READY TO BE AMAZED? HONEYMOON HEARTLANDS

NEWLY-WEDS ALWAYS HOPE THEIR MARRIAGE WILL PLAY OUT LIKE A FAIRY-TALE. SO WHAT BETTER WAY TO START THAN WITH A HONEYMOON IN ROMANTIC EUROPE? ANDY ROUND IS SEDUCED BY THE GODDESS OF LOVE IN CYPRUS, HAS HIS HEART BROKEN BY ROMEO AND JULIET IN VERONA AND FALLS HEAD OVER HEELS FOR THE ROMANTIC LEGENDS OF LATVIA.

Text by Andy Round / Photographs by Christian Andersson

USEFUL WEBSITES http://europa.eu/wonder-is-all-around www.visiteurope.com ISLAND WITH AUNIQUE MEDITERRANEAN MAGIC. SPELL OVER THEISLAND OFCYPRUS SEDUCINGTRAVELLERS THE GODDESSOFLOVE APHRODITE CASTSA CAPTIVATING OFLOVE

CYPRUS fertility dating back to the 12th century BC. dating backtothe12thcentury fertility of oftheart anda lively celebration rock carvings accommodating priestesses, provocatively shaped ship the goddess, boardstelltales of but information stones isallthat is leftofthetemple created to wor of Aphrodite. Today a The areaofPaphos wasoncethecentrefor thecult deities.’ fertility people cametoworship dite’s where Rockhasbeena placeofpilgrimage Neoptolemos Michael. ‘And for centuries Aphro­ poetry, music, sculpture and literature,’ says guide Aphrodite hasinspiredart,‘Throughout history canclaimtobetheislandof Cyprus Aphrodite. Sicily and Sardinia to Malta and Madeira, but only views, and magical beaches from sunny panoramas There are dozens of European islands with stunning stomach. ‘My baby isdueina few days.’ I justcame to this hilltop,’ smilesPashko, stroking her and great fertility. ‘I didn’t have to do the swimming. Rock threetimesyou willbeblessed withgreat love it, has legend So you if swimaround Aphrodite’s for yourplace andthenstay honeymoon.’ inCyprus togenic. My clientslove it. You inthis cangetmarried tion. ‘Why here? It’s unimaginably romantic and pho Cyprus. There areatleastthreea week inthisloca Pashko more than 400 weddings in has organised Aphrodite. ofthe goddess oflove rock said to be birthplace into rows. Below, waves against the sparkling crash spotless white chairs while her assistants arrange arch coveredtouches to an elaborate with roses planner Tatania Pashko is putting the finishing On a limestone hilltop overlooking the sea, wedding vast area of scattered sacred - - - and always stunningsunsets.’ intimate beachestoenjoy ‘There arelotsofdeserted Michael searches for the right words to describe the and contemporary Aphrodites pose provocatively legacy of the famous goddess. ‘Aphrodite had, well, for photographs in tiny bikinis and giant sunshades. a complicated love life,’ he laughs. This is an under- Nearby, couples saunter arm-in-arm around the five- statement. In the soap opera world of Greek gods, star Aphrodite Hills resort, a contemporary temple goddesses and mere mortals, Aphrodite had an of love that seduces the devoted with private Jacuz­ insatiable romantic appetite. No wonder her aphro- zis, plunge pools and giant suites. disiac influence is everywhere in Paphos. Beyond Aphrodite, Cyprus enjoys plenty of other On the beach by the goddess’s birthplace, hearts are romantic reasons to claim the title of the island of outlined in pebbles, romantic graffiti scars the rock love, says Nasos Hadjigeorgiou of Paphos Regional Board of Tourism. ‘We are famous for our pictur- esque villages and dramatic coastline. There are lots of deserted intimate beaches to enjoy and always stunning sunsets.’

‘In Paphos the pace of life is very relaxed and that’s what people love. It’s very romantic to walk by the harbour and enjoy a drink before having dinner at At the House of Dionysius, believed to be the home of an intimate fish restaurant. I used to do these things myself with my girlfriend. I still do now she’s my wife.’ the former Roman governor, amazingly pristine mosaics

Paphos certainly has a relaxed holiday feel. Along from the 2nd century AD tell tales of transformation, the promenade are bright souvenir shops, sea-view restaurants and bars as well as an atmospheric 16th jealousy and love. century castle guarding sleek superyachts and bob- bing fishing boats in the harbour.

Every September the fort is the venue for the Aphrodite opera festival and exciting performances At the vast moonscape of Paphos’ Tomb of the The stories are endless. In one there is Narcissus are already being planned in anticipation of Paphos’ Kings, giant catacombs are carved from the lime- ­falling in love with his reflection, in another Phaedra status as European Capital of Culture in 2017, a title stone rock, the final monumental resting places of being burned by Eros. Then there is poor irresisti- TREE OF LOVE it will share with Aarhus in Denmark. generations of Romans. ble Ganymede being whisked away by Zeus, Ovid’s Pyramus and Thisbe who died for love and inspired On Apostolos Pavlos Avenue, overlooking the Paphos has always been internationally popular. At the House of Dionysius, believed to be the home Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet and a constant pro- gloomy shadows of St Solomon’s catacombs is an In the past Phoenicians, Egyptians, Persians, Turks and of the former Roman governor, amazingly pristine cession of ever-ready hairy-legged satyr seducers. ancient tree festooned with thousands of handker- sunburned European tourists all stopped off for mosaics from the 2nd century AD tell tales of trans- chiefs. In Cyprus it is a tradition to tie a cloth to extended visits, but it is the legacy of the Romans formation, jealousy and love. ‘This is the dining lounge area,’ says Neoptolemos a tree in memory of loved ones. that lingers on most spectacularly. Michael gesturing across acres of bright mosaics. ‘Banquets would be served here to entertain high TRULY, MADLY, DEEPLY ranking guests and afterwards everything would be cleared away so the orgies could start.’ ‘A wonderful thing for couples to do is to experi- ence scuba diving,’ says Photos Socratous of Cydive. Contemporary lovers in Cyprus tend to prefer ‘Discovering a new world together for the first time slightly more exclusive arrangements. In the Almyra is incredibly romantic. In Cyprus, the visibility is Hotel, infinity pools, private nine-course dinners on clear, the water is warm and there are underwater sun-kissed rooftops and a cutting-edge spa offer sites that date back to Roman times.’ every 21st century indulgence.

‘People like to get married here because they can POWER OF LOVE spend a week with their guests and then disappear into their own private world for a honeymoon,’ says Aphrodite is the irresistibly beautiful Greek god- the hotel’s wedding organiser Sally Boyce. dess of love and fertility. After emerging as a desir- able woman from the sea off Cyprus (the product It is certainly romantic. On the hotel’s manicured of godly genitals tossed in the waves), she was lawn that evening a Lebanese couple celebrate married off to ugly Hephaestus by Zeus and a warm honeymoon night with a private dinner. immediately set about being unfaithful. No god or Next door at the Annabelle Hotel a wedding party mortal was safe from her sexual appetite. Just for is enjoying a show of traditional Cypriot music and starters, she was the lover of Adonis (as well as dance. There is a lot of cheering. being his surrogate mother) and Ares, god of war. Her capricious nature contributed to starting the The next day in the hotel lobby the goddess of love Trojan War (she inflamed Paris’ desire for Helen makes an unexpected appearance. ‘Enjoy your day,’ and he kidnapped her) and she put snakes in the says the receptionist with the most romantic nam- hair of Medusa because she was jealous of her etag on the island. Of course, it reads Aphrodite. beauty. Complicated, scheming, deadly, beautiful and passionate, Aphrodite is irresistible.

In the Almyra Hotel, infinity pools, private nine-course dinners on sun-kissed rooftops and a cutting-edge spa offer every 21st century indulgence. CYPRUS USEFUL WEBSITE www.visitpafos.org.cy In the digital age love moves at hyper-speed. Students Daniella Katz and Jade Bruni may have only just arrived at the Italian home where Shakespeare’s Romeo sought out his Juliet but they have already uploaded romantic pictures to their boyfriends in South Africa.

With smartphones they photograph each other writing declarations of love on graffiti-loaded walls and attaching padlocks festooned with hearts to nearby railings. They then press ‘send’.

‘I have two keys,’ says Daniella after securing her lock. ‘One is for my boyfriend the other is for me. I’m locking up our love.’

‘Doesn’t everyone read Romeo and Juliet at school?’ laughs Jade. ‘We had to come here, it’s the most romantic place in the world.’ No kidding. Daniele Angelini organises about 600 weddings in Verona every year for the city hall organ- ‘Here’ is the 13th century house, said to have been isation Sposami a Verona (‘Marry me in Verona’). the home of Giulietta Cappelletti, a name later angli- ‘Couples come as far away as Peru and South Africa,’ cised to become the most famous romantic heroine he says. ‘You have to reserve months in advance in history, Shakespeare’s Juliet Capulet. because venues like Juliet’s house are extremely popular. Two metres above the courtyard, Kate Backhouse ITALY ITALY and Bas Heerma van Voss laugh as they pose for pic- ‘Our most unusual request? A couple got married in tures on the most famous balcony in literary history. the crypt of Juliet’s tomb. They wore gothic clothes. And so did their guests.’ ‘I think the appeal of Romeo and Juliet is that they made the ultimate sacrifice for an impossible love,’ The tomb is a gloomy place for a wedding. Featuring LOSE YOUR HEART says Kate. When she kisses her boyfriend, the tour- a chunky broken sarcophagus in the vaults of the ists below cheer. church of San Francesco, this is where, according to IN VERONA local legend, Romeo and Juliet committed suicide. Verona does this to people. Upstairs in the Museum of Frescoes, the mood is THE ENCHANTED ITALIAN HOME OF SHAKESPEARE’S ROMEO AND ‘The city makes you fall in love with love,’ says guide ­infinitely lighter and the smiles of volunteers working JULIET HAS BEEN CAPTIVATING TRAVELLERS FOR CENTURIES. Franklin Baumgarten. at the Juliet Club are brighter than sunshine. ‘Our most unusual request? A couple got married in the crypt of Juliet’s tomb. They wore gothic clothes. And so did their guests.’

The club started in 1989 in response to the huge volume of heartbroken letters from all over the world addressed simply to ‘Juliet, Verona’.

‘Today we receive around 100 000 every year and we have a team of 20 volunteers who reply to every letter that has a return address,’ says the club’s sec- SHAKESPEARE’S retary Giovanna Tamassia. TRAGIC LOVERS She shifts through a pile of hand-written material Their families may be sworn enemies, but Romeo Montague featuring diaries, wedding invitations, cartoons, items and Juliet Capulet are in love and they secretly marry. Unfor- of jewellery and endless stories of unrequited love. tunately, Romeo becomes embroiled in a revenge killing and ‘For these people Juliet is a muse. I think just the act is exiled from Verona. While he is gone Juliet attempts to of writing is a therapy in itself.’ avoid an arranged marriage by taking a potion that puts her into a comatose state. When Romeo returns and finds his There are plenty of romantic cities in Europe from lover apparently dead, he kills himself next to her body. Juliet Paris to Prague, but combined with Shakespeare’s awakes and, grief-stricken, stabs herself to death. famous romance, Verona offers all the magic of Italy distilled into one irresistible romantic package of glorious chapels, al fresco restaurants, baroque palazzos, cobbled streets, soaring pine trees, roman- tic bridges, medieval towers and staggeringly beau- tiful churches. At the city’s popular Caffé Dante in the medieval castle. Legend has it that this was the home of the Piazza dei Signori, Pierangelo Tommasi sets an Montecchi or Montague family and the birthplace atmospheric scene. ‘This restaurant is very popular, of Romeo. but it really comes to life at night. Imagine candle- light glowing, a couple in love, delicious plates of ‘We see a lot of romance here because we only offer gnocchi with fresh truffle and, of course, a bottle communal seating,’ says chef Alessandro Vignola, of full-bodied red wine Amarone from the nearby over a serving of traditional Veronese horse stew, Valopolicella area. You can’t say no to that.’ ­pastissada de caval. ‘Strangers sit together, chat and before you know it, there’s a spark. We have seen WHEART AND SOUL It’s also impossible to say no to the rustic charms a few romances start here and end in marriage.’ of nearby Osteria al Duca, one of the city’s oldest Over four days every February, including Valen­ ­taverns based in a creaky 13th century crenelated Romance is at the heart of Verona, but the city’s soul tine’s Day, the city stages ‘Verona in Love’ a festi- is its 2000-year-old Roman arena and the 58-perfor- val of romantic films, plays, music, heart-shaped mance Opera Festival held here every summer. markets, romantic restaurant menus and hun- Incredibly, on up to three consecutive nights, there dreds of events. When it started in 2008 there can be three different performances. were around 10 000 visitors, today the festival attracts 50 000. ‘Every year we stage a mass syn- ‘The festival started in 1913, attracts up 15 000 peo- chronised kiss when thousands of people young ple a night and is the biggest outdoor opera in the and old gather together in a romantic Verona world,’ says the festival’s art director Paolo Gavazzeni, location to kiss one another for one minute,’ says strolling the vast ancient stage. festival director Loris Danielli.

‘The acoustics are so perfect there are no micro- phones. But it is not just about music. Beneath a dra- SUPER SPA matic magical sky at night, you really feel connected to the power of nature.’ Verona’s spring waters have attracted visitors for centuries, but today contemporary spa lovers But it is the power of love that brings people back find their way to Aquardens, a giant thermal to Verona. water centre 20 minutes from Verona. Attract- ing 300 000 visitors during its first year in 2012, Outside the arena, watching the delivery of giant Aquardens is open until midnight and features props for Verdi’s Aida, is Monica Viviani from outdoor and indoor pools, lagoons, waterfalls and Verona’s tourism organisation: ‘Do you remember whirlpools as well as a dedicated centre for mas- the 1990s film version of Romeo and Juliet? Well, sages and spa treatments. the actor who played Romeo, Leonardo DiCaprio, is said to own that beautiful house across the square. It’s wonderful to think that modern day ITALY USEFUL WEBSITE Romeos are still falling in love with Verona. www.tourism.verona.it/en LATVIA OF THIS ENCHANTED LAND WILL CAPTUREYOUR HEART. JUST A SHORT DRIVEFROMTHELATVIAN CAPITAL OFRIGA. THELEGENDS SOME OFTHEMOSTROMANTIC FORESTSANDBEACHES INEUROPEARE FOR LOVERS

LATVIA vating theirlove innearby Gūtmanis cave. gardener, Victor, andtheywould spendnightsculti Rose of Turaida. Rose, appropriately, fell for thelocal to become the great beauty known as theraised of a cued fromthecarnage And this is how it goes. A baby girl, Maija, was res this legend.’ with up grows Latvia in Zaķīte. ‘Everyone Gunta to 20 wedding couples ina Latvia’s lover. tragic ‘On someoccasionswe have up paynewly-weds homage to the tomb of regularly the Just minutes from Gauja Valley, inthe shadow of Turaida. quite like the tale of the Rose of Latvian hearts may besweet,Spulle’s melts story but nostory couple stilllive aroundhere.’ don’tyou think?’‘Sweet story smiles Spulle. ‘The been enjoying stunningvalley viewsever since. have tourists and love true his married Janelsītis short, the cable car opened in 1969.Long story inGeorgia. fromengineers technical expertise and even managed to secure local financial support Janelsītis researched his subject carefully, lobbied for was by having a cable carlink.’ the only way hecouldspend time with her regularly ley from him,’ says guide Dana Spulle. ‘So he decided the other side of the val in the sanatorium worked a with love in fell Janelsītis Aivars man unlikely romance. symbolof 1960s, the ‘In a local Gauja Valley istheonly cable carinLatvia. Itisan Suspended 43 metres over the lush forest of Latvia’s 800-year-old of gothic towers Turaida castle, day,’ says museum guide 17th century battle and 17th century il who girl - - - cave. cave. Just a He wounded her and shedied. Tragic.’ ‘She told Adam totestitsmagicwithhissword. neck scarf would protect her from harm,’ says Zaķīte. cave. ‘Rather thanbeunfaithful, shetoldhimher his advances, herintoa meetinginthe hetricked Maijarejected also appeared onthesceneandwhen About this time, Adam, a museum. Nature Park, there attractive rustic is an open-air Among the ancient pines of J�rmala at K�pa Raga in the woods essential romantic is an activity. nature a stroll isclose and heart to every Latvian’s protected633 areas distinctive four seasons, and LatviacoveredWithof cent per 54 forest,lush in WOODED BLISS broken heart away from broken heart Turaida is the famous more predatory suitor more predatory Guide Dana Spulle points out the romantic graffiti (to test a groom’s manhood) or through a competi- dating back to the 17th century. ‘Wealthy people tive 13th century coin game (to decide who will run would come here and commission personalised the household budget). messages from artisans who would climb ladders looking for untouched stone to carve,’ she says. At Cēsis Castle, guide Liene Pelēkzirne reveals how marriage ceremonies are regularly held in one of For a small country, Latvia is big on love. the ancient ruined towers officiated by dignitaries costumed in medieval wedding wear. The ‘newer’ ‘The nature is unspoiled, the culture is unique and 18th century castle section with its soaring round Latvia offers good value for money for honeymoon- tower is perfect for smaller intimate romantic cele- ers,’ says wedding organiser Agate Lūse. ‘Romance brations, she says. resonates in every mansion, forest and castle. ‘We have anniversary, marriage and engagement Indeed. Ancient stones and romance go together events here,’ says Pelēkzirne. ‘But I think my favour- like love and marriage in Latvia. For instance, the ite story is of a young man who held a candle-lit 900-year-old Livonian Order Sigulda Castle offers ­dinner for his girlfriend before proposing under the the romantically-minded the chance to boost their stars in the medieval tower. She said ‘yes’. love life in a medieval style by throwing spears ‘Jūrmala has always been If that couple were looking for somewhere to escape for a romantic weekend, they would find famous as a romantic it hard to beat the endless white sands and impos- ing villas of Jūrmala, a European Destination of escape for couples.’ Excellence that is just a couple of hours from the wooden houses of Cēsis.

At the local museum, a unique collection of swim- suits charts the area’s history as a chic Baltic seaside resort, from the full-body bathers of the 1800s to the tiny bikinis that followed a century later.

‘Spas have been popular here since my great-grand- father’s time, the beaches are exceptionally clean and the pine forests are a natural inspiration,’ says guide Anda Račiņa. ‘Jūrmala has always been famous as a romantic escape for couples.’

Unsurprisingly, there are plenty of hideaway options in Jūrmala from the Baltic Beach Hotel offering 400 different spa treatments and indulgent five-star suites to the quirky MaMa boutique hotel with its gold-upholstered dog-motif restaurant and eccen- trically stylish attic rooms. GRAND DESIGNS At the beach restaurant of ‘36 Line’, Latvian celeb- rity chef Lauris Aleksejevs serves up dishes of grilled The spectacular M�lpils Manor just 45km from the Latvian capital of Riga is a luxurious stately salmon, lamb and goat stew as the sun sinks into the home with a history that dates back to 1760. ‘The manor was in a terrible state when I saw it warm Baltic. On the sands there is a tented wedding in 2006,’ says owner L�ga Uzkalne. ‘But I fell in love with it. So we restored it to its former glory reception. and transformed it into a romantic wedding venue.’ Renovation work took two years, but the stately home now offers a 125sqm ballroom and suites for 100 guests. Linda Penka from Latvia’s Tourism Agency pauses over her sorbet. ‘I need to bring my boyfriend here,’ she smiles, looking at couples strolling the beach. ‘How did we meet? He gave me a lift and I prom- ised to meet him later to pay for the petrol. That was 22 years ago, he’s still waiting for that money.’ LATVIA USEFUL WEBSITE www.latvia.travel/en USEFUL WEBSITES

http://europa.eu/wonder-is-all-around www.visiteurope.com

European destinations of excellence http://ec.europa.eu/growth/tools-databases/eden/index_en.htm

CYPRUS www.visitpafos.org.cy

ITALY www.tourism.verona.it/en

LATVIA www.latvia.travel/en

© Pictures: European Commission