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Brecon Beacons & Southeast Wales ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Brecon Beacons & Southeast Wales Includes ¨ Why Go? Newport Wales’ southeast corner, where the misty River Wye me- (Casnewydd).................77 anders along the border with England, is the birthplace of Caerleon (Caerllion) .....81 British tourism. For over 200 years travellers have visited Monmouthshire this tranquil waterway and its winding, wooded vale, where (Sir Fynwy) ...................84 the romantic ruins of Tintern Abbey have inspired poets Chepstow and artists such as Wordsworth and Turner. (Cas-gwent) .................84 But there’s more to the region than the market towns and Brecon Beacons rural byways of the Lower Wye. To the west, the dramati- National Park ............... 95 cally serried South Wales valleys tell the story of the Indus- South Wales Valleys .... 114 trial Revolution through heritage sites and still close-knit communities. Move north and the landscape opens out to the magnificent upland scenery of Brecon Beacons Nation- al Park, where high mountain roads dip down to remote hamlets and whitewashed ancient churches. The hiking and Best Places mountain-biking terrain here is superb. to Eat ¨ The Whitebrook (p88) ¨ St John’s Place (p101) ¨ Mango House (p116) When to Go ¨ ¨ Walnut Tree (p94) Outdoor types should consider heading to Brecon Beacons National Park in late spring, early summer ¨ Tomatitos Tapas Bar (p101) or early autumn to take advantage of what should be reasonable weather (though there’s no guarantee). The narrow country roads may be impassable in winter, and Best Places become congested during school summer holidays (mid- to Sleep July to August). Many hostels and campgrounds don’t open till after Easter. ¨ The Bear (p100) ¨ The literary extravaganza of the Hay Festival runs from ¨ Celyn Farm (p96) late May until early June, the Green Man music festival ¨ Peterstone Court (p106) is in August, while foodies should focus a trip around ¨ Coed Owen Bunkhouse Abergavenny’s food festival in September. (p114) ¨ Pencelli Castle Caravan & Camping Park (p107) 77 NEWPORT and a twice-married homosexual who kept a boxing kangaroo. (CASNEWYDD) On the ground floor, the entrance hall POP 146,000 opens into the sumptuous grand dining Sitting at the muddy mouth of the River room. The adjoining ‘gilt room’ is blanketed Usk and flanked by the detritus of heavy in goldleaf and paintings of bare-breasted industry, Newport is never going to win mythological figures; you’re invited to re- any awards for beauty. However, Wales’ cline on the day bed in order to get a better third-largest city is in the process of smart- look. In another parlour there are period ening itself up, with the shiny new Friars costumes to try on and board games to play. Walk shopping complex opening up the his- The decor of the upstairs bedrooms toric city centre to a redeveloped riverside jumps forward in time to the 1930s, when BRECON BEACONS & promenade. A handful of interesting sights Evan Morgan was hosting his fabulous par- more than justify a day trip to the city, but ties at Tredegar. For the full Downton Abbey you’re unlikely to be tempted to stay over. experience, head ‘below stairs’ to explore the preserve of the Morgan’s numerous History servants. Newport takes its name from the fact that it was built after the ‘old port’ at Caerleon, fur- St Woolos Cathedral CHURCH ther upstream, following the construction of (%07933 627594; www.newportcathedral.org.uk; Stow Hill; h7.45am-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-6pm Newport Castle in Norman times. The Welsh S Sat, to 8pm Sun) A steep 10-minute walk up- name, Casnewydd, actually means ‘new cas- OUTHEAST WALES tle’ for much the same reason. Like many hill from the main shopping strip leads to harbour towns in South Wales, it grew rich Newport’s ancient cathedral. The building on the back of the iron and coal industries in provides a fascinating journey through his- the 19th and early 20th centuries. The lega- tory via a succession of distinct architectural cy of these boom times can be glimpsed in styles. the historic facades of Commercial St. The main door leads into the oldest part In the second half of the 20th century, of the building, a 9th-century stone chapel Newport’s shipbuilding industry disap- constructed to replace a wooden church NE SIGHT N peared, and the docks declined in impor- built here in 500 on the burial site of Welsh E WP tance as coal exports shifted to Barry and king-turned-monk St Gwynllyw (Woolos wp ORT is an English corruption of his name). The (CA ORT iron-ore imports to Port Talbot. In 2001 the S huge Llanwern steelworks closed down. Normans came next, represented by the magnificent Romanesque arch leading into (C 1 their grand nave (look up to the curved tim- A Sights SN bers of the medieval ‘wagon roof’). You can sn HISTORIC BUILDING E Tredegar House see the transition from the Romanesque to E W (NT; %01633-815880; www.nationaltrust.org.uk; W YDD the Gothic style in the pointy windows of the YDD) h house adult/child £7.20/3.60, parking £2; park outside aisles, which were grafted on later. dawn-dusk year-round, house 11am-5pm Feb-Oct; Newport’s prosperous Victorian period is ) p ) The seat of the Morgan family for more evident in the chancel, while the very end than 500 years, Tredegar House is a stone of the building is pure 1960s, including the and red-brick 17th-century building set amid painted marble effect behind the altar. extensive gardens, 2 miles west of Newport city centre. It is one of the finest examples of Newport Museum & Art Gallery MUSEUM a Restoration mansion in Britain, the oldest (%01633-656656; www.newport.gov.uk/museum; parts dating to the 1670s. The National Trust John Frost Sq; h9.30am-5pm Tue-Sat) F In took over management of the property in the same building as the tourist office and late 2011 and has done a great job bringing library, Newport Museum covers the town’s the fascinating stories of its owners to life. history from the prehistoric to the 20th The Morgans, once one of the richest century, via the Romans and the Industrial families in Wales, were an interesting lot. Sir Revolution. Henry was a 17th-century pirate (Captain Morgan’s Rum is named after him); God- Riverfront ARTS CENTRE (%01633-656757; www.newport.gov.uk/riverfront; frey, the second Lord Tredegar, survived the Kingsway; h10am-6pm Mon-Sat) Charge of the Light Brigade; and Viscount Opened in Evan was an occultist, a Catholic convert 2004, the city’s swish cultural centre takes .
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