Ledene a Saxon Estate

YLn Investigation of the Leacfon o/a[e ancf tfte !forest of f})ean

Jt[an Sfie[[ey

Highleadon History Series Volume 6 Preface

Harold Godwinson is King

Edward the Atheling1 defended his home, land and people, until suddenly came death and bitter, and took the dear one, the atheling from the earth; the angels accompanied him, his soul strong in truth, into the sky's light. The wise one therefore committed the kingdom to one high in rank, Harold himself, noble earl, who at all times faithfully obeyed his lord in words and deeds, holding back nothing 2 at the need of the king of the people •

The Anglo-Saxon Chronicle

This is the sixth volume in a series of information about the history of Highleadon 3 and its surrounds • It forms a part of a progressive research. This information was gathered during September 2004

© Alan Shelley BA DLA FSTD FRSA, Wycken End , Sept. 2004

1 son of Ethelred (Atheling, meaning birthright to the throne) 2 See table of the 'English' kings at the rear of this composition. 3 It is worthy of note that when Edward had set up his court in 1051 at Kingsholm, had become an area of great desire to Godwin, and Harold in particular, as they collected more land and greater powers over the dominiom. Contents

Chapter Page i. Introduction i. 1. Ledene (background, argument & debate) 1. 2. Summary 4. 3. Investigation of Ledene an Anglo-Saxon estate 5.

APPENDICES

4. Anglo-Saxon Gloucestershire 10. 5. NOTES 12. 6. Conclusion 13.

ILLUSTRATIONS

i. Upleadon 14. ii. The Church at Upleadon 15. iii. 'Middleton', Upleadon 16. iv. Relics at Highleadon 17. MAP1. 'The Forest' at Domesday 18. MAP II. Dean Forest, 1228 and 1282 19. TABLE Kings of and , before 1066 20.

POSTSCRIPTS

1P. The 21. 2P. The Influence of Danish & Norman Dominion 31. 3P. William Fitz-Norman's Castle at Taynton 33. MAPA The of Taynton 35. MAPB. The Old Village and Castle Grounds 36. MAP C. Taynton Tithe Map of 1840 37. Introduction

This pamphlet is a compilation of notes intending to explore the origins of the rustic hamlet named Highleadon and to discover its relationship with the Leadon Vale. The investigation has also led me to consider the possibility that the name Ledene may have influenced the title of the 'Forest' that was later officially named the ''.

The Anglo- did much to shape our present English landscape. Roman roads and ancient trackways provided the rudiments of the infrastructure adopted, and developed upon, by the Saxons. Our language has been developed from Anglo-Saxon origins. The majority of our towns and were originated and named during that period. Unfortunately, only very few written documents survive to describe the Leadon Vale, of those times. However, the Saxons employed a simple method of naming places, that provide us with a lasting descriptive meaning.

Macro-etymology* of place names allows us to look back at the original meaning of these names. A title given to a settlement or estate would often represent features of its location. An example is with names ending in 'ton', these are mostly based on the Saxon word tun meaning farmstead. Often the prefix is representative of the founding owner or leader. Sometimes the name concludes with ... ing and this gives meaning to 'the people of' (a place or leader) e.g. Reading. Names ending ... ington would refer to the 'tun of the people of ... '.

The word 'dene' is accepted as an old English word for valley. It is descended from denu, the Anglo-Saxon word for dene or dean. Where the word 'dean' is applied to the Church, it has a different origin. Derived from the Latin decanus meaning a 'monk set over ten other monks'. Dean has been applied, in modern times, to 'Deaneries' of anywhere from six to sixty parishes as an administrative overhead. Finally the word should not be confused with the origins of 'don' which was given to refer to a hill fort.

It is true to say that little importance was given, by the Saxons, to forested areas. They were more inclined to live outside, or to remove most of the woodland and adapt the land for agriculture. The Saxon population of the Leadon Vale, never highly populated, would have become considerably reduced by famine, prevalent in the early eleventh century, and by the results of bitter dynastic competition. As little recorded information exists of the area, for the period before Domesday, some opinions/ conclusions may rely upon conjecture.

In 1066, following the death of King Edward and the dynastic battles at Fulford Gate, Stamford Bridge and finally at Hastings resulted in the Norman Conquest and a change of government over England that had a direct affect upon the people of the Severn Vale. Thegns of the Severn and the Leadon Vales would have by Saxon tradition have joined their Earls, Edwin of and his brother Morcar at Fulford Gate where large numbers were destroyed. Most of their lands were eventually confiscated by the Normans, including those of the Leadon Vale. The outcome, undoubtedly, forced immediate changes, if not the complete destruction, of their Saxon estates.

After the Conquest, the agricultural lands of the Leadon Vale were granted, in the main, to the monastery at and remained 'church property' for more than four-hundred years. When the lands were distributed, following the Dissolution in 1541, the manors and estates took on a new independence that may have hidden, or modified our suppositions with regard to an earlier history of the Leadon Vale. Concentration, during the , was directed upon the new town of , that dominates the Vale today.

*Breakdown of word formation (an account of sense-development).

1 Ledene

About five and a half miles north-west of Gloucester are the rural communities of Upleadon and Highleadon. They are in the valley of the river Leadon and from which they have been widely assumed to have gained their titles. Such assumptions would be wrong!

Today, Upleadon is a broadly scattered village and the adjacent Highleadon is a small hamlet attributed to the parish of Rudford.

In Saxon times, there existed an estate known as Ledene, which included these settlements. By the time of the Domesday survey, some eighteen years after the Norman Conquest, the old estate had been broken up and mostly transferred to the property of the monastery of St Peter's at Gloucester.

It will be the purpose of this dissertation to bring to life the origins of the manor, and its wider estate, in Saxon times. This also leads one to speculate over its possible importance and influence on the surrounding area. As very little is known of the occupants and their administration during the Saxon period, much may be conjecture, based upon subsequent historical facts, references and potential connections.

Before examining the evidence, it will be necessary to remind ourselves of the period, its historical background and the landscape of those early times.

The nearby city of Gloucester had been established by the Romans and was among the four principal (and garrison) towns of England. The immediate locality was inhabited by the Celtic British tribe of the . These were people who had developed, initially from the red haired tribes of Swiss and German origins and later intermixed with the Belgic invaders during the first century BC. It was a loosely unified kingdom (ruled by the Romans) stretching from northern to the southern half of and including the whole of Gloucestershire east of the Severn.

To the west of the Severn was forest, all the way up to Hereford. The woodland was steadily denser toward the area now the heart of the Forest of Dean. A tribe of British Celts known as the Silures, who were hardy hill-men, had settled into Wales and parts of the Forest. It is important to remember that the forest had no specific title until several centuries later. The Silures were of a hostile nature, [unlike the Dobunni] they fought the Romans and were not inclined towards domestic harmony.

Iron being mined from the Forest, formed an important part of the local economy and paid the taxes for the city of Gloucester. The Forest was generally an inhospitable place and also harboured fugitives, small bands of immigrants and outlaws. The Silures were eventually quelled when Caradoc, their leader was defeated in a skirmish in AD 50. A few wealthy Romans cleared areas of the forest and established villa estates. During the Roman period, was established in England and became largely understood by the majority.

Following the end of the Roman civilisation in around 450 AD, the villas and towns fell into decay. A steady influx of Saxons had been arriving and moving across the country. They came from Angeln, Denmark, Jutland, northern Germany and Fresia. The Romans had dubbed them all with the title of Saxon. They were of a common ancestry and strongly influenced the eventual culture of Britain. The current thinking of historians is that they were less an invading force and more of an immigrating people that assimilated with the indigenous British who by intermarriage and association became, in time, a Saxon society. It seems that Saxon leaders commanded strengths that opposed typical British tribal resentments.

In 577, a force of West Saxons killed three British kings in a battle at Dyrham and formally took over the control of Gloucester, and Bath. The region then became a part of

1 the Kingdom of Mercia and the locality was peopled by a Saxon dominated tribe called the . The Saxon Hwicce were god-fearing Christians who built many small churches, convents and monasteries. They brought with them many skills and crafts. They were particularly adept at agriculture and preferred to settle, at intervals, along the small streams. Here they could access the water and built com mills for each community. They cleared areas of woodland north and east of the Forest for agriculture. The native Dobunni simulated with the settlers while many also laboured as serfs.

Later, when King Edmund, surnamed Ironside, was vanquished from by Knute (Canute the Dane) he fled to Gloucester. In a confrontational battle to determine the Kingdom, he reputedly, challenged Canute to single combat, at the isle of Alney (nr Gloucester), while the troops looked on. As neither was victorious, [it is unlikely that they actually fought] they agreed to divide the Kingdom until Edmund's demise, when the monarchy would pass to Canute.

A little later, when King Edward the Confessor ruled England, witans [councils] of the nobles were regularly assembled at Gloucester. His most powerful and influential Earl was Godwin, Lord of Wessex who, with his son Harold [Edward's brother-in-law] virtually ran the government of the country. In order to keep this discussion short let it suffice to say the King fell out with Godwin and Harold when disagreement turned to disobedience. Their lands were confiscated but they both escaped to relatives in Belgium. They were later repatriated and again given full powers. However, Edward in the meantime had more or less promised the throne to William of Normandy.

The battle in 1066 between King Harold and William of Normandy was less a battle between two countries and more of one fought for dynastic control. William and Harold were not so different as history may have you believe. Earls and foreign lords were often related by intermarriage, they met in each others countries or states and were familiar in each other's ways. They shared a common ancestry and mostly communicated quite freely in a similar tongue. William was a Norseman (this is where Normandy gains its title) he was part Saxon and part Dane, descended from similar stock as Harold.

To enforce his claim to the English throne William had gathered noblemen and mercenaries from various Norman and Frankish sources. These were young adventurers and entrepreneurs who were seeking their fortunes in landed property. With the death of at the , his valiant thegns and tribesmen who, by custom fought to their deaths, even beyond the death of their Lord. The rural estates were without management.

The real effect of the Norman invasion was the reorganisation of the manors. In most cases affecting the Gloucester and Leadon vales, the lands were formally granted to the reformed Abbey of StPeter's, Gloucester. After the fighting of the battles at Fulford, Stamford Bridge and then at Hastings, the able men of Gloucestershire had been decimated. Saxon villages, even those considered large with around ten homesteads, were left with only dependent women, children, old folk and serfs with little organisational skills. Many of these settlements would have fairly quickly decayed and been abandoned.

Clearly the above events would go to explain the very few signs remaining of a long extinct Saxon village settlement at Upleadon, where only the foundations of an early Saxon church still remain. With this background knowledge here are some relevant facts concerning the identity of the Saxon estate formerly 'Ledene'. Le Dene 'small vale' being clearly given to describe the terrain of that landscape. The Llanthony Chronicle implies that Henry 1 gave the Lacy family the 'Forest of Dene'. This may well be exaggerated when compared with the area of the Forest as it is known today. However, the Lacys clearly had influence over a large part of it.

In reward for his endeavours during the conquest of England and particularly with quelling Welsh skirmishes along the marches with Wales, William awarded Walter de Lacy with

2 many manors in and much of Gloucestershire, including a great part of the Forest. Walter de Lacy became very active in matters concerning the Church, perhaps to absolve his previous soldiering activities. He gave several estates including the manor of Ledene to the monastery at Gloucester. This was done shortly after the Conquest and long before the Domesday survey. He also presented the monastery with his young son, also named Walter, who later became Abbot. Walter de Lacy was devout, and a founder of Norman churches with religeous governance over the people. He died in 1085 after falling from scaffolding of St Guthlac church, Hereford, where he had been supervising the building.

At Domesday the separate manor of Upleadon, then described as Ledene, is recorded as within the hundred of Botelawes [Botloe] and being in the possession of StPeter's at Gloucester. There were then, (within the manor) four hides [say 500 acres] and in demesne were two plough-tillages. At that time there were eight villeins and one border, with eight plough-tillages. There were four servi and a mill of 4s and ten acres of meadow. A wood is recorded as being two leagues? in length [6 miles?] and two furlongs broad. The whole being quoted to be worth 'scarcely 30 sol'. (Domesday page 71)

Hyneledene was the name formerly given to the hamlet we now call Highleadon. The term 'Hyne' or Higna gave meaning in old English to a religious household or community . The same original meaning was given to 'Highnam' another village close by.

We can therefore interpret the hamlet of Hyneledene as being within the estate of Ledene and therefore Hyneledene. This title continues to be given in documents well beyond the dissolution of the monasteries, after 1541. The overlordship of all of the adjacent manors including Ledene and what are now called Hartpury, Rudford, Lassington and Highnam were to remain in the hands of successive Abbots of Gloucester for around four hundred years.

An 'agreement' in 1285 by the Abbot and the Convent of Gloucester was made in return for the grant of a tenement in Hyneledene, to retain in their service William de la Forde, and provide him with a maintenance suitable to his office and give him when unable to work one white loaf and a gallon of the second beer and one dish with 'trimmings' from the kitchen daily, and half a mark yearly for dress, also a quarter of corn yearly to his sister Matilda, daughter of Petronilla. William's maintenance is subject to his good behaviour, but Petronilla's (which she is to have at the times the servants at Hyneledene receive their corn) is to be independent of this. Seale of William de la Forde. Thursday before Feaste of St Gregory, 13 Edward 1 [1285] ( & Gloucester Archives)

What if the Saxon estate that existed even before Godwin, had been an estate called Ledene that included an area from (the ancient burgh) to the north, and bounded to the east with the river Leadon, including the old Hartpury1 and Lassington settlements, down to Highnam. To the west, it may have stretched to what is now and included within its domain the settlements at Tibberton, Taynton and Huntley. It is known that in the Saxon period, three thegns were accountable for the protection of the 'Forest' of Le Dene.

Cyril Hart the recognised Forest of Dean historian, has always maintained that the 'Forest of Dean' was a title for the area given later in the thirteenth century. References had been made to Dene and to St Briavels. A very small settlement existed in the area we now know as the town of Mitcheldean. In early times it was referred to as Dene, and later it became Dean Magna (as opposed to the nearby Dean Parva or Little Dean). The ancient parish covered only 627 acres and was irregular in shape with a detached part to the west at Blackwell meadows. To the west was the extraparochial Forest. Thirty-eight inhabitants

1 Hartpury had been given by Offa, King of Mercia, to the Abbey of Gloucester in about 760 AD when Eva was abbess and the church was a nurmery before converting to a monastery. The Benedictines were granted the manor in about 1022 AD.

3 of the settlement referred to as 'Dene' were recorded in 1086, and only twenty-five inhabitants of 'Mitcheldean and Abenhall were assessed for tax in 1327.

The Victoria History of Gloucestershire Vol V (1996) refers to Mitcheldean as 'presumably

in those lands called Dean totalling 2 hides and 2.5 yardlands exempted by Edward the Confessor from payment of geld in return for guarding of the Forest of Dean and held in 1066 by the thegns Godric, Elric and Ernu( and in 1086 by William son of Norman. William's estate seems to have passed to his son Hugh (fl. 1130) and later to Miles of Gloucester (d. 1143) and his son Roger, earl of Hereford, from whom William of Dean held an estate and an office in the Forest for 20s rent. That estate became known as the manor of Dean or Mitcheldean and the office was probably the woodwardship of the later bailiwick of Mitcheldean. William was described as the king's forester and his son Geof!Jey of Dean held the bailiwick in 1199*.'

2 In the above volume is an account of 1086 that "William son of Norman , whose estate in Dean had increased in value from 33s. in 1066 to 44s, had 3 ploughteams in demesne there and his tenants, of whom three owed a total rent of 8s, were 38 bordars sharing 7.5 teams. The estate is presumed to have included Mitcheldean, Abenhall and Littledean".

Dugdale's Monasticon3 Vol1 page 548 advises us that, In the year 1239, Richard de Wigmore gave to the Abbey of St Peter, Gloucester, his "lands in Hyneledene and one , with the 4 groves, pastures, meadows and all appurtenances which *Geoffrey de le Dene did enjoy" •

Summary

It is my proposition that a large Saxon Estate existed outside of the Forest as we know it today, that was centred on the Leadon Vale and from which vale it gained its name. The ancient word Denu (meaning a small vale and later corrupted to Dene) would have been given to the Leadon Vale. This describes a territory of 'the vale' within the larger Severn Vale. It may have also been used to differentiate the 'Forest area' from the Gloucester and the Berkeley Vales.

The estate was governed by three thegns, under the authority of the lord of the Hwicce, and their duties included the 'protection of the Forest'. The estate was primarily an agricultural area, comprising several small hamlets and with responsibilities that included the noble sport of hunting in the appending forest.

I consider it quite likely that the Forest would have been referred to as the forest of 'Ledene' and likewise the adjacent river would have gained its title as the river of 'Ledene'. This word (for the river) has subsequently been corrupted from Leden to Leddon and then to Leadon. In much the same way, the villages now Upleadon and Highleadon are corruption's from their original Upper Ledene and Hyneledene.

Following the destruction in 1066, of the thegns and their governance over the estate - the lands were bequeathed to the Abbey at Gloucester. Management (outside of the Forest) remained in the hands of the Church for the next four to five hundred years when, at the 'Dissolution', the property was politically distributed and sold-of£ to favoured entrepreneurs. As simply agricultural land, any prior importance of the estate has been lost in the mists of time.

2 Domesday records William (fitzNorman) as being in possession of Taynton [Wulfgar held it of King Edward]. This ties-in with his being over-lord of the Leadon Vale [much being farmed by the monastery]. 3 The Latin records of the Abbey and its property. 4 Clearly this was Geoffrey of Dene (son of William, the King's forester) who previously held the bailiwick of the forest in 1199. We have here, a direct connection with the estate named Dean (now Mitcheldean) and Ledene (now Upleadon and Highleadon).

4 Investigation of 'Ledene' an Anglo-Saxon Estate

It is possible that the Saxon estate known as 'Ledene' and to have included Upleadon and Highleadon before the Norman Conquest, was of significant importance to the local area. This importance may particularly apply to the relationship of the Forest of Dean (Dene) and to the river Leadon (Leden) An investigation of the following information may provide sufficient facts to support such arguments.

To study the Anglo-Saxon background of western Gloucestershire I have gathered the collective views of several leading authorities. These include FM Stenton for the broader background, HPR Finberg for his recognised knowledge of Anglo-Saxon Gloucestershire and particularly the history of the landscape. C E Hart is widely recognised as the historian of the 'Forest of Dean'. The Victorian History series and the Bristol and Gloucester Archaeological Studies have provided some detail as has Dugdale's Monasticon (records of the church lands). Various agrarian studies have been considered including those in the Economic History series covering West Gloucestershire. Considerable post­ Saxon information regarding the estate has been obtained from the Gloucester Records Office.

Geographically: We may accept that the Wye rather than the Severn historically bounded England and Wales. Offa's Dyke, built by the Mercian King Offa in about 785 from North to South Wales divided the two peoples. The Severn has been the great geographical and tidal divide. Its valley is bounded on the east by the limestone escarpment of the and in the west by the Old Red Sandstone of Herefordshire.

The (OE meaning bare hills) dominate the north-eastern side. Isolated between the two rivers, and contained below the Malverns is the steadily thickening wooded area known today as the Forest of Dean. In the fourteenth century "Dean" and "St Briavels" were both officially used names of the forest; "Dean" however, prevailed in later usage. The forest is not referred to by name in Domesday, but we are aware of three Saxons who "held the manor of Dene for the guarding of the forest"4

The district of the estate known as 'Ledene' is the Leadon valley, which is bounded on its west by the eastern rim of the Forest of Dean1and the Severn above Gloucester to the east. The little river Leadon flows from the hills near Ledbury in the north-west to join the Severn in the south near Gloucester, at Over Bridge. The valley area retains many topographic relics of yester-years, in the frequency of Greens, such as Botloe's Green, Brand Green, Compton Green, 's Green and Knight's Green to name but a few. Several small woods remain and notably Newent and Dymock Woods are of significant proportions.

Early settlements relating to the valley area are those of Dymock in the north, including Pauntley, the cross-roads town of Newent, and Huntley, Taynton, Upleadon, Highleadon, Rudford, Tibberton, Ashleworth, Hartpury, Lassington and Highnam.

In the thirteenth century, when the forest was divided into bailiwicks Gurisdiction of a bailiff) one of them was known by the name of Dean. It was of a peculiar narrow shape that emanated from Dean Magna (Mitcheldean). [Littledean came into being around 1220]. This suggests that Dean (or Dene) was primarily the territory north-east of the forest and that

4 (1964) Rev FW Potto Hicks The History of the Forest of Dean Forest (Forest Park Guide) HMSO

5 the governance of the south and west of the forest was later designated St Briavels. The castle at St Briavels would have been erected (by the Normans) to protect the Wye river border against the Celtic Welsh.

Regionally: We should remind ourselves that the Romans had established a garrison town at Gloucester that developed into an important city. A few members of that hierarchy chose to build small 'villa' estates within cleared areas of the nearby forest. It is known that the incoming Saxons chose the more open and fertile areas to form their settlements. The north-eastern region was considered a more accommodating area, with attractive surroundings, suitable streams for drinking water, corn mills and links with established elementary road systems.

Security and settlement: It is a fact that the Romans will have cleared much of the forest in places to prevent ambush or surprise attacks. They will have cleared sites for iron, charcoal and for agricultural purposes. Hence we find cleared areas of the forest created in ancient times. It is also a fact that normally human-beings found forests to be of a hostile environment to live in. It would be common place to harbour initially, the remaining aggressive tribal Celtic Silures, refugees from the law and immigrants of various origins.

Following the exodus of the Romans, people occupied the Roman properties until such time that they fell into disrepair when they abandoned them. The Saxon and indigenous English may then have preferred to live in the more open vales of Gloucester, Berkeley and the Leadon. This was the territory of the Saxon tribe known as the Hwicce and part of the kingdom of Mercia. Christianity had an early influence and Osric, a chieftain of the Hwicce founded the original monastery of StPeter at Gloucester in AD 681. It will become clear later, how the Hwicce connection with the Battle of Hastings may have affected the future of 'Ledene'.

Topographically: The Saxons changed the face of Gloucestershire by felling trees that had covered much of its surface since early pre-historic times. Saxons preferred deep meadow to hill-pasture. They settled along the streams where there was water for drinking and for powering their corn-mills. Their manors formed the nuclei for the later villages. Many of the village names retain their Saxon origins- those ending 'ham', 'ton' and 'ley'. Of particular interest are those ending "ley" as this gives meaning to 'enclosed clearing or meadow' and is a reference to the tracts won from the surrounding woods. Several local examples being Bulley, , Huntley, and Pauntley. As the settlements grew larger and the woodland reduced, cultivated areas merged and large tracts of common arable and pasture fields came into being.

To establish the probable location of an administrative settlement it should be remembered that Ledene is positioned on a very ancient route between the city of Gloucester and the Marches. Little information remains to establish the pre-Conquest population of the vale of Leadon. We are aware that Dymock had, in ancient times, been a prosperous town but that by 1317 it was reduced to a village. It is likely to have been a Roman fortified settlement, adopted by the Saxons as an administrative burghal post, in the control of the northern vale and the forested area. Newent grew in status during the later Norman period, to replace the importance previously attributed to Dymock.

6 Clearly a Roman road connected Dymock with Shrewsbury and the Marches with Wales. This directly aligns and connects the route via Newent (the ancient cross-road) to Highnam and Gloucester passing the Ledene estate enroute. In Saxon times this was a much used Drover's road to the Gloucester market. Dymock's importance had been considerable. So also was the monastic influence of Hereford and Worcester in providing moral guidance over northern Gloucestershire.

If we consider the early importance of a Roman town at Dymock, we may identify an area distinct in relation with the largely forested area of this region. It is my theory that the area was considered as the 'lesser vale' (of the great Severn countryside) eg 'the Dene'. The forest was becoming a specific region and the Leadon vale- 'the Dene'. Estates, small towns and villages would have been identified by personal or locative titles. The river therefore, may have been identified as the 'river of le dene'. This would have been known colloquially as the Leden (Leadon). The village settlements alongside the river were governed by the Hwicce and they would have practised their customs and traditions. These Hwicce practices, customs and relationships may account for the subsequent rapid decline in any importance of the area after the Norman Conquest.

The Saxons had retained the densely wooded forest of west Gloucestershire, with the exception of a narrow pastoral fringe running round from Dymock to Tidenham. It is worthy of note that at Domesday with a county population of 8,230, only 661lived west of the Severn.6 Near the beginning of the eleventh century when Canute was king, he had ordained, at a court at Winchester, that the tract of forest in west Gloucestershire should become "the kings hunting ground" and so began the 'Royal Forest of Dean' that remains' Crown property today. It was also Canute that redesignated the monastery at Gloucester to the Benedictine order.7 The monastery later became the major landowner and influence over much of Gloucestershire.

The words Le (the) and Dene (from the old English Denu )may, in old English, describe the estate of 'the vale.'. We have recorded evidence of such a Saxon estate existing before the Norman Conquest and that the present day villages of Upleadon and Highleadon were within that estate. It is known that King awarded Walter de Lacy with many estates including a large portion of the forest (of Dean). Before the Domesday recording Walter de Lacy had given much of his lands including Ledene to the monastery at Gloucester. For the purposes of this dissertation it is not difficult to put up a potential reason why the estate (in reduced form) had lost its former importance.

Post Conquest: Earl Harold Godwinson was final lord of Wessex and as such he could expect all of his thegns (tribesmen) and their able bodied underlings to support him in any battle 'to the death'. In his 'dynastic' battle for leadership he had been crowned King of the English. It is little understood that William (part Saxon and Viking) was as much entitled to the throne, through his family relationships with King Edward. However, at Hastings Harold, who would have been protected by his retinue, was killed, and his faithful men would have fought-on, even until they were mostly destroyed.

6 Ryder TA (1966) Portrait ofGloucestershire Robert Hale, London 7 A see of Worcester was founded in 680 that had spiritual jurisdiction over the whole principality of the Hwicce. The bishopric acquired many landed endowments in Gloucestershire. The benefactors of St Peter's at Gloucester (founded by Osric in 681 included 120 hides in Wessex, Dorset and the extremities of the Mercian shires. The monastery appears to have become derelict after 767 and re-founded c.824.

7 Saxon villages that had existed at Hartpury, Upleadon etc., would have become depopulated after a very short while. The new (Norman) lords would have effected changes that account for the disappearance of the early settlements and their replacement under the feudal system that followed. Most of the land was given over to the Church.

From The Cambridge Economic History of Europe (1966) Vol 1 The Agrarian Life of the Middle Ages 2nd Ed by M Postan, page 37 re 'settlement' before the Norman era. "In Britain, east of the Welsh border beyond which the natives retained their independence, the small political groups which emerged from the Anglo-Saxon conquest established frontiers against one another. In each of them, and in each of the folk or provinces into which they were divided, there were from the first, leading families with large property and ordinary tribesmen who reproduced the small German villages. Places lying close together whose names are compounded with the same personal name indicate large properties of early date."8

Occasionally a compact stretch of property, which was only gradually filled with settlements in the course of the Middle Ages, points to a similar primitive assignment of land, of the sort that led to disputes among the genealogiae of the 9 Alemanni. But on the other side stands the evidence of c 42 of Ine's Wessex law - every ceorl who has a share in arable and meadow, and sends cattle to the common pasture, must lend a hand in fencing the corn and hay to keep the cattle out. It is a freeman's village with no lord.

The Anglo-Saxons were wary of settling too close to the ever-restless Welsh border. Elsewhere hamlets of the British rarely survived, and only in regions which the Saxons did not prize such as hilly or marshy land. Fields made up of rough rectangles gave way to the long strips of the open-field. It was in the lower country where this predominated. (Ibid p.37 )

Waste lands were by no means the automatic right of communes. Designated areas of waste, unsuitable for arable were used for common pasture but privileged proprietors had certain 'rights' to large wastes and forests. The king above all had rights of royal ownership over woodlands.

To consider the likelihood of an estate centred on Ledene, one may look at Berkeley, the only remaining local estate that endured the post Norman Conquest. From the records of Domesday only a few places were showing signs of the chaos of the past twenty years. The king owned the great manor of Berkeley which Roger de Berkeley held. Under the Hwicce the estate was centred on the Abbey of Berkeley and 12,000 acres were held by StPeter's at Gloucester. The central demesne covered the modern parishes of Berkeley and Stone where Roger had his manor house. A town developed, in time, around the market place above the harbour at Berkeley Pill. The other estates, mainly spread along the fertile valley and slopes above, included Almondsbury, , Ashelworth, Beverstone, Cam, Crornhall, , Hill, Horfield, Kingscote, Kingsweston, , Ozleworth and Slirnbridge. These estates survived intact under the protection of the king. The were one of the very few Saxon nobilities to retain any status during the Norman

8 · This final comment may account for why so many 'Drews' farms are established around the locality. 9 The law of Ine of Wessex is dated circa AD 700.

8 period. We must assume that there were no 'blood' affiliations to Harold Godwinson or to the Hwicce tribe.

Cyril Hart in his book on the boundaries of the Forest of Dean9 concludes that the Forest at Domesday included at least the area of the present day. There was no mention of cultivation within the area. He believed the Forest extended into Herefordshire and that the wood of Ross was included. This was not the case later in 1300 when jurors denied that any part of Herefordshire was in the Forest before 1154. Staunton however, was in the Forest, and that relates directly with my view that the nobles using the Malvern Chase and the de Clare's Tewkesbury (Corse Lawn chase) made for a huge continuous and very popular hunting territory.

It is suggested that the Forest extended east of a line from Huntley to Newnham although Domesday gives no proof of this. This applied to the natural forest. A large area of woodland was on the outer broken fringe. In the old Botloe hundred, Dymock contained 3630 acres of woodland, Bromesberrow 2420 acres, Upleadon 396 acres, Tibberton 3630 acres and Huntley 2420 acres. Hart suggests that most of this woodland must have been outside of the limits of those manors. At Tatinton (Taynton) a virgate of land lay 'in the forest' (not necessarily The Forest). 150 years after Domesday, the official Forest was extended to the Severn on the south and south-east, Gloucester on the east and Newent on the north.

An excellent description of the north-western boundary is given in the following document:

Perambulation of the Forest of Dean in co. Gloucester made on Sunday next after the feast of the Accension of our Lord 28th year of king Edward [1300] by the view of [names given] etc. who say that the metes and bounds of the same Forest now used begin at the bridge called Ledenebrugg (Leadon Bridge) outside the town of Gloucester to the vill of Newent as far as the bridge called Elbrugge (Ell Bridge) and thence from that bridge as far as a certain place called Gorsteleyesford and thence following the metes and bounds between cos. Gloucs. and Hereford as far as a certain place where a brook called Bislwppesbrok which falls into the Weye (Wye) and thence descending by the same river as far as a certain place called futelynde. And from this place descending by a certain footpath which is the bound between cos. Glouc. and Hereford as far as the said river, by the middle of that river as far as a certain footpath called Alvinepathe and thence by that footpath on the left side as far as the fields of the vill of Stantone (Staunton) inclosing the whole of the said vill with fields as far as a certain place called Stantonesgate and thence from that place by a certain place called Brodestone and thus from that place descending to a certain brook called Threbrok which descends into the said river of Weye and thus descending by the middle of the said river to a certain brook called Brockweresbrok. And thus ascending from this brook as far as the Chase of the Earl Marshall of Strigoil and thus proceeding by the said chase as far as a certain place called Le Strayte and thus thence descending to a certain brook called Smalebrok and thence descending to a certain watercourse called Cone. Thence descending by a watercourse as far as the river of Severne. And thus ascending by the same river as far as the bridge called Ledenebrugge without the town of Gloucester where the metes and bounds began.

9 Hart CE (1947) The Extent and Boundaries of the Forest of Dean pub! by the author nr Coleford, Glos

9 APPENDIX

Anglo Saxon Gloucestershire

Angles and Frisians shared a common language. Saxons and Jutes also shared these common origins. The Romans grouped them all as 'Saxons'.

Roman Britain remained fairly ordered by Roman law until c 500. NB. German settlements were existing throughout England. Insurgents including the barbarian Picts and Scots were causing disruption to British rule. This led to a failed request for assistance from Aetius the Roman consul commanding troops in Gaul. A later series of raids and minor civil war led to the British 'tyrant' (Vortigern?) introducing Saxon mercenaries for defence of the land. (EM Stenton 1971 Oxford) A dispute over rations is said to have led to a revolt by the Saxon mercenaries. British defences were reformed under a Roman named Ambrosius Aurelianus whose family ruled a part of Britain.

A battle for British supremacy took place, under a British king (maybe King Arthur?) who was victorious at Mons Badonicus (near Bath). This provided the Celtic British with a temporary respite against the gathering strength of Saxon influence. In time it is said, that the nation was inhabited by three races, named Angilo( Frissones and Britons, each ruled by its own king. The population grew so large that large numbers from each, immigrated into emptier parts of the Frankish territory. This happened to such a degree that the king of the Franks asserted a claim to Britain. on account of his 'British' subjects.

It is suggested that around 570 a Saxon invasion swept across Britain causing unrest and resulted in the west with a great battle c 577 at Dyrham, about ten miles east of Bristol. The British leader Candidanus, considered last of the Romans, was slain and his army destroyed. In 633 Penda, king of Mercia, who had formed the new Saxon state in the Midlands, joined forces with the British under Cadwallon to defeat the . When Penda died in 658 he left the lands of England almost entirely under Anglo-Saxon rule. The old Romano-British civilisation was replaced by the new Saxon culture.

The Hwicce were a Saxon tribe (and associates) centred on Gloucestershire and Worcestershire. They emerged from land conquered in Wessex to form their own kingdom. The British kingdom based on Caer Gloui (Gloucester) was overrun by the large-scale Saxon advance [led by Cheaulin or Ceawlin] in 577 and its last king was killed in battle. The Anglo-Saxon name 'Gloucester' derives from the same source as the British Caer Gloui, caer and chester are both descended from the Latin castrum for fort.

577 The Hwicce took control of Gloucester. Cuthwin and Ceawlin slew Conmait Condidan and Farinmail at Dyrham to take Gloucester, Cirencester and Bath. Cynegils and Cwichelm fought Penda at Cirencester. 628 Gloucestershire is overrun by Penda of Mercia and the Hwicce become a sub-Mercian kingdom (by treaty). c 650s- c 674 Eadfrith ruled. In 658 Penda died. From 660 to 750 religious foundations were established throughout Mercia. c 674- c 675 Eanhere ruled. From 675 the local kingdom was a bishopric. c 675 - 679 Osric ruled. He is buried in .

10 c 679 - 704 Oshere ruled. In c 685 - 690 it was Oswald and in around 700 it was Ethelbert. At around 710 Ethelward ruled until around 720 when it was Ethelric. He was followed by Osred in 730s and Eanbert around 759. c 759 Uhtred became ruler of and from then until c 790 it was Ealdred.

From 756 until 796 Offa ruled Mercia. By 790 the Hwicce had been absorbed into Mercia, probably with the death of their last king and they were overruled by Offa.

In 875 the began invading England. In 878 The Danish army came into Cirencester. In 879 the Danes were defeated by King Alfred (the Great).

NB. 849 - 899 King Alfred was the youngest son of King Ethelwulf son of Egbert of Wessex. Alfred ended the Mercian supremacy. In around 896 Earl Ethelred of Mercia held powerful stature under King Alfred at the Council held at Gloucester. The kings thereafter were as follows: 899 - 925 Edward, 925 - 939 Athelstan, 939 - 946 Edmund, 946 - 975 Edred, followed by Edwy and Edgar. In 1016 we see the establishment of Gloucestershire, an area of 2,400 hides. Canute is King, his second wife Emma was daughter of Richard of Normandy and ex wife of Ethelred the Unready. It should be said here that the Danish (Vikings) were settled in several areas. They were closely akin to Anglo-Saxons in race , speech and most customs. As they were converted to Christianity they also became assimilated and loyal subjects.

Britain was not the only land being settled by Danish Vikings. In the year 911 the state of Normandy was established under their chieftain Rolf who became Duke of the Northmen. (or Normans). William the Conqueror was a descendant and his relationship with a large population of England is not generally recognised. Viking attacks on England (c 995) were bought-off by King Aethelred before he, suspecting a revolt issued orders to massacre the Danish settlers. In revenge King Sweyn sent a devastating army headed by his son Canute (who had an English wife). The young Canute met with the valiant King Edmund Ironside in single combat at Gloucester where they agreed to divide the kingdom until Edmund's death, when Canute would take the throne.

1042 - 1066 King Edward The Confessor- son of Ethelred and Emma. His accession was engineered by Earl Godwin of Wessex (Lord of the Hwicce) the most powerful noble under the King. (King Edward was married to Godwin's daughter Edith). Edward handed most matters of government to his brother-in-law Harold son of Godwin. [Harold was later to take up the monarchy and fight William for supremacy].

The shire of Gloucester may have originated to organise the men of the south Hwicce to defend themselves against the Danes. Gloucester was considered important by kings in need of a united England. The City commanded the old Roman roads running south and north to the Mercian boundaries. In 1051 when Edward the Confessor was king, Godwin, Earl of Wessex was Lord of the Hwicce and chief Lord of England. The national council or 'Witan' would meet at Gloucester, where quite often it would discuss methods of quelling troubles with Wales. After Godwin's death, his son and heir Harold (brother-in-law of Edward) was the King's most powerful subject.

You can see here how Gloucestershire played a great part in the destiny of the Saxon rulers and the importance of the city which was host to the sovereigns and their counsels.

11 NOTES

The River Leadon or Leden, provides a vale whose open agricultural (lowland) landscape is unique in the Forest of Dean. It is described by Sir Robert Atkyns, the county historian in 1712: Tlte Ledden risetlt in Herefordsltire, runs by Ledbury, thence to Upledden and Hartpury, and runs into tlte Severn near Gloster, a little below Over-Bridge.

This little river is subject to confluences and floods in winter-time which determine its lush and fertile meadows.

The Forest is neither a botanical nor a geographical term, but a legal one; it is not synonymous with woodland. Areas of the forest may contain moorland, wastes, pastures, agricultural land and urban habitation. Retention and nurture of trees were a consequence of hunting- and 'forest law'.

In the fourteenth century "Dean" and "St Briavels" were both used names of the Forest. Under the Norman Kings the forest was administered by Constables of . In the 11th and 12th centuries the laws of the Forest of Dean were applied to a much larger area than that of the present forest. The existing metes and bounds are practically those fixed in 1668. (Cyril Hart)

The Saxon kings of the tenth and eleventh centuries are known to have hunted over the greater part of that triangle between Stringuil (Chepstow) and an ill-defined base between Highnam, [Ledene] Newent and Ross. (Potto Hicks)

In the Norman period the whole area was very popular with the noble barons who hunted regularly. The Malvern chase would have extended down into the region. The estate of the DeClares at Tewkesbury had a 'chase' across 'Corse Lawn' to the adjacent Leadon Vale. West Gloucestershire up into Herefordshire and W orcestershire would have been included.

The Region in the tenth and eleventh centuries was a popular hunting ground. Liberty, honour and chase are terms given for the 'privileged' property of noble lords usually bestowed by the monarch. The Forest (of Dean) does not appear to have been included within the Domesday survey because of its 'ownership' by the king. The area subsequently to be known as St Briavels was referred to as Ledenei (later known as Little ). At the boundaries of the royal demesne forest we have the following hundreds:

Westberie (Westbury-on-Severn) inc. Hamme (Churcham) Hope (Longhope) Dene (now Micheldean, Littledean & Abenhall) Newneltam (Newnham) Duny (in ) Buleleye (Bulley) Rodele (Ruddle) Statu·e (Stears). Bicanofre (English Bicknor) was included in this hundred (probably in error).

Bliteslau (Bledisloe) inc. Avre () Peritone (Pirton) Eteslau (Bledisloe) Nesse (Nass) Pontune (Pomerton) and Lindence (Lydney).

Tedenltam (Tidenham) inc. Tedenltam (Tidenham)

12 Ledenei (Lydney) inc. Aluredestone (Allaston) Ledenei (Little Lydney, later St Briavels) Hiwoldestone (Hewelsfield ·- 'in the Forest by command'.

Twiferde (Twyford inc. Modiete (Madget) Odelaveston (Woolaston).

Botelau (Botloe) inc. Tetinton (Taynton) Tatinton (Little Taynton and Little Oakley) - 'in the same place one virgate of land lies in the Forest'. Huntelei (Huntley) Tebriston (Tibberton) Noent (Newent) Dimoch (Dymock).

Staunton (Staunton) is included under Brooms Ash hundred in Herefordshire and said to be 'in the king's wood'.

Wigheite (Wyegate) is not in any hundred- 'Now in the Forest by command'.

Rwirdin (Ruardean) is included in Herefordshire as it was then a chapelry of Walford in that county.

NB Much is omitted in Domesday probably due to the royal connection. No mention is made to cultivated lands. The lands of Dene are stated to have been granted 'quit of geld (tax) for the custody of the Forest'.

At Upleadon today (formerly 'Ledene') the church, St Mary the Virgin, is of Norman appearance but it is on Saxon foundations and it retains a Saxon arch. The layout around the church suggests that this was once the location of a Saxon village. The church is built upon a mound and the adjacent court or manor house probably stands on the ancient site of previous administrative buildings. It seems likely that the dwelling houses of the hamlet would have been located nearby, between the church and the river Leadon.

The farms between Upleadon and Highleadon named 'Great and Little Middletown's' are so named from early times when the name middleton was used to describe settlements within an estate of several settlements (hamlets). The suffix 'ton' is of Saxon origin (probably from 'tun' meaning enclosure) and changed to 'towne' in the Middle Ages.

NB. Saxon village buildings constructed closely together and built mainly of timber, were often completely destroyed by fire. 10 Thus removing them from visible surface evidence.

Conclusion: The purpose of this exercise has been to disprove the common assumption that Highleadon and Upleadon are so named from their association with the adjacent river Leadon. Significantly, the ancient title of the manor Ledene predates the naming of the adjacent Forest and probably of the river. It appears reasonable to conclude that Ledene manor, in Saxon times had some importance (within its own right) and was associated with the management of 'the Dene Forest' resulting in the subsequent title 'The Forest of Dean' [or Dene].

©Alan Shelley Cheltenham, September 2004.

10 Page RI (1970) Life in Anglo-Saxon England Batsford, London (p.151)

13 Upleadon formerly Ledene Manor

Norman Church on Saxon foundation

Present Manor House on earlier foundations

Communal Farm buildings of the Demesne

14 The Church of St. Mrury the Virgin Upleadon

The Church is sited on a 1nan-made mound of ancient origin.

Early Norman doorway with ornamental motifs and decorative work.

15 Settlement of 'Middleton' at Ledene

'Middletowne Farm'., Upleadon

The fann-house building is of medieval origin and may well stand upon ancient foundations from its conception as a 'middleton' in Saxon times. The expression 'towne' was typical of the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries when even the smallest settlerrtents were so termed. This was the natural progression of the Saxon description of the word 'ton'.

The title 'Middleton' was regularly used to describe a small farm or settlement placed between several hamlets within a largish estate. 'Great' and 'Little' ­ townes, describe such farms at Upleadon (Ledene) in the nineteenth century.

16 Highleadon Court (Hyneledene) formerly within Ledene

Remains of the ancient 'tithe' barn at the demesne fann, a relic of the old monastic manor of Hyneledene when it was under the ad:ministration of the Benedictine monastery of StPeter's at Gloucester, following the Norman Conquest.

Old farm and don1estic building, probably of eighteenth century origins and all that remains of the early'Leadon Court establishtnent. Remnants of the 'ho1nestead moat' still exist but much has been filled and vegetation has overtaken tl e site.

17 . UIJNTLEY

"THE

·.

* t.Ajt:.~ S! BR.lAVElS

Map 1. 'The Forest' at Domesday (adapted from a map by Cyril Hart)

18 ..... ~·~·~·~~~ ,,- Nt.WENT ..,..,.,... •-... ••..,.,·""" .,..,, HIC&HrmM • , I ·: . ,.: . , .... ·.• I• I . . TISSERTON '•, /'*~~T • ·• _j TAYNTON e eULLEV e GOR.Sl.EY FORO',,''''·., I . / ." N~WENf _t • ~ e HVNTL~Y ~URTON)' .-~,' BROMSP..S~: 9~:· .. 'I' HE 50UITRI:Es• .....,L:A .J ~ :: .• LONGtHOPE W~STON..,..~ ...-;...... _ o , , , •· • e BLAISDOH Ros s...... '~"\~.. ,..._...--- .... ~Yt·;-< ~1!. ••• ••: ...... ,., ..... , ., II ... RK • ..... ~ ALTON , ' ', '' \ l ', ',,,, ,• '·,_ .MICHEL DEAN ) /:' i ~E , __ .,..-"' "' ;' '-, ,..,...'iFLAXLEY ...., • ~ . ~ I I .:Z: \ 0 u"' ,•' " l I ~~ \ eW'ALFORD ~. · ·'' /' /LITflfo~EAH \\\ 4) Q:'~ • •RufRoEAN ~~ /'-, 4i'iRuDDU:./ ~ 0 GQODRiCJF --~ &- \ ~ • 1)1),1\/~ tl.. CASrLE .. . .. J P' 0 ..c. s r ~ \;; } ... . ( . ::r;11.1 :• •fNCti.LSH\ !!IU

\ ~ ---_ r:xn:11r or:. BAILIWICKS IH 1282 \ SCALE.: ~ INCH TO I Mli-S.

Map II. Dean Forest, 1228 and 1282 (adapted from map by Cyril Hart)

19 KINGS OF WESSEX AND ENGLAND, before 1066

EGBERT (died 839) I ETHELWULF (839-55, died 858)

ETHELBALD ETHELBERT ETHELRED ALFRED 'The Great' (855-60) (860-66) (866-71) (871-99),.------:

EDWARD THE ELDER (899-925) Ethelflaeda 'Our Lady of the Mercians'

ATHELSTAN EDMUND ED RED (925-39) r39-46) (946-55) 1,------l EADWIG (955-9) EDGAR (959-75) I Richard I Swein I Duke of Norman-dy--(died 1014) I (966-96) r- _I I 1 2 1 2 1 EWARD Aelfgifu - ETHELRED = Emma = CNUT = Aelfgifu of The 'Martyr' 'Unraed' I (1016-35) Northampton I ~~~----~I Godwin I Swein HAROLD I Earl of Wessex (died 1053) EDMUND King of Norway (1035-40) I 'Ironside' (died 1016) I I I I HAROLD II Tostig Edith = EDWARD Alfred HARTHACNUT Gunhild (1066) Earl of The Confessor (died 1036) (1040-2) = Henry III (1042-66) King of Germany Western Emperor

© Alan Shelley September 2004

20 POSTSCRIPT: Conjecture

The Norman Conquest

The early Saxon settlement, and influence over, the Ledene Vale began in the late sixth century. In 577, Ceawlin led a war-band, recruited from settlers in the Thames valley. These were West Saxons that then settled the area, creating a mixture with the indigenous Dobunni Celts and the various remaining people, whose ancestors may have been slaves and mercenaries of the old Roman Empire.

We recognise these collective people as being led by the Saxon tribe called the Hwicce. They formed the dominant group in the Severn Vale during the seventh and eighth centuries. Their territory included the prosperous landscapes of Gloucestershire, the Severn and Avon valleys, along with the Cotswolds and a major part of Worcestershire. It would seem that they avoided settling within forests. They selected an area, thickly surrounded by the woodlands of Dean, Malvern, Wyre, Kinver, Arden, Wychwood and Kemble.

Trading emanated from the Saltworks at Droitwich, extremely valuable at that time. Iron from Dean was distributed via Gloucester and the Severn. Hewn stone and timber were also valuable commodities and were often traded in support of these industries. Copious amounts of timber was required to heat and produce the salt and iron. Many of the local highways would have become linked with the 'Saltways'.

The Hwicce were devout Christians, and by around 700, they had their own bishop and a few small monasteries. These were associated with several 'minsters' which doubled as parish churches. Eventually the Hwiccean kingdom was absorbed by the Angles of the Mierce (people of the March or border) Mercian kingdom. It seems likely that the leading men of the old Hwiccean territory, retained their special identity, even until the Conquest of 1066.

By the eleventh century, many parish churches had been constructed and the old minsters diminished over time. The people of the Vale became much in need of church support during the fifty years preceding the Norman Conquest. Severe weather conditions, famine and pestilence were relentless, causing large destruction of livestock and human population.

Since the days of , people from Scandinavia had been steadily migrating into the British Isles. The whole of England now included a mixture of Anglo-Saxons, Danes, Norwegians and Germanic Frisians. Assimilation with the native Romano Celts had taken place over many years. We should consider England as a country assimilated into a 'Northman' culture. Even our famous Saxon Archbishop Oswald of Worcester (from 961) was half Danish. Angles and Danes were closely associated and many were intermarried.

In much the same way emigration had been taking place from Scandinavia into other neighbouring countries. They shared similar cultural origins, traditions and had a basically similar language. However, there were differences in tribal customs and the Danish laws were different than Saxon laws (hence the 'Dane Law').

King Harold II, son of Godwin, Earl of Wessex, was half Danish, his father had married Cnut's cousin. It is likely that there was some enmity toward a growing influence of the Normans who were becoming established in England under Edward. The half-Norman Edward, had surrounded himself with friendly acquaintances. Normans had been settling 1 within Harold's provinces .

The period before the conquest had been one of continual dynastic struggles. Royal families of Denmark, Norway and Normandy claimed succession to the English throne. Intrigue and treachery were very much behind the politics of those times. A king-maker emerged from an entrepreneurial line of vassals who had been seeking their own selfish agenda. Indeed it was the actions of Godwin's family that brought the English Saxon period effectively to an end.

1 Particularly after the Godwins banishment and their return from disaffection in 1052.

21 Monarchies overseas, on the northern borders of the Continent were of similar 'Northern' tribes and culture as our Anglo-Saxon monarchy in England. Marriage links and alliances made these countries much less 'foreign' than is often assumed by readers of history. In England, leaders were allied to different factions but all came under one ruling king. A king was very dependant upon the loyalty of his immediate thegns and of their powers of persuasion over the population.

Our Saxon king Harold, was the son of Godwin. Godwin's. father Wulfnoth, a Saxon thegn, was the son of Aethelmaer. Aethelmaer was related to two brothers, Brihtric, and Eadric Streona who was King Ethelred's ealdorman and overlord of Mercia. A disagreement between Eadric and the aetheling (prince) Ethelstan, led to Ethelstan being murdered cl006 by Godwin. The king ordered Eadric's sons to be deprived of their sight. In 1009 the English fleet of 100 ships, deployed for defence against raiding Vikings, were all destroyed in a mysterious debacle caused by Wulnoth and Brihtric. Wulnoth's apparent treachery allowed the Danish Viking fleet free passage to violate England, under the command of Thorkell the Tall and his brother Hemming.

In 1013, Uhtred, ealdorman of Northumbria, submitted to the Danes, led by King Swein (Forkbeard). Ethelred fled England with his Queen and children. Edmund Ironside took over England's defences and recovered Uhtred's Northumbria in 1015. Eadric Streona, ealdorman of Mercia, had sided with the Danish. The Mercians, along with Godwin and his allies, assisted Swein's son Cnut to take over the whole kingdom. An agreement between Cnut and Edmund was made, that Cnutwould succeed the throne upon Edmund's death. Very shortly after that agreement Edmund died, from a fatal wound from an assassin at Minsterworth on the west bank of the Severn (probably at Godwin's instruction).

Edmund's infant sons were living in Hungary and his brother Edwy, was driven into exile. At this time Godwin rose to a position of power. He had married Gytha, daughter of Thorgils and brother of Ulf, who was married to the Danish king Swein's daughter, sister of Cnut. Consequently Godwin's children were half Danish and each were given Danish names.

Cnut owed much to Godwin's family (father, grandfather and uncles) for his arrival at the throne. The reign of Cnut has been regarded as exceptionally good. However, not everybody enjoyed his praise, and it is believed that Cnut executed Uhtred and Eadric as examples for their betrayal of a king. He was inclined to raise such a person, in reward of their favour, before execution. · In the same way it is believed he rewarded Thorkill with the overlordship of Denmark before his execution for betraying himself and the English king. Godwin was regarded as a loyal servant of Cnut and his father (Swein).

For his services, Godwin was raised to the overlordship of England with the title (c1023) of Earl of Wessex. Cnut rewarded Godwin with the highest honours bestowable, including the handing of his cousin in marriage, thereby extending a potential royal link for the future Harold II. Godwin deviously managed to have family links (through marriages) with both the Danish and eventually the Anglo-Norman royal families. He also ensured that each of his sons and daughter had vast amounts of land and property under their controF

Godwin had astutely removed any obstacle in his path to power. When Cnut died in 1035 Godwin was prime magnate. He was responsible for the murder of Ethelred's son Alfred. It is probable he arranged the poisoning of Cnut's son Harthacnut, before awaiting the arrival of the atheling Edward. When Edward inherited the throne, it is said he was so unsure of himself, he fell at the feet of Godwin asking for assistance.

2 An interesting example of Godwins covetous activity is illustrated by the devious method he emplyed to gain control over the manor of Berkeley. The manor contained a nunnery governed by a noble abbess. Godwin delivered his nephew (a young spark) under the pretence of being seized with sickness. The young gallant was persuaded by bribery to be amorous toward the nuns. He caused several, including the abbess, to be with child, whereupon the Earl aquainted the King. Upon expulsion of the nuns, the Earl begged Berkeley of the King and had it granted. The manor was settled upon Godwin's wife Gytha but she refused to eat anything that came from the manor, because of the destruction of the abbey. She lived at Berkeley but Godwin also bought Udecestre for her maintenance.

22 Promises were extracted from Edward, of undiminished honours for his son Harold, and included marriage with his daughter, Edith. In return, Godwin would take control and look after the nation. The half-Norman Edward had a retinue of Norman attendants within his court and they were not generally popular with Godwin or his son Harold. A discourtesy by some of Godwin's men led to a dispute between Godwin and the King nearly resulting in civil war. Godwin was forced to flee the Country before later being repatriated. He died in 1053 and Harold, his eldest son, became the king's chief noble and personal advisor.

Although it is understood that Edward had promised William of Normandy, succession to the throne, and that Harold had sworn fealty to William, it seems to be a family trait that Harold would grab any opportunity to rule the Country, as King. Harold's challenges, firstly against his brother Tostig at Stamford Bridge, then with William at Hastings, are typical of the Godwins determination for power, the outcome of which has already been well explained

Following the battle of 1066, King William's immediate task was to quell any insurrection and to organise the management of his 'new' Country. William's approach was to impose a feudal system, and to distribute the administrational responsibilities among his co­ Normans.

Taynton Parva, or Little Taynton and now called Kent's Green, had been closely associated with the ancient Ledene estate. At one time it had been a tun of an Hwiccean Saxon named Taeta. The lands were eventually divided, when the village was deserted and another (Taynton Magna) was built nearby. Before the Conquest, Edward the Confessor had given the lands at Tatinton to Wulfgar, free of taxation, probably for the purpose of guarding the Forest. Wulfgar had settled the land, constructed defences and founded the original village of Taynton.

Wulfgar died and a power struggle arose between Harold Godwinson and the newly appointed William Fitznorman. Presumably, William (Norman follower) had been chosen by Edward to take over the role of guarding the Forest. The situation was resolved by the Conquest, when king William changed the whole nature of life for the occupants of the British Isles. Under the new feudalism, Saxon aristocracy was replaced and William Fitznorman was made overlord of the Forest area.

Fearing dissent, under the new regime, he built a defensive motte and bailey (timber) castle at Tatinton. By 1225 a castle was unnecessary and the successor established a moated manor house. William Fitznorman had also founded a church and developed a small Norman village. All of which were eventually deserted, although the traces are still clearly visible today.

In 1131, Hugh son of William Fitznorman, is recorded as having farmed the profits of the Forest for £10. The Domesday survey records William, as holding Taynton, Dene and other lands along with some special post or 'ministerium' of uncertain nature, for which he seems to have held Taynton 'quit of geld; this post being in the family since the Confessor.3 In Hugh's time he is regarded merely as a landowner (lay tenant-in-chief). Geoffrey of Dene who also possessed Hyneledene, in 1195 is known to hold the bailiwick of Dene. This was probably based upon the old Botloe hundred and included the estate of Ledene. Two other bailiwicks were held elsewhere. No clear indication of a warden for the whole of the Forest is indicated at that period.

Relatively few tiers, of the Norman aristocracy, had been appointed to hold most of the land in England. Around half of the land (including Crown land) was held by about 190 lay tenants­ in-chief. Several'Honours' were so huge that only a dozen or so leading barons together, controlled about a quarter of England. Their estates were such that around 20 of the leading lay-lords had lands in ten or more counties, and many had possession both north of the Trent and south of the Thames.

3 TBGAS Vol.57 p.90

23 While the great majority of Domesday landholders came from northern France, there were a few Anglo-Saxons and Danes. These were mainly under-tenants of Norman lords. The other great landowners were the re-founded monasteries now headed, in most cases, by Norman abbots. Wulfstan, the English Bishop of Worcester, by his good reputation, hung on to his position until he died in 1095. At Gloucester, William, in need of strong allies, brought in his faithful abbot, Serlo, to revitalise StPeter's. Serlo's forceful nature and good management, attracted the attentions of the Norman magnates, who donated many estates. In 1086, the general process of distribution was still incomplete. Acquisitions to the Abbey, of lands, continued through the . By the end of the eleventh century, StPeter's Abbey was very well endowed.

With so much agricultural land to be administered, it was a highly practical decision to grant large amounts to the developing Norman abbeys. Ledene was given to the abbey at Gloucester, by Walter de Lacy in about 1080. Previously the estate belonged to Roger, son of William Fitzosborn, Earl of Hereford and was one of 27 manors bestowed by King William on Walter de Lacy, when the possessions of the rebel Earl were confiscated by the Crown. Walter de Lacy had come to England as a follower of William Fitzosborn and became a 'tenant-in-chief' as a result of Roger Fitzosborn's forfeiture in 1075. A great benefactor of the Church, Walter de Lacy and his wife Emmelina had three sons, the youngest, Walter, at the age of seven, was devoted to God's service as a monk at StPeter's (AD 1080).

The lands at Newent, adjacent to the estate of Ledene, were given by William the Conqueror to the abbot and convent of Cormeile in Normandy. The abbey sent over a prior and some Benedictine monks to form a subordinate cell of that foreign monastery. These lands are recorded as bounding against the estate of William Fitznorman. There appears to have been much conjecture, by local historians, over this period of development. It is usually assumed that the Norman development of Newent is derived from its association with a 'new-inn'. However, it is my belief that the name, simply meant new-went (in Old English, new way). This made good sense when you consider that the old way, from Gloucester, had been via Dymock (the old burgh) and had become too divergent.

A similar title described the location of the old Saxon settlement of Hartpury. At Domesday, Hartpury and Maismore were represented by the two manors of 'Morwent'. This is likely to have been derived from Merewent, rather than from a personal name. Merewent simply meant (in Old English) the place by the pond. Much of these areas were regularly flooded, as a consequence of the river Leadon. Of course, it was the flooded vale qualities, that made these areas of lush meadow-land so attractive to the Saxon settlers.

Before the Norman Conquest, the Vale had been administered by a number of Saxon landowners, operating within a relatively 'free' society. Three Saxon thegns are known to have 'guarded' the Forest area, on behalf of Edward. King William appointed as bailiff, 4 William Fitznorman , in the role of protecting the Forest and imposing the Norman Forest Law.

At that time the old, original, Botloe Hundred, with its defended town Dymock to the north and the small, scattered, settlements of Taynton, Tibberton, Newent, Upleadon and Highleadon, formed an area outside of the Forest. These agricultural settlements relate directly to my considered view that a large Saxon estate (comprising the various settlements, with the exception of Dymock) was administered as 'Ledene'.

The Normans appear to have adopted the Taynton/Ledene location, from which to administer the Forest area, until the later period when administration was shared between the castles at St Briavels and at Gloucester. From the Domesday record, we see that William Fitznorman had personal possession of Tatinton (wlticlt lwd been held by Wulfgar) .. Most of the Ledene lands were, by then, being farmed for the monastery. William as the Norman bailiff-cum­ sheriff was overlord of the Ledene estate. His immediate descendants adopted the title de Ledene.

4 fitzNorman in this instance, probably infers William 'of the Normans'

24 It seems likely that the Saxon village at Upleadon, having become leaderless and without its former administration, was, in time, abandoned. From an entry in the monastery records, it can be seen that William's son Geoffrey (dele Dene) came into the personal possession of the lands including Hyneledene. This leaves us with a fairly reasonable conclusion that the Forest, under the governance of Geoffrey, would have been widely referred to as the 'Forest of le Dene'.

The earliest detailed map of Upleadon seems to be the Ordnance Map of 1811. This map clearly indicates the medieval settlement adjacent Upleadon Green and the old church, mill and manor house (court). South of these and toward Highleadon, are the settlements of Moat Farm, Great and Little Middletown's. Between the Middletown settlements had, at one time, been a broad settlement named 'Hind Town'. Although this is completely deserted, it was clearly recorded in the field names shown on the Tithe Award Map.

Field 241 is called Green Lane or Long Gate. Fields 214 and 215 are named Hind Town and are clearly associated with fields 212 and 213, Upper and Lower Wheelers. Field 213 had contained a moated property. The sub-circular moat featured on the Tithe Map is now filled-in but may show up in crop growth. Below these positions and closer toward Highleadon Court are fields shown as 'Oldhouse' grounds and 'Pancroft' that eventually became part of the Ledbury Hunt, Point-to-Point course. At the lower boundary, above Ell Brook was a second common 'Green' also called Upleadon Green. It would appear that several houses were at one time grouped along the highway, (on the opposite side) within the vicinity of Hay Farm and the mill.

Hyneledene, in Saxon times, was a very small community. It seems to have been dedicated to a religious 5following. There may have been connections with one of similar stature at Highnam. It may also be assumed that these were, or became, cells of the monastery at Gloucester. Later in time another religious community developed close-by at Hartpury. In 1284-1306 Abbot John de Gurneyes of StPeter's, Gloucester, built the 'Abbot's lodging' at Hartpury and several new houses at Upleadon.

The location of the religious commune at Hyneledene is difficult to pinpoint, but it is likely to be in the region of where Highleadon Court Farm buildings are today. The old barn originates from the monastic period. Existence of an early hamlet is described in an agreement in 1285 when the Abbot and the Convent granted a tenement in Hyneledene for a William de la Forde.

In Anglo-Saxon times, life in the hamlets or villages was simply one of subsistence. The ordinary villagers or geburs were generally 'free' and equal. They worked together, when necessary, to provide for their families and dependants. There was no concept of profit making. The Anglo-Saxon of humble station, owned his own land and farmed it in association with his fellow villagers. He lived in the village for protection and was surrounded by his own, and his neighbours fields. He farmed his land under the open field system, whereby every man had a number of strips scattered within the area of the village. Cottagers or cotsetlas were 'half­ free' and were required to provide some services to the lord of the manor.

Under the Normans the villagers were no longer 'free' and were tenants of the manor, owing some form of services to the lord of the manor. In the cases of Upleadon and Highleadon the lord of the manor (for 400 years) was the Abbot of StPeter's Abbey at Gloucester and presumably bailiffs were designated to manage the estate. Normally the workers lived in simple wooden cottages (that were easily consumed by fires or rotted and disappeared with time). The Norman lords would build their houses and administrative buildings of stone, and often with moats around. 6

Tenants of Hyneledene manor were included in deeds dated 1524 and where four tenants are named. References are again made in 1529, this time to a further seven tenants. In 1530, a moiety was agreed with the Abbey, for five messuages with lands to be transferred into lay­ ownership.

5 In 1081, the Abbey of StPeter, Gloucester, held 7 hides in Highnam and 4 hides in Upleden (ref is also made to 8 acres of meadow). It is stated that all of these possessions belonged to the abbey in the days of Edward the Confessor. Transactions of Bristol & GloucesterArchaological Society Vol.4 p112. 6 Homestead moats were also created much later in times to engrandise a property (fashionable style).

25 Hind Town

Field Map cl840

Mlddletowne

,

Pan croft

Parts of the old manor estate of Ledene

26 Dissolution of the monastery in 1541 enforced several changes. Much of the property and lands, of the lower Leadon Vale, passed to John Arnold of Highnam Court. Saxton's map of 1577, Gloucestershire, clearly indicates a Ledene Courte. Some of the lands (Drews Farm) remained in the ownership of the Dean & Chapter of the newly formed Cathedral at Gloucester.

A former hamlet built of timber construction has disappeared with time. The current formation of Highleadon dates back to the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. A few existing houses have developed from the sixteenth century, namely Whitehouse, Green End and Mill Cottage. It is also likely that Halftimber House, formerly located in the current vicinity of the New House, and earlier Drews Farm buildings were of that period. Camp House, Vine Villa (cottage development) Green Farm, Brambles farm (Daws) and 'Tudor Cottage' are of the seventeenth century.

A cottage located where 'Four Winds' is now, and a small farmhouse (Rogers) located close-by Green Farm were of the late sixteenth or early seventeenth century. The moated position of Highleadon Court was certainly of the early sixteenth century, and is likely to be the location of a much earlier settlement.

A close examination of the 1811 and 1817 OS Maps (earliest available) indicate some ancient trackways. These tracks suggest directional links across the Newlands and the Newent highway to the old deserted (Taynton) village, before Kents Green. Footpaths shown on more modern maps clearly indicate the working links between the hamlet and the old manor house demesne. Ancient trackways from Highleadon to Hartpury suggest a close relationship existed in the early years. This was probably related to the usage of the Mill and the monastic connections with the early church and the abbots mansion.

It seems likely, from the contours of 'Red Hill', that this may have been formed (developed) for some sort of defensive purpose. An otherwise circular mound, it has been partially cut­ through by the modernised highway to Upleadon. The relationship and proximity with the old Court adds to the possibility that this was a purposeful construction although no archaeological evidence is available.

Finally, the 'Green' at Highleadon, once associated with the common waste of the manor, may date back to Saxon times although there is no evidence to support this. Certainly the Green has played a part in the medieval economy of the hamlet and a 'common' pasture has existed from time immemorial. The 'Newlands' once wasteland, were cleared and put to productive use sometime in the late seventeenth or early eighteenth century.

Historically Descriptive Place Names

Locally we can see a place described as 'Carlswall', this suggests a reference to 'Ceorls-well'. Before the Norman Conquest, an ordinary freeman of the lowest rank was described as a ceorl (or churl). The word 'churlish' is used today, describing a rustic, surly fellow, rude/ungraceous. Similarly we have 'Carwent', (churls-way) near Kents Green. Previous references have been made to Morewent and Merewent in relation to Hartpury and the use of the expression went which precedes the word, way. In the same way it may describe Newent as New-way.

'Normans Wood' and 'Normans Farm' are likely to date back to the days when these were the property of Fitznorman. 'Moorfields' well describes the landscape between Highleadon, Tibberton and Taynton and would have been given over mainly to the grazing of sheep.

'Hay Farm' is almost certainly of ancient origin and suggests that an enclosed settlement or area once existed, andthat it would have been described from its heya or fence. Another rather slim possibility is that it was once the home of the Hayward that controlled the commons of the estate.

© Alan Shelley September 2004

27 MAP 1 ~.

A conjectural view of the Saxon estate of Ledene: At Upleadon, the Norman style church is of Saxon origin. The layout of the surrounding area suggests that this was once the location of a Saxon village. Note the names of the two farms toward Highleadon have the medieval title of Middletown commonly given to settlements on estates with two or more settlements. Much of the wider landscape would have been given over to sheep grazing. MAP 2 a ..

Highleadon (Hyneledene) in the Eighteenth Century: Note a) the format of the tenancies b) their equality and c) the distribution of cottages (and Inn) at Green End. The medieval parish roads and their pattern of layout are clearly indicated. MAP 3 8.

Highleadon in the Nineteenth Century (1837)

Note the transitional changes toward enclosure. The waste between the county roads has come under cultivation Encroachments have occurred on the Green. Parish roads are diminishing by enclosure and cultivation. The Influence of Danish & Norman Dominium

Brihtnoth, a Saxon ealdorman died in 991, at the battle of Maldo~in the second wave of Danish invasions, at the end of the tenth century. He displayed his Englishmen against the Viking (host) aggressors in support of Ethelred, lord (king) of his people and land.

In 1008 there was clearly an Anglo-Saxon dominance perhaps dominated by Eadric Streona the Ealdorman of Mercia with influence over Ethelred. He was a shifty, but plausible character according to Finberg, always looking for advantage.

Later in 1013, Swein, King of Denmark, had gained England and Ethelred fled to Normandy. In the following year, Swein died at Gainsborough and his leadership passed to his son Cnut. Shortly after that Cnut, a very young man to be in charge of the Danish fleet, was driven out by Ethelred. In 1015, Eadric Streona had joined Cnut to strengthen the Danish influence over the nation. Edmund Ironside, Ethelred's son made a pact with Cnut but very shortly died from a fatal wound dealt by an assassin at Minsterworth.

After years of uncertainty and Viking raids, England was then ruled (for 19 years) by the Danish king Cnut. During that time the kingdom enjoyed reasonable peace and prosperity.

Cnut divided England in four, to Thorkell the Tall, Mercia to Eadric Streona, Northumbria to Eric of Norway and Wessex he retained under his own close rule.

Cnut was a shrewd ruler and he was aware of double dealings and deceits, by the end of 1017 Eadric and four Englishmen of high rank had been put to death, without charge or trial. Cnut then married Ethelred's widow Emma and to prove his commitment, he destroyed thirty Viking ships in English waters and dismissed another forty back to Denmark, after paying the crews from English taxation. He then had agreement with the whole Country.

One notable family endured through Cnut's reign, with the power held before under Ethelred. This family were the successors of Leofwine, Ealdorman of the Hwicce who was succeeded by his son Leofric, Earl of Mercia, and Leofric's grandsons who survived into the reign of William the Conqueror.

Strong Danish connections had empowered the family of Godwin and his sons. After Cnut the Godwin family took control of most of the governing administration. Edward the Confessor was half Norman, (ruled for 24 yrs) son of English King Ethelred and grandson of Richard 1, Duke of Normandy. He had spent his life into early manhood in Normandy. Probably for safety, he surrounded himself with fellow Normans. There must have been considerable acrimony between the Anglo-Danish and the Anglo-Norman camps.

Worthy of note, during the period from 1046 to 1048 the country was suffering disastrous weather conditions and in 1054 vast numbers of cattle died of murrain. The pestilence was such that all kinds of animals were affected both domestic and wild including the birds.

Following Godwin's deportation then repatriation in 1052, the King was no longer a mere cypher (figure head) as before, and was now less prone to intrigue. He had replaced several influential positions previously held by retainers of the Godwins and concentrated much of his efforts into the refounding and the rebuilding of .

31 During the time when the Godwins were excluded, a part of Godwin's earldom went to Edward's Norman nephew, Ralph, who organised Herefordshire (which then probably included the Leadon Vale) on the model of a Norman frontier province.

The King retained the Norman Robert, abbot of Jumieges, as his intimate advisor. Frenchmen and Bretons began building castles. There were many difficulties between the Godwins and those closely supporting the King.

In 1053, Godwin had died and his earldom passed to Harold. Undoubtedly Harold was then the most powerful person below the King, he was Edward's brother-in-law and enjoyed the privileges and authority as 'under-king' and leader of the English army.

At this time, under the influence of Harold, who like Godwin was a most forceful character. The King seems to have been compelled to dismiss several of his French Normans from the Court, including the Norman Bishop of .

Leofric, Earl of the Mercians and husband of Godiva died in 1057, at which time Harold himself replaced the Frenchman (Ralph?) at Hereford. Harold was systematically removing all obstacles to become the eventual king.

Harold's brothers and sisters were endowed with considerable lands and powers over various areas of the country. It has never become clear as to why Harold made a visit to Normandy in 1064, with a small body of men and was arrested and taken before William. It is said by historians that he then swore fealty to William and accepted him as his overlord.

There were a number of old English families that would not accept the arrogant Harold as their absolute lord and by their alliance with the Norman factor, were able to survive and prosper beyond the Norman Conquest. One such family were the de Berkeleys.

Roger de Berkeley, of Saxon blood, inherited Berkeley from his father and grandfather before the Conquest. Son of Eadnoth (the Staller) who had held high rank at the court of Edward the Confessor.

Roger was an Englishman who sided with the Norman faction. He held a military command in William's reign and he died fighting Harold Godwinson's sons in 1068.

Roger's son, Harding, was lord of the manor of Meriet in Somerset and his son Nicholas fitzHarding , inherited in 1166. A second son was Robert fitzHarding who was Reeve of Bristol. Robert was at some time granted by King Henry a part of the royal manor of Berkeley . Later he had gained the whole manor along with nine estates on the western edge of the Cotswolds. He had five others, scattered down the Vale, plus Ashleworth, six miles north of Gloucester.

This grant of lands brought Robert Fitzharding into conflict with Roger' de Berkeley whose father and grandfather had held Berkeley in fee-farm. A reconciliation was arrived at by the marriage of Roger de Berkeley's son to the daughter of Robert Fitzharding. Also, Alice the daughter of Roger married Maurice, son of Robert. These two marriages reunited the powers of this Anglo-Saxon family, albeit with Norman leanings.

32 It is said that 'England' did not fight with Harold at Hastings, but only his bodyguard, the thegnhood of his brothers' earldoms south of the Trent, and the Churchmen of Wessex. His own house was divided, the Confessor's widow being one of the first to submit to the Conqueror, while Tostig brought together two enemies from abroad.

When William became king, he ejected Stigland, Arch Bishop from 1052 (of Danish blood and favourite of Godwin) he was not favoured by the Pope who gave William his blessing to reform the church into the ways of the Norman culture.

The only serious rebellion to the Norman Conquest after 1070, carne in 1075. Earl Waltheof aided the Bretton Earl of East Anglia (settled by Edward) and the Earl of Hereford son of William, leading viceroy of the Welsh marches. The three earls were anticipating Danish assistance but it came too late.

During the rule of Cnut and the later Saxon period, it is recognised that the central forest area, now known as Dean, was a domain specially reserved by the king for hunting. Of course this became even more strengthened under the 'forest laws' of the Norman kings. The Severn and Lead on Vales acted as a frontier between the Mercian and Welsh dominions.

Saxon settlements that began after 600 were very small and simply comprised of homesteads in clearings on the edge of the woodland and taking full advantage of any surviving Roman fields. Post Norman Conquest, the English earls were dispossessed and the lands allocated to William's followers.

Motte and Bailey Castles of that period existed at English Bicknor and Castle Tump, Dyrnock. The castle protecting the estate of Ledene was situated directly to the west at Tatinton, now the deserted medieval village of Taynton Parva.

William Fitz-Norman's Castle at Taynton

Directly to the west of Highleadon and bordering (if not part of} the estate of Ledene is the ancient settlement of Taynton. The village, over the years called Tatinton, Tetinton, Thetington, Tepingston, Teinona, Teignton and now Taynton, today sprawls over a relatively large area. In the days of yore, in the 7th or 8th century, it was settled by a Saxon, probably of the Hwicce tribe, named Taeta and whose farmstead or Tun has led to its subsequent narnings.

By the eleventh century there were two manors, Tatinton was said to have been given by Edward to Wulfgar (or Ulgar). The other manor, Tetinton was held by Alwin who had been Reeve or acting sheriff of the newly formed Shire of Gloucester.

It was Edward's Norman nephew Ralph who organised a protective frontier along the Hereford border and along the boundary of the Ledene estate against the Forest. William Fitznorrnan (son of a Norman) perhaps half English, was given administrative charge of part of those defences. His role was similar to that of a reeve or sheriff. He is recorded as being in possession of both Lye or Lecwe/Lega or Lege in Herefordshire and of Taynton Parva. His administration almost certainly included most if not all of Botloe hundred.

33 Later records indicate that his family successors were in possession of lands in the Ledene estate. It seems that there may have been disagreements with Harold Godwinson resulting from a constant power struggle over land ownership. Following the Conquest William Fitznorman was made feudal overlord of the territory. This may have been a parallel position of authority when the lands and their produce had been granted to the Church (Monastery at Gloucester) under the governance of the Abbot.

At Castle Hill Wood can be seen the small fort, built as an outpost of the old estate. It was further developed by William Fitznorman into a defensive castle to administer the more rigorous forest laws and to prevent descent by the neighbouring population.

Similar examples of early local defences where an elevated Motte was surrounded by a ditched enclosure bailey had been at Eastbach then re-sited at English Bicknor, the early timber structure re-built in stone. Another earthwork castle with wooden fort was at Castle-Tump north of Newent.

Eight manors that had belonged to Alwin were given to William Goizenboded including Tetinton, the hamlet that would eventually become Taynton Magna or Great Taynton

1 The hamlet at Taynton Parva (or 'Little Taynton') situated near Kent's Green , developed into a small, Norman influenced, village. Improvements were made to the earthwork castle and to the addition of a parish church. By 1225 the castle could serve no further useful purpose and was allowed to fall into agricultural use.

William's family continued to hold an interest in the village and established a moated manor house, the traces of which are clearly visible today.

In the early years of the boy King Henry III's reign, a grant was made by Geoffrey de Ledene to the abbot Thomas (De Bredon, 1223-8) and the Convent of Gloucester, of two acres of meadow in Muchelmede between the meadow of Cormeilles Abbey* called Cowmede and his own called Aschetillesmede, for ten years at 1d rent, for which he received 60s to pay his debts to the Jews. Witnesses: Master Walter scriptor, Drogo pincerna (butler), Walter de Hampton, Geoffrey de Weston, Hy. Lebun, Regd.le Shay. Mich., 1227.

*The adjacent manor of Newent also bordering the estate of Ledene and part of its original lands had been given to the abbot and convent of Cormeile in Normandy. The lands were administered by a prior and Benedictine monks who were subordinate to the Norman monastery.

During the reign of Edward the Confessor the Abbey of StPeter was in the possession of seven hides in Highnam and four at Upleadon along with eight acres of meadows. This land seems likely to have been that of the early religious settlements attributing to the names of HygnaLeden and Hygna Ham

Roger de Stanton, Kt, 1195-6 gave the monks of StPeter free use of the water of the Leaden to supply the mill at Upleaden.

1 The word Cljlle in Old English meant 'king' or 'royal' in connection and was used in reference to 'land of the king'. Hence we have the county of Kent or we may consider 'Kent's Green' to have had a similar connotation.

34 The Village of Taynton

South of Kent's Green and Taynton Court Farm can be seen the remains of the deserted medieval village of Tatinton or Taynton Parva. The ancient earthwork motte and bailey, the foundations of a church and a manor house are all clearly visible. Here was once the home of Wulfgar that became a defensive position for William Fitznorman and for his successor Geoffrey de Ledene.

Note the close proximity to Layne's Wood and the manor of Highleadon in the estate of Ledene. A hollow road is visible in the ground surfaces crossing directly in line to the drive and location of the old manor house at Highleadon Court Farm estate.

The old village was finally destroyed in the Civil War when the church was burnt to the ground and any remaining villagers were moved out and extended into the modern Taynton Magna we can see today.

35 The Old Village and Castle Grounds

a ' . :·.· E ------

1. MOTTE 2. INNER BAILEY 3. OUTER BAILEY 4. CHURCH 3. FISHPOND

6. MOATED MANOR HOUSE 7. FISHPOND 8. APPROXIMATION OF LANE

9. CIVIL WAR DEFENCES2

The archaeology indicates an early ringworks castle and subsequent motte with bailey and outer bailey. All remains of any further superficial structures have long dissapeared.

2 The plan and its descriptions have been extracted from the work of Sarah Elizabeth Williams of the Dean Archaeological Group

36 Taynton Tithe Map of 1840

785. L /ct=le ove.r-5 A.

This field map of the village in 1840 indicates clearly its complete desertion and how quickly the land was returned to productive agriculture. The naming of the fields is of great advantage in the study of the archaeological remains of this once thriving compact and defended village?

3 The reproduction of the above field map is the work of Geoff Gwatkin © 1992

37 APPENDIX TO VOLUME VI

The Magonsretan

Rulers of the Lead on Vale

In the seventh century the Vale was within the territory ofMerewalh a sub-king of Mercia, his people are recorded as the Magonsrete. A son ofPenda, possibly through marriage, he has been referred to as 'the illustrious Welshman'. His wife, Domne Eafe or Eormenburga was a Kentish princess. Merewalh converted to Christianity c 660 and was later buried at , the former Mercian royal house.

Merewalh had two notable daughters, Mildburh who was head of the Minster of Much Wenlock and Mildrith (died c 700) who was head ofMinster-in-Thanet (her mother had been 1 given the isle ofThanet by the Kentish king ). There are clear interrelations between the Mercian and Kentish administrations of that period.

Merewalh's rein was followed by his son Merchelm (a clear reference to Mercian). The last known sub-king of the Magonsrete was another son, Mildfrith who died c735. The territory then became Mercian ealdormanry. Eventually it was led by the infamous Eadric Streona who shied from battle when leading the Magonsrete in 1016.

The Lead on named by the Saxons Ledene, suggesting a broad river vale, forrried part of a boundary placing the Magonsretan territory on the west of the river and the Hwiccean princedom on the eastern side. The Magonsrete were in the diocese of Athelstan , bishop of Hereford. The bishops ofWorcester styled themselves 'bishops of the Hwicce' in the tenth century. That (Hwicce) territory included the whole ofWorcestershire except the nOrth west tip (eg Warks) and all ofGloucestershire except the Forest of Dean and other lands west of the rivers Severn and Leadon. ·

NB. The see of Gloucester was not established until1541, after the Reformation

The Magonsretan kingdom maintained close links with the Hwicce. Both areaS were part of Penda' s design - deliberately creating a buffer between Mercia and the Welsh kingdom of Powys. In the latter part of the seventh century the Magonsretan had extended over the southern part of and most ofHerefordshire.

The name Magonsretan may derive from Romano-BritishMagnis meaning 'the rocks' although these people appear also to be known as 'Western Hecani' and were originally simply referred to as the West Angles. ·

Florence of Worcester claimed that Worcester was the renowned metropolis of all Hwicce or Magesitania, seeing the Western Hecani and the Hwicce as branches of the same people. The river Wye separated them from the Britons ofWales.

1 In Saxon times, until the law was changed by the Normans, women could inherit and possess lands independently and within their own rights.

3& The Ancient Vale of Ledene

The naming ofEvesbatch (at the upper reaches of the vale) has been considered by some to derive from Esa,s stream walley. This would suggest that the river, in early times, was called Esa' s Stream.

The Saxons named the river vale Ledene in reference to the broad stream and locality. First mention of Ledene appears. in a charter of 972 when King Edgar confirmed the possessions of the great abbey at . Another charter, for Redmarley in 978, also mentions Ledene. This clearly indicates that the name predates the influence of the Norman Conquest.

However, Normans were influencing the area when, under the rule of Edward the Confessor, the lands were administered by Edward's Norman nephew Ralph who was created Earl of Hereford. Other Normans were also encouraged by Edward to settle in the area. A contingent of Norman soldiers and household servants supported Earl Ralph at Hereford and several defensive castles which were constructed to defend against the borders with Wales. It has also. been considered that King Edward politically positioned these ally's to support him against the jealous advances of G~dwine and his son Harold who, on Ralph's death 21 December 1057 (lies in ) took possession of the earldom ofHerefordshire.

During the times of Edward the Confessor, who much enjoyed hunting in the area, a considerable portion of the agricultural lands were passed into the administration of the Church. At the subsequent Norman Conquest of 1066~ much larger estates in the Vale were additionally dedicated to ecclesiastical institutions. ·

Up stream is Bosbury, the Saxon name meaning Bosa's fort. Bosa was the name of a scribe mentioned in a charter of 833 as being in the service of King Witlaf of Mercia. The Saxon bishops of Hereford had a palace at Bosbury. The town ofLedbury dating back to the eighth century may be so named after Ledene's fort. In the it is named Liedeberge.

Dymock, of Roman origiri, was likely called Macatoniuin or Magalonium which can be taken to mean 'place on the noble stream'. This may suggest they knew the river as Magalonia. Dymock may have derived from Din-Mac, meaning 'the fort ofMacatonium.

The manor estate of Ledene, made up of modem day Upleadon and Highleadon, was granted by William the Conqueror to Walter de Lacy, who then presented it to the Abbey of St Peter at Gloucester. The mill, recorded in the Domesday Book, probably stood where one remains today. An iron forging industry driven by water, first recorded some three hundred years ago, must have been considerable and today many local field'names retain references to that industry. The early village is no longer visable but the old church is on Saxon foundations and r.etains a Norman north doorway. The church building is considerably enhanced by a timber-framed tower of c 1500. · ·

The farm at Middletown was first recorded in 1347. Hay Farm nearby (from the O.E. haeg meaning enclosure) dates back before Domesday. Moat Farm precedes its mention in 1779. The manor ofHartpury (after Hardepirer) was first recorded c1155. The tithe-barn is from the fourteenth century and the church is ofNorman origin. It belonged to StPeter's Abbey and the 'Abbot's Place' became Hartpury Court. The Mill, also known as Highleadon Mill was owned by the monks until 1267 when the estate passed into manorial hands.

39 Ashleworth, nearby Hartpury, is dominated by a church and a group of monastic buildings formerly belonging to St Augustine's, Bristol. A huge tithe barn of some 125 feet long by 25 :ft broad is constructed mainly of oak and slated with Cotswold tiles. The barn was originally erected by abbot Newland about 1500. It was subsequently converted to a cowshed. Nearby is the old Court House, a graceful building with traceried windows, which is thought to have belonged to the Black Friars of Gloucester. The small church shows rebuilding in various old styles dating back to the Norman period.

At Maismore there traces, in several places, of a Roman road to and from Gloucester. Called Bar Lane it harks back to the wild boar that roamed the district. Lassington or Lessedune (lesser hill) was known for its venerable oak of 600 or more years which was finally removed in the 1960's.

Highnam, derived from Hyne-hamme gets its name from 'monks water meadow'. The monks were from StPeter's Abbey. Close by, at Over, the monks had a thriving vinyard. Gallows were set up at Over and one of the last to be hanged was John Davis aged 58 ofHighleadon, who was executed for sheep stealing in 1789.

The Church of StPeter, Gloucester

The original Benedictine monastery ofSt Peter was founded by Osric (of the Hwicce) a viceroy of King Ethelred, for both sexes under the control ofKyneburga, his sister. Upon the death of the third Abbess in 767 the building lay desolate until 823 when Beomulf, King of Mercia, rebuilt it and granted it to the secular canons. Two centuries later, according to Leland, King Cnut expelled the secular clerks for ill-living and on the advice ofWulfstan, Bishop of Worcester, immediately re-established it on a slightly different site, actually athwart the Roman wall. The fortunes of the house were low until the Norman Abbot Serlo began (in 1089) to erect the new church which was consecrated in 1100. Within a few years the number of monks had increased from ten to one hundred. An earthqualce and many serious fires, which damaged the church, and the incessant alterations of the fabric are too numerous to be taken into account

In 1541 by a charter of the King, the see of Gloucester was founded and the abbot's lodging became the bishop's palace. The Abbey Church of St Peter was in future to be known as the Cathedral of the Holy and Undivided Trinity of Gloucester.

Conclusion

In the mid II th century, King Edward's Norman nephew had been created earl of Hereford. The French-speaking earl, accompanied by a Norman retinue, was commanded to strengthen the defences2 against the Welsh border. Earl Ralph was defeated by a Welsh army which 3 destroyed Hereford . Ralph is said to have set about creating a pattern/method of defences 'of the Norman fashion'. The Vale and its highway were strategically important connections too and from Royal Gloucester. It is reasonable to assume that the region was identified as LeDene. References to the river would have been to "the river of LeDene". Likewise the woodlands were simply referred to as the forest, hence it became known as the "Forest ofLe Dene".

2 Some of which may have originally been developed by Ethelflreda 'Our Lady of the Mercians'. 3 24 October 1055 King GruffYdd ap Llewelyn (d.l 063) assisted his outlawed father-in-law, Earl lElfgar of Mercia, accompanied by Irish troops to reinstate lElfgar's earldom. NB. JEifgar's widowed daughter Queen Ealdgyth later married King Harold, in 1065, to unite the Mercians under his kingship.

40 Ancient Ledene A Chronicle ofUpleadon Village

In the Saxon period, before the Norman Conquest, there was a small village at what is now called Upleadon. A hall, church, large bam, agricultural and administration buildings of mainly wooden construction would have dominated the site. Possibly two mills operated to service the community. This manor and administered estate the Saxons had named Ledene.

A relatively large agricultural estate stretched southerly along the river vale to the area now known as Rudford and may have included parts of what is now Hartpury: Within the southern region was an early religious settlement, probably associated with a similar settlement at Highnam. They were probably administered from the pre-Benedictine monastery at Gloucester. It is significant that both of these establishments are similarly titled. Highleadon is derived from being n.amed Hyneledene and Hynehamme later became commonly known ~s Highnam.

The religious house at Hyneledene was supported by lay brothers formed a small hamlet that predated the existing hamlet that developed in the seventeenth century. The old hamlet centered on a Grange which eventually became the administrative Court of its own manor estate. Between the the manors ofUpleadon and Highle1;1qon was the small agricultural settlement known, typically for its location, as 'Middletowne'.

Along the highway linking the linear estate of Ledene were three or possibly four 'green' areas of open pasture that provided additional sustenance to this drovers route to Gloucester and beyond. Each green contained ponds to provide drinking water for animals and men. The green at Highleadon, before enclosure, was a very large area of pasture. Encroachments onto the Green were made by agreement before the laws of the land prevented such developments Oil 'common' land. At the far end of the Gre~n, before the crossing at Redeford, was an inn to put-up travellers and would possibly house drovers overnight in an outside bam. Much of the property remains, now as a cottage called 'Green End'.

In early Saxon times the Mercian princes governed these lands. Shortly before the Norman Conquest, the region was administrated from Hereford by Earl Ralph, the Norman nephew of Edward the Confessor. On Ralph's death in 1057, Herefordshire passed to Harold, who held the locality until his death at Hastings in 1066. It is reasonable to assume that the manorial lord of Ledene and his small retinue may have been destroyed at York or at Hastings in support of the King.

A great amount of the agricultural lands, even before the Conquest, had already been given over to the Church and remained under ecclesiastical administration until the mid-sixteenth century. It is reckoned the Templars may have held 800 acres in Upleadon.

Summary ofVCH Record for Highleadon (Ledene or Leadon's Court) Manor

1 's four-hide estate called Ledene in 1086 was centred on Upleadon . Although included in leases ofUpleadon Manor, in the late Middle Ages, Highleadon2 formed part of the abbey's Highnam estate3 before emerging as a separate manor called 4 Leadon or Leadon's Court and held ofHighnam manor . The abbey received piecemeal gifts

1 Domesday Book (Rec.Com.) 1, 165v Upleadon 2 TNA, SC 6/Hen VIW1248, rot.14;see Valor Eccl.ll, 409. 3 Tax, Eccl. 171. 4 GA, D326ffl29;Inq.p.m.Hen VII pp470-l. and grants of land in Highleadon, notably in the 1230's a hide from Richard ofWigmore,5 whose estate included a chief messuage and land that John of Grove and others held before 6 him had held from the abbey by the service of an esquire .

The manor of Leadon or Leadon' s Court became vested in the Hartland family, of whom 7 William granted land in Leadon to his son William in 1444 . Under the will ofWilliam Hartland ( d.150 1) the manor passed to his son Thomas and next to his grand daughters Agnes 8 (or Ann), wife of William Hughes, and Katherine .

In 1524 Katherine and her husband Robert Griffith of Monmouth mortgaged half of it to John Arnold ofHighnam. John, to whom Robert's son Hugh released his reversionary right in 1529, also acquired the other half that had passed to Walter Hughes ofLantilio9 Crosseny (Mon). At John's death in 1545 his widow Isabel retained the manor10 and Leadon's Court descended with his Highnam estate, 11 passing by marriage to Sir Thomas Lucy ( d.l605)12 who also acquired the former abbey estate in Upleadon, 13 and Sir William Cooke ( d.1618), whose son Robert14 sold High1eadon in 1621 to Sir William Guise of Elmore.

William's grandson Christopher Guise was in possession in 1652,15 he acquired a baronetcy in1661. After his death in 1670,16 Leadon 's Court descended in direct line to Sir Williatn Guise (d.17.83i7 although in 1719, when Sir John Guise was lord,18 Edward.Cooke ftranted a lease of a cottage on waste land in Highleadon by virtue of his lordship ofHighnam. 9 Sir William, underwhom Highleadon Court, the site of the manor, was held with 219a~,20 left the estate to John Guise ofHighnam,21 John who became a baronet on his inheritance from his cousin, died in 1794 and his son Sir Berkeley William Guise/2 who inherited more than half of Highleadon,23 sold Highleadon Court arid the rest of the estate there in 1808 to Joseph Need of Castle Morton (Worcs.). Joseph (d.l810)was succeeded by his son William, following whose bankruptcy, in 1822,24 Highleadon Court was sold with an estate including the manor. 25 Ann Wicks of Cheltenham owned the Court with land in Rudford and Newent in 183326 and after her death in 1841 27 it passed to Richard Wicks. After his death it was· advertised for sale, with the manor, in 1858.28 William Viner Ellis owned the estate in 1879 29 30 and George Viner Ellis, his successor, retained it in 1910. · · ·

5 Hist.& Cart Mon. Glouc.I, 92-3, 123, 376-.86. 6 Ibid.I, 335-6 7 BL, Add. Ch.75659 8 Cal.Inq.p.m.Hen. VII, TI, pp470-1 9 GA,D 326/T 129;TNA C1/603, no18 10 TNA, c 142/73, no 74. 11 For John's descendants and Highnam, see VCH Glos. X, 18-19. 12 See Herefs. RO, EI2/G/20, deed 13 Oct 1636. 13 Below Upleadon manor see Cal.Pat.l594-5, p9; GA,D936/E 12/1, ff.l59-61 ;TNA, C66/1151 ,inm.24-8 14 TNA;C142/378, no 146;see GA, D326/T114. 15 GA, D326/T 114;D640/T 121. 16 Complete Baronetage, 111, 218; see GA, D326/T22. 17 Cal.SP Dem.1696, 154;GA, Dl501, Highleadon deed 1732-1824. For.the Guises seeElmore;VCH 18 Bodleian, Rawl. B323, fl23. · ' 19 GBR, Jl/1994D; See Bodleian, Top. Glouc. C,3,f 198V 20 GA, D 326/E 79. 21 Ibid. Dl50 1, Highleadon deeds 173 2-1824. 22 VCH Glos. X, 19. 23 Rudge, Hist ofGlos.II, 44. 24 GA, D 1501, Highleadon deeds 1732-1824; D5412/III/84 25 See Glouc. Jnl 9 Sept. 1816. 26 GA D2202 27 VCH Glos. X 147; TNA, PROB 11/2027, f250. 28 GA, D, 149/E43; The Times, 9 Jtme 1858. 29 Kelley's Dir. Glos. (1879 and later edns); GA, GNE 160/5/1-2

2 John Hardwick, whose father had farmed at Highleadon Court, acquired the estate later. He was dead by 192631 and in 1930 his widow Emily sold the Court to Ella, wife of Darrell Wallace Isaacs?2 She offered the estate for sale in 1939?3

Upleadon Manor

Upleadon manor represented by an estate called Leadon (or Ledene) given by Walter de Lacy (d. I 085) to Gloucester abbey and assessed for four hides in 1086. The abbey, which held the estate of the Mortimers, earls of March, for a knight's fee in the late 14th and early 15th century, leased its manor with a grove in Hartpury to John Arnold ofHighnam in 1536. After the Dissolution, the Crown retained the manor until1599 and following its sale to John Burges and Hironymous Cocke, it was acquired by Sir Thomas Lucy ( d.1605) to whom the lease, granted to John Arnold, had descended.

Sir Thomas sold the demesne in 1602 but evidently retained the manorial rights. They presumably passed with the manor ofLeadon or Leadon's Court in Highleadon but, although John Guise was entitled to a chief rent in the late 18th century, their ownership became unclear. In the early 18th century Thomas Browne, owner ofUpleadon Court, was said to be lord. The dean and chapter of Gloucester, accorded that status later, owned the impropriation.

Upleadon Court

Occ11pies the site ofthe manor held by the Keys family under a lease granted by Gloucester abbey in 1522. In 1602 John Keys bought the Site and demesne from Sir Thomas Lucy and in 1627 his son John Keys sold the estate to Henry Browne, a London clothworker and his wife Elizabeth. The estate, which under Henry (died by 1648) was sequestered for his opposition to Parliament during the Civil War, passed to his son Thomas Browne of Gloucester. Thomas died in 1663 and his son Thomas, who was appointed an Alderman of Gloucester in 1687, enlarged the estate, by purchasing from Henry Nourse in 1700, a farm that had belonged to the Lucy family.

Thomas, who died in 1730, left the estate to Thomas Hammond of Somersham (Hunts) who, by will proved 1748, left it to his sister Amy, wife ofthe physician Noel Broxholme (d.1748) of Hampton Court (Middx) and widow ofWilliam Dowdswell (d.1728). Amy died in 1754 and the estate, including the lease of the impropriate rectory, passed to her son William Dowdswell. William, who had inherited Pull Court in Bushley (Worcs.), was MP for Tewkesbury 17 4 7-54 and for W orcestershire from 17 61 and was Chancellor of the Exchequer in 1765 and 1766. He died in 1775 and the Upleadon estate, which had passed to his son Thomas, had been sold by 1794 to John Foley, Vicar ofNewent.

John died in 1803 and on the death of his widow Elizabeth in 1824, the estate passed to his daughters Eliza (d.1843) and Anne Mary (d.l850). On the death of the latter's husband, Reverend Richard Hodges in 1866, the estate passed to .her son Richard John Hodges ( d.1881) whose trustees sold it in 1882 as the Upleadon Court estate (504a) to John Dearman Birchall of Bowden Hall, Upton St. Leonards. He died in 1897 and his son and heir John Dearman Birchall, who had become an MP for (Yorks. WR) and been knighted, purchased several neighbouring farms but later sold them after the First World War. Upleadon Court was purchased by Ernest Cloke in 1921 and sold in 1937 to Ernest Henry Dunn.

30 GA, D2428/l/24 ffl4-15. 31 Ibid G/NE 160/5/3; see ibid. reg. wills 1906,£47 and V. 32 Ibid. D2299/3404. 33 Ibid. 7055.

3 Medieval Ledene

Finberg's Early Chatters of the West Midlands advise us that in the mid-eleventh century the eastern boundary of the diocese of Hereford (1012-56) 225; turned up the river Leadon, which in the thirteenth century still divided the dioceses of Hereford and Worcester.

When the West Midlands was divided into shires, after the Danish Wars, then Herefordshire and Gloucestershire first followed the same boundaries, i.e. Herefordshire extended to the Severn and to the Leadon. In Cnut's reign the estate ofLedenewas in Herefordshire, but by 1086 the Forest and areas including Botloe Hundred were annexed to Gloucester. For secular purposes they remained in the Hereford diocese until 1541.

After the Norman Conquest of 1066 the Ledene estate belonged to Roger, son of William FitzOsbern, earl of Hereford. At his rebellion the property was confiscated and given by William I to Walter de Lacy who gave it to StPeter's abbey, Gloucester in 1080.

Hart (ed) History et Cart. Mon. Gloucester listed donations from 1080 onwards: 92 1080 Walter de Lacy gave lands to StPeter's confirmed by William I, this was done at Berkeley in the time of abbot Serlo. (this included his lands at Rudford AS) 125Richard de Wygmore gave to StPeter's all his lands in Hyneledene which he bought from the heirs of Geoffrey de Ledene. He gave these lands to the abbey in perpetuity. 318 John de Grove, by assignment of his wife Mabel, eldest daughter of Geoffrey de Ledene, for 7 marks and a gift to Mabel of 5/- granted to Richard de Wygmore all his land in Ledene, with capital messuage, for an annual rent of 1d at Easter for all service. The abbot in chief, lord of the fee.

At 1086, Domesday, the abbey held four hides at UpLedene, the tenants held their land in return for honey. In lordship = 2 ploughs, 8 villagers, 1 smallholder and 8 ploughs 4 slaves, a mill at 4/-, 10 acres of meadow, 2 leagues x 2 furlongs of woodland.

Earliest mention ofthe church at Upleadon is by Gilbert Foliot (bishop 1148-63) formerly abbot of StPeter 1139-48: he consecrated the chapel and cemetery and ordained the church to be a chapel to the abbey church and pay only customary chapel dues. The north doorway is part of the original church ..

·1195-6 Sir Roger de Staunton gave free use of the water of the Lead on and Clenche to supply the abbey mill, for which the prior and cellarer gave him 3 marks silver and a palfrey. In 1337 there was contention between Rob~rt de Staunton and the monks over the use of water; in a survey or extent of manors ofU'L and H'L.

1231 Hugh de Foliot (bishop 1231 A) confirmed the tithes [at Upleadon] to the abbot and also two garbs of the tithing of the tenants. NB. After the Dissolution some tithes were given to the Dean & Chapter of Gloucester; the rest of the tithes and the free chapel were given by to John Farnham in 22 Eliz., She then, in 40 Eliz., gave to John Burgess and Jerome Corke, and in 1885 they were belonging to J. Dearman Birchall of Bowden Hall, Glos. Free tenants of the abbot: Richard de Barbe holds 0.5v and owes no works or suit of court. Walter Barbe has 0.5v of the fee of Richard de Barbe above and owes no service. The parson ofRudford holds 12 acres, paying 12d at Annunciation and Michaelmas. Roger Molendarius (miller) has a fishpond below Rudford church, for his life, paying 3(- at the same.

4 All customruy tenants ofRudford had land called 'Scharlande' by will of the lord, paying 2/1 at the same. Walter Freprior held a messuage and curtilage in Rudford by the lord's will, paying 9d at same and suit of court. William dele Frenshe at Hyneledene holds one messuage and curtilage for 8d at Michaelmas. Henry de la Forde holds 6 acres at Ledene, paying 12d at Annunciation and Michaelmas. He owes suit of court for all service at the mansion in Ledene formerly of Geoffrey de Ledene. Robert de Ledene holds 1 caruc, paying 12d at Annunciation arid at Michaelmas. He also owes service of 1 squire if summoned, or send another in his place, with horse and harness. Service is worth 1Os yearly. He owes suit to the courts of Highnam and Gloucester. Robert Faber ofHyneledene gives 12d yearly for his messuage.

Hart Charters; p385 no 408: Milisanda, relict of Geoffrey de Ledene quitclaims 1lb pepper her husband received from Richard le Sage in fee and inheritance he has in parish of St Mary, before the great door of Gloucester abbey; which he gave and confirmed by charter to Richard de Wygemore and heirs; which all his tent of Ledene, that was of her husband and next heirs, he bought and was seised of.

1263-4 (3385-6 no 409) Abbot of StPeter's grants to William of Acle, son of William de Acle, 1virgate in UpLedene manor, that which Walter de la Hay held, for his life and that of his wife Maud, for 1 mark payable in portions of% at each offour terms (per year) for all service and secular demands, except suit at UpLedene court with the other free tenants. Reversion to the abbot- William has paid 1OOs.

1284 Reference made by the abbot John de Gamages, to new houses built at UpLedene.

1287 Abbot claimed warren in Ledene, Yndeledene and Rudeford- the Sheriff to enquire.

1327 Franklin (ed) Lay Subsidy Roll ( 1993) 'The Taxpayers ofMed. Gloucestershire' p.86 no 330 Ledene:

John le Stonheware 21.5d Total Names for Botloe Lawrence de la Hay 18d Hugh le Frend 17d Ledene = 14 HenryFymon 19.25d Rudford = 6 William de la Hale 2s 2d Tibberton = 21 Felic. De Ia Hulle lld Huntley = 7 Nicholas de Wruyhulle 12-5d Taynton = 20 Alice la Smyth 12d Little Taynton = 9 JohnAylzot 17-25d Newent = 105 Siward Michel 9d Oxenhall = 23 John ateRak 12d Kempley = 15 Henry le Bonde 4s0d Bromsberrow = 18 William ate Hay 3s Od Pauntley = 27 John le Portman 3s Od Total 24s 7.5d

1333 (20 October) Licence for the abbot of StPeter (abbot John Wygmore) to impark 84.5 acres of arable, grove and uncultivated land in UpLedene. Cal. Pat. 7 Edw.ill, pt 2 m.14 (Manors;Econ.; Soc: Intra Hackaday Abs. CCCLXXXIV)

1337 Several new houses at Ledene were built for Abbot J de Gurneyes.

1337 Grievance, (documented in French) by the abbot and convent v Robert de Staunton, lord of Staunton. The abbot is many times aggrieved and disturbed by Staunton - who interferes

5 with the river (Leadon) which runs to their mill in Upledene manor. It is claimed that Staunton, by his writing, granted to the abbot, that they could freely come, go, carry, 'tote les fiezes' of the aforesaid '!ewe debruise sus le pree ' 'par cretine ou en autre manere cele bruise estoper'.

1345 Walter Hay ofUpLedene was ordained 'landavensis' of the diocese.

1348 John de Ia Medwede ofUpleadon 'lepr' of the hospital ofSt John of Jerusalem.

1399 Livery given to El~at1or, late wife of Roger de Mortimer, earl-of March and Ulster, of her dower in: 1 fee in 'Ledene' formerly held by the abbot of Gloucester at 100/-.

1426 Inquiry into Edmund, earl of March --c- 1 fee in UpLedene which the abbot held.

Military Survey Of Gloucestershire (BGAS)

1522 Muster Roll ofLedene:

Lands Goods Weapons a) William Keys 40s £10 glaive a) John Clerk £20 sallet, glaive, dagger William Clerk on the hill £7 glaive, dagger a) Thomas Mors 53/4 . glaive William Cuffe £4 glaive John Chedworthe 20/- glaive John Crouse 20/- Henry Crouse £6 13/4 glaive, sword Thomas Brodford 43/4 bow, arrows, glaive a) Hugh Brodford 20s £3 Robert Crouse 20/- bow, arrows a) John Halyday 20/- halberd William Clerk of Hay £5 glaive, dagger William Smyth 20/- glaive a) Humphrey Gosselyng £5 glaive, sword, dagger John Rocke £4 glaive John Rocke jun. 40/- a) John Heyward £5 bow, arrows, sword, dagger Henry Baldewyn Bow, arrows William Twynning £11 sword, glaive, dagger John Kynges £5 sallet, glaive, dagger James Williams Is rector worth £6 £12 a)= able glaive =staffed weapon of Halberd type. sallet = short brimmed helmet extending over back of neck, sometimes with a visor.

1536 Muster Roll = 17 men assessed at Upleadon

1539 Muster Roll = 25 men assessed at Upleadon

1542 Muster Roll = 30 men assessed at Upleadon.

6 1535 St. Peter's Abbey, Gloucester (Valour Bee!. [Rec. Com.] 409.(1814) Up leaden and Highleaden- custom rents of assize £20-/6.25. Farm of Site ofUpleaden manor with demesne lands £6 -13/4 Farm of Site of Highleaden manor with demesne lands 46/8 Rent of a pasture called Heringrove 21~ Sale of customal works 28/1.5 Perquisite of court 7/- Outgoings: Fee of Maurice Hale, bailiff and rent collector 26/8 Total Value= £29 16/5.25

Sixteenth Century Rental ofUpleaden and Highleaden.

Upleaden Highleaden

William Keys for farm £6 13/4 Thomas Well 8/­ William Keys pasture at Corney rowe 2/- Harry Keys 8/­ William Keys pasture at Long Hedge 20d Thomas Drew 8/­ James Knolle for mill 40/- Thomas Brache 11/­ Thomas Giere 37/- HenryWelle 3L8 ? Syssemore 17/- William Bond 211- Thomas Haywarde 28/- ThomasRoke 16/8 Humphrey Gosllyng 19/- William Pryggell 20/- Thomas Holyday 11/5 Robert Crowys 8/- Hugh Bradford 17/6 William Clerk of the Hill 23/4 William Cowfe 14/- Maud Chedworthe 14/- Marg. Crowys 15/- Marg. Crowys for Herryng Grove 2/- Thomas Bradford 8/11 Walter Clerke 14/6 £23 2/8

Chief rent of Leadon Comte 2/­ Rob ?Bole £10 6/8 ? Mar? Sale 26/8 £9-0

1536 The manors ofUpleaden and Highleaden were entirely demised to John Arnold by idre. Ofthe.abbot, dated 8 October 28 Henry VITI for 90 years at rent of £36- 16d.

1542 (Manors; Econ. L & P Hen.Vill, XVII p488, g881 (20) A grove called Snedgrove in Hartpury manor forming a part parcel cifUpleaden, formerly of the abbot ofSt Peter to William Morgan ofHempsted, Gloucestershire, for 21 years, with reservations. Leased to him on 16 March 33 Hen. VITI [1542]. The reversions and reserved rents now granted to the mayor and burgesses of Gloucester.

7 1573 Proceedings concerning Regina v John Scudamore and tenants and the occupiers of the manor ofUpleaden alias Temple Court? This document may relate to Upleadon, Hereford?

1599 (GRO, P346/1N/3/1 bundle) Copy patent roll grant by Eliz.I dated 18 Oct.41 Eliz. To John Burges and Jerome Cocke. Reciting grant of 11 Feb 40 Eliz. [1598] by which she gave Sir Thomas Lucye, George Lucye and William Lucye, his sons, the whole site ofUpleaden manor with all arable, meadows, etc., reserving perquisites of court, woods, underwoods and demesne lands, them being in the hands of certain farmers; also the herbage of two groves called Cornegrove and Elmengrove; and the Longe Hedge; and watermill called Up leaden mill etc., then or lately in the tenure or occupation of William Keyse, his wife Elizabeth and their son Roger, or their assigns; demised to them for 80 years by indenture of the abbot dated 5 September 4 Hen.Vill. These were parcel of the manor and were demised to Lucye for· life, with remainders to George and Thomas for their lives.

Recital ofLP leasing the manor ofHighleaden to John Arnold for 90 years from 13 October 28 Hen.VIII [1536 to 1626]. _in return for £1,792-9s-3d Burges and Cocke receive, in perpetuity, the whole manor of Upleden and all messuages, lands, tenements, woods, groves, mills, courts leet, fines, heriots, amerciaments etc., and all that grove called Snedgrove in Hartpury; and all views of frankpledge, glebe lands, tithes pertaining to the manors ofUpleden and Highleden, the capital messuag and tenement called Sherwood Hall and the mill; especially reServing all advowsons appendent to Upleden and Highleden. To hold the honour of Hampton Court for service of 40th fee and not in chief.

1601 (GRO, C 3/278/6) Deed of court proceedings re disputed possession Sir John Keyse, plaintiff, was seised of the manor and lordship ofUpledene in right to St · Peter's abbey between the abbot and William Keyse, wife Elizabeth and son Roger and all lands etc., for 81 years. And by another (Hen. VIII) between abbot and William Michell of Gloucester- the reversion of pieces of pasture etc., - after the deaths of William and Elizabeth, their son Roger was lawfully seised. Lucy obtained the property by pretence. !1·

1606[7] 24th January Chancery proceedings (RefC3/279/11 damaged document at GRO) Sir Thomas Lucy, son and heir of Sir Thomas Lucy, complainant v John ? Franke. Lucy was 4 seised of the manor of------& meadows therein called Wynniard? -- Marg. Prior, daughter of-- the late Sir Nicholas Arnold -lawfully begotten --- Joyce, wife of Sir William Cooke --­ space of 20 years a demise (except manor house and demesne of :Highnam and the manor house and demesne ofUpleadon -- an indre whereby Sir Thomas Lucy--- a demise be made whereby parcels of the land and manor --- 60 years - Sir William Cooke and his wife Dame Joyce, are not to impeach or trouble Sir Thomas Lucy or his lessee, By idre of 20th March 41 Eliz. [1599] Sir Thomas Lucy -let to --- half the pasture ground or meadow on the north side of Wynniard for 18 years for £4 yearly. And by another of the same date between the same parties, let to Franke the other half------(undecipherable).

1619 lOth October [17 James I] 1. Robert Cooke ofHighnam, son and heir of Sir William Cooke and his wife Joyce 2. John Cooke and John Raymond To assure and convey the estates to the uses intended, it is agreed that before St James the Apostle next, 2., will pursue a Chancery writ ofv. manors including Leadon Court ofLeadon, and that a common recovery may be had.

34 This probably relates to the ancient vineyard formerly maintained by the monks of Gloucester.

8 1621- 1652 Sale of lands at Highleaden

Christopher Guise of Marsdon to Richard Poulton ofHartpury for £560. Sold the Long Moor and Smarts Flocks, c15 acres of meadow in Highleaden. Formerly part of the manor, capital messuage or farm of Leaden alias Leaden Court belonging to his grandfather Sir William Guise who bought it from Robert Cooke later knighted, Sir Edw. Verney, Sir Oliver Lucy, John Cooke, Edw.Cooke and John Raymond, by idre of20 June James I [1621].

Afterwards settled on son William Guise who is now in possession of them by a reeovery. 31 December 1652

1628 20th October (4 Chas.I) Lease

Dean and chapter, Gloucester leased to Edward Nurse of Gloucester, gent., the service of the curate at the Up leaden chapel, the mansion house there and all the glebe land, and one-third of the tithes of com and grain, all the tithes of hay, and some other tithes, for 21 years, at 4d per annum.

1636-7 Ship Money Tax ofUpleadon

Browne, gent or Will Addis £5-10s William Hill 18s John Whatts or his tenant £1-5s Nurse or his tenant £1-0s Thomas Jelfe or his tenant 7s John Mayoe 14s John Bradford or his tenant 9s William Butter 8s

1639 The corn mill at Upleadon was converted for iron working.

1643 (The Civil War; Reference by BGAS 10,239 publ. 1885-6) During the siege of Gloucester 1643, the Royalists under Lord Herbert, fought their way across the Forest of Dean and camped near 'Barber's Bridge' at a ford, then called Highleadon, which connected Rudford with Highleadon Hamlet. The ford changed hands several times during the Civil War. The Parliamentarians encamped on a large field on the left of the road as you pass over Highleadon Green to Upleadon. In a small inclosure of common, in angle between road to Newent and that to Upleadon, is a small white cottage called Camp House, which was the HQ of the force guarding the ford.

On 24th March 1643, Colonel Massie, leading a Parliamentarian force, attacked Royalist forces stationed in the vicinity. Local tradition says many Welsh Royalists were killed· at the ford. 400-600 bodies are said to be buried nearby. In 1868 many skeletons were uncovered.

1655 The mill at Upleadon was mortgaged to Foley's, the leading ironmongers of the period.

9 1662 Upleadon Hearth Tax made by William Clarke, constable.

John Watts 2 William Watts 3 John Clarke 2 John Tuchenice 1 Robert Pride 2 Jane Hill, widow 3 Richard Pitt 4 Thomas Grindon 1 Roger Jelfe 1 William Clarke 2 William Thayer 2 Richard Mann 1 Edward Davis 1 John Priour 2 Roger Clarke 2 Elizabeth Rely 1 Roger Jelfe 1

1663 4°' August [15 Chas.II] Dean and chapter lease to Edward Nurse og Gloucester, gent., Upleadon rectory, parsonage with all buildings, glebe and all tithes, both predial and personal, for 21 years at £3-10/- per annum. 16Ut November 1680 [32 Chas.II] the dean & chapter leased the same premises to Henry Nurse of Gloucester, for 21 years at the same rent. 8°' May 1689 [1 William & Mary] leased again to Henry Nurse, rent unchanged. 1st September 1697, the lease was extended to Henry Nurse, rent unchanged.

1668 Reference to property sold, by Anthony Arnold and John Cru·eles, to Thomas Browne. 1 messuage, 1 cottage, 2 water com mills, cl73 acres arable, 48 acres meadow, 140 acres pasture, 10 acres water, 1 garden, 1 orchard all in Upleadon. Cons £300.

1669 [5 March, 21 Chas.II] 1. Thomas Browne son and heir of Thomas Browne son and heir of John Browne, clothworker, by his wife Elizabeth, daughter of Thomas Marsham. 2. Anthony Arnold, John Careles In Michaelmas last past 1. levied a fine to 2. for: Uplead on farm; Site of capital messuage of Upleadon manor and all premises as in D2957/320/2 to bert of 2. Total 173 acres. .

Relates to an Agreement- 3 June 1704 (3 Anne) Nathaniel Watts ofUpleadon conveyed to Thomas Browne messuages, cottages and land in Upleadon purchased by his father from his uncle John Watts: House and lands called the Doles.

1671 Upleadon Hearth Tax

John Clerke 2 Widow Hill 3 Samuel Dally 2 William Watts 3 Widow Watts 2 William Cook 4 John Treheme 2 --- Brodford 1 N atthanial Watts 1 Discharged by legal court: Thomas Gydall 1 Davis senior and junior 2 Robert Jelfes 1 Perkins senior and junior 2 John Pry 2 William Twinning · 1 Widow Wheler 1 Widow? 1 John Pitt 3 Widow Melierd l 29 7

10 1678 Conversion of fee

1. William Molyneaux, son and heir of Sir Caryll Molyneauz Bt.Viscount Molyneaux, and his wife Bridget, daughter and heir of Henry, lord Arundel ofWardour Castle and his wife Mar. 2. Henry Nourse for £250, paid to Molyneaux and his wife to sell the farm and the land in the late occupation of Thomas Grindon in Upleadon.

1678 301h April- Assignment

1. Richard Hoskins, narrow weaver, and his wife Elizabeth daughter of William Hill the elder ofUpleadon, deceased. 2. James watts ofUpleadon, clothier, and Mary, one of his daughters and coheirs of William Hill the younger, deceased, son and heir of that William Hill. 3. Nathaniel Watts ofUpleadon, yeoman.

By lease of22 April 1650, William Hill, the elder, granted to his daughters Elizabeth and Mary (now deceased) Bun Meadow, 2 acres of meadow, to hold for 200 years from his death, at a yearly rent of 1d. 1., as Mary's survivors, are now in possession of her share. For £43, 1., by consent of 1., assign the remainder ofthe term to 3.

1684 William Clarke, yeoman, buried sth November, aged 90 years. The Tithes and Site of the manor belong to Gloucester Abbey. ·

1700 20th November [12 William.ll] Dean & chapter of Gloucester leased to Thomas Clarke ofUpleadon, yeoman, their messuage in Upleadon alias Highleadon, late in the occupation of William Merrick with; Newlands, a close of 15 acres; the Hill field, a close of 27 acres; Little Meadow, 2 acres meadow; Great Meadow and a small parcel called the Langett adjacent it, together 10 acres; another meadow adjacent Great Meadow called Over Meadow, of 6 acres; Oxlease, a close of 2acres pasture; all in Highleadon, For 21 years at £20 per annum.

1702 23rd May Dean & chapter of Gloucester leased to Thomas Browne, Alderman of Gloucester, the Upleadon rectory, parsonage, glebe and tithes for 21 years at £3-10-4d per annum.

1709 251hMay Dean & chapter issued same lease of same prertiises for 21 years at same rent.

1716 27th November [3 Geo.I] Dean & chapter renewed the same lease for 21 years at the same rent.

1723 26th November, the lease was agreed at the same rent for 21 years.

1738 21st October, the dean & chapter leased the rectory, parsonage, glebe and tithes to Thomas Hammond for 21 years at £3-I0-4d per annum.

17 45 13th November, the lease was agreed with the same arrangements and same rent for 21 years.

11 1710 25th May Lease/release of Richard Drew to Thomas Browne, Alderman of Gloucester, land in Rudges Field Upleadon at Eden Hill.

1735 9th December Sale of lease at Upleadon Upleadon Manor, two good farms, iron forge, tenements and tithes, orchard and coppice, in all 500 acres at £288 rent.

1739 27111 October, Terrier of William Bolton's estate at Highleadon, endorsed 18th July 1757. Rent is £50 per annum. 70 acres, of which 50 acres are arable and the rest are pasture and meadow. Messuage and tenement, stable, wain-house, mill-house. 7 bays of building, yard and green, with highways north and south. Two closes, arable= Little and Great Newlands, 14 acres. Three closes, arable = Great and Little Hill and Hillside, 18 acres, with highways on north and south. One great Meadow and a Langett adjacent, 9.5 acres. The Over Meadow a close of 6 acres pasture. Oxleaze, alias Muncloft, a close of 4 acres pasture. Cold Dole a close of 6 acres pasture.

1752 16th December The dean and chapter of Gloucester leased to Amy Broxoline, widow ofBlackheath, the rectory, parsonage, glebe and tithes for 21 years at £3-10-4d per year.

1759 28111 November . . . The dean and chapter of Gloucester leased TO William Dowdeswell the rectory, parsonage, glebe and tithes for 21 years at £3-10-4d per annum.

1759 Reference to Thomas Holford, son and heir of Thomas Holford ofUpleadon: A subsequent reference (in 1834) is given to Thomas Holford, of Bath, balcer and bankrupt.

1766 Mr Dowdeswell holds the tithes on 580 acres at Upleadon, no one else, apart from the dean and chapter of Gloucester, has any right to tithes. Glebe etc. and.churchyard = 14.5 acres.

1767 29th June The dean and chapter of Gloucester agreed the lease of the rectory and tithes for 21. years at £3-1 0-4d as before.

' ' ' . . 17 69 William Dowdeswellletter to Mr Phillips, tenant, informs him .that there are no more than 534 acres of arable and 430 acres of pasture and meadow and that the Parish account to the deans records is very incorrect - The farmers threaten to convert arable to pasture to meet rating demands. Value of the tithes to be £580 p.a. ?

1774 25th February The dean and chapter of Gloucester agreed the lease (as before) to William Dowdeswell for the rectory, parsonage, glebe and tithes for another 21 years at £3-11-od perannum.

1780 181 December The dean and chapter of Gloucester agreed to lease to Bridget Dowdeswell, widow and guardian of her children, William, Edward, Christopher, John, Edw.and Caroline. A lease of the same premises, for 21 years, at the same rent And an additional rent of £10 per aM reconverted to A

1780 Survey of lands belonging to Benjamin Hyett in Upleadon, of which Mr Bruerton is tenant.

1787 181 December The dean and chapter of Gloucester agreed the same lease to Bridget Dowdeswell, for 21 years at the same rent payment, plus.

12 1789 Widow Tyler is replaced by J Tyler as tenant at Manor ofUpleadon.

1794 26th November Reverend John Foley leased from the dean and chapter of Gloucester, the rectory, parsonage, glebe and tithes for 21 years at £3-11-0d plus an additional rent of £10 per aM reconverted to A.

1801 30thNovember Upleadon rectory is leased for 21 years, to Reverend Foley, comprising Glebe, cottage, house and garden. Parsonage Croft, Wheelers, Priest Grove, Herring Wood and the Tithes. Rent at £4 per annum with additional payments. ·

1 19 h Century Upleadon Manor

From Gloucester Chronicle (26 October 1912 p.33) 'Glos. Villages and their Story' by G. Clinch, No 16. The approach to the church is past an old mill. There is 'rich woodland scenery'. The church contains 2 bells; Parson's of 1759 and a larger of 1800. Mentioned in Domesday, the church recently required £400 in repairs. The vicarage is one mile from the church. Vicar for 25 years Rev. C.R. Greaves, in 1888 built 'very pretty little mission school -conveniently placed for parishioners comfort and convenience' In the village, some cottages are abandoned. The church was formerly held by the church of St Mary de Crypt, Gloucester.

Upleadon Court, south of the church, is of late 18th century, brick, low gabled 17th century timber-framed west-wing. Late 18th century barn projects from north-east corner. ·

Bam to the north-west originates from 15th century; with three bays and stable/ oxhouse at .e.w bay may be of 17th or 18th century addition.

NOTES re 19th Century actions & descriptions

From Sir Thomas Lucy- 1711 with Thomas Browne, alderman of Gloucester 1719 with Mrs Amy Broxoline, widow of Blackheath Occupants: Manor Court Farm etc., Mr Hodges Estate Mr De Visme The Hay Mr Beale, since Beale Cooper Drewe Mr Hyett

Population ofUpleadon = 237 Population valued at £1571 (1815) Rateable value £2485 (1875)

The Village is one mile west of Court, centred on crossroads below Eden's Hill, with mid-19th century octagonal brick cottage. To the south east is the old vicarage, by William Railton, built in 1845. There is an early 20t11 century village hall; behind it is the National School of 1857 brick

1841 Census for Upleadon 53 Houses, all inhabited. Population = 13 5 males and 115 females, total = 250

1851 Census for Upleadon 46 Houses inhabited, 2 houses, uninhabited. 59 separate occupiers. Population = 130 males and 145 females.

Parsonage John Constable, curate 'Laughtons' Mr & Mrs Nurse

13 Poole Farm, Eden's Hill Ag. Labourers on relief StoneHouse Merret or Morrel family Drews Farm, Forge Lane Isaac Summers Baynton's, Man & servant with 100 acres 6labourers Middletown, William Wilkes. 100 acres 2labourers Eden's Hill William Pitts, sawyer

Hay Farm West family Leckford William Nelmes, fruiterer 4 serv/ labourers Eden's Hill Thomas Predith, bailiff The Court Robert Alloway 432 acres 23 labourers The Farm, The Wood, 230 acres Daniel Ford 24 acres Samuel Merret

A Wheelwright operates at Eden's Hill.

Land References (Inclosures 1840) Alfords, Eden's Hill, Forge Lane and Mill, Green Cottage (Upleadon Green) Grove House. (1327) Hay Farm; la Hay (gehaeg =enclosure) (1347) Middle town/ Middeltone/ Middle towne. (1840) Price Grove/ Priest Grove. The Rudges/ The Ridges (1605) Upleadon Court/Leadon Court.

Tithe Award references: Field Names Buckle bridge; Burnt meadow; Cinder field; Fortycastle mead; Green hay; Haystall; Hine Town; Horse plecks; Langett; Lewthorne; Litchford meadow; Moors; Newlands; Panecroft; Perry row; the Pleck; Portingales; Ridding; Sharlands; the Slade; Sunnner hill; Swinley field; Wainhouse. From a 1638 inquiiy misc.: Broadmeadow; Bunmeadow, Fishpoole; the Gale [gale= period rent inF.o.D., for digging minerals] Grosse crofts; Henngrove [surname]; Honylands; Redlands; Haystable [heg =hay]; Hynetowne [hiwan =household]; Moores; the Ridings; Ryland; Songlefield [prob for Songee =gleanings].

In 1848, Reverend Richard f{odges purchased nos.169 and 175 [Tithe map refs.] fromJohn W arr Phelps. Reverend Hodges died 1866 and the estate passed to his son Richard John Hodges, who in 1873 purchased from Samuel, Richard and William Merrett nos.63-6. In 1852, for nos.35 and 36, he exchanged no 43 with the dean and chapter of Gloucester. In 1878 he purchased from the Eccl. Corns. Nos. 16, 22, 32, 33, 34, 40, 41, 42 and 43. He died in 1881. The lands were to be sold in 1882, in five lots. A further sale took place in 1919.

1869 Sale advertising Middle Towne Farm, 86 acres freehold at Upleadon. The property includes Parsonage Ground, Redding, Wheelers and Little Hind Town, together with 21 a, Hind Town, Gross Croft, Rye land, Pitcher Field, the Moors, Home & Orchard, Cow Pasture & Rushy Meadow, the Pleck, land in Cold Meadow and in Hine Townfield.

Memorials ofUpleadon Villagers

The following is a copied list of inscriptions from tombstones uncovered when the chancel floor ofUpleadon church was raised in 1848. 'To the memory of Richard Drew, gent, died 1714 aged 48 and his wife Hester, died 1728 aged 63. John Kayse, gent, died 1622. Ann wife of John Keyse, gent, died 1639, they had 6

14 sons and 1 daughter JK, WK, GK, JK, SK, RK and EK. Mrs kn Hooke, daughter Of William Kayse who died 1662 ? Matthew Morris, yeoman, died 1712 age 56 and wife Joan, died the same year, age38, son John died 1713 aged 57? Sarah daughter ofWilliam Ha1e ofHartpury died 1713 aged 16. Memorial to David Fowler, died 1712 aged 21. Within the alter rails: Mary wife ofWilliam Watts, died 1681. Alicia Watts, widow, late wife of john watts ofLassington, died 1662. William watts ofUpleadon, died 17-aged 90. William Clarke, yeoman, died 1684 aged 96 William Clarke, yeoman, died 1720 aged 29 William Wattsjun.,died 1677 Mary, wife of William Palmer died 1715 aged 31 William Palmer (husband of above) died 1735 aged 54. Daughter Jane died 1728, aged 16. Daughter Anne died 1727 aged 1 and son Philip died 1734, aged 4.

1870 Upleadon

The Vicarage is held by Reverend Andrew Sayers. The 'Nationa1 School for Boys and Girls' is supported by the Vicar and the Mistress is Fanny Harris. Formerly considerable iron forges, are converted into com mills. The chief land-owner is Reverend Richard Hodges of Little Barrington, Ox on., also lord of the manor and lessee of the tithes worth £364, purchased from Bed. Corns., Gloucester, 1207 acres. Population in 1861 = 237. Places named include Drews, Beyton and Hay Farm. Moses Boulter- farmer at Eden's Hill William Clutterbuck, farmer at Lower House George Compton- farmer William Compton, farmer William Compton, jnr. - shoe maker William Hartland, farmer at Upleadon Court Thomas Jones, carpenter & wheelwright Willian1 Merrit, blacksmith & farmer Richard Merrit, blacksmith & wheelwright Henry Nunn, farmer at Eden's Hill Joseph Watkins, shopkeeper William Whittle, shopkeeper William Wood, basket maker

1 1878 25 h June, Sale advertised, by order ofEccl. Com. Lot 18 at Upleadon- 41 acre Farm, including Hearns Meadow, Ham Meadow, Orchard, House and buildings. Burrels Top, Burnt Hill, and brake. All in the occupation of John Halford until March 1879.

1878 Sale of household effects advertised, at Drews, the property of the late Mrs Ford.

1882 Declaration by Richard Henry Rigden, land agent for Upleadon Court estate since 1844. "With exceptions of some lands, the estate belonged from 1829 to Elizabeth Foley and her sister Anne Mary, wife ofReverend Richard Hodges. Elizabeth died 1843 and Anne in 1850. Before 1829 rents were paid to their father John Foley and then to his widow.

1882 Conveyance ofUpleadon Court Estate, with corn mill, 504 acres of land, by the Trustees of Richard John Hodges. (There is an Iron Forge and three tenements called Doles.

1895 27th July, Sale advertised, of Middletown Farm, 87 acres, in the occupation ofMr A.R. Shepherd (the property includes Cottage & garden). A sale of the above was made in 1897.

15 1902 31st May, Sale of Farm, the property ofP.H.Fisher, deceased, at Upleadon Lot No 2 -Eden's Hill, 99 acres in Newent, and The Crofts, 1.5 acres. Lot No 3 - Alfords Farm, 23 acres including the Langetts, House and gardens, Orchard and Lower Alfords, House & garden.

1914 Draft Lease ofUpleadon Court Farm to J.M. Scudamore reserving timber, trees, minerals & stone and game for five years at &50 per annum. The outgoing tenant is Mr Cloke.

1919 Sale of Drews 131 acres, Middletown and Baytons Farm 152 acres, Alcots 3 acres, with 4 cottages & gardens and woodland. Price Grove, oak wood, 4 acres and Eden's Hill plantation, 2 acres of larch and Scots fir.

1942 1ih June Upleadon Farm Surveys

Lower Farm, 113 acres- Farmer G.H. Clutterbuck, tenant Owner A Merchant (& Mrs Lawrence with 1. 7 5 acres)

Upper House Farm, 150 acres- Farmer W.J. Cox, tenant (with 2 cottages) Owner Mrs White, of Yorkshire

Drews Farm, 120 acres - Farmer W.N. Cox, tenant . . (with 2 cottages) Owner W. H Williams of Eden's Hill Farm, Upleadon

Bayntons Farm, 60 acres- Farmer P. Dobbs Owners Misses Godwin of Coleford

Upleadon Court Farm, 444 a- Farmer E:H. Dunn, tenant Owner himself

'Pretoria', 7.5 acres Farmer W.B. Heath Owner himself, Store-keeper ofHighleadon

Murcott Farm, 87 acres Farmer F.A Higgins, tenant Owner Geo. Reekes of Cranharn, Glos.

Glebe Farm, 73.5 acres Farmer & Part owner HP. Mayo Part Owner E. Rowse of Alfords, Upleadon

Middletown, 92.5 acres Farmer G.H. Norton Owners Misses Goodwin of Coleford

'Alfords', 14 acres. Owner Farmer E. Rowse

Eden's Hill Farm, 133 acres (with 4 cottages) Owner Farmer W.H Williams

Pt.Eden's Hill Farm, 10 acres Farmer A. Wainwright ofNewent, tenant Owner W.H Williams at E.HFarm

Little Corswalls, 9 acres Farmer E. Chester Owner: TtUstees of late Mrs BtUce

Eden's Hill Orchard, 1.5 acres Owner Farmer Mr Holloway

16 (with 1 pig and 58 fowls)

'Mount Ottawa', 2.5 acres Owner/ Occupier Mr F.W.C. Millsom

'The Cross' Owner/ Occupier Mr F.J. Hall

'Alcotts' Owner/ Occupier Mr William Edey

1982 Local Attractions at Upleadon

Baynton's Farm- cider made by horse-driven mill and hand-press. 'The Forge'- breeder of tropical birds. The Village Hall- formerly the old school-house. Eden's Hill- the smallest National Trust ground in England. Heron's Gate- private house. Middletown Farm- an attractive old farm. Okle Pitcher Mill (an old, unused water mill) 'Mount Ottawa' -garden centre. Upper House Farm- stables for hunters. Withydale Nursery- pot plants.

1 20 h Century Upleadon

The old manor estate remains largely agricultural. Open 'common' fields are enclosed and the extensive 'common' pasture has gone from Upleadon. Where once the 'Green' at Upleadon stretched all the way down to Highleadon, only some areas of verge now remain. Inclosures during the early part of the 19th century took most of the common to be cultured for arable crops. These areas can be traced on the tithe map as 'New Lands'. Several illegal encroachments are recorded, where the lands have been pt}rprestured and enclosed along the previously wide areas of grass verge.

The Bryant Map of Gloucestershire (1824) clearly indicates the very large area of Upleadon Green, extending from the top ofUpleadon all the way down to meet Highleadon Green at the drive into Highleadon Court.

Only remnants ofHighleadon Green (common land) remain today, amounting to 15.3 acres that were preserved by their registration under the 1965 Commons Registration Act. For some recent years, the 'Green' was neglected and allowed to become overgrown with thorn and bramble. Highleadon Green has now been adopted by a group of local volunteers, whose association can restore this ancient symbol, a small part of what was at one time the old estate ofLedene.

©Alan Shelley 'Wycken End' Boumside, Cheltenham 2004.

17 APPENDIX A

Church Records: Transactions ofthe Dean & Chapter of Gloucester (References relating to the Administration of the Highnam Estate)

1594 Offices of keeper ofthe bishop's palace and Woodward ofMaismore, Hartpury, Corse and Ashleworth.

15 98 Manor of Rudford (Fore-tenant Sir Thomas Lucie)

1615 Manor ofRudford (Fore-tenant Lady Constance Lucy ofHighclere, Hampshire)

1615 Woolridge stone quarry [Hartpury] Fore-tenant Walter Longe of Ashleworth

1615 Messuage and land at Highleadon; Owner/ fore-tenant; Thomas Weston ofSt Giles­ in-the-Fields, Middlesex; To Sir Thomas Lucy of Charlecote, Warickshire- Glos; Land had in exchange for the White Harte in Hoi borne, London.

1616 License to demolish an old kitchen and dairy at Highleadon Farm; To Thomas Baldwin ofHighleadon. (Reference also [E12/1 f,351v. at GRO] to licence to abolish buildings at Highleadon Farm, rendered superfluous by a reduction in the area farmed)

Gloucester, Dean and Chapter Lease Book (GRO [D936 E12/2] Entries for NW Glos.

1618 Manor ofRudford with William Lucy ofHighclere, Hampshire.

1626 Manor ofTibberton, Taynton and Bulley with John Jones of Gloucester.

1626 Receivership ofMaisemore etc. by Anthony Robinson and Simon Thelall. The office of Woodward ofWoolridge Woods in the parishes ofMaisemore, Hartpury, Corse and Ashleworth.

1628 Curacy, manse, tithes and oblations ofUpleadon to Edward Nurse of Gloucester.

1630 Office of Woodward ofWoolridge Woods to Anthony and Thomas Robinson:

1630 Presentation to Rudford rectory (Charles Pitfield).

1631 Presentation to Rudford rectory (Prebendary Elias Wrenche).

1632 Manor of Rudford (Lady Cohstance Lucy ofHighclere, Hampshire; Francis Lucy of London) 1634 Presentation to Rudford rectory (Prebendary John English).

1634 Messuage and land at Highleadon; To Roger Hill of Oxenhall.

1634 Pershe Wood and houses at Maisemore; To Francis Wheeler ofClaines, W orcestershire.

18 1634 Tithes ofKilpeck's tithing at Taynton; (Of Anthony Robinson) Gloss: To Hemy Westerdale- 1660.

1635 Tithes ofKilpeck's tithing at Taynton; To Christopher Westerdale ofTaynton.

1636 Manor ofTibberton, Taynton and Bulley is with Gilbert Jones of Gloucester.

1636 Hawkers Place, alias Moore's Place, Tibberton, late William Hanman (Arthur Jones of Gloucester) Gloss: To William Wyndow-1661.

1640 Hawkers Place- the same lease arrangement.

1641 Pershe Wood and houses at Maisemore; To Francis Wheeler of The Pershe.

1641 Curacy, tithes and oblations ofUpleadon; To Edward Nurse of Gloucester.

Upleadon Parish Registers

1544 Baptism of Ales daughter of Thomas and Ales Jelfe ( Thos Jelfe was constable ofU'L) 1545 Burial of Jeffrey Weaver, stranger 1551 William Keyse 'the fermore' 1584 William Clarke of Eaton's Hill 1584 " Eliz. Morgann 'a walkinge woman' 1591 " Eliz. Williams 'a walkinge wench' 1592 " Ales Cable 'a walkinge wench' 1595 Roger Keyse 'the fermore ofUpledene' 1652 " Mary, wife of John Smith, minister (dau ofEd Aylewotth)

Church Wardens

1538 Roger Shoughe, curate John Hitchins, clerk William Smythe and Philip Hopper, William Twinninge Richard Clarke, Thomas Rowden, John·---? John Heyward Thomas Balden, Thomas Westbury, John Whooper. 1540 Non Conformity" at Upleadon, two men shocked the congregation With obscene mockeries of the sacred rites" 17 54 John Grove and William Massie 1545 William Cuffe and John Rocke Curate Sir Roger Lowe (parishioners James Knowllys and Hugh Bradford) 17 54 William Gelfe, John Rocke John Clarke, William Cayse 17 54 Roger Lowe is curate 1754 Roger Lowe is curate 1754 Philip Hooper and William Smyth (John Hitchins is clerk) 1754 Morris Holyday and JohnTwynninge 1754 John Bradford and Thomas Disemore 1754 Thomas Brothers and Richard Clerk 1754 Richard Trosse and John Whopper 1754 William Hill and William Scismour 1754 John Clark and John Nehne 1754 Thomas Baldwin and Thomas Jelfe

19 17 54 William Hill and William Butler 1754 John Hill and William Bowde 17 54 Thomas Brothers and William Clerk 1754 William Kings and John Shoper 17 54 Robett Pride and Henry Addis 1754 William Hill and William Butter 1637 Bartholomew Blencen and William Bower 1638 John Hill and Roger Jelfe 1639 John Twining and William Clarke 1640 John Brother and John Whopper 1641 William Hill and John Bradford 1754 Roger Jelfe and Roger Clarke 1754 William Clarke and John Pride 1754 William Watts and John Clarke 1754 John Peyor and John Neyd . 1754 Thomas Grendon and John Hearn 1754 Nathaniel Watts and John Holder 1754 John P~--- and John Pitt 17 54 William Cook and Thomas Grendon 1754 John---~ and John Pride 17 54 Survey= No dissenters in U'L, a curacy (there were 19 houses) 17 54 Richard Eaton, minister 1754 Thomas Drew and Samuel Sargeaunt, curate 1754 WilliamEaton 1754 John Pride 1754 John Marshall 17 54 William Bruton

APPENDIX. B.

Wills pertaining to Upleadon Taken from Glos.Wills 1541~1650 W.P.W. Phillimore et al1895 reprint 1968. 3. 1544 Maud Chedworth 4. 1544 William twyning 80. 1585 Thomas Daher 5. 1545 James Knowles 85. 1588 Richard Clark 11. 1547 William Clerk 91. 1591 Margaret Jelfe 15. 1552 Agnes Twynnynge 92. 1591 William Twyninge 17. 1552 William Keyse 92. 1591 William Jelfe 17. 1553 Margaret Clerk . 100. 1595 Thomas I:Ieyward 20. 1555 Hugh Bradford 101. 1595 John Rock 21. 1555 Hugh Brodford 104. 1597 William Clarke 27. 1558 Agnes Cuffe 106. 1598 William Hollyday 31. 1558 William Cuffe 106. 1599 Catherine Hollyday 41. 1563 William Chedward 118. 1606 Thomas Rogers 44. 1566 Joan Haywwd 126. 1610 William Smith 44. 1566 John Clearke 129. 1612 John Hayward 52. 1571 John Rocke 129. 1612 John Hut~hins 56. 1573 Alice Chedworth 131. 1613 John Holliday 57. 1573 Joan Clerke 131. 1613 John Rocke 69. 1579 Margery Rocke 137. 1616 Alex Symons 71. 1580 Thomas Symons 146. 1620 RogerPytt 72. 1580 William Crouse 149. 1622 Margaret Bishopp 78. 1584 William Jelfe 153. 1624 Thomas Keyse

20 170. 1633 Eliz. Clarke 264. 1768 William Palmer 171. 1634 James Foster 265. 1768 George Wilks 171. 1634 John Drewe 272. 1772 Ann Bruton 175. 1636 Edw. Cooke 284. 1778 Eliz. Bizzell 183. 1640 John Twyning 285. 1778 Mary Dobbins 186. 1642 John Hill 301. 1787 William Lane 191. 1646 Thomas Baldwyn 312. 1794 William Wilkes. 192. 1647 Eleanor Bullock 314. 1795 John Trounsell sen. 203. 1651 William Hill 315. 1796· Walter Walkins Ugleadon taken from Glos. Wills (1907) 5. 1663 Ann Cross 6. 1663 John Canning 7. 1663 William Addis 9. 1664 William Morgan 14. 1668 John Watts 17. 1669 Upton Hill 18. 1670 Eleanor Hill 19. 1670 Simon Parsons 25. 1675 Ann Watts 31. 1678' John Clarke; Sylvester Canning 34. 1680 John Drew 41. 1683 Abigail Hill alias Symons 42. 1684 William Clarke 44. 1684 John Pitt 52. 1686 Thomas Grendon 67. 1691 William Cook sen. 81. 1695 Eleanor Watts 101. 1705 John Treherne 121. 1712 Matthew Morris 125. 1713 Joanna Morris 128. 1714 William Jones 130 1715 Nicholas Drew 134. 1716 Alex Hampton 140. 1718 John Prior 148. 1721 Thomas Roberts 157. 1724 Martha Barnes 187. 1731 Edw. Lane 191. 1733 William Steel 199. 1736 Charles Jones 203. 1738 Mary Castleman 215. 1743 John Holford 223. 1747 John Jones 229. 1750 Mary Steele 229. 1751 Edw. Best 248. 1761 John Dobbins 249. 1761 James Turner 253 .. 1763 John Pitt 259. 1766 John Marshall 260. 1766 Daniel Wilks sen.

©Alan Shelley 'Wycken End' Bournside, Cheltenham 2004.

21 APPENDIX C.

St. Mary the Virgin, Upleadon

The old Ledene manor and parish church ofUpleadon is probably well over a thousand years in origin. The original builders, probably Saxon, may have adapted a man-made raised site of ancient, perhaps pre-Christian worship. These foundations would have been raised to safeguard the building from flooding by the river relatively close by. ·

There had been a Saxon east window where the present Chancel Arch stands. At some time there was a small priest's room attached to the east end of the church, probably in the early Norman period. The Nave is ofNorman origin and much has been sympathetically repaired/ restored during the 20th century.

Morris & Co.'s Gazetteer of 1876 says, in reference to the building, that the "chancel was restored by a former curate ofthe parish, and is built in the style ofa Swiss chalet".

The Saxon preference for the establishment of secular clergy was ended by the Norman policy of encouragement towards the establishment of monastic institutions. The manor of Ledene, granted to Walter de Laci by William I, was presented (in 1080) to the abbey of St. Peter's at Gloucester. Two monks, who were retained there, from Gloucester abbey, then served Upleadon's parish church.

The first documental allusion to the Church at Upleadon is in a proclamation by bishop Ffoliot ofHereford (1148-1163)

" G(ilbert Ffoliot) D. G. Bishop ofHereford to all the faith fill ofthe Holy Church, - Health. We wish to make known to you that for the salvation ofsouls and for the reji1ge ofthe poor the villa ofLedene, necessity compelling we have a cemetery. Adding this that the Church ofthe same villa shall answer to its mother Church that ofa chapel and shall exercise no other custom than a chapel. And this we have confirmed in the dedication ofthe aforesaid Church, and by the present writing confirming the same".

Reformists following the lead begun by John Wyclif (13 82/83) began questioning the traditions of the Orthodox Church. In 1541 charges were brought against Matthew Price, Will Jackman and others from Staunton. Depositions taken at the Hospital of St. Bartholomew in Gloucester show the matter was investigated in some detail. Witnesses, from Hartpury, Staunton and Corse, together with one, Elizabeth Knowles ofUpleadon, testified to the guilt of the accused in matters of heretical statements and sacrilegious behaviour, the Church and the Mill at Upleadon, and a number of local private houses having been sites of such conduct. They were charged with having stated that the Sacrement was made of man and not instituted by God and that the prayers of Matins and Evensong were "lip labour"; to have taken holy water and sprinkled it over one of them at Evensong, making demonstration of their protests for zealous baptism; and to have "eaten sausage and other kinds of flesh during Ember Days, in contempt of the fast.days of the Church. We have no record of what penalties resulted.

Visitation reports of the late 16th and the 17th centuries indicate that "the curate, sufficient scholar but no preacher" and, at another entry " the curate doth not baptise the children".

A religious census of 1676 stated, Confirmists 44, Papists, Non-Confo.rmists nil.

22 Incumbents and Clergy

Until the suppression of the monasteries, the Church was served by two monks from the Abbey of St. Peter, Gloucester.

1554 Roger How 1829 Thomas Commeline 1835 Andrew sayers 1576 Roger Shough 1875 Gray Lawson 1610 John Hutchins 1887 Charles Reeves Greaves 1613 ---- Rudge 1945 Stanley Edward Cuthbert Whitcombe 1619 ---- Barker 1948 Henry Noel Guttridge 1625 ---- Harris 1951 Thomas Beresford Davies 1628 Simon Jones 1963 Joseph walter John Thackwell 1662 John Green 1967 William StanleyProsser 1668 William Mallett 1973 Cecil William Alway (Priest-in-Charge) 1701 ------~- . 1977 William John Moxon (Rector) 1710 Daniel Bond 1984 Raymond William Martin (Rector) 1712 Nathaniel King 1991 Terence Williams (Rector) 1763 Samuel Sergeaunt 2000 Patricia Phillips (Rector) 1782 Thomas Davies 1824 John Davies

An 18th century Parish 'Terrier' advises that when William Mallett was the Curate, there was ''a Parsonage with four rooms, Parsonage Barn with three bays, nine acres of Glebe land plus two acres of Glebe coppice".

There are interesting accounts of tithe arguments and in 1816 resistance by some Quakers resulted in distraints,- a horse from John Jennings for £3-8-6d arrears and costs, and three fat cows and 44 bushels of wheat for £73 tithe and costs from William Wilks.

Bishop's Court Licences were issued in 1828 and 1834 respectively to permit first Joseph Smith's house and then room in Richard Merrie's house to be used as places of worship for Protestant Dissenters. A cottage at the rear ofUpleadon Court is known to have served this purpose until the Methodist Chapel was built. The latter was pulled down only recently, . having served the community for around I 00 years. APPENDIX D.

Upleadon, Kellys Gloucestershire Directory 1856

Upleadon, anciently Ledene, is a township, small parish and straggling village, containing 1,207 acres, distant 3 miles north-west from Newent, 9 south-east from Ledbury, 9 south-west from Tewkesbury, and 8 miles west-north-west from Gloucester railway station. It is situate on the turnpike road leading from Newent to Tewkesbury, and is in the Hundred ofBotloe, West Gloucestershire and Newent Union, in the archdeaconry of Gloucester, deanery of the Forest, and bishopric of Gloucester and Bristol. The soil is red loam, about a third of which is in pasture and meadow, situate on the banks of the Leadon, by which this parish is bounded on the east. The arable portion is planted with fruit trees of the choicest descriptions, but at a sufficient distance from each other, so as not to obstruct the growth of the different grains sown thereon. The population, in 1851, was 275, and its rateable value is £2,000. The living is a perpetual curacy, valued at £80 yearly, with residence, being in the patronage ofthe Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol. The Rev. Andrew Sayers, M.A., is the incumbent, and the Rev. William Bedford, B.A., is the curate. The church is small, and consists of a nave, chancel and low wooden tower containing 2 bells. On the north side is ail elegantly ornamented arch, over the doorway, in the Saxon style of architecture, which is visited by antiquarians from all parts. There were formerly considerable iron forges here, which are now converted into flour, obne of which is tenanted by Messrs. Allaway, ofUpleadon Court, who also occupy the largest farm in the parish. The Rev. Richard Hodges, M.A., of Little· Barrington, , is lord of the manor, also chief landowner. Here is aNational school for boys and girls. There are no charities in conjunction with this parish. Drews, Beyton, and Hay Farm, are places here. 1856 Kellys Directory 1876 Morris & Co. Dit·ectory

Allaway Mr. Robert, Upleadon court Hartland Mr William, farmer, Upleadon court Allaway Mr. William, Upleadon court Nelrnes Mr. William Bedford Rev. William, M.A., Parsonage Lawson Rev. G.N. Gray, M.A, The Vicarage Ford Mr. Daniel, Drews Ford Mrs. Ann, Drews House · Rice Mrs. Martha, Eden cottage TRADERS

Allaway Robert & William, farmers & millers Bolton William, farmer Allen Charles, butcher Boulter Moses, farmer, Eden's hill Coates Daniel, blacksmith & shopkeeper Broadstock John, blacksmith Compton William, shopkeeper · ·Compton William, juri., farmer Ford Charles, farmer, Upleadon falm Dowding Chas., farmer, Lower House farm Ford Joseph, farmer, Middletown Edmonds William, farmer;.Middletown Green Thomas, shopkeeper Elton Peter, farmer - Jones Thomas, carpenter & wheelwright Fewster Anthony, miller, Upleadon mill Merrett Richard, blacksmith & wheelwright Jones Thomas, carpenter & wheelwright Merrett William, blacksmith & wheelwright Merrett Albert, cpntr, blksmith & whl.wright Watkins Joseph, shopkeeper Watkins Joseph, carrier & shopkeeper West Thomas, farmer, Hay farm Whittle Mrs. Elizabeth, shopkeeper Woodhouse Emma (Mrs) mistress ofNational school Miss Ellen Osgood, mistress Woodhouse Joseph Wells, master ofNational school

Assistant Overseer and Collector ofPoor Rates- William Henry Wigley, White house, Pauntly.

©Alan Shelley 'Wycken End' Bournside, Cheltenham 2004.

24 The Manor ofNewent

A history of Highleadon manor or of Ledene estate would not be complete without reference to the influence of the adjacent town manor ofNewent.

The early settlement, of Saxon origins, would have been strategically positioned at the important crossroads of the highways linking Gloucester with Hereford and with early Dymock and Ledbury.

A ninth century, or earlier, Saxon church had been built on the foundations of the existing StMary's and two seventh century gravestones are to be found standing in the church entrance.

The Saxon settlement was very small and the earliest reference to Newent is found in the Domesday Book of 1086 as follows:

StMary's Church ofCormeilles holds Noent [Newent] King Edward held it 6 hides did not pay tax Earl Roger gave it to his church for his father's soul, with King William's assent In Lordship 3 ploughs; 9 villagers and 5 smallholders with I2 ploughs; A Reeve who has I5 villagers and 5 smallholders; between them they have 5 ploughs and a mill at 20d

2 slaves; 2 mills at 6s 8d; jiwn the woodland 30d

Durand holds I hide ofthis landji·om the Abbot, he has I plough and 5 smallholders and 2 slaves with 2 ploughs

2 hedged enclosures ofwhich the King has taken possession

Value of the whole Manor before I066 £4; now IOOs; ofDurand's hide I2s

William son ofBaderon holds I virgate of this manor's land by force.

(One hide is approximately I20 acres and one virgate is about 30 acres.)

William FitzOsbern kin of King William and fought at the battle of Hastings was created Earl of Hereford. He founded the Benedictine Abbey ofCormeilles in Normandy in about 1060, where he was Lord. His son Earl Roger gave the six hides of land at Newent to the monks of Cormeilles with the consent of King.William and a priory was established between I072 and I 074.

William FitzOsbern was buried in the abbey of Conneilles. His son Roger was imprisoned for treason in 1074 and forfeited his lands. He died in prison sometime after I 087.

Durand was the Sheriff of Gloucester in 1086. Lords of the Manor ofNewent

King Edward the Confessor until1066

Earl Roger son ofFitzOsbern

Abbey of Cormeilles (Normandy) Prior to 1086

King Edward III

Sir John Devereux From 1382

College of Fotheringhay, From 1415

Sir Richard Lee From 1548

Sir Nicholas Arnold

Sir William Wintour From 1567

Sir Edward Wintour From 1589

Sir John Wintour From1619

Thomas Foley From 1659

Paul Foley cl670

Thomas Foley From 1699

Thomas Lord Foley In possession 1779

Landowners of the sub manors, the Tithing Hamlets

Compton also called Compton House or Walden Court, owned by Reginald Bray and sold to Edward Rogers before 1779.

Carswell mentioned in the Domesday Book was owned by Ulfel until 1066. It was in the possession of Roger de Laci in 1086. Much later with the Pauncefoot family and in 1779 it was in the possession of Mr Bromley and Mr Smith.

The Scarr also called Atherlord's Place or Waters End was with Mr Dobyns prior to 1779 then with a Mr Sergeant.

The Hays was with Walter de Laci in 1086 'as a pmtion with his niece'. Sometime before 1779 it was with the Wall family before then passing to a Mr Pritchard.

2 Malswick

Philippa, widow of Henry Masham of Okeley until 1407

Elizabeth widow of Robert Lovell ofOkely-Grandison until1438

Sir James Ormond and his wife Amice, Okely-Grandison until1457

James Earl of until1461

Thomas Duke ofNorfolk, Okely-Grandison until1545

Thomas Brook, Okely-Grandison until1547 then Joan Arrowsmith, sister of Thomas Brook, Okely-Grandison until 1548

Mr Rogers, Okely c1700 then Mr Bearcroft, Mr Jones then Mr George Smith, Okely-Pritchard in possession 1779

William Gerand ofMatisden, and Catherine, his wife in possession 1315. The Woodward family were in possession. Mr Chinn of 'The Moat' was in possession in 1799.

Boulsdon

John Atwood was in possession untill301.

Thomas Bou1sdon until1475, then Thomas Porter until1558. The Nourse family were in possession from 1630 until the mid 1700s.

Lord Foley was in possession in 1779

Kilcot

Ansfrid de Cormeliis "holds one hide" in 1086

Robert de Musgrose was in possession until1254, then Bogo de Knovil until 1339.

Thomas Moine untill364 and Beatrix, wife of Richard Burly, untill393.

Walter Nourse was in possession in 1686 and a Mr Lewis was in possession in 1779.

(Ansfrid ofCormeilles married the niece of Walter de Laci [Lacey].)

The above were listed by Rudder in 1779.

3 The Newent Estate at the turn of the Twentieth Century

When Andrew Knowles JP.,DL died on 25 November 1909 his wife Catherine decided to sell the Newent estate. It was put up for auction at the Bell Hotel, Gloucester on the 17 Septembet 1910 in 43 lots. Some of the lots of interest are listed below:

Lot 5 Newent Comt, 54 acres priced at £4,800 was withdrawn

Lot 6 Poykes Farm, 67 acres priced £2,900 sold to Robert Vines and tenanted by Charles Nash.

Lot 11 Old Court, 2 acres priced at £1,000 sold to Miss Hutchinson and occupied by her.

Lot 22 Churchyard Cottage priced at £60 sold to Jolm Davis and tenanted by Ellen England

Lot 24 Moat Farm, 341 acres priced £7,850 was withdrawn, tenanted by Ernest Bellamy.

Lot 25 Caerwents Farm, 176 acres priced £3,150 sold to Fred Cowles and occupied by him.

Lot 26 NelfieldsFarm, 176 acres priced £2,900 sold toT S Brewer and tenanted by J G Spry.

Lot 28 Malswick Farm, 84 acres priced £2,000 sold to W Cummins and occupied by him.

Lot 31 Rymes Place, 130 acres priced £2,750 sold to John Smith and tenanted by A King

Lot 34 Kents Green Farm, House & 55 acres priced £2,700 sold to Walley and tenanted by C Walker and F Smith.

Eventually Newent Court was sold, to Edward Charles de Peyer from Switzerland, in 1911 for £3,500. The Old Court, next to St Mary's Church, is built on the site of the 11th centmy priory and dates from the Georgian period. It was purchased by William Rogers in c 1650 and occupied by the Beale family in the 18th century. During the 18th and 19th centuries it belonged to the Foleys.

The Newent Tithe Assessments of 1840 listing landowners of more than 30 acres are as follows:

Isabella Beale 182 acres, John Cox Bower 142, William Cadle 39, James Clarke 59, Thomas Beale Cooper 206, John Cadle 117, William Dyke 130, Edmund Nelson Dean 101, Elizabeth Foley 1,507, Paul Hawkins Fisher 309, Elizabeth Green 37, William Green 32, Thomas Grosvenor 53, John Hi11134, James Humpidge 36, Thomas Hankins 451, Benjamin Hook 172, Thomas Hartland 141, William Hartland 130, John Hartland 67, Thomas Haynes 33, Joseph Hooper 59, Ellen Hull/Jane Perry 104, John Morse 191, Thomas Morse 174, Hemy Thompson 82, John Matthews 51, Mary Matthews 62, Roston Sarah Ann Nash 63, Rev RF Onslow 41, William Priday 278, Richard Osman 182, Mary Elizabeth Rees 98, James De Visme 464, John White 201, John Wood 250, Thomas Woodyate 127, Rabshekah Wicks 35, Edward Gibbon Wakefield 220, Trustees of John Markey 63, Frederick Stokes 125.

4 Newent Glasshouse

Glass making started in Gloucestershire in the late 16th century by immigrant glassworkers. Pmis of the Newent and Taynton parishes- generally referred to as the "Newent Glasshouse" were occupied by these settlers. A hamlet so entitled lies within Taynton with the main glassworking area just over the boundary within the parish ofNewent.

A glasshouse and furnace, producing great quantities of glass, is referred to by Sir Jeremy Bowes in 1598. In 1591 Queen Elizabeth I granted Bowes a twelve year monopoly over the industty.

Most of the manufacturing families were French/Flemish (Huguenots) Protestants who settled at the foot of Yartleton [May] Hill. Some came from Normandy and Lorraine, escaping the "Massacre of St Bartholomew's".

A history of the glassmaking families can be traced back to 1473 when they lived in the Darney area of Lorraine (independent of France and Germany). Names such as Thysac, Hennezel, Thietry and Raux. These were families of high status with imposing properties of importance. Some of the immigrants, on arrival in England had set-up business in London. Within the parish of St Olaves they operated a glasshouse known as the "Crutched Friars Glasshouse". There was friction with the London glassmakers who drove them out of the capital to Buckholt in the Forest of Hampshire, to and to the Weald of . In 1590, they moved to St Weonards, Herefordshire then into Gloucester settling in Woodchester and Taynton.

The local Bridgeman family had originated with the Huguenots in London and had encouraged the move to Taynton, their home territory. Henry Bridgeman had been a member of the glassmakers at St Olaves, London.

Venetian glassmaking was a closely held process and much secrecy over ingredients produced a variety of differing qualities of glass. Moses Meadow, Newent provides the greatest local concentrations of glass shards. This is assumed to have been the site of a large Kiln. The Tithe Map indicates 'Old Quarry and Glasshouse' at a position close to the present 'Glasshouse Inn'.

After the glassmakers finally moved, Moses Meadow and adjoining 'Hilly Ground' was occupied by potters. Pottery shards have been uncovered over this site in great abundance. The Pottery making period covers c1640 - 1750.

Conclusion; Conjecture/ Comment

The development ofNewent really began with the Normans adopting the strategically convenient highway passing through Newent, in preference to Dymock. The old borough and market at Dymock eventually diminished as Newent grew in stature.

From the Germanic Celtic period of the Iron Age there were many trackways providing pedestrian access across Britain (many were improved by the Romans). These track routes were commonly referred to as 'wents'. This expression closely relates to 'right of way' in modern parlance. Examples of the wents are plentiful in the landscape (I have previously examined) and in Gloucestershire currently under examination.

The old road from Gloucester causeway came across the moor, through Maisemore to 'Merewent' (the watery way) crossing the river at Redeford (Rudford) or further upstream, before passing through the ancient estate of Ledene. Caewent, described by the Romans as the link to a colonia (cae giving meaning to fmiification i.e. Caester or Chester). 'Newent' was simply a description given to 'the-new-way' by-passing Dymock. Settlements generally occur along trackways and particularly at crossroads where nucleation takes place. Outlying settlements are commonly named with the suffix Xxx-End.

Alan Shelley

5 The Norman Influence on England before the Conquest

Particularly relating to Herefordshire

On Hardicanute's death 'the whole nation ... received Edward [the Confessor] as King, as was his right by birth.' Edward was the only surviving son ofEthelred the Unready and Emma, the eldest daughter of Richard I, Duke ofNonnandy. He was born at Islip, Oxfordshire about 1004. Edward spent almost all his early life in exile in Normandy. By culture and language he was Norman. His crowning in Winchester cathedral on Easter Sunday, 3 April 1043 was with great ceremony.

Edward's nephew Ralph, son ofDrogo of Mantes, Count of the Vexin and the daughter of King Ethelred and Emma ofNonnandy was brought to England as part of the Confessor's entourage in 1041. Ralph was created Earl ofHereford in around 1050 to govern and defend lands previously held by the rebellious Swein Godwineson. Earl Ralph placed Normans in positions of authority beneath him in Hereford 1 and these men immediately began constructing castles- a new feature in the English landscape, causing much concern to the indigenous population.

At that time it was Herefordshire that was considered most important in a serious attempt to organise the country as a frontier province. In 1051 " at a shmi distance from Hereford, one of Earl Swein's shire-towns, a Norman named Osbern was established in the large manors of Burghill and Hope under Dinmore". (Stenton F.M, OUP) Osbern of Burghill had built and garrisoned the castle in Herefordshire, which caused great offence to the landed men of the country. An early, pre-Conquest castle at Ewias Harold in the Golden Valley later in 1086 belonged to Alfred of Marlborough, together with Burghill and Hope. (Recorded in Domesday Book as having belonged to Osbern).

The period of 1051, when Edward the Confessor forced the Godwine family into exile, allowed the King to make changes. Several more Normans were encouraged to join his retinue. In 1052, when Godwine was reinstated as Earl of Wessex, Osbern who was Alfred of Marlborough's uncle was, in1052, compelled to leave England. At least three castles were established in Herefordshire including Hereford itself and/Richard's Castle.

Following Godwine's death 15 April1053, his son Harold was created Earl of Wessex. Ralph's earldom was extended to include Gloucestershire and Oxfordshire. Early in 1055 Earl A3lfgar, son of Leofric of Mercia, was exiled as a result of the jealous politics of Harold Godwineson. A3lfgar collected a mercenary army and along with Gruffydd ap Llywelyn of Gwynedd2 raided Ralph's lands and caused great destruction of Hereford. Ralph, who employed the Norman method of mounted cavalry, was heavily defeated and withdrew earning the historical name of 'Ralph the Timid'. A3lfgar was immediately reinstated as Earl of East Anglia and on his father's death he became Earl of Mercia. When Earl Ralph died in 1057, it appears Harold arranged for Herefordshire to come under his jurisdiction

1 Osbern Pentecost who held Burghill and Hope of Edward's gift. Richard fitz Scrope who held extensive lands north of the shire. Robert fitzWymarch who had Thruxton in Archenfield and a certain Hugh who left his name at Howton. NB Richard fitz Scrope was son-in-law of Robert fitz Wymarch. 2 Gruffydd, King of Wales was son-in-law of JElfgar and his widow went on to marry King Harold early in 1066.

1 Another Ralph of Hereford was Ralph de Gael [or de Guader] born c 1040 at Hereford, son of Ralph the Staller Earl ofHereford, the Breton Constable ofEdward the Confessor. Ralph the younger married Emma, daughter of Earl William fitz Osbern and became Earl of East Anglia under William I.

Richard fitz Scrob [Scrape] a Norman knight was granted lands by Edward the Confessor in Herefordshire, Worcestershire and Shropshire. 'Richard's Castle' of motte and bailey construction was built before 1051 and remains in ruins today. A large existing village of two parishes retains the title 'Richard's Castle'. An overall connection exists with the Burford barony and the Burford/Tenbury motte and Ham [Homme] castle also built within the same 3 period . Richard fitz Scrob was last mentioned in 1067, 'Richard's Castle' passed to his son Osbern fitz Richard who married Nesta, the daughter of King Gruffydd ap Llywelyn of Wales. Osbern died around 113 7 and was succeeded by his grandson Osbern fitz Hugh who died leaving the barony to his son another Hugh. In 1196 Hugh fought at the battle at New Radnor and was probably killed there. His castles and barony passed eventually to Robert de Mortimer of Attleborough. In 1264, his son Hugh Mortimer was forced to surrender himself and Richard's castle to Simon de Montfort 6th Earl of Leicester. His grandson, the last Hugh Mortimer of Richard's Castle, was poisoned to death by his wife in 1304. The Castle then passed to the Talbots, through Richard Talbot's marriage to Joan Mortimer. On 3rd December 1329, Joan -late wife of Richard Thalebot, had noted in the Patent Rolls that she planned to leave Richard's Castle to John de Wotton, chaplain, and William Balle ofUnderlith, in fee simple. The Talbots were still living there in the late 14th century. By the 16th century the Castle was in ruins. The village is split into two parishes, one called Richard's Castle, Hereford, the other called Richard's Castle, Shropshire.

The First Phases of the Norman Conquest

The great magnates Gilbert fitz Richard ofBrionne and William fitz Osbern built castles far and wide. William fitz Osbern built castles at Clifford, Wigmore and Chepstow. Montgomery was named under Roger of Montgomery's patronage who also controlled Shrewsbury. His vassal built Oswestry. Robert chose Rhuddlan for his base.

The great English magnates at the time were Eadrich and Brihtric (of Gioucester and Tewkesbury) 1067.

At the Norman Conquest in 1066, William fitz Osbern was recognised as King William's seneschal, responsible for the government of England. His importance can be recognised in that Count Baldwin VI made him joint guardian of his heir with Philip, King of France. William fitz Osbern shared a form of regency with Odo ofBayeux, King William's half brother. This was mainly in the form of military government.

The king William gave William fitz Osbern Herefordshire (in addition to the Isle of Wight) and set him up in the marches with Walter of Lacy to fight the Welsh. Roger Mortimer and Walter held some of the lands directly from the King along with parts of southwest Shropshire. Fitz Osbern took over the authority previously of Earl, later King Harold, in Worcestershire, Gloucestershire and Herefordshire, with the added authority for the Norman

3 Edric 'the Wild' son ofElfric with lands around Wigmore and Clun is known to have been attacked by the garrison at Hereford.

2 castellan frontier border region. In 1071 he returned to Normandy and was killed at the battle of Cassel. His son Roger became Earl of Hereford until his rebellion in 107 5 against authority affecting his feudal liberties. It was the forces of Walter de Laci [Lacy] that earned him the appreciation of King William in subduing the rebel army. Earl Roger was condemned to perpetual imprisonment at1d his lands were forfeited. From then the earldom of Hereford was suppressed for sixty years.

William fitz Osbern, earl of Hereford, long before the conquest of England was complete, had begun an invasion of Wales to command all chief entries into that land. Castles were planted on the western approaches to his earldom. He established outposts at Monmouth and Chepstow and he annexed the Welsh principality of Gwent. The advance was put in check by the fall of his son Roger.

NOTES

In the period before Edward the Confessor reorganised Herefordshire it was influenced by the Danish regime. It would appear to have been governed by an Earl Hrani, who attests at least five charters. He must have been a person of some importance at court, though little is known of him beyond the fact that his earldom included Herefordshire and that he took pati in a punitive expedition sent by Harthacnut against Worcester in 1041. (F.M. Stenton OUP)

After the Norman Conquest of 1066 the Welsh border became a priority of King William. The family of Clare, destined to play so prominent a pati in Wales during the next century of its history, made its first appearance in the country when Gilbmi, son of the founder of the house in England, replaced Cadwgan in 1110 in Cardigan; a little later his brother, Walter, best known as the founder ofTintern abbey, was established between the Wye and the Usk with the rock f01iress ofChepstow as the centre of his power. It was on I January 1136, scarcely more than a week after Stephen's coronation, that the Welsh won their first success in a battle near Swansea in the vale of Gower, when some 500 of the Anglo-Norman colonists were slain. The death of Richard fitz Gilbeti, while riding through the forest in Gwent, followed by a decisive victory of the Welsh, led to the loss of Cardigan.

3