25 CENTS A COPY. NOTICE TO READER: When you finish reading this magazine place a I cent stamp on this notice, hand same to any postal employee and it will be placed in the hands of our soldiers or March, 1919. sailors at the front. No wrapping—no address. A. S. BURLESON, Postmaster-General. Vol. XVII., No. 3

OFFICIAL ORGAN OF THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION ERs/ r'r. OF

HMLTN CLOSED DU 620 .M5

UNITED STATES AUSTRALASIA HAWAII ORIENT Am. News. Co. Gordon & Gotch Pan-Pacific Union Kelly & Walsh The Pacific Northwest-- The World's New Wonderland

Both, as America's all-year-round vacation and recreation land, as well as the undoubted future seat of the great commercial and shipping center of the Pacific Coast, the vast Puget Sound country has awakened with a start and is reaching out to every land about the Great Ocean. British Columbia, Oregon and Washington have clapsed hands first, through their really international Northwest Tourist Association, which is making this region the great tourist resort for Americans and Pacific people, but now through her commercial bodies, which seek to lock hands with all other Pacific commer- cial bodies, this Northwest region reaches out for the commerce of the Pacific. From the mighty Canadian Frazier River on the North to the equally mighty Columbia on the South, this vast Puget Sound country that in its area contains the scenic wonders of the world, has grasped the fact that she is to become one of the world's greatest commercial empires. Here are being built, ships and ship- yards as only Britain built these in times. gone by ; thege. 'shipyards now springing up to restore the shipping of the world, will not be dismantled, they will create the shipping of the, Pacific and firmly establish the position of the mighty North- west in the commerce of our greatest of oceans, a commerce that is to not only astonish the world beyond, but even the very leaders of the two-thirds of the world's population that live and thrive in Pacific lands. The future theatre of the world's commerce is the Pacific. The curtain is about to be raised on the world's new commercial drama; the first act may well be con- ceived to lay in the Puget Sound land where the great and growing cities of Victoria, Vancouver, Seattle, Tacoma and Portland strive in friendly rivalry for the commerce and the shipping that is more than enough to crowd their every dock and even demand the creation of great new cities that we dream not of today, but that will become realities of tomorrow, perhaps to spring up as if by magic as did the shipbuilding of the Puget Sound country. A new commercial era has dawned in the Northwest, largely of her own creating. New ambitions pulse in the land, and already Seattle has become the lead- ing shipping port on the entire Pacific Coast of North and South America ; new men and enterprises are pouring into the wonderful invigorating Northwest. No longer do Seattle and her sister cities depend upon the trade of Alaska for their prosperity. The commerce of the Pacific becomes their heritage, and the moun- tains. rivers and fjords of the Northwest are now lodked upon as the tempting vacation ground of the whole world. In Honolulu, at the Cross-roads of the Pacific, the Pan-Pacific Union and the Hawaii Promotion Committee gladly welcome those passing through with information about this Northwest country, but for detailed information it is best to write Herbert Cuthbert, Secretary of the Pacific Northwest Tourist Associ- ation, L. C. Smith Building, Seattle, Wash, U. S. A. T11r ifiiii-Parifir flittgazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD Vol. XVII. No. 3.

CONTENTS FOR MARCH, 1919.

Our Art Gallery—Who's Who in the Pan-Pacific Union. A Pan-Pacific Foreign Trade Club - - - - - 217 ■9 - - - - 223 ',-4, The Pan-Pacific Tourist Bureau - (-• 0, - - - - - 227 A Congress of Pacific Banks 1920 .---•i The American Indian and the Red Cross - - - 229 By Wentworth G. Field. Peopling the Pacfic - - - - - - - - 233 By J. McMillan Brown (Continued) New Year in Tokyo - - - - - - 239 By T. Suzuki. Australia as a Manufacturing Nation - - - - 245 By Ambrose Pratt. A Little Trip to Old Vigan - - - - - 249 By A. Dale Riley. Lahainaluna - - - - - - - - - 253 By Margaret B. MacDonald. Motoring in New Zealand - - - - - 257 By li;Isic K. Morton. The Island of Sumatra - - - - - - - 261 By P. V. Cruet. The New and Old East - - - - - - 265 By J. W Allen. Kona's Fourth of July - - - - - - - 269 By Albert S. Baker. Circular Quay, Sydney - - - - - - - 275 With the Olympian Indians - - - - - - 279 1/4.9 By Marion Randall Parsons. .Q) The Crater of Savaii - - - - - - - 281 ,.... By Oscar rojnich. N The Russian Priest of Yesterday - - - - - 285 By Alexander Huine Ford.

Oise II: id-Farnir fi: agazinr Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, $3.00. Single copies, 25c. Entered as second-class matter at the Honolulu Postoffice.

Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine. 4,.. A. Lewis, Jr., manager of the Bank of Hawaii, is chairman of the committee of the Pan-Pacific Union composed of the heads of all of the banks and trust companies in Hawaii that will ar- range the details of the proposed Pan-Pacific financial confer- ence in. Honolulu in 1920. Mr. Lewis has just been elected first vice-president of the Honolulu Chamber of Commerce. Richard H. Trent, President of the Trent Trust Company, was one of the organizers of the Pan-Pacific movement a decade ago. He is now on the executive committee that is to call the Pan- Pacific Finance Conference in 1920. As one of the foremost citizens he has turned the extensive grounds of his home into a semi-public park. It is the spirit of Hawaii. George P. Castle, the foremost philanthropist in Hawaii, was born in the islands and has been one of the supporters of the Pan- Pacific Union since its inception, he may be said to be an honorary director, he is an active director in many of the largest corporations in the islands. George N. Wilcox, a director of the Pan-Pacific Union, the philan- thropist of Kauai island, is known for the great good that he does. He was born in Hawaii eighty years ago and is still active in his welfare work. Dr. S. Rhee, a director of the Pan-Pacific Union, Korean by birth, is cc- graduate of. Princeton, studying under Woodrow Wilson, president of the Pan-Pacific Union and of the United States. Dr. Rhee is at the head of the Korean schools in Hawaii.

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Dr. Iga Mori, a director of the Pan-Pacific Union, is the foremost of the hundred thousand Japanese in Hawaii. He was educated in the Universities of Japan, America and Europe. He is one of the honored men among all races in Hawaii, which he has made his home. John Guild, a director of the Pan-Pacific Union, is one of the heads of Alexander & Baldwin, the foremost sugar firm in Hawaii. A friend of the movement from its inception, he has been one of the ardent workers for friendly cooperation among the peoples of the Pacific. y:$

Frank F. Baldwin. a director of the Pan-Pacific Union. is the com- mercial king of the island of Maui, and one of the great philan- thropists of the Hawaiian islands. several times president of the Maui Chamber of Commerce and the Polo Association, he is a leader among men in Hawaii. Mayor Joseph Fern of Honolulu is a self-made native Hawaiian and leader of his people, he has long been a worker in the Pan- Pacific Union. Twice mayor of Honolulu, it is likely that he will officially open some of the different conferences that will make up the Pan-Pacific Congress of 1920 in Honolulu. Ernest Kaai, the Hawaiian musical composer, is known entirely around the Pacific. He is chairman of the Hawaiian Commit- tee of the Pan-Pacific Tourist Bureau in Honolulu, and arranges native entertainments that delight visitors to the Hawaiian Islands. E. Faxon Bishop, manager of the oldest American institution west of the Rockies. C. Brewer & Co., sugar factors. began his career with that concern. ex-president and present director of the Sugar Planters' Association. has shown his interest in the work of the Pan-Pacific Union, especially in its program for rehousing the laborers of Pacific races on the sugar plantations in Hawaii. COMECCCOILDIDIE01==0:03

George R. Carter, ex-governor of Hawaii, director of a score of finan- cial concerns, and a dollar a year organizer for the Red Cross, believes that a Pan-Pacific conference of the leaders of Red Cross work should be held in Honolulu, and will aid in the call- ing of such a conference during the 1920 Pan-Pacific congress in Honolulu. Edward D. Tenney, an early friend of the Pan-Pacific Union, provid- ing it with the first home for its Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, as president of the Honolulu Chamber in 1905 brought about the organization of the Hawaiian Promotion Committee. William D. Westervelt, a worker for years in Pan-Pacific work, is one of the directors of the Hawaii Volcano Research Association which he seeks to make a Pan acific organization for the study of volcanoes of the whole Pacific area. He advocates a Pan- Pacific conference of volcanologists in 1920.

11" ftithilarifir ftiagazittr CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

Volume XVII. MARCH, 1919. No. 3.

A Pan -Pacific Foreign Trade Club

H. B. Campbell, President Pan-Pacific For- eign Trade Club.

N Mondays in Honolulu the Pan- trade conditions there, stating that his Pacific Foreign Trade Club city had offered a subsidy of $5000 a voy- 0 holds its luncheon meetings age to a line of steamers passing through where visiting traders from any Pacific the Panama Canal. Suva during the war lands are entertained as guests of honor completed extensive harbor improve- and speakers for the day. ments and proposed to become the center of the South Sea island trade, and hoped The following items from the local to become a free port, with copra as her press will give an idea of how compre- specialty, Hedstrom said. hensive are these Pan-Pacific foreign The $5000 subsidy carried with it an trade conversationals. agreement that the freight on copra to J. M. Hedstrom, for eight years vice- the Panama Canal would not be more president of the Suva Chamber of Com- than from Sydney, so that copra would merce, and leading merchant of Fiji, command in Suva as much as it does in was the guest of the Foreign Trade Club Australia; so that with the proposed plan at the Pan-Pacific clubhouse at noon. Mr. carried through to make all of the British Hedstrom was born in Fiji and spoke on South Sea islands a separate colony, un-

217 218 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 219

der the self-determining Plan, copra would caterpillar tractors and many supplies that be collected at Suva as a central point. Germany shipped to Java before the war, The speaker pointed out just how Suva and which the Javan government now and Honolulu could cooperate and ex- wishes America to bid for. In his opinion change and stated that if a conference of the maintenance of a Java-American line chambers of commerce was held here in was a necessity if America is to build up 1920 that he was certain that the Suva commerce in the Dutch East Indies where chamber would send a representative in 45,000,000 souls are awakening to new the person either of its president or its desires. vice-president. * * * * * Photographs of Hedstrom and the di- Roofing tiles cost four dollars a thou- rectors who attended the first luncheon of sand in Java and $25 a thousand in Ha- the Pan-Pacific Foreign Trade Club were waii. The why of this was taken up last taken by R. J. Baker to be sent on to the night with Mr. H. F. K. Douglas, official Seattle, San Francisco and the Los An- trade commissioner from Java, by a com- geles foreign trade clubs, with which the mittee from the Pan-Pacific Club at a new organization affiliates. meeting at the home of Percy Pond with Chairman H. B. Campbell, Vaughan chairman H. B. Campbell of the Pan- MacCaughey of the College of Hawaii, Pacific foreign trade bureau presiding. and R. K. Thomas will form a committee This committee will meet today with the to arrange for a course of Pan-Pacific Pan-Pacific tourist bureau at the noon commercial talks. lunch to confer further with Mr. Doug- * * * * * las who will display a number of photo- Java was the topic of a conference at graphs from the one group of islands the Pan-Pacific Foreign Trade Club which rivals Hawaii. weekly luncheon yesterday, and Mr. H. F. Lecture Is Planned K. Douglas, trade representative of Java Arrangements are being made with was present with hundreds of interesting Mr. Douglas to give at the Pan-Pacific photographs and gave an entertaining club auditorium the first lecture in the talk. series of the Pan-Pacific commercial The subject of persuading the Dutch course some time next week. In this steamship companies to continue sailing Mr. Douglas will tell about the re- from San Francisco to Java via Honolulu sources of Java, with its population of was taken up, and Mr. Douglas said his 36,000,000, Sumatra, the size of Mis- first work on the mainland would be to souri, Celebes island, the size of Japan, take up with the Dutch consuls the mat- and Borneo, larger than New England. ter of a continuation of the American- Reasons will be given why Hawaii should Java sailings and the building up of di- join in the effort to have the steamship rect commerce between the two countries. line of communication between San He suggested that the Pan-Pacific Union Francisco and Java maintained. More of request the Honolulu Chamber of Com- these reasons will be demonstrated Tues- merce to pass resolutions in accord with day when Mr. Douglas meets with the this and get other Pacific chambers of artists, architects and engineers at their commerce to do the same. Mr. Douglas weekly luncheon, and the matter of the further stated that his mission in America feasibility of importing Java tiles for is to urge the investment of Yankee capi- roofing on the plantations and city houses tal in Java, showing where it will bring will be taken up. Mr. Douglas will then best returns. He instanced the need of show pictures of the bamboo houses built 220 THE M1 D-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 221 everywhere in Java and tell of the hun- Field for Hawaii dreds of uses to which Javan bamboo is In the discussion T. W. Caldwell sug- put. gested Hawaii might manufacture for With the Foreign Trade Club is being the Chinese and said that on the planta- taken up the matter of securing photo- tions they and the Japanese make the graphs of all of the industries in Java as only rain coats that will fit the Japanese well as samples of the actual goods manu- and Filipinos and keep off the rain. Mr. factured, to be filed in the Pan-Pacific Greenbaum replied that he found diffi- Commercial museum here. Mr. Douglas culty in getting American firms to make has hundreds of these photos with him, clothing that • would fit the Chinese and many of which he will show on the screen that if a Hawaiian firm would make the during his lecture on Java, to show the clothing needed by the smaller Orientals, opportunities offered to American inves- he would buy them by the tens of thou- tors. On the mainland Mr. Douglas will sands. represent Pan-Pacific work, spreading the Judge Weaver suggested that by meet- propaganda and, in turn, the affiliated ing the American• agents who pass bodies there will assist in placing the ad- through Honolulu a line might be gained vantages of Java, as described by her on what was needed that might be manu- commercial agent, before the American factured in Hawaii, and a new field open- public. ed here as agriculture had reached its It is expected that Clarence Coleman, limit, or nearly so. J. A. M. Johnson editor of "The Philippines," will also be a and others told of leather sent from Aus- guest of honor at the Pan-Pacific lunch tralia to Boston and back again to Syd- today. ney in the forrp of shoes, and suggested * * * * * Hawaii might make shoes, but Mr. Green- baum said the Chinese do not use shoes. Henry Greenbaum, of Sonnburger & Co., New York and the Orient, was the * * * * * guest of honor at the Pan-Pacific For- Men of every Pacific race wore Rizal eign Trade Club yesterday, being intro- buttons last night at the Pan-Pacific din- duced by Chairman Harry B. Campbell, ner to the newly-born Filipino National who spent many years in the portion of Association. Dr. I. Mori, the Japanese the Orient that Greenbaum is investigat- director of the Pan-Pacific Union occu- ing as a field for some forty million dol- pied the chairman's seat beneath the, lars for investment which his company American flag and the first speaker was a represents. Chinese citizen, Yap Kwai Fong of the Speaking of the situation in China, Mr. Bank of Hawaii. Greenbaum said the field was there for It was the first occasion on which the American goods and manufactures and banquet lanai, the old University Club it is to be hoped the Yankee will now be dining room, has been used for a Pan- willing to take a lesson from the German Pacific gathering and it was the first get- who long ago drove him out of China, by together dinner of the Filipino National making goods to suit the market. He in- Association. N. C. Dizan, the president stanced the fact that the Chinese wear a of the organization, explained it was the certain kiind of stocking and will wear outgrowth of years of effort on the part no other, no matter how cheaply it may of the Filipinos of Hawaii to get together, be offered and, as there are half a billion regardless of the part of the Philippines Chinese, it will pay to make the kind of they had come from, and that it was to socks they will wear. be an uplift organization, to urge the rill- 222 THE MID-PACIFIC

pinos to study agriculture, that they threw on the screen. Even after he had might become useful to themselves and announced that the first lecture of the to the plantations. It would teach loy- Foreign Trade Club was over, there were alty, and rather than being an organiza- calls for information about the tea in- tion to annoy the sugar planters, it wish- dustry, the coffee industry, rice, sisal and ed to cooperate with them for better rubber; and at a word from the lecturer, methods in sugar planting, asking coop- his assistant began flashing on the screen eration that the Filipino might learn sets of pictures illustrating these in- something of the science of sugar plant- dustries which Mr. Douglas described. ing. There seemed to be no question about A feature of the evening was rapid fire Java that - he could not quickly reply to translation into the Filipino dialects of the as well as picture on the screen. different speeches, D. H. Kleinfelter do- Ladies Have Inning. ing this deftly and quickly. Even at the end of two hours, when * * * * the lights were turned on and the speak- Several hundred persons listened to the er was hoarse from answering questions, first lecture of the Pan-Pacific Foreign he was taken in hand by the ladies to Trade Club last night, at the home of the explain to them the wonders of the club. H. F. K. Douglas, trade commis- handiwork of the Javanese weavers, in sioner from the Dutch Indies, was the color on cotton cloth. The big luncheon speaker. room of the Foreign Trade Club, adjoin- Standing room was at a premium when ing the lecture hall, had been turned into Governor McCarthy and his party arrived. a veritable Javanese commercial museum With the Governor were the Japanese con- and only Mr. Douglas could explain the sul, R. Moroi, the patron of the evening; wonders that lay spread out on the big consul for the Netherlands, H. M. von koa tables, as only the women could fully Holt, and H. B. Campbell, president of appreciate the marvelous art work of the the Foreign Trade Club. Governor Mc- Javanese as dislayed in the handiwork on Carthy, as president of the Pan-Pacific exhibition. Association, introduced the speaker tell- In his lecture Mr. Douglas made facts ing how Mr. Douglas had dispelled one and figures equally interesting. He ex- of his fond illusions, that the Hawaiians plained that Java 'was about 3500 miles had come from Java. Mr. Douglas, he from Japan, Japan 3500 miles from Ha- said, spoke all the native tongues of waii, and the Dutch East Indies about Java and, he, the Governor, found none 3500 miles from East to West, and nearly of them resembled Hawaiian. 1200 miles from North to South, with a total area of land amounting to three- Keen Interest Wakened quarters of a million square miles. This Mr. Douglas began by telling some- he compared to a quarter of a million thing of the trade opportunities in Java ; square miles of Japan and Formosa, with then of its commercial advantages and a population of 45,000,000 against Ja- need of American capital, and next he pan's 53,000,000, but with Java gaining showed something of the home life of the at every annual bound. On the island Javanese. Then, he told of the scenic of Java alone, the speaker pointed out, and other wonders that attract tourists•to there were 36,000,000 souls, with the far the "wonder garden of the world." For larger island of Sumatra to be developed more than an hour he held his audience and capable of supporting a hundred with his eloquence and information as million. America and other Pacific cap- well as with the hundreds of pictures he ital would bring this about. A bit of the Pan-Pacific Tourist Bureau at San Diego.

The Pan-Pacific Tourist Bureau At the Ocean Crossroads.

N Honolulu at the cross-roads of the united effort made to attract the Yankee ocean, the Pan-Pacific Tourist to see and invest in Pacific lands. Al- I Bureau has definitely organized, not ready arrangements have been made with only for local work in taking care of the the Tourist Bureaux of Australia, New visitor, but to call a conference in 1920 Zealand and Java to represent the Pan- of all of the heads of the Tourist Bureaus Pacific Tourist Bureau in its effort to in Pacific lands, to meet in Honolulu that disseminate knowledge of all Pacific they may agree upon some form of joint lands and to bring about cooperation campaign for Pan Pacific publicity on the among the Tourist Bureaux of the mainland of America and throughout the Pacific. world. It is hoped that now the war is over It is hoped that Pan-Pacific Tourist the plan of round the Pacific pound a Information Bureaux will be opened in day cruises will be carried forward. In all of the larger cities of America and a 1914 arrangements with the Austra-

223 224 THE MID-PACIFIC lasian, Javan and Japanese Tourist 'meetings of the bureau may prove in- Bureaux together with the Government structive : railways of these lands, were tentatively Every Pacific race in Hawaii was rep- made for these round the Pacific tours resented by an enthusiastic delegate at at a pound or five dollars a day up, in- the weekly luncheon meeting of the Pan- cluding all expenses ashore or afloat for Pacific Tourist Bureau. There was a the full cruise. tourist present from Los Angeles who It remains now to be seen,, however, if told how he was welcomed to that city this minimum rate can again be promised and made it his home and how he was in these days of advanced rates and high- not welcomed in Hawaii, he urged taking er prices. In the summer of 1914 china care of the tourist after he arrives, as and Siberia were about to organize of- other lands take care of him, be the key- ficial Tourist Bureaux to cooperate with note of effort on the part of the Pan- the work of the Pan-Pacific Union. Ef- Pacific Tourist Bureau in Hawaii. forts are now being made to have these Charles Albright, Los Angeles real needed Tourist Bureaux established. estate man, was the guest of honor and, after the men of different races had The Pacific Northwest Tourist Asso- stated what their people could and would ciation, representing British Columbia, do if encouraged, to make the stay of the Oregon and Washington states, will co- tourist unique and interesting, Albright operate with the Pan-Pacific Tourist had his say. Bureau, as will the Denver Tourist Bureau as the gateway to the Pacific. "Aloha Days" Recalled The Association of Tourist Bureaux of "I lived here 12 years ago in the good the Pacific coast, including the chambers old palmy days of aloha," he said, this of commerce of San Francisco and Los time I find the warm old time aloha spirit Angeles, will, also cooperate. It is hoped lacking. To instance ; in the old days that beginning in the Pacific coast cities there was an Alameda night, music and a through the cooperation of the local dance at the old Royal Hawaiian Hotel tourist bureaux that Pan-Pacific infor- the night the Alameda came in. Yester- mation offices may be opened at an early day at the Moana a man came up from date, even prior to the 1920 congress in the Tenyo and asked if there would be a Honolulu. steamer dance, he was informed that there were not enough guests, so he said he Some years ago, at the first Pan-Pacific would give the dance in memory of one of Tourist Bureaux convention, held at Ho- the most delightful evenings he ever spent nolulu, New South Wales offered to print in his life, a steamer night in Honolulu and provide one million illustrated book- years ago. He engaged the music and lets on the cost and pleasures of Pan- there was a dance, enjoyed by all, but no Pacific travel if the transportation com- one to introduce the man who paid the panies and tourist bureaux would dis- fiddler to his guests. I came in at 11 tribute these in all Pacific lands. This o'clock, heard of it, took him in our party plan might well be taken up again by a and arranged dances for him, he had gone Pan-Pacific Tourist Bureau. out automobiling for an hour in disgust. To give an idea of the local work of "Now instance how I was welcomed in the Honolulu Pan-Pacific Tourist Bureau Los Angeles. I had scarcely reached my at the crossroads of the ocean where place of stopping, not a hotel, when I got those of all Pacific lands meet, the fol- a note from a perfect stranger offering lowing press comment on the weekly to direct me to any of the sights in Los THE MID-PACIFIC 225

Before the New South Wales Government Tourist Bureau Building, Sydney, Australia.

Angeles. Certain business men get the up Fujiyama and maintains splendid addresses from the baggage men, and hotels for their comfort. Carlos Ezeta, place themselves at the service of new- son of the late president of San Salvador; comers. I made Los Angeles my home. suggested that the Boy Scouts select boys of different races to train as guides Start At Once and Scoutmaster Hutton offered to aid "If this organization will look out for in this work. the tourist after he gets here, believe me, a visitor, we will come every year. You Office on Wharf can give us a typical racial night every B. F. Matsuzawa of the Pan-Pacific day of the week, do so. Start it here in Y. M. C. A. came with a large plan of your big lanai of the Pan-Pacific build- the proposed new tourist bureau office on ing, but give us some way of meeting Alakea wharf and said that the coopera- each other and seeing your typical Pan- tion of the Pan-Pacific Union was asked Pacific kaleidoscopic life, it's what we in maintaining this as a place where men come for and don't get. Will you give it of all races would be received and given to us, you can." information as well as literature in the Others told of how in Australasia and several languages of the Pacific. It was even on the mainland now, tourist decided to go into this thoroughly and bureaus take care of the tourist after his cooperate. Mr. Matsuzawa said last arrival. R. J. Baker told of his visit to year 2000 tourists made enquiries of this Japan and how the tourist bureau there bureau and 20,000 pieces of literature will even provide guides to take tourists were given out. The entire committee 226 THE MID-PACIFIC of Pacific races pledged itself to cooper- Conference Suggested ate in the maintenance of such a Pan- J. M. Westgate suggested that steps be Pacific Tourist Information station and taken to gather the heads of Pacific to supply guides who speak the different tourist bureaus here in conference during languages of the Pacific. 1920 and organize for cooperative work Ernest Kaai said there was much de- on the mainland and to learn from them mand for Hawaiian entertainment and how they entertain and take care of the suggested that the different races com- tourist after his arrival. bine to give a series of typical entertain- P. M. Pond suggested making a start ment evenings. in a practical way by utilizing the big court of the Pan-Pacific building sur- N. C. Dizon for the Filipinos said rounded by the dioramas, for a Pan- that they had splendid musicians, and Pacific theater where typical racial en- would be glad to organize to entertain the tertainments be given every evening for tourist one evening a week. J. E. Santos the entertainment of tourists, and to promised the same for the Portuguese, make our home people better acquainted and J. Chuc Lind for the Chinese. with the life of those they live among. A Congress of Pacific Banks 1920

E. I. Spalding, President Bank of Honolulu.

S a part of the Pan-Pacific Con- the city, even those of the Japanese and gress of 1920 it is proposed to Chinese, was represented by its head or A gather together in Honolulu the manager at the lunch when the sugges- representatives, not only of the Cham- tion of Dennison Miller, managing di- bers of Commerce and Foreign Trade rector of the Australian commonwealth Clubs in Pacific lands, but also the heads banks, came up for discussion, and it was of the leading banks and financial insti- unanimously agreed that it was up to tutions doing business in or with Pacific Honolulu to come through and not only lands. hold a Pan-Pacific financial congress, but Already the banking men of Hawaii to urge the Chamber of Commerce to get have organized to prepare their part in behind the movement to call a &inference calling together and entertaining the of the Pacific chambers. financial leaders who gather at the cross Immediately after the new board of the roads of the Pacific for conference in Chamber takes office in 1919, a meeting 1920. of the banker's committee and the new A. Lewis, Jr., Manager of the Bank of Chamber of Commerce will be called at Hawaii ; Richard H. Trent, President of the Pan-Pacific Club to unite on plans to the Trent Trust Company ; L. Tenney forward the two conferences simultane- Peck, Managing Director of the First ously. On Friday of this week the Pan- National Bank, and E. W. Sutton, Man- Pacific bureau will meet and decide on ager of the Bishop Trust Company con- plans for calling a conference of the stitute a committee named at the Pan- tourist bureau heads of Pacific lands, con- Pacific Union gathering of all of the currently with the other conferences. financial heads in Honolulu, to formulate Opens the Discussion plans to call a Pan-Pacific financial con- Mr. Lewis opened the discussion by ference to meet in Honolulu early in 1920. stating that Dennison Miller's suggesticn Every bank and every trust company in should be acted on in the affirmative and

227- 228 THE MID -PACIFIC steps taken at once to formulate the scope all to meet and lay out commercial plans of the conference and prepare for it. R. as well as financial cooperation that H. Trent urged that a business conference might lead to the adoption of a decimal be called at the same time, as Honolulu currency in all Pacific lands and the with its new large hotels and the build- American dollar as the unit of value. ings of model cottages well under way Representatives of both the Pacific and can well take care of as many as will come the Sumitomo banks, expressed their to the conference. He suggested that the views as being similar to those of Mr banks abroad might aid in financing spec- Peck. W. W. Chamberlain of the Guard- ial excursions to Hawaii for the confer- ian Trust Company, urged united effort ence, to bring other visitors at the same on the part of all of the banks, trust time, much as a bank in Los Angeles has companies and business organizations done in the past, and the American Ex- toward making Honolulu for all time the press Company proposes to do. Pan-Pacific conference center, and ex- E. I. Spalding, president of the Bank pressed a hope that immediate steps be of Honolulu, urged the need of a confer- made to grasp the opportunity. ence that might lead to the placing of all Moves for Committee Pacific countries on a gold basis and mak- E. W. Sutton of the Bishop Trust ing exchange safe for all banks, instanc- Company moved that a committee be at ing the early history of Honolulu when once appointed to draw up the proper Mexican dollars were bought in San plans for an organization that would Francisco at 85 cents and passed in Ha- call a financial congress in Honolulu waii at par. during the early part of 1920, and in Mr. Wong of the American-Chinese this he was seconded by James L. Cock- Bank, told stories of Chinese banks that burn of the Bishop Bank. H. H. Walk discredited their own paper in branch in- er of the Hawaiian Trust Company urg- stitutions. He mentioned one bank, the ing that the Y. M. C. A. call a confer- Bank of China that had a hundred ence of its Pan-Pacific secretaries and branches in the different provinces and that other units be urged to call confer- not a single foreign stockholder. He ences, the whole making a congress that hoped that influence would be brought to might extend over several months and bear on the Chinese to send their best advertise Hawaii as the central point of financiers to the conference. the Pacific where Pan-Pacific confer- Mr. Awoki, Manager of the Yokohama ences of every kind would be logically Specie Bank, stated that he would seek to held. interest the Japanese government and the This was urged also by Mr. W. R. banks in the financial congress. Castle for the Waterhouse Trust Co., L. Tenney Peck Speaks and Territorial Treasurer D. E. Metzger L. Tenney Peck, of the First National brought matters to a climax by urging Bank, outlined the necessity of having a the immediate appointment of a com- commercial conference of the chambers mittee that would perfect a plan of or- of commerce of the Pacific, coincident ganization and instruct the full commit- with the financial congress as trade and tee just how to call the financial congress finance go hand in hand, and the trade of and what its scope of discussion should Japan with South America ; Australia be. The committee named in the open- with Canada; China with the Pacific ing paragraph was appointed, and at the coast, was what would benefit Hawaii at call of Chairman Lewis will meet to per- the cross roads of the ocean. Here, he fect plans and report back to a future said, was the most convenient place for meeting at the Pan-Pacific club house.

The American Indian and the Red Cross

By WENTWORTH G. FIELD of the Red Cross Magazine Staff.

That war, and rumors of war, should find their way to even our most re- tired Indian tribes is natural enough for, peaceful as they may be now, their an- cient traditions are of war and death. Unexpected is the fact that the mission and the meaning of the American Red Cross movement have penetrated to the tribes that still retain much of their aboriginal life. It is not only the letter of the word that has come to them; the spirit of it has been grasped and accepted. They have entered into it as earnestly as have all other Americans. They have given of their best, of their goods and their hearts. This article tells of a Red Cross journey to the Pueblo Indians. ERCHED on rocks five hundred could do to aid it. They nodded their feet higher than the surrounding heads. They understood, and when we departed, we left the wonderful old Sky p mesa sits Acoma, "The Sky City" of the Pueblo Indians in New Mexico. City pledged to the Red Cross. They who would enter it must climb An automobile trip across the mesa long and hard, struggling up cliffs in took us to the next Indian town, Laguna. which are carved foot- and hand-holds. We were met by the "Governor," a Its Indian citizens dwell in it today very Pueblo chief who told us his name. "I much the same in outward circumstances called Charlie Kay. Sounds German. as did their direct ancestors, when Cor- But I ain't." onado went there in 1540 with his Span- In Laguna that night a little audience ish adventurers and with the heroic of two hundred gathered in the Govern- Franciscan Brothers—the adventurers in ment schoolhouse under the auspices of search of gold and gems and the Brothers the Presbyterian minister. There were in search of souls. Indians, Mexicans, and plain Americans. Among these remote people we Red Mr. Robert Fraser, a young man from Cross workers were received with willing the Central Division of the Red Cross attention. The Indians gathered around who had seen active and dangerous ser- us, and those who spoke English told vice on the French front, aroused them their comrades what the Red Cross was, to enthusiasm, and Laguna added itself what it meant, and what they themselves to the cause.

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The American Indian has been a liberal contributor to the Red Cross fund and has sent his braves to fight in France. His life may be primitive, but his heart is in the right place. r THE MID-PACIFIC 231

One of our most interesting exper- some of the slang rather puzzled him, as iences was in a quaint old "Penitente" when Mr. Fraser spoke of a young town. It had many of its sons already French girl as "very easy to the eye." in the Government's military service and To save the interpreter's mind, the was ready and eager to give itself to classical description had to be re-stated Red Cross service. These "Penitentes" in less modern English. of New Mexico are an outgrowth of the About thirty miles from Santa Fe is third order of Saint Francis, and they the charming old pueblo of Cochiti, still subject themselves to extreme and where there are a mission and a good painful penance, especially during Holy Government school. Week. These Indians cling closely to their old Their religious zeal inspires them to traditions and only once and most re- astonishing fortitude under intense luctantly gave me permission as a special agony but it does not make them a grim proof of friendship to enter their giva- people. Their courtesy to strangers is the circular adobe building, entered only great. But let the stranger beware of from the top by descending a ladder, trying to "kodak" any of their cere- which is used by the chiefs for tribal monies. affairs. In the "Penitente" stronghold we A few weeks ago there appeared in found our emblem displayed. We were Santa Fe some of the few surviving there on Good Friday night and had the Cochiti chiefs, bringing with them their fortune to witness their Tenieblas ser- war bonnets, dancing moccasins, their vice—the Dark Service, or reign of dark- paints, their ceremonial blankets and fox- ness in memory of the Saviour's agony skins, and strangest of all, their Katci- on the Cross. When it was finished, nas, the grotesque, highly painted doll- and the candles were lit once more, we images that play a most important mystic saw two enormous red crosses on the part in ceremonial dances. They said : side walls of the morada (the Penitente "We have come to dance for you here meeting house), and in conversation with in your Palace of the Governors. We the Hermano Major (Elder Brother or do not want money for it. We want you Leader of the Penitentes) we found that to make much money and give it to all had a keen interest in the Red Cross. the Red Cross !" At Espanola we had a unique gather Next night, with the moonlight flood- ing. My friend Santiago, ex-governor of ing the courtyard, they gave their weird, the nearby Santa Clara pueblo, brought beautiful Cochiti ceremonial dance. Out a lot of Santa Clara Indians. Since most of love for the Red Cross they had of the audience understood only Span- broken their traditions and traveled ish, we found an interpreter who put our weary miles to add their mite to the English into Spanish very well, though cause. 232 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Fijian is a negroid race, many of their number, however, have mixed with the Polynesian. The Fijians sent thousands of their warriors to France to fight for world democracy.

Sgi====M31===M =CIII=CLOIIIT The Peopling of the Pacific

By J. McMILLAN BROWN Chancellor of the University of New Zealand

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(Continued) them the weapons with which they began EGALITHISM comes just be- to conquer the aboriginal Caucasoids and fore the age of metals. When- found the Japanese empire. The Ainu M ever iron tools were introduced, who still inhabit Hokkaido, the northern- there was no necessity for cutting out most island, used to fill all the islands of stone in huge blocks. With iron a Japan, and it took the Japanese 1,200 number of small stones could be as years to drive them north of Tokio ; then easily cut as one large stone, and far they began to absorb them. But the Ainu more easily transported and handled. Now were never builders in great stone. There the iron age began in Japan in the sixth was evidently a Caucasoid race before century before our era ; though the bronze them who began the great megalithic era was six centuries earlier, neither vaults now called imperial tombs. This bronze nor iron came into ancient Poly- was a taller race than Ainu, who have an nesia ; so we may assume that the great average of five feet three to five feet six, stone building Polynesians came into the some three inches taller than the Japanese Pacific 1200 B. C. Both the metals came average. On the west coast of the main into Japan with the Mongoloids and gave island, Hondo, every fifth man I passed

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was from five feet six to five feet nine, the relation of head form to face form and many were six-footers. And the Gov- is round head and broad face, long head ernor of Portar, who was himself five and long face. The Polynesians, there- feet eleven and three-quarters, told me fore, form a striking exception. Of course that there was a famous regiment in the not all of them have this. I have seen Japanese army who were of this stature. medium and long heads in many groups The wrestlers, who are all big muscular and occasionally broad faces ; but this ex- men with the Polynesian tendency to ceptional disharmony between head and stoutness, come from this, tall race, and face is predominant in the race. And so do large numbers of the riksha men. amongst the races of the old or unpol- This becomes significant when we know ished stone age, whose remains have been that the Polynesians are the tallest race found, there is one and only one that dis- on the average not only in the Pacific plays this disharmony; it is what is called Ocean, but in the world. And that the the Cro Magnon race because its remains Japanese absorbed Caucasoids with com- were first found in a cave so called in the plexion and blonde hair is apparent to south of France. It is a race that belongs anyone who goes through Japan with the to the last stage of the Old Stone Age, observing eye. I could see ripply brown which was marked by great artistic devel- hair on the queues of the unmarried girls opment in both painting and carving, and all over the west coast, and in the coils it is striking for its tall stature. One is of ropes of human hair given by the de- almost inclined to say that the first stratum voted women of Kyoto to raise the lofty of Polynesians, the stratum that brought pillars of the new Hongwanje temple one women with it and gave the potteryless could see many strands of brown and even household to the region, belonged to this blonde hair. I saw the same phenomenon race. For Polynesians are distinguished in the north and center of China; and the not only for their tall stature and this dis- Lobos are still an unconquered Causasoid harmony of head form, and face form, race in the mountains all over the south- but for their great artistic development. west. If you have ever seen pictures of And this takes us back to the end of the the court beauties of ancient Japan, you Old Stone Age for the first peopling of could see Caucasianism in the red cheeks, the Central Pacific. long oval face and fine lines of the small Another feature of Polynesian culture mouth and of the nose, a complete con- takes us back far in the New Stone Age trast to the typical Mongoloid face with or Age of Polished Stone weapons. It is its broad short face, upstanding nostrils the character of the agriculture. It does and somewhat large and coarse mouth. not get beyond the culture of fruits and One has not to go far in Japan, therefore, roots. There is no cereal agriculture, al- to find the prototypes of the fine European though all America cultivated maize for faces so often seen amongst the Polyne- thousands of years. sians with the oval face, fine nose, thin lips and red cheeks, or for the Chu and Kamapuaa, the pig god, is also the god the Keakea who are found all over Poly- of agriculture in Hawaii ; the rooting of nesia. this animal seems to have indicated the But the most distinctive physical char- plants that were edible, so Treyain Scan- acteristic of the Polynesian, besides the dinavia had a golden bristled boar which tall stature, the stout legs, and the ten- taught m m agriculture before Europeans dency to corpulence in adult life, is the arrived, and the old world had cultivated combination of the round head and long grains as far back as the earliest empires face. The anthropologist's formula for of Mesopotamia some ten thousand years THE MID-PACIFIC 235 ago. Had any expedition left India or the But from any comparative analysis of Malay Archipelago from two to three the words that are common to them I have thousand years ago for the Pacific, it come to the conclusion that they have would undoubtedly have brought rice with gone west out of Polynesia and not east it. Yet rice culture had not extended into into it. The simpler form and the root New Guinea when Europeans came, al- are to be found in Polynesia, and not in- though there must have been trade along frequently the root is used as separate the coast of that island and into Melane- word. One or two instances will be sia, which carried the chewing of the enough. areca nut with a pepper leaf and lime as The commonest name for the sago far as the Santa Cruz group, and a ship's tree right eastwards from the Malay bell with a Tamil inscription on it of the Archipelago to the Banks group, north Mohammedan period was last century of the New Hebrides, the eastern term- found in New Zealand—manifestly an in- inal limit of the sago tree•is pia. And in cident of a castaway ship ; along with this the Banks Islands pia not only means the last must be placed the fact that in the flour pulped out of the pith of the tree, middle of last century colored glass beads but the sap or exudation of a tree. The of probably Hindoo manufacture were latter is evidently the primary sense and found many feet below the surface when in Maori, Tahitian and Papuan it a well was being sunk in Christchurch ; means exudation. In Maori Kapia, the these were probably traded'off from the exudation of the Kauri ; Juapia, in Tahi- same shipwreck as supplied the Tamil tian, the sweet gum in the blossom of ship's bell to South Island natives and the banana ; in most of the others pia is dropped from a canoe when the site of applied to the indigenous arrowroot. Pia Christchurch was still under water. The is formed as a noun from the common introduction of rice culture into Japan was Polynesian verb "pi," to ooze, to soak, to not coeval with the Japanese empire, but sprinkle. Most know the word prau or came either with the Malays from the parau for a Malay seagoing craft. "A" south or from China, through Korea. The comes from the Polynesian ; in Maori Ainu certainly had not got it though they wharan is a ship ; in many dialects it cultivated millet. means a canoe house, but another form That the Ainu not only fought with but of it, polau, means a deep sea canoe and had friendly intercourse with their taller a voyage ; it is derived from whara mat- predecessors is evident in the fact that ting, which is either derived from or is their language has not only a large num- • the origin of hala or whara the ship ber of roots the same as Polynesian roots, and the root "u" to voyage ; in Hawaiian but many words that are the same as pola is the high seat on the double canoe Polynesian. The Japanese absorbed the platform, whilst in Tahitian parepora is tall race and ultimately the Ainu ; but it a thatched house put on this platform. In has fewer roots and words akin to Poly- Maori the name for the shining cuckoo, nesian, although it has about the same which was a bird of the fatherland. Ha- phonological laws, especially that which waiki, and which migrates north from forbids a syllable or a word ending in a New Zealand in March is pipi-wharau- consonant. There is, as has been shown, roa, which means the bird of the long a far closer kinship between the Polyne- voyage (wharau). One other instance sian vocabulary and that of the languages will suffice. We generally think of the of Melanesia, Micronesia, the coasts of word "cockatoo" as Australian; it was New Guinea and the Malay Archipelago. really picked up by the Portuguese and 236 THE MID-PACIFIC

Samoans at a feast.

Spanish in the Malay Archipelago from Polynesian in their inhabitants. In the Malay Kakatua, a parrot ; tua in Ma- Omba, in the eastern series of the New lay means big or mature; but Kaka in Hebrides, the people are so light in color Malay means not a parrot, but a crow. that Cook called it Leper's Island. And We have got to go into Polynesia for along the north coast of New Guinea in the origin ; "kaka" in Mauri is "a par- all the villages I visited I stood amongst rot," and "Kakaviki" or "small parrot" a people; most of them up to about my means a parroquet. So muck from Poly- shoulder, a few towering above me. nesian amo ; a and Smo., to jump for- Micronesia, on the other hand, seems ward. to have a double share of Polynesianism, This westward migration is according from the original migration and from to nature ; it follows the direction of the the reflux when the fatherland, Hawaiki tradewinds. And it is confirmed in the sank. But it has .more; it has in the phenomena in Melanesia. It is the east south something of the negroid, and in coasts of the Fiji Islands that are so the north more of the Mongoloid; I saw highly Polynesianised. The interior and not infrequently the broad face and out- also east coasts still show the aboriginal standing cheekbones, the long hair and negritto population. It is the same in even the eye slit and oblique eye. And the Solomon Islands, the New Hebrides in Saipan of the Mariannes I was shown and New Caledonia. I could classify large bronze nails found deep in the the photographs I took in the east island coral under a forest on the top of the into east coast, and west coast, according raised coral reef of Rota; and these were as they showed Polynesian and Caucas- similar to the bronze nails in the wood oid faces or negroid faces. And there work of Nikko in Japan. It was often are islands in the eastern series of Mela- difficult to distinguish the Sampanese nesia generally small, that are entirely from Japanese. THE MID-PACIFIC 237

Samoan village of today.

In other words Micronesia was a re- There lies the basis for the commingling gion which saw in early times an effort of East and West, so long and widely di- at a commingling of the three divisions vided. of mankind, the Caucasoid, the negroid, It is the lesson that this war is bring- and the Mongoloid. Has nature retained ing home to us so drastically. The lapse of the power of crossing these so widely and Germany from the line of human ethical so long separated sections of mankind? development does not destroy our faith I believe she has. And in this Hawaiian in the progress of mankind towards Archipelago she has a sphere for the ex- higher and higher ideals. The student periment. Here we have in one group of history, and especially anthropology, in considerable numbers the three sec- knows what an advance has been made tions of mankind crowded together under in the past from the saucer-skulled ape- the same laws, the same social organiza- man of Java to the modern philosopher tion, and the same system of education. and patriot. And the lapse even of a In the generations to come there will be whole nation cannot disturb his faith. numberless varieties of crosses with the On the contrary it strengthens it. For same environment. It is an experiment he is' all the surer that love, not hate, is and if nature succeeds without jettison- the fulfilling of the law. The whole ing the finest qualities and ethics of the world has risen against the prophets commingling elements the problem of and priests of hate, and in rising has re- the world is solved. And there is much vealed that there is a divine instinct in hope that the experiment will succeed. man's heart towards love and self-sacri- We can already see the fine effect of fice. For there is ever before man in his Western culture on the young Japanese family life the example of a mother's and Chinese born here. What can be love. And if we look back over the past finer than the message of that capable we will find this confirmed. The reli- Hawaiian-born Chinese patriot, Sun Yat gions of hate and fear remained narrow Sen, urging the journalists of the Chinese tribal faiths, powerless to spread or com- to stand for justice and righteousness ? mend themselves to mankind. The only 238 THE MID-PACIFIC religions that took the world like a con- and the channel ports. Had the wild flagration were those that were founded beast of Europe gained his objectives this on love and preached love. Hate is war would have spun out not six or eight divided, poor, self-involved and barren, years, but a whole generation. We are capable of nothing noble or great. The apt to forget in the welter of the long nations that sing songs of hate are war what this martyr nation did in its doomed to failure and annihilation. They beginning for the freedom of mankind, have the brand of Cain upon their brows. and for the cause of justice and right- They are accursed as pariahs. We have eousness. It is a service that lovers of only to think of what Germany has done liberty and the right should never for- to Belgium, a country whose neutrality get. The world must not cease fighting it had solemnly agreed to protect, to see till its wrongs are righted as far as they how far a nation can fall towards Hades can be now. And in doing this duty once it abandons respect for what is right men will learn better than they have ever and just. And on the other hand we done Omnipotence of the brotherhood of have only to think of what Belgium has mankind and the magic of love. suffered for the sake of the rights of man The history of mankind teaches us that to recognize to what a height a nation the only true advance that can be made can rise in self-sacrifice. She might have must be based upon trust in our fellows, taken the primrose path of submission; a foresight and sure belief that finds she did not know, the world did not higher ideals upon the horizon and most know, then how brutally Germany would of all a sense of the brotherhood of men. treat the nations that gave in and agreed In short, the lesson this war teaches us to a so-called peace. Instead of yielding more than any other crisis in human af- to the invader, she stood up to him with fairs is that for human progress three her little army and gave the Allies that things are essential,—faith, hope and precious fortnight which enabled them to charity, but the greatest of these is array their forces across the path to Paris charity. The Pine Tree is the emblem of the new year in Japan.

New Year in Tokyo

By T. SUZUKI

RACE and tranquillity reign over brick workships, where weapons of war the capital on the first day of the are being forged and fabricated. The p New Year. Tokyo, usually the only features of activity noticeable are scene of the noisy battle of life, rests the street cars, decorated with small sun- from its activity for the day, and there flags and laden with people going out to is an atmosphere of general quietude pay visits to friends and acquaintances to about the city, which, is intensified by wish them a Happy New Year, or on a contrast with the din, pressure, and con- pilgrimage to shrines and temples to pro- fusion, characteristic of the last day of pitiate the divinities enshrined there, that the Old Year. The black smoke, which these may bring them luck during the is seen issuing from the stacks of the year ; or jinrikishas, carriages, and motor Arsenal throughout the year, does not cars, busily moving about with people not becloud the clear sky on that day; not on business bound, but dealing goodwill even white steam is visible there. No and the compliments of the season among sounds of hammer strokes come from the their friends, or merely on pleasure bent,

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to breathe in the joyousness of this aus- Imperial Palace. His Majesty the Em- picious and happy day. peror leaves his bed early in the morn- Cleanliness is naturally associated with ing, and after his ablutions, clad in an- the New Year, and a clean house is al- cient ceremonial robes, proceeds to a shed ways considered one of the important erected for the occasion in one of the features of New Year's Day, but no courtyards, attended by the Minister of sweeping and dusting are done on the the Imperial Household, the Lord High day, lest, as it is superstitiously feared, Chamberlain, and other Court officials. the God of Luck which the New Year His Majesty ascends the throne in the has brought to the house should be star- centre of the shed and personally con • tled out of it by the unwelcome opera- ducts the ceremony of worshipping, and tions. All cleaning is conscientiously offering evergreen branches of sakaki to done on New Year's Eve, and on New Daijingu and Toyokedaijin of Ise and Year's Day the brooms are bound up with other apotheosized Imperial ancestors. red-and-white strings, as a sign that their The Emperor then turns successively use has been sealed for the day. towards the tombs of Jimmu, the first This is a great day for young folks. Emperor of Japan, and of the Emperor They get up early and dress themselves Meiji, as well as various shrines and of- in their holiday best, and, after the cere- fers up prayers that peace and prosperity mony of eating rice cakes and soup, an may prevail throughout his dominions indispensable feature of New Year's and that his reign may be a happy and Day, they go out to enjoy themselves ac- glorious one. Outside the shed all ranks cording to their respective fancies—boys of court officials are in attendance, and flying kites, girls playing with balls and in the eastern section of the courtyard at battledore and, shuttlecock. Business bonfires are lighted, which add consid- establishments and stores in general are erably to the solemnity of the service. closed in honor of the occasion. "CHOGA." With us Japanese, January is the pleas- This means the reception given by the antest of the twelve months, being full of T. I. M. the Emperor and Empress to various festive events and curious cus- the Crown Prince and Princess, the toms. It is not inappropriate to compare Princes and Princesses of the Blood, the the Japanese New Year's Day to Christ- high dignitaries of state, who wait on mas Day in the west. Customs and ob- their Majesties to pay the compliments servances peculiar to the month are of the occasion. After the "Shihohai" briefly sketched in the following para- ceremony is over, His Majesty proceeds graphs: to the Phoenix Hall, one of the court "WAKAMIZU." chambers, in company with the Imperial At daybreak on New Year's Day, Consort, and there the reception is water is drawn by the servants, either granted. from the well or the neighboring stream, NEW YEAR GREETINGS AND for use in the cooking of the morning PRESENTS. . meal. This water is called "wakamizu," Friendliness is the keynote of the New or "young water," and is believed to have Year's season. All enmity is forgotten the power of preserving health through for the nonce, if not forgiven forever, the year, if used in the preparation of and the foes of yesterday are friends at the meal. New Year time. Callers leave cards at "SHIHOHAI" the houses of their friends and acquaint- This is a ceremony observed at the ances, wishing them a Happy New Year. THE MID-PACIFIC 241

To receive each and every visitor and ent, are crowded with such people, whose return his compliments would be too te- religious feeling is not unmixed with the dious an affair, and in most houses there desire of promoting their self-interest. is at the entrance some receptacle into "KADOMATSU" (1st to 6th.) which the cards of callers are dropped. "Kadomatsu," or decorating the front Presents are given to children by their relatives and friends, and trifling pres- gate of a house with pine trees at New ents—calendars, fans, Japanese towels, Year time, is an old custom, dating from etc.—are also made by tradespeople to the 9th century. There are over thirty families patronizing their establishments different types of these decorations, and during the year. some are very elaborate, being tastefully combined with bamboo canes with "TOSO" spreading branches and plum branches This drink, sacred to the New Year's bearing flowers—these three being a trio season, is perhaps best described as Jap- closely associated in Japanese art. These anese curacoa. It is one of those dis- decorations are all cleared away on the tinctive features that go to make the seventh day, and this gives rise to the season New Year-like. The liquor is phrase "matsu-no-uchi," which means the taken by the family at each meal and is first six days of the New Year, its literal served to guests. This is a very ancient translation being "the time of the pine." institution, dating from the 9th century. "SHIME KAZARI" (1st to 14th) To it is attributed a magic power to pro- mote the health, not only of the drinker, These sacred straw decorations are but also of those around him. It is said hung at the entrance of the house, in the that no sickness visits a family when one alcove, and in front of altars. There are of its members drinks "toso," and that usually two kinds—one is larger and no sickness comes within a radius of a prepared with much artistic elaboration, ri (the Japanese mile) when a family while the other is simple and contains takes that elixir. scant decorative features, this latter be- ing known as "shimenawa." "ZONI," OR RICE-CAKE SOUP. "MANZAI" Like "toso," "zoni" is as indispensable This is a droll dance performed by to the New Year's season as Christmas two men. The "tayu," or principal, is at- pudding is to Yuletide. It is a kind of tired in quaint, old-time costume, and the soup containing toasted rice cakes, veg- "saizo," his assistant, is more humbly etables, chicken meat, etc. dressed. Several of these pairs go from "EHOMAIRI." house to house during the first six days Many superstitious Tokyo people, of the New Year and perform their leaving their homes early in the morning, comic dance for a consideration. The go on a pilgrimage to temples or shrines "tayu" sings in a peculiar tone, which is lying in the lucky direction of the year, in keeping with the peaceful and joyous called "eho." By way of souvenirs, they atmosphere of the New Year season, receive charms at these places of wor- while the "saizo" is a favorite with chil- ship, the possession of which is believed dren, his clownish actions and broad to bring them good luck and prosperity jokes appealing to them very forcibly. throughout the year. This pilgrimage is This dancing, however, is gradually dy- popular chiefly among the commercial ing out, perhaps because it is too anti- classes. Electric cars, running to places quated to suit the taste of the people in where these temples and shrines are pres- this strenuous age. 242 THE MID-PACIFIC

"SARUMAWASHI" them. The set consists of two hundred The monkey is another of the contrib- cards, of which one half, containing the utors to the festivity of the season. first three lines of the poems, are used Monkey-trainers walk about the streets for reading, and the other half contain- with their little performer on their backs ing the last two lines for playing. The and enter houses which promise to give cards are equally divided among the them patronage. The simian actors are players, and when the first three lines generally welcomed in families where of each poem are read out, the card with there are active little folks, who are fas- the corresponding last two lines is elim- cinated by their clever tricks, sometimes inated. The player who has the last card marvelously humanlike. uneliminated loses the game. The liveli- "SHISHIMAI" ness of the game is heightened by the rule which enables a player A to give one This is a gay feature of the festive sea- of his own cards to another player B, son. The dancer wears a big lion mask, when A forestalls B in discovering and a conventionalized lion of Japanese art, picking up the right card from among totally unlike the lion of natural history, those in the possession of B and spread having grotesque features, red face, before him, when the corresponding golden teeth and scarlet mane. The band poem is read out. A "karuta" party is accompanying him consists of one drum- perhaps the most exciting scene to be mer, one flutist, and another musician witnessed in the New Year season, as playing on a metal drum called "sho." most of those who take part in it are "OIBANE" young men and women, and enter into This game of Japanese battledore and the game with the enthusiasm charac- shuttlecock is the outdoor sport of the teristic of youth—a sort of friendly bat- New Year's season. The whole family tle of the sexes. go out of the house into the garden or KITE-FLYING into the street and join in the sport. The excitement of the game is enhanced by This is the favorite New Year pastime the rule strictly adhered to, in which one for children. It is indulged in on hills, who has failed to strike the shuttlecock in fields, and streets—everywhere, in sent to one has to undergo the penalty' fact, that space permits its enjoyment. of having one's face mercilessly smeared These kites with designs in gay colors with indian-ink or, in milder games, with make a pretty sky decoration, and the vibrating bands sometimes attached to toilet powder solution. A lady of much them supply music not altogether un- personal beauty, faultlessly coiffured and pleasant to the ear. It is said that the perfectly and handsomely attired, whose kite was invented in China centuries ago, skin-deep. pride and sartorial vanity are cut to the quick by a single stroke of an and that it was at first used as a target inky brush, is a sight highly provocative for arrows in the training of archers. of amusement and laughter to the players So the kite is military in its origin. and spectators. "SUGOROKU" "UTAGARUTA" This is a game played by youngsters This, the most popular indoor pastime who are not old enough to take part in in the New Year season, is played with the poem-card contest. For it is required cards a little smaller than playing cards, a sheet of pictures showing stages from having poems by celebrated poets and the starting-point to the goal, and it is poetesses of old printed or written on played with a die. Moves are made ac- THE MID-PACIFIC 243

cording to the number indicated by the distinguished persons, including the die thrown by each player, and the one members of the diplomatic body, over who is quickest to reach the goal first seven hundred and fifty persons in all. is the winner, and the one who is left Similar banquets designated by the same behind in the race and fails to reach the name are held by members of govern- destination in time is the loser. ment offices and commercial and other bodies, for the purpose of promoting "HAT8USHIBAL" friendly feelings, but the holding of these The season witnesses much activity in is not confined to the date on which the the theatrical business, as people out on Court banquet is given. holiday are bent on "giving a Happy "NANAKUSA" (7th) New Year to their eyes," as the Japanese phrase is. All theaters, with the excep- On the morning of the 7th a rice gruel tion of the Kabukiza and the Meijiza, containing some vegetables is served at which are not opened till the 14th or the the morning meal. These vegetables 15th, begin their season performances on were formerly seven in number—hence the 1st or 2nd of the New Year. They the name of "nanakusa," or seven herbs usually draw big houses. —and the "nanakusa" gruel was believed to possess some miraculous medical "TAKARABUNE" AND "HATSU- value. YUME" "NEW YEAR REVIEW OF People retire early on the night of the TROOPS (8th) 1st, but on the 2nd they sit up till late at Tokyo troops pass in review before night, enjoying themselves in various His Majesty the Emperor on the Aoyama ways. Mingling with their merriment, Parade Ground, as the first military there are to be heard here and there the cries of the sellers of "takarabune"— event of the year. The review is not held unless favored by fine weather. "Otakara! Otakara !" uttered in a son- orous voice. A "takarabune" is a print WRESTLING CONTESTS (loth) depicting a ship with the Seven Divinities The first series of performances of this of Luck and treasures of all sorts on national game extends over ten days, be- board. It is supposed that, if it is placed ginning with about the loth day of the under one's bed, it will act as a charm New Year, at the Kokugikan in Honjo, to make one dream a lucky dream, which an umbrella-shaped' structure with the will keep one in luck all the rest of the interior arranged like an amphitheatre. year. Such a dream is called "hatsu- A list of the names of the wrestlers in yume," or "the first dream of, the year." the two rival camps, east and west, ar- "SEIJI-HAJIME" (4th) ranged in order of importance, is issued This date is an important one on the on the 8th, and on the day previous to Court calendar, as a day on which His the opening day, some half dozen bands Majesty the Emperor conducts the com- of men go about the city streets advertis- mencement exercises of the transaction ing the athletic event by beating a big of state affairs, with the ministers of drum slung on a pole carried on the state and other dignitaries in attendance. shoulders of two men. "SHINNEN-ENKAI (5th) "AZUKIGAI" (15th) The Court gives a banquet to the This is a kind of gruel, containing princes and princesses of the Imperial "azuki" (red beans) and rice cakes, Blood, high officers of state, and other eaten on the 15th according to the time- 244 THE MID-PACIFIC

honored custom. This custom, like oth- the poems composed and presented by ers already mentioned, originates from all sorts and conditions of men, on the the superstititous belief that the eating subject selected and announced in the of the gruel gives to the eater the en- previous year by the Imperial Bureau of joyment of immunity of the body from Poetry, some dozens are selected after all influences that are prejudicial to per- careful sifting, and these are read out fect health. in the presence of Their 'Majesties in the Phoenix Hall at 9 o'clock in the "YABUIRI" (15th and 16th) morning of the i8th. These days are great red-letter days The Crown Prince and the members for servants and apprentices, being one of the Imperial family are also present. of the two occasion when they are freed The poems are read, or rather chanted, from a life of captivity—days on which one by one by those especially trained they "wash life," by which we Japanese in the art. Poems selected out of the humorously express the idea of recrea- thousands presented by His Majesty's tion, rubbing off the dust from our souls. subjects are first read out, followed by Ueno and Asakusa—two popular holiday those composed by the Princes and resorts in the Capital—are crowded with Princesses of the Imperial Blood, by the these holiday-makers who are anxious Crown Prince and Princess, and finally to get the fullest enjoyment out of the by Their Majesties. It has been observed freedom temporarily allowed them, and by some one who attended one of these also to make the contents of their purses meetings that the chanting of the poems go farthest. Theaters, music-halls, and was beautifully in keeping with the at- photo-plays are liberally patronized by mosphere of the occasion, being "sweet- these uncaged "birds." Those who have ness long drawn out," yet solemn and parents or relatives in Tokyo go back to dignified withal ; and that the European them for a time ; and those unfortunates, style in which all those present were who owe their bringing up to some asy- attired and the chairs on which they lum, are drawn by affection to the insti- were seated were the only two features tution from which they have been that struck discordant notes in the vis- fledged ; they take with them some pres- ionary scene, in which the participants ents—trifling, to be sure, but very ac- were temporarily wafted away from the ceptable to the receivers—as tokens of prosaic present to the romantic past, gratitude to the officials who have been chiefly by the delicate vocal music very kind to them: coupled with the solemnity of the occa- sion. It may be appropriate to note here "WAKA-HIKO" (18th) that the subject of the poem for this New This is the New Year poetical meeting Year is "Enzan no Yuki," or "Snow on held at the Court on the 18th. Out of the Distant Mountains." Frozen beef for the London market.

Australia as a Manufacturing Nation By AMBROSE PRATT.

(Mr. Pratt is one of the leading novelists and "leader" writers in Australia. He is a regular contributor to "Australia To-day" (the Commonwealth's great annual) and an ardent supporter of the Pan-Pacific work. He spent some weeks in Hawaii studying that "human inter-racial experiment station" and the work of the Pan-Pacific Union. He is a leading authority on any subject upon which he writes, and the following article concerning one phase of Australia's struggle to attain self-containment is worthy of the fullest consideration.—Ed.) r1---1 HE outstanding lesson of the self-containment. We may count our- third year of Australia's partic- selves extremely fortunate today that our ipation in the war consists in the political forbears were not merely con- demonstration afforded to society of the tent to develop the primary resources of supreme wisdom of a policy of national the commonwealth, but insisted, at least

245 246 THE MID-PACIFIC to some extent, on promoting a course of threatens Australia with. a period of al- symmetrical industrial development, and most absolute isolation, at all events thereby facilitated the establishment of a from Europe. Our trade with the East broad-based system of manufacturing ac- and with America is certainly increas- tivities. As a consequence of their far- ing; but in view of our ardent national sightedness, the outbreak of the great desire to promote the ideal of a self-con- war found the Australian people more tained and self-supporting empire, we dependent on external manufacturers can hardly regard that development with for the dispensable superfluities than for perfect unconcern. the essentials of civilized life ; and it The Mother Country. found them, also, fairly well equipped with the enterprise, the talent, and the To be dependent on Britain for the ar- materials required to proceed to carry ticles we do not or cannot manufacture into effect the urgent advice of the for ourselves is a policy that lies very perial government to each of the Do- close to the heart of all Australians, and minions—viz., to make themselves as in- we have done something to make it prac- dependent as possible of the finished pro- tical by enacting a preferential tariff sys- ducts of the outer world. It is, unhap- tem. But the conditions created by the pily, only too true that Australia must war have operated during the last couple still travel a vast distance to reach the of years to render nugatory the protec- indicated goal, but we may congratulate tion thereby accorded British manufac- ourselves that we are already supplying turers, and per force of circumstance, out of our own efforts almost two-thirds the market we wished to assure to them of our total requirements of consump- is passing into the keeping of alien, al- tiOn. beit friendly, hands. Our only present prospect, therefore, of checking a devel- The meaning of the above, in terms of opment which seems to menace the post- war economies, is both simple and grati- bellum interests of Britain is to encour- fying. By virtue of our manufacturing age the enlargement of our own indus- activities, we have been able to circulate trial edifice, and to do everything that is and to retain within the commonwealth possible to facilitate the employment of approximately Li m000,000 per annum imperial capital therein. The captains of since the war began, a sum which other- enterprise in the mother country are no wise must either have been spent abroad doubt particularly engrossed at this mo- or must have remained locked up from ment with the prodigious responsibilities use. In the former case, the nation must which the war has imposed upon them ; have been shorn of its capacity to finance but we are convinced that they could and the war to the tune of 1170,000,000 per would spare—without injury to the war annum, and, in the other case, the fertil- —some portion of their illimitable capital izing uses of uo,000,000—retained and energy to defend the economic cause from circulation—would have been lost of empire in the commonwealth if they to the community, and, in addition, the were thoroughly apprised of the ten- people of Australia would have been dency that we have been considering. compelled to do without their customary supplies of manufactured goods. The Openings for New Industries in Aus- great value to the nation of its established tralia. manufactories is further emphasized by The openings for new industries in the , fact that shipping space is a contin- Australia are numerous and rightly full uously contracting quantity, and it even of promise, and it is very clear that the THE MID-PACIFIC 247 immediate effect of their establishment the importance of British manufacturers would be to curtail the expenditure seizing the present opportunity to estab- abroad of large sums of money that we lish branch factories in the Common- cannot thus disburse without detriment wealth. both to Britain and ourselves. To cite The War and Its Effects a single illustration, What is there to pre- Since the war commenced, the total vent British capital founding an Austra- number of manufacturing establishments lian tin-plate industry? We produce all in Australia has declined from 15,427 to the crude material required. All we need 15,092, and the number of hands em- is the machinery and the skill which Brit- ployed from 331,579 to about 321,000. ish manufacturers, better than any oth- These bare statistical facts, however, do ers the wide world over, can supply— not convey a true picture without ex- whereupon they could secure the Austra- planation. The total number of factories lian market from all chance of present or has diminished partly through the ex- future capture by the foreigner. And it tinction of certain enterprises that per- has to be remembered that we are great ished for want of capital and other cog- users of tin plates, and that our consump- nate causes, and partly through the tion thereof in industry is evidently des- amalgamation of small establishments in tined to increase enormously. We would larger concerns. On the surface of the earnestly advise British capitalists to de- main body there is always a fringe of vote immediate attention, both in their struggling businesses which succeed or interests and in ours, to a sympathetic fail according to the chances of the study of the general problem we have times. Many of these have disappeared touched upon. It is true that they can since August, 1904; but, on the other rely on the people and the Government hand, the main body of solid industries of the Commonwealth signalizing the has been materially augmented. We now restoration of peace with the formulation possess, for example, a strongly-estab- and enforcement of a preferential tariff lished steel industry, which is beginning system calculated to do much in the to flourish luxuriantly under the stimulus way of restoring to British manufactur- of the war, and which promises ultimate- ers such trade with us as they have lost ly to make the nation independent of ex- through the war, and has not been re- ternal supplies of raw and manufactured placed by Australian manufacturing de- steel. Since the steel industry is the root velopment. There is every reason to be- and basis of all others, the development lieve, indeed, that our present Govern- in question has qualified the Common- ment has in contemplation a tariff with wealth to rank with countries with which four schedules for the purpose of dis- we hardly dared formerly, in the indus- criminating between imports from Britain trial sense, to compare ourselves. Ad- and imports from Allied and enemy coun- mittedly we have still a great deal to do tries. Inasmuch, however, as the funda- before we can aspire to a stature of com- mental object of this new tariff must be plete self-reliance ; but the chief initial to protect Australian manufacturers difficulties have already been overcome, against the whole outer world, and its and the rest of the road contains no ability to prefer British manufacturers hindrances that cannot be readily sur- substantially to all others, must neces- mounted. No other country has greater sarily dqpend on the nature of Britain's or richer ore resources, and although our economic agreements with her Allies, it steel industry is as yet in its infant stages, would be impossible too greatly to stress it has proved itself capable of producing 248 THE MID-PACIFIC high-quality material at a reasonable cost. The Outlook Works, moreover, are in progress which, All told, the manufacturing outlook of when completed, will both cheapen the Australia is a bright one, and it seems present cost of production and assure an output sufficient to overtake a large per- to involve a solution of most of the major centage of the national requirements. difficulties that will infallibly beset us, in Steel Industry and Ship-Building common with every civilized country, As a direct outcome of the steel in- when the war ends. The fair-minded in- dustry development, the Commonwealth vestigator, nevertheless, is bound to con- Government has been enabled to contem- fess that all is not plain sailing. Dur- plate the immediate establishment of a ing the past three years there have been ship-building industry on a large scale. tentatively established in the Common- The purpose of this enterprise is to as- sist Britain and her Allies in their gigan- wealth a considerable number of work- tic task of making good the shipping ton- shops to manufacture articles that were nage sunk and destroyed by the German formerly imported from the older world, pirate submarines, and, incidentally, to where they can be made in normal times increase our exiguous available means of at a cost incomparably below that of the transporting our huge stores of wheat Australian cost of production. Lack of and wool to Europe. Of necessity some transport space and the diversion of Eu- time must elapse before we can launch ropean factories to war uses combined our first tocean-going vessel, for an to cut off the supply of these commodi- enormous quantity of preliminary work ties to Australian consumers. These con- must be done and much machinery built ditions tempted local manufacturers to or otherwise provided. The Govern- step in and supply a demand that must ment's plans, however, are maturing otherwise have gone unsatisfied. In some rapidly, and as we are by no means instances these Australian manufacturers destitute of the expert organizing and have profited substantially from their en- mechanical talent needed to forward the terprise, and, with few exceptions, they venture, and have ample stores of crude have done well. But unless something is material for all present purposes at dis- done before the restoration of peace to posal, it may be confidently predicted place them in a position to compete on that a start will be made before this year favorable terms with the old-world manu- closes. Beyond doubt, the project will facturer when the war ends, there is not have far-reaching consequences, and must one of these establishments that can rea- beneficially affect all phases of our social sonably expect to survive the war. Peace, and industrial well-being. Even already indeed, menaces them all with oblitera- it has imparted a penetrating stimulus to tion. It may be argued, of course, that the development and expansion of sev- they do not deserve to survive if they eral allied industries, and, in particular, can only live in such circumstances as the it has to be credited with having caused war has created, but free-trade argu- many of our engineering establishments ments do not consort with Australian to prepare for the construction of engines national sentiment, and it may be hoped wherewith to propel the ships the Com- that they will not be permitted to settle monwealth Government intends to build. the question. A corner in the old church grounds.

A Little Trip To Old Vigan

By A. DALE RILEY.

F ALL the Philippine roads that hour, early one Saturday afternoon, call, those old Spanish highways plowing through sand and gravel for two 0 of Northern Luzon still seem to weary kilometers until we had emerged me the best, and so it was with delight- from the little strip of land—a part of ful anticipation that I accepted a seat the Mountain Province—which had been in a little Everett car with some friends given to it with Tagudin as an outlet to who had come out from San Francisco the sea. After that we had to make a on their way to old •Vigan. detour around a new piece of road work, In the car were the superintendent of but beyond lay the joys of the open road. schools of the Mountain Province, Mr. These joys could not be indulged in, Thomas ; the superintendent at San however, until we replaced an inner tube Fernando, Mr. King; my friend Kemp, at San Estaban, for one we had blown and a Mr. Hickman, whose home was out by giving too many people a "lift." our destination in Vigan. Kemp, who The Mountain Province with its had won the last motorcycle races at the mighty peaks soon faded when we gath- Baguio fair, drove the car, and before ered speed on the level road. Broad that trip was over—through no real stretches of flat rice land spread away fault of his, however—we had had a few to the low hills, standing out mere light- unforeseen experiences. brown hummocks against the background We left Tagudin during the siesta of those mighty mountains that raced

249 250 THE MID-PACIFIC with us though blurred with distance as ing but ruins of some of the church we neared the sea. buildings, must have passed it by. It Ilocos is the land of rice and corn and is fortunate for the church and convent cane, though no sign of rice now re- are among the most picturesque I have mained but the flat paddies, cracked with seen in the islands, standing as they do the dry-season heat. Here and there we upon a high mound, built up with but- caught the pungent odor of boiling sugar, tresses of rock and small stones, and ap- and many an old-fashioned mill hidden proached by broad flights of easy steps. away under a nipa roof, screeched its Near Suso the road winds along the vain protest to the. passer-by—and al- rocky shore, and at one point is cut ways there were the ox-drawn, amacan- through the rock itself. This place is covered carromattas laden with corn, called the Pidig Cut, and as one winds whole processions of them, plodding around the peak the road sinks, in a along to the markets. gradual slope almost to the surface of These long, white roads that are now the sea, and rises in a gradual slope be- such a joy to the autoist were built in yond until it narrows away almost as times when the governors had their mag- far as the eye can reach, a light-grey nificent summer residences at Suso, over- ribbon, soiled with the specks of moving looking the sea. The building itself is carts. nothing but a pile of ruins now where In this part of Luzon the rivers rise goats browse on the weeds and coarse in the rainy season to such a height that grass that grow in the crevices of the they spread over large areas, and for rocks, and only the occasional sign-posts that reason bridges are impracticable. of brick and stone, the walled sections The rivers are crossed on balsas, or rafts, of the old roadway, and the little, way- pulled by one or two men along bejuco side shrines bereft of their images, re- cables, consequently you are continually call the days when Vigan was in its glory wondering whether the balsa will be on and gay cavalcades went clattering by your side of the next river you must these walls en route to the capital. cross, and you waste your wonderment Old Spanish churches and convents —for it usually isn't, or if it is there are rise out of the distance long before one others ahead of you to make you wait. can see the nipa-roofs of the little towns. In Ilocos Sur automobiles are always This is fortunate for the driver of a car given precedence, but in La Union, for the streets of the towns are usually where the Filipino engineer wished to in- filled with dirty children, squealing pigs, augurate thirigs, because he had recently running chickens, stray sheep and goats been appointed, for a while one had to that refuse to run, and always and ever wait, sometimes for hours, while a whole that bane of the islands, the skulking, string of ox-carts would be taken across. skinny, %little "yaller dog." Once we However, I believe this order has been whirled around a corner into a market changed. place, killed a chicken and a pig, and It was on one of these Balsas that we Kemp nearly *ripped his gears—that had the most exciting experience of the town hadn't any church. whole trip. Toward evening we had The finest old buildings were at Can- come to the beautiful gap of the Abra don, Santa Maria and Narvacan. The river. This time, instead of waiting for church at Santa Maria has a picturesque the Balsa to come for us, we found it clock-tower, and is so well-preserved on our side of the river and drove right that the insurrectionists, who left noth- onto it. Then we had to wait for the THE MID-PACIFIC 251 balsero, and while we were waiting Kemp came under American rule, were located fixed the engine so it would start easily the military headquarters for the. Sec- when we arrived at the other bank, for ond district, Northern Luzon, in com- it was now getting late, and we were in mand of General Bell. a hurry. We had given ourselves enough It is a town of fine old buildings, that time to travel the hundred kilometers I have not seen equalled elsewhere out- from Tagudin, without figuring in time side of Manila. The church quadrangle for the rivers. The balsero had arrived with its large stone markers, its long and we were nearly across when Kemp buildings with their conventional balco- decided to start the engine, a wise thing nies, gleaming white in the sunlight, its to do under the circumstances if the cat:- fine walks and old trees recalls the days bureter hadn't been flooding ever since it when the Spanish kings sent their ships had been "fixed." As it was, gasoline over the seven seas, to conquer new had dripped out onto the floor of the lands with the sword and the cross and balsa, and a back-fire did the rest. increase the mighty power and glory of Our first thought was to push the car Spain. away from the burning gasoline on the Over in the business part of the town balsa, and so several of us seized the where the narrow streets are lined with brake, to throw it off so we could move Chinese shops and the market women the car. Kemp yelled : go flopping around the pavements with "Somebody get me a blanket !" their baskets of chicos and lanzones on "No," called Thomas, "push her in the their heads and the town loafers walk river !" • about with fighting cocks under their "First," cried Hickman, "put the arms, one sees the signs of modernity, brake off !" this man carries water in the same old- I tried to obey all three, while King fashioned way, a• stick across his shoul- started taking things out bf the car. ders on either end of which he balances By this time Kemp had discovered a the water—in Standard Oil cans, an old new use for a woolen cap and smothered Celestial comes to the door of his little the fire out, but when he cranked his car shop smoking a long pipe, but, over his he soon found that someone had mistaken head, the well-known sign, "Kodak," and the gear-lever for the brake. Fortu- further down the narrow thoroughfare, nately one of us was near the lever when "Sussman and Wormser" greets the eye. it started. But here in the quadrangle one forgets Late that night we arrived in Vigan. these brief signs of the times—forgets Vigan is an old town. It was there the Vigan of recent, days, shamed during that Salcedo was given a friendly wel- the insurrection by the riot of its people come by the natives, when his men were and the outrage to its priests. There too, exhausted to go on to the Cagayan stands a pinnacle, looking like our own River, and he had to put back from Washington monument in miniature, yet Cape Bojeador. That was back in 1572, had Washington himself once visited and it was then that Salcedo decided far-off isles, he might have seen that to make it a Spanish town in order to monument where it stands today, 'and he rule the surrounding country, and he might then have had the advantage of set the people to work cutting timber to seeing in truth what the traveler can now build a fort. Here, centuries later, when see only in dreams ; gay Castilians parad- the Philippines passed out of the hands ing these quiet walks, and soldiers of the of the Spanish, who had held them prac- garrison loitering in the shade of the tically since the days of Magellan, and trees. 252 THE MID-PACIFIC The Lahainaluna slope behind Lahaina.

Lahainaluna

By MARGARET B. MACDONALD.

T MAY interest even those outside writes of the school at that time : "A of the Hawaiian Islands to read shed or booth made of poles and grass I something of a school for Hawaiian was thrown together as a screen from the boys that was established in the old Cap- sun to answer for a time as a school- ital of Hawaii, Lahaina, on the island of house. In a few weeks the scholars com- Maui, nearly a century ago, and is still menced building a more permanent accomplishing the best work done for the house. After some accidents, the walls Hawaiian lads in the island territory. of a stone building, 56x26, were finished The Lahainaluna Seminary was estab- and a roof put on, which was covered lished by the American Protestant Mis- with ti leaves. The building was erected sion in 1831, its original purpose being entirely by the students. The next year for the training of young men for the the scholars went to the mountains and ministry and for teaching. The land was hewed planks from large trees. From given by the wife of Hoapili, the Gov- these planks, which they carried down ernor of Maui, best known as Hoapili- to the school, they made seats and forms wahine. The Rev. Lorrin Andrews was on which to commence writing. They the first teacher. The Rev. Sheldon Dib- procured wood and coral with much ble, in his history of the Sandwich labor and burnt lime and they carried Islands published at Lahainaluna in 1843, sand from the seashore and plastered the

253 254 THE MID-PACIFIC house. In December, 1833, a second In 1849 the American Board of Mis- hand printing press was received from sions was in financial difficulties and the Honolulu and in February, 1834, the first school was taken over by the govern- number of an Hawaiian newspaper was ment. printed, the first west of the Mississippi. The Rev. John F. Pogue succeeded It was called "Lama Hawaii," "The Mr. Alexander and during his adminis- Light of Hawaii." tration, in 1862, the Seminary building In 1836 an important change was made was burned, and rebuilt in the same year. in the school. Theretofore the scholars Dr. Sereno Bishop succeeded Mr. Pogue had consisted almost entirely of adults, as principal and during the last year he and only those were taken who could had charge, 1877, the medium of instruc- support themselves. But in 1836 it was tion was changed from Hawaiian to Eng- resolved to admit only young students lish. Dr. Bishop was succeeded by Mr. between the ages of ten and twenty H. R. Hitchcock and during Mr. Hitch- years. cock's time manual training was strongly "In 1842 a careful inquiry showed that emphasized. of the 158 'living, who had been students, In 1905 the old class room building 105 were teachers, 35 government offi- and dormitories were torn down and new cers, 7 in other useful employment and 1I ones, to accommodate one hundred stu- doing nothing, or worse." dents, were erected. In the same year In 1843 the Rev. Sheldon Dibble pub- an electric lighting plant was installed. lished at Lahainaluna his "History of the Three cottages for teachers, as well as Sandwich Islands." This was considered new barns and shops were built by the such a valuable contribution to the his- students. The school continued to grow tory of Hawaii that in 1909, a reprint and in 1912 a new dining hall and an- was made of it by Mr. Thrum. For some other dormitory were added. In 1904 years previous to this it was so rare that and 1905 a strenuous effort was made to large sums were paid for a single copy. reclaim the taro lands, but after much Mr. Dibbles' method of collecting data labor had been expended it was found for this work was to make out a list of impossible to raise enough taro for the questions arranged chronologically. He school after it had been decided that the would then select ten of the best students school could have the valley water only and form them into a class of inquiry. four and a quarter hours each day. In He had them go individually to the oldest 1909 the school began to raise sugar cane and most intelligent of the chiefs and on its own land for the Pioneer Mill people, gain all the information they Company. In the past eight years about could, commit it to writing and they $33,000 has been derived from the cane read it to him. Out of it all Mr. Dibble for the support of the school. In March made a connected and true account. of last year, a new macadam road, with The Rev. William Alexander took grade not exceeding eight per cent., was charge of the school in 1843 and con- built by the government from Lahaina tinued as principal for thirteen years. In to the school. Theretofore, the rough, him the seminary had an able instructor steep road, at no time good, was often and a man especially endowed with exec- almost impassable. The new road is a utive ability. It has been said that his joy and delight. pupils looked up to and delighted in him At the last session of the Legislature in a way which it is impossible to de- the school was placed under a commis- scribe. sion. THE MID-PACIFIC 255

In additipn to the regular grammar On the farm, new fields are being pre- grade work, courses are given in book- pared for alfalfa, and the gardens are keeping, typewriting, mechanical and ar- being enlarged to supply more vegetables chitectural drawing, sanitation and civics, for the dining hall ; the piggery is in- commercial arithmetic and business Eng- creasing; suitable houses and runs are lish. being made for one thousand hens. A In the shops, the aim is to fit the boys herd of Holstein cows has just been im- to earn a living and the work is adapted ported from California to increase the to conditions in Hawaii. In the printing supply of milk for the students. There shop, letter and bill heads, envelopes, is an abundance of honey for the dining tickets and school readers are being hall. Bananas, papaias, oranges and printed. In the carpenter shop, book pears are grown. In addition the school cases, drafting tables, teachers' desks, is caring for twenty-one acres of plant water gates and sluices, chicken houses cane which is growing well, in spite of and brooder's are being made and in ad- the drought of last summer. dition to this the buildings are kept in Since the new dining hall was built repair. This, -with the practical work in the living conditions are greatly im- painting and the care and use of tools proved. There is an abundance of plain give valuable experience for the students but wholesome food, prepared and served in this shop. • under the supervision of a matron. One cannot estimate in dollars and cents what In blacksmithing, the repairing of this has meant to the boys in health and flush tanks, installing the Skinner system comfort. for irrigating the alfalfa, making chains, Organized play is under the direction rings, bolts, hinges, making, sharpening of the Alexander House Settlement. This and tempering chisels, making drills and work is well started and the school knives, repairing plows and wagons, cul- teams are taking a great interest in the tivators, shop tools, making tongs for contests. Dodge and volley ball, indoor shop use, and plumbing constitute some base ball, as well as other games, are be- of the work of this department. ing played. Thus with days full of work Machinery for more advanced work and a certain amount of well directed in carpentry and machine shop work is play, wholesome food, pleasant surround- to be introduced in the near future and ings and regular habits, the boys at La- a department in automobile repairs may hainaluna are developing, it is . hoped, be installed. into strong and useful citizens. 256 THE MID-PACIFIC

The so-called cold or mountain lakes of New Zealand are on the south island and combine vistas of placid waters and snow-clad peaks reflected as in a mirror. Automobile roads lead to and around some of these lakes. Lake and Mountain in New Zealand.

Motoring in New Zealand

By ELSIE K. MORTON, of the Auckland Weekly News. x (Continued.)

The Mountains of Lindis. a riband of white flung across wide Continuing our tour, a good stretch of spaces of brown tussock, splashed vivid- road brings us from Wanaka to the ly with bright red sorrel fields, with em- River Clutha, another of those magic erald green of oats and wheat, amazingly rivers of the gold-rush days. We make luxuriant. Coming after the stark, a novel crossing on a punt worked by starved desert land of the Cardrona, the the current and a long wire cable contrast, on entering Tarras Valley is stretched from bank to bank. And now, striking. Here you pass through one of the face of the country is changed—for the most fertile of all New Zealand's a time ! All the rest of the day we speed fertile farming districts, cosy homesteads across land as flat as your hand and peep out from groves of poplars, flocks silent as the grave, the smooth, dust- of fat sheep appear as moving flocks of heavy road stretching ahead illimitably, white on green pastures, and ever ahead

257 258 THE MID-PACIFIC

lie the mountains of the Southern Alps, beside the track. At last we are out on mistily blue, shadowed with violet as the Lindis Pass, over 3000 feet in height, in clouds sweep fleetly by. a world of impregnable mountain slopes, Then the country grows rough and mile upon mile of broken cliffs and utter broken once more. The mountains of loneliness. Too wild, too rugged it Lindis loom ahead, and toward evening seems for any living creature to find we come to the Lindis river, tearing its foothold or food, yet presently, there be- way through a deep ravine, pausing here fore us, is a herd of the red deer for and there in great still pools, chryso- which Central Otago is famous among phrase green, brooding and mysterious sportsmen. These graceful creatures in the gathering gloom. At Lindis, we look at us with soft, inquiring eyes, then are to spend the night, and complete turn and run nimbly; standing erect on the trip to Mt. Cook the following day. a jutting ledge of rock, secure, aloof, The hotel, an unpretentious but comfort- they watch us out of sight. able little - place lies out on the edge of A swift run brings us to Omarama, a lonely little valley between the hills, another of the quiet little hamlets that the only visible habitation in wide miles still live in the dreaming aftermath of of desolation. At sunset, this wild coun- the old mining days ; once a thriving try is transfigured, and radiant beauty township, Omarama is now a sun-baked lies over all the world ; the snow peaks village with one hotel, a few cottages, of the mountains on the horizon flash children and chickens, and so it dreams and glow with fire, a veil of amethyst on in its last long sleep, the Mt. Cook softens the outline of precipice and ra- motor-car the only disturbing echo of vine, and the peace and almost palpable the hurrying world beyond. A cup of stillness of desert places falls on Lindis morning tea sheds a distinctly humaniz- with the twilight. ing aspect over the whole place, how- At eight o'clock in the morning we are ever, and as we set out on the last lap on our way again. The great 6o h. p. of seventy -miles to the Hermitage, the Darracq plunges heavily through the loneliness beyond seems greater for the Lindis river a few yards from the hotel, voices and temporary stir of activity and we enter the Lindis Gorge. Por caused by our passing. On and on we rugged. grandeur, that long run through speed, now back once more, after a long Lindis Gorge stands out as the most awe- stretch of unsettled country, into a land inspiring, the most memorable of the of trees and pastures, with here and there whole tour. Higher and higher rise the the habitations of men, homesteads of cliffs, closer and closer pressing to the prosperous station-owners. track, until at last the road is a mere "Aorangi, Cloud in the Heavens." thread winding at the foot of walls of About this time, our necks begin to solid rock hundreds of feet high. In crane in an endeavor to get first glimpse many places huge boulders hang sus- of Mt. Cook, "Aorangi, Cloud in the pended over us ; it seems as if the merest Heavens," to give him his beautiful na- push of the hand would send them tive name. And presently, a cloud on crashing down! So close are the con- the far horizon drifts lazily by, and there verging walls that the sky shows as but he is, our monarch of the mountains, his a narrow strip of blue above the black; proud head raised in dazzling whiteness ! a vast, hot, shimmering stillness lies Still over fifty miles away, that far-off over all, broken only by the throb of peak bears the royal investiture of dig- the motor and the singing of the river nity borne only by monaarchs ; you know THE MID-PACIFIC 259 him at once in that first glimpse for King thousand feet, with a solid ice wall Zoo of the Southern Alps, that wonderful feet high mounting the top. region of glacier and mountain that On either side of the road rise moun- forms the backbone of New Zealand's tain slopes and the serrated outline of southern islands. noble peaks, clad in stainless panoply of We bring our gaze back from the white. Through the valley, studded mountains to find ahead a lake, Lake with herds of cattle and flocks of sheep, Pukaki, our chauffeur tells us, a placid, runs the Hooker river, a torrent fed by polished sheet of azure, rippled with far ice fields, blue with the marvellous sunbeams, fed by glacier streams, blue as blue of melting snows, silvered with the blue you might see in a dream of swirl of foam cresting its turbulent wave- sapphires and opals dissolved together in lets. living radiance, and spread beneath the • Presently a handsome gabled building gold of the sun. comes into view flanked by the only patch From the shores of Pukaki you get a of native bush in the valley—the Her- closer glimpse of the everlasting hills, mitage at last, nestling in the very shad- mirrored deep in still waters, the Moor- ow of the peaks of the Sealey Range. house Range, Mt. Sefton, Mt. Cook and The wonders of that region of snow a host of lesser giants. At Pukaki we and ice form an ever-memorable climax have lunch, and then commence the de- to the record of the Grand Motor Tour. tour that lands us at the Hermitage, Mt. Here might one spend a month, the white Cook's famous hostel. All afternoon the glory of the Alps a. tonic incomparable big car races on, for many miles beside for jaded nerves. Over beyond the val- the shores of the lake, then into the stone ley lie age-old marvels of glacier and and tussock of the McKenzie country, moraine, ice-fall and snow-field, and if famous for its sheep. The road lies now you come in spring, the exquisite beauty through the Tasman Valley, and far on of Alpine flowers. For the climber there the right is the shining blue of the Tas- is the challenge of Aorangi, 12,349 feet man river making its way down to Pu- high, Sefton and all the other giants of kaki. the Alps ; for the less venturesome, there Presently into the landscape comes a are trips to nearer glaciers, sport of ski- strange and beautiful sight—a won- ing and glissading, and the exploring of drous river of white curving to the base ice caves and the fastnesses of rock- of Aorangi, a river of solid ice, close bound moraine. The Grand Motor Tour on 2000 feet deep, glittering in marvel- merely introduces you to this region of lous lights and shadows beneath the wonders, and leaves you to pursue afternoon sun. It is the mighty Tasman further acquaintance as you see fit. Glacier, over 18 miles long, one of the So we will suppose that one day you greatest in the world outside the polar take your seat again in the car, and start regions. And now Mt. Cook disappears, on your way back to the world of men and Sefton dominates the landscape, and cities. And you will find your mind vast, rugged, a mighty sentinel guarding surfeited with all you have seen, so that the head of the valley. Great rifts and it matters not at all that after Queens- black scars show where the snow mantle town and Wanaka and the glory of the has slipped from his majestic shoulders, mountains, the rest of the tour is but emphasizing the dazzling purity of that pleasantly interesting rather than spec- eternal robe. Up near the summit, a tacular. sheer rock face stretches down over a A morning's run brings us back from 260 TH.E MID-PACIFIC

the Hermitage to Pukaki in time for footstool of the God of the Everlasting lunch ; afternoon tea is served at Teka- Hills, and seen the eternal majesty of po, first of the incomparable chain of His handiwork. And the memory of it lakes that reaches far south into Otago, will be something to hold closely through placid and radiantly blue as those you all your later days. have left behind. The way lies for many Now that war has closed the usual miles over barren shingle country, up to ocean pathways to the 'scenic wonders Burke's Pass, a quaint village of old- of the old world, dwellers in the South- time association, and finally through ern Seas are coming to know more of fertile farm-lands into the quiet village the beauties of their own lands, and to of Fairlie, half a day's train journey spread abroad their fame. From far from the city of Timaru. across the seas New Zealand sends a And you make your way back to civ- welcome to all who seek new beairties ilization with the feeling that you have and charm, to all who would rest and been vouchsafed a rare and wonderful forget; in her rivers and lakes you will experience ; you have looked on the des- olation of a land forsaken and on hear the ceaseless song of rejoicing, in beauty unsurpassed anywhere in this her mountains the Voice of comfort and wide world ; you have come to the very peace. A bit of 'Sumatra architecture.

The Island of Sumatra

By F. V. GROET.

T HROUGHOUT Java, the Dutch Archipelago from its tempests, and de- East Indies, Sumatra is called scends to the east into a broad plain, T Poelo barat ("Western tempest where broad rivers as Rekan, Kampar, island), Poelo pert jah ("Rubber island") Kwanten, Batang Hari, Moesi, Mesoedji, or Poelo andelas ("Snake Island") is Toelangbawang and others by their after Java the most important, and after bandjirs(flood), deposit their fertile allu- Borneo the largest of all the Sunda vium, which has waited for ages, and islands. It contains a long mountain may be waiting still for ages to come, for range the Boekit-barisan (which means a crowding populace to- bring forth rich "an array of mountains") of which harvests. Now only moors and forests Mount Talamau or Ophir has an eleva- cover the plains. The latter with good tion of 13,840 feet, and the Indrapoera timber, sawed by Chinese in the pang- of 12,000 feet. longs of Bengkalis and shipped to Singa- The Boekit-barisan turns face to the pura (Singapore) and Batavia. The im- Western Ocean as it were to guard the mense forests bring forth gigantic quan-

261 262 THE MID-PACIFIC

tities of forest-products : resins, rattan, their being able to become trained to rubber, getah-pertjah, etc. Most coast- gather coconuts from the trees for their lands pl-oduce much copra. masters. Sumatra stretches from 5°, 4' north to The principal towns are Koetgradj a 5°. 59' south, and is divided in two parts and Sigli in the north, Padang with the by the Equator, to which it inclines by fine Emma harbor on the west coast, 45°. Its area is nearly 15o,000 square with Fort de Kock and Padang Pand- miles, larger than California. jang up country, Bencoolen more to the The narrower part of the island in the south. Medan and Palembang are big north near Medan is cultivated under towns on the east coast. The island has Dutch and foreign enterprise and yields a several large and beautiful mountain rich tobacco crop, among the finest in lakes, that of the Gajoe country called the world; rubber and tea also are grown. Laoet-tawar (the sweet water ocean), The west side of the Boekit-barisan the Tobar lake Boo meters above the sea- has much rain; coffee and rubber are level, with an area of 23 square geo- easily grown there, pepper in Atjah, the graphic miles, the beautiful crater lake Lampoengs, the Riau archipelago and of Manindjoe. The lake of Singkarah Bangka (Banka). is a good example of what may be styled In the northern and southern parts of "a sunken block." It is long 18 kilo- the island an abundant quantity of oil is metres, and wide nearly 7. Its depth is found ; in Bencoolen (Bangka-oeloe) between 18o and 240 metres. gold mines are successfully worked. In The Malays are the most prosperous the center of Sumatra, near- Ombilin inhabitants of Sumatra. The island may river, extensive coalfields are found, indeed be looked upon as the cradle of which yield excellent bunkercoal, sold at the Malay tribes in a narrower sense, Padang and in the bay of Sabang on the which spread from there to Malacca and island Poelo Weh, the most northern out- and the Riau (Rhio) Archipelago. post of the sphere of Dutch interest. The Malays of the West Coast govern- After the long war in Atjeh (Acheen), ment are called Minangkabau. Their the whole island has come under the rule language has in many respects deviated of the Dutch, so that travelers will be from the Malay tongue as known in Ma- quite safe in any part of it. lacca. They have still old characters The Gajoes in the plateaux southward derived from an Hindhu alphabet, but it of Atjeh were obliged to submit under has become obsolete and is only in use as Dutch rule. The once ferocious and a kind of secret alphabet for love affairs. man-eating Bataks with traces of an old The inhabitants of the Lampoeng of civilization and literature now mostly re- Bencoolen and the inland of Palembang duced to tales and charms, are becoming still retain this old Malay script, which is Christians or Mohammedans. either engraved in pieces of bamboo or In Southern Sumatra the timid and painted on paper made of tree bark. The savage Koeboes are still to be found, for- Minangkabau people have adopted the merly living in - the trees, but they be- Arab characters in stead of their own as come more and more civilized and mix their nephews in Riau and Djohor did. up with the Malay population. The writing differs much from the Among the fauna of Sumatra are re- spoken language, the final syllables being markable the elephant, the rhinoceros, gradually changing into other sounds. the tapir, tigers, panthers and monkeys. The costume of the men is exceedingly Interesting are the Lampoeng apes for diverse. At home or working in the field THE MID-PACIFIC 263 or plantation he usually wears a kerchief made of wood or bamboo. They are oc- over the head and short breeches or a cupied by several families. The furni- piece of cloth, which only reaches just ture is very simple and practical, still below the knees and is fastened about things of beauty are not lacking, gold the limbs. In full dress the costume of works, silver, copper and tin works of art the man consists of a kerchief, a jacket, may be found as well as fine handweav- a saroeng, belt and breeches. The ker- ings of distinguished colors. A very re- chief is made of cotton cloth either vari- markable feature of Minangkabau life is gated or blue-black, it is stiffened with the fact that the matriarchate system rice starch so as to form a basket shaped prevails. Descendency is reckoned turban. The hadjis (people who have through the mother and not through the been to Mekkah) and oelamas (theolo- paternal line. Husband and wife form gians) generally adopt some Arab fash- no real family, the possessions of each ion of dressing. The costume of the family being kept together as harta poe- women consists chiefly of a badjoe, a saka, which may not be divided by in- kain or loin-cloth and a slendang or heritance. The head of the family is the shawl. The kain is wrapped round the eldest brother of the mother, called the body, fastened to the hips and hanging uncle or mamak. In rights and obliga- down to the feet in such a way that the tions this uncle is really the father to his left foot and leg are exposed almost up nephews and nieces. Only the people to the thigh during walking. The Mi- connected in the female line are mutually nangkabau woman is ornated with hair heir. The feeling of solidarity is highly ornaments and flowers, armlets and developed among the Minangkabau peo- fingerrings. The children run naked up ple. They hold themselves responsible to the age of five or six. They are only not only with the limits of the family but decked out with ornaments in the hair, also for the whole village or country. round the neck, the arms and the ankles. The fellow countrymen can only be re- The dwellings are usually built on poles, leased from responsibility by solemnly the number of divisions denoting the im- repudiating an evil-doer. The occur- portance of the house. The roof usually rences in family life as birth, naming, terminates into horn-shaped points and betrothal, marriage and interment give some of them have a similar small inde- occasion to feasting and ceremony. pendent roof in the center. Larger Everything is as much as possible houses have a kind of upper rooms on brought in relation to the Mohammedan one or both sides, from one to six in religion now professed by all the Mi- number. The rear part is composed of nangkabau people, or indeed by all the small rooms separated from each other inhabitants of Sumatra with the excep- by bamboo, cotton or wooden shelves, tion of a few forlorn Koeboes and of a and serving as sleeping rooms for mar- number of Bataks who have become ried couples and marriageable girls ; the Christians. Christianity does not pros- front part is the common family room. per much in the island. The native fes- At the side of the door is found the fire tivals have been replaced by those of the place. Above it a loft is found, used for keeping different articles for cooking and Arabs. A remarkable fact, showing the daily use. The door is reached by a road along which the Islam proceeded stairway. Under the house is the shel- to Sumatra is the celebration of the death tering place • for buffaloes, horses, fowls of Muhammed's grandson Husein, which and ducks. The houses are generally is not commemorated by the Arabs but 264 THE MID-PACIFIC

held in great repute by the Persians and Ceylon and Manila. The atmospheric in Hindustan. disturbance was so great, that airwaves On the island Poelo Weh the Dutch passed three and a quarter times round have made a big harbor with accommo- the globe, and the finer particles floating dation for steamers and excellent coaling in the higher part of the atmosphere pro- facilities. To the west of Atjeh is the duced remarkable colors in the sky at island Simeuleu with a large production sunset for more than two years after- of timber. . wards and in all parts of the world. Nias, an island of 75 square geograph- The Riau (or Rhio) Archipelago is in ical miles with a good anchorage at the the immediate neighborhood of Singa- southern point, is inhabited by a tribe pore. It consists of a great number of differing in many respects from the islands. One of the largest is Bintan, Malay. The Nias people (the word 21 geographical miles, with a mountain ought to be written niha, which is the peak of 4020 feet high. The capital is name given by the aborigines to them- Tandjoeng Pinang. The coasts are cov- selves, the word means ; man, human be- ered with mangroves, and coral reefs ing) are much fairer than the Malay and make the islands difficult to approach. well built ; the eyes are small, the mouth Many mail routes are passing this archi- big and the nose flattened, whilst the pelago and credit is due to the Dutch ears are deformed because of the orna- coast lighting service, that this archipel- ments worn. The women are goodlook- ago is one of the best lighted parts of the ing and up to the nineteenth century world, especially the Straits of Riau, many of them were sold as slaves. which connect the Malacca Straits with the Chinese Sea, is well beaconed and The inhabitants of Enggano or Poelo buoyed, so that it affords a safe passage Telandjang (the islands of the naked to ships of any tonnage. On the islands, people) are gradually becoming extinct. gambir (Uncaria gambir Roxb or Cate- Now with subvention of the Dutch Gov- chu), pepper, coconuts, pineapples and ernment Bataks are imported by mission- mangoes are grown. To the south lies aries. The national weapon is a long the island Singkep, which has tin mines. lance. The large islands Bangka (or Banka) To the south of Sumatra in the Sunda and Blitoeng (or Billiton) are separated Straits some small uninhabited islands from Sumatra by Banka Straits, and are found, one of which, is the volcanic from Borneo by the Karimata Straits. Krakatau (or Karkata, the Cancer They consist of big granite blocks, and island) well known by its terrific erup- contain iron and other metals, but the tion in the year 1883. The destruction principal ore is tin. The islands are was effected by great floods, which en- covered with young forests and shrubs. tirely destroyed many villages on the Hardly any grass is found and cereals coast of Java and Sumatra, causing the only in small quantities, but pepper and death of nearly 39,000 persons. The gambir will easily grow. The islands sound of the explosions was heard at are inhabited by Malays and Chinese. The Temple of Heaven, Pelemly.

The New and Old East Journeys to Hankow, Peking, Kobe, Osaka.

By J. W. ALLEN.

ANKOW is the big beanraising in most instances probably one hundred center of China, a great deal miles away—so he awaits until a man H of money being made by the comes through with several teams of commission men each season. oxen or mules, at which time he sells At this time I will mention the pre- his produce at the price that the buyer dicament in which the Chinese farmer dictates. In most instances the price he finds himself when it comes to market- obtains is barely enough for him to little ing his crops, for it is indeed a regret- more than buy his requirements for the table circumstance that keeps him ensuing season. If he refuses the buyer's barely existing even though he has con- price he must await months before an- siderably more products that he and his other calls, and when he does get another family require for sustenance during the buyer the story is about the same. From winter. There are few roads in China; this one can see the hopelessness of the in fact, none as compared to our country. present situation in the interior, and as Virtually nothing but foot-paths are to the farmer is the basis and groundwork be found in an expanse of millions of of every nation, how can the nation ad- fertile acres. When the Chinaman is vance when the farmer cannot? China ready to market his crop, he has no needs railroads and wagon roads, and means of transportation and he cannot until she gets them there will he no carry sufficient produce to the market, advance beyond what we see at the treaty

265 266 THE MID-PACIFIC ports where white men are permitted to and is careful, there is no reason why a trade and exert a little influence on the trip through China should not be re- surface of the mass of four hundred and garded as the Arabian Nights' entertain- fifty millions of humanity. ment of one's career. China is rich in tillable, producing Taking the little narrow-gauge rail- soils, in minerals, in coal, gold, iron, and, roads of China, we wend our way to the in fact, everything that would tend to coast to take the steamer to Japan where make the future of a country glorious, we find the Land of Cherry Blossoms but the soil cannot be tilled, the minerals gaily bedecked in springtime floral cannot be mined, the veil of superstition beauties, and we are soon in the city of around China cannot be lifted, until they Kobe again. have railroads and development, and that From here we take the railroad requires money, and American money through the interior, and after passing can find its most profitable market there through thousands of acres of rice fields, if it goes in large quantities and with tea gardens, fruit raising sections, and sufficient American ability and brains, diversified agricultural lands, we reach coupled with determination, behind it. the great manufacturing city of Japan— In Hankow the scenes are little dif- Osaka. Here we are surprised to find ferent from those in other Chinese cities, that we are the objects of persistent curi- though, of course, each locality has its osity. Few white people live here and own little peculiarities. In the main, there are visitors from nearby country however, conditions are the same, so we towns and villages who probably are shall pass on to the capital of China, seeing a white foreigner for the first Peking. time. Virgie especially is a great object In• Peking there are many wonderful of curiosity. Her blonde hair is a source things to occupy all of the time one can of wonder here, as all the Japanese reasonably spend, temples and piles stu- ladies have coal black hair. In the din- pendous, and relics from a by-gone age, ingroom of the Japanese hotel at which palaces of ancient Manchus and Man- we stopped the Japanese waiters were darins, ancient thrones garbed in tex- men and they would allow their lady tures that would have made Nero of friends a chance to "peek" at the white ancient Rome pale with envy, the tombs lady. Looking up, we would most al- of the Ming Dynasty, which are immor- ways find a whole group of them in- talized to memory by great carved figures tently gazing at us, only to scurry away of animals from the hardest of rock. Here swiftly when they saw that we knew it. the beggars are so numerous that one is There was extreme difficulty in taking glad to take one look and go. The Great pictures here, as the Japanese crowded Wall of China is near Peking and its best about us so closely in the streets that description is to say it is immense• If we could scarcely find our way along. If the top of the wall were smooth four we stopped to look in the store windows horses abreast could race. we were immediately surrounded with The streets in all of the Chinese cities a smiling sea of faces who gazed intently are well peopled with beggars and lepers watching each move and action that we are numerous. Truly, a trip through made. China is an unending series of surprises, Osaka, as has been stated, is a great and like everything else, it has its draw- manufacturing section and an important backs, but as a whole if one passes seaport as well. Great things are in through it in good health all of the way motion here and wonderful development THE MID-PACIFIC 267

A temple gate in China. is taking place on all sides. American have many of their ancient customs, at manufacturing methods are being the same time they are coming to the adopted, brought from more highly de- fore rapidly. At the present they have veloped parts of Japan, and factories are a compulsory educational system in effect operating with enormous working forces that prohibits any normal child from everywhere. In Japan, as well as in neglecting education up to a certain other parts of the Far East, much more point, when they become valuable and labor is used proportionately than in intelligent citizens. They have a lan- our country ; at least double the working guage that (as in the case of the Chi- forces being employed at a given task nese), is holding them back from prog- than we would utilize. They work ress, but the Japanese realize this and more slowly and patiently. Minor are taking steps to remedy it. Their things do not assume the importance in language consists principally of the their eyes that they do in the eyes of the ancient Chinese characters, but in addi- white races, and what can not be done tion they have adopted a forty-three -today can very well be put off until the sound language that. I liken to our sys- morrow. The , entire "Far East" is tem of stenography to a very great ex- known as the Manana Country, or Land tent. These forty-three sounds are of Tomorrow, but we must needs give written with a simpler sign method than the Japanese due credit for being by far the Chinese characters, the characters the most progressive race in the Orient. not being so complicated in their design. The Japanese are advanced now. Their By the use of these sound characters and country has arrived, and while they still the Chinese system, they work out their 268 THE MID-PACIFIC system of writing and speech much more the horse somewhat, but use them singly, simply than do the Chinese. At present, hitched to small wagons, and the horse the leading professors and statesmen are pulls his capacity load every time, you thinking very seriously of adopting the may be certain. Water carriers are seen English language as their own and rele- with their vessels on either end of a bam- gating the Japanese language to the for- boo pole, as in the Philippines, where the gotten era of Japan ; but the task is a Chinaman has also left his customs. colossal one and not easily solved. They After all is said, the Chinaman has an nevertheless are paving the way by originative brain and is a smart man, and teaching a very large percentage of the to the original ideas and methods that boys and girls of this period to speak and were figured out by him in the distant write English. past, the Far East owes much of its pres- The ancient Kingdom of China has ent state of civilization. All of the other left a very heavy impress on the customs races are surpassing the Chinese, how- and habits of Japan, and we see big ever, principally because the Chinaman loads being pulled by man-power here does not seem to care and is satisfied as well. They are adopting the use of with little here below.

The walls of Peking. 9 Kona s Great Pan-Pacific Fourth of July

By ALBERT S. BAKER, M. A., M. D., B.D. President of the Kona Improvement Club

Kona district and the island of Hawaii is the region that was best known to Captain Cook, the discoverer of the Hawaiian Islands. Here he was killed and here is the monument that marks the spot where he met his death. The white population is small, but the following article shows the influence the white man may wield and the cooperation he may secure from all races, when the combined work is for the Red Cross.

EVERAL months in advance the lined the yard. The Japanese entered Kona Improvement Club appointed heartily into the affair, though rather by S a general committee, with power to keeping separate features than by uniting appoint sub-committees, to arrange a in all divisions, as did all the other na- great community patriotic and educa- tionalities. Their school children parad- tional Fourth of July celebration, the ed early, and they had their own tea- proceeds to be for the Red Cross. These room and show, all beautifully decorated sub-committees subsequently proved to and a part of the general affair. The be on transportation, decoration, refresh- Japanese paper, "The Kona Echo," came ment, agriculture, fancy work, pageant, out with a special patriotic edition in amusement, sports, music, leis, and auc- both Japanese and English. The total tioneers, clerks, and cashiers. proceeds of the day, shared in by all Last year, on the 4th, large green Kona, were $2,002.50. arches spanned the road either side of the The chief entertainment of the day, Konawaena School grounds, and hand- for which all other things closed, was some flags and decorations were all the pageant "Hawaii," written and con- about. Different rooms were used for ducted by Harriet Austin Baker. This the sale of innumerable articles given to was staged in a three-acre pasture beau- help the Red Cross, as well as for dining tifully adapted to the presentation. Prob- rooms and amusements, while booths ably two thousand of the estimated three

269 270 THE MID-PACIFIC thousand people at the fair attended the sea, your words are new and strange to .pageant, some eight hundred of whom me, but our hearts are heavy with a very took part, about six hundred being school great burden, for our gods it seems im- children. Costumes, flags and banners possible to please. As you say, there is made a brilliant spectacle. The pageant, much strife among us, and if you can here printed in full for the first time (al- give us this new god and teach us a bet- though brief outlines were prepared for ter way, I heartily bid you welcome." the audience in three languages), fol- Church Leader—"I thank thee, and lows : feel sure that e'er long thou wilt see thy (Adapt this to your own land and try decision wise. Allow me also to bring it for the benefit of the Red Cross this to thy attention our co-worker, Educa- coming 4th of July.) tion, who can do much for thy people HAWAII. • with her schools. Wilt thou grant me Hawaii, as a young lady in holoku and the privilege of summoning Educa- leis comes forward from a group of trees, tion ?" followed by Hawaiians in primitive cos- Hawaii—"Yes, we will try all your tume. One old Hawaiian sings a mele new ways and test them fully, so sum- or chant. They group themselves on a mon Education and let me see what she grass-covered stone platform, Hawaii can do for us." sitting on a large rock and others stand- The Church Leader steps forward ing or kneeling. At the close of the beckons toward the lower left corner of mele the Church, represented by three the field where school children are wait- church leaders, Congregational, Catholic ing. They come forward with their and Episcopal, in order of their coming teachers, led by Education, who stands to Hawaii, enters. near Hawaii while the children group Church Leader—"We have come far on the side hill and sing "Hurrah for across the sea to thy fair Isles to bring the Schools of Hawaii." thee a message of truth and light. We Hawaii—"I am much pleased with beg of thee that we may remain and your appearance and my heart is eager to teach thy people to worship the One learn the many good things you have to Great God, who rules in love and kind- impart. You are welcome indeed." ness, and does not want the sacrifice of The Hawaiians retire one by one un- thy children to appease anger. Thy obtrusively and return clothed as they people are given to much strife, and we are in the present day. seek to teach them to dwell together in Hawaii (turning to Church Leader) love and peace, each respecting the rights —"I already see the wisdom of your of the other. We would teach them also ways. Will you not tell us of other to guard and care for the little children countries, of the things that have made tenderly, as each one is of much value in them strong and what we can do to the sight of our great God. In this book gain a place among them?" (holding up a Bible) you will find the Church Leader —"Government, with revelation of his love. The Cross (held law and justice and the rights of all pro- up by the Catholic priest) represents the tected, is very important in the growth sacrifice which his Son made for us all. of every country. I will gladly sum- The Prayer Book (held up by the Epis- mon Government at thy request." copal clergyman) shows us how we may Hawaii—"Do so at once, that we may talk with God as our Father." waste no more time." Hawaii—"Travelers from across the The Church Leader beckons and a THE MID-PACIFIC 271 group of judges and men with legal the great danger we are in, what shall books and papers comes forward. we do ?" Government (bowing)—"We are here At this moment an American flag is at your bidding to do what we can for run up at the top of the hill, and in you and your people." front of it appears America. The school children rise, salute the flag, and all sing trust you will teach my Hawaii—"I "Star Spangled Banner." people to work and plan together for the best good of all. You are certainly Government (stepping forward) - more than welcome." "Here is your answer. Behold Ameri- ca, so great and powerful; America, so Government—"We have brought you kind and generous ; America, so ready a gift which shall become the emblem of to receive all troubled and down-trodden your country and the pride of your peo- people and lift them up ; America, where ple." all are free and equal. Why not ask He presents a Hawaiian flag to Ha- America to adopt us and protect us from waii, which she unfurls. As she does so the enemies about ?" All the white peo- the school children sing "Hawaii Ponoi." ple say, "America." Industry, with a group of men repre- Hawaii (stands doubtful for a mo- senting different trades, comes forward. ment, as if thinking, and then turns to Industry—"We have come hoping to the Hawaiians)—"You see this beauti- win your favor and be permitted to re- ful mother and you hear what is said main in your beatitiful Islands. We of her. What say you, shall we seek can show you how to make your land her help ?" blossom and bear fruit to an extent you Hawaiian—"There seems no way for never dreamed of. We can help you to us to stand alone. Let us seek the help grow and produce much that ships from of America." All the Hawaiians say, across the ocean will come seeking. We ,,Ae will make your land so rich that it will Hawaii—"Let us go to her." become the envy of all the islands of She goes forward, followed by the Ha- the sea." waiians, who kneel before America. Hawaii —"Your proposition indeed sounds attractive and I am well pleased Hawaii—"Fair America, I am told of to try it. By all means stay and dwell your generosity and kindness, that you with us." protect the weak and foster the home- During the above conversation a Ha- less. My land is very small and we have waiian messenger arrives running. He no great army and navy to protect us. speaks to the Hawaiians and they be- Enemies are lurking about seeking to gin talking excitedly among themselves. take our country and we fear we may Hawaii—"Wht troubles you my chil- fall into the hands of someone who will dren ?" not be kind to us. Will you not adopt Hawaiian—"We hear that there are us and make us as your own?" enemies lurking about seeking to destroy America—"I see the danger. I will us and take our land. There have been adopt you and make you as one of my attempts before and now they seem more own children (spreading arms over determined and the danger greater than them), protecting and watching over you ever." as a true mother should." Hawaii (agitated and disturbed, turns Hawaii—"I thank you, fair mother, to the white people)—"You have heard and will try to repay your kindness by the report from the messenger and see being loyal and true." 272 THE MID-PACIFIC

Hawaii, with followers, returns to her with you. (Hawaii goes forward, accom- former position. There is rejoicing and panied by her flag-bearer). My daughter, satisfaction in the group. I have sad news. You have heard that America turns to the left and beckons, Germany has been waging war upon her and Army and Navy (represented by one neighbors in Europe for many months. man for each in uniform of officer) Her cruelties and outrages are past comes forward with military bearing. belief. After much thought and consid- They salute. eration it has become apparent that this America—"I have adopted Hawaii as must be a world war and that all peace- a child of my own to protect her from loving and righteous nations must join the enemies that are around. Hasten together to crush this terrible monster. away and place a guard about her and `We now enter this war because viola- fortify her harbors so that no one can tions of right have occurred which touch harm her." us to the quick and make life for our people impossible unless they are cor- Army and Navy salute again and re- rected a.nd the world secured against tire to the point where they came, from, their recurrence. What we demand in returning at once with a group of sol- this war, therefore, is nothing peculiar diers and a group of sailors, which they to ourselves. It is that the world be post about the Hawaii group. made fit and safe to live in; and par- Industry (coming forward and bowing ticularly that it be made safe for every before Hawaii)—"I have labored hard peace-loving nation, which, like our own, and accomplished somewhat, but I am wishes to live its own life and be as- very much handicapped by the lack of sured of justice and fair dealings by the laborers. Will you grant me the privi- other peoples of the world. To uphold lege of sending to other countries to this principle of justice to all peoples seek workmen to help us in the fields ? and nationalities and their right to live We can then plant larger areas of land on equal terms of liberty and safety with and increase your income greatly." one another, whether they be strong or Hawaii —"You may go and bring weak, the people of the United States these other peoples, but choose with care are ready to devote their lives, their hon- who you bring, that they may join with or, and everything that they possess.' uq in building up our country and not (Pres. Wilson). spread evil among us." "The Red Cross Society has already Industry bows and withdraws to side done much to relieve suffering in Eu- of the group and sends out messengers. rope but now our responsibility is still The Hawaiians play and sing. greater, and I urge you to band your The messengers return with groups of people together under the Cross, every- people in their national costumes and one doing his or her utmost to relieve with their flags. The Orientals and Fili- suffering and save life. There should be pinos come from the left and the Portu- no person in all our nation who has not guese from the right, in order of their done something, even though the service coming to Hawaii : first the Chinese, sec- be small, for this great cause. ond the Portuguese, third the Japanese, "The amount of money needed to car- fourth the Koreans, and fifth the Fili- ry on this great war will be tremendous, pinos. At first they stand in separate and I ask of you that you save your groups, but soon begin to mingle. earnings and lend to your Government America —"Hawaii, I would speak all that you can possibly spare, relnem- THE MID-PACIFIC 273 bering that later this will be returned to his part, whatever it may be, for this you with interest. great cause, even though it may mean "The years of war in Europe have sacrifice and sorrow." much lessened the. production of food Hawaii (to America)—"We will do and the submarine warfare and destruc- all we can. (Turning to her people.) Here tion of food-laden vessels has cut off the is our chance to show our loyalty and supply from other countries so that gratitude to America who has done so thousands of men, women and children much for us, and at the same time to are starving to death. Will you not show our belief in the great cause. make every effort to increase and save Away, away, my people, and show what your supply of food so that you may you can do." share with these stricken people ? The children sing "Over There" and "These are days when there should be other war songs, while all the other no waste of time, food or money in all people hurry away to return under dif- our land; for every moment, every ferent banners. Hawaii then stands be- crumb and every cent are needed to side America. Returning in procession, bring this war to a successful finish at come first Army and Navy; second the earliest possible date. Money Loans, with men and women• of "And hardest of all, I must ask for all races ; third Conservation, the com- your young men ; many to uphold the mittee in costume, men with garden Stars and Stripes across the sea, and tools ; and fourth Red Cross, with work- others to guard us at home. In short, ers of all nationalities, some in costume. I am asking that every individual in all After grouping about America and Ha- our great country may be ready to do waii, all sing "America."

.*1 PrPPIPPIrrPr "1M 274 THE MID—PACIFIC Circular Quay, the heart of Sydney harbor life.

Circular Quay, Sydney (and the river trips therefrom)

ROM Circular Quay by one of the they very seldom miss a trip on account ferry boats (that seem doll-like to of a gale. The greatest care, however, F the American) to Manly is the is exercised, and when the weather is best sea trip from Sydney without go- exceptionally severe the night service is ing outside the Heads. It is not abso- sometimes curtailed. The steamers de- lutely the longest, for the trip to Middle part from Wharf No. 3 at Circular Quay, Harbour and that to the Parramatta next to the Watson's Bay wharf. The River are longer ; but in going to Manly route, until Bradley's Head is reached, the steamers cross the entrance between is the same as for Watson's Bay, but North and South Heads, and whenever from here the Manly boat keeps a course there is a blow from the ocean there is more to the left, which gives a closer a good sea coming in, and the trip has view of the beautiful shores of Taylor's not the monotony of an all smooth water Bay, Chowder Head, Chowder Bay, and journey. The steamers of the Port Jack- George's Head. In Chowder Bay, where son Company are fine sea-worthy boats, hills are highest and the bush most capable of weathering any storm, and dense, we see the fine hotel and immense

275 276 THE MID-PACIFIC

dancing hall, and the swimming bath of summer weather. Boats can be hired for Clifton Gardens ; and beyond these, the rowing and fishing, and there are plenty dull red roofs of the station of the sub- of pleasant picnic spots on the shores, marine mining branch of the harbour particularly on the further (Dobroyd) defence. We are now leaving Watson's side of the water. When rowing, the Bay far to the right, George's Head be- weather must be watched, as a southerly ing directly opposite to that place, and blow brings up rough water quickly. we pass the "Sow and Pigs" rocks and There 'are good swimming baths. Be- the lightship, which lies northward of yond the latter is a charming promenade, the rocks, protecting the shipping enter- known as Commonwealth Parade. A ing the port. Obelisk Bay is opposite short way back on the left of the Corso the lightship on our left, and the next is an abrupt hilt, "Castle Hill," on which point is Middle Head, which faces the is "Dalley's Castle." Ivanho Park, just ocean through the opening between the beyond, is a quaintly pretty place, well Heads, and also divides the main chan- worth visiting, and in the grounds at- nel from Middle Harbour. It is just tached, are tennis courts, bowling greens, here for about a mile that the only and cricket grounds. Close by is Kanga- chance of rough water occurs, the steam- roo Hill, a rocky scarp, on which is a er crossing into North Harbour, on roughly carved stone kangaroo, a queer which Manly stands. First we pass, on conceit *hose object is not obvious. our left, the-entrance of Middle Harbour, A horse-car carries passengers from getting a view of Balmoral Beach, behind the pier to the Steyne 'Parade, on the Middle Head, and the Quarantine ocean front, and along for about a mile ground and buildings to the right on the to Curl-Curl Lagoon. A pleasant walk hill near North Head. The high barren by the sea to the right leads on to the headland on our left is Dobroyd Head cliffs, whence a fine view of the coastline (often miscalled Middle Head), and a to the north is obtained. Residents and mile more brings us to Manly Cove and visitors enjoy surf bathing along the the landing jetty. ocean beach in very large numbers at all The journey takes 35 to 4o minutes, hours throughout the summer, and many being a distance of about six miles. swimmers also indulge in the fascinating The most conspicuous and command- sport even during the winter. ing object as we reach Manly is the Car- As all roads used to lead to Rome, so dinal's Palace and Moore College (R.C.), all ferrys, in Australia, lead to Cir- occupying a fine position on a high hill cular Quay and from the quay the ex- overlooking the town, the harbour and cursions begin ; of the many bays reached the ocean. The township of Manly con- by ferry, Mosman is perhaps the most sists chiefly of one business street, the popular, it is but a 20 minute boat ride, Corso, running from the pier to the at a cost for two pence, or four American ocean front, a distance of a quarter of a cents, the boats plying regularly every mile ; but the residential suburb extends twenty minutes during the greater part on both sides a considerable distance and of the day. is of much greater extent than appears Passing out of Sydney Cove a course when viewed from any one point. There is shaped for the far side of the harbour, is altogether nearly a mile of sandy in the direction of the Heads. Crossing beach in Manly Cove, and between the the mouth of Neutral Bay and leaving sand and the Esplanade is a strip of re- Fort Denison on the right, we make for serve, where pine trees give shade in the Cremorne Point, passing close round its THE MID-PACIFIC 277 extremity and crossing Mosman's Bay are now in Middle Harbour, an extensive (formerly named Sirius Cove) to the branch of Sydney harbour, commencing Musgrave-street jetty on the opposite between Middle Head and Dobroyd and point. The boat recrosses to Cremorne, winding past the Spit for miles, with and then proceeds to the terminal stop- many branches to the back of North ping place at Mosman's Wharf. Cre- Sydney and away past Willoughby, to a morne was a great place of holiday resort point not far from Lindfield (on the in days gone by, and is still but little built North Shore railway line). upon. Much of the ground is open, and Middle Harbour is an ideal place for there are still many pleasant places to rowing and for boating picnics. For a picnic, more especially on the side away considerable distance it is fully half a from Mosman's Bay, upon Shell Cove, a mile wide, with a great depth of water. beautiful inlet from Neutral Bay. From The Sydney Ferries run a regular serv- Mosman's Wharf the tram runs up the ice of steamers from Circular Quay to hill for nearly a mile to Mosman town- Balmoral and the Spit. ship. The first half-mile is really pretty, Pearl Bay is just behind the Spit, and the deep gully to the left of the road be- here also is a beautifully situated pleasure ing still densely timbered in places, and a resort. Bantry Bay is at the head of considerable portion of it being reserved the main channel. The hills here are lofty as a public park. The trams run along and rugged, and clothed with close bush. the Military road to Spit-road Junction, Wild flowers and ferns are plentiful, and and on to North Sydney and Milson's a day may be spent delightfully, clamber- Point. Cars meet every steamer through- ing or idling as inclination may suggest, out the day. Mosman occupies a curi- in company, or in the utmost seclusion ously central position, and is the nearest that the heart could desire. point from which to gain access to a large The steamer excursions are pleasant number of Sydney's beautiful spots ; and enough ; but to see Middle Harbour and many of these are far less known than enjoy its beauties at their best we must they deserve to be. It need scarcely be hire a boat and pull in and out of the stated that these places are all accessible numerous coves, land where we like, and by rowing boat from Mosman's Bay. The chief boatshed is at Cremorne. Little linger when we will, afloat or ashore. It Sirius Cove is the first bay beyond. Mos- is not possible to thoroughly see Middle Harbour in a day, though most of its man, and there are many pleasant paths waters could be traversed hurriedly in a around it. Balmoral Beach is nearby and few hours. All the arms of the main chan- the long rollers come in with sufficient nel run in on the left. The first, Long force to keep up a murmur that may be Bay, extends as far as North Sydney, but heard in Mosman. There is an exten- at high water may be seen well from a sive public reserve here, and an agitation boat on the narrow stream below. On this has been made to secure a larger propor- arm is Folly Point, or Cammeray, a popu- tion of the beautiful bushland to the peo- lar picnic and boating resort. But see Mid- ple. Local amusement caterers provide dle Harbour for yourself whatever else for holiday parties through the summer, . you miss when you visit Sydney.. Next and at all seasons there is some amount come Sailor's Bay and Sugarloaf Bay, and of provision made at the various tea gar- last, the Main Arm. On the right hand dens and refreshment houses. A fairly side, between Sailor's Bay and Sugarloaf commodious swimming bath is much pa- Bay, lie the Powder Hulks, several old tronized in the warm weather. But we wooden vessels used for the storage of 278 THE MID-PACIFIC

explosives. The Main Arm may be trav- two miles leads to the boatshed; and the ersed for several miles. The channel has Mowbray road, which takes the same di- been deepened and staked, where there are rection about a mile farther south, also some extensive sand banks near Roseville joins some very picturesque tracks fol- Park. Near Willoughby, on the left side lowing the shores of Middle Harbour of the Main Arm, is a boatshed and this is one of the few spots at which it is about Sailor's and Sugarloaf Bays. easily approached by road. From the Wil- Strangers must be warned to beware of loughby tram terminus, or from Roseville sandflies, which are very plentiful on Railway Station, a pleasant walk of about Middle Harbour.

Ilt101111/10 i I ❑1• I III• Ill'

I 11111.11.11.1 11, A bit of the Olympics near Puget Sound.

With the Indians of the Olympics

By MARION RANDALL PARSONS

HE OLYMPIC RANGE occu- All night we traveled up Puget Sound pies a peninsula, about eighty and early morning found us breakfast- T miles wide, which separates Puget ing in Port Angeles, half way down the Sound from the Pacific, and rises abrupt- Straits of Juan de Fuca. ly from the ocean to an altitude of 8,20o A long climb and a week's tramping feet. Deep glacial canons cut the chain brought us to the Queets-Queniult Di- into a series of high, serrated ridges that vide, a high park region of heather slopes culminate near Mt. Olympus in several and erythronium beds, of hemlock groves interesting groups of precipitous peaks. and dodecatheon-starred strips of mea- Here living glaciers, some of them five dows. Later the divide narrowed to a miles long, are still at work carving and mere knife-edge. From one watershed beautifying the range. The canons form to the other and back again the trail the most practicable avenues of approach swung, on one side the deep canon of to the high mountains, for the forested the Queets and far away, beyond rolling areas are not only very steep and rug- forest lands, the white, vision-like crown ged, but, owing to the heavy rainfall, of Olympus ; on the other a green basin are clothed in an almost impenetrable where lay camp. jungle of rank vegetation. The Olympic One more day of forest trail brought National Monument, established by Presi- us to the outposts of civilization at Lake dent Roosevelt in 19o9, preserves the re- Queniult. Above the lake the river val- gion as one of the nation's playgrounds. ley was dotted with prosperous farms.

279 280 THE MID-PACIFIC

Our campfire circle that night held many that bespoke nothing but the aboriginal. strange faces—farming people assembled What a picture they made, these dark, to greet us, and Indian canoe-men with graceful people, and what a wonderful their squaws and children. Here we experience their strength and skill held our circus to the great delight of brought to us! Beautiful though Lake our brown-skinned visitors. Queniult was in the silvery morning mist. Thirty-five miles away, across Lake it was not until we were across it and Queniult and down where the Queniult the incongruous launch that towed us River met the Pacific, stood the Indian so far had cast our long line of canoes village, Tahola, whither we were to adrift that the true charm of the day journey in canoes. In our honor the In- began. The river below the lake flowed dians had hewn and blasted a way through Queniult Indian Reservation. through log jams around which portages Here and there on a beach stood a had hitherto been made, and for the first wickyup with salmon nets hung in the time in twelve years the whole river was sun, or on a low bluff a clearing held an open. Most of the twenty-three canoes Indian cabin. It was a day of• constant that awaited us were manned by two change, of incessant interest, of excite- paddlers, in bow and stern. In some a ment alternating with deep peace, unlike squaw occupied the bow, as skilful and any other day that our mountain exper- untiring as her husband. Some brought ience had brought us. We, who had their children along, and one canoe held known the rare delight of following many the entire family, including the dog and a little river to its source, now, borne cat. Their paddles were rather unusual along by the river, seemed' ourselves a in design, short-handled, and with a part of its ceaseless flow, travelers to- pointed blade. Among rapids or log gether, outbound into unknown seas. jams a pole was used. Our canoe was For some miles above its mouth the a cedar dugout, twenty-eight feet long, riven ran sluggish and deep. The sky paddled by one man and contaning seven grew overcast and the brilliant, sunlit grown people and a three-year-old In- river was toned to soft green, brown and dian boy. gray. At last Tahola Village came in Only two hundred and fifty members sight, a cluster of crudely painted houses remain of the Queniult tribe. Another facing unpaved, sandy streets. Though small tribe on the extreme northwestern we could see a white streak of breakers point of the peninsula, near Neah Bay, at the river's mouth and hear the roar alone of all the tribes of the Northwest, of surf, from our landing place the ocean speaks the Queniult language. The was hidden by low dunes of sand and Queniult people are an interesting tribe, gravel. Heaped upon them were great with unexpected depths of intellectuality piles of gray driftwood, whole trees, even beneath their characteristic Indian boast- four or five feet in diameter, flung up by, fulness. Even our canoe-man, an ac- storms and bleached to a lovely silver. knowledged buffoon, could seriously dis- Among these was our last camp. Our cuss conditions among his tribesmen, driftwood fire was built in the lee of a their longing to hold the reservation ghostly giant whose roots and massive lands in fee simple, their losing fight trunk not only gave welcome shelter against drink. In another moment his from the ocean winds, but formed a wonderfully resonant voice would sound wonderful rostrum for the last campfire over river and forest in a wild chant ceremonial. Approaching the Volcano of Savaii over the lava flow.

The Great Crater of Savaii and the District Around It

By OSCAR VOJNICH.

LEFT Famagalo, on the coast of horse here, I joined the natives on foot the Island of Savaii, for the vol- for the remainder of the journey. I cano, which had been active since For about three hours the trail passed 1905. It is about ten kilometers distant through a primeval forest destroyed by as the crow flies. the eruption of 1905, up the gradual Seven natives accompanied me, one as slope of a hillside covered with black an interpreter, the other six to carry the lava ashes playing in bluish tints. For tents, food and water. an hour more we walked along a pro- The road to the great crater leads for jecting ridge, in sight of a broad stream some distance along the shore, among of lava that had recently flowed from rows of coconut trees, then toward the the crater and of the smoke of the new interior—at first through plantations stream pouring into the sea. In another and finally by a path cut through a pri- half hour we were close to the crater's meval forest. Along the shore, old lay- edge. ers of lava have been succeeded by sand. The crater, which has been estimated On the plantations, besides coconut to stand 700 metres above the level of trees, many bread-fruit trees grow. The the sea, has been built by the streams of primeval forest is inhabited by scores of lava that, during the first eruption the Kikau (a kind of thrush) wild doves, poured forth like waterfalls. Only on and a small species of parrot. the southwestern side is the outer crater- About 11 a. m., after riding steadily wall covered with stones, cinders and for four hours, we halted for lunch, in ashes. the center of a burned down forest, on The crater is lowest on the southern the Olonono plantation. Leaving my side, lying so low in comparison to the

281 282 • THE MID-PACIFIC

Following the lava tunnel. Looking into the Crater

inner cavity that it wears the shape of a edge of the crater, a stream of hot air flattened cone. struck my face. The moderate south- From the foot of this cone, a thick west breeze; uniting forces with the ring of lava stretches down to the ex- speed of the hot air ascending from with- tirpated forest lying all around. This in, developed into a very strong wind, ring is narrowest on the southern side, which nearly carried me off my feet into and it was here, about 200 metres from the mass of liquid fire. The whirling the crater, that I pitched my tent on current of air would suck up pieces of the lava field. paper thrown into the crater and carry The "bombs" thrown out during the them far off in a northerly direction. eruptions of 1905 were collected in a From this vantage point, however, I radius of 100 to 120 metres around the had a magnificent view of the interior of crater. They ranged in size and weight the crater; the steep side walls display a from a man's fist to several hundreds of yellowish scorched hue, due to the de- pounds, and were for the most part like posits of sulphurous fumes. The south- huge pebbles, the large stones being en- ern, broken-in side of the crater, ends in closed by a crust of lava. These latter a kind of archway, and from the sides reminded me of the stones of similar two sharp ridges stretch down to the origin enclosed with a layer one or more depths. inches thick, in a state of decomposition, The bottom of the crater is covered which I had seen on the island of Ta- with a red, flaming lake. hiti. The smaller "bombs" without ex- The lava itself seems like a surface of ception, were considerably burned and boiling water lighted by red Roman cracked. candles. In hundreds of places the glow- I climbed up the crater cone, first on ing lake is boiling, bubbling, spouting the southwest side, but the choking, acid and hissing; the intensest activity seems fumes brought by the unfavorable breeze to be in the center, longitudinally; from soon forced me to leave this position and here in all directions waves of fire are take up another one on the southern breaking towards the side walls. side. But here, too, as I leaned over the The action of the lava waves has, in I'Il E MID-PACIFIC 283

some time I watched the mysterious, al- most supernatural night picture, and later on I was able to enjoy the whole crater district illumined by the fire of the lava, from the opening of my tent. So strong was the light reflected, even at this distance, that the smallest print could be read without effort. I and my native boys were not alone in the delight of experiencing this won- derful display of fire ; the feathered tribe was also well represented, and a num- ber of birds of prey, similar in appear- ance to kestrels, swooped down into the crater time and again searching for night insects, so close to the leaping flames that their wings must have been scorched. There were a number of flying-foxes in the air, but they kept away from the fire. On the way home a few days after- wards—I could not leave the lava lake

Through the dead forest. without spending days by its side—we traversed a part of the northwest lava one spot where the activity is very in- stream. Here, close to the edge of the tense, washed out a kind of cave in the side wall of the crater. The waves take a cinder-like material of a darkish hue (probably stones too) with them in their course ; but in the sunlight the dark spots disappear on the surface of fire. Before reaching the northern outlet which ends like a wedge, the molten matter all takes one direction, with its swift flow stirring up waves that beat like the rapids of a river, wedged in between rocks and finally the whole stream disappears in a whirlpool. This is the outlet of the stream of lava that pours into the sea. Even by sunlight; the crater displays its fires, but the surroundings gain in vividness when night falls. The whitish fumes that rise incessantly light up the whole neighborhood with the reflected gleam of the glowing lava, and the light effect is enhanced by the lowering clouds. Sitting on the brink of the crater, for More of the dead forest. 284 THE MID-PACIFIC forest, beside the liquid lava, stretches condition near the village of Fagamalo. a long stream of lumpy lava—corres- Both in point of color and in view of ponding to the Hawaiian as—which in its extremely molten character, the blu- spots, where the lava has cooled rapidly, is similar in appearance to the ice flows ish black lava may be compared to that of northern rivers. The lava poured into of Kilauea Volcano on the Island of the sea at a number of places in a liquid Hawaii.

Carrying the home before the approaching lava. The Russian priest blessing the bridge.

The Russian Priest of Yesterday

By ALEXANDER HUME FORD.

ITH Russian Cathedrals already which his congregation encourage. I give erected, or under construction, here the picture, as I saw it, of the W in China, Japan, Alaska, Cali- fathers of these "little fathers" of the fornia, and Hawaii, the Greek orthodox Russian people in Pacific lands. faith, via Siberia, is becoming one of the In Siberia and beyond the Russian Pan-Pacific religions. priest belongs in a class by himself. At present the Russian priest is little Looked down upon by the landed aristoc- known in Pacific lands, other than Siberia, racy, he is never invited to sit at the same but as Siberia becomes populated by table with the overlord. This show of European Russians, they will carry their contempt for the priest—as a man—has "little fathers" further on to other lands its influence upon the peasantry, to whom about the Great Ocean ; so notes that I the priestly robes are sacred, but the man once made in Russia and Japan, long be- himself is shunned by all and must eke out fore the revolution of either China, or the a pariah-like existence. Compelled to land of the Muscovites, may not be unin- marry before he can enter the priesthood, teresting, or out of place, in this magazine and condemned to imprisonment in some of the Pacific. monastery when his wife dies, he picks his In America, and in Hawaii,. the Rus- spouse from the peasant class, not so much sian priest is often American-born, with for congenial qualities, as healthy appear- progressive Yankee ideas and methods ance. The country priest receives a pit-

285 286 THE MID-PACIFIC tance from the government, a portion of sade with loyalty to the Tzar as its watch- the compulsory fees for confessions, word, finds most ardent followers, but the which must be made at least once annu- story of father Gapon's Sabbath day's ally, and a small piece of communal land march, and the Emperor's flight from his which he and his wife till. The Tzarina appealing children whom he sent his sol- takes an interest in the education of the diers to massacre spread to the farthest priest's daughters ; his sons are given a corner of simple Russia which adores Tol- smattering of churchly education by the stoi despite his unorthodoxy. Father government as they are destined, by law Capon is still orthodox, and a martyr. His and custom, to follow the same trade as words will go to the hearts of the people that of their father, and in Russia the he understands so well ; his cause is now priesthood is a trade, a lucky inheritance that of both priests and people, and the when crops are bad. Educated only above Tzar has fired upon his children. his townsmen, the Russian priest is often Much may be forgiven the blind the only person in a village able to read idolatry of ioo,000,000 illiterate peasants and write, therefore he wields a certain and workmen in Russia who worship influence in the formation of public sen- holy pictures and execrate their priests timent—presuming such a thing exists in when it is understood that beneath it all a Russian village—that in times of stress they are groping for something deeper may lift him above the absolute contempt than the absurd religious forms of the the peasants have for "the son of a priest." orthodox ritual and are at heart a most Few villages have a schoolmaster. pious people. Every Russian village has its priest for In Japan, where the people believe that whose support it is taxed. The priest who their Mikado is descended from God, sides with the people may become adored ; and the Japanese from Mikados, the reli- he who opposes them is execrated. Re- gion is so simple that a child grasps it at ceiving his pay from the government he once. In Russia, years must be given to is often careless of the sympathies of the study of the complicated ritual that those who all but spit upon him. What teaches many useless metaphors. Every he might do if it were to his interest to Russian child is taught the religious cere- win the love of his people, rather than the monies of the State Church, by the gov- approval of his superiors, is beyond calcu- ernment, millions being spent annually lation. As a man of semi-education to for this form of education, while every whom religious ceremonials are but too rouble spent under secular education is often only a trade, it is not surprising that begrudged. What wonder that the Rus- new political doctrines often find a fallow sians are the most ignorant and supersti- field in his shallow but well-meaning brain. tious people on the face of the globe ! If he is at all human, the sufferings of his The priest is necessary to the peasant brothers—and often that of his own fam- because he is the official keeper of the ily— can be made to come home to him Holy Ikons, without which, in the minds in a way that will cause him to look leni- of the people, nothing could be done in ently upon any agitation that has for its Russia. The babe in arms begins his ultimate object the reduction of taxes, education, being taken from the cradle which often amount to one-third of the and carried from picture to picture in season's crop. The role of "Holy Man" the village that he may kiss the hands, or leader in a popular cause is an irre- face, and feet on the fringe of tinsel and sistible one to the poor little Russian jewels that adorn the ikons. He learns priest when opportunity offers. A cru- to mechanically greet the ikon with rev- THE MID-PACIFIC 287 erential kiss long before he learns to that it has become a sacred cause, be- speak. Through life it is his one great yond the control of teachers of earthly devotion. In every room in Russia reforms and "isms ;" the people will, as hangs a holy picture, and in the banks a part of their religion, demand freedom, and official buildings, Jews and foreign- enlightenment, and a lifting of the bur- ers alike are compelled by law to un- dens of taxation. cover and cross themselves upon enter- Education, such as Japan knows, will ing. make the long dorthant brain of the Rus- The government does not scorn to hide sian Mujik awaken to wonderful per- behind the sanctity of the ikon whenever formances, that will astonish the world. it conveniently can. In the country, The new Russia is bidding adieu to when the seed is to be planted, Ivan calls priest-craft and ignorance ; the people for the "little father" of the village to demand popular education, and those carry the Holy Ikon before the group of who have secured education in the secu- planters, that the grain may be blessed. lar Sunday Schools, have no more ardent At harvest time the Ikon is again taken desire than to give their services as from the church and paraded from field teachers of those less fortunate than to field to ward off rain and prevent themselves. frost. In fact, the ikon is at once the The Russian boy is ignorant, dull, and national emblem and sacred charm cruel, because ignorance, cruelty and dull- against all evil to state and individual. ness have been his lot since birth. Con- It was -even seriously contemplated send- tact with the Japanese has taught thou- ing the Iberian Madonna from the holy sands of Russian soldiers, captured in the gate of the Kremlin to drive back the Russo-Japanese War, a lesson that has Japanese from Manchuria, and it is not sunk deep. Many, returning from their beyond the range of possibilities that if prisons, some of them having been taught this had been tried, it might have per- to read and write by their captors, or by formed such a miracle, for it is beyond Japanese school children who have conception that any Russian soldier would learned Russian, have strange stories to have turned back in battle while the most tell of the achievements of the little peo- sacred emblem of Russia was carried in ple of Japan. The secular Sunday the front rank. To the Russians, this Schools of Madame Alchevsky from now picture is even more sacred than was on will have the support of the Russian the heart of Robert Bruce to all true government, and the Russian boy is likely Scotsmen. to be as well educated as his contempora- When the real revolution in Russia— ries anywhere in the world, and "Holy which is bound to come—thrills the Russia" will give way to "Progressive hearts of all the people, it will be found Russia." •

288 THE MID - PACIFIC

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A bit of old Hawaii from the harbor.

Memories of Old Honolulu

By SERENO BISHOP.

_____Aironamsccon=ratara

HEN I returned to Honolulu as a driveway. These had not previous- in 1853, after an absence of ly been open. W thirteen years, I •was struck by "When I went away there were only the many changes. the Punchbowl road, Beretania. street, "Primarily civilization had advanced King street and Merchant street. This among the native Hawaiian people. They was the condition of the city in 1840. were then generally clothed, which they Passing of the Fort. were not when I went away. "Another great change was the dis- "The major portion of the residents of appearance of the old fort, from which Honolulu, however, still lived in thatched the street takes its name. This old fort houses. In fact, the town was almost en- stood where the Hackfield building now tirely composed of this kind of dwell- stands, the site being, of course, larger. ings. "The esplanade which has for so long "One of the greatest changes was in been the seat of much business was not the cutting through of the roads. Nuu- then in existence. The land.then ceased anu avenue had been opened its entire considerably above the point where the length and Fort street had been opened Customs House now stands.

289 290 THE MID-PACIFIC

"All Government business was then were substituted for the purpose of bring- conducted in the old building which now ing in ships. stands just waikiki of the post office. "There was a path along the reef which The various offices were there, and I re- bound the entrance, which is a natural member well seeing as clerks in the break in the outer reef, and along this finance office under Dr. Judd, Warren the men and oxen walked in pulling in a Goodale of Waialua plantation and L. A. ship, marching through the water. Thurston. Charles R. Bishop was then "Inside the harbor we found probably in the Customs House as collector. 100 whaling ships of from 300 to 500 City Limits in 1853. tons. These had come in with oil and were waiting to reship. Our big ship "The settled portion of the city was was soon surrounded by the whalers, two then substantially limited by the present . on each side, which began at once to Alapai and River streets and mauka at transfer into her the barrels of oil for School street. There was hardly any- shipment to New York. thing outside of those limits and the re- mainder was practically an open plain. Basis of Business in 1853. "Above Beretania street, on the slopes "The main business here then was the and beyond Alapai street, there was dealing with the whaling fleet, of which hardly a building of any nature what- there were not less than 250 ship, which ever. were in the habit of calling at Honolulu, "At that time there was a small board- Lahaina and Hilo, generally twice during ing school for the children of the mis- a year. Their summer months they spent sions at Punahou, under the direction of in the Okhotsk and Behring seas and in Father Dole. This little structure alone the Arctic ocean, taking the right whales intervened between the city and Moiliili, which then were abundant in those seas. where about the church there were a few In the winter they went south or to houses. These were all of the native Japan. This gave them a chance to make thatched kind and were inhabited by the the year very full, for they left their oil native people. here for reshipment and thus with re- "The plains remained open until within fitting were enabled to put in almost the twenty-five years, before there was any entire season at sea. building there of any description. Type of Architecture. "Another feature which was noticea- "There were very few structures of ble was the absence of a variety of fo- the American'or European styles of ar- liage. The almost universal algaroba chitecture or building. There were a tree was then only to be found in the few houses of wood and stone, the latter gardens and yards, as it was a new corn- predominating. There were several fair- er and had not begun to spread. There ly commodious and handsome buildings were few trees and the palms were not in occupied by .the well-to-do merchants. great variety at that time. Now there are scarcely any traces of the "We came down in the largest sailing old buildings which were then accounted ship of that day, the Sovereign of the so good. Seas, arriving here in January, 1853. "I can remember only one historical Ship Towing in 1853. building, that being the main room for- "The ship was towed into the harbor merly occupied by Hackfeld & Co., at by a long • line of native people who the rear of their new building. That grasped the hawser and walked along was at that time the Legislative and Ju- the reef. It was after this that oxen diciary building. THE MID-PACIFIC 291 "

"Kawaiahao church was then much in "At the time of which I am telling you the same condition as now. the wages of the workmen of the coun- "On the site of the lately destroyed try were very low. The rate of pay for Kaumakapili church there was a struc- a native worker was about 25 cents a day ture of adobe and thatch. on the average. There were no Chinese "The present Catholic Cathedral was in the country except a few traders. then in existence. But, as I said, the There were, too, a few Lascars scattered major portion of the dwellings of the about, but they were very few. They city were the thatched ones of the na- had come here as sailors, and had re- tive people. mained on the islands. There were also Natives in Majority. a few Cape Verde Portuguese, who had come here in whalers and liked the place. "The native population formed the "The native people at this time had de- great body of the population then seen clined to about 80,000, but were the most upon the streets. They were always conspicuous element of the population. moving about and at work. They bore "There were very few half-white peo- burdens upon the Hawaiian yoke, or ma- ple, as most of those who are so well maka, which with its load at both ends, known and remembered are of a later very much resembled the method of car- period. rying which is followed by the Chinese Roads in 1853. at the present time. "The men at work generally wore "The roads of the time were a great shirts but nothing more in the way of ap- improvement upon those of the earlier parel. days, but were still very inferior to what they should have been. The principal Transportation was Primitive. ones were a horse trail, which led to the "At that time there was scarcely a Pali, and Dr. Judd had extended and wheeled vehicle in the city. Those which reconstructed that down the other side were to be seen were ox carts, with oc- until there was a good horse trail con- casionally a hand cart. necting the city with the various dis- "Saddle horses were here in very small tricts on the Koolau side of the island. numbers. Thirteen years before when I "There was a very passable road down left home there were no saddle horses, Ewa and Waianae way. or practically none. When I returned I "Once while making the trip down to found that the few here were held very Waialua, to which there was a good high, from $75 to $150 each. But the horse trail, I discovered that even at that matter of horseback riding became such early day the cattle had made great in- a craze that within ten years the prices roads into the forests of ti plants which of horses had fallen to from $10 to $50 had theretofore clad the foothills and up- each. In fact, in 1860 one could get a land pasturages, even to the highest very fair riding horse for from $10 to tracts. $15. The Waikiki Road. Sugar and Beef scarce—Wages Low. `There was probably a horse trail to "At the time of which I speak there Waikiki, but there were only a few were no large plantations or ranches. houses of the native dwellers there. The cattle were just beginning to multi- "The natives took to horseback riding ply upon Oahu, and beef was generally with great facility and it is true that as obtainable where ten years before it had the horses became cheap and everyone been very scarce indeed. had his horse, the people gave up surf 292 THE MID-PACIFIC riding, as though their idea was to have which stands still at the rear of the rapid progress and they abandoned the church. older method for the newer one. The Reason for Differences. sport of surf riding was even disappear- "Perhaps the real reason for the differ- ing when I returned, though some of the ences which were then so startling were outlying islands had a great deal of it. that the missionaries were engaged in en- Anti-Missionaries. deavoring to reform the deeply degraded "The foreign community was when I morals of the Hawaiians, while the mem- returned much as it had been when last bers of the other portion of the commu- I was here. There were the two elements nity were by no means seeking such an —the missionary families and the white end. This created the greatest friction men who were engaged in business. and there were constant clashes between There was still a great deal of feeling the two classes, but the presence in both between the two elements, but it was of good women made it possible for time abating, and finally almost entirely passed effectively to abate this friction. away. "When we returned we often saw the "There were a few of the older mis- two young princes, afterward Kameha- sionary families living here, making meha IV and Kamehameha V, on the their headquarters about the Kawaiahao street. They were dressed with care and church settlement, but once a year there carried themselves with great dignity. was always a gathering here for the con- The old missionaries had by no means vocation in May, when the missionaries lost their influence, and were still as a met in the old Kawaiahao school house, body full of activity." Tortilas, the Latin-American bean food.

South America's Food Power By WILLIAM A. REID, Pan American Union Staff.

ANY an acre of fruitless land six months later to hear in Chile, Peru, in South America has become and Bolivia the harrowing stories of the M productive within the last few loss of sons, brothers, and fathers on the years. The effect of war, devastation field of battle. and hunger in Europe was brought viv- Coincident with the stories of sorrow idly and piteously home to the South arose the question of goods and foods. Americans at a much earlier date than Many manufactured products that had has been the case in the United States. long been imported into South America' Why? Because at the outbreak of Eu- were curtailed •by the lack of shipping ropean hostilities every South American facilities, and the importer sought in country began to give its young men to vain to replenish his stock. Officials and the god of battle. England, France, citizens feared a shortage of food Italy, and the central powers all called products and encouraged the planting of their reservists and patriots to the home- larger acreage. In some cases an offi- land. It was the writer's privilege to see cial appeal stimulated production. For thousands of men reembark from Brazil, instance, President-elect Gomez of Ven- Uruguay, and Argentina—lands of their ezuela, called upon his countrymen pub- adoption—for European trenches, and licly and through the several State Gov- •

293 294 THE MID-PACIFIC

ernments for a more extensive cultiva- importations. Normally they have been tion of the soil. The latter officials buying large quantities of flour from the echoed the appeal and some of the gov- United States and elsewhere, but the ef- ernors went so far as to offer prizes to fects of war have caused them to take the farmer who produced the largest inventory of domestic resources. Chile quantities of corn, beans or rice. What recently placed one of the largest and is the result? Venezuela has already most modern flour mills at San Antonio. shipped to New York 80 tons of corn as In visiting this establishment, I • said to her first consignment of that product the manager : "Where will you obtain ever sent to the United States or to any the grain ? You require vast quantities." country. In addition to corn, many tons His answer was reassuring—Chile is to of Venezuelan beans have arrived in export more food products next year, New York and no doubt will soon be and still larger quantities in the future. placed upon the market. The growing The Province of Linares in central Chile of these two products in larger quanti- illustrates the point. The board of pub- ties, coupled with the universal demand, lic works of the nation recently approved appears to be having a stimulating influ- plans for a million dollar irrigation ence on Venezuelan agriculture in gen- canal, and in place of 21,000 hectares eral, and ere long additional supplies will (hectare equals about two and one-half probably be available. In sugar alone acres) sown to wheat in this one prov- the exports to the United States for the ince, as at present, the area will be large- first half of 1917 increased in value ly increased. $434,000 over the corresponding period Again, consider the frigid region of of 1916. But grain and sugar are not Magellan Territory. Meat-freezing all this Caribbean country is producing plants there have been returning 100 per more abundantly. The meat-packing cent dividends to stockholders for sev- plant at Puerto Cabello which resumed eral years. A new company is preparing operations a short time ago is to be en- to start operations at Ultima Esperanza larged to meet the growing needs. Con- (Last Hope) with a capital of $500,000 struction work is progressing and soon and with a sheep slaughtering capacity it is expected to have a capacity for of 500,000 per year. Naturally this en- slaughtering 500 cattle per day. terprise bespeaks still greater attention As cattle producing nations of the fu- to the sheep-raising industry which has ture as well as at present, authorities are long flourished in that far-away region linking Venezuela, Colombia, Bolivia of cold and snow. Meat and wheat, then, and Paraguay with Argentina, Brazil, are two foods that Chile is preparing to and Uruguay. And as evidences of these produce in larger quantities, for domes- facts it may be stated that six or more tic if not for foreign consumption. Chile great meat-packing corporations of the limited her export of wheat to 700,000 United States have transported at least a metric tons and beans to 150,000 tons, portion of their activities to the southern as a matter of food conservation. continent. Bolivia's railway construction work Chile, Peru and Bolivia cannot at pres- reaches to the Cochabamba region, ent make liberal contributions of food- thereby tapping a rich agricultural area stuffs to other countries. These nations that formerly had no modern communi- are, however, conserving and increasing cation with the populous part of the their supplies for home consumption, country. Agricultural products today thereby creating a tendency to smaller are shipped by rail directly to the capital THE MID-PACIFIC 295 city and other centers of trade. Scarcity quantities they do, nevertheless, provide of ships on the Pacific, high freight the soil ingredients that make larger rates, and restricted exports of the usual crops in other lands. Guano and nitrate flour from the United States have in- from the coast line of these two. nations, duced Bolivian planters to put forth as everyone knows, is aiding and mul- greater efforts—they have been shown tiplying the yield of food crops in widely that home markets exist for all kinds of . diversified regions of the world. The substitutes for wheat flour. The exten- greatest difficulty at present, however, sion of the railroad above mentioned and is the dearth of ships to transport such also the Yungas road, now being pushed materials, and perhaps no better illustra- northward from La Paz into the pro- tion of this deplorable fact can be found ductive valleys of that almost virgin re- than that of a Chilean man-of-war laden gion, makes additional rice and sugar- with nitrate steaming for North Amer- cane lands accessible as well as available ica—a recent occurrence. for agricultural exploitation. Bolivia The cacao (chocolate) bean is Ecua- has long imported sugar; about $1,000,- dor's principal food export, and advices 000 worth in a recent average year. But from Guayaquil say these beans have by reason of the railroad, new life is been "coming in abundantly." Ware- given to sugar-cane planting, especially houses are reported to have enormous in the Cochabamba region extending quantities in store, especially those at eastward toward Santa Cruz, and we find Colon, Panama. In September, a more today 15 steam-power mills, in addition or less average month, 6,954,256 pounds to various others operated by animal were exported from Ecuador, nearly power, grinding cane and producing 6,000,000 pounds coming, to the United sugar in larger and larger quantities. States. The high cost of ocean freight Rice, molasses, alcohol, etc., are a few of space, however, appears to be growing the other crops and products of eastern prohibitive. The rate per ton from Bolivia now receiving more attention by Guayaquil to New York has been $45, a reason of the increasing demand and figure possibly higher today. To Euro- higher prices. pean ports transportation presents still Peruvian planters have been so pleased a greater problem. The vessels recently with the high prices received for their placed in service between Guayaquil and cotton that some of them were turning San Francisco under the Norwegian flag from food crops to the more profitable may possibly cause some reduction in cotton growing. Officials of the Gov- freight rates on the Pacific and otherwise ernment, however, saw in the move a aid Ecuador's cacao market. The Gov. grave condition, and farmers were urged Forbes of this ?line recently delivered to grow greater quantities of foodstuffs 18,000 bags of cacao in San Francisco, —to plant more acres than in past years. while Ecuadorian exporters in contract- Naturally, we look upon Peru as a vast ing to supply 50 tons of potatoes a week storehouse of minerals; but in addition to Panama stimulated the growing of po- to supplying such products, the republic tatoes to a considerable degree. exports now more than $27,500,000 Looking at the food question in Co- worth of sugar, or double the value of lombia we find that the high price of that sold in previous years. This amount wheat flour, much of which has long reflects a larger acreage as well as higher been imported, is causing many people to prices received for the crop. consume larger quantities of other foods. If Peru and Chile cannot supply the A number of Colombian millers import world with food products in enormous wheat from the United States which now 296 THE MID-PACIFIC

costs delivered in Carribbean ports about of Santander, according to United States $4 per bushel ; this brings the price of Consul Guyant, 1,500 acres are sowed in flour to $30 per barrel—prohibitive rates the castor bean and several hundred for the poorer inhabitants. The latter acres in the same crop in the region of have been growing larger quantities of Barranquilla, etc. various species of potato, one of which is The price of the bean in Colombian locally called name. Bananas also are seaports is about 4 cents per pound, and more largely consumed locally and many this rate returns a handsome profit to of these come from supplies which are the planter, many of whom use children not suited to foreign shipment. In 1916 to gather the ripe pods. Shipments of Colombia exported to the United States the bean to New York proved very sale- $1,667,213 worth of bananas, a consid- able, and it seems certain that ere long erable increase from the $863,483 value much larger ' supplies will be available. of the previous year. Sugar exporta- Castor-oil meal is also one of the newer tion from Colombia also nearly doubled products of this bean. Coconuts in Co- in the same period. lombia, as in other tropical lands, are At present about 25,000 head of beef now being gathered much more seriously cattle are needed annually in the Pana- than in past years, and as a substitute for ma Canal Zone. Colombia is a weekly creamery butter, we have the product— contributor to this army of livestock. and coconut butter—now on the market in the republic's bounty paid to stockmen our cities and destined to come in larger for each• importation of a thoroughbred quantities. animal no doubt will be far-reaching in What are we to understand from these improving herds of cattle, sheep and glances at food prospects of a vast con- swine all over the livestock regions of tinent? Briefly, we see that the subject that country. A recent stock census of food conservation is taking deep root; shows the .republic to have 3,034,504 that newer and possibly less relished va- cattle, 711,482 hogs, 163,830 goats, be- rieties of edibles are coming upon local sides horses, mules, etc. markets ; that agriculture and stockrais- We feel keenly the rising values of ing are more active generally, and in fats and greases, .which are soaring to some instances encouraged by leading prohibitive prices. Colombia furnishes banking interests in producing larger an illustrative case, which may be du- quantities of products. In numerous plicated in other parts of South America, cases, as we have seen, these larger pro- where the castor-oil plant is coming to ductions have already reached foreign the rescue, in a small if not in a large shores and aided in feeding the multi- degree. A Colombian chemist found tudes. It may be true that some of the that oil could be produced locally and countries of South America have cheaply from the bean, and thereby serve strained a point and permitted a rather domestic needs in lieu of the imported too generous exportation of foodstuffs article. As a result of this use of a plant from supplies needed at home ; but if growing wild and long considered of lit- such is the case the same fact seems tle value, there are now large areas un- likely to react and stimulate the farmer der bean cultivation. In the Department to plant larger areas. Advertising Section

•INI.M.■■••••■•■■■•••••••■•••••■•...... m.N..•■■•••■■■••■■M The Pacific Mail Steamship Co.

The S.S. "Colombia" en route.

The Pacific Mail Steamship Company Some of the features for the safety and has not only resumed its service between pleasure of passengers on these Pacific San Francisco via Honolulu to Japan, Ocean greyhounds are : wireless telegra- China and the Philippines, but it is carry- phy and daily newspapers, watertight ing the American flag by its direct steam- bulkheads, double bottoms, bilge keels, ers to India and to the Latin American oil burners (no smoke or dirt), single Coast as far South as Panama, with con- rooms and rooms with two beds, two nections beyond, all along the Pacific washstands in each room, as well as large South American coast and with Europe. clothes' lockers, electric fans and electric The Pacific Mail Steamship Company reading lights for each bed, spacious operates indeed the one "American Round decks, swimming tank, Filipino band, ve- the Pacific Line" of comfortable and mod- randa cafe, beautiful dining saloons, ern steamers. large and small tables, and every comfort The vessels of the Pacific Mail Steam- of modern ocean travel with the best ship Company are all splendid passenger cuisine on the Pacific. ships of 14,000 tons American registry. ' The general offices of the Pacific Mail The new sister ships, "Colombia," "Ecua- Steamship Company are at 508 Califor- dor," and "Venezuela" constitute the nia Street, San Francisco, California, service to Honolulu, Yokohama, Kobe, with branch offices at Honolulu, Hong- Shanghai, Manila and Hongkong. kong, Yokohama, Kobe, Shanghai. and The "Colusa" and the "Santa Cruz" are Manila while agencies and sub-agencies the pioneers in the service to Singapore, exist in almost every Pacific port, in all Calcutta and Colombo via Manila. of the large cities of America and the A fleet of steamers maintains the service rest of the world. between San Francisco, Mexico, Central George J. Baldwin, President of the American ports and Panama. Pacific Mail Steamship Company is lo- For the Tourists or Shipper to almost cated at 120 Broadway, New York City, any part of the Pacific, the new American N. Y. ; Daulton Mann, Assistant Gen- vessels of the rejuvenated Pacific Mail eral Manager; W. A. Young, Jr., Steamship Company offer inducements General Passenger Agent, at 508 Califor- that are not being overlooked. nia Street, San Francisco, California. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC

The T. K. K. Trips to Hawaii and the Orient I

Welcoming a T. K. K. Liner.

The United States government now permits the palatial liners of the T. K. K. (Toyo Kisen Kaisha) to carry passengers back and forth between San Francisco and Hawaii. The Honolulu Chamber of Commerce has raised a special fund of $50,000 to be used immediately in advertising Hawaii's attractions and allurements for those who need rest or who have earned recreation. The T. K. K. will occupy as its Hono- lulu office the rooms vacated for it by the Hawaii Promotion Committee, in the Alexander Young Building on Bishop Street. The head office is in Tokyo and the San Francisco office at 625 Market Street.

The two funnels of the T. K. K. Liner dominate this shipping scene. THE MID-PACIFIC 3

The Foreign Trade Club of San Francisco W. H. Haigue, Secretary, (Monadnock Building, San Francisco)

The Foreign Seattle. Across-the-seas correspondents Trade Club of invited to write San Francisco office. S a n Francisco Banking and foreign trade go hand-in- meets every hand. San Francisco boasts of some of Wednesday ev- the most interesting and historic banks ening in the lec- in. America. The Wells-Fargo National ture hall of the Bank is perhaps the best known of these. Merchants Ex- It was founded in 1852, a pioneer of the change Building, gold days, with a present capital and sur- to listen to some plus of $1 i,000,000 and assets of $75,- disting uished 000,000. It has been forembst in building over-seas speak- up the financial and business prestige of er, and to study San Francisco, and has spread facilities the ethics of for- for trade across the Pacific. Deposits of eign export. Vis- visitors and correspondence are invited, itors to San exchange is issued, collections and pay- Francisco are in- ments effected, and safe deposits boxes vited to the lec- provided. tures. The Pacific American Trading Com- Thomas W. pany—Frank H. Stone, manager—offices Simmons & Co., in the Santa Marina Bldg., 112 Market Orient Building with head offices Street, San Francisco, and representa- on the ground tives in all countries. C. I. F. quotations floor at 240 Cali- given and samples sent whenever prac- fornia Street, is represented in the For- tical, free. The motto of this house is eign Trade Club by its vice-president, "Service." F. S. Douglas. This very important firm Mr. H. W. Friesleben, of the Foreign of International Merchants has branch Department of the Pacific Sanitary houses in New York, Seattle, and Hong- Manufacturing Company — 67, New kong. Specializing as it does in Oriental Montgomery Street, San Francisco—is products, it has its own representatives the firm representative in the Foreign in every large city from Yokohama, Trade Club. His firm has installed "Pa- Japan, to Sourabaya, Java, and Bambok cific" plumbing in many of the public in Burmah. All codes used ; cable ad- schools of San Francisco and California, dress, "Simmons, San Francisco." and has trade relations with every part The President of the Foreign Trade of the Pacific. Club is William H. Hammer, of the Ship- The home office of the Sperry Flour ping and Commission firm of Hammer Company is in the Orient Building, 332 and Company, 310 Clay Street (Phone Pine Street, San Francisco, the head- Sutter 54). Visitors to the Commercial quarters of Pan-Pacific trade. A Sperry Museum in the Monadnock Build- product, whether it be flour or cereal, ing may reach this and other Foreign will earn appreciation around the Paci- Trade Club firms by phone, free service fic, because everything that men, method, being supplied. and modern machinery can do to make it Mr. Ben C. Daily, of the Foreign Trade worthy of favor has been done before Club, is the representative in San Fran- it appears on the grocer's shelves. cisco of the Overseas Shipping Company, The members of the Associated Manu- his office being in the Merchants Ex- facturers' Importing Company, 883 change Building (Phone Sutter 4459). Market Street, have been established in This concern reserves space on Pacific business in San Francisco since 1857. vessels for its customers at lowest rates, They specialize in hardware, tools and is efficient, and handles all details in con- metals. Imports and exports of all raw nection with applications for Govern- or manufactured products that amount to a large volume undertaken. This ment Export licenses. Other offices at company has large resources, good people 327 La Salle Street, Chicago ; 17 Battery to act as American Buying Agents for Place. New York ; L. C. Smith Bldg., Overseas Merchants. 4 THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu from the Trolley Car I

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the H onolulu Rapid Transit & Land Company.

You may take the electric tram as you lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki step off the steamer in Honolulu, and on the heights behind Diamond Head. for five cents ride for hours—if you wish which is now a great fortress ; in fact. to take transfers—to almost every part the entire day may be spent with profit on of this beautiful city and its suburbs. the car lines. At Waikiki often may be There appeared in the Mid-Pacific seen from the cars men and boys disport- Magazine for January, 1915, an article ing themselves on their surfboards, as telling of a hundred sights to be seen they come in standing before the waves from the street cars. on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King Street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 de- from which may be seen the cane lands grees, nor does it rise above 85 degrees, and rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor and there is always a gentle trade wind in the distance. Before reaching Fort stirring. Shafter is the Bishop Museum, having When Honolulu was ready for her the most remarkable Polynesian collec- electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid tion in the world. At the other end of Transit & Land Company completed the the line is Kapiolani Park, a beautiful most perfect system of its kind in the tropical garden, in which is located the world, and it is always a delight to ride famous aquarium of Hawaiian fish (con- smoothly over its lines. ducted by this company) rivaled only by the aquarium at Naples. It is but twenty minutes by car to Wai- Transfers are given to branch lines kiki beach and but five minutes longer, by penetrating several of the wonderfully the same car, to the wonderful aquarium beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- in Kapiolani Park. THE MID-PACIFIC 5

-•••■■•■■■••••M■■••••■•■•■••■•■•■• The Island of Maui

PULL KtiA HONOLtilll NORMAL SCHOOL SCALE OE EIILL.S'

PR[PARED AND COPYkiLN1tD WILE15 I. POPE .

4ALA A

Area vr, 5.-rot :.:.1 t 1,,

111-14,,,t .Ekvatl, , rvc.t . airx r o,exzi c

Map by courtesy of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd.

The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., ance Co., The Home Insurance Co. of (known by everyone as "A. & B."), is New York, The New Zealand Insurance looked upon as one of the most progres- Co., General A. F. & L. Assurance Cor- sive American corporations in Hawaii. poration, Switzerland Marine Insurance Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents Co., Ltd. for the largest sugar plantation of the The officers of this large and progres- Hawaiian Islands and second largest in sive firm, all of whom are staunch sup- the world, namely, the Hawaiian Com- porters of the Pan-Pacific and other mercial & Sugar Company at Puunene, movements which are for the good of Ha- Maui. They are also agents for many waii, are as follows : other plantations and concerns of the W. M. Alexander, President ; H. A. Islands, among which are the Haiku Baldwin, First Vice-President; J. Water- Sugar Company, Paia Plantataion, Maui house, Second Vice-President and Man- Agricultural Company, Hawaiian Sugar ager ; W. 0. Smith, Third Vice Pres- Company, McBryde Sugar Company ident; John Guild, Secretary; C. R. Hem- Ltd., Kahului Railroad Company, Kauai enway, Treasurer; F. F. Baldwin, Direc- Railroad Company, Ltd., and Honolua tor; C. H. Atherton, Director ; W. R. Ranch. Castle, Director. This firm ships a larger proportion of Besides the home office in the Stangen- the total sugar crop of the Hawaiian wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & Islands than any other agency. Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices In addition to their extensive sugar in Seattle, in the Melhorn Building; in .plantations, they are also agents for the New York at 82 Wall Street, and in the following well-known and strong insur- ance companies : Springfield Fire & Ma- Alaska Commercial Building, San Fran- rine Ins. Co., American Central Insur- iscd. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Island of Kauai

M W TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Navigation Company, maintaining the premier ferry service between Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kisen Kaisha, main- taining palatial ocean greyhound service between San Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, have their Hawaiian agen- cies with Castle & Cooke, Ltd. This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- lulu, occupies a spacious building at the corner of Fort and Merchants streets, Honolulu. The ground floor is used as local passenger and freight offices of the Toyo Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Navigation Company. The adjoining offices are used by the firm for their business as sugar factors and insurance agents ; Phone 1251. cali`ort Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for of many of the plantations throughout Ha- Fl /slvr ds waii, and here may be secured much varied information. Here also the tour- ist may secure in the folder racks, book- lets and pamphlets descriptive of almost Maps by courtesy of Castle & Cooke, Ltd. every part of the great ocean.

HoNoLuLuNOLLHALsuLopi

levotion 5Z5o Feet en H0,1014414 98 M■ la$ PREPARED AtID Population aver RI,,tott Pet.eitt. 1016 large SqurPlantanoo, W)LLI Su cu. Crop for 19(37, 740e; rots THE MID-PACIFIC 7

FERTILIZING THE SOIL. Millions of dollars are spent in Hawaii fertilizing the cane and pineapple fields. The Pacific Guano and Fertilizer Com- pany, with extensive works and warehouses in Honolulu, imports from every part of the Globe the many ship loads of ammonia, nitrates, potash, sulphur and guano that go to make the special fertilizers needed for the varied soils and conditions of the islands. Its chemists test the soils and then give the recipe for the particular blend of fertilizer that is needed. This great industry is one of the results of successful sugar planting in Hawaii, and without fertilizing, sugar growing in the Hawaiian Islands could not be successful. This company began operations in Mid- way Islands years ago, finally exhausting its guano beds, but securing others. 8 THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu home of the American Factors Co., Ltd. (Exterior)

Interior. The Home Building in Honolulu of the American Factors Co., Ltd. Plantation Agents and Wholesale Merchants THE MID-PACIFIC 9

Electric Lighting in Honolulu

The general offices on King Street.

THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC CO.

N HONOLULU electricity costs and fifty horse power to the Federal eight cents per kilowatt, for the Wireless Station, fifteen miles distant, I first two kilowatts per month, per besides current for lighting all private lamp, and six cents thereafter. From residences in Honolulu, as well as for the Hawaiian Electric Company plant, operating its own extensive ice plant. power is furnished to the pineapple can- A line has also been built to furnish neries (the largest canneries in the light and power to the great army post world) to the extent of seven hundred of Schofield Barracks, twenty miles dis- horse power, with another two hundred tant from Honolulu.

The power house and ice plant. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Trust Company in Hawaii

The Henry Waterhouse Trust Co., Its Real Estate Departmeht, which is Ltd., Is the leading Trust Company in in constant touch with the Real Estate the Hawaiian Islands, located on the market, sells and rents property in any principal corner of the business section part of the Islands and if desired attends of Honolulu.' to the collection of rents and the upkeep By special legislation it is empowered of properties in a businesslike manner. to act in every fiduciary capacity and Its Insurance Department attends to handles trust funds running into the mil- the placing of insurance against the haz- lions yearly. ard of fire in the leading mainland fire It maintains special departments to companies and seeing that its clients are handle every branch of a trust business, fully protected in this respect. having at the head of each department a The Bonding and Casualty Department man specially qualified for that particular furnishes Surety Bonds and Casualty In- work, acting directly under the personal surance of every nature with the leading supervision of the executives. Its Stock Eastern Bonding Companies. and Bond Department attends to the pur- It maintains Safe Deposit Vaults for chase and sale of all securities, and its the protection of valuables, which are years of experience in this work specially rented at a very moderate figure, and qualifies it to render assistance to its negotiates loans in a most satisfactory clients in the selection of investments. manner.

The Trent Trust Company, though a to handle the work of Manager of Es- comparatively young organization, is tates, Executor, Fiduciary Agent, and one of the most popular financial in- Agent for Non-Residents. It has the stitutions in the Islands. Organized in following departments : Trusts, Invest- 1907, it has already doubled its capi- ments, Real Estate, Rents, Insurance, talization to $100,000. According to and Safe Deposit. the last statement its capital undivided The Trent Trust's offices are located surplus amounted to $188,788.51, and on the ground floor of 921 Fort Street, its gross assets to $538,067.55. the principal business thoroughfare of The company is efficiently organized Honolulu. THE MID-PACIFIC 11

The Catton, Neill Building, Honolulu. Al so the home of the General Electric Co. in Hawaii.

Honolulu is known around the world Half a century is an age in the life of for the manufacture of sugar mill ma- Honolulu. The first frame building is not one hundred years old, and the first chinery. Much of this is made by Cat- hardware store, that of E. 0. Hall & ton, Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who Son, Ltd., was not founded until the build and erect sugar mill machinery. The year 185o, but since then, on the com- works are on South street, Honolulu, manding corner of Fort and King streets, while the offices and salesrooms are lo- it has remained the premier hardware cated in a new concrete building on Ala- concern in Hawaii. The entire three- kea and Queen streets, erected recently story building is taken up with extensive for this purpose. Here are seen the dis- displays of every kind of hardware. One plays of the General Electric Co., of which floor, however, is given over to crockery Catton, Neill & Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian and kitchen utensils, while in the base- agents, as well as for the leading gas en- ment even a ship might be fitted out with gines, water wheels, steam plows, pumps, its hardware, cordage, and roping needs. condensers and tools manufactured in the This company is also agent for the Sher- United States. This is one of the oldest win-Williams house paints and represents engineering firms in Hawaii. many mainland hardware firms.

E. O. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King Streets. I2 THE MID-PACIFIC

HOME FERTILIZING. their fertilizers are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Fertilizer Company. The The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company chemists analyze the soil and suggest the stores its fertilizers in the largest con- formulas. For the small planter this crete warehouse west of the Rockies. The company makes special fertilizers, and works of this company cover several acres the gardens of Honolulu are kept beauti- ful by the use of a special lawn fertilizer near Honolulu. The ingredients are pur- made by this company. Fertilizing alone chased in shipload lots, and the formulas has made Hawaii the garden of the Pa- adopted for the different plantations for cific. THE WORLD'S FIRST TELEPHONE EXCHANGE The Mutual Telephone Company of So rapid was the increase of subscribers Honolulu is the outgrowth of the first after the Automatic installation that it house to house telephone system in the became necessary to build and equip two world, installed in Honolulu in the late new exchanges, one in Kaimuki and the seventies. This company has lately led other at Kalihi. Moreover the wireless the world in telephone improvements, service to the other islands being under was the first to install a commercial control of the Mutual Telephone Com- wireless system of telegraphy (between pany, as well as the telephone systems the Hawaiian Islands), and is preparing of the islands of Maui and Hawaii, it has to link tip its exchanges on the different become possible to send and receive mes- islands of the group by wireless tele- sages between the islands by phone, and phony, as soon as this mode of communi- even cable messages are usually- sent out cation is perfected. over the phone before the official mes- The present Mutual Telephone Com- sage is delivered. pany was incorporated in 1883 and used Australia sent a commission to the old manual switchboard until 1909, Hawaii to study and report on the Hon- when it was reorganized and the Auto- olulu Automatic exchange, and has since matic telephone system installed, which adopted the Automatic. At present the has proved the most satisfactory of any Inter-Island Wireless system is under lease to the Federal Government, but in the world, making it possible in cos- the Mutual Telephone Company is going mopolitan Honolulu for the many men of ahead with its improvements of service many Pacific races to call each other on each of the three larger islands : without having to strive with "Central." Oahu, Maui and Hawaii. THE MID-PACIFIC 13

Banking in Honolulu

The First National Bank of Hawaii at the corner of Fort and King streets, Hono- lulu. This bank is the de- pository in Hawaii of the United States Government.

The Bank of Hawaii has a capital, surplus and undivided profits amounting to nearly a million and a half, or more than the total of any other bank in the Hawaiian Islands. It has its own magnificent building at the busiest busi- ness corner of Honolulu, Merchant and Fort streets ; has a savings department and was organized in 1897. The Bank of Honolulu, Ltd., located on Fort street, is an old established financial institution. It draws on the principal parts of the world, issues ca- ner of Merchant and Bethel streets, op- ble transfers, and transacts a general posite the postoffice and Bishop & Co. banking business. It is the most up-to-date fireproof build- The Banking House of Bishop & Co. ing in Hawaii, the interior being finished was established August 17, 1858, and has in bronze marble. occupied its premises on the corner of The Guardian Trust Company, Ltd., Merchant and Kaahunanu streets since is the most recently incorporated Trust 1877. The operations of this bank began Company in Honolulu. Its stockholders with the encouragement of the whaling are closely identified with the largest business, then the leading industry of the business interests in the Territory. Its islands, and the institution has ever been directors and officers are men of ability, closely identified with the industrial and integrity and high standing in the com- commercial progress of the Islands. The munity. The Company was incorporated partners in the firm consist of Mr. S. M. in June of 1911 with a capital of $100,000 Damon, Mr. Alien W. T. Bottomley and fully paid. Its rapid growth necessitated and J. L. Cockburn. On Dec. 31, 1917, doubling this capital. On June 3o, 1917, the deposits of this bank amounted to the capital of the Company was $200,000 ; $12,282,428.73. surplus $10,000, and undivided profits The Yokohama Specie Bank, a branch $53,306.75. It conducts a trust company of the famous Japanese institution, with business in all its various lines with a subscribed capital of $24,000.000 and a offices in the Stangenwald Building, Mer- paid-up capital of $15,000,000, occupies chant Street, adjoining the Bank of Ha- its magnificent new building at the cor- waii. 14 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma- terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today the firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity needed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guaran: tees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and completed on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii ; so it is that one

IMPREIntt firm undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hard- ware department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment.

THE MID-PACIFIC 15 I The Tourist's Hawaii

The Alexander Young Hotel (under same management as Moana and Seaside Hotels).

The Von Hamm-Young Co., Importers, Optical Institute is the most complete Machinery Merchants, and leading auto- place of its kind in Hawaii. The glasses mobile dealers, have their offices and store of visitors are quickly repaired, and those in the Alexander Young Building, at the of residents kept in order. corner of King and Bishop streets, and The Pacific Engineering Company, their magnificent automobile salesroom Ltd., with spacious quarters in the Yoko- and garage just in the rear, facing on hama Specie Bank Building, Honolulu, Alakea Street. Here one may find almost are engineers and constructors of build- anything. Phone No. 4901. ings of every kind, from the smallest pri- The Thompson Optical Institute is vate residences to the large and imposing just what its name implies, and occupy- business blocks. Being made up of some ing a location on Hotel Street opposite of the most prominent men in the Islands Bishop Park and the Young Hotel, it it is not surprising that it secures some is convenient to all. Here the eye is of the large and important contracts. tested and here all kinds of lenses are The Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu ground and repaired, for the Thompson was the work of this firm.

Honolulu's big department store, W. W. Dimond & Co., on King St. Phone 4937. 16 THE MID-PACIFIC

Round About Honolulu

Chambers Drug Store, Fort and King Street, stands at the head for flavor and Streets, is the actual center of life and keeping quality, and is guaranteed. It is activity in Honolulu. Here at the inter- here you also get the tender meats • and fresh vegetables of which an abundant section of the tram lines, the shoppers, supply is always on hand. Heilbron & business men, and tourists await their Louis, proprietors, have built up a won- cars, chatting at the open soda fountain, derful business until now the Metropoli- that is the feature of the Chambers Drug tan Meat Market is the central and popu- Store. Here the tourist or stranger is lar market place of Honolulu. Phone advised as to the sights of the city, and 3445. supplied with any perfumes, candies or Honolulu is so healthy that people drugs he may need during his stay. Cham- don't usually die there, but when they do bers' Drug Store is one of the institutions of Honolulu. Phone No. 1291. they phone in advance to Henry H. Wil- liams, 1146 Fort Street, phone number The largest of the very fashionable 1408, and he arranges the after details. shops in the Alexander Young Building, If you are a tourist and wish to be inter- occupying the very central portion, is that red in your own plot on the mainland, of the Hawaiian News Company. Here Williams will embalm you ; or he will ar- the ultra-fashionable stationery of the range all details for interment in Hono- latest design is kept in stock. Every lulu. Don't leave the Paradise of the kind of paper, wholesale or retail, is sup- Pacific for any other, but if you must, let plied, as well as printers' and binders' your friends talk it over with Williams. supplies. There are musical instruments of every kind in stock, even to organs Whatever you do, do not fail to visit and pianos, and the Angelus Player Piano the wonderful Oahu Fish Market on King and this concern is constantly adding new otreet. Early morning is the best time features and new stock. The business for this, when all the multi-colored fish man will find his every need in the office of Hawaiian waters are presented to view supplied by the Hawaiian News Company and every nationality on the islands is on merely on a call over the phone, and this parade inspecting. Mr. Y. Anin is the is true also of the fashionable society leading spirit and founder of the Oahu leader, whether her needs are for a bridge Fish Market, which is a Chinese institu- party, a dance, or just plain stationery. tion of which the city is proud. The exhibit rooms of the Hawaiian News A monument to the pluck and energy Company are interesting of Mr. C. K. Ai and his associates is the Love's Bakery at 1134 Nuuanu Street, City Mill Company, of which he is Phone 1431, is the bakery of Honolulu. treasurer and manager. This plant at Its auto wagon deliver each morning Queen and Kekaulike streets is one of fresh from the oven, the delicious baker's Honolulu's leading enterprises, doing a bread and rolls consumed in Honolulu, flourishing lumber and mill business. while all the grocery stores carry Love's Bakery crisp, fresh crackers and biscuits THE SWEET SHOP, on Hotel Street, op- that come from the oven daily. Love's posite the Alexander Young, is the one Bakery has the most complete and up to reasonably priced tourist restaurant. date machinery and equipment in the Ter- Here there is a quartette of Hawaiian ritory. singers and players, and here at every "Maile" Australian butter from the hour may be enjoyed at very reasonable Metropolitan Meat Market on King prices the delicacies of the season. THE MID-PACIFIC 17

The Honolulu Construction and Draying Company has its main offices at 65 Queen Street. This concern has recently absorbed two of the leading express and transfer companies, and has also acquired the Honolulu Lava Brick Company. It is making a success of its enterprises. Phone 4981.

Hustace-Peck & Co., Ltd., on Queen store on Fort Street, will provide you Street, Phone 2295, prepare the crushed with these—a Chickering, a Weber, a rock used in the construction of the mod- Kroeger for your mansion, or a tiny up- ern building in Hawaii. They also main- right Boudoir for your cottage ; and if tain their own stables and drays. Draying you are a transient it will rent you a pi- in Honolulu is an important business, and ano. The Bergstrom Music Company, Hustace-Peck are the pioneers in this line, phone 2331. and keep drays of every size, sort and de- scription for the use of those who require The best thing on ice in Honolulu is them. They also conduct a rock crusher soda water. The Consolidated Soda and supply wood and coal. Water Works Co., Ltd., 6o1 Fort Street, are the largest manufacturers of delight- With the wood that is used for building ful soda beverages in the Territory. in Hawaii, Allen & Robinson on Queen Aerated waters cost from 35 cents a dozen Street, Phone 2105, have for generations bottles up. The Consolidated Co. are supplied the people of Honolulu and those agents for Hires Root Beer and put up a on the other islands ; also their buildings Kola Mint aerated water that is delicious, and paints. Their office is on Queen besides a score of other flavors. Phone Street, near the Inter-Island S. N. Com- 2171 for a case, or try a bottle at any pany Building, and their lumber yards store. extend right back to the harbor front, where every kind of hard and soft wood San Francisco's newest hotel is the grown on the coast is landed by the Plaza, facing Union Square, Post and schooners that ply from Puget Sound. Stockton Streets. It has a capacity of boo guests ; European plan, $1.50 to $5.00 The city's great furniture store, that of a day; American plan, $3.00 to $7.00 a J. Hopp & Company, occupies a large por- day. There are numerous combination tion of the hewers & Cooke Block on sample rooms. C. A. Gonder is the man- King Street. Here the latest styles in ager of the Hotel Plaza Company. home and office furniture arriving con- stantly from San Francisco are displayed The Hawaiian Fisheries Ltd., is propri- on several spacious floors. Phone No. etor of the Hawaiian Fisheries Market, 2111. Kekaulike Street, near Queen Street, Honolulu. This company sets the pace The leading music store in Hawaii is in conservation in Hawaii. It sells its fish on King and Fort Streets—the Berg- at low rates and cans any surplus also strom Music Company. No home is com- using the parts usually discarded as fer- plete in Honolulu without an ukulele, a tilizer. It is a company of Americans piano and a Victor talking machine. The and Japanese who work together along Bergstrom Music Company, with its big conservation lines. 18 THE MID-PACIFIC Wonderful New Zealand

Native New Zeal anders at Rotorua.

Scenically New Zealand is the world's throughout the Dominion for the benefit wonderland. There is no other place in of the tourist, for whom she has also the world that offers such an aggrega- built splendid roads and wonderful moun- tion of stupendous scenic wonders. The tain tracks. New Zealand is splendidly West Coast Sounds of New Zealand are served by the Government Railways, in every way more magnificent and awe- which sell the tourist for a very low inspiring than are the fjords of Norway. rate, a ticket that entitles him to travel Its chief river, the Wanganui, is a scenic on any of the railways for from one to panorama of unrivalled beauty from end two months. In the lifetime of a single to end. Its hot springs and geysers in man (Sir James Mills of Dunedin, New the Rotorua district on the North Island Zealand) a New Zealand steamship com- have no equal anywhere. In this district pany has been built up that is today the the native Maoris still keep up their fourth largest steamship company under ancient dances or haka haka, and here the British flag, and larger than any may be seen the wonderfully carved steamship company owned in American, houses of the aboriginal New Zealanders. with her ioo,000,000 population, or in There are no more beautiful lakes any- Japan with her 5o,000,000 population. where in the world than are the Cold New Zealand is a land of wonders, and Lakes of the South Island, nestling as may be reached from America by the they do among mountains the rise sheer Union Steamship Company boats from ten thousand feet. Among these moun- Vancouver, San Francisco or Honolulu. tains are some of the largest and most The Oceanic Steamship Company also scenic glaciers in the world. In these transfers passengers from Sydney. The Southern Alps is Mt. Cook, more than Government Tourist Bureau has commo- twelve thousand feet high. On its slopes dious offices in Auckland and Wellington the Government has built a hotel to which as well as the other larger cities of New there is a motor car service. Zealand. Direct information and pam- New Zealand was the first country to phlets may be secured by writing to the perfect the government tourist bureau. New Zealand Government Tourist Bu- She has built hotels and rest houses reau, Wellington, New Zealand. THE MID-PACIFIC 19 I New South Wales New South Wales is a veritable treas- Caves, ranking among the most marvel- ure ground for those in search of a health- lous oithe'world's phenomena, as well as ful holiday. Its varied topography is re- numberless resorts by mountain, valley, sponsible for a wealth and diversity of lake, river and ocean, are easy of access

GOVERNMENT T OURIST BUREAU Challis House, Sydney, N. S. W.

scenery. Its climate is ideal. The nor- from Sydney, and possess, in addition to mal conditions throughout the year are natural charm, elaborate tourist facilities. bright blue skies and sunny days. Write for illustrated literature and Kosciusko, Australia's highest moun- tourist information to Fred C. Covers, tain, and the oldest known land surface on the globe, with its endless opportuni- Superintendent, Government Tourist ties for sport all the year round, Jenolan Bureau, Challis House, Sydney, N. S. W. 20 THE MID-PACIFIC

•■■••-••••■•• South Australia and Tasmania

SOUTH AUSTRALIA TASMANIA From San Francisco, Vancouver and Tasmania is one of the finest tourist from Honolulu there are two lines of fast resorts in the southern hemisphere, but steamships to Sydney, Australia. ten hours' run from the Australian main- From Sydney to Adelaide, South Aus- land. Between Launceston and Melbourne tralia, there is a direct railway line on the fastest turbine steamer in Australia which concession fares are granted tour- runs thrice weekly and there is a regular ists arriving from overseas, and no service from Sydney to Hobart. visitor to the Australian Common- The island is a prolific orchard country wealth can afford to neglect visit- and has some of the finest fruit growing ing the southern central state of tracts in the world. The climate is cooler than the rest of Australia. Australia ; for South Australia is The lakes and rivers are nearly all the state of superb climate and unrivalled stocked with imported trout, which grow resources. Adelaide, the "Garden City of the South," is the Capital, and there is to weights not reached in other parts a Government Intelligence and Tourist of Australia. Bureau, where the tourist, investor, or The Tasmanian Government deals settler is given accurate information, directly with the tourist. Hobart, the guaranteed by the government, and free capital—one of the most beautiful cities to all. From Adelaide this Bureau con- in the world—is the headquarters of the ducts rail, river and motor excursions to Tasmanian Government Tourist Depart- almost every part of the state. Tourists ment; and the bureau will arrange for are sent or conducted through the mag- transport of the visitor to any part of nificent mountain and pastoral scenery of the island. A shilling trip to a local South Australia. The government makes resort is not too small for the Govern- travel easy by a system of coupon tickets ment Bureau to handle, neither is a tour and facilities for caring for the comfort of the whole island too big. There is a of the tourist. Excursions are arranged branch office in Launceston performing to the holiday resorts ; individuals or the same functions. parties are made familiar with the in- The Tasmanian Government has an dustrial resources, and the American as up-to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 well as the Britisher is made welcome if William Street, next door to the New he cares to make South Australia his Zealand Government office, where guide- home. books, tickets, and information can be The South Australian Intelligence and procured. The address of the Sydney Tourist Bureau has its headquarters on office is 262 George Street, and Tasmania King William Street, Adelaide, and the also has its own offices in Bisbane and government has printed many illustrated Perth. books and pamphlets describing the scenic For detailed information regarding and industrial resources of the state. A Tasmania, either as to travel or settle- postal card or letter to the Intelligence ment, enquirers should write to Mr. and Tourist Bureau in Adelaide will se- E. T. Emmett, the Director of the Tas- cure the books and information you may manian Government Tourist Dept., desire. Hobart, Tasmania. THE MID-PACIFIC 21 ------, Two Prominent Corners in Honolulu

THE REGAL. THE CLARION Occupying one of the most prominent The Clarion is Honolulu's leading corners in the shopping district of Hon- men's habberdashery, but makes a spe- olulu the Regal Shoe Store, at the corner cialty of Phoenix silk hose, the best in of Fort and Hotel Streets, is a distinct the world, for men, women and children. credit to the American progress in these Full fashion women's -Phoenix stockings, islands. The stock in this store has been as well as Phoenix silk stockings for carefully selected. men and children. Hartie's Good Eats is synonymous in Honolulu with the best there is to eat Old Kona Coffee is considered by con- at the most moderate price. "Hartie's" noisseurs to have a delicious flavor all on Union Street caters to a limited num- its own, and is the real Hawaiian coffee. ber that can be perfectly served. Pre- The best of the annual crop is secured sided over by a woman who supervises and aged by the McChesney Coffee Com- each dish, it is the daintiest and most pany on Merchant Street, Honolulu, satisfying eating place in Honolulu, well phone 2717. Mail orders of pound to patronized by both residents and tourists. five-pound sealed cans are packed with the aged Kona Coffee and sent to friends Jordan's, on Fort Street, is the store or customers on the mainland. of bargains in silks, besides every kind of women's wear and notions. The store The Oahu Ice and Electric Company has just been remodeled and the finest supplies the Army in Honolulu at a display windows put in position, so that cheaper price than the United States Gov- they have become THE attraction on the ernment can buy ice in Alaska. The Waikiki side of Fort Street. There is works and cold storage rooms are in usually a %ale in progress, for this oldest the Kakaako district, but a phone mes- store in Honolulu has become the most sage to 1128 will answer every purpose, enterprising and up-to-date under a new management that is all energy and judg- as the company has its auto delivery ment. trucks. 22 THY, MID-PACIFIC

Life In Honolulu

The Honolulu Military Academy, un- agement of Miss Jessie. Rae, whose ex- surpassed in its field, occupies splendid perience in London and America at the buildings and many acres of ground at head of health sanitariums particularly Kaimuki. It possesses a battalion of fits her for the successful management of three companies instructed by U. S. a home hotel catering to the dainty. Army officers. The Academy depart- The Home of Linens in Honolulu is ment consists of preparatory, senior and maintained at the establishment of Fer- junior high schools. Accredited courses nandes and Correa, formerly Whitney preparatory for West Point, Annapolis and Marsh, in the very center of the and mainland colleges. Campus of 90 shopping district on Fort Street. This is the foremost children's and ladies' fur- acres. Major L. G. Blackman is presi- nishing house in Hawaii. dent of the Honolulu Military Academy. Under a new and progressive man- agement this well - known house is The Young Brothers have always extending its usefulness, still making, been the purveyors of equipment for however, a specialty of fine lingerie and shark hunting in the waters about Hono- children's clothing. Matrons find every lulu. They have special boats built for style in fashionable wear brought direct tuna fishing, and small launches for fly- from Paris and New York. It is here, ing-fish shooting. The Hawaii Promo- too, that the Ladies' Home Journal pat- terns are kept in stock. Fernandes & tion Committee will arrange for fishing Correa 'make a specialty of providing excursions, or this may be done by for what you wish, but it is best to spend phoning directly to The Young Bros., a little time examining the splendid ex- Limited, 3328. This company is en- hibit of linens that is always maintained gaged also in Towing and Freighting. in the Fernandes & Correa establishment. The Quality Inn on Hotel Street, Greenbaugh, James & Co., Ltd., Com- mission Merchants and Merchandise near Fort, is aptly named, not quite a Brokers, at Merchant and Alakea Sts., restaurant, it serves dainty lunches and Honolulu, have had an experience of ten afternoon teas as well as light breakfasts. years in Hawaii, and now this firm con- Its candies and soft drinks are the best, templates branching out as a Pan-Pacific and dealing directly with Rawley's trading concern, bringing the wares for which it has agencies to Hawaii from Dairy, its ice cream, eggs and milks are every part of the United States, ready pure and fresh almost hourly. For the on cable order to ship directly to any shopper there is no more enticing cafe part of the Pacific. in Honolulu than the Quality Inn. Stevedoring in Honolulu is attended Among the very best home hotels in to by the firm of McCabe, Hamilton and Honolulu, the Davenport on Davenport Renny Co., Ltd., 20 South Queen Street. Place is in the exclusive Punahou dis- Men of almost every Pacific race are employed by this firm, and the men of trict, in a situation ideal for the visitor each race seem fitted for some particular to the Islands. The rates are two dol- part of the work, so that quick and effi- lars and a half a day, or special monthly cient is the loading and unloading of rates. The Davenport is under the man- vessels in Honolulu. THE MID-PACIFIC 23

Honolulu for the Tourist

"Jeffs" is the word most familiar to One hardly realizes the immense re- every society leader in Honolulu. From sources of the grocery store of Henry the start "Jeffs" took its place as the May & Co., in the Boston Block on Fort high class woman's outfitter in Hawaii. street, unless one spends a couple of The large spacious store at Beretania and Fort streets lends itself splendidly hours taking stock of the domestic and to the displays direct, even now, from imported eatables and drinkables there Paris as well as from New York. sold. Not only the largest grocery Home designs are a specialty at store in the Territory, but the one enjoy- "Jeffs" It was "Jeffs" design for the ing the finest trade, Henry May & Co. Waikiki bathing suit that was adjudged are righly called "The Housekeepers' by the vote of the people to be the pret- tiest and most suitable bathing suit for Ally"—as housewives have learned to de- the tropics. pend on everything this firm sells. They Not only are the leaders of fashion in make a specialty of fine Kona (native) Hawaii outfitted at "Jeffs" but tourists Coffee and have installed a gas roaster and visitors quickly find their way to this and coffee mill to make this product most interesting exhibition of the latest ready for the customer. Every steamer fashion models of the American metrop- brings fresh supplies from the mainland olis. for customers—many of whom have The prices at "Jeffs" are in accord traded with Henry May & Co. for de- with war time purses. This house has its cades, the firm being now more than head office at 1170 Broadway, New sixty years in business. York, and the, Honolulu branch is the dis- The oldest established Dry Goods tributing center for the entire Pacific. House in Honolulu is "Sachs'," situated The Milton Realty Company, at 816 on Hotel Street near Fort. For over a Fort street, phone 4899, is a vigorous quarter of a century this store has held concern dealing in real estate, invest- an enviable reputation for high-class ments and loans. Its officers have been merchandise. The beautiful court dresses connected for years with the leading worn at the receptions and balls in the Trust Companies of Honolulu, or with days of the Hawaiian Monarchy were similar concerns on the mainland, and made by this firm. Then, as now, Sachs' with the friendly business connections was the rendezvous for ladies who de- that this experience insures the firm is sired the very best in Silks and Dress making rapid progress toward a front Fabrics, Tapestries, Draperies, Linens, place in its line of work in Hawaii. Laces and Millinery. If you have films, or need supplies, The Honolulu Photo Supply Co., Kodak "The Blaisdell" is the newest and most Headquarters, Fort Street, develops and up-to-date hotel in Honolulu. It is run prints for tourists within a few hours. on the European plan, being situated in All photo supplies, films, film packs, the heart of the city, (Fort Street and plates, cameras, island scenes, photo- Chaplain Lane). It is near all the down- graphs, etc., always in stock. Develop- town clubs, cafes, and restaurants. The ing 4x5 plates or film packs, 70 cents a rates are moderate — running water in dozen ; roll films, 6o cents a dozen ; print- every room. Public baths as wall as the ing, 70 cents. Fresh films packed in private, have hot and cold water. Tele- handy sealed tins for use in the tropics phones in all the rooms, elevator and without extra charge. pleasant lanais. 24 THE MID-PACIFIC

Progressive Honolulu

THE LIBERTY HOUSE THE B. F. DILLINGHAM CO., LTD., The Liberty House succeeds the firm The Insurance Department of The B. of B. F. Ehlers & Co., which was estab- F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., represents all lished in Honolulu as far back at 1852. lines of insurance, being agents for' a growing from small beginnings to be- number of the best and most reliable in- come the largest dry goods store in Ha- surance companies in America. waii. After an honored career under Few there are in all America who have the old name it bore for sixty-five years, not had friends and relatives benefitted on July 4th, 1918, the name was changed through policies in the Aetna Life In- to The Liberty House, and under this surance Company, and affiliated com- title in future will be known Hawaii's panies, the Aetna Casualty and Surety pioneer dry goods house. Co. and the Automobile Insurance Co. of The Liberty House is in fact a de- Hartford, Conn. These insure you in partment of the American Factors Co., case of accident, ill health, liability and Ltd. It conducts the retail dry goods even workingmen's compensation, while business of this concern and being backed your automobile is totally insured against by one of the greatest financial p--wers fire, theft, collision, loss of use or dam- in Hawaii, it can afford, to carry the age of any kind to any part of the ma- largest stock and variety of dry goods chine. in the territory. In the matter of life insurance the B. Recently The Liberty House has been F. Dillingham Co., Ltd., has arranged to reconstructed ; its spacious windows on offer policies in the safest and surest Fort Street, really extensive stages, are American concerns, among those in used not only for remarkable displays of which it offers excellent policies are the dry goods and fashions, but also for patriotic displays, dioramas of the war's West Coast San Francisco Iife Insurance progress, or realistic settings illustrating Co. and the Providence-Washington In- the actual work of the Red Cross nurses surance Co. on the field. War Posters sent from the In fire insurance, the Hartford, Conn., Pan-American to the Pan-Pacific Union is perhaps the best known of American are displayed here as are exhibits from fire insurance companies, certainly it is the Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, so that everyone stops at The Liberty one of the most solid and reliabe, as is House. the Proenix Fire Insurance Co., both of The people of Hawaii know The Lib- which concerns the B. F. Dillingham Co., erty House through all its various floors Ltd., represents in Hawaii. and departments, it is the first place to Life, fire and every kind of property attract visitors. This firm makes a insurance is underwritten by the B. F. specialty of ladies' apparel and of bring- ing the latest fashions to Hawaii. Dillingham Co., Ltd. A generous portion The year round silk and woolen suits, of its office space in the Stangenwald skirts, waists and all the wearing apparel Building on Merchant St., Honolulu, is of women are rushed through at fre- given over to the insurance department ; quent intervals from New York by Wells friends of the firm are invited to visit or Fargo Express, being only twelve to to ask for rates or information when con- fourteen days in transit, so that the fash- ions on Fort Street are only a few days sidering the placing of any kind of in- behind those of Broadway. surance. THE MID-PACIFIC 25 I 1.••••••■•••■•■•••■••••■■•■■•••■1 The Home Hotels of Honolulu The Best of their Kind on the Pacific

The Land of the Lanai. The Colonial, palatial house and grounds, 1451 to 1473 Emma street, in the most beautiful section of the city within a few moments' walk of the business center or the hills, on the car line. Rates from $50 a month up, $3.00 a day ; perfect ho- tel service. Miss M. Johnson, Manager, Phone 2876.

The Romagoy, 1429 Makiki street, near Wilder avenue and the car. This luxur- ious home hotel is in the heart of the aristocratic quarter amid sub-tropical The Halekulani, hotel and bungalows, gardens, it has its own poultry farm. 2199 Kalia Road, is the famous old Hau The rates are $3.00 a day or $50 a month Tree homestead on the beach at Waikiki. up. Phone ' 3675. Lucille Romagoy, Clifford Kimball, manager. Rates, $3.00 Proprietress. a day, $75.00 a month. Phone 7760.

Mrs. L. M. Gray's at Waikiki, 2221 Kalia The Donna, 1262 to 1286 Beretania St., Road, is life out under the Hau tree lanai phone 2480 ; rates $47.50 a month up, and on the beach, the best swimming at or $3.00 a day. This series of cottages, Waikiki. Spacious grounds surround bungalows and homes, in the heart of the buildings which are near the car the residence district, is on the direct line. Rates, $3.00 a day and $50 a month car line to the city or the beach, its up. Phone 7116. splendid management for years has made it known everywhere about the Vida Villa, Mrs. L. B. Evans, proprietor, Pacific. is on King street, a few moments by the car from the city or Waikiki. The The St. Elmo, 1065 Punchbowl Street, grounds about the cottages are park like is opposite the public library and the and spacious. The rates are from a dol- Palace, in specious shaded grounds, but lar and a half a day up, and from $35 a in the heart of the city, an ideal home month up. Phone 1146. for army and navy employes. Rates, The Macdonald, 1402 Punahou street, $35.00 a month. Phone 2027, Alice rates $2.00 a day or $50 a month, phone Heapy, Proprietress. 1113, is beautifully situated in a grove of royal palms near famous Oahu Col- lege, it has its own tennis court and is an ideal family hotel, near Wilder avenue and the cars to the city or to Waikiki. The Davenport, Davenport Place, phone 4032, Miss Jessie Rae proprietress. 26 THE MID-PACIFIC

■■■■ .s.•- •• ••■••••■■•■■•••• Entertainment In Honolulu 1

The Island Curio The Hub is the reasonably priced cloth- Co. on Hotel St., ing store in Honolulu, Clifford Spitzer opposite the Alex. is manager, and for a decade has studied Young Hotel, is the supplying of men in Hawaii with Hawaii's o l d e s t, suitable clothing and men's furnishings. largest and most A new store has just been completed for reliable Hawaiian the Hub, at 69-71 S. Hotel St., nr. Fort. and South Sea Cur i o establish- The Office Supply Company, on Fort St., ment. D. A. Mc- is the home in Hawaii of the Remington Typewriter Co., and of the Globe-Wer- Namarra, Prop. nicke filing and book cases. Every kind of office furniture is kept in stock, as Ernest Kaai is known the Pacific round well as a complete line of office station- through his Hawaiian Ukulele boys who ary and every article that the man of have toured every land. In Honolulu business might need. he teaches the Ukulele, writes Hawaiian music and provides Hawaiian music and entertainment, his studio is in the Alex- Wall, Nichols & Co. are the leading ander Young Hotel building, The Kaai magazine and toy men in the territory Glee Club, phone 3687. of Hawaii, they conduct two stores on King Street, one is the home of maga- zines, stationery and toys, the other of The Liberty,. the Bijou and the Empire sporting goods and typewriters. At 67 are the three large theatres in Honolulu King Street, for office supplies, at the providing either film features or dra- King and Bethel Street store, musical in- matic performances. The Liberty is one struments and supplies. of the finest theatres in the Pacific, and is well worth a visit on account of its art The Baby Shop—Miss May Sutherland, collection alone. proprietress, is at 1190 Fort street, op- posite the Catholic Cathedral, here is The Pan-Pacific Gardens, on Kuakini carried a complete line of baby outfits, street, near Nuuanu Avenue, constitute handiwork for the child being a spec- one of the finest Japanese Tea Gardens ialty. Here the nursery is outfitted and immaginable. Here some wonderful the Baby Shop is well worth a visit from Japanese dinners are served, and visitors any one. are welcomed to the gardens at all times. Adjoining these gardens are the wonder- ful Liliuokalani gardens and the 'series of waterfalls.

Shark Hunting and Tuna fishing are Ha- waiian sports which Young Brothers ar- range for tourists and others. Phone 3328 27 THE MID - PACIFIC

The Hawaiian Pineapple Planters' Association, with executive offices in the Kauikeolani building, Honolulu, has brought the canners as well as the plant- ers of pineapples together in Hawaii to maintain the world standard that has been the pride of the producers of Ha- waiian brands of canned pineapples. Suited by soil and climate, Hawaii from the first planting, began to produce pines that for canning and preserving purposes became the world standard of excellence, so that today Hawaii is bet- ter known on account of "Hawaiian Pine- apples" that are on almost every civilized table, than even for her ukulele and music. The men at the front are en- abled through the united work of the Hawaiian Pineapple Planters' Associa- tion to have the canned, or tinned in Europe, Hawaiian pines in the trenches. 28 THE MID-PACIFIC

■ L-=•■••■•■■ •Ms ■•■••■-•••■■■••NN.IIN M.M [7.■ ....• •■■•••■•• ••••••••MM •I• ■■••• FACTS ABOUT THE PHILIPPINES Provided by the Manila Merchants' Association .1 AREA Americans (outside of Army and The total area of the Philippine Isl- Navy) 5,000 ands is 120,000 square miles made up as Filipinos 236,900 follows : Spaniards 4,400 Sq. Mi. Other Europeans 1,500 Commercial forest 61,000 Chinese 16,600 Non-commercial forest 11,000 Filipino transients in Manila 5,500 Cultivated land 14,000 All others 1,900 Grass land 20,000 Unexplored and other smaller Total 271,800 islands 14,000 CLIMATE Total 120,000 The Philippine Islands have a mildly tropical climate. The nights are cool The cultivated lands include : and sunstrokes are unknown. The tem- Acres perature record for the past 30 years 2,189,000 Rice shows an average of 80°. The recorded 1,236,000 Abaca (hemp) death rate per 1000 whites in Manila for 680,000 Coconuts 1917 was 8.8 as compared with 16.5 for 1,070,000 Corn New York, 15 for San Francisco, 14 for 145,000 Tobacco Chicago, 18 for Glasgow, and 22 for Bel- Sugar Cane 444,000 fast. 76,000 Maguey COMMERCE Cacao 2,6002 Coffee 2,000 The exports of the islands for the cal- endar year 1917 amounted to $95,604,000 REAL PROPERTY of which $63,235,000 went to the United The assessed value (in U. S. currency) States. The imports for the same period of taxable real estate of the islands is as amounted to $65,797,000 of which $37,- follows : 621,000 came from the United States. Manila (15,577 parcels) $ 52,017,000 The principal articles of export were. Total real estate outside of Hemp $46,807,500 Manila 14-6,090,000 Sugar 12,277,500 Maximum tax rate Manila....11/2 per cent Coconut Oil 11,40Q,000 Maximum provincial tax rate 7/8 per cent Copra 8,32, ,J00 Allotted as follows : Tobacco (Mfd. and Unmfd.) 7,150,500 I/8 per cent Roads and Bridges. Maguey " 2,348,000 1/4 per cent Municipal Prim. Schools. Embroidery 1,964,500 1/4 per cent Municipal, General. The principal articles of import were : 1/4 per cent Provincial, General. Cotton and manufactures of $18,789,500 There is no personal property tax. Iron and Steel 5,927,000 POPULATION Rice 5,390,500 The total population of the Philippines Wheat Flour 1,915,500 is estimated to be 10,000,000, of which Coal 1,538,000 about 900,000 belong to the non-Chris- Automobiles, parts of, and tian or uncivilized tribes. Manila has a tires for 1,540,000 population of 271,800, made up as fol- Illuminating Oil 1,339,000 lows : Meat Products 1,425,000 The Hands-Around-the-Pacific Movement THE PAN-PACIFIC CLUBS are local organizations, affiliated with the Pan- Pacific UNION, but governing themselves in each community. Many of these take the form of weekly luncheon clubs that entertain visitors and speakers from Pacific lands — the different clubs about the Pacific notifying one another of the proposed visits of distinguished men who have Pan-Pacific messages to deliver. THE PAN-PACIFIC UNION is an organization representing Governments of Pacific lands, and with which are affiliated Chambers of Commerce, and kindred bodies, working for the advancement of Pacific States and Communities, and a greater co-operation among and between the people of all races in Pacific lands. The Pan-Pacific Union is incorporated with an International Board of Trustees, representing every race and nation of the Pacific. The trustees may be added to or replaced by appointed representatives of the different countries co-operating in the Pan-Pacific Union. The following are the main objects set forth in the charter of the Pan-Pacific Union: 1. To call in conference delegates from all Pacific peoples for the pur- pose of discussing and furthering the interests common to Pacific nations. 2. To maintain in Hawaii and other Pacific lands bureaus of information and education concerning matters of interest to the people of the Pacific, and to disseminate to the world information of every kind of progress and opportun- ity in Pacific lands, and to promote the comfort and interests of all visitors. 3. To aid and assist those in all Pacific communities to better understand each other, and to work together for the furtherance of the best interests of the land of their adoption, and, through them, to spread abroad about the Pacific the friendly spirit of inter-racial co-operation. 4. To assist and to aid the different races in lands of the Pacific to co- operate in local fairs, to raise produce, and to create home manufactured goods. 5. To own real estate, erect buildings needed for housing exhibits ; pro- vided and maintained by the respective local committees. 6. To maintain a Pan-Pacific Commercial Museum, and Art Gallery. 7. To create dioramas, gather exhibits, books and other Pan-Pacific mate- rial of educational or instructive value. 8. To promote and conduct a Pan-Pacific Exposition of the handicrafts of the Pacific peoples, of their works of art, and scenic dioramas of the most beautiful bits of Pacific lands, or illustrating great Pacific industries. 9. To establish and maintain a permanent college and "clearing house" of information (printed and otherwise) concerning the lands, commerce, peoples, and trade opportunities in countries of the Pacific, creating libraries of commer- cial knowledge, and training men in this commercial knowledge of Pacific lands. 10. To secure the co-operation and support of Federal and State govern- ments, chambers of commerce, city governments, and of individuals. 11. To enlist for this work of publicity in behalf of Alaska, the Territory of Hawaii, and the Philippines, Federal aid and financial support, as well as similar co-operation and support from all Pacific governments. 12. To bring all nations and peoples about the Pacific Ocean into closer friendly and commercial contact and relationship. THE PAN-PACIFIC ASSOCIATION Is an organization allied with the PAN- PACIFIC UNION, and in which membership is open to anyone who is in sympathy with Pan-Pacific endeavor, and the creation of a better knowledge in the world at large of the advantages Pacific lands have to offer.

APPLICATION FOR MEMBERSHIP. To the Secretary, Pan-Pacific Association, Honolulu, Hawaii. I desire membership for one year in the "Pan-Pacific Association," with subscription to the "Mid-Pacific Magazine." I enclose $2.50, payment in full. (Name) (Address) The Oahu Railway practically encircles the Island of Oahu. There are daily trains to Haleiwa—"the House Beautiful" (see arrow), and through the most extensive pineapple fields in the world, at Wahiawa.