Early morning dew glitters atop the delicate interior of a white protea.

A very little park and a very big achievement. Bontebok National Park is a sanctuary for many species, a place where rare things are common. Safe Haven BY DALE MORRIS

species of % plants harboured

000 by the , PLAYGROUND Global 5 the smallest population Bontebok is a plant kingdom 70of these species great park for of bontebok on Earth are endemic. 9 000 kids as they can explore freely. 22 WILD SPRING 2012 www.wildcard.co.za BONTEBOK

CHILLY WINTER’S WIND Bontebok nibbled at stems. Across BLEW DOWN from the snow- a broad valley, I spied a neat little row of frosted Langeberg and whistled rare Cape mountain zebra who stared at through the feathery fynbos of our car with wide-eyed suspicion. ABontebok National Park. Ericas, The scene was made all the more special proteas and restios shimmied as if they by a myriad bird calls and an ethereal mist were shivering in the cold, while nearby a which rose from the nearby Breede River Looking onto Lang Elsie's camp. grey rhebok snorted in alarm at my pres- like smoke. Around 200 bird species have ence. It sounded as if he were sneezing. I been logged at Bontebok and during our 1 2 looked at him, and he bolted like a bunny short drive I spotted some fish eagles soar- Bontebok National Park over the lip of a gently sloping hill. ing above the river, a pair of secretary birds “Winter is such a beautiful time to visit and a half dozen elegant blue cranes. “The closer I looked may be a tiny little Bontebok,” said Siviwe Nondobo while “Here it is,” said Siviwe as we pulled up the more details and pulling his beanie tightly over his ears. alongside a small patch of wispy stems. “As- species and textures place, but it is home Perhaps it’s not the best time of year for a palathus burchelliana. The last of their kind.” to rarities that would refreshing dip or a kayak trip in the Breede The frail-looking plants trembled in the and shapes I saw.” River. Summer and spring would be best wind, their little yellow flowers quivered as otherwise not exist. for that. But it is perfect hiking weather if afraid. And well they might have been. and, besides, it’s also when many of my “That’s all of them?” I asked incredu- flowers come into bloom.” lously. “That’s the entire species?” A SANParks ranger since 2009, Siviwe They looked so delicate and vulnerable is also a fledgling scientist, a young man out there on that exposed hill in South who has grown to love and respect the in- Africa’s smallest national park that my credibly rare plants under his care. As part heart went out to them. I’d never felt that of a BTech course and also as part of his way about a plant before. 3 4 SANParks duties, he has been put in charge “Yes, I think that’s all of them,” replied of keeping an eye on several of the 56 Red Siviwe. “They used to occur outside the Data plant species, including three endem- park, but unsurprisingly, none have been ics found in Bontebok National Park and seen for a while now.” nowhere else on Earth. The reason for this is that , It’s a big responsibility, especially when a rare subset of the Cape Floristic King- you consider that some of these plants dom, has been heavily hit by agricultural are scarcer than snow in summer. But the practices from as far back as the late 1700s. duty is one Siviwe has taken very much to Less than 10 per cent of this critically en- his heart. dangered habitat survives, with only two “This isErica filamentosa,” he told me per cent being conserved formally in while crouching down in front of a little national parks and reserves. A fair whack shrub with purple flowers. “You will find it of Renosterveld can be found in the tiny growing in just five sites, all of which are in 3 500-hectare Bontebok National Park. the park.” The patch of knee-high plants among Location, location 5 6 which I was standing was roughly the size Originally, this small park was established of a tennis court. Perhaps a little smaller. in the 1930s near Bredasdorp in order to “And if you think this one is rare, let’s go save and propagate the last few bontebok Bontebok is take a look at one of my other study plants.” in existence. Locals had already situated on the We drove for a while through rolling witnessed the extinction of the blue ante- Breede River, hills and along soft ridges where white lope due to hunting and habitat loss. Not just outside . proteas lifted their opulent blooms to- wanting to see the beautiful bontebok go wards a weak winter’s sun. Sugarbirds down that same path, they banded together flitted like angels between the flowers. and created a sanctuary.

Park manager 1. A hairy caterpillar feeds on fynbos. 2. Bontebok National Park protects fynbos along with Bulelwa Msengi the endangered renosterveld. 3. A hartebeest grazes among ericas. 4. A moss-filled snail safeguards the shell. 5. The yellow flower ofAspalathus burchelliana, an endangered species. 6. A view from natural riches the park towards Swellendam and the Langeberg. 7. The new visitors' centre and reception at of Bontebok. Bontebok National Park. 8. The inquisitive gaze of a thick-knee. 7 8

24 WILD SPRING 2012 www.wildcard.co.za BONTEBOK

From your deck you might see rabbits, turtles and The cosy wooden chalets are great bontebok. places to spend the night. TRIP PLANNER GETTING THERE Bontebok National Park is about 6 km from the historic town of Swellendam, signposted off the N2. It’s about 240 km from Cape Town and 540 km from Port Elizabeth.

ACCOMMODATION The camp is a beautifully designed collection of 10 wooden units that overlook the silvery It was a great idea, implemented in the My final destination with Siviwe was a river. Chalets R775 a night for two. R172 for an additional adult, R86 a child. nick of time. Within a decade or two, bon- rather forlorn-looking corner of the park. It There’s also a plethora of campsites tebok had bounced back from the edge of was obvious from the scorched blackness of both with and without electricity, where oblivion to number several hundred. How- the earth and the twisted charcoal sticks of habituated bontebok graze the well-kept lawns as if they owned the place. Camp- ever, after 30 years of conservation efforts, former protea bushes that a fierce fire had sites without electricity R155 a night for it was agreed that the vegetation quality recently swept through the area. The dark two and with electricity R190. R58 for and abundance of parasites in the Bredas­ clouds that had drifted in above us and the an additional adult, R29 for a child. The dorp location warranted a move. So in croaking sound of nearby crows and blue birding is great and you don’t even need to leave the deck of your cabin to tick 1961, the whole project was relocated to its cranes helped lend an almost apocalyptic off quite a few species. The camp is a current location beneath the shadow of the ambience to the place. Hartebeest dragged great base from which to explore the Langeberg next to the historic little town their heels through the landscape, kicking surrounding countryside and towns. of Swellendam. up little eddies of grey dust as they went ACTIVITIES Hike in aloe-studded for- Since then, bontebok have been relocated about their business. ests beside the river, where the birding to various parks, reserves and farms within “This is the last known site ofDiosma fal- is excellent, or stroll through the wide their former range, and now the global lax,” said Siviwe as we walked across barren open fynbos-covered plains that so population stands at somewhere around earth. “It’s an inconspicuous fynbos plant typify this picturesque little park. Bontebok National Park has four 5 000 animals. It’s hard to imagine that 80 that may possibly now be extinct.” He was 1. Erica filamentosa distinct hiking trails, three of which com- “My heart went out is one of the rarest years ago the entire species was represented staring intently at the ground, scanning mence from a picnic site on the banks plants in the world. by just 17 vulnerable individuals. with his eyes in search of something. “An of the Breede River close to the Lang to them. I’d never felt 2. Struthiola argentea Our next port of call was on the other side accidental fire swept through here recently Elsie campsite. None are at all strenuous has a sweet evening and the longest is a mere 5,5 km. that way about a scent. of the park, a drive of just 30 minutes. There and killed all the plants. Now our only There’s a dedicated 9 km mountain- 3. Field ranger Siviwe are around 20 kilometres of well-graded dirt hope is that there are seeds in the soil. Un- bike track where you can pedal to your plant before.” Nondobo with the roads to explore in Bontebok and although fortunately though, I don’t actually know heart’s content without fear of bumping plants he protects. into a car or running over a hiker. You’ll 4. Strolling on the that might not sound like much, there’s al- what a Diosma fallax sprout looks like. In have to bring your own bike for the time Breede River’s beach. ways plenty to see on the route. fact, nobody does.” being, but there are plans afoot to devel- “It's okay to get out of your car in Bon- We left the area then and I prayed that op a bike-rental programme in the park. 1 2 tebok,” Siviwe told me as we drew up next at least one of the tiny seedlings I could You should also be able to rent canoes 3 4 in the not-too-distant future. to a particularly pretty patch of fynbos. see pushing up through the dust would There are also designated swimming “There aren’t any big predators here.” Red turn out to be a proverbial phoenix rising holes, view points with picnic facilities, a hartebeest were ambling through a field of from the ashes to reanimate lost life. day visitors’ braai area, a kiddies' jungle blooming pink ericas, as was a small herd “We mustn’t worry too much though,” gym, river beaches with resident otters, as well as a brand new events building of bontebok. It was a lovely sight. said Siviwe with an optimistic smile on his for parties, weddings and other events. “You can really appreciate the details face. “Earlier this year, a species of aloe we when walking,” Siviwe said, indicating the had thought to be long extinct suddenly RESERVATIONS 012-428-9111, plants all over, and he was correct. The started growing here again. Fynbos needs www.sanparks.org/parks/bontebok closer I looked, the more details and spe- fire and I’m pretty sureDiosma will make cies and textures and shapes I saw. There a comeback. That’s why I am here studying Flowers turn the fields into were pretty little ferns tucked among little these things.” pure canvases of colour. flowering plants. Succulents, aloes and Big things can come from little packages spindly restios were mixed in with feathery it would seem, and Bontebok National Park herbs, lichens, perennials and garish geo- certainly does sum up the idea that, in con- phytes. Rare things are very common here. servation, every little bit helps.

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