3.99 Volume 76, Number 16 June 26, 2020 Special Issue
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$3.99 VOLUME 76, NUMBER 16 JUNE 26, 2020 SPECIAL ISSUE 75 Fashionable Years MEREDITH BRUNER; DESIGNER: HALSTON 01-3-cover-intro-c2.indd 1 6/25/20 8:56 PM Consulting | Trend Books | P+ Digital Platform Peclers Paris, The leading consulting agency in Creative Strategy - Fashion, Beauty, Design & Lifestyle Trend Forecasting Inspire, validate, project and nourish a vision to develop more desirable products, services and experiences Contact: Jennifer Karuletwa [email protected] Tel: 310-890-6210 www.peclersparis.com 01-3-cover-intro-c2.indd 2 6/25/20 7:23 PM 75 Fashionable Years California Apparel News has proudly reported on our industry for 75 years, but never have we seen times like these. Our industry has been hit hard, to say the least, by a three- fold worldwide crisis—health, economic, and societal—but, as we come together to reimagine our industry, we will emerge better and more successful on the other side. This tumultuous time gives us an opportunity—forces us, really—to do the hard work of changing our thinking and business models in order to succeed in this new world of challenges. As California Apparel News marks its 75th year, we share a brief reflection on the history of our industry. We’ve come out of crises and upheavals before with great successes to show for it, and I have every confidence we will do so again. As our industry moves forward, California Apparel News will proudly continue to record its accomplishments. Thank you for 75 remarkable years. CEO/Publisher APPARELNEWS.NET JUNE 26, 2020 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3 01-3-cover-intro-c2.indd 3 6/25/20 7:23 PM 75 FASHIONABLE YEARS First Issue of California Apparel News July 6, 1945 4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JUNE 26, 2020 APPARELNEWS.NET 04-5-1940s-jf.indd 4 6/25/20 7:33 PM 75 FASHIONABLE YEARS 1940s Bread-and-butter fashions ring cash registers. Doll-waisted suits become the trend Some of the many servicemen returning to the apparel industry Post-War Expansion Servicemen Return to California Apparel More-Feminine Styles First Costume Design Plans for Publisher Apparel Industry Companies Set Up Emphasized After War Oscars Handed Out In 1946, the first full post-war California Apparel News editor Sourcing From Australia Post-war women’s fashions During the 20th anniversary of year, spirits are high, and there Osherenko writes about the ap- lead to more-feminine styles, as the Academy Awards ceremony, are “scores of expansion plans.” parel industry in the new Atomic In March of 1946, five Califor- waists are defined and busts accen- a new category is introduced to In February, California Apparel Age. “We can help to render [the nia apparel companies, including tuated in tasteful silhouettes. This acknowledge the work of the ded- News founder and editor Joe atom bomb] impotent by contribut- Cole of California, agree to set move away from the styles worn icated artists who create costum- Osherenko is preparing to launch ing to a way of life so pleasant for up production in Australia, sharing during the war when rationing ing in film. With the introduction The Californian magazine. The all that none will be seized with the space in a converted former small- was emphasized and women were of the Oscar for costume design national newsstand publication fiendish desire to use it toward our arms factory in the prime minister’s encouraged to conserve fabric or in 1949, the academy chose to is marketed as a source for destruction.” As apparel-industry hometown. The umbrella company, update existing garments, aligns highlight the work of costumers “inspirational fashions born of the servicemen return from war, they California Productions, Ltd., with the culture shift of women in two different categories—color California way of life.” are recognized and saluted. Now is controlled by Australian busi- abandoning their roles in facto- and black and white. The first re- in its third year, the Textile Asso- ness interests, but the California ries and returning to life as home- cipients are “Hamlet” and “Joan ciation of Los Angeles has grown companies retain their identities as makers. Prepared to fulfill their of Arc.” to 270 members, and the Univer- subsidiaries. The popularity of Cali- domestic duties, women begin sity of California, Los Angeles, fornia apparel is evident, yet, dur- to wear gentler, feminine styles, launches design classes in continu- ing April’s market, London-based epitomized in the first collection ing education. By April, the Cham- visitors are said to be “just looking” by a designer from Paris named ber of Commerce reports that more because of the British government’s Christian Dior—whose garments than 10 percent of the consumer’s ban on imports of U.S. merchan- accentuate a woman’s shape and 1945 dollars spent in California re- dise. The British buyers say they curves—when they are unveiled tail stores are dedicated to the pur- plan to import California fashion as in the French capital early in 1947. chase of apparel. soon as the restrictions are lifted. APPARELNEWS.NET JUNE 26, 2020 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 5 04-5-1940s-jf.indd 5 6/25/20 7:34 PM 75 FASHIONABLE YEARS 1950s The Amelia Gray store allures with a black, white, gilt and tweed background as a picture-frame complement to the ever-changing color-themed fashions. On Spring St., just below Seventh, the refacing of a large business and offi ce building with the street level being readied for a retail outlet. Coat dresses on trend Pre-Easter promotion Tweeds in fashion Downtown L.A. in S.F. Valley Sears Opens New Stores Enjoy Big Ann Lowe Designs for Editors Endorse Metamorphosis California’s growing economic Volume Affl uent Clientele California’s ‘Cultured Downtown Los Angeles is strength is reflected in new retail Business volume exceeding An accomplished dressmaker Sportswear’ slowly undergoing some very ex- projects such as one of the larg- all expectations marks the area’s for the wealthy in United States tensive alterations. By Aug. 18, at est Sears stores in America be- two big new stores—Robinson’s society, Ann Lowe designs brid- California’s “cultured look in least eight major reconstruction ing opened around the corner Beverly and May Co. Lake- al-party dresses and a portrait- sportswear” is unanimously cited jobs have been completed. Some from Laurel Canyon and Victory wood. Sales figures are not avail- collar bridal gown comprising 50 by the nation’s creative editors buildings have been refaced; oth- boulevards in Los Angeles’ San able, but overtaxed parking facili- yards of ivory silk taffeta for the reviewing the market’s Cruise ers have been torn down to give Fernando Valley. “The two-story, ties and jam-packed mobs in the anticipated nuptials of Jacqueline and Resort collections as guests way to new buildings or parking 180,000-square-foot building will stores have made it impossible Bouvier and U.S. Senator John of California Fashion Creators lots. In mid-August, the city Parks be run by a staff of 1,700 employ- for store executives to deny that F. Kennedy. According to the during press week. Esther Hotten, and Recreation Commission signs ees. It is estimated that the latest traffic has exceeded their high- National Museum of African director of women’s activities for a contract for the construction of Sears retailing plant cost $400,000 est hopes. Opening stock in the American History & Culture, radio station WTMJ Milwaukee, a subterranean garage under Per- to construct.” The emporium fea- new May Co. operation is quoted Lowe’s work was worn by cli- is enthusiastic about the market on shing Square—a project that has tures a sprawling womenswear at $5 million, while Robinson’s ents including the Auchincloss- her first official press-week visit. been sought for the past 25 years. section “equipped with 21 dress- Beverly has a startling inventory es (Bouvier’s stepfamily), the “The market is more ‘self-con- ing rooms, a large cafeteria, a roof believed to be at about $3 million. DuPonts, the Rockefellers and fident,’ and there is ‘less bizarre garden and a conveyor-equipped the Roosevelts. As a pioneer in and wiser use of color,’” she said. receiving and marking room where fashion history, Lowe is consid- merchandise is moved from deep ered by many to have been the inside delivery trucks on overhead first African American designer tracks down into the hands of stock to publicly gain a successful fol- people.” lowing. 6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS JUNE 26, 2020 APPARELNEWS.NET 06-7-1950s.indd 6 6/25/20 7:35 PM 75 FASHIONABLE YEARS Gov. Goodwin J. Knight signs a declaration that makes “Made-in-California Week,” slated for April 15–21, an offi cial statewide event. Watching the governor sign the declaration are, left to right, Franklin Archer (J. W. Robinson Co.), chairman of the California Retailers & Manufacturers committee; Emanuel H. Fineman (Hollywood Casuals), president of California Fashion Creators; Louis Tabak (Tabak of California), co-chairman with Archer; and Walter Powers (May Co.), general chairman of Made-in-California Week. The President and Mrs. Eisenhower James Galanos prophesies the full-length patio dress for summer. The style shown here has a white linen bodice darted and seamed in the inimitable Galanos manner. At the Fabric Futures Fashion Show, milliner Rex’s (with his model, Maruja) beautiful hats and his dexterity in handling them Catalina Reveals Out-of-This-World Collection provided a stimulating interlude in the program. Retailing’s Most Talked Ike in a Robe From Gov. Knight Urges Catalina Reveals Galanos Winner of Coty About Block M.