An Archaeological Survey of Part of Garvan, Conaglen Estate Lochaber, Highland

An Archaeological Survey of Part of Garvan, Conaglen Estate Lochaber, Highland.

For Hydroplan UK

March 2008

Jennifer G. Robertson MA PhD FSA Scot. MIFA

Garden Cottage, Ardtornish Estate, Morvern, By Oban, Argyll, PA34 5UZ. Tel. 01967 421234. E-Mail [email protected] 1. Summary. Eleven archaeological sites were recorded during a desk-based and walkover survey of an area in Garvan, part of Conaglen Estate. All are associated with the probably post-medieval, agricultural activities of North and South Garvan and Duisky farms.

The structure, Site 2, the sheepfold, Site 4, and the house, Site 7, should be protected from damage but the path, Site 1, the walls, Sites 3, 9 and 11 and the enclosure, Site 5, can probably sustain some minor damage while still being preserved as features in the agricultural landscape. Existing breaches in the walls should be used. However, the possibility of buried settlement remains, pertaining to the early phases of South Garvan, means that a watching brief during any excavation works at Sites 6 and 7 would be desirable. The farmstead, Site 8 and sheepfold, Site 10, are not at risk.

2. Introduction. An archaeological survey was undertaken on behalf of Hydroplan UK, in an area of Conaglen Estate, Lochaber, Highland (OS 1:10,000 Sheets NM97NE, NM97SE and NN07NW) prior to the proposed construction of a hydro scheme. (See Fig. 1: Location Map) The area is situated in the district of Ardgour, on the edge of Conaglen Estate, on the southern shore of Loch Eil.

The survey area consists of strips of land along the routes of the proposed pipelines leading from the powerhouse at the confluence of the North and South Garvan Rivers and from the powerhouse on the An Dubh Uisge: a) a pipeline runs from the Garven powerhouse along the NW bank of the North Garvan River up to Intake 1 and a storage pond at NN 9693 7564. b) a pipeline runs from the Garvan powerhouse to the SE to the river, Allt Dubhaig.

JG Robertson. Ardtornish. March 2008. 1 c) an alternative pipeline curves to the SE and then SW from a) to Intake 11 at An Slochd on the Allt an t-Sluichd. d) a further alternative pipeline runs from Intake 11 northeastwards to the SE end of pipeline b) on the Allt Dubhaig via Intakes 18, 17, 16, 14 and 15. e) a pipeline runs from the Duisky powerhouse along the south side of the river, An Dubh Uisge to Intakes 6 and 7. f) a subsidiary pipeline runs along the NE side of the tributary, Allt Doire Mhear into pipeline e).

These strips lie on a bed of Moinian schists and rise in height from 20m OD to a maximum of 130m OD. Most of the strips are covered in dense coniferous forest, so that much of the survey had to be restricted to desk-based research.

3. Working Methods. The survey consisted of desk-based research followed by a programme of targeted fieldwork.

3.1 A preliminary phase of desk-based research assessed the potential for archaeology in the three areas. The sources consulted included:

3.1.1 Sites and Monuments Registers. The Sites and Monuments Register (SMR), held by the Highland Council Archaeology Unit, Planning and Development Service, Glenurquhart Road, Inverness IV3 5NX. The National Monuments Record of Scotland (NMRS), held by RCAHMS, John Sinclair House, 16 Bernard Terrace, Edinburgh EH8 9NX.

The following site had previously been recorded within the survey area: NMRS NM97NE12 (SMR NM97NE0019) Building.

3.1.2 Maps. Roy’s Map of Scotland, 1747-55, Sheet 23. James Dorret: A general map of Scotland and islands thereto belonging, 1750 John Ainslie Scotland 1789. A Map Book of Ardgour Estate drawn by James Wingate, 1813. John Thomson: Atlas of Scotland: Inverness-shire, 1832 OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheets Argyllshire V, VI, X and XI, surveyed 1872, published 1875. OS 2nd Ed. 6” Map Sheet Inverness-shire X. OS 1:10,000 Sheets NM97NE; NM97SE; NN07NW. OS 1:25,000 Explorer 391 Ardgour and Strontian, 2002.

3.1.3 Archives. Highland Archives: Maclean of Ardgour Papers, NRA(S)/3583.

3.1.4 Aerial Photographs. Aerial photographs, held by the Air Photo Unit, RCAHMS, Edinburgh, were consulted. 541/A/544 Frames 3172 – 3177, 4172 – 4177, 4283 – 4281; Date 12.6.50; Scale 1:10,000.

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3.1.5 Published Sources. The following contained information relevant to the survey area: Fraser, Rev. Alexander: “Parish of Kilmallie” in The (Old) Statistical Account of Scotland, Vol. XVII Invernessshire, Ross and Cromarty, 1791-8, Edinburgh, 115-155 Gillies, HC: The Place Names of Argyll, 1906, London. MacCulloch, Donald B.: Romantic Lochaber Arisaig and Morar, 1996. (1st Ed. 1939) McGillivray, Rev. Donald: “Parish of Kilmallie” in The New Statistical Account of Scotland, 1845, 117-127 MacLean, Rev. A.D.: “The Parish of Ardgour” in The Third Statistical Account of Scotland, The County of Argyll, 1961.

3.2 Fieldwork. A walkover survey of the area was undertaken by the writer on 23rd and 24th October 2006 in mostly dry weather conditions. The survey was hampered by the vegetation, consisting of bracken on the lower slopes and long grass on the higher ground, which had not yet died down for the winter. Further walkover survey was carried out in the Duisky area on 7th March 2008 in wet weather conditions. Much of the survey area is covered in impenetrable coniferous forest and walkover survey was restricted to open ground.

Archaeological sites, previously identified from desk-based research, were sought and the routes of the pipelines investigated. All the archaeological sites were recorded, measured and photographed. Their locations were established with a GPS receiver and marked on a map.

4. Historical Background. The survey area currently lies within Conaglen Estate, which was formerly part of the lands of Ardgour, bounded on the W, N and E by Lochs Shiel, Eil and Linnhe respectively. The area has always been remote and isolated as MacCulloch noted:

“Ardgour…. must be one of the least explored regions of Scotland as its only roads, on which there is little traffic, follow its margin and its loch boundaries prevent any arterial road leading to it or through it. Few strangers penetrate the fastnesses of its hinterland and the only mention of these lonely hills and glens are by hill-walkers and mountaineers. Its greater part is so thinly populated and always has been and it is so isolated from main routes that few historical incidents are recorded about it. Perhaps one claim to distinction may be mentioned. It is one of the regions which Mary, Queen of Scots, and her great-great-great grandson, Prince Charlie did not visit. (MacCulloch, 1971, 274-5)

It is notable that any recorded prehistoric remains in the area are all around the periphery, namely the cairn at Duisky on the Loch Eil shore and the cist at Clovullin, cairn at Corran and fort at Loch nan Gobhar all near the Loch Linnhe shore. (RCAHMS, 1980, 56, 62, 54and 90) No certain prehistoric sites were recorded in the present survey.

Neither are there definite remains of Early Christian occupation in the district. Some Norse presence is suggested by the limited place-named evidence. Thus Trislaig is a

JG Robertson. Ardtornish. March 2008. 3 Norse-named bay, while Inverscaddle may derive from scat-dail, meaning “rent dale”. (Gillies, 1906, 82) 1 This place-name along with Eilean nan Gall or “Island of the Strangers” in Inverscaddle Bay may suggest regular contact with the Norsemen or “Strangers”. It is tempting to imagine a party of Norsemen arriving in the bay to collect rents from the subjugated population.

These lands traditionally belonged to the MacMasters, until the latter were driven out by Donald Maclean, son of the third chief of Duart, in about 1432. (MacCulloch, 1971, 17) In 1858, after the death of Alexander, 13th of Ardgour, the northern portion of the estate was sold as Conaglen to the Earl of Morton.

The Garvan survey area was, in the early 19th century and probably earlier, part of North Garvan, South Garvan and South Duisky Farms. Roy’s Map of 1747-55 shows a settlement named Drumfern at the confluence of the North and South Garvan Rivers. (See Fig. 2)

Fig. 2: Roy’s Map, 1747-5 shows Drumfern on the East bank of Garvan River. (Copyright The British Library. Licensor www.scran.ac.uk)

By 1813, settlement had spread to both sides of the river, though the name “Drumfern” referred to a settlement further West. The lower reaches of the South Garvan River formed the boundary between North and South Garvan Farms. On the site of Roy’s “Drumfern” is a row of four crofts, each consisting of two or three buildings, enclosed within a rectangular plot. (See Fig. 3) These are not specifically named but presumably comprise the settlement of South Garvan.

1 Inbhir = “river mouth” (Gaelic)

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Fig. 3: South Garvan crofts, as depicted in the Map Book of Ardgour, 1813. (Loch Eil and the North are at the bottom of the page)

By the late 19th century, houses in this area, still occupied and within rectangular enclosures, form a western extension of South Garvan, centred along the shore of Loch Eil. (See Fig. 4) The remains in this area, recorded in the present survey, Site 7, presumably date to the latter period of occupation, or possibly 1813, rather than 1747.

Fig. 4: Settlement at the confluence of the North and South Garvan Rivers, from OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet Argyllshire X.

No settlement or even arable cultivation was marked in the area to the West of the confluence on Roy’s Map but, by 1813 four buildings and an enclosure had been constructed at “Tor hoilartich”, just North of the tributary, “Alt nailech”. (See Fig. 5) These buildings are no longer extant, although their stones were presumably used in the construction of the sheepfold, Site 4. However, the 1813 enclosure may well equate with the earthen banks, Site 5, recorded in the present survey. By the late 19th century, these enclosures were out of use. (See Fig. 4)

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Fig. 5: Buildings and enclosure at “Tor hoilartich”, North Garvan from Map Book of Ardgour, 1813. (Loch Eil and the North are at the bottom of the page)

On the An Dubh Uisge river, a settlement, known as “Dusker”, was depicted in 1747- 55 and, as “Duiskie”, in 1813 to the North of the survey area. (See Fig. 2) Some arable may have encroached on the survey area though the sites recorded in the present survey, Sites 8 – 11, probably date to later in the 19th century. (See Fig. 6)

Fig. 6: The farmstead, Site 8, enclosed field, Site 9 and sheepfold, Site 10, on the An Dubh Uisge, from an extract from the OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Argyllshire XI, 1875.

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5. Results of the Survey. Seven archaeological sites were recorded, all associated with the probably post- medieval, agricultural activities of North and South Garvan farms.

6. The Gazetteer. 1. Path. NGR (within survey area) S end NM 9620 7333 N end NM 9942 7515 An old track runs SW-NE across the SE part of the survey area, from An Slochd to Allt Dubh Uisg, mostly within the forestry plantation. The SW element follows the route of an old track, marked on the OS 1st Ed. 6” map from Corrlarach in Cona Glen to the shore of Loch Eil at Duisky. A forest track follows the route between Allt Meall an Doire Shleaghaich and An Dubh Uisge but then crosses the latter whereas the original track continued on the NW side of the river. Refs: OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet Argyllshire X, 1875. OS 1:25,000 Explorer map 391, 2002. Mitigation: This path should be preserved as a feature in the landscape.

2. Structure. NGR NM 9693 7656 A small very rudimentary structure, 4.10m NE-SW by 4m and almost square in plan, has been built into a low slope on the NW bank of the North Garvan River. Only the SW and SE walls remain, completely overgrown with bracken. The structure was recorded as an abandoned building in 1872. Refs: NMRS NM97NE 12 SMR NM97NE0019 OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet Argyllshire X, 1875. Mitigation: This structure should be preserved.

3. Wall. NGR (midpoint) NM 9700 7655 An overgrown wall of earth and boulders runs, SW-NE across a small promontory in a loop in the river. Mitigation: This wall should be preserved as a feature in the landscape.

4. Sheepfold. NGR NM 9741 7682 A well-built and well-preserved sheepfold, 42m E-W by 17m, is situated on the North bank of the North Garvan River near its confluence with the South Garvan River. Rectangular in plan, with rounded corners, the sheepfold consists of three unequal compartments. The walls have a pronounced batter, tapering from a width of 0.80m at the base to 0.50m at the top. The East end has been removed. This sheepfold is near the site of an earlier settlement, Site 7, which may well have provided some of the building material. Refs: OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet Argyllshire X, 1875. OS 1:25,000 Explorer 391, 2002. Mitigation: This sheepfold is of some antiquity and should be preserved.

5. Enclosure. NGR (SW corner) NM 9736 7688 A large sub-divided enclosure, 150m SW-NE by 100m, surrounds a knoll (named Tor hoilartich in 1813) on the NW bank of the North Garvan River, near its confluence with the South Garvan River. It is defined by a heavily overgrown bank of earth and stone, 1.20m wide and 0.60m high. It was recorded in 1813, associated with a group

JG Robertson. Ardtornish. March 2008. 7 of houses beside Tor hoilartich. (See Fig. 5) The enclosure and houses were out of use by 1872, when the OS 1st Ed. 6” map was surveyed. Refs: Map Book of Ardgour, 1813. Mitigation: This enclosure should be preserved as a feature in the landscape.

6. Settlement. NGR NM 9755 7685 A settlement is recorded at Tor hoilartich on the 1813 Map Book of Ardgour, associated with the enclosure, Site 5. (See Fig. 5) It is situated on the NW bank of the North Garvan River near its confluence with the South Garvan River. The settlement was presumably long out of use by 1872 and not recorded on the OS 1st ed. 6” Map. No remains were found in the present survey. Refs: Map Book of Ardgour, 1813. Mitigation: This area has already been disturbed by the construction of the sheepfold, Site 4 and of a track. Nevertheless, there may well be buried settlement remains in the vicinity. A watching brief during any excavation work in this area would be desirable.

7. House and wall. NGR NM 9769 7684 A well-built and relatively well-preserved house is situated on the East bank of the North Garvan River, downstream from its confluence with the South Garvan River. It is probably a relatively late feature in the sequence of occupation on this site. The building was still occupied in 1872, part of the settlement of South Garvan on the shore of Loch Eil. However, it is on the site of an earlier settlement, dating to at least 1747 and probably earlier. (See Figs. 2 and 3). Refs: OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet Argyllshire X, 1875. Mitigation: This structure should be preserved. The possibly long history of occupation on this site means that there may be buried settlement remains in the vicinity. A watching brief during any excavation work in this area would be desirable.

8. Farmstead. NGR NN 0129 7679 A farmstead consisting of a house, byre and barn, another structure, stack yard and enclosure, is situated on the East side of the track, which runs along the East side of the An Dubh Uisge River. a) The house at NN 0129 7679 was perhaps relatively recently abandoned and still has a corrugated iron roof. b) The byre/barn at NN 0129 7677 is a fine example with three compartments, four doors and slit windows in the lower storey, a hayloft door and windows in the upper storey. c) A small dilapidated rectangular building at NN 0130 7678 may have been a store. d) A level topped platform between the house and byre may have been a stack yard. e) An enclosure, defined by a low stone wall, is situated on lower ground to the East of the buildings. The farmstead may date to the mid to later 19th century; it is marked on the OS 1st Ed. 6” Map of 1875 but not on the 1813 Map Book of Ardgour. Refs: OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet Argyllshire XI, 1875. Mitigation: This site is not at risk from the present scheme.

JG Robertson. Ardtornish. March 2008. 8 9. Enclosed Field. (centre) NN 0124 7676 A field is situated on level ground on the East side of the An Dubh Uisge, associated with the farmstead, Site 8. It is enclosed by a low stone wall, 0.80m wide and 0.60m high. Refs: OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet XI, 1875. Mitigation: The power house is to be situated within the SW corner of this enclosed field. The West wall is at risk from the construction of the pipeline. The walls should be preserved as a feature in the landscape.

10. Sheepfold. NN 0131 7640 A sheepfold, 29m N-S by 25m, is situated on the east side of a tributary of the An Dubh Usige river. It is divided into five compartments and consists of well-built and well-preserved walls with a pronounced batter, tapering from a width of 0.70m at the base to 0.50m at the top. There is no obvious reuse of earlier structures within its composition. A sheep dip leads from the South wall to a level platform. The sheepfold may date tot eh mid to late 19th century; it is depicted on the OS 1st Ed. 6” Map of 1875 and is approached by a track from the farmstead, Site 8. Refs: OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet XI, 1875. Mitigation: This site is not at risk from the present scheme.

11. Wall. (centre) NM 9937 7502 A wall is depicted on the OS 1st Ed. 6” Map of 1875, running across a shallow loop of the An Dubh Uisge river. The wall, currently under dense forest, was not visited in the field. Refs: OS 1st Ed. 6” Map Sheet XI, 1875. Mitigation: This wall is at risk from the construction of the pipeline. It should be preserved as a feature in the landscape.

7. Impact of the Scheme No scheduled ancient monuments, listed buildings or designed historic landscapes will be affected by the present scheme.

8. List of Plates. Plate 1: Site 4, Garvan Sheepfold, from ENE. (Front Cover) Plate 2: Site 2, Structure, on the North Garvan River from S. Plate 3: Site 3, Wall on the North Garvan River, from E. Plate 4: Site 5, SW corner of the enclosure on the North Garvan River, from SSW. Plate 5: Site 9, West side of the enclosure on the An Dubh Uisge, from NW.

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Plate 2: Site 2, Structure, from S. Plate 3: Site 3, Wall, from E.

Plate 4: Site 5, SW corner of enclosure, from SSW. Plate 5: Site 9, West side of enclosure, from NW.

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