+

JAN 11 – FEB 2, 2013 Tour Leader: Scott Watson Report & Photos: Scott Watson

Knysna Turaco while eating breakfast (Scott Watson)

A January tour in South means lush vegetation, breeding plumages, and spectacular migrants. This tour hits all of the major habitats has to offer. Starting in the endemic rich around Cape Town, we move through the rich coastal forests of the southern coast. Then north to the dry, yet lush , east to the Highveld grasslands of Wakkerstroom. Moving further north to the famous, ultra-diverse, Bushveld of Kruger NP, then south to the mangroves and coastline around St. Lucia, into the forests of Eshowe, and finally to the high elevation of the Drakensbergs and into the mountain top country of . All of these habitat changes are designed so that we not only get the endemics of South Africa but also a good cross-section of the birdlife this country has to offer. On top of that, mammals seemed to be particularity friendly on this tour from the wide array of antelope to the incredible big cats. With about 490 in the bag and close to 60 species of mammals we didn’t leave much behind (although the Pelagic trip did not run this tour). From African Penguins near Simon’s Town, to bright green Knysna Turacos inches away in Wilderness, from watching a hunting Leopard in Kruger, to having a toast amongst Lammergiers at the highest pub in Africa in Lesotho, this tour is all about diversity. A truly memorable trip which will last a lifetime.

A toast at the highest pub in Africa on the boarder of South Africa and Lesotho (Scott Watson)

Jan. 11th – The False Bay Coast

Our tour started off by visiting 4 mains sites along the False Bay coast in hopes of some Fynbos specialties. Fynbos is a plant kingdom on its own and is dominated by plant species such as and Ericas. The center of its range is in the Western Cape and we therefore focus our attention on getting all the Fynbos endemics. We started on the cliffs of Gordon’s Bay were we picked up specialties like Orange-breasted , and Cape Siskin. We only heard Cape Rockjumper, our main target, so we moved on to try for it again. Our next stop was at the sleepy coastal town of Rooiels where we picked up , one of the coolest birds in the country, with an extraordinary tail, not to mention one of two species in the endemic family of Sugarbirds. Moving on we went to Betty’s Bay and Stony Point to see the rare African Penguin, there is a sizable colony here that we easily see at close range. Watching the behaviour and antics of these flightless birds is always entertaining. We also picked up targets like Bank, Crowned, Cape, and Great Cormorants. Last stop of the day was at the beautiful Harold Porter Botanical Garden finding Cape Batis, Cape Sugarbird, Cape Francolin, Black Sawwing, Cape Grassbird, Sombre Greenbul, and a flyover Peregrine Falcon.

Jan 12th – West Coast

Today we go to the north of Cape Town into some Strandveld habitat in search of some more target birds. We focused our attention on West Coast National Park but also some other sites making this a very full day. Our first stop was at Koeburg power plant where we found our first Bokmakierie, a beautiful yellow bush- shrike. We also soon found Southern Boubou, Pearl-breasted Swallow, Cape Robin-, and Little Swift. But the main reason for the stop here is for the often difficult, cute, and tiny, Cape Pendulin-Tit. We came across 3 birds here with great views. Next we did the Darling flower loop a bit further north. Birds were plentiful, but the main target was Cloud Cisticola which we easily found in its amazing display flight into the clouds. Into west coast national park we had our first looks at the world’s largest , the Ostrich, as well as our first big mammals such as Eland and Red Haaretbeest. Migrant shorebirds are a big target here and we were successful in getting Chestnut-banded Plover, Marsh Sandpiper, Red Knot, Little Stint, and many more! Else where in the park Karoo Scrub-Robins and Long-billed Crombecs were plentiful alongside the slow Angulate Tortoises along the roadside. Further north to Patenoster we dipped on Cape Lark but were successful in finding Sickle-winged Chat and Grey Tit. On our way back through the park we finally found our target Black Bustard.

Black Bustard strutting its stuff (Scott Watson)

Blue Crane – South Africa’s national bird (Scott Watson)

Jan 13th – Cape Peninsula

We decided to start this morning in a birders heaven, and like usual it turns out to be a sewage works, this one called Strandfontein. We hoped to pick up a plethora of marsh birds and we did just that with; Maccoa Duck, Hottentot Teal, South African Shellduck, and Southern Pochard amongst others. Greater Flamongos covered the lagoons in pink, while LBJ’s such as Lesser Swamp-Warbler and Little Rush Warbler crept in the reeds. Onwards, we explored the scenically beautiful Cape Peninsula specifically Cape of Good Hope and Cape Point. The views are always stunning and the rugged ocean shores alive with Cape Cormorants and a few African Penguins feeding just offshore.

Cape of Good Hope on a beautiful clear day (Scott Watson)

Jan 14th – Gordon’s Bay and Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden

Today’s main goal was to finally find the Cape Rockjumper which is proving difficult, especially at this time of year. We tried Sir Lowry’s Pass in the early morning to no avail, so we went back to my favourite site at Gordon’s Bay. After a bit of effort we were finally able to spot a pair patrolling the rocky slopes. These energetic birds are in their own family, endemic to South Africa. This is one of two species of Rockjumper we hope to see this tour in order to get the family sweep! Next we explored the world famous Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden. Birds came fast and furious upon arrival at the garden. Here we found some endemics right off the bat including, Cape Francolin, Hartlaub’s Gull, Cape Bulbul, Karoo Prinia, Cape Batis, Southern Boubou, Southern Double-collared Sunbird, Cape White-eye, Cape Canary, and Forest Canary. This is surely one of the most beautiful gardens in the world, with Table Mountain looming overhead, an incredible view of Cape Town, and plants bursting with flower.

Lesser Double-collared Sunbird (Scott Watson)

Jan 15th – Cape Town to De Hoop NP

Today we start heading away from the Cape to new grounds. Driving east we finally made it to the true Overberg, the breadbasket of the Cape. An unnamed dirt road running to the north of De Hoop was our first birding spot. Right off the bat we heard and then saw Agulhas Long-billed Lark in display mode. Red- capped Larks, Thick-billed Larks, Capped Wheatears, and African Pipits were in really good numbers as we flushed them from the roadside. Soon enough some of our larger quarry showed up. First came the migrant White Storks, next our two target Bustard species. First we saw the very large Stanley Bustard, next came the much smaller pair of Karoo Bustards. As the day heated up we made it into De Hoop NP for a delicious lunch, and a rest in the shade joined by African Hoop and a few Horus Swifts. We then decided to bird the milkwood trees along the rivers edge where we had Southern Tchagra feeding in the undergrowth. Next we headed to the Potsberg area in hopes of finding some Cape Griffon’s flying back to their cliffs. We counted 35 of these beautiful yet endangered Vultures flying over. An Olive Woodpecker pair and a beautiful male Malichite Sunbird were are final birds of the day.

The beautiful Bontebok (Scott Watson)

Jan 16th – Victoria Bay and Wilderness NP

After a morning drive, our lunch stop at Victoria Bay not only provided us with a great lunch but also our first coastal forest birds including; Knysna Turaco, Greater Double-collared Sunbird, Black-bellied Starling, and frustratingly just a heard Knysna Warbler. We heard at least 2 different birds, and after at least an hour with the bird 4 feet away from our faces it wouldn’t show itself. It is unfortunate that this species prefers to live in the thickest vegetation ever known, and crawls around it like a scared mouse. In fact it should be considered a species of mouse, then guides everywhere wouldn’t have to go through the frustration of finding and getting good views of this species, what with its beautiful shades of brown. We will try a different location for this bird. As we left we also saw our first Vervet Monkeys. Next we drove to Wilderness where we would spend the next 2 nights. Our accommodation at Kingfisher house has very productive feeders, and on arrival we already had Knysna Turaco, Red-necked Spurfowl, Lemon Dove, Chorister Robin-Chat, Terrestrial Brownbul, Fork-tailed Drongo, Swee Waxbills, Forest Canaries, Amethyst Sunbird, and Mouse-coloured Sunbird. We had to peel ourselves away from the feeders so we could check out the birds hides at the small lakes within Wilderness NP. Our first stop yielded a few ducks plus African Spoonbills and Malachite Kingfisher while African Fish- Eagles flew overhead. A stop at Malachite Hide was a little slower but we concentrated our efforts on one bird, the ever so tough Red-chested Flufftail. Actually a fairly common bird its not too hard to hear one, but getting satisfying views is another story. After a bit of effort we finally had good views of a male and a juvenile as it cross a gap in the dense reeds. A great bird to finish off a long day.

Jan 17th – Wilderness NP

This morning we headed into the forest but we battling a bit of drizzle. Despite this we still found targets like Narina Trogon, Olive Bush-shrike, and Blue-mantled Flycatcher. We headed back for my favourite breakfast in Africa cooked by Sue at Kingfisher house. Not only is the food great but we can watch 12 species of other birds, including 4 Turaco’s. In the afternoon we headed to a patch of forest called big tree in hopes of the endemic Knysna Warbler. It took some time but we finally watched as it flew across the trail. Olive Woodpecker, Cape Batis, and Pin-tailed Whydah also made an appearance. As the rain moved in we retreated to check the ever-active feeders once more.

Narina Trogon, Wilderness NP (Scott Watson)

Jan 18th – Swartberg Pass to Karoo NP

After another great breakfast it was time to head due north towards Karoo NP but first through the spectacular Swartberg Pass. At our first stop we found the endemic Seedeater. A tough finch species which is very range restricted, only favouring healthy Protea stands. We also found Fairy Flycatcher, Cape Sugarbirds, Orange-breasted , and even Chacma Baboons here. Further up the beautiful pass we found a few Klipspingers hopping along the steep cliffs, while Mountain Wheatears flew about. On the other side of the pass to Proteas were in full bloom, and in a Restios dominated area we found the endemic Victorins Warbler singing its heart out. After scenic packed lunch surrounded by towering, knarled, cliffs, the gates opened and were outside of the pass and into the Karoo. A stop at a river wash gave us great looks at Pritit Batis, and White-throated Canary. Into Karoo NP we were excited to get into our first look at herds of big mammals. Cape Mountain Zebra, Burchell’s Zebra, Springbok, Red Haartbeest, Southern Oryx, and Greater Kudu were all in good numbers. As the day came to a close our last new birds were Karoo Chat, Karoo Lark, and the very cute Rufous-cheeked Warbler.

Cape Sugarbird sitting on a Protea at Swartberg Pass (Scott Watson)

Klipspringer on Swartberg Pass (Scott Watson)

Jan 19th – Karoo National Park

We started the morning exploring the campground before breakfast which typically is very birdy simply because it is a watery oasis. Karoo , Namaqua Warbler, Pied Barbet, Rufous-vented Warbler, African Hoopoe, Diderick Cuckoo, and even a migrant African Reed-Warbler were in attendance. We had to be careful not to mistake any of the huge Leopard Tortoises for large boulders strewn across the campground. After breakfast we started our game drive along the 45km Klipspringer Loop. This game drive covers a wide area of the north of the park from cliffs to open plains. Pale-chanting Goshawk and Booted Eagle were the first 2 raptors seen today, shortly followed by targets; Layard’s Warbler, Short-toed Rock- Thrush. Soon we were into some Larks including great birds like Karoo Long-billed Lark and Spike- heeled Lark. New mammals include Cape Hare, Vlei Rat, and Steenbok. After lunch the southern loop gave us more great views of big mammals as well as close encounters with many White-backed Mousebirds and Dusky Sunbird. Tonight we did a night drive, and although slightly rainy and windy we found some quality stuff. Rufous-cheeked Nightjar and a migrant European Nightjar lead the way in the bird department. We also saw our first feline, the African Wild Cat as it hunted its Gerbil prey.

White-backed Mousebird, Karoo NP (Scott Watson)

Jan 20th – Travel Day. Karoo National Park to Johannesburg

Jan 21st – Johannesburg to Wakkerstroom

It was dark when we arrived in Johannesburg yesterday, so new birds started just leaving our hotel to get to Wakkerstroom. In a residential neighbourhood a Red-throated Wryneck was heard calling. We eventually got great looks at this strange woodpecker, and at the same time our first Crested Barbet and Red-faced Mousebirds right in the hotel grounds, but we soon needed to be on our way. Just outside of the city we found our first Long-tailed Widowbird seemingly bouncing in the air. Further along a grass fire attracted some swallows, and among them was a South African Cliff Swallow. Now into some nice grassland habitat we had incredible views of the endemic Eastern Clapper Lark at the side of the road while nearby Red- winged Francolins foraged. Finally near the town of Wakkerstroom we stopped at the nearby lake and wetland for a scan. This was a great idea as it was pumping with new species. Among the many herons was our first Squacco Heron, although our eyes quickly shifted to a pair of Cape Clawless Otters fishing midday! One even came completely out of the water for everyone to see, and a new mammal for the tour. Later we had a flyby African Harrier-hawk, and shortly after, an African Wattled Lapwing, cruising right over our heads. Looking down again two Grey Crowned Cranes were found feeding in a distant field, while at the same time a Little Bittern was found in the marsh with scope views! The road and bridge made the perfect elevated vantage point to see everything here. After a great lunch at a local café with the best pumpkin soup we were off again to find some endemics in this unique Highveld habitat. These high elevation grasslands with old ranching practices feel like one is going back in time. If you were to go back 200 years it probably looked much the same now as it did then. Unfortunately we noticed some serious clouds were moving in, after seeing the striking Buff-streaked Chat and Ground Woodpecker. Soon after a well deserved nights rest was due for another long day.

Long-tailed Widowbird male in full display (Scott Watson)

Jan 22nd – Wakkerstroom area

Now equipped with our local guide Lucky we were off to find some endemics. With the rain subsided we started where we finished off yesterday looking for pipits. We found many African Pipits, Eastern Long- billed Larks, and Cape Longclaws initially, but we finally heard and then found the high priority endemic pipit of this region, Yellow-breasted Pipit. Our next place of business was the plains near Dirkiesdorp. On route we had our first Sentinel Rock Thrush, and Southern Bald Ibis, but once in the right we quickly spotted the endemic Barrow’s (White-bellied) Korhaan. Our next order of business was a remnant Afro- montane forest patch where we saw all of our main targets, namely; Bush Blackcap, African Yellow Warbler, Drakensberg Prinia, Broad-tailed Grassbird, Rock-loving Cisticola, Pale-crowned Cisticola, and the often tough Barratt’s Warbler. This endemic Bradypterus unfortunately behaves much the same as Knysna Warbler. We even got to see this bird in the scope! Something I have never done before. After lunch we went on our much needed Lark hunt. Lucky knows of a great sheep grazing field, and indeed we found all our endemic lark species here. We found the two prize targets, Rudd’s Lark, and Botha’s Lark as well as another Eastern Long-billed Lark. Both Rudd’s and Botha’s larks are highly threatened species with extremely small, patchy, ranges. Another stop on the road yielded Lazy, Wailing, and Wing-snapping Cisticola’s, but adding a little color to the scene was a crowd favourite Violet-backed Starling. A final stop got us onto a pair of Blue Bustards which we were actually able to walk up to. Alas our day was very successful in finding the needed endemics of the region.

The endangered Rudd’s Lark, Wakkerstroom (Scott Watson)

Jan 23rd – Wakkerstroom to Kruger National Park

This morning we still needed one more target in the Wakkerstroom area, the beautiful Black-bellied Bustard. After a few minutes of searching we heard the distinctive call of this bird giving itself away as it crept in the tall grass. Our goal was to make it to Kruger as quick as possible, so there were few stops until lunch near the Malelane Gate at the southern end of the park. Even before entering the park the gate gardens held quite a few new birds including; Red-billed Hornbill, Purple Roller, Grey Tit-Flycatcher (only one of the tour), Scarlet-chested Sunbird, and Village Weaver. We were to stay at Berg-en-dal rest camp tonight in the southern end of the park, so we had some time left in the day to do some birding. New birds were fast and furious, with plenty of new raptors. Bateleur and Martial Eagle were major highlights as were both White- backed and Lappet-faced Vultures. Shortly after seeing a Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill perched above a Dwarf Mongoose attending a termite mound. Shortly after we would see our African Elephant, Cape Buffalo, and even White Rhinoceros attended by Red-billed Oxpecker and Burchell’s Starling. It has been a long day but we still did the night drive, and it was very enjoyable. We found dozens of Spotted Eagle-Owls feeding along the roadside, along with both Fiery-necked and Square-tailed Nightjars. New mammals include Honey Badger (Ratal), and South African Galago (Bushbaby). A super long day equals a great nights rest.

African Elephant sniffing us out (Scott Watson)

Jan 24th – Berg-en-dal to Skukuza

We awoke this morning to new bird sounds, and before breakfast we did some birding around Satara Camp. The gaudy Crested Barbet was simply hanging around the bungalows, as were Chinspot Batis, Tawny- flanked Prinia, Brubru, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Orange-breasted Bush-Shrike, White-browed Robin-Chat, Lesser Honeyguide, Golden-tailed Woodpecker, and many more! Game drives along the river during the day got us on to African Buffalo, Elephant, Giraffe, Greater Kudu, Impala, Waterbuck, and plenty of Hippo, but also major target birds like Shelley’s Francolin. Migrant birds were everywhere, and the colour was booming from the flocks of European and Southern Carmine Bee-eaters. More colour was given off by the plentiful Lilac-breasted, Broad-billed, and Rufous-crowned Rollers. Both White and Retz’s Helmetshrike flock made appearances this afternoon, a favourite family by all. Tonight’s night drive was the best yet, mainly for mammals. We started off with a White-tailed Mongoose, an often tough to see nocturnal mongoose species. But our attention was quickly turned as we heard the distinctive laugh of a Spotted Hyena. We finally found its eye-shine and were able to track it down, but to our surprise there was a small group of hyenas who were busy pestering a pride of 9 Lions! They had made a kill, but had finished the feed and were moving on. Before we knew it the vehicle was surrounded by the pride while slowly creeping up the road. They looked at us with a little curiosity but were uninterested. There size is amazing, and simply look like the top predators in the bushveld. A truly memorable night drive.

Crested Barbet, Kruger NP (Scott Watson)

Golden-breasted Bunting, Kruger NP (Scott Watson)

Jan 25th – Skukuza

Some birding before breakfast today around the rest camp was very enjoyable. Emerald-spotted Wood- Dove, Brown-headed Parrot, Purple-crested Turaco, Pied Cuckoo, and Red-faced Mousebird were all evident around our bungalows. Just before heading in to breakfast a Green Wood-Hoopoe came in close, as did Southern Black-Tit, White-bellied, and Marico Sunbirds. Game drives in the morning produced 3 of the “Big 5”, as well as close views of African Buffalo, African Elelphant, and White Rhino. We also had a kingfisher quartet or; African Pygmy Kingfisher, Woodland Kingfisher, Striped Kingfisher, and Pied Kingfisher. South of the camp a rocky outcrop was good habitat of a pair of Mocking Cliff-Chat as well as the crazy plumage of Eastern Paradise-Whydah. The night drive tonight may have been the best night drive I have ever been on in Kruger NP. Firstly our main target was clearly Leopard in order to complete the ever important “Big 5”. As it would be, less than 200m from the camp fence, we found a Leopard on the prowl beside the road!! What an incredible beast. We got the big 5!! This night drive was also mega for birds and we cleaned up on owls, namely; African Scops-Owl, Southern White-faced Owl, Spotted Eagle-Owl, Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl, and Square-tailed Nightjar. What a haul!

Leopard, Kruger NP (Scott Watson)

Jan 26th – Skukuza to Hazyview

This mornings drive out of the park was all about raptors; Black-chested Snake-Eagle, Brown Snake- Eagle, Tawny Eagle, Wahlberg’s Eagle, and African Hawk-Eagle all gave nice views. Closer to the gate we found an isolated pond with a breeding male Comb Duck, a bizarre bird indeed. Although, the biggest surprise was by far the pack of Wild Dogs! This highly threatened canine is a very tough mammal to get in Kruger so we were happy to soak in the views as we watched the pack communicate and eventually rest in the midday heat. What a bonus! Kruger will always have a surprise. We eventually made it through the scenic Abel Erasmus area out side of the park, and then our overnight in the town of Hazeyview.

Wild Dog, Kruger NP (Scott Watson)

Water Thick-Knee, Mkuze GR (Scott Watson)

Jan 27th – Hazyview to Mkuze Game Reserve

Today was a bit of a travel day in order to get further south to Mkuze. We had time to bird the entrance road for a while. A few new birds this afternoon included; Woolly-necked Stork, Grey-headed Bushshrike, Bearded Scrub-Robin. After a great dinner we retired to our beautiful rooms for the night.

Jan 28th – Mkuze Game Reserve to St. Lucia

Today we explore the highly diverse Mkuze Game Reserve. Home to all of the big mammals, and many similar birds to Kruger NP, but it also has many Sandforest targets you can’t get elsewhere. Our first bird target was Neergaard’s Sunbird, a range restricted species which we had no problem finding at a known site within the park. Soon after we found our next target, Pink-throated Twinspot, hanging around some undergrowth near a water hole. Further along the main road we stumbled upon what I think may have been the biggest surprise of the entire tour. Sleeping directly on the side of the road was a beautiful Bronze- winged Courser!! This shy nocturnal species is erratic and hard to track down even in the best of conditions. Into some open plains we found our first Flappet Lark and Desert Cisticola soon followed by an often tough to find Grey Tit-Flycatcher. As the day started to close we exited the park in the east side to check the flooded Muzi Pan. On route we found a near endemic Lemon-breasted Canary and at the pan birds were booming including good numbers of African Jacana, Yellow-billed Stork, and even a few very large Trumpeter Hornbills. We made our way south all the way to the coast to St. Lucia this evening.

Bronze-winged Courser, Mkuze GR (Scott Watson)

Jan 29th – St. Lucia to Eshowe

Our target destination this morning is beautiful Cape Vidal but once we exited our rooms in the morning we decided to stick around for a while as we got nearly all our targets on the lodge grounds! Without walking anywhere we found; Livingston’s Turaco, Red-chested Cuckoo, Klaas’s Cuckoo, White-eared Barbet, Square-tailed Drongo, Rudd’s Apalis, Eastern Olive Sunbird, Purple-banded Sunbird, African Golden Weaver. A serious haul considering this was all before 7am!! Into Cape Vidal, a large open plain along the coast we needed some more targets, and the first couple we found we in the open perched on telephone wires. First being the colourful Blue-cheeked Bee-eater and second the range restricted Fasciated Snake-Eagle. Into the camp ground at the north end of the park we found a couple troops of Samango Monkeys foraging in the trees. And after a bit of effort we cleaned up our other targets, namely; Brown Scrub-Robin, Woodward’s Batis, Southern Brown-throated Weaver, Forest Weaver. This afternoon we made our way south to the town of Eshowe.

White-browed (Burchell’s) Coucal, Cape Vidal (Scott Watson)

Jan 30th – Eshowe (Dlinza Forest) and Ongoye Forest

Today proved to be a jam packed day, full of needed targets, and there is no better place to start than at the top of a canopy tower in Dlinza Forest with a backed breakfast. After a couple of hour we came away with 2 big targets both found since they were singing at the top of 100 foot trees and we were right at eye level. The first was the often tricky to see African Emerald Cuckoo, the second the seriously rare Delegorgue’s (Eastern Bronze-naped) Pigeon. Checking out the trails we got into one flock which contained the sneaky Yellowbill, and frustratingly noisy Red-fronted Tinkerbird. Next we headed straight for Ongoye Forest where it took no less than 30 minutes to find our targets. First was the active Yellow-streaked Greenbul, but next was a major target, the endemic of Green Barbet, of which we saw 4 birds! It is sad to see how small the tiny forest patch is that these birds are stuck in, although for now at least it is protected.

African Golden Weaver (Scott Watson)

Jan 31st – Eshowe to Mutuzini to Underberg

This morning we went back to the coast to check out the mangroves of Mutuzini. On arrival we found the largest target, the beautiful pied coloured Palm-nut Vulture. On a nearby dead palm sat an adult Long- crested Eagle checking out its surroundings. The mangrove lagoons are also great for shorebirds during these winter months. We saw 2 new shorebirds both of which are pretty good birds; the cute Terek Sandpiper, and Green Sandpiper. Into some Palm forest we dipped on a Wattle-eye but managed to get great looks at Tambourine Dove and Marico Sunbird. Alas it was time to make the long drive west toward Underberg and the Lesotho border.

African Hoopoe (Scott Watson)

Feb 1st – Sani Pass

Our final day of birding, and what a day it was climbing the switchbacks up into the mountain top country of Lesotho. We will be birding the Drakenberg mountains also knows as the “Barrier of Spears”. We will drive in 4x4’s today up Sani Pass which is an entrance into Lesotho. The pass itself is only manageable on 4x4 and is basically 9kms of switchbacks. Our journey began with a nice breakfast at sunrise while we watched the endemic Gurney’s Sugarbird thereby completing the Sugarbird family for the tour. Our next stop got us ridiculous close views of Drakensberg Rockjumper, a pair, jumping around on the rocks. This also completed our family sweep for Rockjumpers! At the same site we happened to look up and see our next big target flying around with Cape Griffons, the “bone-collector” yes the Lammergeier. Just when we thought it was over suddenly a Verreaux’s Eagle came screaming from the cliffs to start an aerial battle with the Lammergeier. They twisted and turned and we could even hear the wind screaming off of their massive wings. Up and up we went and on the way we stopped for Drakensberg Siskin, another endemic. Nearing the top, and without looking down, we had made it to the border of Lesotho. And after going through customs we made our way to the highest pub in Africa for a toast to the tour. But we couldn’t linger as we had some more targets for a new country. After checking out the cool Slogget’s Ice Rat we continued on for Mountain Pipit of which we easily found over 10 birds. Our last new bird in Lesotho was African Black Duck, and after great scope views we needed to make our way back down. More great scenery to be had on the way down, plus great views of Mountain Reedbuck which would be our last new mammal of the tour.

All in all this was a fantastic tour of extreme diversity. A tour none of us will forget in a hurry.

The view going up Sani Pass, the 12 Apostles (Scott Watson)

Drakensberg Rockjumper & Lammergeier chasing Verreaux’s Eagle (Scott Watson)

Going down Sani Pass (Scott Watson)

Bird List: As per Clements 6.6 August 2012

Struthionidae (Ostrich) Common Ostrich Anatidae (Ducks, Geese, and Waterfowl) White-faced (Whistling-) Duck White-backed Duck Comb (Knob-billed) Duck Egyptian Goose South African Shelduck Spur-winged Goose Mallard African Black Duck Yellow-billed Duck Cape Shoveler Red-billed Duck (Teal) Hottentot Teal Cape Teal Southern Pochard Maccoa Duck Numididae (Guineafowl) Helmeted Guineafowl Crested Guineafowl Phasianidae (Pheasants, Grouse, and Allies) Crested Francolin Grey-winged Francolin Red-winged Francolin Shelley's Francolin Cape Francolin Natal Francolin Red-necked Spurfowl (Francolin) Common Quail Phoenicopteridae (Flamingos) Greater Flamingo Lesser Flamingo Podicipedidae (Grebes) Little Grebe Great Crested Grebe Eared (Black-necked) Grebe Spheniscidae (Penguins) Jackass Penguin Procellariidae (Shearwaters and Petrels) White-chinned Petrel Ciconiidae (Storks) White Stork Woolly-necked Stork Yellow-billed Stork Marabou Stork Saddle-billed Stork Sulidae (Boobies and Gannets) Cape Gannet Phalacrocoracidae (Cormorants and Shags) Great (White-breasted) Cormorant Cape Cormorant Bank Cormorant Long-tailed (Reed) Cormorant Crowned Cormorant Anhingidae (Anhingas) African Darter Pelecanidae (Pelicans) Great White Pelican Pink-backed Pelican Scopidae (Hamerkop) Hamerkop Ardeidae (Herons, Egrets, and Bitterns) Little Bittern Grey Heron Black-headed Heron Purple Heron Great (White) Egret Intermediate (Yellow-billed) Egret Little Egret Cattle Egret Squacco Heron Striated (Green-backed) Heron Black-crowned Night-Heron Threskiornithidae (Ibises and Spoonbills) Glossy Ibis (African) Sacred Ibis Hadeda Ibis Southern Bald Ibis African Spoonbill Pandionidae (Osprey) Osprey Accipitridae (Hawks, Eagles, and Kites) African Cuckoo Hawk Black-shouldered Kite Black (Yellow-billed) Kite African Fish-Eagle Palm-nut Vulture Hooded Vulture Lammergeier White-backed Vulture Cape Griffon (Vulture) Lappet-faced Vulture Black-breasted (-chested) Snake-Eagle Brown Snake-Eagle Fasciated Snake-Eagle Bateleur African Marsh-Harrier African Harrier Hawk (Gymnogene) Pale Chanting-Goshawk African Goshawk Shikra Little Sparrowhawk Rufous-chested Sparrowhawk Black Goshawk (Great Sparrowhawk) Common (Steppe) Buzzard Mountain Buzzard Jackal Buzzard Tawny Eagle Steppe Eagle Verreaux's Eagle African Hawk-Eagle Wahlberg's Eagle Booted Eagle Martial Eagle Long-crested Eagle Crowned Hawk-Eagle Sagittariidae (Secretary-bird) Secretarybird Falconidae (Falcons and Caracaras) Eurasian (Rock) Kestrel Greater Kestrel Amur Falcon Eurasian Hobby Lanner Falcon Peregrine Falcon Otididae (Bustards) Stanley Bustard White-bellied Bustard Blue Bustard Karoo Bustard Black Bustard Black-bellied Bustard Rallidae (Rails, Gallinules, and Coots) Red-chested Flufftail Buff-spotted Flufftail African Rail Black Crake (African) Purple Swamphen Eurasian (Common) Moorhen Lesser Moorhen Red-knobbed Coot Gruidae (Cranes) Grey Crowned-Crane Blue Crane Burhinidae (Thick-knees) Spotted Thick-knee Water Thick-knee Charadriidae (Plovers and Lapwings) Blacksmith Lapwing White-headed Lapwing Crowned Lapwing (African) Wattled Lapwing Black-bellied (Grey) Plover Kittlitz's Plover Common Ringed Plover Three-banded Plover White-fronted Plover Chestnut-banded Plover Haematopodidae (Oystercatchers) African Black Oystercatcher Recurvirostridae (Stilts and Avocets) Black-winged Stilt Pied Avocet Jacanidae (Jacanas) African Jacana Scolopacidae (Sandpipers and Allies) Terek Sandpiper Common Sandpiper Common Greenshank Marsh Sandpiper Wood Sandpiper Green Sandpiper Whimbrel Ruddy Turnstone Red Knot Sanderling Little Stint Curlew Sandpiper Ruff African Snipe Glareolidae (Pratincoles and Coursers) Bronze-winged Courser Laridae (Gulls, Terns, and Skimmers) Grey-hooded (-headed) Gull Hartlaub's Gull Kelp Gull Caspian Tern Great Crested Tern Sandwich Tern Common Tern Little Tern Whiskered Tern White-winged Tern Columbidae (Pigeons and Doves) Rock Pigeon Speckled Pigeon Rameron Pigeon Delegorgue’s Pigeon Lemon Dove Red-eyed Dove Ring-necked (Cape Turtle) Dove Laughing Dove Emerald-spotted Wood-Dove Tambourine Dove Namaqua Dove African Green-Pigeon Psittacidae (Parrots) Brown-necked (Grey-headed) Parrot Brown-headed Parrot Musophagidae (Turacos) Livingston's Turaco Knysna Turaco Purple-crested Turaco Grey Go-away Bird Cuculidae (Cuckoos) Pied Cuckoo Levaillant's Cuckoo Red-chested Cuckoo Klaas's Cuckoo African Emerald Cuckoo Diderick Cuckoo Yellowbill White-browed (Burchell's) Coucal Tytonidae (Barn-Owls) Barn Owl Strigidae (Owls) African Scops-Owl Southern White-faced (Scops-) Owl Spotted Eagle-Owl Verreaux's (Giant) Eagle-Owl Pearl-spotted Owlet Caprimulgidae (Nightjars and Allies) European Nightjar Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Fiery-necked Nightjar Square-tailed Nightjar Apodidae (Swifts) Alpine Swift Common (European) Swift African Swift Little Swift Horus Swift White-rumped Swift African Palm-Swift Coliidae (Mousebirds) Speckled Mousebird White-backed Mousebird Red-faced Mousebird Trogonidae (Trogons) Narina Trogon Alcedinidae (Kingfishers) Malachite Kingfisher African Pygmy Kingfisher Grey-headed Kingfisher Woodland Kingfisher Brown-hooded Kingfisher Striped Kingfisher Pied Kingfisher Meropidae (Bee-eaters) White-fronted Bee-eater Little Bee-eater Blue-cheeked Bee-eater European Bee-eater Southern Carmine Bee-eater Coraciidae (Rollers) European Roller Lilac-breasted Roller Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller Broad-billed Roller Upupidae (Hoopoes) Eurasian (African) Hoopoe Phoeniculidae (Woodhoopoes and Scimitar- bills) Green Woodhoopoe Common Scimitar-bill Bucerotidae (Hornbills) Southern Red-billed Hornbill Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Crowned Hornbill African Gray Hornbill Trumpeter Hornbill Lybiidae (African Barbets) Crested Barbet White-eared Barbet Green Barbet Yellow-rumped Tinkerbird Red-fronted Tinkerbird Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird (Acacia) Pied Barbet Black-collared Barbet Indicatoridae (Honeyguides) Wahlberg's Honeyguide (Brown-backed) Lesser Honeyguide Picidae (Woodpeckers) Rufous-necked Wryneck Bennett's Woodpecker Golden-tailed Woodpecker Ground Woodpecker Cardinal Woodpecker Bearded Woodpecker Olive Woodpecker Platysteiridae (Wattle-eyes and Batises) Cape Batis Woodward's Batis Chinspot Batis Pririt Batis Prionopidae (Helmetshrikes and Allies) White (-crested) Helmetshrike Retz's Helmetshrike Malaconotidae (Bushshrikes and Allies) Brubru Black-backed Puffback Black-crowned Tchagra Brown-crowned Tchagra Southern Tchagra Southern Boubou Bokmakierie Sulphur (Orange-)breasted Bushshrike Olive Bushshrike Four-colored Bushshrike Grey-headed Bushshrike Campephagidae (Cuckoo-shrikes) Grey Cuckoo-shrike Black Cuckoo-shrike Laniidae (Shrikes) Red-backed Shrike Lesser Grey Shrike Southern Fiscal Magpie Shrike Oriolidae (Old World Orioles) African Golden-Oriole African Black-headed Oriole Dicruridae (Drongos) Square-tailed Drongo Fork-tailed Drongo Monarchidae (Monarch Flycatchers) African Crested-Flycatcher African Paradise Flycatcher Corvidae (Crows, Jays, and Magpies) House Crow Cape Crow Pied Crow White-necked Raven Chaetopidae (Rockjumpers) Cape Rockjumper Drakensberg Rockjumper Alaudidae (Larks) Rufous-naped Lark Flappet Lark Cape Clapper Lark Eastern Clapper Lark Rudd's Lark Sabota Lark Karoo Lark Spike-heeled Lark Agulhas Lark Eastern Long-billed Lark Karoo Long-billed Lark Red-capped Lark Botha's Lark Large-billed Lark Hirundinidae (Swallows) Plain (Brown-throated) Martin Banded Martin Rock Martin Barn Swallow White-throated Swallow Wire-tailed Swallow Pearl-breasted Swallow Greater Striped-Swallow Lesser Striped-Swallow Rufous-chested (-breasted) Swallow Mosque Swallow South African (Cliff) Swallow Common House-Martin Black Sawwing (Fairy Flycatchers) Fairy Flycatcher Paridae (Chickadees and Tits) Southern Black Tit Grey Tit Remizidae (Penduline-Tits) Southern (Cape) Penduline-Tit Pycnonotidae (Bulbuls) Sombre Greenbul Yellow-bellied Greenbul Yellow-streaked Greenbul Terrestrial Brownbul Black-fronted (A.Red-eyed) Bulbul Common (Dark-capped) Bulbul Cape Bulbul Macrosphenidae (African Warblers) Cape (Long-billed) Crombec Cape Grassbird Victorin's Warbler Phylloscopidae (Leaf-Warblers) Yellow-throated Wood-Warbler Willow Warbler Acrocephalidae (Reed-Warblers and Allies) Icterine Warbler African Yellow Warbler African Reed-Warbler Great Reed Warbler Greater Swamp-Warbler Lesser Swamp-Warbler Locustellidae (Grassbirds and Allies) Little Rush Warbler Knysna Warbler Barratt's Warbler Broad-tailed Grassbird Cisticolidae (Cisticolas and Allies) Bar-throated Apalis Yellow-breasted Apalis Rudd's Apalis Green-backed Camaroptera Rufous-eared Warbler Red-faced Cisticola Rock-loving (Lazy) Cisticola Rattling Cisticola Red-headed (Grey-backed) Cisticola Wailing Cisticola Tinkling (Levaillant's) Cisticola Croaking Cisticola Piping Cisticola (Neddicky) Zitting Cisticola Desert Cisticola Cloud Cisticola Pale-crowned Cisticola Wing-snapping (Ayres') Cisticola Tawny-flanked Prinia Karoo (Spotted) Prinia Drakensberg Prinia Namaqua Warbler Greencap Eremomela Sylviidae (Old World Warblers) Bush Blackcap Layard's Warbler (Tit-Babbler) Rufous-vented Warbler Zosteropidae (Yuhinas, White-eyes, and Allies) African Yellow White-eye Cape White-eye Leiothrichidae (Laughingthrushes) Arrow-marked Babbler Promeropidae (Sugarbirds) Gurney's Sugarbird Cape Sugarbird Muscicapidae (Old World Flycatchers) Pale Flycatcher Chat Flycatcher Southern Black Flycatcher Fiscal Flycatcher Spotted Flycatcher Dusky-brown Flycatcher Ashy Flycatcher Gray Tit-Flycatcher Karoo Scrub-robin Bearded Scrub-Robin Red-backed (W.-browed) Scrub-Robin Brown Scrub-robin Cape Robin-Chat White-browed Robin-Chat Red-capped Robin-Chat Chorister Robin-chat Short-toed Rock-Thrush Sentinel Rock Thrush Cape Rock Thrush (African) Stonechat Buff-streaked Bushchat Southern Anteater-Chat Mocking Cliff-Chat Sicklewing Chat Karoo Chat Familiar Chat Capped Wheatear Turdidae (Thrushes and Allies) Groundscraper Thrush Kurrichane Thrush Olive Thrush Karoo Thrush Sturnidae (Starlings) EuropeanStarling Common Myna Wattled Starling Cape Glossy-Starling Greater Blue-eared Starling Burchell's Glossy-Starling Black-bellied Glossy-Starling Violet-backed Starling African Pied Starling Red-winged Starling Pale-winged Starling Buphagidae (Oxpeckers) Red-billed Oxpecker Nectariniidae (Sunbirds and Spiderhunters) Collared Sunbird Orange-breasted Sunbird Mouse-colored Sunbird Amethyst Sunbird Scarlet-chested Sunbird Malachite Sunbird Eastern Olive Sunbird Neergaard’s Sunbird Southern Double-collared Sunbird Greater Double-collared Sunbird Mariqua (Marico) Sunbird Purple-banded Sunbird White-breasted (-bellied) Sunbird Dusky Sunbird Motacillidae (Wagtails and Pipits) Cape Wagtail African Pied Wagtail African Pipit Mountain Pipit Long-billed Pipit Plain-backed Pipit Yellow-tufted (African Rock) Pipit Bush Pipit Yellow-breasted Pipit Orange-throated (Cape) Longclaw Yellow-throated Longclaw Emberizidae (Buntings, Sparrows and Allies) Lark-like Bunting Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Cape Bunting Golden-breasted Bunting Fringillidae (Siskins, Crossbills, and Allies) Common Chaffinch Cape Siskin Drakensberg Siskin Black-headed Canary Cape Canary Yellow-fronted Canary Forest Canary Black-throated Canary Lemon-breasted Seedeater Brimstone Canary Yellow Canary White-throated Canary Protea Canary Streaky-headed Seedeater Passeridae (Old World Sparrows) House Sparrow Cape Sparrow Southern Grey-headed Sparrow Yellow-throated Petronia Ploceidae (Weavers and Allies) Red-headed Weaver Spectacled Weaver Cape Weaver African Golden Weaver Southern Brown-throated Weaver Lesser Masked Weaver Southern Masked-Weaver Village Weaver Forest (Dark-backed) Weaver Red-billed Quelea (Southern) Red Bishop Yellow-crowned Bishop Yellow Bishop White-winged Widowbird Fan-tailed Widowbird Red-collared Widowbird Long-tailed Widowbird (Widow) Estrildidae (Waxbills and Allies) Swee Waxbill Common Waxbill Blue-breasted Cordonbleu Pink-throated Twinspot Green-winged Pytilia Red-billed Firefinch African Firefinch Jameson's Firefinch Bronze Mannikin Magpie Mannikin Viduidae (Indigobirds) Pin-tailed Whydah Eastern (Long-tailed) Paradise-Whydah Village Indigobird Variable Indigobird MAMMAL SPECIES Rodentia: Rodents Striped Mouse Tree Squirrel Sloggett’s Ice Rat Vlei Rat Lagomorpha: Hares Cape Hare Scrub Hare Phocidae: Seals & Sealions Cape Fur Seal Cercopithecidae: Cheek-pouched Monkeys Chacma Baboon Vervet Monkey Samango Monkey Galagidae : Galagoes South African Galago Canidae: Dogs & allies Black-backed Jackal Wild Dog Hyaenidae: Hyaenas Spotted Hyena Viverridae: Genets & Civets Blotched Genet Common (Small-spotted) Genet Felidae: Cats African Wild Cat Lion Leopard Herpestidae: Mongooses Banded Mongoose White-tailed Mongoose Small (Cape) Grey Mongoose Slender Mongoose Dwarf Mongoose Yellow Mongoose Suricate (Meerkat) Mustelidae: Mustelids Ratel (Honey Badger) Spot-necked Otter Procavidae: Hyraxes Cape Rock Hyrax Elephantidae: Elephants (African) Elephant Giraffidae: Giraffes Giraffe Equidae: Horses Cape Mountain Zebra Burchell's Zebra Hippopotamidae: Hippopotamuses Hippopotamus Rhinocerotidae: Rhinoceroses White Rhino Suidae: Pigs Warthog Bovidae: Horned Ungulates African (Cape) Buffalo Eland Greater Kudu Nyala Bushbuck Gemsbok (Southern Oryx) Common Waterbuck Springbok Mountain Reedbuck Southern Reedbuck Grey Rhebok Blue Wildebeest Red Haartebeest Bontebok Blesbok Impala Klipspringer Steenbok Bush (Common) Duiker