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The Story of Rum National Nature Reserve

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Scotland’s National Nature Reserves For further information about Rum National Nature Reserve please contact: Scottish Natural Heritage, White House, Isle of Rum, Inverness-shire, PH43 4RR Telephone 01687 462026 Fax 01687 462805 E-mail: [email protected] The Story of Rum National Nature Reserve The Story of Rum National Nature Reserve Foreword Extinct volcanoes, wilderness, and spectacular wildlife await visitors to Rum National Nature Reserve (NNR). The island of Rum lies 25 kilometres off the coast from Mallaig on the west coast of Scotland. Conical shaped mountains and ancient rock formations provide clues to the dramatic volcanic beginnings of Rum. Ice has also shaped this island, but it is the debris from the volcano that is responsible for one of the great marvels of Rum. Here, on a mountain top, is one of the world’s largest colony of Manx shearwater – at least 23% of the world’s breeding population. Sea cliffs also support magnificent colonies of other seabirds, red-throated divers breed on inland lochans and golden and white-tailed sea eagles soar high above the mountains and moorland. More obscure wildlife includes rare plants, a rich diversity of mosses, lichen and fungi, and thousands of types of invertebrates. Otters also abound along the shorelines. An incredible mix of habitats supports this wealth of wildlife. Heaths, grasslands, sea cliffs, crevices and peatlands peppered with lochs and lochans have also earned the Reserve international recognition. Thousands of people visit Rum each year, many to see the wildlife, others just to walk and enjoy the landscape. While much of the island looks wild and natural, it bears the imprint of human settlement over much of the last 8000 years. From Kinloch Castle to lazy beds, Rum’s past human history is a story in itself. Rum is one of 58 NNRs in Scotland. Scotland’s NNRs are special places for nature, where some of the best examples of Scotland’s wildlife are managed. Every NNR is carefully managed both for nature and for people, giving visitors the opportunity to experience our rich natural heritage. More visitors than ever before are coming to Rum. A trend we aim to encourage whilst also ensuring Rum remains a special place for wildlife. The Story of Rum National Nature Reserve contains background information about Rum NNR, describing the wildlife interest, its land use history and management since it became a Reserve. How we intend to manage the Reserve in future years is outlined in the Reserve Proposals. We invite your comments on these proposals and your feedback informs the production of the final Reserve Plan, which is the blueprint for management of the Reserve for the next few years. For further information about Rum National Nature Reserve please contact: Scottish Natural Heritage, White House, Isle of Rum, Inverness-shire, PH43 4RR Telephone 01687 462026 Fax 01687 462805 E-mail: [email protected] ii Contents Foreword i Maps of Rum NNR iv 1 Introduction to Rum NNR 1 2 The Natural and Cultural Heritage of Rum NNR 5 3 Management of Rum before it became a NNR 18 4 Management of Rum NNR 22 5 Document properties 38 Appendix 1 – National Nature Reserves (NNR) 41 Appendix 2 – Special Area of Conservation (SAC) 43 Appendix 3 - Special Protection Area (SPA) 51 Appendix 4 - Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) 54 Appendix 5 - National Scenic Area (NSA) 58 Appendix 6 – Scheduled Ancient Monuments and Listed Buildings on Rum NNR 60 Appendix 7 – Reserve buildings on Rum 62 iii Maps of Rum NNR Location Maps Boundary of Rum NNR iv Map showing key locations on Rum NNR v 1 Introduction to Rum NNR Things can get rough on Rum. Battered by gale-force winds for 50 days a year and drenched in up to four metres of rain, Rum NNR is certainly open to the elements. The island of Rum is the largest of the “Small Isles”, tucked in below Skye along with the other Small Isles of Eigg, Muck and Canna. Visitors arrive by sea, mostly on the ferry from Mallaig which docks in the relatively calm waters of Loch Scresort. Rum’s most distinctive features, the Cuillins and the western hills, were formed 60 million years ago with the eruption of a volcano. The volcanic origins of Rum’s mountains may seem dramatic, but this small island bears testimony to other great events in the distant past. The mountains and hills are scarred by glaciers that ground their way through the island during the Ice Age. Rum also shows signs of higher sea- levels in the past. At Harris, an old beach is stranded 30 metres (m) above the present-day beach. The Reserve covers 10,684 hectares (ha) of mountain and moorland fringed by precipitous cliffs plunging into the sea. It is cut across by glens that run down to flatter, more fertile ground at the coast. The varied landscape, harsh climate, maritime influence, and isolation from the mainland, have together produced an equally varied and distinctive range of habitats, plants and animals. There is a spectacular array of internationally important habitats. A range of heaths from wet and dry to montane cloak the hillsides and mountain tops. Unusual grasslands, influenced by metals in the soil, fens, blanket bogs, lochs and lochans all contribute to this rich open ground habitat mosaic. In more precarious locations specialist scree and rock-crevice plants and a tall-herb vegetation found only on cliff ledges hang on. Natural woodland is scarce on the Reserve with only scattered pockets of the original woodland surviving, mostly on cliffs or in gullies where grazing animals cannot reach it. Most of the woodland seen by visitors is the legacy of many years of tree planting management to restore woodland to the Reserve. Other habitats on Rum include small areas of machair and sand dune. Some animals, common on the mainland, have never managed to make it across the short stretch of sea. There are no snakes, frogs or toads and few mammals. There is no doubt however, that the plants and animals that Rum does have make up a fascinating assemblage that draws many visitors to the island. Internationally important breeding colonies of seabirds, two species of eagle that nest regularly, red- throated divers, otters and invertebrates all thrive on the island. This wildlife resource and the island’s red deer population have made Rum world famous as a centre for ecological research. 1 Rum is easier to visit than ever, now that the ferry can dock directly at the quayside, and there’s plenty to do for visitors; fabulous scenery, great walking, world-class wildlife, fascinating history, and a castle with what is regarded as the best Edwardian interior in Britain. Rum became Scotland’s second National Nature Reserve in 1957. It also hosts a whole suite of accolades in recognition of its internationally and nationally important natural heritage. Virtually the entire island is designated as a Special Area of Conservation (SAC) recognising the importance of the otter population and a wide range of upland, coastal and freshwater habitats. Rum is also designated a Special Protection Area (SPA) because of the internationally important breeding populations of Manx shearwaters, red-throated divers, and the wide range of other breeding seabirds. Many of these features are also included in the island’s designation as a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The recognition as a European site of international importance (SPA and SAC) means that Rum is part of a Europe-wide suite of areas referred to as Natura sites. This extremely important group of sites includes for example, islands off the west coast of Ireland, in the Azores and in the Mediterranean, and high-profile national parks such as those in the Canary Islands. The inclusion of Rum in such impressive company reinforces the message that it can be considered as one of the best sites in Europe. The Earth science importance of the Reserve is also recognised with no less than seven Geological Conservation Review (GCR) sites, all of which are protected as Rounded western hills in the foreground with the peaked Rum Cuillin beyond. 2 designated features within the SSSI. On a wider scale, Rum is included within the Lochaber Geopark and also falls within The Small Isles National Scenic Area (NSA). Further details of these designations are provided in the Appendices. Rum’s archaeological and built heritage has also been recognised, with 19 Scheduled Ancient Monuments (SAM) and seven listed buildings, as well as a garden on the ‘Inventory of Gardens and Designed Landscapes’. Table 1 Designations and qualifying features for Rum NNR Designation Special Area Special Site of Special for Protection Area Scientific Conservation European UK Habitats Machair – short-turf Proposed for grassland on shell sand removal Sand dunes Proposed for removal Sea cliffs 9 9 A range of upland 9 habitats, including: Base-rich scree 91 Dry heaths 91 Wet heathland with cross- 91 leaved heath Grasslands on soils rich in 9 heavy metals Species-rich grassland 9* with mat-grass in upland areas Blanket bogs 9* Alpine and sub-alpine 9 heaths Tall herb communities 9 Depressions on peat 9 substrates Base-rich fens 9 Acidic scree 9 Plants in crevices in base- 9 rich rocks Plants in crevices on acid 9 rocks 3 Designation Special Area Special Site of Special for Protection Area Scientific Conservation European UK Acid peat-stained lakes 91 Clear-water lakes 91 Species Breeding seabird 9 assemblage, including: guillemot and kittiwake Manx shearwater 9 9 Red throated diver 9 Otter 91 Vascular plant 9 assemblage Bryophyte assemblage 9 Invertebrate assemblage 9 Earth Science Quaternary of Scotland 9 Tertiary Igneous 9 1 Habitats or species that are primary reasons for selecting Rum as a SAC * Priority habitats under the EC Habitats Directive 4 2 The Natural and Cultural Heritage of Rum NNR The range of internationally and nationally important heritage on Rum is so extensive that it’s difficult to do it justice in a short text.
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