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004_9781118027479-ch01.indd4_9781118027479-ch01.indd 1 77/11/11/11/11 112:462:46 PMPM 1 an Francisco’s reputation as a rollicking city where almost anything goes dates back to the boom-or-

bust days of the gold rush. It’s always been this way: This city is so beautiful, exciting, diverse, and cosmopolitan that you can always fi nd something

Introduction Introduction S new to see and do no matter if it’s your fi rst or fi ftieth visit. Oh, and

bring a warm jacket: Bob Hope once remarked that is the city of four seasons—every day.

Things to Do Consistently ranked as America’s Favorite City, San Francisco never ceases to entertain. Enjoy the cool blast of salty air as you stroll across the Golden Gate. Stuff yourself with dim sum in Chinatown. Browse the second- hand shops along Haight Street. Recite poetry in a North Beach coffeehouse. Stroll Ocean Beach, skate through , ride the cable cars to Fisherman’s Wharf, tour a Victorian mansion, explore , go to a Giants ball game—the list is endless. Shopping Oh baby, start polishing that credit card. Some of our favorites

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO OF SAN THE BEST include strolling the hip boutiques in Hayes Valley, gourmet delicacies at the Ferry Building Marketplace, the wow factor of Union Square and West- fi eld San Francisco Centre, real vinyl at Amoeba Records on Haight Street, and the weird-to-wonderful shopping bazaar that is Chinatown. Nightlife & Entertainment It’s true: San Francisco sells more theater tickets per capita than any major city in America. We love to watch our recycled Broadway musicals at the A.C.T. and transgender tragedies at Theatre Rhinoceros. The San Francisco Symphony, Opera, and Ballet are three great reasons to dress up.

LEFT: A world-class bike ride. RIGHT: The Powell-Hyde cable car.

PREVIOUS PAGE: A queen on her throne/fl oat at the Gay Pride parade.

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Alcatraz Island. The Best Only-in-San Francisco Experiences Sunday’s are a Drag (show) at Harry Denton's Starlight Room, while anything goes down at the Endup. Maceo Parker’s playing at Yoshi’s, Stanton Moore is at the Boom Boom Room, and Tainted Love is sold out at Bimbo's 365 Club. Let’s end the night with a Golden Gate Martini at Top of the Mark. Restaurants & Dining With more than 3,500 restaurants in San Francisco, you could eat at a different restaurant every night for 10 years and still not visit them all. Try Afghan, Burmese, Cambodian, Cajun, Moroccan, Persian, Ethiopian—or better yet, follow the street food craze at roaminghunger.com/ sf in search of Sam’s Chowdermobile, Chairman Bao, and Waffl e Mania food trucks. THE best ONLY-IN-SAN FRANCISCO EXPERIENCES W A Powell–Hyde Cable Car Ride: Skip the less-scenic California line and take the Powell–Hyde cable car down to Fisherman’s Wharf—the ride is worth the wait. When you reach the top of Nob Hill, grab the rail with one hand and hold your camera with the other, because you’re about to see a view of the bay that’ll make you all weepy. See p. 175. W An Adventure at Alcatraz: Even if you loathe tourist attractions, you’ll dig Alcatraz. Just looking at the Rock from across the bay is enough to give you the heebie-jeebies—and the park rangers have put together an excellent audio tour with narration by former inmates and guards. Heck, even the boat ride across the bay is worth the price. See p. 171. W A Walk or Bike Ride Across the : Don your wind- breaker and walking shoes and prepare for a wind-blasted, exhilarating jour- ney across San Francisco’s most famous landmark. It’s simply one of those things you have to do at least once in your life. See p. 182. W A Stroll Through Chinatown: Chinatown is a trip—about as close to experi- encing Asia as you can get without a passport. Skip the ersatz camera and luggage stores and head straight for the food markets, where a cornucopia of

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004_9781118027479-ch01.indd4_9781118027479-ch01.indd 3 77/11/11/11/11 112:462:46 PMPM 1 critters that you’ll never see at Safeway sit in boxes waiting for the wok. (Is that an armadillo?) Better yet, take one of Shirley Fong-Tor- res’s Wok Wiz tours of Chinatown (p. 220). W A Game at AT&T Park: If it’s baseball season, then you must spend an afternoon or evening watching the National League’s Giants at one of the fi n-

The Best Splurge Hotels Splurge Best The est ballparks in America. For only

$10 you can buy a bleacher seat on the day of a game. Even if the sea- son’s over, you can still take a guided tour of the stadium. See p. 174. The Ritz-Carlton lobby. THE best splurge HOTELS W The Ritz-Carlton, 600 Stockton St., Nob Hill (& 800/241-3333 or 415/296-7465; www.ritzcarlton.com), is the sine qua non of luxury hotels, offering near-perfect service and every possible amenity. Even if you can’t afford a guest room, come for the mind-blowing Sunday brunch. See p. 82. W Four Seasons Hotel San Francisco, 757 Market St., south of Market THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO OF SAN THE BEST Street (SoMa; & 800/819-5053 or 415/633-3000; www.fourseasons.com), is the perfect combination of opulence, hipness, and class. I can’t afford it either, but I sure love to hang out at the bar and pretend. See p. 83. W The Mandarin Oriental, 222 Sansome St., Financial District (& 800/622- 0404 or 415/276-9888; www.mandarinoriental.com/sanfrancisco), is perched so high above the city that the fog rolls in below you. Take in the view from your glass-wall bathtub. Maybe I really did die and go to heaven? See p. 90. W The St. Regis Hotel, 125 Third St., SoMa (& 877/787-3447 or 415/284- 4000; www.stregis.com/sanfrancisco), has these touch-screen remote con- trols that let you operate everything in your room—without leaving your bed. Add a destination restaurant and a fabulous two-fl oor spa, and why would you ever want to leave? See p. 86. THE best MODERATELY PRICED HOTELS W Laurel Inn, 444 Presidio Ave., Pacifi c Heights (& 800/552-8735 or 415/567-8467; www.thelaurelinn.com), may be off the beaten track, but it’s one of the best affordable, fashionable hotels in the city. Just outside of the southern entrance to the Presidio in the midst of residential Presidio Heights, it’s a chic motel with soothing, contemporary decor and equally calming prices. See p. 96.

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The Best Dining Experiences

A room at the Hotel Union Square.

W The Hotel Bohème, 444 Columbus Ave., Nob Hill (& 415/433-9111; www.hotelboheme.com), is the perfect mixture of art, style, class, romance, and location—just steps from the sidewalk cafes of North Beach. If Bette Davis were alive today, this is where she’d stay. See p. 94. W Hotel Union Square, 114 Powell St., Union Square (& 415/397-3000; www.hotelunionsquare.com), is an updated classic in an ideal location. A $5-million renovation in 2008 melded contemporary elements with historical San Francisco features dating back to 1915. See p. 76. W Hotel Adagio, 550 Geary St., Union Square (& 800/228-8830 or 415/775- 5000; www.thehoteladagio.com), is far more chic and hip than its category counterparts. The 1929 Spanish Revival building has sexy streamlined rooms swathed in rich spice and earth tones. See p. 70. W The Golden Gate Hotel, 775 Bush St., Union Square (& 800/835-1118 or 415/392-3702; www.goldengatehotel.com), receives nothing but kudos from satisfi ed returning guests. Just 2 blocks from Union Square, this 1913 Edwardian hotel is a charmer and a fantastic value. See p. 78. THE best DINING EXPERIENCES W The Best of the City’s Fine Dining: La Folie, 2316 Polk St., Russian Hill (& 415/776-5577), has been the place to go for cuisine at its fi nest since 1988. Celebrity chef Roland Passot never fails to offer his guests a delightfully long, lavish meal. And then there’s Restaurant Gary Danko, 800 North Point St., Fisherman’s Wharf (& 415/749-2060; p. 139), always a sure bet for a perfect contemporary French meal complete with polished service and fl ambéed fi nales.

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004_9781118027479-ch01.indd4_9781118027479-ch01.indd 5 77/11/11/11/11 112:462:46 PMPM 1 W Best Classic San Francisco Dining Experience: The lovable loudmouths working behind the narrow counter of Swan Oyster Depot, 1517 Polk St. (& 415/673-1101), have been satisfying patrons with fresh crab, shrimp, oysters, and clam chowder since 1912. My dad doesn’t care much for visiting San Francisco (“Too crowded!”) but he loves having lunch at this beloved sea- food institution. See p. 131. W Best Dining on Dungeness Crab: Eating fresh Dungeness crabmeat straight from Fisherman’s Wharf seafood vendors’ boiling pots at the corner of Jeffer- son and Taylor streets may be touristy, but it’s the quintessential San Fran- cisco experience. See p. 139. Locals are more apt to go to Swan Oyster Depot. See p. 131. W Best Dim Sum Feast: If you like Chinese food in bite-size portions, you’ll love dim sum. At Ton Kiang, 5821 Geary Blvd., the Richmond (& 415/387- The Best Dining Experiences Best The

8273; p. 169), you’ll be wowed by the variety of dumplings and mysterious

dishes. Don’t worry about the language barrier; just point at what looks good and it will be delivered. For downtown dim sum, the venerable Yank Sing, 101 Spear St. (& 415/957-9300; p. 123), offers an exotic edible surprise on every cart that’s wheeled to your table. W Best Breakfast: We have a tie: Dottie’s True Blue Café, 522 Jones St. (& 415/885-2767; p. 117), has taken the classic American breakfast to a new level—maybe the best I’ve ever had. Crummy neighborhood, superb food. Ella’s, 500 Presidio Ave. (& 415/441-5669; p. 145), is far more yup- pie, equally divine, and in a much better neighborhood, but it’s so popular that the wait on weekend mornings is brutal. W Best Funky Atmosphere: That’s an easy one: Tommy’s Joynt, 1101 Geary Blvd. (& 415/775-4216). The interior looks like a Buffalo Bill museum that

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO OF SAN THE BEST imploded, the exterior paint job looks like a circus tent on acid, and the huge trays of hofbrau classics will make your arteries harden just by looking at them. See p. 154.

A vendor at Fisherman’s Wharf. A view from the bar at Tommy’s Joynt.

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004_9781118027479-ch01.indd4_9781118027479-ch01.indd 6 77/11/11/11/11 112:462:46 PMPM W Best Family-Style Restaurant: Giant platters of classic Italian food and 1 carafes fi lled with table wine are placed on long wooden tables by motherly

waitresses while Sinatra classics play to the festive crowd of contented diners. THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO Welcome to North Beach–style family dining at Capp’s Corner, 1600 Pow- ell St. (& 415/989-2589). See p. 136. W Best Surreal Dining Experience: This has to be sitting cross-legged on a pil- low, shoes off, smoking apricot tobacco out of a hookah, eating baba ghanouj, and drinking spiced wine in an exotic Middle Eastern setting while beautiful, sensuous belly dancers glide across the dining room. Unwind your mind at Kan Zaman, 1793 Haight St. (& 415/751-9656). See p. 165. W Best Wine Country Dining: If you’re a foodie, you already know that one of the top restaurants in the world, French Laundry, 6640 Washington St. 1 (& 707/944-2380; p. 362), is about 1 ⁄2 hours north of the city in the Wine Country’s tiny town of Yountville. Only die-hard diners need apply: You’ll need

to fi ght for a reservation 2 months in advance. A more relaxed alternative is

Terra, 1345 Railroad Ave., St. Helena (& 707/963-8931; p. 365), where award-winning chef Hiro Sone shows his culinary creativity and mastery of The Best Things to Do for Free (or Almost) French, Italian, and Japanese cuisine within a historic fi eldstone split dining room. THE best THINGS TO DO FOR FREE (OR ALMOST) W Meander Along the Marina’s Golden Gate Promenade and . There’s something about strolling the promenade that just feels right. The combination of beach, bay, boats, Golden Gate views, and clean, cool breezes is good for the soul. Don’t miss snacks at the Warming Hut. See p. 206. W Wake up with North Beach Coff ee. One of the most pleasurable smells of San Francisco is the aroma of roasted coffee beans wafting down Columbus Avenue in the early morning. Start the day with a cup of Viennese on a side- walk table at Caffè Greco, 423 Columbus Ave. (& 415/397-6261), fol- lowed by a walk down Columbus Avenue to the bay. W Browse the Haight. Though the power of the fl ower has wilted, the Haight is still, more or less, the Haight: a sort of resting home for aging hippies, ex- Deadheads, skate punks, and an eclectic assortment of young panhandlers. Think of it as a people zoo as you walk down the rows of used-clothing stores, hip boutiques, and leather shops. End the tour with a pitcher of sangria and a plate of mussels at Cha Cha Cha (p. 164), one of my favorite restaurants that’s a bargain to boot. W Pretend to be a Guest at the Palace or Fairmont Hotels. You may not be staying the night, but you can certainly feel like a million bucks in the public spaces at the Palace Hotel (p. 85). The extravagant creation of banker “Bonanza King” Will Ralston in 1875, the Palace Hotel has one of the grand- est rooms in the city: the Garden Court, where you can have high tea under

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While you’re frugally sipping your “17 Ft. Ceiling” espresso from your perch at Blue Bottle (p. 149), plan your day with tips from Frommer’s San Francisco Free & Dirt Cheap (Wiley Publishing, Inc.):

1. Tickets to the dropped in between voyages (dried (p. 188) ain’t cheap, but you can climb whale penis anyone?). to the top of the museum’s 144-foot 4. If you log onto www.calacademy.org/ observation tower for free. And if you webcams/penguins you can see what can time it right, admission is free the the California Academy of Sciences’ fi rst Tuesday of each month. penguins are up to via their 2. The Boudin Demonstration Bakery PenguinCams, which off er three The Best Outdoor Activities Outdoor Best The (p. 175; pictured below) at the Wharf real-time views of the new penguin

has a nifty little free museum hidden exhibit. It’s mesmerizing. upstairs that explains the symbiotic 5. If you want to watch a Giants game relationship between San Francisco for free, you can join the “knothole and its unique sourdough loaf. The story and science behind the “mother dough” is fascinating, as are their demonstrations. Bakery visitors can watch the entire baking process from a 30-foot observation window along Jeff erson Street. 3. Hard to fi nd, but worth the eff ort, is a funky little bar in North Beach called

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO OF SAN THE BEST Specs’ (p. 286). It looks like a maritime museum that imploded, with walls featuring historically eclectic seafaring oddities brought back by long-dead sailors who

a stained-glass dome. Running a close second is the magnifi cent lobby at Nob Hill’s (p. 80). W Sip a Cocktail in the Clouds. One of the greatest ways to view the city is from a top-fl oor lounge in hotels such as the Sir Francis Drake (p. 73), the Grand Hyatt San Francisco (p. 63), and the venerable InterContinental, Mark Hopkins (p. 81). Drinks aren’t cheap, but considering you’re not pay- ing for the view, it almost seems like a bargain. THE best OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES W A Day in Golden Gate Park: Exploring Golden Gate Park is an essential part of the San Francisco experience. Its arboreal paths stretch from the Haight all the way to Ocean Beach, offering dozens of fun things to do along the way.

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004_9781118027479-ch01.indd4_9781118027479-ch01.indd 8 77/11/11/11/11 112:462:46 PMPM 1 gang” at the Portwalk (located behind right fi eld) to catch a free THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO glimpse of the game through cut-out portholes into the ballpark. In the spirit of sharing, Portwalk peekers are encouraged to take in only an inning or two before giving way to fellow fans. 6. Free steak sandwiches! Well, kinda free. Every Monday through Friday, Morton’s Steakhouse (400 Post St. at & Powell St.; 415/986-5830; pictured physicians to treat “hysteria”? right) hosts a happy hour at their BAR Fascinating.

12•21, where you can stuff yourself on

four Petite Filet Mignon Sandwiches at 9. If you’re looking for a buddy to ride The Best Outdoor Activities the bar for only $7. bikes with, the 511 Bike Buddy Ridematch Service will pair you up 7. Every second Thursday of the month, with someone at your skill level at no you can watch free movies in cost. Log onto www.ridematch.511. Dolores Park, located at 20th and org, click on “Bicycling,” then click on Dolores streets. Bring a blanket and “Bike Buddy Matching.” even your dog if you’d like, as well as a little cash to buy the world’s best 10. If city life is stressing you out, take tamales from the Tamale Lady. some free tai chi lessons. Log onto www.sfnpc.org/tai-chi-in-the-parks 8. The Good Vibrations sex-toy shop for a list of places and times that the (p. 260) on Valencia Street is worth free lessons are off ered. There’s no visiting just to see their Antique need to register; just show up and Vibrator Museum. Who knew that dress comfortably. vibrators have been around since 1869 and were prescribed by

Top sights are the , the Japanese Tea Garden, the fabulous de Young Museum (p. 188) and its eco-fabulous cross-concourse neighbor, the California Academy of Sciences (p. 186). The best time to go is Sunday, when main roads in the park are closed to traffi c (rent a bike for the full effect). Toward the end of the day, head west to the beach and watch the sunset. See p. 208. W A Walk Along the Coastal Trail: Stroll the forested Coastal Trail from Cliff House to the Golden Gate Bridge, and you’ll see why San Franciscans put up with living on a fault line. Start at the parking lot just above Cliff House and head north. On a clear day, you’ll have incredible views of the Marin Head- lands, but even on foggy days, it’s worth the trek to scamper over old bunkers and relish the cool, salty air (dress warmly). See “The Presidio & Golden Gate National Recreation Area,” beginning on p. 204, for more on this area.

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The Coastal Trail is steps from the beach.

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO OF SAN THE BEST W A Wine Country Excursion: It’ll take you about an hour to get there, but once you arrive you’ll want to hopscotch from one winery to the next, perhaps picnic in the vineyards, or have an alfresco lunch somewhere atmo- The Best Activities for Families spheric like Tra Vigne. And con- sider this: When the city is fogged For a list of San Francisco attractions that in and cold, Napa and Sonoma appeal to kids of all ages, see the “Espe- are almost always sunny and cially for Kids” box on p. 216 of chapter 6. warm. See chapter 11 for more information. W A Climb up or down the Filbert Street Steps: San Francisco is a city of stairways, and the crème de la crème of scenic steps is Filbert Street between Sansome Street and the east side of Telegraph Hill, where steep Filbert Street becomes Filbert Steps, a 377-stair descent that wends its way through fl ower gardens and some of the city’s oldest and most varied housing. It’s a beautiful walk down from , and great exercise going up.

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EXPERIENCES THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO W A Soul-Stirring Sunday Morning Service at Glide Memorial Church: Every city has churches, but only San Francisco has the Glide. An hour or so with Reverend Cecil Williams and his exuberant gospel choir will surely shake your soul and let the glory out. No matter what your religious beliefs may be—everybody leaves this Tenderloin church spiritually uplifted and slightly misty-eyed. See p. 212. W A Cruise Through the Castro: The most populated and festive street in the city is not just for gays and lesbians (though the best cruising in town is right here). Great shops and cafes aside, the best reason to come here is for the people-watching. If you have time, catch a fl ick and a live organ performance at the beautiful 1930s Spanish colonial movie palace, the

(p. 297). See “Neighborhoods Worth a Visit,” beginning on p. 197, for more

info. The Best Off W Skating Through Golden Gate Park on a Weekend: C’mon, when’s the last time you went rollerblading? If you’ve never tried skating before, there’s no better place to learn than on the wide, fl at main street through Golden Gate Park, which is closed to vehicles on Sundays. W Catching Big Air in Your Car: Relive Bullitt or The Streets of San Francisco beat Travel Experiences as you careen down the center lane of Gough Street between Ellis and Eddy streets, screaming out “Wooooeee!” Feel the pull of gravity leave you momen- tarily, followed by the thump of the car suspension bottoming out. Wimpier folk can settle for driving down the steepest street in San Francisco: Filbert Street, between Leavenworth and Hyde streets. W AsiaSF: The gender-bending waitresses—mostly Asian men dressed very convincingly as hot-to-trot women—will blow your mind with their perfor- mance of lip-synched show tunes, which takes place every night. Bring the parents—they’ll love it. See p. 129.

LEFT: The Castro Theatre. RIGHT: Relive the 1968 Steve McQueen thriller Bullitt.

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Here’s your guide to some of the city’s most curious (and beloved) characters:

W The Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence W Strictly devout Christians don’t (www.thesisters.org) appear at always fi nd this amusing, but every almost every public event to give Easter brings the Hunky Jesus their blessing—though these “sisters” Contest to Dolores Park, which have Adam’s apples and sometimes combines men of various degrees of beards. It started in 1976 as a group hunkiness (and nakedness) and lots of gay men performing The Sound of of religious irreverence. beat Travel Experiences beat Travel Music and then morphed into nuns W More nudity (there’s no shortage of it carrying fake machine guns and here if you know where to look): The cigars in local parades; now the World Naked Bike Ride takes place satirical act is also a charity that is

The Best Off Best The around the world twice a year devoted to “community service,

(partially to bring attention to the ministry and outreach to those on the dangers of gas emissions); the edges, and to promoting human Northern Hemisphere date is in rights, respect for diversity and mid-March, and the Southern spiritual enlightenment.” Hemisphere date is in mid-June. San W Spotting a graffi ti artist at work is rare; you may have more luck fi nding a muralist at work in the Mission district. Contact (p. 204), which oversees much of the mural painting, for more information, and ask if they’ll clue you in on their painting schedule.

THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO OF SAN THE BEST W You’ll fi nd a crowd of older Chinese men smoking up a storm and playing mah-jongg and cards in Portsmouth Square in Chinatown. Try www. sanfranciscochinatown.com.

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004_9781118027479-ch01.indd4_9781118027479-ch01.indd 1212 77/11/11/11/11 112:462:46 PMPM 1 THE BEST OF SAN FRANCISCO Francisco now participates in both, naturally. Visit www.sfbikeride.org for specifi c dates, routes, and more.

W Head to Golden Gate Park (p. 208) on a weekend to fi nd lawn-bowlers and occasionally an impromptu drum circle. W Head to Ocean Beach (p. 222) to watch surfers in action, especially on weekends. You may hear surfer lingo vendors. Visit Cap’n Mike & Sally in similar to this comment posted on the outdoor market area for fantastic

www.wannasurf.com: “48 F, cold and smoked fi sh; you can take smoked scary . . . but tubed every once in a The Best Off fi sh with you back on a plane as a while . . . ice cream headaches every treat for yourself or as a gift for your duck dive . . . what an awesome housesitter. Visit www.holysmoked break, though.” salmon.com.

W David Johnson, aka the Bush Man, beat Travel Experiences W You’ll fi nd every stripe of ethnic has been popping out from behind group, class, and age range on the his faux bush at since 1980, city’s public transportation—on the when he decided to give up his robot bus, beware of Epic Beard Man, a act for something more unique. His 68-year-old white male (with yes, a former collaborator, Gregory Jacobs, scruff y gray beard) who was caught is now a rival competitor. Watch on video punching out a black man video of startled tourists at http://bit. on an AC Transit bus after a racially ly/dArD58. charged argument. Naturally, in this W You’ll meet some of the city’s Web-centric town, the video went friendliest foodies at the Saturday viral and spawned several Internet morning Farmers’ Market at the memes. Read more at http:// Ferry Building (p. 179). Nosh on free knowyourmeme.com/memes/ samples while you chat up the epic-beard-man.

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