’s magical island

Text by Mathias Corvallo CozumelPhotos by Mathias Corvallo, Erick Cruz and Scott Johnson

36 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO p h oto CLASSIFIED courtesy of mexico tourism travel Cozumel combines the great reefs that one might find at the best dive spots around the warm Mexican Gulf waters with the laid back island life, where everything is close enough...

CLOCKWISE: Seahorse hides among fronds of soft coral; Octopus changing color for the camera; Tobaccofish hovers over purple coral on the reef off Cozumel

PREVIOUS PAGE: A diver explores the bright orange and gold colored sponges and coral growth of the reefs

scott johnson scott johnson off the island of Cozumel

Yes, I know, Cozumel must Cozumel combines the great ing spot in the world, back in the have already been reviewed reefs that one might find at the 60s. Who are we to discredit the old best dive spots around the warm master? several times since you took Mexican Gulf waters with the laid Since the French sanction of up scuba diving, but the fact back island life, where everything Cozumel as a divers’ paradise remains, that it is still one of the is close enough with a short taxi on Earth—and just to make sure Caribbean’s top destinations ride or a pleasurable bicycle tour. it sticks—the Mexican authorities Indeed, the island has few routes, established a huge marine park for diving enthusiasts from all and a great set of beaches and for the preservation of local flora over the world—from the nov- coves. Almost every place offers and fauna as well as the means of ice to the very knowledge- gentle waves lapping warm sands. income, based on sports tourism, able—and now it’s safe again And there is always a beach bar that is the lifeline of the island. or “tienda” around where you can to go there, as Mexico has get great refreshments at very low Palancar Reef been cleared off the CDC’s prices—an “honest-to-God” div- There are many areas for scuba travel warning list for swine flu. ing paradise, but then, you already enthusiasts to choose from, but knew that! a great start is the internationally It’s time once again to enjoy What can we say? Good ol’ renown Palancar Reefs located the treats of this enchanting Jacques Cousteau baptized between the tropical paradise. Cozumel as ze most beautiful div- coastline and the western side of scott johnson 37 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED COUNTER-CLOCKWISE: Blue Tang; Lizardfish; travel Gray angelfish (inset) Cozumel the island. This shel- Many well-known brands offer such prod- tered section has ucts, and it is in your best interest to get a the clearest water. few bottles at home, as prices on the island The best spots are a tend to be a trifle steep, and stocks aren’t mere 20-30 minutes always plentiful. Boat rides to the diving ride away, depend- spots on the reef are under a mile away ing on where you from the shore (over one kilometer), so the start from. best choice is to sign up for a day cruise or El Arrecife charter a boat from a local tour agency. Palancar (Palancar Reef), stretching Sea life for many kilome- Cozumel has so much underwater wild ters on the western life that it is hard to mention every one of side of the island, them, so I selected three I liked best—sites is where divers can I think you will want to keep a lookout for find amazing coral and snap a few great shots of to show the formations and a folks back home. The variety of fish and ‘horseshoe’ of coral other wondrous animals, apparently more heads, making for than 250 species to choose from, might not scott johnson some of the world’s be too apparent at first, but the more you Underwater photographer with finest underwater dive, the better it gets! friendly green moray eel scenery with a stun- scott johnson ning 70m (230ft) vis- Sea turtles ibility range. Here’s one marine animal you A haven for underwater photographers, can count on having a “téte- Palancar is populated by many sea turtles a-téte” with. Cozumel is full (as large as they come), groupers, nurse of them, some of which sharks and the elusive “Palancar Catfish” are quite large speci- —a crazy sight, if you can spot it hiding mens, idly searching under the coral. Depths range between for their next an easy 12 meters (40ft) at the north end, meal and called Palancar Gardens, to more than 24 will cruise by meters deep (80 ft), providing pros oppor- you at a lei- tunities for fantastic deep-water diving. surely speed, There are some opportunities for great not mind- cavern diving, such as Devil’s throat at ing much to 42 meters (139 ft) down at the south end what’s going called . See the video of it on on around YouTube.com at: http://www.youtube. them. And that com/watch?v=8ECFvuLBUNA&feature=fvw. is the great thing There are enough brightly colored fish and about these cute anemonae to fulfill any underwater pho- turtles— you really tographer’s dreams. feel like a specta- Palancar Reef is as popular among div- tor of nature’s great ers as it can be, therefore its much-lauded drama when you are coral formations are in constant peril. with them. But fight the Visitors must purchase a wrist band pass urge to piggyback a lift and acknowledge the marine park regu- on one of them. They look lations—one of them being the mandatory sheepish, but have great beaks use of bio-degradable sunscreen lotion. that can snap a coconut to piec-

scott johnson scott johnson 38 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Diver investigates a giant sponge formation. RIGHT: Cozumel travel Angelfish

protection program. If you want to witness the miracle of baby sea turtles hatching and dashing off to sea, just contact the Turtle Salvation

Program at the jo h nson Cozumel Volunteer Connection office, scott located at 602-B (upstairs) Raphael Melgar Avenue and right next cozy under door to the a coral, waiting Naval Base. The on unsuspecting fish to be program’s director, funding scooped in to its larger-than-life Rodrigo Navarro, along is avail- gaping mouth (hence the toad with several committee mem- able. If you are feel- reference) as the next meal. bers and dedicated volunteers, ing grand, you can help, too. It can move very fast when are doing whatever they can Just check out the information attacking, and you rarely see to keep the Turtle Salvation at www.cozumelinsider.com/ it outside its lair. Cozumel has

scott johnson Program going with what little TURTLESEE and make your dona- this unique species as their local tion. attraction, and you’ll be glad

Barracudas Nasty looking, long fairly com- pressed, elongated bodies covered with small, smooth scales led by large mouths with fang-like teeth... Sounds scary? Like sharks, barracudas have

scott johnson a bad, although undeserved, reputation. Rare and unproven Diver swims es, let alone your pinkies. Besides reports of unprovoked attacks through a school the danger of injury to oneself, are known, however, the fish of silversides there is also the risk of injury to are sea scavengers and will (above); the animal. The first rule of the respond to shiny objects. So, Cozumel Catfish, responsible diver is to look only, if you are sporting a bellybut- otherwise known don’t touch—leave the wildlife ton ring, it pays not to dangle as the toadfish (right); alone. and don’t harrass the crit- it in front of these lighting fast Local map ters. beasts. Illustration of Sea turtles have been around

the island of forever and consider Palancar Cozumel Catfish corvallo Cozumel their own backyard. Hence, Cozumel Catfish (a.k.a. toad-

(far right) they are one of the main pro- fish) are Cozumel’s endemic mat h ias tected species in the area. They catfish and a sight to be seen. have a sanctuary on the south Bearded, freaky-looking, striped you managed to see one. Ask end, where nests are kept under like a yellow bug-eyed zebra, your dive guide to keep a look- surveillance and have their own the catfish favors holing up, safe out—it’s a real treat!

scott johnson 39 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Cozumel CLOCKWISE FROM FAR RIGHT: Spotted goatfish; Black seahorse; Yellow seahorse wraps its tail around purple sponge; Yellow stingray emerg- es from the sand of the sea floor; Yellow seahorse swimming through fronds of soft coral

You can probably book your daily dives at a very convenient loca- tion—by the pool, near the snack bar, and so on... scott johnson scott johnson scott johnson

Diving menu day; everybody gets the same meal. nice chats with several of them: Pingo, few colorful stories. There is a little something for all tastes Not that it matters much, as Cozumel William, Sergio, Lobo and the rest of the in Cozumel. As you will probably stay has more than 20 spots to choose from gang. Most of the team are bilingual Specialty bistrô—diving à la carte in either a small inn or a large all- and all of them very, very nice. profressionals, but if you manage some Dining in a smaller, off-the-beaten-path inclusive hotel, you’ll find that there Typically, divers are told what sort of Spanish, they will be happy to tell you a restaurant can bring excellent surprises. are hundreds of dive operations that dive profile each boat will provide, the will be able to take you to all the best main difference being deep versus shal- spots. Unsurprisingly, there is a trade- low, so you can be sure to keep those

off between one type and another, so N2 bubbles under control. These big descriptions of each follow to give you operations are usually associated with an idea of what’s available. a big hotel or resort, and you can prob- ably book your daily dives at a very All you can eat buffet convenient location—by the pool, near Ever been to one of those places where the snack bar, and so on. the host sets up a long table piled with I dived with Dive Palancar, a very pro- goodies up to the roof? Customers pay fessional outfit located within two of the a ‘reasonably cheap’ fixed fee and largest Occidental Hotels on Palancar can then help themselves to as much Beach. Customers can get instructed food as they wish to eat in a single at all levels with PADI, NAUI and SSI. The meal. Depending on the customer, that operation offers guided tours, deep- can get ugly. sea fishing trips, snorkeling outings, and Well, diving can be pretty similar to even private tours. Ask for Radames this in some areas. Like buffet menus, a Solis—he’ll set you up. very big dive operation can offer you a Dive Palancar has been around reasonable price for a couple of scuba for many years, and their crew is very tanks, but there is a catch—you don’t experienced. Dive Palancar’s dive get to choose where you ‘eat’ each masters are a great group, and I had scott johnson scott johnson 40 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Cozumel

Erick cruz - scuba dogs

Diver submerges in a cenote for a cave dive; Onlookers at Plata Forma cave site; Underwater videographer catches some underwater rays in a cenote

smaller, less —just what you might be looking scuba as well as snorkel- crowded for. Cruz knows the way. ing. Just about any place boat and If you get the opportunity, have can provide marvelous Erick cruz - scuba dogs having the a nice cup of coffee with Cruz experiences for all tastes, option to after your dive. He has many sto- levels and wallets. But a The chef is usually the owner choose and chat about how, ries to tell, and knows all about few of these are espe- himself—a professional with great where and when one is going to the diving industry on the island, cially recommended, and experience, who takes you under dive is priceless. And—more often as well as the coast. I’ve dis- I have had the opportu- his wing every step of the way. than not—such dives are worth covered that “decompressing” nity to visit some of them Diving with a smaller operation every penny of the slightly higher over a nice cup of java, makes personally. Most require in Cozumel can be as special. He fees paid. Also, for those “abso- Cozumel’s easy pace seem like it a short boat ride and are or she knows every reef, has been lute” beginners in diving, there is has slowed down time, itself. accessible from your aver- to every spot on the island, and much to be said when you have age hotel, resort and dive can give you a marvelous private a personal guide all to yourself Who’s who? club, as most are located Erick cruz - scuba dogs tour. All that know-how usually and get to choose your destina- I am very picky about whom I along the west coast. Colombia (Deep) Colombia (Shallow) comes from working a number of tion. dive with, and I usually never Some dive spots are classified Great coral turrets starting at 15 At only ten meters deep (30ft), years with other dive operations Our prize chef was Erick G repeat a mistake, unless I have in two categories: “shallow” and meters deep (49ft) on a white divers will see a colorful coral before opening up a shop. Cruz, ScubaDogs’ Dive Operation no choice. But I would definitively “deep”. Some of the deeper sandy bottom behind which a garden with abundant marine This professional will go the dis- owner. Cruz took us under with his dive again with both operators, areas will have great walls that bottomless abyss looms. It’s a thrill life—too many species to count. tance to provide a quality experi- wing and conducted our dives Dive Palancar and ScubaDogs. If offer a smaller variety of sea life to hover over it and a superb It’s an excellent spot for the snor- ence that does not necessarily with extremely professional dex- you think you want to give them but much greater thrills, as over photo setting—just be careful not keling and scuba enthusiasts translate into luxury but certainly terity. He is one of the very few a try, here is their contact infor- the edge, you can glimpse a very to drop your underwater camera, alike. This is where I met the (in) great experiences for the cli- DAN instructors on the island, mation: Divepalancar.com and deep drop indeed while circling for there is no chance to go get famous Cozumel Catfish—a weird ent—a special taste of the island’s besides being an accredited ScubaDogs at: erickdivers@hot- towering coral reef formations. it without the use of a deep sub! cross between a zebra, a yellow underwater scenery, especially instructor for PADI and NAUI. There mail.com Brief accounts of the dives I Here, one can find a variety of brimmed sombrero and a cross- when it takes you away from the are not just reefs on the menu, managed to do follows. Rest fish life including large sea turtles, eyed toad. It is as elusive as it is crowds. but you can also find the occa- Some great spots assured, there is much more to be rays and a few nurse sharks that ugly, but you gotta love the little For some divers, being on a sional great “cenote” experience Cozumel has lots of great spots for seen. will occasionally pay a visit. guy!

41 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED travel Cozumel

CLOCKWISE FROM FAR LEFT: Blue-striped grunt; Porkfish and grunts school together; Diver sheds torch light on giant sponges on a reef wall; Spotted moray eel (inset); Diver with green sea turtle cruising the reef off Cozumel

scott johnson

groupers, some We reached about nine meters large octopus (fun deep (30ft), and saw scattered to follow and see islets of coral and sponges amid change colors and a flat sandy bottom. Over the shapes!), a lot of lob- reefs, there is always an abun- sters, many kinds of dant marine life, which will morays, some holed- include groupers, sea turtles and up nurse sharks and rays. My buddy was a novice scott johnson wandering sea tur- diver, and she felt very much at Palancar “Horseshoe” tles. Very warm waters, but bring ease. We just followed the cur- Starting at seven meters (25ft), a windbreaker for that speedy rents and relaxed. this spot has beautiful marine ride home afterwards. life, large coral formations, and La Francesa a lot of large Palancar Gardens After a superb surface interval, sponges Reaching a this was our second dive of the before slop- max- day. We had a snack break at ing down to a great deserted area, called the ocean floor. Palancar Beach, We dove around filled with the coral turrets and large through a few caves around 30 meters deep (99ft) and saw a few lonely turtles passing by. Clear waters!

Paso del Cedral (Shallow) imum With a depth range between 9 depth of 24 to 18 meters (30-60ft), this area meters (78ft) we has colorful and various corals explored caves and and sponges. As we went at passageways, with the night, we saw a lot more marine abyss looming close by. It life than during the day: a few was an easy multilevel dive. scott johnson scott johnson scott johnson 42 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED CLOCKWISE: Octopus changing colors as it hides in a nook along the reef; Beware of the Stinging Hydra Diver and Queen angelfish in coral Monster from the Deep encrusted passage; Curious moray eel Cozumel travel under large sponge greets diver Slim Fire Coral cousin is no feeble foe. Punta Dalila current and fire coral area, with This was the first time I’ve ever depths ranging between 9-18 A close relative of the fire seen nurse sharks doing anything meters (30-60ft). coral, this hydroid colony ani- other than sleeping or strolling. A mal is found all over Palancar couple of them actually hunted “It’s all in the wrist!” Reef, and believe me – its sting down a group of fish and ate most Mexican conservation law charges hurts! of the poor things on the spot. a visitation fee of 20 pesos for all Divers should beware of div- I don’t think I will ever see that marine protected areas. Besides ing too closed to the coral again. No one else on the group wearing your wrist band, make (how’s your buoyancy control seemed to have noticed it. Life sure to request and keep your these days?), as these hydroids goes on. proof of payment to ensure your are usually nothing more than Amid plenty of coral and large money will go where it should. a thing black bush, often invis- sponges, we spotted a lot of wan- Due to their intensive use and ible, until you brush past it. The dering angelfish, surgeons, grou- ecological importance and frailty, pain is quite immediate and pers, parrotfish (some big ones) most of the reefs surrounding the shocking, although not serious. and boxfish. This is another strong Cozumel Island, and some lagoons The affected areas can becomes quite itchy (what- ever you do, fight the urge to scratch it!) and, depend- ing on each individual’s skin sensibility, will take quite some time for the marks to go away, long after the itching ends. Of course, if you are a dumbbell like me, you will get a kick of scott johnson parading your “war scars” to more novice divers. empty shells that covered the La Francesa has small sand hills Another strong current and fire Prevention is the name of sands and the pier. Surreal! covered with scattered coral and coral spot, Santa Rosa starts at the game, so dash off to your The dive was terrific. We met sponges, where you can fins a 12 meters (40ft) and then slopes local diver outlet and pur- no less than six nurse sharks and a lot of sea turtles, rays and nurse into—you guessed again—the chase that sleek looking dive very large Loggerhead Sea Turtle sharks. The spot is not very ade- abyss. skin you had your eye on – the (Caretta caretta) with the thickest quate for the novice, or inexperi- water in Cozumel is so warm neck I’ve seen in some time. enced divers, as there are strong Palancar Ladrillos that you will need little else. currents and A This was a very large wall, with A smart measure is to check LOT of fire coral really amazing canyons. We with your local physician and (as I can person- stayed at 28 meters (92ft) aver- take along some skin lotion ally testify to my age, where there was not much to treat any unavoidable chagrin). Depths of a current. We didn’t see a lot encounters with this sea mon- between 12-24 of marine life around, other than ster—after all, they are on their meters (40-80ft). a few wondering lobsters and home turf. smaller species (their day off?). The Santa Rosa Wall geological formations, however, Gymnangium longicauda, The area fea- are a spectacle in themselves, Feather Hydroid. 3 1/2 to 12” tures small and the complex navigation tall. Thin, close-spaced indi- coral ridges, requires an experienced guide. vidual branches with whitish caves and— Watch out for the corals’ sharp branchlets. Found worldwide you guessed edges; be sure to wear a nylon in tropical seas. http://www. it—abounding skin or even some light exposure wetwebmedia.com/hydrozo- marine life. suit, despite the very warm waters. ans.htm

scott johnson scott johnson 43 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED Gaping spotted moray eel Big grouper checks out awestruck diver

Cozumel Space Invaders travel Lionfish are invading the also prevent lit- operaters to follow suit. reef and creating havoc tering and try to When you go diving, among the local fish popu- use oil drip-free one thing you mustn’t lation. engines on their forget is to apply sun- Lionfish, originally from vessels. These block lotion, lest you’ll the Pacific Ocean, are an operaters deserve catch those strong aggressive species that your patronage. rays while on board usually take charge of the It will be a great and turn into a lobster coral where they settle incentive for cur- by dinner time. But be around. In Cozumel, these rent operators to sure to choose a bio- foreign animals have no maintain healthy degradable, oil-free natural predators, and are environmental brand, as the residue of laying waste to what is easy practices, but will regular makes can very pray for them: the local scott johnson encourage more hazardous to the cor- fishes. al’s pres- By the time we left ervation. Cozumel, our dive operator A few alone captured three dif- extra dol- ferent specimens. There is a lars can rising concern for both the go a long maintenance of the marine way to fauna and the safety of div- keeping ers, unaccustomed with the the reefs hazards involved. healthy. The lionfish’s dorsal spines, scott johnson loaded with venom, are During the fishes, and make sure all your dive normally used as a defense dive gear is securely attached and not mechanism. Although Once you dip those dangling behind you. Needless to not “ordinarily” fatal for fins in that clear-blue say, don’t go swimming through humans, the sting of a lion- sea, you’ll drift right reef caves, avoid stirring sand and fish is extremely painful and down to the bottom, never stand, rest or hold on the can cause everything from avoiding the stron- reef. That is why the use of gloves headaches to vomiting and ger surface currents. and knives is strictly forbidden. even breathing difficulties. If That is when you will you are a scuba diver and scott johnson need to make sure During surface intervals you spot one while diving Large grouper hides under a ledge; Diver and giant sponge (right) to maintain good While you swap through those off Cozumel, be very care- buoyancy control, great photos you and your dive ful, do not try to touch it or the south side, are part of a nation- Dive preparation and avoid contact mates took, try and have a chat capture it. It is a better idea al preserve since 1996. Tourism is —choosing your oper- with corals and other about your performance during to call on the attention of the main engine that keeps the ater marine life. Try and the dive and ways to improve it. your divemaster and have economy of the island afloat, but There are many dive keep an average After all, practice makes perfect. them immediately contact it is also the major threat to its pres- operaters in Cozumel, of five meters (15ft) the marine park authorities, ervation. Receiving around 1,500 and a great deal of distance, and you’ll After the dive so that it can be captured. visitors per a day, Cozumel needs them officially contrib- still be able to see Make sure to thank your dive here is a NOAA – spon- everyone’s cooperation in order ute to reef conserva- a lot. Touching the guide for enforcing sound pres- sored documentary about to maintain its reefs healthy. Below tion programs by way reef might damage ervation practices. Before you capturing these misguided are a few tips for you to show how of providing thorough it, and, depend- step on dry land, don’t forget to creatures: It describes the responsible a diver you are and orientation lectures ing what you get in contribute to the crew’s tip, which steps taken to study this promote sustainable use of the to their clients and touch with, yourself will always help the cause. While phenomena and guidelines reefs. making sure that they as well. Resist the shopping, refuse to purchase any for the general public on follow the rules. They urge to feed the souvenirs made from coral or other what to do if you spot on.

scott johnson 44 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED LEFT TO RIGHT: Luscious nob of healthy corals and anemone; Gray angelfish plucks coral; travel A Coney grouper sports its spots and stripes Cozumel was not ready to sink she gave me hell about it—like it was island. beneath the waves my fault? It was indeed a tough call In town, beside the fast enough (and to make, as we saw, from above the main church, is an within safety ranges, waves, several nurse sharks swimming Hispanic relic. There of course) to follow by. It would have been a great dive, is also the Museo the guided group. no doubt. But safety comes first, so we de la Isla Cozumel We ended up drift- decided to take a personal guide next (Cozumel’s Island ing away, some ten time around until she could acclimatize Museum), located near meters (30ft) below herself. If you have to do that on site, it the city’s ferry docks. the surface and— can get a tad expensive. It’s a nice tour to do as the currents are It goes without saying that I went div- between meals and stronger at shallow ing by myself most of the time, and I the mandatory knick- depths—we soon would have liked to share those precious knack shopping at were separated so moments with her. Therefore, whatever local tiendas (Cinco far apart that I had your dive certifications are, if you are Soles is a must, if you to call the dive and diving with a friend or significant other, are shopaholically go back up. remember that your buddy should have inclined—just have an What followed you the same skills as you do. If any of you intervention team pre- can well imagine: I are not comfortable with drift diving, try pared). had to call the cir- and fix that beforehand. The museum displays cling boat to pick the island’s range of us up, lost one pre- Topside attractions endangered species, cious dive (that’s a Visit the ruins of Cozumel and make the ancient and modern lot if one considers Indiana Jones in you a happy camper. topographical refer- that we were only Cozumel Island, like the coastal ences (Mayan pilgrim- there a week) and area, has a few archeo- age, Spanish conquest, logical sites that Pirate’s den and Social will interest those revolutions theatre) as with a weakness well as artifacts that for the ancient are relevant to the world. Visiting tour- island’s culture, namely ists have a choice pre-Colombian and of ruins and sites Spanish colonial and scott johnson scott johnson that are unique nautical pieces (cut- to the island such lasses and cannons structure down. Whatever remained of marine life. Never eat in establishments as La Palma—an available). The terrace has a simple yet the original structure was rebuilt after the that won’t keep endangered or fragile 800-year-old Maya honest restaurant offering a lovely scenic storm. marine life species off their menus. ruin—and Castillo view. Find it at Avenida Rafael Melgar at There are other������������������������������� off-island tourist attrac- Real—an inspiring Calle 6 Norte, San Miguel. tions on the Mayan Coast, just off the Currents Ahoy! 1200-year-old ruin El Cedral is widely advertised as being ferry boat. Cozumel diving requires good buoyancy overlooking the the oldest Mayan structure. It still bears a control, as all spots will have moderate Caribbean Sea, few traces of paint and stucco applied (Tulum.com) to strong currents. Drift diving is a skill El Cedral and San by the original Mayan artisans. However, Tulum is one of Mexico’s most well-known that you definitely want to have before Gervasio. Their there is little archaeological evidence archaeological sites, primarily due to its wetting your fins. Therefore, it is strongly availability and left these days, mainly because the con- location on top of a 12-meter-high cliff advised to either hone your abilities or current restoration quistadors destroyed much of the original facing a spectacular ocean view. It was invest in a short diving specialty course at efforts provide an temple structure. one of a series of Mayan towns, shrines, home before taking off to Mexico. important under- By the turn of the last century, the site and forts established along the coast of I speak from experience. I was there standing of the was uninhabited, suffering from the ele- the Yucatan Peninsula. Although consid- with my girlfriend, and she is somewhat a ancient history ments—the worst event being hurricane ered to be a rather small enclosure when novice, although quite capable. But she and culture of the Wilma in 2005, which tore much of the compared to other archeological sites,

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mathias corvallo mathias corvallo

Queen angelfish portrait (left); Playa Bonita enjoys a turquoise blue surf (above); Dive boat off to sea (inset)

day, the timing is quite beaches alone will make the trip well in the southeastern Meso America precise. worth it. region. Visitors will notice A close look at the buildings can another peculiarity Xel Ha (Xelha.com) show a gradual change in architec- regarding the buildings On the spot where the blue Carib- tural style, starting from the Puuc and in the area: each seems bean waters meet the Yucatan culminating with the so-called Mayan Peninsula’s underground Toltec style, given its similarities with rivers was created a natu- those found in Tula—he ancient capi- ral water park, located tal of the Toltecs—and with other sites scott johnson right outside of Playa in central Mexico, such as Oaxaca Tulum is still the largest fortified area on del Carmen. The park and the Gulf Coast. Chichén Itzá was the Quintana Roo coast. includes all the ameni- a large city and well-populated with The name “Tulum”, in local Maya ties of a family day outing citizens distributed around the area. dialect (there seems to be several vari- with the natural beauty They had relatively easy access to ations), means “wall on the ground”, of a protected habitat for water coming from various caves and, in fact, the area is enclosed by a regional marine life, offer- (Cenotes) of the region. stone wall about three to five meters ing great snorkeling, hik- Located about three hours south of high and several meters thick. Within ing, and exploring of the Cancun, this site went under massive this wall lie some 60 well-preserved two local structures that are gems of Mayan his- “cenotes” tory. The once obsidian-covered walls (freshwa-

(obsidian is a black stone created mathias corvallo ter sink- from lava) gave birth to the City of holes). Gold myth, as well as sealing the fate to be slightly eschewed, as if leaning of many a greedy conqueror, not to a bit to one side. That was also done Chichén Itzá mathias corvallo mention the Mayans themselves. on purpose, as the area was (and (Chichenitza.com) Tulum’s architecture is in fact a won- is) regularly hit by ocean storms and The ancient city of restoration in 1923, but still has enough TOP TO der of engineering. In specific days of hurricanes (well known by their dev- Chichén Itzá was, at uncovered mounds to ensure explora- BOTTOM: the year marking the solstices, each astating effects over the Caribbean its height between tion efforts over the next few decades. Ruins at building will channel the early morning Islands). The idea was to build an aero 800 and 1200 A.D., To date, more than 18 structures Tulum; sunrays through a window or hole on dynamical structure that would hold the political, religious have been excavated and restored, Temple of the wall of a given structure, and that fast and not be blown away—clever and military center although their usage is still a mystery. the Frescos will create a beam of light that will folk, the Mayans. of Yucatán, and a Archeologists today can only hypoth- at Tulum (left) pinpoint agricultural milestones. To this If nothing else, a visit to the nearby veritable seat of power esize from the evidence uncovered. ■

mathias corvallo 46 X-RAY MAG : 35 : 2010 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY EDUCATION PROFILES PORTFOLIO CLASSIFIED groups are allowed to watch the nighttime emergence process of the hatchings. The Crocodile Conservation fact file Program conducts periodic speci- Mexico RIGHT: Location of men capture and tagging, as Cozumel Island on global map well as morphology measure- BELOW: Location of ment data and sex gathering, Cozumel Island on map of Mexico a census and observation of FAR RIGHT: Diver investigates giant the population conditions main- sponge formations on reef wall tained in the Colombia Lagoon source: cia.gov world factbook Reserve.

History Cozumel is a well known by coralline lime- Tijuana Ensenada tourist destination. It is an island stone rock and UNITED STATES located in the state of Quintana sandy soils, being Roo, Mexico. It is famed for its today the largest Isla Guadalupe Hermosillo sandy beaches, clear water inhabited island in Guaymas seas and the Palancar Coral Mexico and the Gulf of California Chihuahua Nuevo Reef National Park (established Caribbean’s pre- laredo Gulf of Topolobampo in 1996). Eons ago, Cozumel was mier dive spot. With Torreón Matamoros Mexico season period, from an entirely different place. The c.190 sq mi (490 sq Culiacán Monterrey October to December CUBA island was a sacred area, inhab- km), the island is Mazatlán when the weather is not ited by the Mayan people, long 48km (30 miles) long NORTH San Luis too hot and the chance Potosí Tampico PACIFIC Aguascalientes Progreso Cancún before it was visited by Spanish from north to south León for a late-arrival storm is OCEAN Puerto Tuxpan Querétaro Bahia de Mérida explorer Fernández de Córdoba but only 16km (10 Vallarta unlikely. Guadalajara Campeche (1517) and later by infamous (and miles) wide from east MEXICO Morelia Veracruz Caribbean bloodthirsty) Hernán to west. On either ISLAS Manzanillo Toluca Sea Ecology The Conser- REVILLAGIGEDO Volcan Pico de Orizaba Coatzacoalcos Cortes (1519), who was respon- side, beaches form Lázaro Cárdenas vation Management Oaxaca sible for the subsequent deci- a long, white sandy Acapulco and Environmental mation of the local indigenous coast washed by Salina Education effort— Cruz GUAT. people. Later on, the area was gentle waves and NIC. established by social repopulated and suffered through transparent waters programs, parks, muse- wars with the French and an on its western board, while huge damage from tropical storms, the ter marine life. This included both ums and community even bloodier civil war, until it was waves crash against the eastern latest being in 2005, affecting the the coral reefs, which suffered commitment—helps “discovered” again by French side. economy, public safety, archeo- particularly at the shallower dive preserve Cozumel’s rich explorer Jacques Yves Cousteau. logical site integrity, the marine sites, and the fish that inhabit the eco-heritage to the While it became a favored scuba Climate The average daily air reef and the tourism trade. The reefs. direct benefit of their diving destination, the island was temperature on Cozumel is 80°F island keeps bouncing right back, In short, if you decide to be a population. Founding not extensively developed for (27°C). In July-August, the highs although not without a constant daring spirit and take the gam- and monitoring research scott johnson tourism until the 1960s. Today, it is range from the upper 80s to the upkeep of its natural and cultural ble to travel to Coz during hur- projects about priori- also a popular cruise and tourist low 90s. (32°C). In December resources. ricane season—that’s between tized species and ecosystems are Bird nesting and conservation destination. and January, the daytime tem- The island was struck directly June 1 and late October, early also a priority. activities are also performed in peratures average in the mid-70s. by two category four hurricanes November—it pays to visit this Among the existing programs, order to keep data regarding Geography The island (24°C). Winter months: Cold fronts during the 2005 Atlantic hurri- webpage: www.cozumelinsider. there is the Punta Sur Turtle Camp. reproduction and animal general of Cozumel is found on the may create windy, cloudy and cane season. First to arrive was com/Hurricane. It contains several It includes 8km of beach for condition in the island. Mesoamerican Reef (also cooler weather. Afternoon thun- Hurricane Emily in July. Despite it tips and sound advice for weath- marine turtle nesting with activities A permanent fauna and rep- known as “Sistema Arrecifal derstorms are common, usually being a powerful storm, it was the ering down those storms, just in in the field that mark the nests, tile management program works Mesoamericano” in Spanish)— lasting for an hour. Water temper- slower moving Hurricane Wilma case. follow the process of incubation, side by side with educational pro- the largest reef system of the atures range from 77°-82°F (25°- that caused the most destruction If the goal is to chomp up some liberation of young hatchings, grams distributed among different Americas, extending nearly 28°C) throughout the year. when it hit the island in October. cheap rates, going for potentially and the introspection of every social groups. They concern solid 1000 kilometers and located at More significant—and virtually sizable discounts offered in this brood for the management of waste management, proper use the Easter tip of the Yucatán Environment Hurricane sea- impossible to humanly repair— period, it is much better to pick statistical data. During the nesting of water, different ecosystems on Peninsula. The island was formed son — Cozumel suffered extensive was the damage to the underwa- offerings during the official off- season, student and community the island and their interaction.

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in Cozumel, it is no different), but that’s not enough. Be very careful when eating buffet style food (especially at all-inclusive resorts)—make sure you eat the food as soon as it is served on the steam tables. It’s very easy to get food poisoning from these buf- fets because they are not kept at the right temperatures and spoil very quickly. Some places will also mix leftover foods with fresh made foods. Bottled water is an mathias corvallo absolute must, even CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Ruins at Tulum; for brushing your Silhouette of sculpture of divers and corals on teeth. It is also sug- Cozumel; Detail of sculpture; Sunset at Playa Bonita gested that you eat mathias corvallo at restaurants that nowhere the island its Mayan name, also Credit cards Most establish- use bottled water to else in the rely heavily on the richly produc- ments such as restaurants, hotels prepare their food, world. tive feeding grounds of the reef, and rentals will accept most as well as purified The which supports populations of credit cards. Stores will sometimes water used in their waters sur- magnificent frigate birds, brown charge a higher rate for credit ice cubes. Bring rounding pelicans, olive cormorants, and card purchases. your own stomach the island many others. The prehistoric meds just in case. have an iguana—the island’s ancient Traveler’s checks Most tour astound- guardian—and the crocodile are operators, hotels and restaurants Hospitals ing 40- to the state’s largest lizards, and will take traveler’s checks, but Cozumel Medical 50-meter there are a host of amphibians. make sure that your signature is Center, Calle 1 Sur visibility Tree frogs are particularly colorful; exactly the same on each when 52 987 872 94 00 (120-150ft). their bright hues are a warning to signing. Otherwise, you will have a English spoken Cozumel predators. hard time—a legal form of ID will www.centromedi-

also has always be required. mathias corvallo codecozumel.com some of the Currency Mexican Peso (MXN). mathias corvallo biggest and The U.S. dollar is widely accepted ATMs There are a few ATM exchange rates, and that can be Clinica San Miguel most spec- in Cancun and Cozumel, mainly machines available at banks to your advantage. Hotels gen- Calle 6 Norte, tel. 52 987 872 01 03 Biodiversity Crystal-clear tacular sponge formations in the in tourist and hotel areas. downtown, but they will only give erally have the worst exchange water and an incredibly diverse world, such as the Elephant Ear out money in local pesos. rates. For currencies other than Hyperbaric Chamber marine life makes Cozumel’s reefs sponge that can grow as large Shopping When should you USD, exchange rates tend to be Buceo Medico Mexicano an unforgettable underwater as four meters (12ft) across. Other use dollars or pesos? When pur- Exchange Your local bank lower than expected. Cozumel Recompression Center experience. As many as 250 dif- sponges, like the Barrel sponge, chasing inexpensive items (i.e. at branch may be found in Calle 5 Sur; tel. 52 987 2 1430 ferent species of fish can be seen gain considerable size as well. the grocery store), you’ll be bet- Cozumel, probably at the airport, Health Issues Good news: in Cozumel’s waters; one of the On the surface, Cozumel has ter off paying in pesos. Otherwise, in hotels, banks or exchange the CDC Travel Health Warning Websites most spectacular is the Queen a number of unusual features a higher exchange rate may booths. You’ll get the best for Novel H1N1 Flu in Mexico has Tourism Mexico Angelfish, possessing bright blue- and include certain endemic be used to calculate your bill. exchange rates at the banks, been removed as of 19 March www.visitmexico.com and-yellow markings and the dis- species, such as the dwarf rac- Large USD denominations (50 and but it’s not as convenient since 2010. However, as Montezuma tinctive blue “crown” on the top coon (procyon pygmaeus) and 100 dollar bills) may be hard to you need to find one first. The won’t let go of his infamous curse, Tourism Cozumel of the head. You can even catch the Cozumel wren (nasua nel- exchange outside of banks. exchange booths around town everyone knows that you “don’t www.islacozumel.com.mx ■ a glimpse of the Toad fish found soni) Migratory birds, that gave tend to have competitive drink the water in Mexico” (and

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