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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 339 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. working editors. It has been a huge pleasure to work OUR READERS with co-author Anthony, who shares the same pas- Many thanks to the travellers who used the last sion for Africa. At home, a gros bisou to Eva and lots edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful of love to Morgane, whose support was essential. advice and interesting anecdotes: Alex Sternick, Amira Elwakil, Ankerstjerne Rønneberg, Anthony Ham Arie van Oosterwijk, Barney Smith, Basia Jozwiak, Special thanks to so many people in Ethiopia –Tania, Bettina Voss, David French, Denise Hunter , Elizabeth Cheru, Fre, Ingeda, Luigi, Françoise, Shif, Julia, Nick, Greive, Fabrice Cairaschi, Gregory Kipling, Helen Melako, Mohamed, Mulugeta and others. Wegene Boxwill, Ido Gottlieb, Jan van Berkel, Jean Bayle, Temesgen was a wonderful driver, guide and travel Laurence West, Lucy Moodie, Magda Bulska, Maria companion. Matt Phillips continues to be a firm Junyent, Matthew Taylor, Nona Caulkins, Peter friend and fine editor and a man whose passion for McFadden, Polly Compston, Raphael Hernandez, Africa rivals my own. Huge thanks also to Jean- Roy Sells, Rupert Wilkinson, Simone Fischer, Stefan Bernard, another Africa friend and expert of long Kühne, Tajan Tober, Tesfa Gebreab, Timophey standing. And as always to my family who wait Chichkan, Wolfgang Gehring. patiently at home for me to return – gracias amores. WRITER THANKS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Jean-Bernard Carillet Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson A huge thanks to everyone who helped out and made BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the this trip an enlightenment, including Wegene, Tania, Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Houmed, Dominique, Osman, Olivier, Sonja and all Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. the people I met on the road. At LP I’m grateful to Cover photograph: Hamar woman with copper Matt for his trust and support, and to the hard- bracelets, David Schweitzer/Getty Images © 340 book was produced by the Melanie Dankel, Jodie THIS BOOK following: Martire, Jenna Myers, This 6th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Matt Monique Perrin Planet’s Ethiopia & Djibouti Phillips Cartographer Hunor BEHIND THE SCENES guidebook was researched Product Editor Paul Harding Csutoros and written by Jean-Bernard Senior Cartographer Diana Assisting Book Designer Carillet and Anthony Ham. Von Holdt Michael Buick The previous edition was Book DesignerJessica Rose Cover Researcher Naomi written by Jean-Bernard Parker Carillet, Tim Bewer and Assisting Editors Andrew Kate Chapman, Stuart Butler. This guide- Bain, Judith Bamber, Imogen Thanks to Bannister, Nigel Chin, Catherine Naghten, Tania O’Connor ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 341 Index A itineraries 36 Anuak people 219 Awash Arba 184 Abba Garima 107 orientation 33 Arabtu Ensessa Church 96 Awash Falls 182 Abba Jiffar’s Palace 211 shopping 57-62 Arba Minch 156-9, 158 Awash National Park 181-4, Abba Liqanos 102 sights 32-42 Arba Minch Crocodile 182 Abba Pentalewon 96 tours 42 Ranch 156 Aweke, Aster 255 Abba Yohanni 112 travel to/from 59-61 Arbatu Ensessa 125 Awra Amba 74 Abiata-Shala Lakes National travel within 61-2 Arbore 172 azmaris 257 Park 139-40, 140 Addis Ababa Museum 41 Archaeological Museum Azuwa Maryam 74 Abourma Rock Art Site 322 Addis Ababa University 42 (Aksum) 101-2 archaeological sites Abraha We Atsbeha 111 Addis Alem 203 B Abuna Abraham 109 Adi Arkay 90, 91 Abourma Rock Art Site 322 Babille Elephant Sanctuary Abuna Aregawi 251 Adigrat 107 200 Aksum stelae fields 96- Abuna Aregawi church 106 Adwa 106-7 100, 98-9 Babille Market 200 Abuna Gebre Mikael 110 Adwa, Battle of 105 Butajira 137 baboons 273 Abuna Samuel 251 Afar people 184, 246-7 Dilla stelae fields 153 Bahir Dar 67-72, 68 Abuna Yemata Guh 109 Afewerk Tekle’s Home & Dungur (Queen of Bale Mountains 13, 146-52 Studio 40 Abyssinian lions 54 Sheba’s) Palace 101 Bale Mountains National Africa Hall 41 accommodation 20, 280-1, Hadar 185 Park 147-52, 148 see also individual African Quarter Melka Kunture 137 Banana Art Gallery 140-1 locations (Djibouti City) 308 Yeha 113 Bankoualé 319-20 Djibouti 325 AIDS 301 architecture 258-9 Banna people 168 language 332 air travel 290-1, 293-4, Adare houses 195 bathrooms 287, 327 328-9, 294 activities 18-20, see also Bati 131 individual activities to/from Djibouti 328-9 Dorze huts 161 Battle of Adwa 105 Adaitu 184 to/from Ethiopia 290-1 Koremi 200 beaches 139, 308, 322 Adadi Maryam 137 within Ethiopia 293-4 Ardo 319 Arfaide 163 Bebeka Coffee Adare houses 195 airlines 290 Plantation 210 area codes 17 Addis Ababa 15, 30-62, Aksum 93-106, 94-5, 97, Bechu 209 , , , , Ari people 168 31 34-5 38-9 44 19, 244 Bedele 208 46-7, 15 Aksum stelae fields 98-9 Ark of the Covenant 75, 94-5, 203, 229, 260 Bedele Beer Factory 208 accommodation 30, Aksumite architecture 258 Ark of the Covenant Chapel beer 208, 268, 325 43-50 Aksumite coins 100 94-5 begging 110 activities 42 Aksumite kingdom 226-7 Arkwasiye 91 Belai the Cannibal 251 climate 30 Alatash National Park 85 courses 42 art galleries, see museums Bet Abba Libanos 124-6 Ambikwa 90-1 & galleries drinking & nightlife 54-6 Bet Amanuel 124 Ambo 203-6 Arthur Rimbaud Center 193 entertainment 56-7 Bet Danaghel 123 Amda Seyon 233 arts 51, 254-8, 324 festivals & events 42-3 Bet Gabriel-Rufael 124 Amhara people 245-6 Asaita 186 food 30, 50-3 Bet Giyorgis 121 Amharic language 331-8 Ashawa Market 187 Bet Golgotha 123 highlights 31, 31 amoebic dysentery 303 Ashetan Maryam 125 Bet Medhane Alem 121-2 history 32 Amora Gedel Park 143 asmat 252 Bet Merkorios 124 information 58-9 Animal Market (Aksum) 102 Atatami Mikael Church Bet Meskel 123 animals 18, 273-6, see also 79-97 Bet Mikael 123 individual animals ATMs 283, 326 Bet Uraiel 124 antelope migration 21 Map Pages 000 Atsbi Cluster 112 Bete Giorgis 73-4 Anuak Market 217-18 Photo Pages 000 Awasa 142-5, 143 Bete Maryam 73 342 Bete Maryam budgeting 17 Bet Mikael 123 Washa Mikael Church Mausoleum 37-40 bull-jumping ceremony Bet Uraiel 124 36-7 Bete Mikael Church 187 21, 172 Bete Maryam Wukro Cherkos 111 Bete Selassie 74 business hours 17, 284, 327 Mausoleum 37-40 Yemrehanna Kristos 125 bicycle travel 294, see also bus travel 295 Bete Mikael Church 187 Yohannes Maequdi 110 cycling business hours 17, 284, 327 Bilbila Chirkos 125 Church of Abuna Aftse 113 INDEX Bilbila Chirkos 125 Busso 163 Bilbila Giyorgis 125 Church of Debre Sina 85 Bilbila Giyorgis 125 Butajira 136, 137 Church of Abuna Aftse Cimetière Marin 322 birds 274 Buyit Ras 90 113 cinema 222 B-D flamingos 140, 179, Church of Debre Sina 85 civil disturbances 285 315, 318 Daniel Korkor 109-10 climate 16, 21-2 birdwatching 18, 22, 138, C Debre Berhan Selassie calendar, Ethiopian 287 coffee 214, 267 155, 273, 275, 277 77-8, 11 camping 280 Coffee Plantation 210 Abiata-Shala Lakes Djibouti cathedral 308 National Park Canyon, the 309 coins, Aksumite 100 Dugem Selassie 110 Awash National Park car travel 296-7, 329 conservation 85 Église Éthiopienne 182-3 consulates 281-2, 326 cathedrals, see churches & Orthodoxe Tewahido cooking courses 80, 127 Bale Mountains National cathedrals St Gabriel du Soleil Park 147-52 castles 308-9 Coptic calendar 287 Boye Dam 212 Royal Enclosure 78-9 Entoto Maryam Church costs 17, 280-1, 314, 325 Decan 315 cave art 190 61 courses Gibe Sheleko National caves Gebriel Wukien 112-14 cooking 80, 127 Park 218 Goda-Ajawa 190 Geneta Maryam 126 dance 42 Lake Ziway 138 Grotte de la Chauve- Greek Orthodox Church language 42 Simien Mountains Souris 319 187 crafts 324 National Park 86-93 Hyena Den 182 Holy Trinity Cathedral 37 credit cards 284, 326 Yabelo Wildlife Lega-Oda 190 Kidane Mehret Church crocodiles 156, 160 Sanctuary 155 Porc-Epic 190 41 culture 18-19, 20, 245- Birgida Maryam 85 Sof Omar Cave 151 Lalibela churches 9, 59, 324 Bishoftu 179-81, 180 cell phones 16, 327 120-30, 228, 8 currency 16, biting insects 304 chat 191, 266, 316, 324 Maryam Korkor 109 current affairs 222-3, black market 283 Cheila 113 Maryam Papaseit 110 283-4, 326 Blue Nile Bridge 67 Chenek 90 Medhane Alem customs regulations Blue Nile Falls 81 Cathedral 195 281, 325 Chief Kalla Gezahegn’s Blue Nile Gorge 67 home 163 Medhane Alem Church cycling 294, 329 218 Blue Nile River 82 children, travel with 325 Medhane Alem Kesho 111 boat travel 295, 329 Christianity 227, 250-2 D boat trips Mekina Medane Alem churches & cathedrals 37- 126 Daasanach people 168 Blue Nile Outlet 72 40, 114, 8, 11, 12, 244 Meqaber Ga’ewa 111 Dallol 119, 15 Lake Ziway 138 Abba Yohanni 112 Mikael Barka 112 Danakil
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