A. Boudreau, Parks parkscanada.gc.ca Branagin Valley Island Branagin to Gut Bears Multi-Day HikingRoute TORNGAT MOUNTAINS NATIONAL PARK (alternate departure(alternate from LittleRamahBay)

480000m.E. 63°20'0"W 85 63°15'0"W 90 63°10'0"W 95 63°5'0"W 500000m.E./63°0'0"W y

Ungava a B Bears Gut to Branagin Island

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Alternative Start Steep Descent 15

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Torngat Mountain Waterfall Mountains National Route 58°45'0"N Park Alternative Route

58°45'0"N N U N A V I K N (Q U É B E C) 042 km 10 10

Saglek Québec Parc national (aireld & Kuururjuaq radar site)

Basecamp Skull Lake Mont Goetze Bears Gut (Niakuk) N U N A T S I A V U T (L A B R A D O R) 05 05 58°40'0"N 58°40'0"N

Torngat Mountains 000 National Park 000 00 00 65 900m 65

Emerald Lakes 95 95 58°35'0"N 58°35'0"N

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NUNATSIAVUT a (LABRADOR) Jens Haven S Island

Branagin Island 000m.N. 000m.N. 85 85 64 64 480000m.E. 63°20'0"W 85 63°15'0"W 90 63°10'0"W 95 63°5'0"W 500000m.E./63°0'0"W Route Overview

Bears Gut to Branagin Island WHAT DO I NEED TO KNOW Type of hike Moderate multi-day hike

TO HIKE FROM THE BEARS GUT Distance Approximately 40 km / 25 miles

TO BRANAGIN ISLAND VALLEY? Time required Allow 3 to 5 days depending on the exact route you plan to take A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Parks Boudreau, A.

Hikers on the Bears Gut Plateau Elevation gain 1,225 metres / 4,000 feet VISITOR CONTACT TORNGAT MOUNTAINS REGISTRATION INFORMATION BASE CAMP AND Maximum elevation 700 metres / 2,300 feet Hiking parties who are interested in Torngat Mountains National RESEARCH STATION hiking in this area will need to register Park of Canada This camp is situated in St. John’s Point of departure Bears Gut (before their visit) with Torngat Phone: 1-888-922-1290 Harbour in Saglek . It presently (20V 494958 E 6503450 N) Mountains National Park (Parks Email: [email protected] operates from mid-July until early Canada). Visitors are also required to September. The base camp can Alternate point Little Ramah Bay de-register after they have departed provide support for visitor parties of departure (20V 489200 E 6514209 N) from the park to ensure that staff wanting to travel into Torngat know they have left the park and Mountains National Park. Bear have been accounted for. Guards, Inuit Guides, a helicopter, Route access 1. By boat from base camp (1.5 hours to 2 hours) speed boats and longliners (fishing 2. By helicopter from base camp boats) are generally available for (15 minutes) local charter. Arrangements can also be made for fixed wing access to the Saglek Airstrip (20V 519721 E 6482002 N) from Goose Bay, NL. Please contact the Nunatsiavut Group of Companies (NGC) by phone (1-709- 896-8505) or email at basecamp@ ngc-ng.ca for inquiries about base camp or visit the following website: http://www.torngatbasecamp.com. A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Parks Boudreau, A. A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Parks Boudreau, A.

Boat drop-off at Bears Gut A pair of polar bears in the Bears Gut area

This multi-day hiking route preserved, untouched, for nearly 2 alternate point of departure You are strongly encouraged to hire an ROUTE description is based on an exploratory billion years. from Little Ramah Bay and a Inuit Bear Guard to accompany you on hike from Bears Gut to Branagin more direct route from Bears any hiking excursion in TMNP, as you OVERVIEW Island Valley (valley northwest of Hikers have many options in this Gut to Branagin Island. are constantly in polar bear and black Branagin Island), located in Saglek area because of the openness of the bear country. The accompaniment of a Fiord. This area is only a short Bears Gut Plateau, which is accessible The most practical and cost-effective bear guard will allow you to relax and distance from the Torngat Mountains from Bears Gut to the east and from way of getting to the start of this enjoy your hike, but will also give you Base Camp and Research Station, Little Ramah Bay to the north. This hike is by speedboat, which can be the opportunity to experience the park where many visitors begin and end description is for a route that starts arranged through the Nunatsiavut with the help and guidance of Inuit their visit to Torngat Mountains at the bottom of Bears Gut, an aptly Group of Companies (NGC) from who truly know the land. National Park. named body of water surrounded the Torngat Mountains Base Camp by several peaks over 1,000 metres and Research Station. Speedboats All visitors should consult the General Throughout this route, you will be in height, where polars bears are can carry four to five passengers at Hiking Information for Torngat travelling over 1.9 billion year old often encountered. one time. It is recommended that Mountains National Park document sedimentary rocks. If you keep a you finish your hike at the mouth of before planning a hike in the Torngat lookout, you may see flat surfaces This hiking route description Branagin Island Valley, where you can Mountains. On this particular hike, it of rocks with ripple marks that are follows the route taken by Parks be picked up either by speedboat or is recommended that you have sturdy identical to those you would find in a Canada staff in August 2011 but longliner. Pickup arrangements (the hiking boots and hiking poles, as the modern-day . It is remarkable also suggests alternative routes date and time of your pickup) should can be quite rough. Hikers that these features have been (see page 9), including an be made beforehand with the NGC. will also find useful trip planning information in the Google layer that is available for TMNP. A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Parks Boudreau, A. A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Parks Boudreau, A.

Hikers travelling up the Bears Gut River North side of Bears Gut River

ROUTE DESCRIPTION Begin your hike on the north side of and some impressive waterfalls. begin to climb out of the valley in a SECTION 1 The first section of this route the river feeding into Bears Gut as this By staying on the same side of the northwesterly direction. The climb BEARS GUT description covers the route from will allow you to hike along the north river, you will save valuable time and is gradual (100 metres gained over TO SKULL LAKE (NIAKUK) Bears Gut to Skull Lake. Note that side of the lake, which has a wider and energy by not having to change your a distance of 1.6 kilometres) and it flatter shoreline than the south side of footwear in order to cross the river. should take no more than an hour to 20V 494958 E 6503450 N to there is also an alternate and more direct route from Bears Gut to the the lake. The terrain is relatively flat in Nevertheless, all hikers should carry reach a plateau that is dotted with 20V 487074 E 6507561 N Branagin Island Valley, which is the lower portion of the valley (vertical water sandals or neoprene booties for lakes, the largest of which looks like a Approximately 12 kilometres described on page 9 of this document. gain of only 150 metres over the first fording rivers in the park. skull, hence the nickname “Skull Lake” 7 kilometres) and you will find (20V 487074 E 6507561 N) or NiaKuk Your time of arrival at Bears Gut several caribou trails that you can Beyond the waterfalls and canyon (knee-yeah-hook). This is an ideal spot will dictate the distance your party follow along the banks of the river. at the last UTM coordinate, there is to camp for the night with easy access will cover on the first day. However, Just beyond the lake you will reach a large elbow in the river along with to water. it is strongly advised that you allow a small waterfall (20V 491887 E three small lakes (20V 489588 E yourself enough time to travel as 6504711 N). It is recommended that 6504637 N). Continue to hike along far inland as possible to lessen the you remain on the north side of the the north side of the river until you likelihood of polar bear encounters. river at this point to avoid having to reach the stream at 20V 488000 E cross it again further upstream at 6504146 N. At this point you should 20V 490098 E 6504566 N, where there is a deep canyon to the south A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Approximately 9kilometres Approximately 20V 485321E6499311N 20V 487074E6507561Nto EMERALD LAKESAREA SKULL LAKE(NIAKUK)TO SECTION 2

great viewsallaround.FromSkull undulating BearsGutPlateau,with morning ofverynicehikingacrossthe Branagin IslandValleystartswitha lakes nearthepassleadinginto Skull Laketotheemerald-coloured To continuethemainroutefrom (see insettoright). Goetze andthesurroundingpeaks Ramah BayoreasttowardsMount is todoadaytripnortheastLittle From SkullLake,anattractiveoption ROUTE DESCRIPTION stream. safest andeasiestplacetocrossthe 485743 E6504613N,whichisthe kilometres toreachthelakeat20V direction forapproximately3.5 Lake, travelinasouth-southwesterly

along theeastsideoflake day. Itisrecommendedthatyouhike that youwillhavetackledearlierinthe nothing likethelong,steadyclimb a fewshortascentsanddescents,but final portionofthissectionincludes approximately 4kilometresaway.The towards aseriesoflakeslocated travelling southbelowtheridge Beyond thelookout,continue spot forlunchonaclearday. 486184 E6502829N,whichisagreat find animpressivelookoutat20V around attheseelevations.Youwill this area;theycansometimeswander Keep aneyeoutforblackbearsin ridge thatrunsfromnorthtosouth. the next2kilometres)alongasteep climb (gainofover200metres From thislake,youwillbeginasteady Skull Lake this area. camping duetothelargebouldersin be difficulttofindaflat,openspotfor 487670 E6498063N,althoughitmay to theemerald-colouredlakesat20V 1 or2hours(4-5kms)andcampnext option wouldbetocontinuehikingfor Branagin IslandValley.Another as wellthepassleadingtowards an amazingviewofBearsGutPlateau the day.Thisunnamedpeakprovides the lakewouldbeanicewaytocapoff hike tothetop)onoppositesideof the 1,000metresummit(aone-hour 6599311 N). Aneveningscrambleup of thesecondlake(20V485321E at agrassyspotonthewestside A possiblecampsitecanbefound south ofit. on thewestsideofnextlakejust at 20V485804E6500636Nand

A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Gut andtheLabradorSea. equally impressiveviewsofBears Mount Goetzethatwouldprovide accessible summitstothewestof also anumberofshorterandmore 494003 E6508871N).Thereare Goetze (1,150metres,UTM20V flies) towardsthesummitofMount about 7kilometres(asthecrow Skull Lakewouldbetohikewest Another possibledayhikefrom ALTERNATE ROUTE Steady climbSteady fromBearsGutPlateau A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Parks Boudreau, A. A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Parks Boudreau, A. Hikers keeping an eye out for the boat pick-up A pair of caribou in Branagin Island Valley

ROUTE DESCRIPTION SECTION 3 The final section of this hike can be Starting from the lake at 20 V 485321 travelled in an almost-straight line mini-landslides that could result in EMERALD LAKES AREA TO hiked over 2 days starting from the E 6599311 N, travel south for about from the water crossing to the east the person below you being struck BRANAGIN ISLAND VALLEY last campsite and ending at the mouth 1 kilometre and then east (for about side of these lakes, it is suggested that by falling rocks. Once you reach the 2.5 km) along the south slope if the you hike further down the slope (to bottom of the pass (20V 489526 E 20V 485321 E 6499311 N to of Branagin Island Valley. This is the most technical and dangerous section 1,000 metre summit that was scaled the east) to reach these lakes, which 6494903 N), make your way to the 20V 491884 E 6487142 N of the hike because of the scree slopes the previous day. In order to reach the are unsuitable for camping due to east side of the valley and start making Approximately 19 kilometres and boulder fields that you must travel start of the climb up and over the pass, rocky and uneven terrain. If you are your way down the valley towards over (hiking poles will come in handy you will need to hike around the north looking for a good campsite in this Saglek Fiord. here). Take your time – especially in of the largest of the emerald- area, you will find one at 20V 489218 wet weather – to avoid slipping and coloured lakes (aim for UTM 20V E 6495293 N next to a small lake To minimize the risk of polar bear falling in this rough terrain as this 487682 E 6498887 N). Next, follow surrounded by 1,000-metre peaks in encounters and also to break up this could result in a serious injury to you the eastern shore of the lake to reach every direction. section over 2 days, it is suggested that or one of your group members! a trouble-free water crossing at 20V you camp in this area (20 V 488969 E 488026 E 6498157 N. The very steep descent into Branagin 6493018 N), which is approximately Island Valley begins at 20V 489354 E 8 kilometres (4 hours of hiking) away After the water crossing, you will 6495326 N. You will descend approxi- from the pickup location on the east climb for approximately 1 kilometre mately 150 metres over a distance of side of the Branagin Island Valley. heading in a southeasterly direction 700 metres. Be very careful here and towards a pair of lakes (20V 488902 E make sure to spread yourselves out On the final day of the hike, after 6496313 N). Although the group during your descent to avoid creating travelling downstream for about 1 kilometre, angle southeast from pickup toavoidthetidalflats. to finddeeperwaterforyourboat you willhavetowalkalongtheshore middle ofthevalley.Iftideislow, the wetandboggyterrainin you willfindfirmergroundandavoid travel totheeastoflakeswhere Valley, itisrecommendedthatyou lower portionofBranaginIsland at 20V488920E6490676 N.Inthe 1.5 kilometres beforemovingdownhill along thescreeslopeforabout From here,thegrouptravelled you havearadioorsatellitephone. and theexacttimeofyourpickupif base camptoconfirmyourlocation it wouldbewisetomakecontactwith to seeBranaginIsland.Atthispoint, pickup location),youshouldbeable 6491123 N(approx.5kmawayfrom By thetimeyoureach20V488801E river’s edge,whichiswetandrocky. landslide), ratherthanfollowingthe line overlessvegetatedterrain(old save timebytravellinginastraight 6491881 N.Thiswillallowyouto 250 metres)at20V488575E the rivertohigherground(about

A. Boudreau, Parks Canada ROUTE DESCRIPTION ALTERNATE An alternate point of departure for Keep a close eye out for polar bears look for a second stream and the valley this route is Little Ramah Bay, which and black bears, especially in poor that begins at 20V 487321 E 6511685

ROUTE 1 is accessible by speedboat from base visibility. N. Work your way south up this valley LITTLE RAMAH BAY camp (2 to 3 hours). This should be a for about 4 km (either side of the TO SKULL LAKE relatively straightforward 8-kilometre If possible, start the hike on the valley should be fine) and make a right hike that would take about 4 hours to west side of Little Ramah Bay and turn (to the west) through a small gap complete. work your way up the valley to the at 20V 487672 E 6508449 N that will southwest, crossing over to the south lead you to the east side of Skull Lake. side of the stream that feeds into Little You will find a nice spot to camp at Ramah Bay. Once you make your way 20V 487074 E 6507561 N. to the south side of the main stream,

ROUTE DESCRIPTION ALTERNATE This route, which is the shortest canyon and waterfalls at 20V 490098 The following day, you will continue peak immediately to the northwest of route from Bears Gut to Branagin E 6504566 N, you will need to find a to work your way uphill towards the these lakes. This longer option would

ROUTE 2 Island, would take 3 or 4 days to hike safe location to cross over to the south pass leading into the Branagin Island allow you to make your way down the DIRECT ROUTE FROM BEARS GUT depending on when you reach Bears side of the river flowing into Bears Valley. If you hope to complete your pass into the Branagin Island Valley TO BRANAGIN ISLAND VALLEY Gut and when you arrange to be Gut. Once you reach the south side hike in 3 days/2 nights, you will want on your third day to reach the pickup picked up at Branagin Island. of the river, you will climb gradually to make your way over the pass and location by midday on your fourth and along the side slope of the peaks into the Branagin Island Valley by final day. The first portion of this hike is the directly south of the bottom of Bears the end of your second day. If you same as Section 1 of the main route Gut. Aim for the lake at 20V 489435 E have an extra day, however, you could description. Before you reach the 6500832 N, which could be a suitable camp near the emerald-coloured lakes location for your first campsite. at 20V 487656 E 6498086 N and potentially climb the 1,000-metre Important UTM Coordinates

Suggested campsites: The following are suggested campsites based on the route that was taken from Bears Gut to Branagin Island in August 2011. Skull Lake (NiaKuk) 20V 487074 E 6507561 N Unnamed lake west of emerald lakes 20V 485321 E 6499311 N

Branagin Island Valley Pass 20V 489218 E 6495293 N

Upper Branagin Island Valley 20V 488969 E 6493018 N

Points of interest:

Start of hike 20V 494958 E 6503450 N

Waterfalls and canyon 20V 490098 E 6504566 N

Water crossing 20V 485743 E 6504613 N

Scenic lookout 20V 486184 E 6502829 N

Emerald Lakes 20V 487666 E 6498081 N

Water crossing 20V 488026 E 6498157 N

Start of steep descent 20V 489354 E 6495326 N to Branagin Island Valley Start of caribou path leading up the pass 20V 489526 E 6494903 N

A. Boudreau, Parks Canada Parks Boudreau, A. Waterfalls 20V 489297 E 6494758 N

Pickup location on east side 20V 491835 E 6487234 N of Branagin Island Valley

Links: Torngat Mountains National Park website: http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/nl/torngats/index.aspx

Torngat Mountains Base Camp and Research Station: http://www.torngatbasecamp.com/home/