Western Ghats Endemics 2016
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Field Guides Tour Report Southern India: Western Ghats Endemics 2016 Nov 13, 2016 to Dec 3, 2016 Terry Stevenson with Sathyan Meppayur We saw at least a dozen gorgeous Crimson-backed Sunbirds at Cheekode Forest and Thattekkad. Photo by guide Sathyan Meppayur. Our small group experienced our Southern India tour's best weather ever -- perhaps five minutes of light drizzle during our boat ride to Alleppey, but otherwise not a drop of rain the whole tour! As usual, we followed our well-tried route, beginning in Bangalore and then passing through the forests and grasslands of Nagarhole and Mudumalai to the Western Ghats. Here, we stayed in the Nilgiri, Anamalai, and Cardamon hills, and then continued to the lowland forests around Thattekkad, The Backwaters, and finally to Kochi (Cochin) at the coast. Southern India is not well known to US birders, but read on and you'll see why, for anyone with an interest in world birding, this region really is a must! We began the first day by driving from Bangalore to Kokkare Bellur, where a colony of Spot-billed Pelicans breed right in the village. A nearby marshy area was great for Red-naped Ibis, and during a couple of hours at the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary, we saw large numbers of herons, egrets, and ibis, Eurasian Spoonbill, Great Thick-knee, Indian Gray Hornbill, Blue-tailed and Green bee-eaters, and Indian Paradise-Flycatcher. Driving to Nagarhole the following day was fabulous for waterbirds, with a series of small pools holding Lesser Whistling-Duck, Indian Spot-billed Duck, and Cotton Pygmy-goose. The newly split Black-backed Swamphen was common, and we saw at least ten Pheasant-tailed Jacanas. The migrant Gray-headed Lapwing is far rarer, but we had good close looks at two in flight. We then spent three nights at Nagarhole National Park, where we enjoyed not only numerous new birds, but also some big mammals, including Indian Flying-Fox, Indian Giant Flying Squirrel (a major highlight of the tour), Stripe-necked Mongoose, Indian Elephant (including a large bull that chased us), Wild Boar, Spotted Deer (1000+), and Sambar. Among the birding highlights were Indian Peafowl, Gray Junglefowl, super close Crested Serpent- Eagle, Green Imperial-Pigeon, Brown Fish-Owl, Malabar Pied-Hornbill, White-naped Woodpecker, Indian Pitta, Orange Minivet, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Malabar Lark, Indian Nuthatch, Forest Wagtail, and Red Avadavat. Continuing on, we met with our local expert guide Sathyan Meppayur, who immediately took us see to the localized endemic Tawny (Skyes's) Lark -- a great start. We next spent two nights at Jungle Hut, seeing such varied species as the endangered White-rumped Vulture (at least 32), Yellow-wattled Lapwing, Blue-faced Malkoha (a real group favorite), Malabar Parakeet, Spot-breasted Fantail, Jerdon's Bush-Lark, Indian Scimitar-Babbler, White- bellied Blue-Flycatcher, Indian Blue-Robin (a gorgeous male this year), and Malabar Whistling-Thrush. Leaving this area behind, we climbed the Nilgiri Hills -- the first of the mountain blocks we would visit; highlights here included Indian Swiftlet, Cinereous Tit, Tickell's Leaf-Warbler, Black-chinned Laughingthrush, Black-and-Rufous Flycatcher, and Indian Blackbird. Our next mountains were the Anamalai Hills, and for two days (with nights at Munnar), we explored the extensive forests at Chinnar, some smaller mountain "shola's", and the high grasslands at Eravikulam National Park. The birding was wonderful again, with just a sampling including Legge's Hawk-Eagle, Nilgiri Wood-Pigeon (a difficult endemic), Indian Tit, Kerala Laughingthrush, Nilgiri Flycatcher, White-bellied Shortwing (a real skulker that we all saw well), and Nilgiri Flowerpecker. Mammals in this area included Grizzled Giant Squirrel, Nilgiri Tahr, and the world's biggest bovine -- Gaur. Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 1 We then went to Periyar, where Nilgiri Langur and Dusky Palm Squirrel were new mammals, and birds included a low flying (chicken hunting) Black Eagle, Mountain Imperial-Pigeon, beautiful Malabar Trogons, massive Great Hornbills, Malabar Barbet, Rufous Woodpecker, Indian Golden Oriole, White-bellied Treepie (another group favorite), Rufous Babbler, Blue-throated Flycatcher, and Jerdon's Leafbird. Continuing on, we left the Cardamom Hills behind and descended to the Thattekkad area of lowland forests, small hills, grassy areas, and farmland. This is only the second time we included this area on the tour, but the birding and the friendly staff of the Bird Lagoon Hotel made for a great stay. A few of the new birds we saw in this area included Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo, Sri Lanka Frogmouth (6 this year, with some only 10 feet away), Jerdon's Nightjar, Great Eared-Nightjar (feeding just above our heads), Brown-backed Needletail, Blue-eared Kingfisher (uncommon in South India), Dollarbird, Flame-throated Bulbul, Dark-fronted Babbler, and Crimson-backed Sunbird. We finished our tour with a night at Coconut Lagoon, and a boat trip across The Backwaters to Alleppey and on to Kochi at the coast. The numbers of Little and Indian cormorants here were just staggering, and almost as impressive were the thousands of Northern Pintail and Glossy Ibis that passed over us in the evening. But, perhaps most memorable were Yellow Bittern, Watercock, an immature Slaty-breasted Rail, and Stork-billed Kingfisher right around our lodge -- though the trip on the traditional house boat and the prawn and fish lunch brings back fond memories too! -- Terry KEYS FOR THIS LIST One of the following keys may be shown in brackets for individual species as appropriate: * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic, N = nesting, a = austral migrant, b = boreal migrant BIRDS Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl) LESSER WHISTLINGDUCK (Dendrocygna javanica) – We saw about 60 at a variety of freshwater pools between Bangalore and Nagarhole. COTTON PYGMYGOOSE (Nettapus coromandelianus) – About a dozen on a couple of ponds with waterlilies in the Mysore area, and 7 at Coconut Lagoon. INDIAN SPOTBILLED DUCK (Anas poecilorhyncha) – At least 130 were seen between Mysore and Nagarhole, and 20+ at Coconut Lagoon. NORTHERN SHOVELER (Anas clypeata) – One on a small pool south of Nagarhole. NORTHERN PINTAIL (Anas acuta) – We saw a single male on a pond near Mysore, and then 'many thousands' flying in the evening over Coconut Lagoon. GARGANEY (Anas querquedula) – We saw a total of about 12 in the Mysore area, and 20 at Coconut Lagoon. GREENWINGED TEAL (EURASIAN) (Anas crecca crecca) – Six, on two different ponds in the Mysore area. Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies) INDIAN PEAFOWL (Pavo cristatus) – Widespread in small numbers in a variety of open country, including farmland. RED SPURFOWL (Galloperdix spadicea) – Heard near Bird Lagoon. JUNGLE BUSHQUAIL (Perdicula asiatica) – Five flushed from under our feet at Mudumalai. GRAY FRANCOLIN (Francolinus pondicerianus) – One at Nagarhole, and 1 at Mudumalai. GRAY JUNGLEFOWL (Gallus sonneratii) – Great looks at this attractive species at Nagarhole (40+), the Jungle Hut area (6), Periyar(1), and Thattekkad (40). [E] Podicipedidae (Grebes) LITTLE GREBE (Tachybaptus ruficollis) – About 70 between Bangalore and Nagarhole, and 1 at Coconut Lagoon. Ciconiidae (Storks) ASIAN OPENBILL (Anastomus oscitans) – Four in the Kokkare Bellur to Mysore area, 3 at Bird Lagoon, and 5 from the boat on the way to Alleppey. WOOLLYNECKED STORK (Ciconia episcopus) – Three at Nagarhole, and 2 at Periyar. PAINTED STORK (Mycteria leucocephala) – We saw about 80 of these attractive storks between Kokkare Bellur and Nagarhole, and 5 from the boat near Alleppey. Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags) LITTLE CORMORANT (Microcarbo niger) – Common on freshwater wetlands throughout the tour, and many many thousands at The Backwaters. GREAT CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax carbo) – About 50 between Ranganathittu and Nagarhole, and about a dozen at Coconut Lagoon. INDIAN CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax fuscicollis) – Great looks, including many birds in breeding plumage at The Backwaters. Anhingidae (Anhingas) ORIENTAL DARTER (Anhinga melanogaster) – Small numbers on a variety of widespread freshwater lakes and pools; in all we saw about 40. Pelecanidae (Pelicans) SPOTBILLED PELICAN (Pelecanus philippensis) – Great looks at the colony at Kokkare Bellur, a couple of hundred at the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary, and 8 at Kokkorahally. Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns) YELLOW BITTERN (Ixobrychus sinensis) – Four at Coconut Lagoon were more than usual nice looks too! GRAY HERON (Ardea cinerea) – Widespread in small numbers, with a total of about 20. PURPLE HERON (Ardea purpurea) – Five in the Mysore area, and 6 at Coconut Lagoon. GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba) – Widespread on wetlands throughout the tour. INTERMEDIATE EGRET (Mesophoyx intermedia) – Very common and widespread on wetlands throughout the tour. Field Guides Birding Tours • www.fieldguides.com • 800-728-4953 2 LITTLE EGRET (Egretta garzetta) – Common and widespread. WESTERN REEFHERON (Egretta gularis) – One at Kabini River Lodge was quite unusual for that area, and we then saw several along the seafront at Kochi. CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis) – Very common and widespread throughout the tour. INDIAN PONDHERON (Ardeola grayii) – Very common and widespread throughout the tour. STRIATED HERON (Butorides striata) – One along the river at the Cheekode Forest. Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills) GLOSSY IBIS (Plegadis falcinellus) – About 10 at Kokkorahally in Mysore, and 500+ at Coconut Lagoon.