serviced by Shannon has increased greatly area is spacious, bright and is all about saying to means there are bigger numbers passing through the customers that we are here for them and appreciate their gates of the airport. business. The introduction of our shop and collect service is another manifestation of that as we now have a facility that makes it more convenient for our customers Growing Business to purchase items without having the stress of bringing it In turn the number of new customers on their journey.” experiencing ‘The Loop’ for the first time has also increased – the airport’s passenger numbers Focussing on the wider commercial activity of were up by 8% in June after it had arrested five Shannon Airport the team know that the fact it is now independent means there is a lot of potential for them successive years of month-over-month decline- in the years ahead. Equally that situation brings a lot of and the job for Aherne and all his commercial added pressure but that is something which the whole team is to make sure their time in retail area is team are relishing. a positive one. Naturally their business is dependent on aviation - the “Airports can be stressful places but we have worked simple activity of people flying in and out of the airport. very hard at eliminating the stress so that our passengers So there is an overall operation to sell both the airport can relax and enjoy the time they have here before as a place of choice to customers and then entice them to departure. Our major refurbishment of ‘The Loop’ spend once they use the facility. was completed in December 2011, leading to the introduction of defined categories, including premium “We do see an opportunity, which we will look to brand leaders for perfume and cosmetics, as well as develop to a greater degree over the coming years, to the introduction of the very impressive Irish Whiskey develop non-aviation business at Shannon but right collection”. now, it’s all about passenger throughput and their spend.

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From the moment last year that the green light was In this short window passengers given to Shannon’s separation from the DAA, passenger can be processed through US growth was THE priority as everything flows from there pre-clearance facilities for US – the more passengers through the airport, the more Customs and Immigration, get revenue that drives”. their aircraft refuelled and then have the option to fly directly to “We are delighted therefore to see significant inroads any of 220 US airports, which already in passenger growth thanks to a range of new opens exciting new routing services already secured for the airport this year. This options including to a large has, for example, materialised into an 8% increase number of US domestic airports. in passengers numbers in June compared to the same Now proudly offering five US month last year. Transatlantic was up by a staggering destinations including New 38%, which is equally pleasing considering the average York, Boston, Chicago and spend by passengers on transatlantic routes is well Philadelphia, Shannon Airport is in excess of passengers on other routes. Already, the firmly positioned as the premier decision to separate Shannon is proving the right one transatlantic transit option for and commercially we will benefit from that as well at the US-bound business aviation. airport.” Shannon has traditionally The Loop currently employs 25 fulltime and 19 enjoyed significant numbers seasonal staff, all of whom are from or live in the of aircraft transiting between region, therefore giving a real sense of ‘community’ Europe, the Middle East, Russia amongst staff, which adds to the atmosphere at The and the US over the years due to Loop and, ultimately, heightens the experience for the its geographical location as the passengers. most westerly airport in Europe.

Shannon Airport also helps support employment in Now these reduced turnaround the supply chain, people delivering and manufacturing times, with pre-clearance into goods that are sold at The Loop the bargain, open significant Shannon Airport now has the freedom and additional opportunities for independence to decide its own destiny and the the airport, and customers are message from the whole team is that there’s plenty recognizing the significant more to come. Watch This Space. benefits of transiting through Shannon.

The presence at Shannon of a SHANNON AIRPORT number of leading international handlers such as Jet Ex, Major US pre-clearance Universal Aviation and Signature changes... Flight Support also adds to the Shannon Airport is welcoming a major upswing airport’s appeal. in business aviation interest after slashing as Another addition to the overall much as 60 minutes off turnaround times for Shannon offering for business US Customs and Immigration pre-clearance aviation will be the development due to procedural concessions State-side. by Quintessentially Aviation, which is the aviation wing of the The changes have cut turn-around times at the airport world’s leading luxury lifestyle to as little as 45 minutes, which has significantly group Quintessentially, of its heightening the appeal of Shannon -already the only first Irish VIP lounge at Shannon airport in the world to have US pre-clearance for Airport. business jets.

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On Your Doorstep: LIMERICK:

LIMERICK AND CLARE Limerick is in a way unlucky to be surrounded by counties with breathtaking natural beauty and rugged With Shannon Airport decreasing in size Atlantic coastlines. For this reason it sometimes lacks in your rear view mirror you are instantly the billing it deserves but it is a county rich in heritage faced with a choice. The surrounding counties and history and a city proud of its culture, sport, style of Limerick and Clare offer a wealth of and festivals. different opportunities; while Clare is famed Situated at the last fording point of the , for its natural beauty, stunning scenery and Limerick city has long played a vital role in the politics vibrant traditional music, Limerick is more and economics of the mid west region. Its location has cosmopolitan, a revitalised and rejuvenated city, made it an ideal centre for commerce and trade but its a hotbed of sport and home to Adare, surely one location, its greatest asset, has also cost the city dearly of the country’s most beautiful villages. as time and time again it was besieged, looted and burned by marauding armies. No wonder then that the corporate motto read “an ancient city studied in the So your first choice is whether you want to arts of war” view the majestic river Shannon over coffee and lunch in a riverside café in Limerick City Like most of Ireland’s cities Limerick was founded by or head to see the stunning scenery of the Clare the Vikings, on what is now known as King’s Island, in coastline and listen to Irish music over a pint in the 10th Century. Brian Boru’s victory at Clontarf in a quaint bar. The choice is entirely yours. 1014 led to the city being eventually attacked and the Vikings were forced to assimilate into the mainstream

16 SHANNON AIRPORT GUIDE of Irish affairs. The Normans the forces of King William but plans then O’Connell Street and expanded and fortified the city and the returning forces one year later the surrounding streets offer a when King John arrived in 1210 coupled with the lack of French wealth of choice and all the usual to inaugurate a new castle and support, led to Sarsfield being suspects and store names. Be sure bridge, it was given the status of forced to surrender. The Treaty of to look down the side streets to a city. Throughout this period the Limerick was signed and the city is find quirky smaller boutiques and city was divided into two separate still known as the Treaty city. The stores offering something a little towns, Englishtown and Irishtown, famous Treaty Stone, on which the different. These streets will also because of laws enacted to keep treaty was reputed to be signed, is offer you the chance to see many of the races apart. It was not until the one of the great historical treasures the best pubs, cafes and restaurants early 1600’s that new walls were of the city. in the city. Pull up seat for a while constructed to encompass the and watch the world wander past. entire city. Arriving into the city, to which The city centre is laid out in a grid, it seems all roads lead, you will called Newtown Pery after a local And how these walls were tested eventually come to rest on the 19th Century MP, so getting lost over the coming century as first main artery O’Connell Street. shouldn’t pose a problem. Cromwell and later King William This is a good time to drop laid siege to the city repeatedly. whatever baggage you have on Head south down O’Connell Street One of the city’s favourite sons, board and begin your tour of the and turn left to find the Georgian Patrick Sarsfield led a brave and city on foot. If you decide that House, a mansion built during cunning defence of the city against shopping is foremost in your the city’s redevelopment in the

Riverfest is Limerick’s premier annual summer festival celebrating the city and features live music, a food & artisan craft fair, water sports, fireworks, theatre, a giant BBQ, fashion and the Great Limerick Run!

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19th Century and a chance to see You will now also be nearing King If your feet haven’t tired yet then how these houses looked at a time John’s castle, an imposing fives head a little further out the Old when Limerick was booming. The sided Anglo Norman castle, again Cratloe Road to visit the famous house also looks onto the Peoples best viewed from the river side. Thomond Park, home to Munster Park and Limerick City gallery The famous treaty stone is across Rugby. In a sport mad city and both of which are worth a wander the bank, facing the castle from the county Munster Rugby still have around. Interestingly No 1-6 on west and on which it is rumoured top billing. It was in Thomond Park Pery Square, built in 1839, are the the surrender terms of 1691 were in 1978 that this provincial team only terrace in the city which is signed. The castle itself offers a met, and beat, the mighty All Blacks symmetrically designed. chance to revisit the history of the in a game celebrated in song, story sieges, enjoy the gate house, towers and even a stage play entitled Alone Heading back, north, onto and battlements and explore the it Stands. Tours of the stadium are O’Connell Street and further centuries. The site also houses available but if you get the chance onto Patrick Street you begin to Limerick Museum, a purpose built join the other 26,000 people there approach the most visited sites in building adjacent to the castle. It to cheer on Munster in a home the city; the , St. boasts a range of excellent exhibits game; it’s an atmosphere to relish. Mary’s Cathedral and King Johns which trace the origins of the Limerick also recently celebrated castle. region. Everything from award with much gusto winning winning example of exquisite the Munster Senior Hurling The Hunt Museum has a Limerick lace to the stunning civic championship and their quest to permanent collection as well as antiquities of the Civic Sword, the win the All Ireland title, last won various shows throughout the City Maces, etc are on show all year in 1973, remains on course. They year. It is a mixed collection, the round. would be very popular winners. life’s work of John and Gertrude Hunt and visitors are encouraged to view their diverse hoarding. The building which houses the collection, bequeathed to the people of Ireland, is the former custom house, a stunning building which needs to be viewed from the riverside.

At this point you will be crossing over the river and as you walk you will approach St. Mary’s Cathedral. Built in 1168 by Donal Mór O’Brien, King of Munster, this cathedral contains many unusual and very fine antiquities. The main points of interest are the pre- reformation limestone altar; the Leper’s Squint; the Reardos of the High Altar (carved by the father of Padraig Pearse) and the famous Misericords (a collection of twenty three, 450 year old carved oak seats used by the clergy during religious ceremonies in medieval times. To anyone interested in church architecture and antiquities a visit to St. Mary’s cathedral is a must.

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Having enjoyed the sights and One of the best examples of the the county. It is said that when the sounds of the city centre and the medieval tower house is Castle level of the lake fell by nine feet in history therein, head out into Matrix near Rathkeale. Its present the 19th Century, artefacts from it the countryside. Limerick’s rural owner has faithfully restored were carried away by the cartload. hinterland features some of the the 15th century fortress, which It appears these artefacts, from finest farmland in Ireland. Known was built by the seventh Earl of shields, axes and swords of bronze as the Golden Vale, the rich alluvial Desmond. However the Normans and gold, were cast into the lake soils are amazingly fertile and have were just another line of people as offerings to the lake gods. They sustained a thriving agricultural who settled Limerick and there are now rest in museums, nationally economy here for thousands of many Stone Age, Bronze Age and and internationally. years. The Normans recognised Iron Age forts to be seen around the value of these lands and every the county as reminders of this. There is a visitor centre and a major Norman family had lands One of the most intriguing pre chance to explore the island of in Limerick. It goes some way to historic sites is the enchanting Knockadoon, festooned with explaining the fact that there were Lough Gur, outside the village of historic sites and also featuring once four hundred and twenty Bruff. It is not an overstatement a cave which is reputed to be the seven tower houses dotted around to say that it is probably the most entrance to Tír na nÓg, the fabled the county’s landscape. important archaeological site in land of eternal youth!

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Heading towards Kerry from Limerick city you will The heritage centre will give you a great insight come to the beautiful village of Adare, filled daily with and traces the development of Adare from the 13th visitors eager to see this quaint and pretty place. It was Century to the present day. Life of the day in the town the Earls of Dunraven who decided that their estate and its monasteries are depicted in colourful murals village should be pleasing to the eye and they set about while a detailed audio-visual display and models bring making it so in the early 19th Century. Their efforts the past centuries to life once more. were worthy and that work, along with the many medieval remnants, certainly helps make the village so Many of the attractions of the surrounding areas are picture postcard to this day. also highlighted. The centre, the , the Friary, the bustling craft and arts shops, the selection of excellent restaurants and bars, the beauty of the place make a visit to Adare always worthwhile. Though the traffic can be heavy, it’s worth pulling in and enjoying.

Another piece of Limerick history worth visiting and celebrating is the Foynes Flying Boat Museum; recreating and celebrating a time in the late 30’s and early 40’s when Foynes became a vital stop over for transatlantic flights. The Flying Boats were usually the chosen transport of the wealthy and the famous and everybody from Hemmingway to Bob Hope have contributed to the history of the place.

It is also the original source of the world famous Irish Coffee, many of which you will no doubt be offered during your stay here.

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BUNRATTY Bun na Raite, meaning “End of the Raite river”, is a village in County Clare in the parish of Newmarket on Fergus, Ireland

Heading west from Limerick you will come to and Folk Park, one of the most beautiful and popular visitor attractions in the country. The sense of history and the attention to detail about the place make it a great afternoon entertainment.

Stay for the banquet if time and pocket allow, but first wallow in the majestic surroundings of the best kept castle in the land and the brilliant folk park attached.

The site on which Bunratty Castle stands was in origin a Viking trading camp in 970. The present structure is the last of four castles to be built on the site.

Robert De Muscegros, a Norman, built the first defensive fortress (an earthen mound with a strong wooden tower on top) in 1250. His lands were later granted to Thomas De Clare who built the first stone castle on the site. About this time and they agreed to profess Bunratty became a large town of 1,000 inhabitants. loyalty to the King of England. The reign of the In 1318 Richard De Clare, son of Thomas, was killed O’Briens came to an end in a battle between the Irish and the Normans His with the arrival of the followers were routed and the castle and town were Cromwellian troops and the completely destroyed. The castle was restored for the castle and its grounds were King of England but was laid waste in 1332 by the surrendered. Irish Chieftains of Thomond under the O’Briens and MacNamaras. It lay in ruins for 21 years until it was rebuilt by Sir Thomas Rokeby but was once again The O’Briens never returned to Bunratty but later they attacked by the Irish and the castle remained in Irish built a beautiful residence at , now a hands thereafter. luxury 5 star hotel.

The powerful MacNamara family built the present Bunratty Castle and its lands were granted to various structure around 1425 but by 1475 it had became Plantation families, the last of whom was the Studdart the stronghold of the O’Briens, the largest clan in family. They left the castle in 1804 (allowing it to fall North Munster. They ruled the territory of North into disrepair), to reside in the more comfortable and Munster and lived in great splendour. The castle was modern Bunratty House, which is open to the public surrounded by beautiful gardens and it was reputed to in the grounds of the Folk Park. have a herd of 3,000 deer. Bunratty returned to its former splendour when Under Henry VIII’s ‘surrender and re-grant’ scheme, Viscount Lord Gort purchased it in 1954. The the O’Brien’s were granted the title ‘Earls of Thomond’ extensive restoration work began in 1945 with the help

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SHANNON AIRPORT GUIDE of the Office of Public Works, the Irish Tourist Board facilities. Be sure and drop into Mac’s for a pint! The and Shannon Development. It was then opened to the pub is furnished to reflect the lifestyle of the time public in 1962 as a National Monument and is open and the fact that the publican not only sold drink, to visitors year round. It is the most complete and in former times, but also traded in groceries and authentically restored and furnished castle in Ireland. hardware.

When you visit Bunratty Folk Park you experience a Costumed characters recreate the traditions and living reconstruction of the homes and environment lifestyle of a bygone age and animate the Folk Park. of Ireland of over a century ago. Set on 26 acres, the Among these well known and loved characters are the impressive park features over 30 buildings in a ‘living’ Bean an Ti (woman of the house), RIC (Royal Irish village and rural setting. Constabulary) policeman and Schoolteacher. Traditional jobs and crafts are also represented, milling, Rural farmhouses, village shops and streets are the forge, pottery, printing, baking, farming, etc. recreated and furnished as they would have appeared at that time according to their social standing, from You will also get to visit the beautiful walled garden at the poorest one roomed dwelling to Bunratty House Bunratty House. It is a surviving part of the demesne a fine example of a Georgian residence for the gentry which was originally formed around Bunratty Castle. built 1804 home of the Studdarts, the last family to The garden was built for the house c 1804. As walled occupy Bunratty Castle. gardens go it is small, just less than half an acre, this was due to the fact that a large garden would have The Village Street allows you to experience village life existed within the demesne, located north of the in 19th Century Ireland. The village houses and shops castle. This large garden would have functioned as a in the Folk Park have been chosen from many different kitchen garden for Bunratty House and therefore it was unnecessary to have another large production garden.

The garden was built on the east side of the house and beyond the stables protected from the prevailing westerly winds. It is enclosed by four original stone walls forming an irregular space. Apart from the walls, no original features remain except for a disused entrance to the south wall near the house, which would have been used by the family and a cart entrance near the south east corner, with original Iron Gates. Views from the garden to the east overlook the reclaimed salt marshes of the Owengarney River Valley and to the south toward the River Shannon Estuary. areas, to form a collection of typical 19th century urban Irish buildings including the School, Doctor’s The gardens at Bunratty Folk Park have been restored house, Pawnbrokers, Pub, Drapery, Print works, with the assistance of an ERDF grant through the Grocery, Hardware shop, Pottery and a Post Office. Great Gardens of Ireland Restoration programme.

In the early 19th century the country people provided The project includes the environs of the Folk Park as for most of their own needs in food, clothing and well as the formal walled Regency Garden adjacent supplies and bought only luxuries such as sugar, salt to Bunratty House. Each of the garden plots of the and tea. Fairs and markets at the Village gave the vernacular dwellings in the Folk Park have also been farmers and the rural craftsmen an opportunity of restored, with special attention to the planting and selling their products for cash, while shops provided land use of the period. The concept creates a product, for the rural dwellers needs. which is unique in Ireland and the rest of Europe. Its uniqueness is in the fact that the gardens and environs MacNamara and Sons at the top of the village street form part of the history of the everyday lives of the is a fully licensed working pub in the style of an old inhabitants of the houses as well as depicting Irish fashioned hotel bar and provides modern catering horticultural heritage.

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ONCE you leave the heady surrounds of Its bare limestone escarpments and rocky hills give the Bunratty you have now begun your journey through impression of a barren land but that is far from true. Co. Clare. In terms of raw beauty it is hard to match Within its confines the hoards seven thousand the coastline of Clare. From Kinvara to the land years of history, including Stone Age, Bronze Age and and sea meet to create scenes of absolute splendour. Iron Age forts, farms and burial grounds. Add to this ’s astounding variety of flora and it’s easy to The raw power and beauty of the west coast is see why it attracts hundreds of thousands of visitors apparent form the moment you look away from the every year. relative calm of Galway Bay, where in between lies the spectacular Black Head, where the rock formations of However North Clare isn’t just about the Burren. the Burren fall away to the sea. The equally spectacular are not to be missed. Have your breath taken away by seeing what North Clare boasts the charm and culture of the 700ft of sheer rock face standing against the Atlantic matchmaking festival held each year at the spa resort fury looks like. It is one of the most jaw dropping of Lisdoonvarna; West Clare retorts with the wild sights on this island. Take a trip up to O’Brien’s tower, exuberance of Milltown Malbay’s Willie Clancy Week; north from the cliff faces and use the viewing tower to the eastern half of the county has it’s own particular fully appreciate the setting. Alternatively stroll around beauty, although not as wild and rugged as the north the visitor centre and its information on the wildlife and west, the grasslands around Tulla and Quin have and history of the area, with interactive screens and 3D wonderful pastoral charm. projections. In truth one of the best ways to view the cliffs is by boat, available from Doolin which is nearby. The Burren dominates North Clare. This unique natural environment stretches to over 100 square miles and is These trips run regularly and give a great perspective rightly considered one of Ireland’s greatest treasures. of the wall of rock above you.

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Fishing was once the very life blood of communities like Kilkee, and other villages on the peninsula but game fishing and other marine activities, including diving and dolphin watching, have now largely replaced this industry.

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This area is also awash with beautiful beaches at Lahinch or Fanore and there are great little pubs and restaurants to be found in towns like , Lisdoonvarna, , Corofin and Ennistymon. Clare is another sporting county (is there any county in that isn’t?) and they boast great tourism numbers for two particular sports, golf and surfing. Lahinch is famed for both as is Doonbeg in West Clare where surfers come from all over the globe to enjoy the waves and golfers come from all over the globe to play the spectacular Greg Norman designed golf course. The sea played a major role in the design of these top class golf courses and it is the sea that has influenced many of the traditions of West Clare. Fishing was once the very life blood of communities like Kilkee, Carrigaholt and other villages on the Loop Head peninsula but game fishing and other marine activities, including diving and dolphin watching, have now largely replaced this industry.

Dolphin watching trips are available from Carrigaholt and Kilrush Creek marina. The Shannon has one of the last remaining pods of estuarine dolphins in Europe and they often can be seen jumping and playing close to shore and further out in deeper waters. The trips normally take a couple of hours and you’ll often find company in the form of the dolphins swimming alongside the boat or riding the bow wave. Hydrophones are usually supplied to allow you to hear their communication.

Of Course there are a lot more things to do in North and West Clare without ever getting your feet wet; the usual array of walking, climbing, pony trekking, cycling, etc are widely available. It is difficult to find natural beauty, craic and culture in one charming mix but Clare delivers such a package.

The attractions of East Clare are often overlooked by travellers favouring the more noted, rugged and famed sights and sounds of the Atlantic side. But East Clare has a wealth to offer. The region is dotted with a multitude of Gaelic castles, tower houses and abbeys, testament to the continued lordship of the O’Brien and McNamara clans in the area up to the 17th Century. These legacies of the past include the 12th Century Ennis Abbey and the medieval . Nearby Knappogue and Bunratty castles stage nightly medieval banquets featuring Irish music, song and dance.

Loophead Lighthouse on the north side of the mouth River Shannon, in County Clare Triathlon Races Inset top: SurfingDoonbeg; bottom: competitors at the off 31

SHANNON AIRPORT GUIDE

Although solidly inland, East Clare is not without its watery delights. The region has more than forty lakes providing top class course and sport angling. Among the most celebrated of these lakes is Lough Graney which provided the inspirational setting for Brian Merriman’s 18th Century epic poem Cuirt an Mhean- Oiche (The Midnight Court), a racy and bawdy poem that railed against celibacy and the sexual neglect of women.

Ennis, the county town of Clare, is one of Ireland’s finest towns. Beautifully centred on an island in the Fergus River, its small narrow streets and squares give it an intimate and friendly atmosphere. The town developed around a medieval Franciscan abbey which Nearby to Lough Graney, in Tuamgraney, is the was founded by the O’Brien Kings of Thomond in country’s longest serving church, dating from 996AD 1240, the ruins of which can still be seen today. and open to visitors daily. The town has changed much in the interim but it’s as The largest of the lakes in Co. Clare is , charming as ever and expanding to accommodate a which forms the counties eastern boundary. Isolated fast growing population. by the empty heights of Slieve Bernagh and Slieve Aughtie mountains, the lake is a genuine jewel. It is the Over the centuries Ennis developed a reputation as largest of the river Shannon’s lakes and probably the a market town and that tradition continues today. most popular for water sports. It is among the busiest Visitors still enjoy the wide range of shopping the town sections of the waterway for cruisers and also used offers, particularly the abundance of home-produced widely for sailing, wind surfing and water skiing. crafts. The lake is bordered by some beautiful small towns, Terryglass and Garrykennedy on the Tipperary side Music is an integral part of the Clare scene and this is and Killaloe on the Clare side would be some of the of course very evident throughout Ennis. The town is best known but each oozes character and charm. one of the best in the country for traditional sessions and every night there are usually a number to choose Killaloe is one of the oldest settlements in Co. Clare. It from; it’s simply a matter of finding them as they may is situated at the southern end of Lough Derg, where not be flagged in advance. Sit in and enjoy. Ennis the great river narrows, and its old quarter is centred is also home to the Glór Music Centre. The Centre on the 13th Century cathedral of St. Flannan. Beside provides a forum for Irish and international musicians the cathedral is the Thogrim Stone, a carved stone and artists to showcase their work and celebrates the that bears both Celtic ogham and runic inscriptions. traditions and evolution of Irish music. Killaloe is a very popular tourist centre and is served well by excellent facilities and a wealth of good bars With Lough Derg, The Burren National Park, the and restaurants. famous Cliffs of Moher, the river Shannon, you’d

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SHANNON AIRPORT GUIDE think that Clare has more than her fair share of the Voyage of St. Brendan the Navigator, reputed to natural wonders but we must also make mention of have discovered America centuries before Columbus. the stunning Aillwee Caves at Ballyvaughan. With its St. Brendan the Navigator (who died c. 583 AD.) stalactites, stalagmites, relics of bears and waterfall, it was, according to a 9th century manuscript, “The has become one of the most visited attractions in the Navigacio”, the first man to discover the ‘Promised country. If you can take nature making your jaw drop Land’ across the Atlantic. This place he called High again, make it an essential part of any trip to the Burren. Basil and it first came to him a dream.

In 1976 Tim Severin, a modern day explorer, built a leather-hulled boat based on the vessel described in the manuscript, and on the Currach still used on Ireland’s West Coast. He and his crew then made the voyage with stops on the Aran Islands, in Donegal, the Hebrides and in the Faroes, over-wintering in Iceland, and proved it was possible for St. Brendan to have made the voyage to America in such a craft. The actual boat used in this endeavour is on display in a specially constructed glass boathouse, reminiscent of a glacier. You’ll wonder how St. Brendan survived that arduous journey all those years ago.

Craggaunowen also includes a Ring Fort, a true It is also important that you take some time reproduction of a farmer’s house, dating from the 4th to experience the Living past Experience in or 5th century. Ring forts, of which there are about . You get a genuine sense of stepping 40,000 examples throughout Ireland, were the standard back in time. There are a number of fascinating type of farmstead during the early Christian Period elements to Craggaunowen. You’ll insight into how (5th -12th centuries AD). the Celts made their homes on a Crannog (meaning ‘young tree’), a reconstructed lake-dwelling or artificial The contemporaries of the people living in Ring forts island on which people built houses, kept animals, and produced the magnificent artefacts of the Golden lived in relative security from enemy clans or invaders. Age - the Ardagh Chalice, the Tara Crannogs were found in Ireland during the Iron Age Brooch, the Book of and early Christian periods. Though some homesteads Kells, the Derrynaflan were inhabited during the Late Bronze Age and in Hoard and many some cases were still being occupied as late as the 17th other masterpieces. century. Souterrain (below ground) Crannogs were constructed by placing layers of stone, or underground brushwood, tree trunks and even, old dugout canoes, passages designed on the lakebed. These were held together by wooden primarily as food pilings and the platform was covered with a layer storage areas, were of earth or sand. On this the inhabitants built their ventilated, but draft thatched houses of wattles and mud and surrounded free. They maintain a themselves with a protective timber fence. These constant temperature artificial islands were generally approached by dugout of around 4 degrees no matter how hot it gets on the canoes or by various types of causeways or bridges. surface. They could also be used as places of refuge The exhibit also includes an original dugout canoe so during attacks on the Ring Fort, many souterrain have you can see for yourself exactly how they travelled. secondary or tertiary chambers which are difficult to Another important attraction at Craggaunowen is the enter, thereby affording their occupants a measure of ‘Brendan Boat’, the hide boat in which Tim Severin security. sailed from Ireland to the United States, re-enacting

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You can also see Fulacht Fia, a many medieval objects, were exhibited. reconstructed cooking site which was The entire exhibition now resides in the common throughout the country. Hunting Hunt Museum in Limerick City. It was John parties used them over a long period of Hunt who came up with the concept for time, from the early Bronze Age to the Craggaunowen as you see it today and he Elizabethan period. A rectangular hole was generously donated it and his collections to dug in low-lying land where it was sure to the people of Ireland. fill with water. This was clad on the four sides with wooden sections. Stones heated Before you leave you’ll also see an Iron Age on the campfire were then used to boil the wooden track or Togher, originally laid in water in the wooden trough. A joint of 148AD. It was excavated in 1975 at Corlea venison was then wrapped in straw and put Bog, Co. Longford and a section of it was into the boiling water and cooked for a set then moved to here for study and display. period. In some places, transport was a major problem during the Iron Age. Near the sea Craggaunowen Castle itself was built by or rivers, skin covered boats or dug-out John MacSioda MacNamara in 1550 a canoes made travel easy. In order to reach descendant of Sioda MacNamara who built areas far from waterways it was necessary in 1467. It is a typical to travel through the heavily wooded or example of a fortified Tower House, which bog covered countryside. was the ordinary residence of the gentry at the time. After the collapse of the Gaelic Occasionally to connect two important Order, in the 17th century, the castle was sites or places, wooden roadways were built left roofless and uninhabitable. across bogs or marshes. These were made by placing runners of birch or alder on The restoration work was completed the surface and covering them with large in 1965 by John Hunt, who added the oak planks to make a road. Your visit to extension to the ground floor where part Craggaunowen will leave you with a great of his collection of antiquities, containing sense of history and some stories to tell! 36 SHANNON AIRPORT GUIDE

There are of course numerous Clare Archaeology Centre, Dysert tomb carvings dating from the 15th other attractions dotted around O’Dea Castle: Home to the O’Dea Century this idyllic county, some of which clan until 1691 this castle is located you may not want to miss: in one of the richest archaeological Kilrush Heritage Centre: “Kilrush areas in Europe. Open daily May- in Landlord Times” depicts Clare Heritage and Genealogical September. the story of Kilrush from its Service, Corofin: Portrays the establishment as an estate town by traumatic period of Irish culture Cruises: take a trip up the majestic the Vandeleur landlords at the end which includes famine and Shannon River or a trip to one of of the 18th Century. It’s the starting emigration. They also offer a Clare’s beautiful islands. Maybe point for a heritage walk through professional genealogical service take the 30 minute trip from the town of Kilrush. Open daily to anyone wishing to trace their Doolin to the Aran Islands. Or take June to September. ancestry. Open all year round. a ferry to Scattery Island, the site of a monastic settlement where the You will of course find many other Cratloe Woods House: dating round tower and several churches distractions and attractions as your from the 17th Century this is the can still be seen. Or if you’re here travel around this very special part only example of an Irish longhouse in autumn take a cruise to see if of the world. We hope you get time which is still lived in as a family you can find any passing migrating to move further around the country home. The house is steeped in Minke whales. There’s a world of than only Limerick and Clare but if history and features works of art, choice. you don’t, you’ve chosen a great place curios and, in the yard, horse to start and finish! drawn farm machinery and a pet’s : Founded by the corner. Open June to September, O’Brien Kings of Thomond in the Monday to Saturday. 13th Century, the chancel has rare 37

WELCOME TO BALLYVAUGHAN Ballyvaughan is not just an idyllic destination; while there why – CAPITAL OF THE BURREN not enjoy the excitement of all the local amenities. www.discoverballyvaughan.com an enchanting picturesque village of thatched There are an abundance of exciting activities to choose from cottages on the West Coast of Clare. With a including, surfing, and swimming, cycling, walking, climbing, dramatic backdrop of the historic limestone kayaking and fishing. Check out the calendar of events for what is landscape and overlooking Galway Bay this is happening in Ballyvaughan or visit the web site the ideal base for any traveller to explore, relax www.discoverballyvaughan.com and enjoy the amazing Burren. Explore the many hiking trails that crisscross this amazing and Stroll along the water front with its sail boats and catch one of the unique world UNISCO designated landscape. amazing sunsets. Take the Burren Atlantic drive, voted one of the top ten drives in the world. This coastal route, with the Atlantic The Ballyvaughan Wood Loop is an easy walk for most to enjoy. Ocean on one side and the Burren limestone rising up on the The Black Head and Caher Valley Looped walks are more other, is both dramatic and enchanting. The drive includes some challenging taking you to the heart of The Burren and offering of the most historic monuments of the Burren and the breath some wonderful views of Galway bay and the Aran Islands (see taking Cliffs of Moher. www.shannonregiontrails.ie).

43 Drop by the Farmers Market on Saturday for a great variety Whether following the Woodland trails, watching the of local produce and a chat. falcons and hawks at the Bird of Prey Centre or taking the peaceful Mountain Walk you are guaranteed a day to You can enjoy this informal social gathering for both local remember. residents and visitors alike with live traditional musicians providing the entertainment. Quality Gifts and Souvenirs are available locally. Linn Fashions & Gifts, stocks beautifully hand crafted gifts and A visit to the Craft Fair is a must. Open every Sunday from Ladies fashions of international and Irish leading labels. May to October this Craft Fair showcases the vibrant art and craft scene in the Burren region. Information, maps, books on the locality, are available at The Tourist Information Centre in the Gift Shop (visit Enjoy an Arts Exhibition at the in the www.linnfashionireland.com). picturesque grounds of Newtown Castle. Quinn Craftshop (www.craftshop.ie) has a wonderful Bring the family for a fun packed day to the famous Aillwee selection of quality Irish made products and beside this the Cave with its Bird of Prey Centre and Farm Shop home to Ballyvaughan self catering cottages its award winning Burren Gold cheese. (www.ballyvaughan-cottages.com).

44 The Village Store is a little oasis in the heart of Ballyvaughan. Its extensive deli, fresh fruit and vegetables and “ready to go” tea and coffee or a nice wine- are all you need for a Burren picnic or trip to nearby Blue Flag accredited Fanore Beach.

When the day is done why not enjoy great food in one of a number of award winning restaurants.

There are a variety of menus to suit all tastes and budgets. From the opulent dining experience of An Fulacht Fia (www.anfulachtfia.ie) with its beautiful view of Galway Bay to the world famous seafood menu of Monks (www.monks. ie) Bar and Seafood restaurant on the pier (you must try their famous chowder) or L’Arco Italian restaurant (visit their web site www.burrenrestaurant.com), winner of “Best Casual Dining” award 2012 and 2013 by the Restaurant Association of Ireland. Or perhaps you just want to relax with tea and cake in one of the many pretty tea-rooms or coffee houses.

End your evening on a high note enjoying a variety of music for the young and not so young in the local bars where a warm welcome awaits you. You may not want to leave.

For all information on Ballyvaughan including accommodation, what to see and do, and to check the Calendar of Events for what is happening go to www.discoverballyvaughan.com or visit us on Facebook.

45 BURREN & SHANNONSPECIAL AIRPORT ADVERTISING GUIDE FEATURE CLIFFS OF MOHER

46 SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE BURREN & CLIFFS OF MOHER GEOPARK

With its magnificent limestone together with a guide to provide you backdrop and UNESCO- with some local history? Or if cycling is more your speed, why not try a guided recognized Global Geopark tour through the limestone mountains? status, the Burren & Cliffs of Moher Geopark, has emerged as For the more adventurous, try your a leading holiday destination in hand at surfing the waves on the Ireland, and with this comes a beautiful gold sandy beach of Fanore host of local businesses waiting to or jump in a sea kayak in Ballyvaughan Bay to enjoy a guided tour complete show you just what the region has with seals, hidden coves and islands. to offer. And what is has to offer Or how about strapping on a helmet is something truly unique. and delving down into the complex network of caves that are buried deep While the world famous Cliffs of beneath the limestone pavement? Moher are one of the most spectacular sites in all of Ireland, what lies around Brush up on your history with a visit them offers just as much beauty, to the Burren Centre in Kilfenora, or history and activity - and all in one discover the roots of Gaelic Games at very accessible area - the Burren. the Michael Cusack Centre in Carron.

Why not grab your hiking boots and For a more relaxing trip, enjoy the hike the many way-marked trails peacefulness of yoga and meditation

47 sessions or discover your inner artist and learn to paint. Or find yourself relaxing in a cozy chair by a fire in the many award-winning hotels in the area.

And for the foodies, well, this is a paradise! Local producers of high-quality cheese, pork, beef, lamb, seafood, organic veggies, ice cream, and even beer, collaborating with many award-winning, chef-led restaurants and eateries. You can try them all along the newly created Burren Food Trail.

On top of all the sights to see and activities to take part in, on a visit to the Burren & Cliffs of Moher Geopark what you will find is a community that has passion and pride for the region they live and work in. Emerging from this community spirit came Burren Ecotourism, a network of local businesses with a philosophy of awareness, conservation and sustainability.

It is these businesses that seek to ensure that you, the visitor, not only have an exciting and memorable holiday experience but also that you feel you have supported sustainability and conservation efforts in the local community - many members of Burren Ecotourism have been independently eco-certified.

48 The network prides itself on bringing communities SPECIAL ADVERTISING FEATURE together, and helping them work towards a common goal – to provide genuine and authentic experiences for all visitors to the region.

Whether visiting the Burren & Cliffs of Moher Geopark as an afternoon outing or for a full two-week vacation, there is so much available here to fill each and every moment, no matter what your interest!

So come, into the wild Burren we go. Spend a day, or spend a week; it is like nowhere else. Come and see the pride, the care, the passion of the community. Discover that everything you want is within reach. So come, and be, in the Burren.

The Burren & Cliffs of Moher Geopark and Burren Ecotourism work together to promote the Geopark as a leading sustainable visitor destination, celebrated for high standards in visitor experience, conservation and learning. Both are committed to the promotion of responsible tourism that conserves the environment and improves the well-being of local people.

‘So come and be in the Burren’ www.burrenecotourism.com.

49 at the time charting the caves of the Burren area with their university. They left Who’s got the ‘WOW’ factor! their group on Whitsunday and went exploring on their own. They noticed a small stream disappeared at the bottom of a huge limestone cliff. They pulled THE GREAT STALACTITE AT back some boulders and dug their way into a narrow passage and managed to wriggle their way for about a quarter of a mile until they reached the large IS THE LONGEST chamber that contains the stalactite. FREE-HANGING STALACTITE • The cave tour takes approx. 50 minutes! • Tours every half hour in high season and IN THE NORTHERN hourly at other times! • Perfect for families! HEMISPHERE AND IS A • There are 120 steps down to the cave, every STUNNING UNDERWORLD 10 steps, there is a landing with seating! • With Farm animals and nature trail it is the WONDER. ideal day out for all!

The Great Stalactite is a world-class Natural wonder at Doolin Cave, and is becoming one of the most important eco-tourist attractions in Ireland. Measuring 7.3 metres (23 feet) in length, it is recognised as being the longest DIRECTIONS: stalactite in the Northern hemisphere. The Great Stalactite has been opened up to the eyes of the world. Doolin Cave is located From the moment you descend over 80ft into the first tunnel, with your guide, 15 minutes drive you will enter a world carved by water. Donning your hardhat, you will follow the from the Cliffs of Moher rough-hewn route of the early explorers who first discovered the cave. When you enter the stunning, cathedral-like dome that houses the huge stalactite, you will and 5 minutes from Doolin on the be briefly plunged into a world of primitive darkness. Then, in a flash, you will R479 (Doolin to Fanore Road) be awed as the subtly-lit stalactite appears before you. And, far below, a magical stream carries to the hills outside, the water that carved the primeval world around you. 45 minutes from Shannon Airport. 3.5 hours from Dublin. History 1 hour from Galway City. In modern times the cave was discovered in1952 by J.M. Dickenson and Brian 3 hours from Cork. Varley of Craven pothole Club based in the Yorkshire Dales. They were students Lat Long Co-ordinates 53.0419, -9.3450