©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 339
Behind the Scenes
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working editors. It has been a huge pleasure to work OUR READERS with co-author Anthony, who shares the same pas- Many thanks to the travellers who used the last sion for Africa. At home, a gros bisou to Eva and lots edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful of love to Morgane, whose support was essential. advice and interesting anecdotes: Alex Sternick, Amira Elwakil, Ankerstjerne Rønneberg, Anthony Ham Arie van Oosterwijk, Barney Smith, Basia Jozwiak, Special thanks to so many people in Ethiopia –Tania, Bettina Voss, David French, Denise Hunter , Elizabeth Cheru, Fre, Ingeda, Luigi, Françoise, Shif, Julia, Nick, Greive, Fabrice Cairaschi, Gregory Kipling, Helen Melako, Mohamed, Mulugeta and others. Wegene Boxwill, Ido Gottlieb, Jan van Berkel, Jean Bayle, Temesgen was a wonderful driver, guide and travel Laurence West, Lucy Moodie, Magda Bulska, Maria companion. Matt Phillips continues to be a firm Junyent, Matthew Taylor, Nona Caulkins, Peter friend and fine editor and a man whose passion for McFadden, Polly Compston, Raphael Hernandez, Africa rivals my own. Huge thanks also to Jean- Roy Sells, Rupert Wilkinson, Simone Fischer, Stefan Bernard, another Africa friend and expert of long Kühne, Tajan Tober, Tesfa Gebreab, Timophey standing. And as always to my family who wait Chichkan, Wolfgang Gehring. patiently at home for me to return – gracias amores.
WRITER THANKS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Jean-Bernard Carillet Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson A huge thanks to everyone who helped out and made BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the this trip an enlightenment, including Wegene, Tania, Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Houmed, Dominique, Osman, Olivier, Sonja and all Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. the people I met on the road. At LP I’m grateful to Cover photograph: Hamar woman with copper Matt for his trust and support, and to the hard- bracelets, David Schweitzer/Getty Images © 340
book was produced by the Melanie Dankel, Jodie THIS BOOK following: Martire, Jenna Myers, This 6th edition of Lonely Destination Editor Matt Monique Perrin Planet’s Ethiopia & Djibouti Phillips Cartographer Hunor BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND guidebook was researched Product Editor Paul Harding Csutoros and written by Jean-Bernard Senior Cartographer Diana Assisting Book Designer Carillet and Anthony Ham. Von Holdt Michael Buick The previous edition was Book DesignerJessica Rose Cover Researcher Naomi written by Jean-Bernard Parker Carillet, Tim Bewer and Assisting Editors Andrew Kate Chapman, Stuart Butler. This guide- Bain, Judith Bamber, Imogen Thanks to Bannister, Nigel Chin, Catherine Naghten, Tania O’Connor ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 341
Index
A itineraries 36 Anuak people 219 Awash Arba 184 Abba Garima 107 orientation 33 Arabtu Ensessa Church 96 Awash Falls 182 Abba Jiffar’s Palace 211 shopping 57-62 Arba Minch 156-9, 158 Awash National Park 181-4, Abba Liqanos 102 sights 32-42 Arba Minch Crocodile 182 Abba Pentalewon 96 tours 42 Ranch 156 Aweke, Aster 255 Abba Yohanni 112 travel to/from 59-61 Arbatu Ensessa 125 Awra Amba 74 Abiata-Shala Lakes National travel within 61-2 Arbore 172 azmaris 257 Park 139-40, 140 Addis Ababa Museum 41 Archaeological Museum Azuwa Maryam 74 Abourma Rock Art Site 322 Addis Ababa University 42 (Aksum) 101-2 archaeological sites Abraha We Atsbeha 111 Addis Alem 203 B Abuna Abraham 109 Adi Arkay 90, 91 Abourma Rock Art Site 322 Babille Elephant Sanctuary Abuna Aregawi 251 Adigrat 107 200 Aksum stelae fields 96- Abuna Aregawi church 106 Adwa 106-7 100, 98-9 Babille Market 200 Abuna Gebre Mikael 110 Adwa, Battle of 105 Butajira 137 baboons 273 Abuna Samuel 251 Afar people 184, 246-7 Dilla stelae fields 153 Bahir Dar 67-72, 68 Abuna Yemata Guh 109 Afewerk Tekle’s Home & Dungur (Queen of Bale Mountains 13, 146-52 Studio 40 Abyssinian lions 54 Sheba’s) Palace 101 Bale Mountains National Africa Hall 41 accommodation 20, 280-1, Hadar 185 Park 147-52, 148 see also individual African Quarter Melka Kunture 137 Banana Art Gallery 140-1 locations (Djibouti City) 308 Yeha 113 Bankoualé 319-20 Djibouti 325 AIDS 301 architecture 258-9 Banna people 168 language 332 air travel 290-1, 293-4, Adare houses 195 bathrooms 287, 327 328-9, 294 activities 18-20, see also Bati 131 individual activities to/from Djibouti 328-9 Dorze huts 161 Battle of Adwa 105 Adaitu 184 to/from Ethiopia 290-1 Koremi 200 beaches 139, 308, 322 Adadi Maryam 137 within Ethiopia 293-4 Ardo 319 Arfaide 163 Bebeka Coffee Adare houses 195 airlines 290 Plantation 210 area codes 17 Addis Ababa 15, 30-62, Aksum 93-106, 94-5, 97, Bechu 209 , , , , Ari people 168 31 34-5 38-9 44 19, 244 Bedele 208 46-7, 15 Aksum stelae fields 98-9 Ark of the Covenant 75, 94-5, 203, 229, 260 Bedele Beer Factory 208 accommodation 30, Aksumite architecture 258 Ark of the Covenant Chapel beer 208, 268, 325 43-50 Aksumite coins 100 94-5 begging 110 activities 42 Aksumite kingdom 226-7 Arkwasiye 91 Belai the Cannibal 251 climate 30 Alatash National Park 85 courses 42 art galleries, see museums Bet Abba Libanos 124-6 Ambikwa 90-1 & galleries drinking & nightlife 54-6 Bet Amanuel 124 Ambo 203-6 Arthur Rimbaud Center 193 entertainment 56-7 Bet Danaghel 123 Amda Seyon 233 arts 51, 254-8, 324 festivals & events 42-3 Bet Gabriel-Rufael 124 Amhara people 245-6 Asaita 186 food 30, 50-3 Bet Giyorgis 121 Amharic language 331-8 Ashawa Market 187 Bet Golgotha 123 highlights 31, 31 amoebic dysentery 303 Ashetan Maryam 125 Bet Medhane Alem 121-2 history 32 Amora Gedel Park 143 asmat 252 Bet Merkorios 124 information 58-9 Animal Market (Aksum) 102 Atatami Mikael Church Bet Meskel 123 animals 18, 273-6, see also 79-97 Bet Mikael 123 individual animals ATMs 283, 326 Bet Uraiel 124 antelope migration 21 Map Pages 000 Atsbi Cluster 112 Bete Giorgis 73-4 Anuak Market 217-18 Photo Pages 000 Awasa 142-5, 143 Bete Maryam 73 342 Bete Maryam budgeting 17 Bet Mikael 123 Washa Mikael Church Mausoleum 37-40 bull-jumping ceremony Bet Uraiel 124 36-7 Bete Mikael Church 187 21, 172 Bete Maryam Wukro Cherkos 111 Bete Selassie 74 business hours 17, 284, 327 Mausoleum 37-40 Yemrehanna Kristos 125 bicycle travel 294, see also bus travel 295 Bete Mikael Church 187 Yohannes Maequdi 110 cycling business hours 17, 284, 327 Bilbila Chirkos 125 Church of Abuna Aftse 113
INDEX INDEX Bilbila Chirkos 125 Busso 163 Bilbila Giyorgis 125 Church of Debre Sina 85 Bilbila Giyorgis 125 Butajira 136, 137 Church of Abuna Aftse Cimetière Marin 322 birds 274 Buyit Ras 90 113 cinema 222
B-D flamingos 140, 179, Church of Debre Sina 85 civil disturbances 285 315, 318 Daniel Korkor 109-10 climate 16, 21-2 birdwatching 18, 22, 138, C Debre Berhan Selassie calendar, Ethiopian 287 coffee 214, 267 155, 273, 275, 277 77-8, 11 camping 280 Coffee Plantation 210 Abiata-Shala Lakes Djibouti cathedral 308 National Park Canyon, the 309 coins, Aksumite 100 Dugem Selassie 110 Awash National Park car travel 296-7, 329 conservation 85 Église Éthiopienne 182-3 consulates 281-2, 326 cathedrals, see churches & Orthodoxe Tewahido cooking courses 80, 127 Bale Mountains National cathedrals St Gabriel du Soleil Park 147-52 castles 308-9 Coptic calendar 287 Boye Dam 212 Royal Enclosure 78-9 Entoto Maryam Church costs 17, 280-1, 314, 325 Decan 315 cave art 190 61 courses Gibe Sheleko National caves Gebriel Wukien 112-14 cooking 80, 127 Park 218 Goda-Ajawa 190 Geneta Maryam 126 dance 42 Lake Ziway 138 Grotte de la Chauve- Greek Orthodox Church language 42 Simien Mountains Souris 319 187 crafts 324 National Park 86-93 Hyena Den 182 Holy Trinity Cathedral 37 credit cards 284, 326 Yabelo Wildlife Lega-Oda 190 Kidane Mehret Church crocodiles 156, 160 Sanctuary 155 Porc-Epic 190 41 culture 18-19, 20, 245- Birgida Maryam 85 Sof Omar Cave 151 Lalibela churches 9, 59, 324 Bishoftu 179-81, 180 cell phones 16, 327 120-30, 228, 8 currency 16, biting insects 304 chat 191, 266, 316, 324 Maryam Korkor 109 current affairs 222-3, black market 283 Cheila 113 Maryam Papaseit 110 283-4, 326 Blue Nile Bridge 67 Chenek 90 Medhane Alem customs regulations Blue Nile Falls 81 Cathedral 195 281, 325 Chief Kalla Gezahegn’s Blue Nile Gorge 67 home 163 Medhane Alem Church cycling 294, 329 218 Blue Nile River 82 children, travel with 325 Medhane Alem Kesho 111 boat travel 295, 329 Christianity 227, 250-2 D boat trips Mekina Medane Alem churches & cathedrals 37- 126 Daasanach people 168 Blue Nile Outlet 72 40, 114, 8, 11, 12, 244 Meqaber Ga’ewa 111 Dallol 119, 15 Lake Ziway 138 Abba Yohanni 112 Mikael Barka 112 Danakil Depression 15, books 222, 238 Abraha We Atsbeha 111 119-20, Mikael Debre Selam 112 15 Borana National Park – Abuna Abraham 109 dance 42, 256 Mikael Imba 112 Yabelo Wildlife Abuna Aregawi church dangers & annoyances, Mikael Milhaizengi 111-12 Sanctuary 155 106 see safe travel Na’akuto La‘ab 125-6 border crossings 291-3, Abuna Gebre Mikael 110 Daniel Korkor 109-10 329 New Church of St Mary Abuna Yemata Guh 109 Debre Berhan Selassie Djibouti 291 of Zion 95-6 Arabtu Ensessa Church 77-8, 11 Old Church of St Mary of Eritrea 291-2 96 Zion 96 Debre Damo 106, 261 Kenya 292 Arbatu Ensessa 125 Petros We Paulos 111 Debre Libanos 66-7 Somaliland 292-3 Ark of the Covenant Portuguese Cathedral 86 Debre Markos 132 South Sudan 293 Chapel 94-5 rock-hewn churches Debre Maryam 75 Sudan 293 Bet Abba Libanos 124-6 of Tigray 12, 107-16, Debre Zeyit 179-81, 180 Borena wells 156 Bet Amanuel 124 108, 12 Decan 315 Boye Dam 212 Bet Danaghel 123 St George Cathedral & Dega Estefanos 75 Bridge of God 156, 159 Bet Gabriel-Rufael 124 Museum 36 Dekatu 163 Bruce, James 82 Bet Giyorgis 121 St Maryam Church 203 dengue fever 300 Bet Golgotha 123 St Mary Catholic Church Derg monument 40 Bet Medhane Alem 121-2 195 Derg, the 238-44 Map Pages 000 Bet Merkorios 124 St Mary of Zion Desalegn, Hailemariam 222 Photo Pages 000 Bet Meskel 123 Churches Complex 94 Dessie 130-1 343 diarrhoea 303 Dungur (Queen of Sheba’s) Ethiopian Wildlife Conser- galleries, see museum & Didesa Wildlife Sanctuary Palace 101 vation Authority 85 galleries 210 dysentery 303 Ethiopian wolf 149, 13 Gambela 215-20, 216 Dilla 153-4 ethnic groups 20, 168-9, Gambela National Park 220 Dilla stelae fields 153 219, 245-7, 324, 12, see Gamole 163 E also individual peoples Dimeka 173 Eastern Ethiopia 177-201, Garima Gospels 253
Ethnological Museum 32-3 INDEX Dire Dawa 187-91, 188 178 gay travellers 282, 326 etiquette 249, 268 disabilities, travellers with accommodation 177 Gebre Kristos 252 European Quarter 287, 328 climate 177 Gebre Manfus Kiddus 252 (Djibouti City) 308 Dittilou 320 food 177 Gebre Meskel’s tomb 101 H - -D events, see festivals & diving 309-11 Gebriel Wukien 112-14 highlights 178, 178 events Djibouti 306-30, 307 Gecha 209 economy 222-3 exchange rates 17 accommodation 306 Église Éthiopienne Geech 89-90 arts 324 Orthodoxe Tewahido St gelada monkey 273 basics 16-17 Gabriel du Soleil 308-9 F Geneta Maryam 126 border crossings 329 El Sod 154 Falasha people 247 geography 87, 272 climate 306 electricity 281, 326 Fallana Gate Market 192 geology 20, 87 costs 309 elephants 200, 220, 273 famine 243 Gersale 163 culture 324 embassies 281-2, 326 Fantale Crater 181-2 Gesergio 163 drinks 325 emergencies 17 faranji frenzy 285-6 Gewane 184 economy 323 language 333-4 Fasha 163 Gheralta Cluster 109-10 environment 325 Emir Nur’s Tomb 195-6 Fasika 22 Gibe III Dam 276-8 food 306, 325 Emperor Haile Selassie Fasiladas’ Bath 79-80 Gibe Sheleko National highlights 307, 307 142, 235, 260, 262 Fasiladas’ Palace 78-9, 262 Park 218 history 323-4 Emperor Menelik 45, 233-4 Feres Magala 193 glossary 338 language 309 Emperor Tewodros 231-2 Festival of Maryam Zion Gobodura Hill 100 politics 323 Emperor Yohannes 232-3 22, 102 Goda Mountains 319 travel to/from 328-9 Empress Mentewab’s festivals & events 21-2 Goda-Ajawa 190 travel within 329-30 Kuskuam Complex 79 Aksum 102 Gonder 10, 75-85, 76 visas 309, 328 Entoto Maryam Church 61 bull-jumping ceremony Gonder architecture 259 21, 172 Djibouti cathedral 308 Entoto Mountains 61 Gore 209 Fasika 22 Djibouti City 308-18, Entoto Panoramic Gorgora 85-6 Viewpoint 40 Festival of Maryam Zion 310, 312 Grand Barra 318 environment 272-8 22, 102 accommodation 308, Grat Be’al Gebri 113 Djibouti 325 Leddet 21, 42-3 311-13 Great Ethiopian Run 22, 43 environmental issues 275-8 meskel 22 activities 309-11 Great Stele 99 Eostateos 252 Timkat 12, 21, 81, 102, beaches 308 Greek Orthodox Church 13, 261 drinking & nightlife Equestrian Saints 252 187 films 222 316-17 Erer Gate Market 192 Grotte de la Chauve-Souris food 308, 313-16 Eritrea 241, 291 Filwoha Hot Springs 181 319 information 317 Ethiopia flamingos 140, 179, 315, Guder 206-7 318 sights 308 accommodation 280-1 Gudit Stelae Field 98 flora 278 tours 311 Addis Ababa 30-62 Gurage people 246 food 14, 264-71, 325, 14, travel to/from 317-18 basics 16-17 gursha 268 see also individual travel within 318 border crossings 291-3 locations Djibouti Road 184-6 Eastern Ethiopia 177-201 cooking courses 80, 127 Dodola 146-7, 146 emergencies 17 H Djibouti 325 Hadar 185 Dokatu Market 162 history 222-44 etiquette 268 Haile Selassie, Emperor Dola-Mena 152 language 331-8 glossary 270-1 142, 235, 260 262 Dola-Mena Road 149 Northern Ethiopia 63-132 language 333 hairstyles 250 Dorze 161-2 Southern Ethiopia 133-76 foreign relations 223 Hamer people 168 drinks 267-71, 325 travel to/from 17, 290-3 Forêt du Day 320-3 Harar 10, 191-200, travel within 17, 293-8 beer 208, 268, 325 Forty Springs 160-1 192-3, 10 visas 288-9 coffee 214, 267 frogs 276 Harar Brewery 196 Western Ethiopia tej 267-8 Harar National Museum driving, see car travel Ethiopia-Djibouti Rail 195 Yard 187 driving licence 296 G Harari people 247 Ethiopia-Eritrea War 241 Gabriel, Saint 252 drugs 283 Harla 191 Ethiopian saints 250-4 Galila 85 Dugem Selassie 110 hartebeests 141 344 Hayzo 161 recent history 242-4 Jijiga 201 Lake Awasa 142 health 299-304 road to Democracy Jimma 211-14, 212 Lake Babogaya 179 Djibouti 302, 330 (1991-95) 241 Jimma Museum 212 Lake Bishoftu 179 Ethiopia 300-4 socialist experiment Jinbar Waterfall 88 Lake Chamo 156, 26 239-40 heat exhaustion 303, 330 Jinka 166-70 Lake Chelekleka 179 hitching 297, 329-30 heatstroke 303-4 John, Prester 128 Lake Chew Bet 154
INDEX INDEX HIV/AIDS 301 hepatitis 300-1 jogging 42 Lake Chitu 140 holidays 285, 327 hiking 20 Juma’a Mosque 187 Lake Gumare 186 Holy Trinity Cathedral 37 Bale Mountains National Lake Hare Sheitan 136
H- Hosaina 136-7 Park 149-50 Lake Hora 179
M hot springs K Djibouti 319, 320 Lake Kuriftu 179 Abiata-Shala Lakes Kafa Biosphere Reserve Dodola 146-7, 146 Lake Langano 139 National Park 140 214-15 Lalibela 126 Lake Tana 72-5, Filwoha Hot Springs 181 Kafa Coffee Museum 215 73 Menagesha National Kafira Market 187 Lake Wenchi 206 Forest 217 Lac Abbé 318 Kangaten 173-4 Lake Ziway 138-9 Menz-Guassa Commu- Lake Afdera 119 Lalibela 9, 120-30, 228, nity Conservation Mt Wenchi 206 Karo people 168-9 9 Area 132 Wondo Genet 140 Kassahun, Tewodros 254, Lalibela Cultural Center 255 126 Simien Mountains 88-91 hotels 280 Kebra Negast 256 Land of Punt 225 Tigray 113-14 Hyena Den 182 Kebran Gabriel 75 languages history 18-19, 222-3, hyena feeding 196, 198 Kenya Amharic 331-8 224-44 hyenas 198 1974 revolution & the travel to/from 291-2 courses 42 Emperor’s fall 238-9 visas 288 Djibouti 334 L’Arthur Rimbaud 309 Addis Ababa 32 I Key Afar 170 Aksum 93, 96 illuminated manuscripts Kibish 175 Leddet 21, 42 coming of Christianity 255 Kidane Mehret Church 41 legal matters 283, 326 227 Îlot du Héron 308 Kiddus Yohannes 22 Lega-Oda 190 coming of Islam & the Imet Gogo 90-1 King Ezana’s Inscription Lephis 145-6 demise of Aksum 227 immigration 288, 290, 328 100-1 leptospirosis 301 cradle of humanity 224 injera 264-5 King Ezana’s Stelae 99 Les Allols 320 demise of the Derg 240 insect bits & stings 304 King Gebre Meskel’s lesbian travellers 282, 326 Djibouti 323-4 tomb 101 Institute of Ethiopian L’Escale 308 Emperor Haile Selassie Studies 40 King Kaleb’s tomb 101 LGBTI travellers 282, 326 142, 235, 260, 262 insurance 282-3, 326 King Solomon’s Gold 211 Lion of Judah Emperor Menelik 233-4 health 299 kitfo 265-6 Monument 37 Emperor Tewodros 231-2 vehicle 296 Kolcho 173-4 Lioness of Gobodura 100 Emperor Yohannes 232-3 internet access 283, 326 Komaya Heart of Konso lions 54, 85 Cultural Handicraft Ethiopia-Eritrea War 241 internet resources 17 literature 222, 238, 256-7 Market 162 Ethiopian Middle Ages health 299-300 Logiya 185 228 Kombolcha 131 Irecha 22 Lower Omo Valley 164-74, Italian occupation 235-7 Konso 162-3, 19 Irta’ale Volcano 119 165, 12 Iyasu 234 Konso Kantas 163-6 Islam 227, 253 Lucy 33, 224, 240 Kingdom of Aksum 226-7 Konso Museum 162 Italian Fort 218 Lalibela & the Zagwe Korbete Metia 90 Italian occupation 235-7 Dynasty 228 Koremi 200 M Itang 217 Machekie 163 Land of Punt 225 Kosoye 86 itineraries 23-6 Mago National Park 170 Oromo migrations & the Kulubi 191 Ethiopia & Djibouti’s Majang people 219 Jesuits 230 Kulubi Gabriel 22 Grand Tour 23, 23 Malaria 301-3 postliberation Ethiopia Kumsa Moroda Palace 207 237 historical circuit 25, 25 Mandaba Medhane pre-Aksumite southern Ethiopia 24, 24 Alem 85 civilisation 225 wild west 25, 25 L maps 283, 326 Ras Tafari 234-5 Iyasu 234 La Faon 309 markets rise & fall of Gonder Lac Abbé 10, 318-19, 11 Addis Ababa 40 230-1 Lac Assal 14, 318, 14 Animal Market (Aksum) Lake Abaya 156, 26 102 J Anuak Market 217-18 Jamia Mosque 194 Lake Afambo 186 Ashawa Market 187 Map Pages 000 Jan Meda Sports Ground Lake Afdera 119 Photo Pages 000 42 Lake Asale 119 Babille Market 200 345 Bahir Dar main Menelik, Emperor 45, Martyrs’ Memorial 116 St Mary of Zion Church market 67 233-4 Martyrs Memorial Museum 100 Basket Market (Aksum) Mengistu 239-40 Monument 67 Wolega Museum 207 101 Menz-Guassa Community Mussolini’s Stele 86 Wukro Museum 111 Chattara Market (Dire Conservation Area 131-2 Ras Makonnen Statue Yohannes IV Museum 116 Dawa) 187 Meqaber Ga’ewa 111 194 Zeghie Satekela
Chencha Market (Dorze) Meskel 22 Sidamo Monument 143 Museum 73 INDEX 162 Metu 208-9 Tombs of Kings Kaleb & music 254-5 Crocodile Market Metu to Tepi scenic drive Gebre Meskel 101 Mussolini’s Stele 86 (Nechisar) 160 209 Yekatit 12 Monument 41 M-N- Dire Dawa Market 187 Mikael 252 mosques 253 Dokatu Market 162
Mikael Barka 112 Hamoudi Mosque 308 N Erer Gate Market (Harar) Mikael cemetery 196 Jamia Mosque 194 Na’akuto La‘ab 125 192 Mikael Debre Selam 112 Juma’a Mosque 187 Nagfa 309 Fallana Gate Market Narga Selassie 74 (Harar) 192 Mikael Imba 112 mosquitoes 301-3, 304 National Archives & Library fish market (Awasa) 142 Mikael Meka’e 111 motorcycle travel 296- 7, 329 of Ethiopia 41 Gidir Magala (Harar) 194 Mikael Milhaizengi 111-12 Moyale 155-6 National Museum 33-6 Harar 192-3 Mille 185 Mt Bwahit 90 national parks & reserves Jinka market 166 minibuses 297 Mitsele Fasiladas 75 Mt Wenchi 206 275, 277, see also Kafira Market wildlife sanctuaries (Dire Dawa) 187 Mizan Tefari 210-11 multiculturalism 249-50 Mursi people 169 Abiata-Shala Lakes Kidame Gebya Saturday mobbing 285-6 National Park 139-40, museums & galleries Market 79 mobile phones 16, 327 140 Addis Ababa Museum 41 Lower Omo Valley 171 monasteries 72-5 Awash National Park main market (Aksum) Abba Garima 107 Afewerk Tekle’s Home & 181-4, 182 Studio 40 101 Abba Liqanos 102 Babille Elephant Merkato (Addis Ababa) Abba Pentalewon 96 Archaeological Museum Sanctuary 200 (Aksum) 101-2 41 Ashetan Maryam 125 Bale Mountains National Arthur Rimbaud Center Monday Market (Bati) Azuwa Maryam 74 Park 147-52, 148 131 193 Bete Giorgis 73-4 Borana National Park Recycling Market (Harar) Atatami Mikael Church Bete Maryam 73 - Yabelo Wildlife 192 79 Sanctuary 155 Bete Selassie 74 Shiro Meda Market Banana Art Gallery 140-1 Decan 315 Birgida Maryam 85 (Addis Ababa) 58 Entoto Maryam Didesa Wildlife Shoa Gate Market Debre Damo 106, 261 Museum 61 Sanctuary 210 (Harar) 192, 10 Debre Libanos Ethiopia-Djibouti Rail Gambela National Park Smugglers’ Market Monastery 66 Yard 187 220 (Harar) 192 Debre Maryam 75 Ethnological Museum Gibe Sheleko National Martyrs’ Memorial 116 Dega Estefanos 75 32-3 Park 218 Mary 252 Galila 85 Harar National Museum Kafa Biosphere Reserve 195 Maryam Korkor 109 Kebran Gabriel 75 214-15 Jimma Museum 212 Maryam Papaseit 110 Mandaba Medhane Mago National Park 170 Kafa Coffee Museum 215 Maryam Zion festival Alem 85 Nechisar National Park 22, 102 Mitsele Fasiladas 75 Konso Cultural Centre 61-159, 160, 26 162 masenkos 257 Monastery of Abba Omo National Park 175-6 Konso Museum 162 Masha 209 Garima 107 Senkelle Swayne’s Harte- Lalibela Cultural Center measures 282, 326 Narga Selassie 74 beest Sanctuary 141 126 Medhane Alem Tana Cherkos 75 Simien Mountains National Museum 33-6 Cathedral 195 Tekla Haimanot 74 National Park 86-93, Natural History Medhane Alem Church 218 Ura Kidane Meret 72-3 88-9 Museum 41 Medhane Alem Kesho 111 Monastery of Abba Garima Natural History Museum 41 Ras Gimb 79 media 253-4, 282 107 Nechisar National Park Ras Tafari’s House & 159-61, , medical services 300 money 17, 283-4, 326 160 26 Sherif Harar City Nechisar Plain 160 Mehelela 102 monuments Museum 194-5 Nekemte 207-8, 208 Mekele 116-19, 117 Derg Monument 40 ’Red Terror’ Martyrs New Church of St Mary of Mekina Girgir 194 King Ezana’s Inscription Memorial Museum 32 100-1 Zion 95-6 Mekina Medane Alem 126 South-Omo Museum & Lion of Judah Monu- newspapers 282, 326 Melka Kunture 137 Research Centre 166 ment 37 Nine Saints 109 Menagesha National St George Cathedral & Lioness of Gobodura 100 Forest 217 Museum 36 346 Northern Ethiopia 63-132, Ethiopia’s regions 27-8 Tigray 12, 107-16, highlights 134, 134-5 64-5 highlights 8-15 108, 12 travel to/from 136 accommodation 63 internet resources 17 rock-hewn architecture travel within 136 climate 63 itineraries 23-6 258 South-Omo Museum & food 63 language 16 rock-hewn churches of Research Centre 166 Tigray 12, 107-16, highlights 64-5, 64-5 telephone 16 Southwest Omo Valley ,
INDEX INDEX 108 12 travel to/from 66 travel seasons 16 174-6 Atsibi Cluster 112 travel within 66 visas 16 spas 42 Gheralta Cluster 109-10 Northern Stelae Field plants 278 stelae 96-100, 137, 153, 19 Takatisfi Cluster 111-12 & N -T -N 96-100 Plateau du Serpent 308 St George Cathedral- Tembien Cluster 112 Museum 36 Nuer people 219 poetry 197, 257 Wukro Cluster 110-11 St Mary Catholic Church Nyangatom people 169 politics 222-3 Rome Stele 99 195 population 223 Royal Enclosure 78-9, 78 St Mary of Zion Churches O Porc-Epic 190 Complex 94 Obock 322-3 Portuguese Bridge 66 St Mary of Zion Church Old Church of St Mary of Portuguese Cathedral 86 S Museum 100 Zion 96 postal services 285, 327 safe travel 58, 285-6, 327 St Maryam Church 203 Omo National Park 175-6 prehistoric sites 224 Said Ali Hamdogn’s tomb street kids 247 195 Omo Valley 164-76 Prester John 128 Surmi people 169, 26 saints, Ethiopian 190, Omorate 174 Prince Ruspoli’s turaco 275 Susenyos’ Old Palace 85 250-2 opening hours 17, 284, 327 public holidays 285, 327 swimming 42 salt mining 120 Ophir 211 Sankaber 90-1 Oromo people 245 Q scams 59, 286 T Queen of Sheba 226, scarification 174 Ta’akha Maryam 102 248, 260 P Sebeta 217 Tadjoura 321-2 Queen of Sheba’s Bath 102 painting 257-8 Selassie, Emperor Haile Takatisfi Cluster 111-12 palaces Queen of Sheba’s Palace 142, 235, 260, 262 Tana Cherkos 75 (Dungur) 101 Empress Mentewab’s Semera 185 tape worms 304 Queen Taitu’s Palace 193 Kuskuam Complex 79 Senkelle Swayne’s taxis 297-8 Fasiladas’ Palace Hartebeest Teddy Yo 254 Sanctuary 141 78-9, 262 R tej 267-8 Seyon, Amda 233 Kumsa Moroda Palace rabies 303 tej bets 55 207 Shashemene 140-2 radio 282 Tekla Haimanot 74, 252 Old Palace (Dire Dawa) Sheba, Queen of 226, Raphael 252 Tekle, Afewerk 51 187 248, 260 Ras Bir Lighthouse 322 telephone services 286, Palace of Abba Jiffar Sherif Harar City Museum Ras Dashen 90-1, 91-2 327 211-12 194-5 Ras Gimb 79 Tembien Cluster 112 Palace of Iyasu I 79 shiftas 286 Ras Makonnen Statue 194 Tepi 209-10 Ras Makonnen’s Palace Shoa Gate Market 192 Ras Makonnen’s Palace 195 tere sega 266 195 Sidama people 246 Ras Tafari 142, 234, 234-5, Tewodros, Emperor 231-2 Susenyos’ Old Palace 85 Sidamo Monument 143 see also Emperor Haile Pankhurst, Sylvia 37 theft 286 Selassie Simien Mountains National parks & gardens Tigrayan people 246 Ras Tafari’s House & Sherif Park 9, 86-93, 88-9, 9 Tigray region 107-16, 108 Addis Ababa Park 42 Harar City Museum singing wells 156 Petit Barra 318 194-5 slave trade 213 Tigrayan rock-hewn churches 12, 107-16, Petros We Paulos 111 Rastafarian Community Smugglers’ Market 192 108, 12 photography 284-5 140 snake bites 304 time 286-7, 327 Pioneers Vision 166 recycling market 192 snorkelling 309 language 336 Plage des Sables Red Terror 240 socialism 239-40 Timkat 12, 21, 81, 102, Blancs 321 Red Terror Martyrs Sodo 137 , planning Memorial Museum 32 13 261 Sof Omar Cave 151 tipping 284 budgeting 17, 314 religion 223, 250-3 Somali people 246 Tis Abay 81 calendar of events 21-22 Rift Valley lakes 138-45 Solomon, King 211 Tiya stelae field 137 climate 16 Rimbaud, Arthur 193, 197 Sor River Waterfalls 209 toilets 287, 327 emergencies 17 road rules 297 Southern Ethiopia 133-76, rock art sites Tomb of Nefas Mawcha 134-5 99-100 Abourma rock art site accommodation 133 Map Pages 000 322 Tomb of Said Ali Hamdogn climate 133 Photo Pages 000 195 Lalibela 9, 120-30, 228, 9 food 133 347 Tomb of Sheikh Abadir 195 V accommodation 202 women in Ethiopia 249 Tomb of the Brick Arches vacations 285, 327 climate 202 women travellers 289 97-100 vaccinations 300-1 food 202 Wondo Genet 140 Tomb of the False Door 97 Valley of Marvels 200 highlights 204-5, 204-5 work 328 Tombant Point 309 vegans & vegetarians 269, travel to/from 203 Wukro Cherkos 111 Tombs of Kings Kaleb & 269-70 travel within 203 Wukro Cluster 110-11
Gebre Meskel 101 INDEX visas 288-9, 290, 328 Weyto 174 Wukro Museum 111 tourist information 287, volcanoes whale-shark spotting 14, Wunenia 86 327 Danakil Depression 15, 22, 309-11, 14 tours 298, 330 wildlife 18, 85, 87, 272-4, T-Z 15 ,119-20 language 336 see also individual Y Fantale Crater 181-2 Yabelo 154-5 traditional beliefs 253 Irta’ale Volcano 119 animals train travel 298, 330 hyenas 196, 198 Yabelo Wildlife volunteering 42, 80, 289, Sanctuary 155 transport 17, 290-8 328 wolves (Ethiopian) Yared 252 Djibouti 328-30 149, 13 language 336-8 wildlife sanctuaries 275, Yeha 113 travel seasons 21-2 W 277, see also national Yekatit 12 Monument 41 walking, see hiking travel to/from Ethiopia parks & reserves yellow fever 303 290, 290-3 Washa Mikael Church 36-7 Babille Elephant Yo, Teddy 254 travel within Ethiopia 293-8 wat 266-7 Sanctuary 200 Yohannes, Emperor 232-3 trekking, see hiking water 304 Decan 315 Yohannes IV Museum 116 Tsemay people 169 waterfalls Didesa Wildlife Yohannes Maequdi 110 Sanctuary 210 Tullu Gudo 138 Awash Falls 182 Senkelle Swayne’s turaco 275 Blue Nile Falls 81 Guder Falls 207 Hartebeest Z Turmi 171-2 Sanctuary 141 Zagwe dynasty 228 Jinbar Waterfall 88 Tuto Fela 153 Yabelo Wildlife Zege Peninsula 72-4 Sor River Waterfalls 209 Tutiti 153 Sanctuary 155 Zeghie Satekela Museum weather 16, 21-2 TV 282, 326 wildlife watching 18 73 websites 17 Babille Elephant Zobel’s Mausoleum 80 health 299-300 Sanctuary 200 U weights 282, 326 Wolega Museum 207 Ura Kidane Meret 72-3 Weliso 214 wolf (Ethiopian) 149, 13 Western Ethiopia 202-20, Wolleka (Falasha Village) 204-5 80 348 NOTES NOTES - 349 NOTES 350 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 351
Map Legend
Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide,Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Jean-Bernard Carillet Southern Ethiopia, Eastern Ethiopia, Djibouti Jean-Bernard is a Paris-based freelance writer and photographer who special- ises in Africa, France, Turkey, the Indian Ocean, the Caribbean and the Pacific. He loves adventure, remote places, islands, outdoors, archaeological sites and food. His insatiable wanderlust has taken him to 114 countries across six conti- nents, and it shows no sign of waning. It has inspired lots of articles and photos for travel magazines and some 70 Lonely Planet guidebooks, both in English and in French. One of his favourite continents is Africa, which he has travelled the length and breadth of for more two decades and been thoroughly enlightened by 24 of its amazing countries. Jean-Bernard also researched the Understand Ethiopia section.
Anthony Ham Addis Ababa, Northern Ethiopia, Western Ethiopia Anthony is a freelance writer and photographer who specialises in Spain, East and Southern Africa, the Arctic and the Middle East. When he’s not writing for Lonely Planet, Anthony writes about and photographs Spain, Africa and the Middle East for newspapers and magazines in Australia, the UK and US. In 2001, after years of wandering the world, Anthony finally found his spiritual home when he fell irretrievably in love with Madrid onhis first visit to the city. Less than a year later, he arrived there on a one-way ticket, with not a word of Spanish and not knowing a single person in the city. When he finally left Madrid 10 years later, Anthony spoke Spanish with a Madrid accent, was married to a local and Madrid had be- come his second home. Now back in Australia, he continues to travel the world in search of stories. Anthony also researched the Plan Your Trip, Survival Guide and Health sections.
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