Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group Volume 30 Issue 9 September 2020

MOUNT BANKS AND BANKS WALL TOPIC named Mount Banks after his OUR AUGUST patron and benefactor Sir Joseph Banks. WALK The following day, with MOUNT BANKS SUMMIT, provisions running low, the BANKS WALL and RETURN party headed for home. Caley via FIRETRAIL pleased that he had reached Friday 21st August 2020 Saddle Hill (Mt Banks) and that he had been able to collect Thunderstorms and heavy rain thirty new botanical specimens lashed the northern face of the to be sent to Sir Joseph Banks; mountain as four walkers sought the three ticket-of-leave men shelter in a cave at the base of the simply pleased to be heading prominence. These four walkers home. were not part of our group but were an exploratory group who Spring in the Bush Leap forward two hundred and set out two hundred and sixteen sixteen years and fourteen years ago to venture further into walkers gathered not far from these parts of the mountains than any other that cave used by Caley’s party. We were Europeans. spared the thunderstorms and heavy rain but very strong winds were blowing; showers , a self-taught botanist, and three looked imminent. We welcomed Corina ticket-of-leave convicts, ‘three of the strongest Douglass, a friend of Merren Dargan, who was men in the colony, accustomed to live in the joining us for the first time and headed off on woods’ had spent twelve days battling their the Mt Banks Summit Track. We passed the way from North Richmond. On the second day Caley memorial stone which once held a of the expedition Caley set a compass line on bronze plaque detailing his journey but of Tree Fern Hill (Mt Tomah) which he was course that was stolen by some low life many determined to follow. Unfortunately this years ago. meant the party had to descend into and climb out of many deep valleys and ravines making The track initially climbs through what used to it a very tough journey. That is reflected in be a corridor of Banksia, Tea-tree, place names he ascribed: Dark Valley, Devils Drumsticks, Conesticks, Mountain Devil and Wilderness, Skeleton Rocks, Gaping Gill, other vegetation but the fire of last summer Dismal Dingle. put paid to that, we now walked past the burnt remnants of heath. Yet, as is the nature of the So, on Thursday 15th November 1804, Caley mountain flora, vibrant coloured new growth left his three now rather disgruntled sprouts from charred stumps and lignotubers; companions sheltering from the elements, and red, green, crimson, pink and gold emblems of climbed to the summit of the mount, which he renewed life. 2 Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group Initially we were protected to some extent My decision to wait here was the result of a from the wind but as we climbed onto the brain explosion on my part. I have been to the lower flanks of the mountain we were buffeted summit many times and the views have been by strong gusts. From this area we could look very limited because of the regrowth since the down onto the fire trail we would use on our line of sight trig station has become redundant. return journey and across to Mounts Charles, Of course I didn’t take into consideration the Bell and Tomah. Hidden among the ridges in recent fires did I; they have opened up the the foreground are the deep ravines and vistas from the summit as evidenced by a canyons which proved to be impassible photo Simon sent to me which he took from obstacles for Caley. The profile of Mount the vicinity of the cairn. Wilson sat on the skyline in the distance. The photo shows a clear vista of Blackheath Soon we arrived at a point where the track Walls stretching to , then skirted around the eastern side of a rocky across Govett Gorge to the cliff lines outcrop; a perfect place to pause for morning stretching from Du Faur Head past Lockley tea protected from the wind. A beautiful Pylon and Fortress Hill to Carne Wall and rainbow framed the view toward the Upper Griffith Taylor Wall at the head of Govett Grose Gorge from just above this outcrop. Gorge, with the wooded talus slopes leading down to the line of Govetts Creek. A Micheal Ihm distributed slices of his wife magnificent view indeed; sorry I missed it. Beth’s version of Libby’s Bushwalker Cake; moist and delicious, many thanks Beth. The trig point is known as King George, one thousand and sixty two metres above sea level. Allan and Jeanie, who had only intended This is in deference to the identity crisis accompanying us for a short distance, decided suffered by Mount Banks since European this would be a good point to depart as the settlement. It was initially known as Saddle weather began to close in, they set off back Hill when viewed from high points on the down the slope to return to their car. western fringe of the colony; Caley of course The timber steps along this track must have named it Mount Banks in 1804. Hamilton also been burnt in the fire for they have been Hume, when he discovered the route across beautifully refurbished. what is now known as The Causeway in 1827, As we climbed higher on the mountain flank named it Mount King George. Submissions we were exposed to stronger wind, forceful were made in the early 1900s to have the name enough to blow the proverbial dog off its changed back to Caley’s original but it was chain, and intermittent squally showers swept not until 1966 that it was officially reinstated. across the landscape. Soon there was a With the rest of the group back from the dramatic change to the vegetation as we summit we followed the footpad through lush moved from sandstone country to the richer ground ferns, recovered from the fire, around soils of the basalt cap. We moved out of to the eastern side of the mount where we heath-land into open woodland where the were protected from the winds; the skies by charred tree trunks were sprouting epicormic now were beginning to clear. Soon we were at shoots; the glossy new leaves a kaleidoscope the old picnic area site where there used to be of colour. remnants of a couple of wooden tables; all that We reached the point where there is a track remains now are charred stumps of their legs. junction; straight ahead leads a short distance The track then emerged onto a formed fire to the summit, to the left leads down to the fire trail, initially somewhat overgrown, which led trail to Banks Wall. I decided with two others us down to the fire trail that leads around to to wait here while the rest of the group carried Banks Wall. From here there are views across on to the large basalt cairn on the summit. to Mount Hay and the Butterbox. This track meanders through exposed open country yet 3 Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group dips down a few times into moist little gullies, Thor Head. On the near side of the gorge the passes a large termite mound and, unlike me, visible cliff line stretches past Walls Lookout, suddenly arrives at the cliff edge which is Rigby Hill and Liversidge Hill. Banks Wall. There are so many venues we have visited on Shortly after passing the termite mound my walks over the years in evidence from this knee felt like it had been white-anted so I cliff edge vantage point. decided to pause, have lunch and await the Banks Wall; the cliff directly below the group’s return. Simon, despite my group’s lunch spot, is the highest in the protestations that he should continue, kindly mountains. Four members of waited with me. Rockclimbers, Owen Llewellan, David Roots, I was pleased to see that the cloud cover had Russ Kippax and Enn Truupold were the first lifted and the mist had risen from the valley to to make a successful assault on the cliff face in give the group a clear view of what must be 1952. There is a photo, in Andy Macqueen’s one of the most magnificent panoramas in fabulous book Back from the Brink Blue Gum these mountains. I shall draw on my memory Forest and the Grose Wilderness (a must read and photographic records of previous visits to for anyone interested in bushwalking in, or the describe the commanding vista. history of, these mountains), of these four taken after their climb, sitting on the basalt Arriving at the cliff edge at Banks Wall sets rock cairn on the summit of Mount Banks. off an explosion of the senses; the grandeur of (Coincidentally, I briefly crossed paths with the scene before you is overwhelming. Enn Truupold when we both worked at The Straight ahead is the view up Govett Gorge Electricity Commission of NSW; had no idea bounded by glorious sandstone cliffs sitting then of his rockclimbing prowess.) atop the talus slopes. Govetts Leap Brook and Erosion and vegetation destruction caused by Govetts Creek converge at Junction Rock abseiling and climbing since that first climb forming a shallow vee in the wooded talus in has resulted in the National Parks and Wildlife front of Carne and Griffith Taylor Walls. Service removing all anchorages and the area Govetts Creek then meanders down the base has been closed to climbers since 1996. of the gorge past Pulpit Rock, Clarke Head and Docker Head on the right; Fortress Hill, Soon Simon and I could see tiny figures in Lockley Pylon and Du Faur Head on the left, brightly coloured coats on the fire trail across to converge with the at the iconic the gully; the group was returning from their almost directly below our visit to Banks Wall. All expressed their delight vantage point. It is a very different perspective with the panoramas they had viewed and that looking almost straight down on the Mountain the cloud cover and mist had cleared on cue. Blue Gums or Round-leaved Gums So we set off to follow the fire trail back to the (Eucalyptus denei), the giants of the Blue cars at Mount Banks Picnic Area. This route Gum Forest; especially when viewed through led us around the base of Mount Banks with a zoom lens. To see through the rather open views to the summit on our left and across to canopies to the huge towering straight white Mount Tomah and beyond on our right. trunks holding them aloft is indeed an Jagged rock outcrops and small cliff faces and enthralling aspect. caves on the flanks of the mount were more To the right is the Upper Grose Gorge through prominent following the fire. To the right which the Grose River wends its way from its there is usually an abundance of wattles, source near Mount Victoria. Across this gorge including the Sweet-scented Wattle (Acacia are the sheer cliffs of Blackheath Walls above suaveolens) and the Sunshine Wattle (Acacia Little Blue Gum while further west are the terminalis) but of course the fire made short cliffs of Burra Korain Ridge and Burra Korain work of them. Although, as is always the case Head and the cliffs below Asgard Head and 4 Mt Wilson Mt Irvine Bushwalking Group following fire and rain in these mountains, the Is it just me or do you also hear Libby’s bush is recovering well, unlike my knee. voice? So it was a slow journey, accompanied by OUR SEPTEMBER WALK Simon, Ray and Des, but I eventually made it th back to the cars where those in the group who FRIDAY 18 SEPTEMBER 2020 did not have other commitments were Historic Road with Valley Views and Chert awaiting my return, many thanks for that. Quarry So ended another day in the bush visiting one Berghofers Pass at Mt Victoria of the jewels in the crown of these mountains The group last visited this venue in April where we also experienced some of the many 2009. This is an easy relatively short walk moods they can deliver. Strong blustery winds down this 1907 road and return. and squally showers clearing to broken cloud and sunshine with a couple of rainbows Meet at the Lawsons Long Alley trackhead thrown in; the following day the snow arrived. parking area on Road about 1.3kms from the Great Western Highway at John Cardy Mt Victoria at 10.00am. Those wishing to Tailpiece: I thought you may like to read some car share from Mt Wilson meet at St selected passages that Libby wrote in her George’s Church for a 9.30am departure report of our July 2003 Mount Banks walk. Bring morning tea, lunch and plenty of “Mt Banks has always been a favourite walk water. for Mt Wilson folk; it was a mountain we Contact Helen and John Cardy on 9871 frequently climbed as children when it had the 3661 or on mobile 0400 444 966. rather grand name of Mount King George. ------In those days the fire trail and picnic FUTURE WALKS (Very Tentative ground did not exist. We would park our cars Schedule.) not far off the , walking th down a little track which led to the foot of the Fri 16 October – To be advised depending on mountain. I remember we used to climb extensive track closures due to fires and flood through at least one fence, a legacy from when the bullock teams were taken there to graze BUSH CARE during the winter when the grass was short on Bush Care is held on the second Friday of Mount Wilson. ------. each month from 9am to Noon. Any help, ---- When we were here as children the Trig even for a short time, would be appreciated. Station was in use and the vegetation on top of Friday 11th September – Wynne Reserve, the mountain was kept cleared away so one next to Church had a magnificent 360 degree view of the surrounding mountains and valleys. ------Friday 9th October – Wynne Reserve, next ---- As we sat at this lovely place eating our to Church lunch, we affirmed as we so often do how Mt Wilson contact Alice Simpson 0414 425 fortunate we are in this great country of ours, 511 or 4756 2110 with its beauty and freedom, so many wild and unspoilt places and a good climate to go with Council contact Tracy Abbas 0428 777 141 it all. ------There was plenty of time for afternoon tea, enjoying a birthday cake (for Libby) thoughtfully and kindly provided by Helen Cardy and Rosemary Knott.”