The Photography Annual Pictures Worth Reading

VOLUME SEVENTEEN, NUMBER FOUR STANDUP JOURNAL

Dave Collins leaning into the 22,000-plus cubic feet per second, Class III Lunch Counter rapids, Snake River, Wyoming, by Greg Von Doersten The Photography Annual Pictures worth reading

$12.95 US/Canada ALA MOANA A Familiar Shadow on the Horizon, by Gerry Lopez CRAFTSMAN Reflections & Background: The Shape of Sup, by Steve Boehne THE WEST SIDE New Sport, New Ways to Wipeout, by Steve West

VOLUME SEVENTEEN, NUMBER FOUR QUARTERLY $12.95

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SUP_jouranl_0110.indd 2-3 9/22/2009 2:39:07 PM That’s Classic

loha and Welcome to The Rockies Whitewater kayaking is how Ken ‘Hobie’ Hoeve and I have gotten our water fix since moving from northeast Florida to Colorado 15 years ago. What a big change A for us both! We missed surfing… until now. After years of kayaking exploits on some of the hardest class 5 rivers we could find, we have now discovered the beauty and fun of paddling boards down the river and it’s keeping us at a whole new level on the Fun Zone. One day, while paddling a class 2 section of our backyard run on the Eagle River, we saw this stack of logs diverting the water. Stepping outside the box—rather jumping off it—proved to be a fun way for Ken to test Surftech’s Blacktip board in preparation for its new design. Ken landed this jump and paddled away—and, yes, the board held up. I’m just glad he cleared his safety leash before jumping or it could have gotten ugly. –Matt Solomon, Photographer

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VOLUME 17, NUMBER FOUR, WINTER 2009-2010 “The photographic journal of standup paddling” Published by Clay Feeter Associate Publisher: Steve Sjuggerud Photographic Consultant: Glenn Dubock Design and Layout by Kerry Struble; Birchblaze.com Orchestrator: Joyce Bilodeau Editorial Consultants: John Dubock, Tom Byrnes, Clark Merritt, Kurt Feeter, Rob Driscoll, Tom Craig Columnist: Steve West Copy Editor: Zachary Ernst Newsstand Consultant: Tom Ferruggia Website Optimizer: Adam Champagne Interns: Kyle Laubach, Kira, Sydney & Anna Feeter TIM McKENNA West Set Shift: Laird Hamilton, Teahupoo Standup Journal is published quarterly in March, “I remember this set, it was a really west one on a mostly June, September and December by Clay Feeter, south swell. It took our boat driver by surprise, he had to accelerate out a little bit so we wouldn’t get caught inside. I P.O. Box 360 (UPS/FedEx: 16 Ridge Rd.) clicked off this shot as we edged over the wave. Laird caught Center Barnstead, NH 03225 the most set waves that day.” –Tim [email protected] Subscriptions: StandupJournal.com/subscribe “Australian Tim McKenna lives in Tahiti. I first met Tim years ago on a snowboard trip to Russia with the Oxbow team from 8 To best enjoy our publication: Use your hands to flatten the gutter. We also recommend viewing the images well lit by a reading lamp France. He’s basically made a career of shooting this wave. or the sun… and cranking up the tunes! He’s got it down.” –Laird 10 11 IN CALIFO DE RN A IA M ,U S ELITE RACERA

U IC K B LA M D .CO E PADDLES

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Photo: Don King PHOTOGRAPHYPHOTOGRAPHY

Camera in hand, our eyes are always open “It was a very long way through the cactus and the rocks to find this spot. It’s a beach break but the water is super clear and hot... perfect, and lonely; just dolphins and snakes sometimes.” –Max

MAXIME HOUYVET Manu Bouvet, Mainland Mexico “We were in Mexico trying to find some good sup surfing conditions. Puerto Escondido was not really 14 an option; too busy, and deadly for the board since we only bought one and would have hated to break it and have nothing to ride! We can’t name this wave 15 because localism is extremely heavy in this area. If you don’t have a local contact you just can’t have access to the spots. It was not easy, but the reward was worth the effort.” –Manu RICHARD HALLMAN Nikki Gregg, Punch Bowl Falls, Eagle Creek, Oregon “River running is nothing to take lightly. Getting your board lined up to make a big drop while riding it tail first, without fins in a fast-moving river current is a challenge. One mistake and you’re swimming over the falls hoping you don’t land on your board, or the rocks—a dangerous option. Total concentration is needed here. At this point I knew my positioning was good, and suddenly an uncontrollable smile sprang onto my face reflecting, I think, the appreciation of joining with nature’s power; a moment of pure awareness—a completely perfect state of being.” –Nikki Editor’s Note: Photographer Hallman had a scheduled slide show in Hood River later this day, so he slipped a few shots up on the screen of Nikki and her boyfriend Dan Gavere running Punch Bowl. When this shot of Nikki flashed onto the screen, “The response was of complete shock: an initial silence followed by a lot of ‘OH MY GODs!!’… hooting and hollering!” We asked Nikki why she goes tail first. She replied, “There is a rock near the bottom of this drop that is best avoided by riding the board tail first. There is much more rocker in the front of the board; this method lifts the board higher in the air. If you rode the board nose first it might hit the rock and eject you, quite violently, before landing the drop! “We only do this for waterfalls. We run rivers with fins in. Dan and I turn the boards tail first/fins first when approaching and 16 paddling through shallow sections because the worst fall you can 17 have is your fins catching a rock and launching you face first off the board, possibly onto another rock!”

PAUL GILL Chris ‘Guts’ Griffiths, Sandside, Northern Scotland “This part of Scotland is so beautiful, but especially in late summer when the fields are full of the smell swilly.com.au of just-cut hay and the water temperature is at its warmest, around 14 degrees Celsius [57 degrees Fahrenheit]. Even at this time of year the crowds are minimal and you can find some real solitude around almost every corner. It’s like turning back the clock 30 years or more!” –Guts

BUZZY KERBOX Maalaea Bay, Maui “Sharing time in the summer swells. They got some great set waves this day, and also had some wipeouts, but the dog would climb right back on the board for more.” –Buzzy NEW SHAPE NEW SHAPE

BOMBORA HANALEI MANO STRIKER CRUISEÊCONTROL ALBATROSS SLICE BigÊWave/FlatÊSpeed Surf/ÊFlat ShortÊBoardÊSurf VersatileÊSurf AllÊAround RaceÊ/ÊTour DisplacementÊHull 18 12Õ 10Õ8,Ê10Õ4,Ê10Õ0,Ê9Õ8 10Õ2,Ê9Õ9,Ê9Õ4,Ê9Õ1 9Õ5,Ê8Õ11 11Õ6,Ê11Õ0,Ê10Õ6,Ê9Õ10 12Õ6 12Õ6 WWW.JIMMYLEWIS.COM DISTRIBUTEDÊBY:ÊFUACATAÊSPORTSÊLLCÊPhone:Ê(786)206-5724ÊEmail:Ê[email protected]ÊDEALERÊINQUIRIESÊWELCOME. HANK FOTO (Below left) Catchin’ on in Haleiwa Harbor, Oahu. KIYOTAKA KITAJIMA (Below middle) Cruising Iriomote Island, Okinawa. “It’s very fun to advance in the jungle by sup and suddenly arrive at this waterfall in the mangrove forest,” says Tomo Murabayashi of Omaezaki, Japan. BRYAN ELKUS (Below right) Lightning Bolt Maui shop owner and local ripper, Frank Forbes, with one of his many custom shaped boards. Of this design, Frank notes, “I grew up surfing, not paddling, so I wanted my sup board to surf like my surfboards. To think just two years ago I was riding a fiberglass 12’ x 29” x 5” sup board that surfed like a barge and now I’m on an epoxy 8’4” x 27” x 3.75” that surfs just like a surfboard. I can’t wait to see what is going to change next.”

DAN FISKE (Middle) “My first thoughts as I scrambled to get my camera out of the bag to shoot this guy paddling at Kahului Harbor (which only barrels overhead one or two swells a year) was that he must be really good… or on vacation.” –Dan MIKE JONES (Above left) TJ Saeman on the day he and brother Bryce first sup’d big Wedge, Newport Beach: “These are my little junior lifeguard buddies, Jack Vandermeulen and Dylan Hord. After I would wipe out, my board would get caught in the lateral current and wash down the beach, and that’s where these guys ran down and brought it back to me as I was exiting the water. Thanks guys!” CLAY VALVERDE (Above middle) Kainoa McGee. KIM ENRIQUES (Above right) Team Jimmy Lewis Central Cal Coast: (l-r) young ripper Tristan Harrison, Bill Callahan, Richard ‘Laird’ Harrison, Wart Craig, Don Baxter (father of Central Coast sup’ing) and Mike 20 Enriques (kneeling). Mexico, 8’11” Ron House Single Fin 11” 29” 4.625” 8’10” 28“ 4.125” 9’1” 28“ 4.125” 9’2” 31“ 4.75” 9’10” 28“ 4.125” 10’6” 32“ 4.125” 11.3” 29“ 4.375” 12” 30“ 4.75”

MARGARETA ENGSTROM Scott McKercher, Vietnam “These moments definitely fit into the Bizarre Category of my sup paddling experiences. We were kind of locked into the standard tourist routine of going for a guided cave walk with the hordes when I decided I’d way rather check the area out by paddle power. So, taking off around the corner from all the tourist boats I happened onto a floating village. Even for people who live on the water, seeing someone standing up on a board was pretty strange and it caused a bit of a commotion. Kids were freaking out, calling me over and jumping on the board for a ride. I think it was a great way to slip into their water world and be welcomed in with 22 big smiles. The rest of the trip we lived on junks and went for little exploratory paddles each day. It was pretty surreal.” –Scott 23

www.rivierapaddlesurf.com 949 388 6999 LUKE HOPKINS Great Falls National Park, Virginia/Maryland Border Mike Mathwin (left) discussing potential standup avenues with Hopkins, who set the camera on a timer for this shot.

SERGIO VILLALBA MORALES Kai Lenny, Siam Park, Tenerife, Spain “This wave is insane! I had so much fun. The way I caught the waves was I would start to paddle in close to the back wall of the pool, and all of a sudden a wave would pop up and I would drive down the face into a bottom turn and work it all the way to the end of this huge pool! The waves come every 45 seconds, so you can paddle back out just in time for the next one.” –Kai

JON ‘SHAGGY’ McLAUGHLIN Shaggy, of Oregon-based Sawyer Paddles, digs deep on Union Falls Pond; part of last summer’s solo standup canoe expedition on the Northern Forest Canoe Trail, from Old Forge to Plattsburg, in the Adirondacks. “The canoe is the way to go for expedition style, multi-day sup trips,” says Jon. “Load it down with gear and go for days!” Shaggy paddled 150 miles over a 12-day period, completely self-contained with 150-plus pounds of gear. This water trail traces parts of the old fur trade routes, connecting chains of lakes with sections of rivers. It includes a handful of mile-plus long portages. “At the end of my trip I had to cross a bay in Lake Champlain during a heavy gale; 3-to-4-foot capping wind waves coming at me from my starboard side. When big ones would hit I’d have to do these SUPER deep braces where half of my sup paddle was in the water! I finally rode the surf onto the beach.” Search “stand up canoeing” on YouTube.com for some cool clips; also check out 25 Shaggy’s trip blog: standupcanoeing.blogspot. com, or plan your own NFCT adventure at northernforestcanoetrail.org NEIL ‘MOONWALKER’ ARMSTRONG (Top left) Noah Shimabukuro, Mexican Pipeline “Crouched just so, eyes down the line, paddle scraping the face, Noah’s style is quiet, calm and calculated whether he’s here at Puerto Escondido or winning Rainbow Sandals’ King & Queen of Dog Patch wave contest at San Onofre.” –Neil SKIP BROWN (Top right) Luke Hopkins peels into heavy water below Great Falls, on the Potomac River. JORDAN HETRICK (Above) Maui’s extreme class off to a fast start at the Olukai race.

26 27 BEN THOUARD “With a board mount camera you feel so close to the rider! You feel like you’re in the picture. On this frame Manu dropped in a bit late so the nose made a water explosion at the bottom. Manu is a good surfer. It didn’t take him much time to get used to the weight of the camera and housing on the nose, but there were some near misses, and he realized, ‘You don’t want to have the whole contraption flying over your head.’ Luckily there were no injuries.” –Ben

MOONWALKER Pipeline: Kainoa McGee x 2 “I was actually shooting with Bonga Perkins and some of the longboard guys over at Haleiwa earlier in the day—sort of a celebration of his latest world title win—when a couple of the guys mentioned that Ekolu and Kainoa were going to be out at Pipe late in the afternoon. Surfing a sup at Pipe is one thing, doing sup when Second Reef Pipe is breaking is on the precipice of incredibly brave/insanely nuts. Both of them caught some bombs and all on the beach were hyped at the performance. The buzz was palpable. Kainoa has already proven himself as a waterman, riding every type of board (he used to be a professional bodyboarder), and now taking it 28 up a notch with standup.” –Neil 29 ROBERT ZALESKI (Left) Marcus Young: Surfing Utah “Marcus is a fellow Hollywood stuntman buddy of C4’s Brian Keaulana. This is a Malibu wakeboard boat designed to throw up a surge by adding water ballast within the hull.” –Ted Rutherford JIM BREWER (Top right) Santa Cruz surf legends Flea and Barney with Brenda Scott Rogers of Hotline Wetsuits. DAN GAVERE (Above middle) Josh Bechtel’s puppy was hesitant at first, but eventually got on the board and was instantly comfortable, walking the plank, front to back in Buena Vista, Colorado. KARL MEINHARDT (Above right) Keoni Downing and Tiare Lawrence talking shop at the Kuikaika event, Makaha. PETER AUGUSTIN (Below) Waterman performance artist Mickey Eskimo, accompanied by the love of his life, hit it at dawn through the dreamy, fog-draped canals of Venice... how much more romantic could it get? During Mickey’s “sup mission” he was nicknamed il pirati de canale grande (pirate of the grand canal) by the gondoliers and water taxi captains as he dodged various carabinieri (police) boats and other obstacles to leave his own artistic impression on the below-sea-level city. Check out some of the footage on youtube.com by searching “Mickey Eskimo, Venice,” or go to eskyflavor.com for a tour of Mickey’s sup dreams.

30 PERRY NELSON (Below left) Warren Currie flowing with the ice down the North Saskatchewan River, Edmonton, Alberta, Canada Warren remembers, “This was the last ‘nice’ day we had before plunging into winter, so I decided to take advantage of it. The following day the temperature dropped to -22 degrees and the river froze solid until early April. Sup is always an adventure.” CORRAN ADDISON (Below right) Christine Pinsonneault and Andreanne Dumas, Montreal “We have beautiful bodies of water to sup on here, and beautiful bodies on sups! Either way, it’s a wonderful thing.” –Corran

BATTLE OF THE PADDLE AD COMING

HANK FOTO Darrick Doerner, Waimea “We call him Double D for short. From lifeguarding, to helping pioneer tow surfing, to being one of the best surfers at Sunset, to going over the falls at Waiamea Bay as a stunt double for Patrick Swayze in Point Break, Darrick is a true waterman. He has seen and done it all on the North Shore and now he is just trying to be the best 32 father figure for his son Tiger. This is Double D during the Eddie Aikau contest ceremonial paddle out at Waimea.” –Hank 33 DANA EDMUNDS Greg Pavao testing out his new 9’6” on the West Side.

JEOFFREY NATHAN (Above left) Kim James cools down after a hard paddle at Coastal Urge’s bi-weekly Sup Race Club in Wilmington, North Carolina, where (Above middle) the women’s class paddles back to the Fish House after a 3.5 mile Harbor Island tour. JAYPEGPHOTO Marathon Sup Victory: Devises to Westminster Canoe Race “Paddling 125 miles over four days seemed like a great idea back in the pub!” England’s John Hibbard told a friend minutes after his longest paddle. The hardest thing was the training for this longstanding annual springtime traditional sit-down race, according to John, “Because you have to start preparing in mid winter; black nights, cold winds.” If training partner Anthony Cooper and Hibbard could survive the 400-plus miles of training, “125 miles during the Thames River race would be easy, right? It was amazing to cross the finish line in London and silence all doubters. There is a movement from kayak purists to stop us from entering this event in the spring—interesting times, we’ll see what happens!”

MAXIME HOUYVET “Campbell Farrell from New Zealand and I caught outer Spreckelsville on a really nice 4-6-foot spring day—no wind, which is pretty rare for that time of the year.” –Manu Bouvet DANA EDMUNDS Shaper Dave Parmenter (left) and Greg Pavao open ocean training near Makapuu, Oahu, prior to the Rainbow Sandals Molokai Crossing.

MOONWALKER Central Surf Tube Contest, Puerto Escondido, Mexico “It’s almost impossible to talk about the Saeman brothers separately—they surf together, train together and charge hard together—brotherhood and backup team all in one. This is TJ with speed and conviction, a Saeman Bros. trademark.” –Neil “Oh, I remember this wave perfectly. It was the first day of the contest and my first heat. I had a late drop and got lucky enough to stick the landing in time to set up for the tube. That contest was a lot of fun, gracias to Puerto’s Angel Salinas.” –TJ Saeman

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805 450-9490 &TU

JODY McDONALD “Sup board shaper John Amundson, of Oahu, and some friends scored 10 days of great Somoan waves, culture and adventure. It was a boat journey to a new spot each day with no particular goal other than to surf. Our unspoken, easygoing theme along the way might make a good name for a yacht: You get the drift” –Jody

.BVJ)BXBJJ 38 8FTU$PBTU64" &BTU$PBTU64" 39 JIM RUSSI (Top) Leleo Kinimaka leaves his mark! That’s Vanina Walsh gracing the horizon as she scampers back for more at Waikiki. MOONWALKER (Above left) Duane Desoto, Puerto Escondido “After so many days of tubes I was getting delusional and thought I could walk on water.” –Duane 40 ANGELO CORDERO (Above right) Thomas Kosmoll riding it out at Tres Palmas, Puerto Rico. 41 JORDAN HETRICK (Above) Stetching it out. SAUVAGE OCEAN (Right) Sophie Wattrelot and her husband Didier, both from France, have two kids born and raised on boats. The couple charters their 60-foot sailing yacht Sauvage Ocean on cruises to tropical waters, Pacific islands and also to cold places, most recently to Fly WE Fly HRS Antarctica where Sophie broke out 9’6” / 10’0” / 10’6” 10’0” / 10’6” / 11’0” her sup board and “paddled among the icebergs, in front of glaciers and with the penguins.” GLENN DUBOCK (Bottom, right) UC Santa Barbara soccer star Genelle Ives finds coastal cruising a perfect compliment to her time on the practice field. SWILLY (Below) Jamie Mitchell, Eastern Oz “Shooting Jamie Mitchell (pictured) and Billy Watson [see pg. 85] on this day, made me realize what great waterman these guys are. Jamie is just insane; how fit he is. At one point he took three 10-foot set waves on the head. No life jacket, no wetsuit, just him and his boardies and board; got washed down the reef, came up with a smile on his face, then he was right back there charging more insane Rider: Marcilio Browne pits. It was one of those days I will Pic: Klaas Voget never forget. Mother ocean at her best.”” –Swilly Williams

Some hardcore R&D’s given birth to three super Fly SUP shapes. These beautiful CAD-engineered boards bene t from intelligent volume placement and surf-speci c rocker and outlines.

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WWW.FANATIC.COM, Next Sports LLC., Miami/Florida, tel: (305) 255 0111, [email protected]

F10_SUP_9,25x11,5_StandUpJournal_UK.indd 1 29.09.09 09:59 Distributor of Paddle Surf Hawaii SUP Boards. 44 45 Santa Barbara, California Photo - Jim Russi PSH Team Rider - Ikaika Kalama 805 450-9490 bluelinepaddlesurf.com “I shot this landmark event from the bridge to give a different perspective of river standup and the crowds that came out to see what this new sport is all about.” –Todd

ALLEN MOZO We photographers gotta work our gills, too! “This shot is taken from TODD PATRICK Noland Martin at Paul Tefft’s Standup River Championships, Glenwood Springs, Colorado When Oahu ripper Noland Martin’s friend and the pit a split second before Robby Naish committed to a rail to start his turn; fun C4 teammate Liam Wilmott asked what it was like transitioning from riding Hawaiian waves to surfing standing river waves here, Noland replied, “Bra, it was angle to shoot from—always a workout and challenge! I call it the penalty box. Robby kinda cool having a crowd so close on the river bank that you could hear them cheering and clapping. This was only my second time on a river wave, so I was has a unique paddle stance. You can always picture a windsurf boom or kitebar in his still feeling it out. After the event was over I stayed there. It was just me and this young, big shot kayak kid named Dane Jackson who had been competing on hands.” –Allen the other side of the river at the US Kayak Team Trials. The trials had ended and now he was out for fun, doing loops on an old bodyboard. I started to really 46 get river waves by watching Dane lay down some big snaps.” 47 TIM McKENNA “Patrice Chanzy scores one of the biggest and cleanest barrels of the day. Raimana is cheering him on from the channel as a UK production crew films surfers Tom Lowe and Fergal Smith for an upcoming feature film documentary on extreme sports entitled Relentless.” –Tim PETER SPAIN Tom Thompson of Incline Village, Nevada, lays down fresh tracks on Lake Tahoe’s wintertime glass.

JIM RUSSI “TJ [Saeman] is a summertime lifeguard from Laguna Beach, Calif., but spends a lot of the winter on the North Shore. Two days before he had to go back to Cali we ran to town for an early south swell. After another Hawaiian big wave season under his belt, coming hard off the bottom of this little Waikiki wave was feeling pretty free and easy for him.” –Jim 25 Years Later: Gerry Lopez returns to and Indonesia and later when I moved to Maui, those Ala Mo days drifted away from my consciousness. Ala Moana with a sup under his arm Sadly, 25 years or more went by without any Ala There was a time in my life when I thought there was Mo sessions. People started calling the place “Bowls,” nowhere else in the world I wanted to be during the Ala Moana which to me and the old guys seemed out of place as surf season. the Bowl was one take-off at a dynamic surf spot that And for many years, the Ala Mo parking lot or line-up had several starting places depending on the surf size consumed my summer days. Of course, when we discovered Bali and swell direction. Returning this summer for my first Molokai Channel crossing on a sup board, I also had the opportunity to return to the most favorite surf spot of the 1960’s and ‘70’s phase of my life. Many of the younger crew and even several of the old guys still surf there and it was like an old reunion, especially since the waves were great. According to them, it had been one of the most consistent summers in a long while. I laughed and replied that they were too young to remember it used to always be like this. But the conditions were perfect and even though I was riding a sup, the boys’ welcome was warm and full of aloha. During a late afternoon session as the tide went out, several sets began to show at the Bowl and I hung there in hopes of scoring what we used to call a “Pole Set.” I enjoyed a few nice, smaller Bowl waves when suddenly I saw the old familiar shadow on the horizon as a bigger set approached. I had been talking story with Jun Jo, one of the younger hot shot surfers and we both paddled outside. The first wave looked really good and I began to paddle for it but noticed Jun was in a good position as well and had a very expectant look on his face so I motioned him to take it. I turned to paddle over his wave, seeing the next one was quite a bit bigger. I had to paddle hard to get placement. I was the only one in the Bowl and I could hear the guys in the Middle yelling for me to go. While the wave doesn’t appear so big in the photos, it was enough to get my full attention as I thought how it was going to be to backdoor the Bowl section on a sup board. But I had great confidence in my new Surftech 8’-11” quad as I spun in the pit. Stroking into the wave brought back a rush of old memories with a very strong and familiar feeling. It was like coming home and not having been away for 25 years. A gust of wind blowing out of Manoa Valley combed the texture perfectly as I dropped down the face deep to let the bowl form ahead. Then it was there as quickly as a magic trick and I turned into that gaping hole where I had once spent DANA EDMUNDS Gerry received a warm “Welcome Home!” from surfers, so much of my youth. As it had always done before, I felt the many of whom were not born yet when Lopez, Michael Ho, Buttons Kaluhiokalani, Larry Bertlemann and the rest of that hot Ala Moana wave’s energy run through my board, feet, up my legs, into my crew first hit the water here in the 70s. guts and bloom into a big smile on my face. Yeah, coming home is a nice feeling. –Gerry Lopez

50 PAT HUBER “The swoop” was briefly on display last summer, Gerry reveling in that “familiar shadow on the horizon.” JIM RUSSI (Left page, top) “Young Vanina Walsh emulating the zen master, Leleo Kinimaka, at Waikiki.” –Jim MOONWALKER (Left page, bottom) Qaulicum, Vancouver Island, Canada “Rachel Jacobs heads for the bridge as Colin Kearns, owner of Island Longboards, and a buddy get a quick cover-up thanks to a low hanging tree. This shot epitomizes Canada in summer: clean, clear, beautiful and balmy. I’ve shot in many countries, but Canada is one of my all time favorites, man I miss that place—I’ll definitely be spending more time there.” –Neil

WES PRACHT (Above) TJ Saeman: First ever sup’ing of The Wedge, Newport Beach, Calif. “This was my last wave on the [July] 24th. I was sitting out in the back for a while waiting for the one that looked like it was going to set up nicely. Then this set came: I paddled over the first wave and saw the second—I had a good angle on it so I turned around and paddled to where I thought the side wave and main peak were going to collide. I got into it pretty early and outside so I had enough time to set up a bottom turn before the closeout. I was surprised I went as far as I did on this one! My brother Bryce and I scored this day at the Wedge; to get such a powerful wave this close to home is rare.” –TJ

BEN THOUARD (Below) Steady Urgency “Didier Tin Hing is almost caught in the flats on a west bowl shift at Teahupoo. Sometimes at Teahupoo you have to think not just about which wave you’re taking but also which one you should NOT go on! Didier had just taken an inside, smaller wave. He kicked out and then a really west set surprised him, which meant he really had to hurry. The scariest thing here is being pounded on the inside where the water is shallowest! As you can see, Didier has given two super quick, hard strokes on his left side, which threw him a little too much to the right—the wave would have hit him from the side. This shot shows a big left side paddle explosion and then his super quick transition to the right side stroke to straighten his board out so it can pierce the wave straight on.” –Ben

52 SWILLY (Right page, top) Keahi DeAboitiz, at just 16 year of age, placed 3rd in the 2009 Australian national sup championships, held at Port Macquarie. To watch him in action you’ll be thrilled—and get some sweet style pointers—with a “Keahi DeAboitiz” search on youtube.com. DARRELL WONG (Right page, middle left) “I met Eddie Vedder [singer for the band Pearl Jam] through a mutual friend. I got to know Eddie before I knew about how big a star he was. It was the same thing with my friend Ben Harper [musician/songwriter]… a relaxed way to get to know both of them. Eddie has a certain majesty about him… among all the chaos he seems at peace.” –Laird Note: Eddie shows his support for environmental activism by sporting an Earth First! tattoo on his right calf. The logo is a monkey wrench crossed with a stone hammer. COURTESY CHUCK (Right page, middle right) Leo Carrillo Beach, Malibu: Hobie team rider Byron Kurt holds up his daughter Brin as well as his 2nd place booty for his stock 12’6 class finish. Overall and 18’ unlimited board class winner was Chuck Patterson.

CASEY ROSSI “This Costa Rican sup surfer goes by the name of Tiger. There’s a new crew of guys here who are standing up and paddling into a few bombs, pushing each other day by day.” –Casey

PERRY NELSON (Right page, bottom) “My brother Scott and I had a short session in the West Edmonton Mall wave pool the other day to show the managers and lifeguards what sup is all about. We have opened the door for future sessions. Really fun time to be indoors but still be in full sunlight and warm water in the middle of a Canadian winter.” –Warren Currie, The Easy Rider Surf Shop, Alberta BOB BANGERTER “Even Kai Lenny knows that there is more MORGAN HOESTEREY “I was up at Pipe the other day while Kainoa McGee was out on his standup. I got a photo that I thought may fit in with your magazine’s to life in Hawaii than big surf and high winds... Kai and Inanna more backed-off style. It is kind of a different view of Pipe... shows the whole wave. I have so many shots of him at Pipeline that look exactly like what everyone Carter enjoying a sunset cruise at home on Maui’s north else has, and this is the first one that I thought was truly different.” –Morgan shore.” –Bob

JS CALLAHAN/TROPICALPIX (Above left) “The Silver Dragon tidal bore in Hangzhou, China, is the largest in the world, reaching up to 10 feet on the biggest tides TIM DITTY (Above, left) TJ Saeman, Puerto Escondido. of the year. Along with size it also offers a long ride. Frenchman Eric ‘The Hulk’ Audoy rode this wave for more than six miles upriver on his standup, setting a KALIANG (Above, right) “After spending two and half months in Hawaii, I decided to go to the Mentawais for a couple months. When I got here I made friends new world record.” –John with two guys, Kaliang and Andy, both ripper surfers. Kaliang plays guitar exactly like Jack Johnson and shoots photos damn well, too. So for the past month I JODY McDONALD (Above, right) Moehau Goold dices and slices: “It took a tip from Pete Cabrinha, who joined us on this trip, nearly a year of planning, airline have been diving, surfing, suping, and entertaining the guests here at Kandui.” –TJ flights half-way around the world, a 24-hour, mean ocean passage… all of this to get to a place that none of us knew anything about, and that we can’t tell you about either, except to say, ‘Look what we found.’” –Jody 56 57 CHRISTINE PINSONNEAULT Corran Addison runs the GLENN DUBOCK “Peter Trow is one of my all time favorite third falls of the Seven Sisters on the Rouge River, photo subjects. He is willing to paddle down any river, hike Quebec, Canada. You’ll notice Corran drew quite the over any sand dune and stroke into any size wave, even if crowd of photo hounds, hikers and onlookers, who he the locals are watching him and wondering just what the says had caught wind about “the nutter on a surfboard heck he is doing so far from shore.” –Dubock running the class IV section of the river.” DAN FISKE (Right) Conceived and organized by Holland’s Anne-Marie Reichman last summer, the 11-Cities Tour Race through her home country caught it all: heavy competition in everything from glassy waters to the 50 mph remnants of Atlantic Hurricane Bob... luckily the gale was mostly at racers’ backs. US racer Byron Kurt and Anne-Marie were the winners.

PATRICE GUENOLE Four year old Malo shares a deep love for his father’s passion of standup. “He can go for three-hour sessions each day,” says pops, Gongsup founder Patrice Guenole.

KENNY SMITH (Above) “Ya, Kenny is a good mate of mine and he wanted to shoot something different so we came up with this shot. Sort of business like but still casual, wearing the slippers you know… just thought it looked cool to try something a little out of the ordinary.” –Jamie Mitchell CHANDLER WILLIAMS (Right) Baytowne Marina in Sandestin, Florida, provided an idyllic setting for fierce competition among local lifeguards during the YOLO Board Stand Up Paddle Series; the South Walton Lifeguards Black team winning first place.

DARRELL WONG Mark Raaphorst and Andrea Moller looking for that pot of gold “The development of sup distance board shapes and designs in a matter of a couple years has been significant: short and wide to long and narrow, glass and foam to carbon composite and hollow, fixed fin to active steering... but, I wonder what shapes I’ll be laughing at 10 years from now. I’ll probably be saying I can’t believe we were riding that!” –Mark, Sandwich Island Composites designer, Maui

Ninety percent of photography is just being there “A tourist visiting from New York once told me that he never saw a rainbow until he came to Hawaii... imagine that! Well, I think people here are so use to growing up with them that we just take them for granted. I don’t get excited about rainbows outside of my Maui home... but cruising down the North Shore of Molokai with Mark Raaphorst and his friends, and having one appear down the coast in my line of sight was so 60 cool... Look! Anuenue!” –Darrell 61 TAYLOR ROBERTSON Dan Gavere on the North Fork of the Feather River, California “Capturing the perfect whitewater image requires a combination of camera control and knowledge of river hydraulics. After 15 years of shooting kayakers plunging off waterfalls, I have been able to transfer that to river sup photography.” –Taylor “Just minutes before this shot was taken I spotted a whole family of river otters swimming up from eddy to eddy and occasionally jumping out of the river to play and frolic like they were having a great time. I thought how lucky am I to be out here in such a beautiful place, and lucky enough to see one of my favorite animals. I don’t think I would have spotted them if I had been in a kayak, so I felt fortunate once again to be reaping the benefits of my standing position. Also, being able to paddle in a place that makes your hair stand on end because of it’s beauty is priceless. These 62are the moments I live for.” –Dan 63 TRACY KRAFT The Virgin Islands Her mid-day session winding down, Maui’s BEN THOUARD “Sup surfing Teahupoo is one of the heaviest experiences ever, and if you don’t BOB BANGERTER (Bottom) The Back Side Newness is around every Tomoko Okazake heads in for a late lunch, a little rest… then back for more! pay attention you will pay the ultimate price... keep your eyes wide open” –Chuck Patterson corner when you view it from your own small craft, paddle in hand.

64 “What if standup paddle surfing was the actual way people rode waves for the first time?” –Manu Bouvet

“We started on this quest six years ago with our first trip to Peru, and while stopping in the small fishing village of Huanchaco, 500 miles north of Lima, we were hypnotized by the sight of fishermen riding waves aboard their Caballitos de Totora (reed boats called ‘little horses’ for their IMAGES BY BEN THOUARD. A JOURNEY THROUGH TIME IN PERU instability). They use bamboo as a paddle. This Carine Camboulives and Manu Bouvet, accompanied by their friend, “What we found is an amazing history—the history of our sport and our passion scene had been taking place on the same beach, photographer Ben Thouard, traveled across Peru last spring, exploring for watersports, and proof that surfing was born in northern Peru 2,500 years ago. using the exact same ‘boat’ for nearly 2,500 via their sup and windsurf boards. They traveled between the 12,000- Was standup paddle surfing how people rode waves for the first time? years! Several archaeological sites are there foot high Lake Titicaca (Top right) and the deserted coastline of northern “Apart from the controversial idea it is interesting to establish the connection to prove it!” –Manu Peru and to Chicama (Top left), the longest left point breaks in between the ocean-related activities practiced by ancient cultures in northern Peru the world. and the modern surfing, especially sup surfing. TONY HARRINGTON “I’m sitting on a ski in close to zero temperatures. It’s windy, raining/sleeting/snowing, but how the hell could I complain when Jamie is out there CHARGING, taking 10-foot bombs on the head, dropping into rogue sets—to even have the balls to get himself to Alaska and take on these conditions in the first place! It was an amazing experience to be in such a hostile environment with a few people who didn’t care about comfort, just wanted to do something different and push the envelope. It’s what keeps us all alive; what breaking boundaries is all about, and what a person Jamie is for doing it on an ongoing basis!” –Harro

(Above) Jamie Mitchell, Alaska “This day was too small to tow so I decided to give it a go on the sup. It was a real challenge. Cold as hell, plus all the rubber I had BEN THOUARD (Above, middle) Laird Hamilton, Teahupoo. to wear made it just hard to even grip the paddle. Once I actually got paddling I warmed right up and even got a little hot. But the hardest part was the offshores. JORDAN HETRICK (Above) “Archie Kalepa, the renowned Maui waterman who is never shy to tackle Hawaii’s biggest It was blowing really strong that day and also the swell was super inconsistent, making it hard to be in the right spot. I think I got cleaned up about three or four waves, takes a breather from heavy water to share the paddle love with his wife, Alicia, and their twin girls. As the times before I even caught my first wave. (Top right) I didn’t make this late drop, then proceeded to get an ice cream headache whilst under water. But good famous saying goes, the family that sups together, stays together—the Kalepas are proving it.” –Jordan 68 times for sure.” –Jamie 69 RUSSELL ORD Courtenay Gray, Margaret River, Western Australia “I was pretty surprised how good the light was that morning. We both wanted to get out early to beat the usual dawn patrol crew and to do that we headed out in the darkness. It is a good 500-meter swim to the lineup if the current is not running, so when the sun eventually decided to rise above the ridge and create a few different colors I was hoping Courts may sneak a set off the early pack of surfers and hopefully snap a shot with him in the orange glow; easier said than done in such a very large impact zone.” –Russell “This was a classic morning! Ordy is always chasing unique lighting in his shots, so he had organized me the night before to be in the carpark real early and be all set to paddle out in the dark. He wanted to capture the sunrise coming up and over the ridge, so we only had a small window in which to work. I don’t normally sup at this wave as it already has enough pressure on it from surfers, but the few times I have snagged it uncrowded it has been 70 so much fun.” –Courts 71 (Opposite page) Hawaii’s Ekolu Kalama turning his kayak style, Starboard flatwater machine tight around the buoy. Ekolu won both the sprint and long distance races. Frenchmen Eric Terrien, who lives and trains in Fuerteventura, was right on his heels the whole time. There was no final party, but Ekolu compensated by playing incredible, stylish songs for a small group of the competitors in a music studio—a real highlight! (Below) Surfing has reached the big city, thanks to sup. This is the long distance race where we girls had to compete alongside “Cheering Every Paddle Stroke” the men. Excited Hamburg residents were watching the closest thing many have seen to “real surfers,” cheering to us with every paddle stroke. Fortunately it was glassy on the 10km course. Ekolu won it in 54:51 minutes, and I was able to win The Hamburg, Germany Jever Sup World Cup draws 27,000 spectators and 143 racers the women’s class finishing in 63:04 minutes. Amateurs had the chance to qualify through preliminary rounds under the supervision of Robby Naish who, along with my father Jurgen Hönscheid and a few others, was among the world’s top windsurf Words by Sonja Hönscheid, Women’s Winner competitors in the 1980s. Robby’s name is one everybody in Europe already knows, especially windsurfers and kiteboarders.

HOCK ZWEI Final Results: Men Final Results: Women (Top) That’s me winning the 2,000-meter 1 Ekolu Kalama/US 1 Sonja Hönscheid/Germany sprint race ahead of Australia’s Jasleigh Geary, my sister Janni and UK champion I did a lot of traveling this past year: surfing Jeffreys in South sups, so this mega-gun design was a big change. The sky cleared 2 Eric Terrien/France 2 Jasleigh Geary/Australia 3 John Hibbard/Great Britain 3 Janni Hönscheid/Germany Claire Blackwell. Spectators were infected Africa, an Indo boat trip, cruising the atolls of the Maldives. Then for all three days of the Jever Cup, welcoming competitors with sup fever and got the chance to try it 4 Alexandre Gregoire/France 4 Claire Blacklock/Great Britain I found myself walking around rainy, gray Hamburg, site of the from Hawaii, Australia, Sri Lanka, California, France, England, out right away since Naish had a lot of its 5 Paul Jackson/Australia first Jever Sup World Cup. I got there a few days early to practice the Canary Islands… and windsurf, kite and now sup hero Brian newest boards lined up to test. 6 Ernest Johnson/US and get acclimated a bit to the harbor waters of the River Elbe. Talma brought “the action” from Barbados. 7 Brian Szymanski/US (Above) We all got Jever beer showers at the awards ceremony! Right after Naish Hawaii air freighted me a 14-foot Glide raceboard to It was a big first for the sport: huge European audiences 8 Taka Kamaguchi/Japan try out. this picture was snapped my sister Janni along the Elbe cheering every standup paddle stroke. And last 9 Brian Talma/Barbados (second from right) fell backwards off the In front of our house in Fuerteventura, where I live in the but not least, I checked my 14-foot Glide board onto my flight 10 Rick Jensen/Germany stage and right through the poster behind Canary Islands, I had up to now been paddling only short wave back to Fuerteventura as a normal surfboard—only 25 Euros! Thank you to all the competitors, the Act Agency, Naish and Jever for making her, but luckily she wasn’t hurt. 72 this great event happen. Hope to see you there next year. –Sonja ANNA PERSSON Vicky Sanchez, rivermouth trippin’ in northern Brazil. PATRICIA PEY Andoni Galdeano, Northern Africa “This is a secret spot I’ve been surfing for 25 years. Out of respect I demonstrate to the locals over there it is impossible to give more information about this place. Sorry!” –Andoni

PETE HODGSON/A FRAME “Standup takes on a whole new perspective when you’re looking over a 10-foot Backdoor Pipeline ledge while staring down its 15-foot-high bigger brother looming outside.” –Pete

RICK IOSSI Catching a quick glimpse of singer Gloria Estefan’s house as they pass by, Sean Collins, Tyler Bixby and Jake Portwood BEN THOUARD King of Teahupoo “Raimana Van Bastolaer, the unofficial Mayor of Teahupoo, escapes from underneath The Bomb of The Day—so hollow!—and breathe down the neck of Hobie Series leader Roray Kam during Liquid Surf & Sail’s Sunday Races on the Intercoastal Waterway, Ft. is rewarded by the beast’s baptismal spit. Raimana’s approach is to paddle outside and stand a bit further up the line than most guys, which makes for deeper 74 Lauderdale, Florida. slotting and, for the photographer, an amazing feel that you are part of the whole atmosphere of this heavy reef.” –Ben SWILLY (Below) Aussie Damon Eastaugh, Ziggy Reef “When you are on a Mentawais boat trip spending your whole time searching for waves, sometimes you happen upon another boat crew gorging themselves on a spot that appeals to your crew as well. If the better side of you takes hold and you decide not to spoil ANGELO CORDERO (Right page) Thomas Kosmoll, Tres Palmas “Thomas has a little video camera attached to his cap in this shot; always experimenting. Standup their party you go for the next best thing. This was kind of our thinking when we moved on and hit this open ocean left. It had a bit more wind on it and was a in Puerto Rico started about four years ago with Greg Carson and Thomas Kosmoll on custom 12-foot Ron House boards. They are big wave surfers and also mix of long sections and shifting peaks—but it was all ours for the day.” –Damon pioneered tow surfing here in PR. The next step was paddlesurfing big waves. Sup is the fastest growing sport here; 75 contestants turning out for a local race ALLEN MOZO (Bottom left) Noland Martin, Makaha “This is the last hit you can do after the backwash and before the sand. It’s a cool angle. Nobody in the called the Beach Boy Stand Up Paddle Race, now an annual April event. The SUP PR Federation has been organized by local Jimmy Lewis team rider Ernie Alvarez world gets more backside vert than Noland, he’s a favorite! –Allen with the goal of running a series of contests.” –Angelo TIM DITTY (Below middle) Chuck Patterson, Teahupoo“You risk everything until you are safely in the channel here. With a little patience the rewards JIM RUSSI (Bottom right) Landon McNamara, Rocky Point “In the 80s, Landon’s father, Liam McNamara, was the ruler of the roost here. Like father, like son… are huge.” –Chuck just a different twist.” –Jim

76 77 SKIP BROWN (Below) “Luke Hopkins surfing the top section at Rocky Island while Mike Maithwin waits his turn in the eddy. Luke is riding a Stride prototype plastic board he’s involved in designing for surfing river waves. “Surfing standing river waves is a blast but can be an exhausting experience. I’ve had really nice five minute-plus rides but beyond that it gets hard to maintain focus and your legs get wobbly. Plus, after any wipeout and resulting swim down through the rapids you will truly be wiped out. It actually takes some practice getting back on your board and paddling out of the current before being washed down through the NEXT rapid.” –Skip

GREG REBAJEC (Left page and above) “I have been working on an environmental project up in the Pyrenées Mountains in which I developed a new standup vision... the guy on the board is the European paddleboard champ, Ludovic Dulou.” –Greg 78 79 The Naish Maliko Race Words by Michi Schweiger, photography by Bob Bangerter It started out a few years ago as a laydown paddleboard race and still attracts top prone paddlers from all around the world who Middle panel: The traditional Hawaiian pule reminds us the ocean is a gift, and of nature in general, bringing participants together to also pray for a safe journey; with 200 riders on the start line timing and positioning is critical. are now joined by a growing contingency of standup paddlers… some who come to try and win; most who want to be swept up Bottom panel:The 14-foot, no rudder class is gaining popularity; with so many women crossing over from canoe paddling the competiton has intensified just in the thrill of a mass downwinder. since last year’s Naish Maliko Race; Dave Kalama being signed in by Tehani; unlimited class race winner Scott Trudon; Mark Raaphorst of SIC, who finished 4th in Top panel: Perfect opportunity to wander the beach and check the latest designs; the racing fleet ranges from keikis to ancient mariners, with a variety of classes the unlimited class, is not only a top competitor but also a top shaper of racing standup boards. allowing you to compete on a fair level within your age and board design range. For complete results: naishsurfing.com, or www.mauipaddleboard.com

RON DAHLQUIST

80 81 RYAN SALM (Left page) The Big Island’s Odie Sumi, steady as he goes at the annual Tahoe Nalu race, California. “Its hard to concentrate on a race with scenery like this! Truth is I had my head down the whole time, I never even noticed this cabin until I saw this photo.” –Odie KIRK DeVOLL (Top left) “Gerry Lopez—another killer central Oregon fall day on the upper Deschutes River. Gerry likes to mind his time on Indian Summer days like this while waiting for the next big swell to hit the coast.” –Kirk LORI RAFFERTY (Above left) “Looking for more local paddling options, teenagers Reese Wathne, Ashley Fritzler and Curtis Wathne explore the upper reaches of the Santa Ynez River, behind Santa Barbara (one of the largest rivers on the central coast of California). Adding to their Tom Sawyer/Huck Finn-like adventure, the Santa Ynez has its share of wild trout, snakes, turtles and water birds.” –Lori MOONWALKER (Above right) “Ekolu Kalama is a big man, so being able to fully lean into a drawn out bottom turn at Puerto Escondido is a must. This shot is a perfect example of the versatility and viability of sups in big waves... and being able to scrape a paddle along the face for a tad more artistic flair (and stability) is a blessing in waves of consequence.” –Neil 82 83 ALLEN MOZO (Left page, middle) “This is Waikiki during Duane Desoto’s non-profit, Na Kama Kai’s one year anniversary. That’s Duane’s daughter in the middle.” –Allen Ed Note: Duane’s mission is to empower youth by creating, conducting and supporting ocean-based programs: nakamakai.com SWILLY (Left page, bottom) Billy Watson, Latitude Zero JEFF WALTHALL (Left) “This was just a beautiful day at Makaha with a nice four foot swell coming SWILLY (Below) Billy Watson, East Oz “This wave is a mysto-reef off the east coast; its whereabouts is undisclosed. It’s a pretty fickle break and is about three miles off in. Noland and his brother Brandon were out on shore. It breaks when there are good low pressure systems off to the east but you don’t need a cyclone swell for it to break, you just need a clean swell with good intervals their sup boards and they were both really pushing and light or no wind. There is no inside reef to get cleaned up over but it’s a couple of meters deep, so you can hit the bottom pretty hard and get rolled badly. Taking the the limits by attacking the backwash. It’s always drop is hard. You have to ramp into it early, and once you get to the bottom you have to set a good line—the wave sucks you up the face quickly and you can get pitched fun watching these guys go at it in the surf because quite easily. It’s funny because we’ve been to this spot many times and when all the conditions are aligned but the reef doesn’t break, it makes no sense. It’s weird, but they are very competitive; they really represent the that’s also the beauty about this wave and when Jamie [Mitchell] and I get it like this it’s a pot of gold. We dont really have a name for it and probably want to keep it caliber of what the Westside has to offer in sup. that way at this stage.” –Billy

84 85 A Day at the Beach Identifications as possible include (clockwise from top left) Stuart, Jason, Leroy, A photographic study by Terry Reis Keola, Shena-Marie, Noel, Mizu, Justina, Tommy, Jason, Noah, Rachael, Sam. Everybody comes out to play at White Plains, on Oahu’s west side.

86 RAINBOW SANDALS MOLOKAI to OAHU RACE Presented By Honolua Surf Co. The first 27 miles were basically a three-hour surf session, then the winds shift on the homestretch and you have to paddle into the most Ekolu & Jenny win solo standup classes at biggest ever 13th Annual Words and Principle Images by Pat Huber brutal head wind you could imagine. Having not taken as north of a line as I wanted I could only feel sorry for the others further south. Having only raced in California, I can definitely say the water in the channel is alive. To perform well in Molokai you have to have all the skills: This classic race is very magical, special… something I’m much honored to be a part of. Every part of the way—from the deserted former endurance, surfing ability, knowledge and experience. With 25-35 knot tradewinds, a two-foot easterly windswell and a four-foot south ground Molokai resort/now ghost town of Kalua Koi to the highly populated south shore of Oahu—was a special moment in its own. I didn’t want swell, the Molokai Crossing was the easiest and hardest race. the race to end. For an additional photo gallery and complete results go to: rainbowsandals.com

HANK FOTO (Top) The home stretch along China Walls You have about two miles to go from here. You want to hug this wall to stay out of the wind as best you ERIK AEDER (Middle left) Overall solo winners for paddleboard and sup, Jamie Mitchell and Ekolu Kalama, impressively finishing in 4:58:25 and 5:02:06. can. Skylar and I learned this the hard way. We took the shortest route across the bay and it put us back 20 minutes. (Middle lower left) Jenny Kalmbach (right), from the Big Island, paddled to a women’s solo title in 5:48:31, ahead of Andrea Moller (middle) and Candice (Above) The start of the standup division is the last time you’ll see fellow paddlers for many hours. Everyone quickly scatters across the channel. Appleby. Other impressive showings included Maui teenager Connor Baxter winning the solo under 29 year old class. 88 HANK FOTO (Middle right) Alika Willis and Tony Moniz won the stock team division. 89 (Right page top) Pre-race ceremony and prayer for a safe crossing. (Above left) Spain’s Fernando Lebad and Molokai’s Ekolu Kalama arrive at the start together. (Above right) Unlimited class team racers Victor Lopez and Buzzy Kerbox talk weather conditions. I’ve known Victor since I was a baby; saw him that morning for the first time in 14 years! BEN THOUARD As photographers we freeze the feeling: Guillaume Bourligeux, Teahupoo “He is one of the most confident guys here. Guillaume knows the spot like his pocket. That’s how he scores bombs like this! The water is sucking off the reef pretty violently—not easy to get in. Through the final bowl Guillaume’s face is suddenly calm, as if he is looking into the mirror for his morning shave. 90 Such style.” –Ben 91 PIETER PLOOY (Above) Shakira Westdorp and Paul Jackson, Currumbin Alley, Gold Coast, Australia “This was a typical type of southeast swell, late afternoon in March, our late summer, with a slight offshore wind; Paul doing what he does well, carving off the top of the lip on his 9’3” whilst catching up to Shakira, one of the top local female sup riders and a past prone paddling champ at the Molokai Crossing. No one came out of the water ‘til it was dark.” –Pieter TOR JOHNSON (Right page, top) A spinner dolphin’s surprise visit in the South Seas. RICHARD HALLMAN (Right page middle and bottom) Tatiana Howard and her Butterfuly Effect friends spread the stoke of women of the wind and waves, Hood River; MAXIME HOUYVET Carine Camboulives, Mexico glide time; ERIC AEDER Ashley Baxter at home on Maui; HOUYVET Carine through the green of Thousand Peaks, Maui.

92 93 PATRICE DEVERT (Above left and far right) Have a colorful day: Patrice Chanzy, Tahiti This smooth, stylish Tahitian sup surfer graced our “Summer 2009” cover SWILLY (Above middle) Aussie Courtenay Gray, The Mentawais. shot by Devert. For some strange reason in that issue we mistakenly described Patrice’s occupation as “milkman,” which he took goodheartedly, replying, “I’m actually not a milkman, more a waterman… but I do drink milk and love milkshakes!” Chanzy is a lifeguard and teaches swimming to the kids in Tahiti. On his days off he’s in the ocean surfing, doing standup, bodysurfing or spearfishing. He is a member of both the Tahitian water patrol and is captain of the Taapuna water patrol. He is involved with running water safety for surf contests. Patrice’s trademark sign-off line to his emails is “Have a colorful day.” GLENN DUBOCK (Below) “Peter Trow about to cross the tracks and jump onto the Central Cal Coast Express as it speeds through a cove off the beaten path known to locals as Residents’ Reef.” –Dubock

94 95 “Surfing in Tahiti is much more than just surfing the wave at Teahupoo. Tahiti is full of reef-pass waves like this one—so many waves to surf! I’ve caught this wave before. It needs the right swell direction, and the wind needs to cooperate. This day, it came together.” –Laird

BEN THOUARD Laird Hamilton: A Tahiti almost nobody rides“It was too west to sup Teahupoo this day so we went checking another spot that almost nobody 96 rides. Some sketchy, gnarly waves were breaking. After kicking out of one of the several crazy ones this monster came through and was starting to close out on 97 Laird. It is one thing to observe the masters carve across these waves, but a whole new level of respect emerges when you see how they handle the rest of the sup wave challenges. Laird paddled like a sprint racer towards the closing channel… and made it!” –Ben S Reflections on 4949 YEARSYEARS OFOF SHAPINGSHAPING As applied to standup board designs By Steve Boehne, Infinity Surfboards love shaping surfboards… I love creating a functional sculpture from a shapeless block of foam. Surfboard making (shaping, laminating, sanding, glossing, and polishing) is a noble professionI to me, just like any labor trade. And every surfboard tradesman that I know is an accomplished surfer. So after shaping surfboards for nearly a half- century, and having hand-shaped roughly 1,800 standup boards, Standup Journal asked me to 98BEN THOUARD (Above) Modern technology helps the hand crafter keep up share my “reflections as a surfboard shaper” 99 with demand from guys like Infinity team rider Patrice Chanzy at Chopes, but with you… (Right) Boehne prefers the feel of a pencil in the hand whenever possible. GLENN DUBOCK Making music… with a Skil planer I like to think of shaping surf and standup boards in much the same way as making music. Shaping by hand feels the same as playing a familiar song on a warm, mellow, old Martin guitar… I get a bit of pleasure knowing the guitar couldn’t have made music without me. I feel kind of like an old musician who has mastered his instrument, but can’t quite explain exactly what he does... When you listen you can hear the past, RON BRAZILE Steve and Barrie winning their third world tandem title, Malibu, 1995“Steve and Barrie you can hear the depth, and you hear the Boehne are the kind of people you meet in Baja that just hand you a beer and say ‘sit a while.’ Very humble. notes bend and the bass line twist. I can They are grandmasters of tandem surfing; in fact Steve is building a tandem sup board.” –Glenn Dubock only tell you that after running a Skil planer over foam for forty-nine years, the same things are going on with me as with that old musician. I’ve got thick calluses on my hands that fit around the contour of the depth adjuster on my old Skil, just like a guitar player has on his fingertips. As he stretches his strings and bends his notes, adds vibrato, and “grows” a song each time he plays it, I constantly apply combinations of pressures and twists to that old Skil planer to make the blades I PREFER KIALOA SUP PADDLES because they are reach down into the foam. I’ve learned how to cut at precise light, strong and have several designs which angles and take microscopic “bands” off all work well. But more than that, I like their the rails to produce a dozen different rail contours for a dozen different styles style. KIALOA isn’t some big corporate entity, of surfboards. I am not unique; any it is Dave and Meg Chun and their small, hard- professional shaper with at least twenty years experience and ten thousand boards working staff. All real people who stand behind under his belt has mastered his tools. their paddles and believe in what they make. Shaping Epiphanies It shows in their ﬁnely crafted products and I I look back to how I shaped ten years ago, after only thirty-nine years of can feel the soul every time I dip my KIALOA experience, and I think, “You fool, you paddle in the water. thought you were so hot.” Now I know I can learn even more… I think that professional shapers experience what I have observed as ten- year epiphanies… With less than ten years – Gerry Lopez experience, they are like teenagers—they think they know everything, but they haven’t a clue about what they don’t know. After another ten years, they look back at how much they have learned and they are now convinced that they are the best shapers in the world. One more TECHNOLOGY & TRADITION, GLENN DUBOCK Sup Templates “This EPS blank has lines drawn decade—and now with the added needs of TOGETHER ON THE WATER. showing the template progression from straighter to curvier. Notice the standup paddler in mind—and they 541-382-5355 · www.kialoa.com that the EPS boards really do come out of a block of foam.” 100 101 finally see that shaping is a never-ending process of growth The learning curve has been quick. In just four years, we in understanding and technique. have progressed from narrow 25” wide and 12’ long boards Finding the right shaper for you that were stiff and tippy to much shorter high-performance boards that—even though they have a great deal of volume There really isn’t a best shaper or best model… —can maneuver as well as a modern long board. It’s more a process of discovering which style of shaping This quick progress has been achieved only because matches the feeling that you like your board to have while many very talented surfer-shapers rode their standup board you are paddlesurfing. creations, felt where improvements were needed, and For me, I like a board to feel fast. On a wave it has to returned to the shaping room to make the changes. I would be able to back door into a section and blast through with say that nearly monthly, through speed. It also has to have a sweet spot surfing and paddling, we become aware where I can stand and it will follow my “I tended to shape of adjustments that can be made to a lead and turn almost faster than I thicker standup boards rocker, outline, or rail contour that can think. will make next month’s boards just a You may have learned that you than necessary” little better than last month’s boards. prefer a particular shaper’s boards to –Boehne on early days with sup From years of shaping large others, just as you prefer a certain style and his present day caution tandem boards, it was an easy of music. This is because each shaper about making boards too tippy transition for me to make sup shapes… has a certain feel that he likes his board But for a year I tended to shape to have as it travels through the water. Over the years, he thicker standup boards than necessary. I still don’t like to will grow in his understanding of what to do in his shaping stand on a sinky, tippy board. My boards tend to be quick, to deliver that feel time after time. easy paddlers. One way that I do this is to—unlike a typical With standup boards: surfboard—proportion more of the thickness of the board First revolution, now evolution behind center. When standup paddling came along, the early sup shapers Specifically, I thin out the nose to reduce swing weight COURTESY INFINITY Steve’s Son, Dan Boehne, Tahiti “Dan is riding one of the early Competitor models—since then I have pulled in the noses and thinned didn’t have the experience riding these boards to know just and add extra volume in the back quarter. This also helps out the high performance boards.” –Steve what was needed. match the place where you stand while paddling to the place

102 103 you stand after you catch the wave so that you don’t have to jump back as you drop in. In addition, the tail doesn’t sink out from under you when you do your “wheelie” turn to spin and catch a wave. “Fooling” the water: a sup shape with good, standable flotation but less overall rocker than the same length longboard At first, I was using normal surfboard rocker (the board’s bottom curve) on my standup shapes. These boards were loose and turny, but as I got better at sup surfing and started riding larger, faster waves I found that the additional width and volume of the big boards felt slow compared to a surfboard. If you come from a surfing background, you’ll know how much faster a short board surfboard is compared to a long board. The same thing applies to a wider, thicker sup as compared to a long VINCENT DEVERT Chanzy skirts a section by moving forward to the “trim” spot on his Boehne-designed board. Over time, standup board shapers 8’8” wing, swallow tail. have decreased the overall rocker on our shapes in order to increase the speed. The idea is to “fool the water” into reacting to your board as though it is shorter, thinner and narrower. I do this by shaping the center part of the board with a much flatter speed area. When you stand forward on this “speed spot” to trim across a steep wave section, the board accelerates as if it were 8=7<B63G=:=B@703 a regular board. When you step back onto G=C=<:G:7D3=<13 the tail, the turning zone, the water feels the rocker of a shorter, turny board. This combination produces an sup shape with good, standable flotation but quite a bit less overall rocker than the same length longboard. The other factor that makes shaping sups different than surfboards is the power that a paddle adds to your turn… Generally, there is a trade off between speed and “loose turnability”—you either get one or the other. Using a paddle to assist your turn doubles the quickness of the turn. That means that an sup can

be shaped quite a bit more on the side "¸ ¸ ¸ ¶ '¸$¶ of speed versus the side of slower, but easier to turn. These hybrid speed rockers in conjunction with paddle assisted turns produce an explosive, fun, high performance sup board. &#$ #%$g]Z]P]O`R Shapers have slowly incorporated Q][ curvier outlines to give the high 104 performance standup shapes an almost 105 short board look. This is because we a board with a tail wider than that On the one hand, it’s likely that—in a QUICKDRAW™ have discovered that the average sup requires me to move my foot from generation—the hand-shaping surfboard Fully adjustable carbon shafted SUP with a telescop- surfer needs from 28” to 30” width in center over onto the rail in order to do skills that I’ve spent my career honing may ing Cam-Lock ferrule system allowing for an adjustment the center to avoid struggling constantly a powerful turn. Then I have to move it be lost forever. range of 63” to 90”. One size ﬁts all! Colorful Aloha graphics on the shaft serve as memorable adjustment to maintain his balance. back across to the other rail for the cut This is because today you don’t even markers. The QuickDraw is insanely light and available The problem is that if you use a back. This pretty much screws up the have to know how to shape to copy a with three blade options; a new Radial™ touring blade typical longboard surf template, you pace of your surfing. True, a wider tail hand shape onto a computer. These days comes standard, the Zephyr™ (cedar/graphite) and the Kai™ (bamboo/ash), making this the most versatile SUP would end up with a 21” wide tail—that does catch waves easier, but I love a nice computer software lets you create the shape platform for surf, touring and adventure traveling. is just too wide. The curvier outline powerful 16 ½” tail on my sup board. on a screen, press a button and presto: ten allows a narrower tail. Looking to the future… minutes later, your blank is shaped. Personally, I don’t like a tail more I have mixed emotions about the Where is the joy and artistry? Does the designer even surf? I can assure you, than 17” wide on my sup. I find that future of shaping… ™ ™ many don’t! KAI ZEPHYR CAM-LOCK System On the other hand, when I think about it, how hard can one person work? What do you do when more guys want your shapes than you can possibly shape by hand? “Using a paddle doubles the quickness of the turns” –Boehne on why sup design should follow shortboard shapes more than the slower longboard outlines

For years, I rebelled against shaping machines. The standup paddling explosion has finally convinced me that I need help. I recently bought an AKU 3000 shaping machine. It has has been a monumental physical task for me to shape 1,800 sup boards over the past four years. This year, I have meticulously copied every detail of many of my shapes onto the computer. Again, I look at it much like a musician might look at his favorite piece… He might not be able to play live at every venue, but he can make a recording of his best work so that more people can enjoy his creation. The computer also allows me the time to return to some conventional surfboard shaping and to do many special, custom Sebastian's standup boards that keep the creative juices On The Beach flowing. I can still incorporate the same HOTEL RESTAURANT DELUXE VILLAS water-to-shaping rack evolutionary process LITTLE APPLE BAY, TORTOLA, BVI because our AKU 3000 is just down the hall from my shaping racks. When I want a small change in the design, I just call up the shape on the screen and redraw the lines. The machine does offer one more advantage: the shape remains constant until I make a slight change. I don’t have Surf Apple Bay on Tortola the BVI's best surf spot-paddle out in front of your room. Close to Bomba's Shack. to remember a myriad of contours while 106 Call 284.495.4212 sebastiansbvi.com [email protected] simultaneously changing a few of them. I 107 Itʼs a well-known fact that most people dream in black and white, we just happen to

775.358.7572 | WWW.LPC-SUP.COM

GLENN DUBOCK Steve measures tail rocker: “the most overlooked aspect of standup board performance.” can always start at baseline and then bend a curve here and there on the screen before cutting the new version. When developing a new outline, I still prefer to draw pencil lines on foam to see the flow full size rather than creating a shape on a computer screen. After I have it just right, I measure by centimeters the exact same curve into the computer. After a shape is proven on the water, I SUBSCRIPTIONS can duplicate it exactly time after time or $35 one year (Within the US); $59 one modify the size at the time of cutting for year surface mail (Foreign), or $79 an individual surfer. airmail in US Funds only. Single copy I find that when I sand a blank that price is $12.95. I have designed but that was cut on the OurOur newnew computer, I don’t mind because I know the SUBSCRIPTION ORDERS: roots of its beginning and I feel like a part StandupJournal.com/subscribe tt--shirtsshirts of this board’s origins. At the end of a day SHOP DISTRIBUTION: I can finish eight boards cut by the machine areare here!here! Send shop address and desired copies instead of four boards shaped completely by per quarter to: hand. This sure helps when the order sheets tù461-FTTPOT [email protected], are piling up and customers are calling, or call (603) 209-4343 wanting their new boards. t(SPVQ3BUFT At the end of a long hard day I can look PHOTOGRAPHY, STORIES: at the rack of new boards that I helped t'JUOFTT5SBJOJOH Please send low rez images and back create and feel proud... t)FBMUI$POTVMUJOH stories, story ideas to: You see the customer’s name on the Order yours at [email protected] order sheet and you know he’s gonna love with Simon Russell front his new board! After all these years, that’s StandupJournal.com StandupJournal.com still what it comes down to for me… Call 808.573.0745 | TotalHealthMaui.com 108 –Steve Boehne, October 2009 S 109 MAN DOWN! by Steve West

hat’s the worst that could happen? driveway to slow down. Lance was rumored to be in line for his older Bleeding, I trudged all the way back up to I’ve always asked myself this question over the years. brother’s chopper. We think he made that up. His brother was in my house, where my mom, with dinner getting Is there anything worse than being pinned to the ocean’s juvie and we never did see a motorcycle, much less a chopper, in the cold on the table, did what she could to wash floor? How did I get here? Last thing I remember, I was Hendrickson’s garage. the dirt and Rambler grease off my scraped ridingW a head high wave headed for the bowl on my new standup board. By the end of that summer, I had my routine down. Drag Fireball and bloody belly. Out came the blue bottle Now I am six feet underwater, plastered on the bottom of the rock reef. 88 past the Hindbuck’s two-story house where the street flattened of iodine, which she applied to my stinging My right leg is awkwardly pulled upward by my leash which is still out some. Aimed downhill, I’d give the cart a nudge to start rolling. skin, painting it bright orange with her little attached to that new board. My paddle is hitting me repeatedly between Terminal velocity was achieved somewhere near JoEllen Summer’s glass wand. Over dinner she and my dad tried the legs. Not good. Weird things happen fast on a sup. house, the place with the perfect roses that my mother loved. Take an to remember when I got my last tetanus shot, The details of a good wipe-out stick around longer than the Band- arcing bank up Lance Hendrickson’s driveway, then throw it into a while my brother imitated how my face would aids that follow them. One summer, my Dad added a seat to a Flexi brodie for a clean stop in my own dust cloud. What is the worst that look with lock jaw. Flyer. This sit-on-top go-cart he made for my older brother and me could happen? I remembered that that shot was recent to share. Kevin had just finished third grade. In a very rare moment The late summer day started out like most of the others. Kevin enough. On the last day of school I had started Starting at of brotherly love, he let me name it. My dad painted Fireball 88 right and I trading turns on Fireball 88, envious kids standing around a celebratory dirt clod fight. John Gleason used $ down the middle of it, in red, which looked really bitchin’ when the contemplating what they might have left to offer us in exchange for a a rock instead of the agreed upon dirt clod and 900 cart was in motion. Because we lived at the top of a steep hill, the cart ride. Mom was calling us in for dinner, and this last ride had to be quick. beaned me pretty good above my eye. Eight was in motion all summer. Needless to say, our pimped-out go-cart was I was rolling along fine, picking up speed, when Lance’s house went by stitches and one tetanus shot later, my mother Custom SUP, not cookie cutter the envy of every kid in the berg. Fireball 88 gave us instant street cred, in a blur. Missing my exit, I kept flying down the hill. By the time I got reminded me how lucky I was to still have two Tomahawk is now offering Custom SUP Boards at Retail Pricing! as much as two 8 and 9 year old suburban kids could have back in the to the McCambridge’s duplex, the street got really steep. Now officially eyes shedding those tears. Of course, it was Think of it, custom fit to your weight, style and location. mid-sixties. out of control, I pulled back on the stick that was supposed to act like a time again for the story of my first grade friend All this starting at just $900. Fill out the online form and Uphill lived Billy Hindbuck, a kid who always smelled like leftover brake. As it broke off in my hand, I went into a high speed death spin. Clifton Spear and how he came to have a glass our shaper will call you today. www.tomahawksurf.com spaghetti and could fart on command. His only other claim to fame I lay back just in time to wedge myself, still on Fireball 88, under a eye. One should never throw rocks, run with Made in California was that he had been to the Grand Canyon. When I told Billy that I did parked white Rambler. scissors, shoot arrows into the sky or change a not believe him, he showed me proof. A dead rattlesnake skin which Luckily I was skinny enough to fit underneath the car. I didn’t hit flat bicycle tire with a screwdriver. Mom says. he let me hold for a second, before it went right back into the shoebox anything with my head, but my belly skin bore the brunt of the impact. Forty five years later Fireball 88 is gone, but he pulled it from. Next to sea monkeys, moon rocks and X-ray vision I was bleeding from navel to nipple. As I squeezed myself out from I do have a shiny new sup board. When I arrived glasses, that snakeskin was really something. I wanted it bad, real bad. under Cory Vail’s mom’s Rambler wagon, my all white Disneyland at the beach today the waves were overhead and Before the end of summer that snakeskin was mine, traded for rides on t-shirt turned a bright red. Hearing the crash, Cory opened his front doubling up with a nasty close-out every now Fireball 88. Yeah, the rides were that good. Even Lance Hendrickson, door, pointed at me and laughed like it was the funniest thing that he and then. Should I have gone home and waited a guy so much older than us that he had a fuzzy mustache and wore ever saw. He didn’t try to help his fallen comrade. Still bothers me for the tide to fill in? Hard to say, but hey, motorcycle boots, was envious as we shot up his perfectly banked to this day. what’s the worst that could happen? –s.west S HANK FOTO With Garrett McNamara wipeouts are always an adventure. Team Rider :Griﬃn Currie Team Team Rider :Griﬃn Currie Team

Now officially out of control, I pulled back on the stick... it broke off Easy Rider in my hand Edmonton, Alberta, Canada 110 780-413-4554 www. eEasyRider.com 111 PEOPLE WHO MAKE THE JOURNAL

Erik Aeder loves surfing couple who are now focused on Dana Edmunds the sup action there: depicting the sports and lifestyles military brat. He was the oldest of 4 shooting the sup. But they also like riding what Fred “started shooting hankfotossurfshots.com … surrounding the ocean. His passion for brothers, including the late famed surf Molokai to calls “big wooden boards that are like waves from the Dan Fiske is a the sea is visible through the photos photog Jon Mozo. Since finishing school Oahu crossing ancient finless toothpicks (12- to 16-feet Manhattan top chef and a he takes… he has logged 21 consecutive North where “jumping long). As we went to press the couple Beach pier when “hobby Buzzy Kerbox has Shore seasons as a local surfer. He works into the open was prepping for a Japanese sup trip… I was about 12 photographer” been “spending as a still photographer and union motion ocean to shoot Skip Brown is a years old. Those working double lots of time on picture technician in Hawaii and abroad: the paddlers longtime first experiences time this last Maui with my mozophoto.com… racing by is like jumping off the edge of freelance led to an year, with his family; also surfing, Jeoffrey Nathan the world and falling into a floating blue photographer incredible career booming sup’in waves and and wife eternity.” See for yourself! His new website living near the that keeps me Privatemauichchef.com business! Flip side in races. I have Catherine own is up at erikaeder.com… Brian Bielmann Potomac in stoked every is that “I can afford to travel more, and been shooting Coastal Urge was born on Maryland. His day.” He lived on buy better equipment to capture what photos every Surf Shop in the US East three kids are Maui for most of the 70s and was I see.”… chance I get.” Buzzy also does keynote Wilmington, NC. Coast; bailed “slowing me fortunate to shoot Honolua, Maalaea Dan Gavere and motivational speaking; check his They put on to Hawaii down a bit these and “even some secret spots (and kept splits his time latest shots: kerbox.com… three races a after high days but I still find time to be halfway them secret)” as a regular contributor to between the Joe McBride has year, organize a non-profit “SUP school, 1975, decent at kiteboarding, hanggliding and surf mags; traveling to Bali with Gerry North Shore, been with us from Cleanup,” and a bi-weekly sup race club and has whitewater sup.” More about our bud, Lopez when Kuta was mostly dirt roads the Columbia the start, firing off to keep the boards out of the garage since lived Skip, at skipbrown.com… and Uluwatu was still very much off of the Gorge and his gems of his fellow and on the water: coastalurge.com… on the North Shore with “three kids, a wife Angelo beaten path. Dana enjoys a successful Werner So. Cal ripper Dave Ogle was and five chickens. We like going to Cordero is a career in commercial photography but Paddles van buds Chuck raised in Newport church on Sundays (it helps when you proud Cuban when the surf is firing, “I still get that pang on the road Patterson and Beach, CA. His have a great pastor who surfs). I really who arrived in inside that requires me to grab my selling the Saeman brothers, while globe trotting waterman dad got love my life—really!” More at Miami in 1991 camera and head to the beach.” More paddles to to sustain his thriving commercial him started early brianbielmann.com… Jean-Valère after a five-day at: danafoto.com… the people. photography business. Along the way on: “I had my first Bordenave is a innertube Tom English is Dan is known he’s finding time to do his own sup’ing boat when I was traveling odyssey. He a family man, in the (and wiping out! Check the stitches from just six years old waterman/story quickly sup surfhound whitewater a sup board to the face last Baja trip); and I’ve teller from established and financial kayaking circles as the first truly more of Joe’s images at: enthusiastically Corsica. He was himself as a advisor; does professional kayaking athlete, but has joemcbride.com… surfed, fished, the first to charismatic creative now turned his passion from sit-down to Tim McKenna dove and loved paddlesurf fashion videography standup paddling, averaging nearly 100 has been the ocean since G-Land in 2008 photographer. and miles a week either surfing or sup shooting a lot then.” Dave has a master’s in and has a saga Surfing caught his eye during a Hawaiian photography adventure paddling… of surfing, educational psychology, a bachelor’s in in the works for Tropic photo shoot in Hawaii. He’s been and is an all Jordan Hetrick super yachts developmental psychology and is fluent us… pointing his lens at the waves ever since around nice sees the ocean and surf wear in Spanish. Through his photography he Manu from his Rincon, Puerto Rico home: guy who only missed a few days on the from all angles. catalogues enjoys “empowering people who may Bouvet & angelocordero.com… water after taking a camera housing to As a water around his not have the opportunity to witness, Carine Sean Davey his head at Malibu last summer: photographer home in experience, and preserve the many Camoulives is originally alohawealth.com… and writer, road French Polynesia. He has just launched an wonders of Mother Nature… were surfing from Margareta tripping with wife all new portfolio site: Rhett Patterson in Mexico Tasmania; Engstrom and baby in-tow, timmckennaphotography.com … lives in during the now a continues her Jordan loves Jon ‘Shaggy’ Hollywood ‘08 swine flu 10-year journey doing riding waves and photographing them. McLaughlin grew where he’s a outbreak, North Shore marketing for Whether it’s in the tropics of Maui or the up in New full-on surfer, which Manu resident on Starboard. Encinitas, CA coastline where he grew Hampshire with a skateboarder, felt got to “a stage of out of control top of the She has been up, his craving for moving walls of water great passion for photographer brainwash! We couldn’t help but think of surf scene. busy the last remains a constant: hetrickphoto.com… the outdoors and a and actor. He the thousands of people who die each Sean’s few months Brandon Hicks is no sense of adventure draws upon his surfing lifestyle in creating day from malaria or aids and it is not in approach organizing slacker when it “that’s led to a images that allow the viewer to identify the news.”… Jock Bradley is a to shooting photo shoots comes to surfing and strong personal with his passion, capturing the dreams by commercial has always been “slightly different than in Peru, sup’ing photography. connection to the way of shooting spectacular days at and editorial most.” Check: seandavey.com… Venice, Paris, The North Shore of Earth.” After receiving his BA in outdoor famous US and Mexican surf spots: photographer Vincent Devert and London. Oahu is the place he education from Northland College (in WI) pacificsedge. based in popped onto the Putting a lot calls home and Shaggy launched into several years of blogspot.com… Hood River, scene, catching our of emphasis on the flatwater scene as that’s where he’s raft and dog-sled guiding, teaching Rob “Piros” Pirie is Oregon. Jock eyes immediately. well as the waves, she is trying to show known for putting in whitewater kayaking and five years as an based down under; has over 20 We ran some of his that sup is for everyone, anywhere in the 8-12 hours a day at instructor for the National Outdoor current project is years of brilliant, sharp, ‘in world… Hank Foto the beach, shooting Leadership School. Along the way he filming a sup movie experience as your face’ water is one of the surf to capture that magic moment in the picked up a camera and strives to in the Pacific islands. a photographer and for the past 10 years shots the very next industry’s leading water: photobrando.com… capture the best images of the moment When not behind the has focused mainly issue. But Devert did imagemakers, and Josh Jedry … Allen Mozo is lens Rob’s on his sup on adventure not stop at that, he one of the few specializes in the son of a navy board charging watersports: kept developing whose work is seen anything man, grew up at anything Mother jockbradley.com… and working with some of the hottest in galleries. Based saltwater. He’s Pearl Harbor and Nature can throw at Fred & Aurelie talent on the Tahitian waters to produce on the North Shore spent recent later traveled him: vonpiros.com… Branger are a top our Summer ’09 cover. He works hard at since the late 80s, years on the New around the world 112 French tandem perfecting his art: vincentdevert.com… Hank is on top of Jersey shore surfing as a 113 Wes Pracht got and outdoor sports for more than 15 his photographic years. Paul fell in love with sup during a start via mountain trip to California: villecourt.com biking, where he Greg Von Doersten fell in love with landed our cover steep inclines. shot this issue (not an He now enjoys easy pick; we had snowboarding 25 finalist images in and climbing, but our cover folder). when he’s home Although based in in Orange County the Tetons of Wyoming, Greg continues he visits the beach to shoot friends to use his skills as a class 5 river guide and surfing: mtbphoto.com… kayaker to pursue standup and surfing. Terry Reis of He enjoys exploring remote areas and Kahiwa Kiwi Media cultures of the world: Productions has gregvondoersten.com... combined his Jeff Walthall five short years of runs Mana photo and video Photo on Oahu. media work with He’s been a over 30 years professional surf of information photographer technology for just over experience to ten years now: produce the #1 ranked website by the manaphoto.deviantart.com… top 10 internet search engines; keyword Sophie Wattrelot search: “Surf Photography Hawaii” or learned early on “HD Surf Video.” More at: that “after my surfshooterhawaii.com… student life in Paris Jim Russi has I could not work traveled the ‘ashore,’ locked in world serving an office. Instead as senior staff I would spend photographer my life on the Sup World Tour for all major US water, living on a boat, exploring the surf mags and world and combining my passion for has produced watersports.” Here love of the sea exudes images for Quiksilver’s Roxy ad campaign at sauvageocean.com… Leon Werdinger FULL-PAGE for a decade. He lives on the North is a freelance Shore with his wife and their two children: photographer and jimrussi.com… wilderness guide Kenny Smith is a who’s images have COMING photographer based appeared in Sierra, out of Currumbin, Backpacker, Canoe Australia. Loves life, & Kayak, National the ocean, family Geographic and friends: Adventurer and kennysmith many other photography.com… magazines, books and catalogs. As Matt Solomon is a a long time river runner “it was quite a novelty to see someone running a Florida transplant river standing up.” Check his work at to Colorado. Since ottertrack.com… discovering sup Steve West is in 2006 Matt “has our “Lifestyle all but hung up his Columnist.” kayaks, spending His stories most of his water are always time sup paddling based on the on the Rockies truth unless and around the he flat out US.” Matt also works as a paramedic in makes them up. The Santa Cruz, CA local Eagle, CO, and runs has been into “stand-up” since he was AlpineArms.com… eleven months old. Writing since age five, Paul Villecourt his hard hitting yet insightful report on is a top French Mission San Juan Capistrano earned him photojournalist a lick ‘em and stick ‘em gold star in the who’s been fourth grade. Steve’s full-rail bottom turn 114 shooting paddling and quick wit keep him upright. S 115 PUBLISHER’S NOTE

CLAY VALVERDE Cover photo finalist: Leleo Kinimaka stretching and floating across Publics, Waikiki “To shoot Publics you have to put yourself in a small channel between breaking waves, surfers and a shallow inside reef with coral heads popping up everywhere—a nightmare if the cleanup set comes and you are dragged inside. But this day it looked fun and not too crowded for an early session, so we gave it a go. Leleo’s great to shoot with because he’s such a talented and versatile surfer, he’s always got some big move up his sleeve.” –Clay V.

work so hard to show the unending stoke that standup paddling exudes around this watery planet we float on. Words cannot adequately describe it all… photos come darn close. We at Standup Journal are guided by the drive to capture A note from your non-associate publisher and display a world you can relate to… and maybe daydream ver since we started this publishing adventure nearly about. We hope you see something that inspires you in this three years ago, Clay has been desperately trying to issue’s special pages—something that makes you want to label me “associate publisher” along with our other grab your gear and hit the water. In simple words, this is your actual associate publisher Steve Sjuggerud. magazine. Remember that. We do! E Don’t get me wrong, I have nothing against the written word. Glenn Dubock I too race straight to Gerry Lopez’ latest saga, or the page with Photo Consultant Steve West’s hilarious columns that describe what most of us are (aka “associate publisher”) going through as we take one for the team in our rookie season Early in life we live on dreams of things to come. Later in life we of sup’in. are sustained by memories… and by dreams. In both cases But sprinkled in between all those words of wisdom are the our richest impressions are based mostly on the images we polished gems we call photographs. Some need labels, others bring along with us. Standup Journal dedicates this issue to the shine without any adornment. Some will need the gentle crafting photographers who made these pages possible… and to those of Kerry Struble, our superb graphic designer. who are about to send the next winners our way. This issue’s 185 final images were taken by 73 photographers Thank you, Each image that made it this issue was whittled down from Clay Feeter, Publisher 5,800 shots we started with in our “quarter finalists” folder. The hard part is leaving so many diamonds in the dust when we PS: Special thanks goes to our buddy, Massachusetts paddler Bob Babcock, who goes by the handle “Stoneaxe” on the lively inevitably run out of pages with which to display the art. StandupZone.com forum. Bob’s the one who gave us the idea to That’s where I come in, where I lay claim to one issue a year: run “Pictures worth reading” on our cover. See ya on the water, 116 The Photo Annual. This edition is dedicated to the people that or on the Zone, Axe! 117 n in t st u gu g Au A r r te t Pe P : : Ph P

Conceived in Italy, developed Worldwide.

Mickey Eskimo riding Venice’s Canal Grande.

SUP EPX Line

12’0’’

11’0’’

10’6’’

10’0’’

8’5’’

SUP Diamond Line

11’2’’

10’6’’

10’2’’

9’6’’

9’2’’

A & O Sports [email protected] • 1(541)354-2872 www.robertoriccidesigns.com 120