lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 1 WE ARE BAD COMPANY
BAD is fun. BAD is social. BAD is informal. BAD is exciting. BAD goes with music. BAD is a science and an art. BAD is good.
Our beers are craft-brewed, with outstanding flavours and impact, inspired by the American approach to ale production and current British craft brewing renaissance.
WeAreBadCo BadCoBrewingandDistilling WeAreBad.co
BAD COMPANY Unit 3, North Hill Road, Dishforth Airfield, Dishforth, North Yorkshire, YO7 3DH T: +44 (0) 1423 324 005 E: [email protected]
2 CONTENTS ISSUE 2 2015
The Guests 10 Pints Of View Steve Renshaw wonders if something doesn’t add up about the way we’re served beer.
13 15 Old Ale Tales We look at the history of the pub named after the historic document.
15 Meet The Brewer A trip to Cathedral Heights Brewery to find out about their past, present and future.
21 Behind Bars 21 A new feature where we talk to long standing publicans.
The Regulars 7 Lincoln News A round up of Local Pub and Brewery News.
11 What’s Brewing A look at what’s happening nationally.
12 Members Page Find out what’s going on with the Lincoln CAMRA Branch.
20 Bottled Beers Beers from another, flat, world.
22 & 23 18 Find the TravAle A walking tour of the pubs surrounding Lincoln Castle.
25 Unfined Quiz Ken takes a look at vegan See how much you know about Magna Carta. friendly beers lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 3 THE REAL ALE STORE for the finest Local, British & Imported Bottled Beers
Over 300 Top Quality Bottled Beers & Ciders Gift Packs, Vouchers, Mixed Cases, Glassware & Books Opening Times: Mon 10am - 3pm, Tues - Sat 10am - 6pm 12-14 KIRK GATE, NEWARK, NG24 1AB T: 01636 918022 E: [email protected]
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4 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk Welcome. Summertime
It’s a big year for Lincoln, I doubt measures and states “Let there be one measure of wine you’ve failed to notice that the 800th throughout our whole realm; and one measure of ale.” It didn’t anniversary of the signing of the Magna have anything to say about oversized glasses but it was the Carta has drawn much attention to beginning of the standardisation of weights and measures. So this little city. We’ve had a royal visit we’ve tailored some of our regular features, such as TravAle and to officially open the newly refurbished Old Ale Tales, to help celebrate this fact. But there’s plenty more Lincoln Castle where one of the four in this issue including a look at the occasionally controversial remaining original copies are housed, issue of fining beer, the process that it entails and whether it there has been plenty of coverage in is actually necessary or not. I take a trip to Cathedral Heights the media and with Barons popping brewery and find out about the vast array of plates the head up around the city centre it’s clearly a brewer is spinning there and we start a new feature in which focus for much of what’s happening we meet long standing publicans and find the tales they have around Lincoln this year. to tell. As usual if you have any comments please send them to me [email protected] or tweet me @ImpAleEditor. So we’re looking at what the beer world is doing to celebrate, Or be my friend on Facebook – Lincoln CAMRA ImpAle. not just to hop on the band wagon but because the Magna Carta was vital in making sure you get a decent pint every time you visit the pub! Section 35 was concerned with short
Our Twitter account @Lincoln_Camra has over 2400 followers! Please like our new Facebook page Lincoln CAMRA. To help keep the success going we need your help! Please email Aaron at [email protected] with your local pub’s events, be it a regular weekly quiz/food night and one off events, it’s an easy way to become active within the branch with minimal effort.
ImpAle ImpAle is the magazine of Lincoln CAMRA branch. CAMRA campaigns for real ale, real pubs and consumer rights. It is an Editor independent, voluntary organisation with more than 160,000 Greg Richards members nationally. ImpAle magazine is published three times a year and is available free through pubs in Lincoln Design branch areas. To join CAMRA, help preserve Britain’s brewing Matt Richards and pub industry, get the campaigns quarterly newsletter and Art Of Matelot, Matelot Marketing Limited its monthly newspaper What’s Brewing and a host of other membership benefits visit www.camra.org.uk Publisher Neil Richards MBE CAMRA is a limited company, run at national level by an Matelot Marketing Limited elected unpaid board of directors and at regional level 01536 358670 by volunteer regional directors, both backed by full time [email protected] professional staff. Consumer Rights With kind help from For complaints about issues such as short measures Campaign for Real Ale Steve Renshaw, Wendy Renshaw, contact Lincolnshire Trading Standards on 01522 782341 or Ashley Sewell, Matt Mills, Aaron Joyce, Consumer Direct on 0845 404 0506. 230 Hatfield Road Ken McGibney, Steve Richardson and St Albans Cathedral Heights Brewery. Disclaimer Herts The views contained within ImpAle do not necessarily Tel: 01727 867201 represent the views of CAMRA, the editor, or the Lincoln [email protected] branch. lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 5 6 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk NEWS IN BRIEF Guests at the Magna Carta The Magna Carta in Lincoln now stocks beers from Pheasantry Brewery, alongside ones from breweries in the Cheers Marston’s stable. And, with Marston’s recent acquisition of the Thwaites brewing business, we should soon be seeing Lancaster Bomber (4.4% ABV) to Beer at the pub. Local beer festivals If you enjoyed the recent Lincoln Beer Festival, why not try some of the Major organisations in Britain’s beer significant legal documents in history. events being staged by local pubs industry are backing the UK’s first national And in 2015 beer is still vital - not just and breweries during the summer? th beer day on 15 June. CAMRA, along to the British economy but to the social Lincoln’s Golden Eagle has its beer with Britain’s Beer Alliance, the British health of the nation. festival at the end of June, as does the Beer and Pub Association, the Society of Pheasantry Brewery at East Markham. Independent Brewers, Cask Marque, the The aim of Beer Day Britain is to raise the At the end of July, Springhead Brewery Independent Family Brewers of Britain, the profile of beer as Britain’s national drink. holds its summer festival, and the first th Association of Licensed Multiple Retailers At 12.15pm on 15 June, the organisers weekend in August is the date of the and the British Hop Association have all are planning a nationwide communal Dog and Bone’s Kennel Fest. signed up to support the initiative. cheers to beer, when beer lovers will be encouraged to raise a glass to celebrate The idea is the brainchild of Jane Peyton British beer. The intention is to trend Anniversary beers (Beer Sommelier of the Year 2014), Sophie on Twitter with the hashtag CheersBDB from Tom Wood de Ronde (head brewer at Brentwood and photos of people raising their beer By the time ImpAle goes to print, Crafty Brewery) and Sara Barton (head brewer glasses. Farmer (4.4% ABV), the second of four at Grantham’s Brewsters Brewery). They 20th anniversary brews from Tom have deliberately chosen Magna Carta Appropriately, Lincoln CAMRA members Wood’s Beers, should have appeared Day to celebrate our national drink. Ale will be raising their glasses at the Magna in local pubs. And Old Codger (4.0% was so important in England in 1215 Carta on Exchequergate. ABV), the first of the celebratory that it was included in one of the most specials, is now available in bottles. Newby Wyke’s Czech exchange
In April, Newby Wyke brewer Robert the end of the process. He also March, together with his wife presented the brewery staff with Christine and CAMRA’s Brewery commemorative T-shirts. Liaison Officer Malcolm Cooke, visited the Pegas Brewery in Brno. On the home front, Liberty (4.1% The Czech city has had the right to ABV), the last of the Grantham brew beer since the 12th century brewery’s single-hop series, but, when it opened in 1992, Pegas was launched at Lincoln Beer was the first private brewery in the Festival. The beer marks the 800th region of Moravia. anniversary of the signing of the Magna Carta. Having brewed his IPA, Distant Grounds (5.2% ABV), on the Pegas kit, Robert was given the honour of Robert March (left) at the Pegas Brewery in Brno. ringing the brewery bell to signal lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 7 News Lincoln CAMRA Pub of the Year Awards
The Dog and Bone on John Street has community local run, since February been named as the Lincoln CAMRA 2013, by enthusiastic husband and wife Branch Pub of the Year for the second team, Chris and Sarah Sorrell. The pair year in succession. Having won the also won the Batemans Publican of the Lincoln CAMRA chairman, Aaron Joyce, award in 2014, the Batemans’ pub went Year award for 2015. presents certificates at the Dog and Bone on to reach the last 16 of CAMRA’s and the Dambusters Inn national competition. The overall runner-up and Lincoln CAMRA Country Pub of the Year is the Dambusters This year, the Lincoln branch competition Inn at Scampton. The other city pubs in was divided into two categories. Members the final were the Strugglers Inn and the voted for their favourite city pub and their Golden Eagle. The Butcher and Beast in favourite from the villages in the branch Heighington and the Three Horseshoes area. Then five judges visited the top in Waddington were the other country three pubs in each category to assess finalists. the quality of the beer, the atmosphere, service, community focus and value for Lincoln CAMRA chairman, Aaron Joyce, money. said, “For the Dog and Bone to win the title for the second year in a row is credit the Dambusters Inn shows that we have The Dog and Bone, a hidden gem among to the hard work of Chris, Sarah, their great pubs right across our branch area.” the old terraced houses off Monks Road, staff and indeed their customers. But the came top of the judges’ vote. It is a thriving competition was close and the award to
IN BRIEF
Single-hopped Specials from Pheasantry Adnams beers at the Wig beers from Oldershaw Pheasantry Brewery’s Artisan range of The Wig and Mitre on Lincoln’s historic Grantham’s Oldershaw Brewery has monthly specials continues with some Steep Hill has teamed up with Southwold been busy developing a line of single- very interesting brews. June’s is Cask brewer, Adnams. Ghost Ship, a 4.5% hopped beers showcasing some Pilsner (3.9% ABV), a lager-style beer, and ABV pale ale is now a regular on the fantastic new hop varieties. The one-offs this is followed in July by American IPA handpumps, and Blackshore Stout and so far in 2015 have been Olicana (4.0% (4.3% ABV). In September, look out for Jack Brand Mosaic are on the keg taps. ABV) and Progress (4.0% ABV). Olicana Orange Pheasant (6.0% ABV), a golden was a zingy, golden beer which could beer with the zest of oranges and ... and a microbrewery coming be mistaken as having New World rather grapefruit in the aroma. To keep up with demand, Pheasantry have doubled their to Harby than English origins, and Progress was a The Wig’s owner, Valerie Hope, has pale, zesty beer with a soft bitterness and cold store capacity and storage room racking. been granted planning permission for hints of fruits, spice and honey. The next a microbrewery at the Bottle and Glass in the series, Pilot, is eagerly awaited this at Harby. We hope to bring you more summer. Another new local brewer information in the next edition of ImpAle. Long-standing home brewer, John Meet local brewers Carcass, has moved into commercial The Ritz, on Lincoln’s High Street, is brewing with the establishment of holding meet-the-brewer evenings on the Cheeky Imp Brew Company. He the last Thursday of each month, through operates a 1/2-barrel plant in his garage to September. These are excellent at Waddington, and currently has four opportunities to chat to local brewers and regular beers. These are Bombs Away try their beers. The featured breweries (4.0% ABV), a best bitter, Delta Pale (3.8% are: ABV), a pale ale, Olde Yeller (4.6% ABV), a 30th July - Oldershaw golden ale, and Fleur-de-Lis (3.8% ABV), 27th August - Grafton a blonde ale. 24th September - Pheasantry
8 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk News Brewster’s Hophead Rules the World
Brewster’s Brewery of Grantham has entirely by practising brewers. This year, won one of the global brewing industry’s the panel comprised 43 distinguished highest accolades for their best-selling brewers from 16 countries and 6 beer, Hophead (3.6% ABV). The beer won continents. gold in International Cask Conditioned Ale Class 1 at the International Brewing Sara Barton set up Brewster’s in 1998 Awards. in the Vale of Belvoir before moving to Grantham in 2006 as the business The awards are held every two years in expanded. On hearing the news, Sara Burton upon Trent, the home of British said, “We are thrilled to win the award. I Sara Barton receives the certificate from Bill brewing, and are popularly known as “The always knew our beers were good but it’s Taylor, chairman of judges for the International Brewing Oscars”. First held in 1886, they incredible to think that our tiny brewery is Brewing Awards. Sara’s husband, Sean are the yardstick by which good beers winning awards alongside the best and McArdle, proudly displays the medal. are judged. The competition is unique biggest breweries in the world.” amongst these events in being judged Passing on Brewing Skills
The Welbeck Project aims to build a teach a little about their craft. creative and sustainable community at the Welbeck Estate, between Worksop During Sheffield Science Week, Welbeck and Mansfield. The 20-year project Abbey Brewery worked with Sheffield is bringing together rural and creative Hallam University and Doncaster CAMRA industries, education and the arts in order to host adults of all ages and explore to provide new opportunities for people to the science behind beer and brewing. work, live, learn and create. The brewery has also hosted science students from Beaumont Leys School to Brewing is one of the traditional crafts learn about enzyme activity, fermentation enjoying a well-deserved renaissance at and process engineering. Hands-on science at Welbeck Abbey Brewery Welbeck. Although Welbeck Abbey is a hard work, and business acumen makes commercial brewery making up to 18,000 Head brewer, Claire Monk, said, “We all learning and working in this artisan pints a week, the brewers also work love working in the brewery and sharing industry exciting, varied and ultimately a closely with local schools and charities to that passion. Needing to bring in science, joy.” Business Award for Springhead
alongside Hawkshead Brewery, from This year, Springhead Brewery is the Society of Independent Brewers. celebrating its 25th anniversary, and in The company was recognised for the that time has become the second largest implementation of its business plans and in Nottinghamshire, behind Castle Rock. diversification into new areas. The business began life in Sutton-on- Trent with a 2.5-barrel brewing kit. As Springhead managing director, Helen sales increased, the brewery moved to Teasdale, said, “We pride ourselves larger premises where it expanded to not only on the quality of our beers, a 10-barrel plant, and in 2004, up to 50 though of course this is our passion and barrels. In 2011, Springhead relocated Springhead Managing Director, Helen fundamental to our business, but also on to a converted feed mill in the centre of Teasdale, receives the SIBA award thriving in a tough economic market by the picturesque village of Laneham, near striving to be innovative and evolving with Retford. Springhead Brewery of Laneham has our market and drinkers.” won the Business Development Award, lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 9 Fired up with campaigning zeal (and three pints of beer), I I can’t do ...... composed an email to the landlord of the pub we had visited asking, politely, if he could justify the beer-pricing policy. A couple of days later, I received a considered and comprehensive response.
This was, he told me, the first time the issue had been raised. He was relatively new to the trade and regular customers had accepted the pricing policy without comment. He pointed out that, with wine, non-proportional prices are perfectly normal in all pubs and restaurants. A small glass (125 ml) will be proportionally more than a medium (175 ml) which, in turn, will be more than a large (250 ml). And a bottle is always cheaper than three large glasses. Are wine drinkers less penny-pinching Steve Renshaw addresses a mathematically than beer lovers? Or is the maths too difficult? challenging issue Of course, when we go to the supermarket, we expect larger Before I retired completely, I did some adult numeracy teaching. packs to be proportionally cheaper than smaller ones. But For a variety of reasons, lots of people find maths difficult. But that doesn’t apply to products sold by weight, such as meat or it takes a lot of courage to admit that you have a problem and vegetables, or products sold by capacity, such as petrol. And, if do something about it. I found it very rewarding to help learners we are applying the “buying in bulk” principle in the pub, would improve their number skills. I get a discount for a round of three or four pints?
Generally, the topic that people found most difficult was fractions. The other economic argument for the half-pint premium relates Many learners understood halves but, after that, it got tricky. So to the fixed costs linked to serving a drink. The costs of service, I’m always surprised when I go to a pub where they don’t seem washing up etc are the same whether it’s a pint or a half. to be able to work out half the price of a pint of beer. The landlord finished with a warning of the unintended Recently, I went to an award-winning pub/restaurant for a consequences that might result from CAMRA’s stance. Pubs celebration lunch. We arrived early so I could enjoy a pint before might simply increase the price of a pint to twice that of a half, the meal. We had a tab, so I didn’t notice the prices until we rather than cutting the price of a half. Certainly, had I been got the bill. My pint cost £3.30 - about average for this part of charged £3.40 for my pint and £1.70 for my wife’s half, I would the country - but my wife’s half of the same beer was £1.80. So, not have batted an eyelid. had we bought two halves, they would have cost 30p more than a pint. As with the full-pint issue (where beer drinkers expect to have their drink topped up when the frothy head has had time to It’s not unusual for pubs to charge a premium for half a pint. settle), the half-pint premium generates a disproportionate level Often the price will be rounded up to the next 5p or 10p, but 15p of resentment among many pub-goers. And it does penalise extra is at the high end of the scale. On the other hand, many moderate drinkers and women who do not feel comfortable with pubs will make sure that the price is exactly half that of a pint. a pint glass.
When we got home, I discovered that the CAMRA National Annual I wait with interest to see how CAMRA’s National Executive General Meeting had, that very morning, passed a motion noting decide to tackle the issue and what the reaction of the trade the “distasteful” practice that some pubs operate in charging will be. consumers more for a half pint than the proportional cost of a pint. Although this is not illegal, the membership instructed CAMRA’s National Executive to mount a campaign against the practice, whilst attempting to bring in legislation to stop it.
10 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk WHAT’SBREWING NATIONALLY
ImpAle rounds up CAMRA’s news from the last three months
November > In a landmark ruling, a judge has ruled that CAMRA branches can nominate pubs as assets of community value. Previously, some councils had declined to accept such nominations on the grounds that only local organisations could make nominations, not national bodies. > The Salutation in Ham, Gloucestershire, has been named CAMRA’s National Pub of the Year. The licensees, Peter and Claire Tiley, had never worked in a pub until two years ago. > Elland 1872 Porter was crowned CAMRA’s Champion Winter Beer of Britain 2015 at the National Winter Ales Festival in Derby. This is the third time it has won the award and, in 2013, it went on to win Champion Beer of Britain.
April > Following extensive CAMRA campaigning, Chancellor George Osborne announced an unprecedented third consecutive cut in beer tax in the budget. The duty on cider and perry was also cut. > After more than 10 years of campaigning by CAMRA volunteers, parliament has agreed national pubco reforms. Tenants of companies with more than 500 pubs will have the right, at review or renewal, to request an independent assessment of their rent. They will also be able to opt to buy beer on the open market. > From 6th April, pubs in England listed as Assets of Community Value will have greater protection. Listed pubs cannot be demolished or converted to other uses without planning permission.
May > The threat pubs are under from property developers was highlighted by the destruction of the Carlton Tavern in Kilburn, North London. Westminster City Council is seeking legal advice after a developer demolished the pub which Historic England had been intending to recommend for Grade II listing. > Adnams Brewery has reported its highest ever annual beer production - 95,00 barrels - in the year to 31st December 2014. Operating profit grew by 15% over the period. > “Good Beer Guide” editor, Roger Protz, has received a lifetime achievement award from the Society of Independent Brewers. The award, in recognition of his beer writing, was presented at SIBA’s BeerX event in Sheffield.
If you’re not a CAMRA member, you won’t be getting all the latest real ale, pub and brewing news delivered to your door every month. Join, using the for on page 26 and get What’s Brewing and Beer delivered free, plus a host of other membership benefits.
lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 11 Lincoln CAMRA Members’ News
Good beer or bad beer If you’re a keg beer drinker, you can be fairly sure that your favourite beer will be the same wherever you drink it. The appearance and flavour of the beer on the bar is as it left the brewery. On the other hand, cask-conditioned beer is still fermenting in the pub cellar so it requires careful handling and it has a short lifespan. So the quality of the same real ale served in different pubs can vary dramatically.
We need to know which pubs are serving consistently good real ale, so we can nominate them for “The Good Beer Guide”. The most important tool we have for tracking beer quality across our large branch area is the National Beer Scoring Scheme. It’s easy to enter scores - simply find the pub on WhatPub, log in with your CAMRA number and password, and enter the date of visit and score. You can include details of the beer but it’s not compulsory. Scoring is bound to be subjective but, as a guideline, a score of 3 should be the minimum standard you would normally expect of a pub in “The Good Beer Guide”.
Please help us by entering a score whenever you visit a local pub.
Meet the brewer - and fellow CAMRA members The Ritz, on Lincoln’s High Street, is holding meet-the-brewer evenings on the last Thursday of each month, through to September. And a table in a prime position is reserved for Lincoln CAMRA at the events. If you’d like to chat with a local brewer and socialise with fellow CAMRA members, come and join us.
Keep your personal details up to date If you move house, or change your phone number or e-mail address, please let CAMRA headquarters know. The HQ membership database is our only means of staying in contact with you. You can update your personal details via the CAMRA website (www.camra. org.uk) or by calling membership enquiries on 01727 798440. Lincoln members enjoying a drink with Ken Munro of Milestone Brewery
Branch Diary July Sun 5th Committee Meeting - Sun, Saxilby, 8pm. Wed 8th Branch Meeting - Golden Eagle, Lincoln, 8pm. Thu 30th Social and Meet-the-Brewer (Oldershaw) - Ritz, Lincoln, 7pm.
August Sun 2nd Committee Meeting - Ferry Boat, Washingborough. 8pm Wed 5th Branch Meeting - Lincoln Green, North Hykeham. 8pm
September Sun 6th Committee Meeting - Red Lion, Dunston. 8pm Wed 9th Branch Meeting - Centurion, North Hykeham. 8pm
Check out the branch website for up-to-date details of trips and socials.
12 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk Old Ale Tales
Trade directories held in Lincoln Central Library show that The other Magna Carta Number 1 Exchequergate housed the Cathedral Restaurant between 1965 and 1979. In 1980, the name was changed to Harvey’s Cathedral Restaurant.
The Magna Carta pub was opened in 1993 by Mansfield Brewery. In 1999, Mansfield Brewery was taken over by Wolverhampton & Dudley Brewery, which became Marston’s in 2007. However, the Exchequergate and Lincoln Mansfield Brewery sign continued to hang outside the Magna Cathedral around 1905 Carta until last year’s £90,000 refurbishment. (from an original postcard belonging to Steve Richardson). The Castle Café is on the right.
The Magna Carta today
Over the centuries, the view of Lincoln Cathedral from Castle Square has been a favourite for artists and, more recently, photographers. As a result, it is possible to trace the evolution of the buildings of Exchequergate and the top of Steep Hill.
Today, Number 1 Exchequergate is the address of the Magna Carta - that’s the Marston’s pub, not the historic document! The Further information about the history of the buildings of pub also occupies what was 35 Steep Hill. The present brick Exchequergate and Steep Hill can be found in publications from buildings date from the 19th century, and replaced half-timbered the Society for Lincolnshire History & Archaeology (www.slha. buildings that can be seen on several drawings and paintings org.uk) and The Survey of Lincoln (www.thesurveyoflincoln. of the cathedral. co.uk). At the beginning of the 20th century, Number 1 Exchequergate was the Castle Café. The building remained a café through to the mid-1950s and the exterior changed very little.
Unit 1 Churchill Business Park Sleaford Road Bracebridge Heath For the next ten or so years, the -JODPMOt-/'' building was a private residence. BRITAIN’S LEADING CASK AND CRAFT BEER WHOLESALER This view from the early 60s shows a major external rework of the ground floor. Proud to Support Lincoln CAMRA and ImpAle
lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 13 The best things in life are three
Visitor Centre open Monday to Saturday 9.30am - 4.30pm www. hooky.co.uk e: [email protected]
HANDCRAFTED BEERS FROM THE The Brewery, Hook Norton, Oxfordshire, OX15 5NY 01608 730384 COTSWOLD HILLS SINCE 1849
14 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk Meet The Brewer Cathedral Heights
Mid-April is about the time most of us start thinking about our was brisk and stopping me slightly short of describing the day first BBQ of the year. We all know it’s probably a bit too chilly as ‘warm’. Yet here were dozens of people milling around just really but the sun’s out and we want a couple of practice runs after midday, they clearly knew this was the place to be. before the summer gets here and someone’s having one every other weekend. For most of us it means getting the BBQ out There were 5 beers on offer on the bar that day so I started with the shed, wondering if that half used pack of charcoal from last a half of the well rounded BBH, served by the brewery’s second year will still light and deciding whether to put the bottles of beer in command, also called Steve, who clearly knew his stuff and outside to keep them cool or keep them inside so they don’t talked me through the other beers so I could plan ahead and freeze. not waste any time being indecisive at the bar later. Not only did it fill me with confidence that the beer here was going to be However if you run your own brewery you don’t have to worry good it also reassured me that even though this was not the about such things. You simply ask the guys from the local man I had come to meet he was clearly passionate about this American smokehouse to come and provide the food, get a beer, how it was made and what the brewery is doing. vintage bus to provide rides in case it gets too cold and then make sure you’ve got enough beer brewed for whoever turns At least I thought he was passionate, that was before I met up. Ok not all breweries think this way but it’s what I’d do if I ran Steve Marston. Having never met him it was hard to pinpoint one and luckily it’s what Steve Marston decided to do earlier him down at first because rather than standing back overseeing this year. the day, as some head brewers might, he was in and around everywhere. He was chatting to people he clearly knew well, Situated on a business park on Bracebridge Heath I wasn’t sure welcoming people he didn’t, serving behind the bar, checking I’d be able to find this relatively small brewery as this was my first the food van was ok and generally keeping an eye on everyone visit. Luckily as I arrived there were flags flying to show me where to make sure they were having a good time. The fact that there I needed to be. As I followed my nose towards the whiff of BBQ were a stack of ImpAles as you walked in gave me hope that I noticed the benches full of people outside one of the units and he’d know who I was and gave me some confidence when I decided I was in the right place. The sun was out but the wind finally got to talk to him.
lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 15 To call him enthusiastic does him a disservice. From the moment Keeping an eye on quality is clearly an important factor in the I met him he had plenty to tell me about how the brewery was brewery’s development and one I was glad to hear expressed. set up, what it’s doing now and the various projects lined up for I’d previously talked to brewers who were worried or weary about the future. having to brew lots of different beers to open up certain markets. But for Steve the idea of coming up with new recipes and ideas was a joy; it wasn’t work, it was fun. In fact on more than one occasion he described brewing as “playing” or “having a play about”. That’s not to say he doesn’t put in the work. Many of the people there told me how he liked to get things right, to the point where he overhauled nearly the whole brewery 3 days before the BBQ because “he wants things right.” I admire a man who pays attention to the detail because he enjoys everything he does (apart from the bottle labelling apparently, but that seems fair enough).
This attention to detail doesn’t come from a lack of things to do either. As well as new brews there are always new venues and Steve didn’t strike me as The origins of the brewery are truely unique. Steve originally someone who let started the brewery in 2011 to produce a beer for his wedding. an opportunity pass Just Married was the flagship brew and produced just one 9 him by. Ribs ‘n’ Bibs gallon cask per brew in their small kitchen. But with a good were providing the beer under his belt, some clear talent and a very supportive new rather tasty food wife things quickly escalated from there. In May 2013, Cathedral (brewer’s tip – “try Heights moved from the small kitchen to a 1200 square foot the Churchill’s premises on the Churchill business park in Bracebridge Heath. Pride with the With help from family and friends Steve custom built a 2.5BBL pulled pork”) and brewery to significantly upscale the production and by June not without reason, 2013 the brewery was completed and production started. 5 Cathedral Heights different beers have been added since then to give them a had recently started reliable but varied core range. brewing a beer exclusively for them. By the time I met Put in touch by a him I had moved on mutual friend Steve from the core beers found out what and was starting they wanted and a pint of Artisan 2, immediate set to rightly described to work experimenting me as “blueberry with flavours. Maturing the first attempt in a Jack Daniels barrel pie in a glass.” Steve didn’t quite work but with some tweaking he’s produced the described the Artisan beer they were looking for, a pale ale which is dry hopped for range as a playground, 2 days. a chance to try and brew something a bit After supplying Ribs ‘n’ Bibs with bottled beers they’ve recently different. The original helped another Lincoln venue with their cask beer set up. The plan was a new brew newly opened Brewhaus not only needed beer but a way of every month but by the dispensing it. With plenty of bottled beers and keg already second in the series available Steve went in to help them with their real ale needs. that plan had already By supplying and installing the equipment for them he could changed. Firstly there ensure the product they served, i.e. his beer, was going to be was still some of at its best. Not that you’ll find solely Cathedral Heights ales on Artisan 1 left and there if you visit, with an ever growing network of connections with seemed no reason to launch a new beer when the there were other breweries Steve is able to swap his own beers for other still bottles of the first left to sell. Secondly the ‘one beer a month’ interesting brews and ensure and ever changing selection is model has been used by other breweries and there was the available. worry that you’ll end up putting out a beer that’s not ready simply to keep up with the monthly target. Not that he’s sitting back comfortably on the core range he has
16 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk at the moment. In addition to the Artisan range mentioned earlier he was currently experimenting with keg dispensing, producing very good results with their dark mild Devils Nightmare, as well as concocting a new beer for the upcoming East Midlands Chilli The Golden Eagle Festival. While some may have plumped for the first agreeable 21 High Street, Lincoln LN5 8BD taste they found I was beginning to see that wasn’t the way this brewery works. Not one to do things by half Steve was learning as much as he could all the different heats and flavours you can get from various different chilli types to try and add to his brew. And why not? It’s not like it’s extra work, it’s just more fun. Beautiful beer garden & great real ales
Plus look out for LINCOLN RED available only at the Golden Eagle
@GoldenEaglePub
www.castlerockbrewery.co.uk
BREWERS OF AWARD-WINNING HAND CRAFTED ENGLISH ALES
HENRIETTA HARLEY CAVENDISH RED FEATHER
PORTLAND BLACK
Welbeck Abbey Brewery T 01909 512 539 Latest News Brewery Yard E [email protected] Welbeck, Worksop W welbeckabbeybrewery.co.uk Nottinghamshire S80 3LT lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 17 FIND THE UNFINED!
Belgium and Czechoslovakia enjoying the sights and brews at every opportunity. German brewpub beers were all cloudy -- not just the wheats! They were also the freshest, most aromatic and boldly flavoured”. After returning to California, Justin continued to enjoy hazy beers as the micro brewing revolution was taking off. “No one in any of the countries I spent time in was concerned at all about clarity. It was just how things were. People didn’t hold a beer up to the light and send it back for being hazy. I would love to have seen someone try that in Germany! After moving to Britain and setting up his own brewery, Justin fined his beers as he thought no-one would buy them if they were cloudy. Sampling his unfined beers and finding it was better than the fined version being served at pubs, he realised that the finings were stripping his beer Beer! Eternally deserving of the ago, the ancient Greeks, Romans and of flavour. After successfully introducing exclamation mark. A gift from the Gods various ancestors who fancied a brew unfined beers at local pubs and beer which has been casting it’s spell for noticed that beer stored in animal and festivals, volume sales increased and he thousands of years, quenching thirsts, fish bladders was less cloudy than beer has never looked back. “Isinglass finings satisfying taste buds and providing stored in other vessels. When commercial drag down other flavour active particles pleasure for the great and good. An age brewing moved up a gear at the end of such as hop oils. But we want some of old alchemy, transforming malted barley, the 18th century, isinglass was routinely those haze forming particles in our beer. hops, yeast and water into something used. So how does it work? After being They add texture, visual impact, aroma magical. What’s your idea of a perfect dried naturally, the finings are cleaned, and flavour”. pint? Have you got a sweet spot for bitter? sterilised, organic acid such as citric, Other brewers agree and have equally Does mild drive you wild? Or is stout what malic or tartaric is added, sulphur dioxide compelling points to make. Chris it’s all about? Regardless of your regular is added as a preservative, then the Waplington from Bad Seed Brewery in order at the bar, do we all have the same mixture is diluted with water and stored Malton, thinks that wish list when it comes to our favourite for use when required. Isinglass is a form “natural unfiltered cask ale? Looks good – check, smells of collagen, a protein which is composed and unfined beer good – check, tastes good – check. This of positively charged molecules. As yeast tastes better. We tippler’s trinity will always hit the spot, molecules are negatively charged, apply believe people deliver refreshment and guarantee we the magnetic ‘opposites attract’ law and should assess the will be back for more. Speaking of more, the process makes sense with both sets qualities of a beer would you like a beer with more flavour, of molecules meshing together, forming based on it’s flavour more aroma and more character? As larger particles and clumping together rather than perceived clarity - especially strange as it seems, this can be achieved until gravity drags them to the bottom of when that clarity can be artificially induced. by leaving out a processing aid which is the barrel. The beer drops bright and is On a very simple level if you remove the not as well known as our familiar bona fide ready to serve. haze in a beer you are removing flavour. ingredients. For beer lovers everywhere, In some cases those flavours are caused the old cliché ‘less is more’ could actually In recent years, however, some brewers by yeast particles and are not desirable, be true! have been challenging the notion that beer should be clear and the praises of but they will drop out over time naturally Time to throw the spotlight on isinglass, ‘natural’, hazy and cloudy cask beers are if the cask is well managed. But in the friend or foe, depending on your being sung by an increasing number of case of haze from hops - we’ve spent a perspective. Isinglass is a substance satisfied punters. Justin Hawke, from Moor lot of time trying to impart these into the which is derived from the swim bladders Beer Company in Bristol, originally from beer, why would we then try and remove of fish, originally sturgeon but more California, fell in love with British pubs and them? On the subject of clarity, Phil commonly other species are used such real ale on a trip to the UK in the ‘80s and Saltonstall from Brass Castle Brewery in as catfish and threadfins, and it is used took advantage of a posting to Germany in Malton, thinks that “it is only the UK that to clarify beer and wine. A long time the early ‘90s by “driving around Germany, has this fascination with clear beer. The
18 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk rest of the world views haziness in beer also means that the brewer is ripping off more elusive nectar. Regardless of your as a sign of quality and natural process. the publican, to the tune of around two ethics, I would imagine that many people There is a natural inclination - although pints that the publican can’t sell. This rip- would question the use of isinglass, a nearly everyone who drinks cider appears off is therefore passed to the drinker in processed animal additive, which would to overcome it - to prefer to drink a clear increased pint to pint cost. Duty is paid seem to be the gatecrasher at a party fluid. That can readily be understood in on beer into the national coffers, but not where wholesome ingredients, malted a survival situation, where clean running on isinglass. In one of our casks, we barley, hops, yeast and water are surely spring water is more appealing than pay duty on the full contents, as almost the only welcome guests. Why remain a stagnant muddy puddle. But cloudy all the beer can be drunk. The isinglass entrenched over the expectation of a fruit drinks, for instance, are accepted brewer is therefore also paying less tax clear pint? It seems comical looking back as the better product on delicatessen to the government”. Justin Hawke adds, to earlier drinking days when punters, and supermarket shelves. And the same “for the brewer I’m sorry to say unfined including me, invariably would hold a pint is, of course, true for cider and perry”. beer will increase your cost, so by not to the light as if we were part of a crack Sue Morton, from Abbeydale Brewery in bulking out your beer with additives, you quality inspection team, giving a nod and Sheffield, believes that “the majority of our will marginally decrease your volumes, the ‘see through seal of approval’. Why customers, the majority of drinkers and which is a very worthwhile price to pay for tacitly accept the use of a product which, even the majority of CAMRA members better beer. It will initially take a bit more although providing clarity, contributes judge a beer’s quality on its clarity. “A effort to sell and educate your customers nothing to your beer, routinely robbing cloudy pint” is automatically a bad pint but you will develop better relationships it of the precious flavours, aromas and whatever it tastes like - perversely unless with them. And you’ll stop getting bogus depth of character created in the brewing it’s Belgian! It’s a bit like ‘a keg pint is a ullages for “hazy beer”. process? Why not be more adventurous bad pint’ - unless its Belgian, American, and welcome in these hazy and slightly German or indeed anything but British. From a purely selfish cloudy beers, challenging preconceptions Getting these messages through, that it is perspective, as a vegan, about how it is supposed to look and the provenance and quality of the product I am very supportive trusting in your taste buds? Even if you and what it tastes like, not what it is served and enthusiastic about still prefer a clear pint, fined and unfined from and looks like that’s important, is a unfined ales as it means beers will sit happily together in any pub, long slow process”. I can enjoy one of my creating more opportunities for head Cost is another factor as Phil Saltonstall favourite drinks. After to head taste comparisons and giving explains, “Isinglass is cheaper than beer. online research, we have enjoyed city drinkers a greater choice, which has got Brewers use up to two pints of it in a breaks in Glasgow, Liverpool, Nottingham to be a good thing from everyone’s point cask, therefore diluting the beer. Its use and Hastings, lured by the promise of this of view.
lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 19 Bottled Beer Review
The late Terry Pratchett based the plots of one his books, Nation, on a sub-clause written in the small print of the Magna Carta (although not necessary the one we all know and are celebrating). However his greatest works are surely his Discworld stories and we thought there was no better way to commemorate the great man that to toast him with a couple of brews all the way from Unseen University’s Boathouse Brewery.
Modo’s Midden Brewed by Dwarves and making the bold claim to “put foliage on your chest” this is a 4% Golden ale. It has a very strong, woody aroma that hits you as soon as you start pouring the bottle. The taste is very citric with a quite a strong lemon/ grapefruit flavour that leaves a bitter after taste. Very refreshing though and best enjoyed outside over the summer.
Hix’s Darkside Embracing his new status of evil professor John Hix has changed from a pale ale sort of chap and decided to embrace the darker brews. This is a very drinkable aged oatmeal stout. Full of malt it has a nice balance of the coffee, chocolate, caramel flavours which you’d expect from such a malty ale. It finally leaves you with a sweet taste in the mouth to finish.
“Nanny Ogg could see the future in the froth on a beer mug. It invariably showed that she was going to enjoy a refreshing drink.” Terry Pratchett, Maskerade
20 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk BEHIND BARS
ImpAle chats to a long-standing, local Two golf societies are based at The Anglers, and the pub also has darts, crib, pool and dominoes teams, all playing in local publican. leagues. You can play poker there, and there are karaoke nights, race nights and quizzes, usually run in aid of local charities. Last year over £800 was raised for St Barnabas hospice, and in the 22 years Mike has been manning the pumps, over £13,000 has been donated to the charity. This is in addition to a sponsored walk along the waterway from Saxilby to the Brayford Pool last year, organised by a regular of the pub, which raised £2,000 for an Alzheimers charity.
The lounge bar of The Anglers is a separate room, with a fascinating array of historic photographs on the walls. One of the most entertaining stories Mike relates is illustrated here too. A previous landlord, Ray Miles, during the big freeze of 1963/4, decided to drive a tractor along the frozen Fosse, from Drinsey Nook towards Lincoln. As he drove under the railway bridge, the ice turned out to be less robust and he and his tractor ended up in the freezing water. The pictures of this historic adventure include one of a dripping-wet Ray Miles, teeth still clenched around his pipe, clambering out of the icy canal.
Landlord Mike Brown has been running The Anglers for 22 The Anglers is years, and has been a resident of Saxilby for more than 60, so a drinkers pub has lots of interesting information to share. His friendly “locals’ which serves no local” is opposite the village hall on the High Street, and is one food, apart from an of the points of interest on a History Trail, details of which can occasional buffet be found on a leaflet available in the pub. The building dates to groups or parties from 1851 and was originally known as The Railway Hotel. It using the lounge had four bedrooms and the room numbers are still in place on for a function, such the doors upstairs. No en-suite facilities in those days, however, as a celebration or as there was only one bathroom. The name was changed to meeting. Regular The Anglers in the late nineteenth century because of a regular session ales are influx of fishermen from South Yorkshire, sometimes numbering Theakston’s Best as many as a thousand, who arrived by rail each weekend to and Deuchars IPA, compete in matches. and there are also two guest ales At one time the bar from a changing housed a magnificent selection. For well-behaved dogs there is a jar of treats on the 30-pound, stuffed pike bar. One discerning customer who failed to realise what the in a glass case, which jar contained, complained that the black ones didn’t taste very had been caught in nice..... so Mike added a second jar of boiled sweets for the 1964 by an angler humans. named D.L. Thackray, in the River Till at To reach the pub there are several options. There are hourly Broxholme. When train and bus services from Lincoln, access by boat via the Mike took over the Fosse Navigation, or you may prefer to walk or cycle along the pub, the previous Water Rail Way beside the aforementioned canal. The Anglers owner sold it to a is open daily from 11.30 a.m. until close. fishing tackle shop somewhere in Lincoln. Mike regrets the fact that this was the one that got away, would love to know where it is now, and also whether it could ever return to his bar.
The beamed main bar has an impressive display of trophies. lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 21 TravALE On the fringe of Lincoln Castle, where the Magna Carta is on display, there are many pubs worth visiting. Walking around the walls of the castle was Ashley Sewell, exploring what these pubs had to offer to city residents and visitors alike.
Strugglers, 83 Westgate Starting on a warm sunny lunchtime a wander up Steep Hill had given me a thirst for a nice pint of real ale and, on entering the Strugglers, I had no worries of not finding the beer I desired. Nine real ales from microbreweries far and wide, this small pub looked very cosy with hundreds of previous beer pumpclips Magna Carta, 1 Exchequer Gate adorning the main Entering the castle gate by the Vic, I wandered through the bar area, I can only imagine the Snug area is as stated! In the castle grounds to the far gate and out to Castle Square, with the shadows of the castle walls, I decide to take my pint of Brewsters Magna Carta pub straight ahead (well slightly to the right) of the Hophead into the gloriously floral garden to relish and savour. booming Cathedral`s West Front. Stepping up to the bar in this dark painted pub, the beer selection was clearly from Marstons Victoria, 6 Union Road group of breweries with five ales to choose from. I opted to stay Leaving the Strugglers front door and turning left around the downstairs, rather than sit in the upper level, and watch people corner, instantly you see the hanging red Batemans sign for The potter across the Castle Square from the windows. Victoria. This narrow long two roomed pub was nice and cool, away from the rays of the sun. Two Batemans, one Castle Rock and four guest beers left me spoilt for choice again. Choosing the Abbeydale Boadicea, I decide to sit inside and glance through a previous edition of ImpAle found by the bar.
Wig and Mitre, 30 Steep Hill Just a stone’s throw away from the Magna Carta pub was the Wig and Mitre, at the top of Steep Hill before the decent into the city. On walking through the main door I was distracted by
22 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk an American accent and a German speaking couple, proving that tourists do find and use this pub. The small bar located in the centre had four real ales to choose from, selecting the Oakham JHB was simple as it’s a favourite tipple of mine. I tried to go upstairs but discovered that it’s tight for a six foot man to manoeuvre around the low staircase so turned and headed for a window seat.
Widow Cullens Well, 29 Steep Hill Stepping next door to what was the old Wig and Mitre many moons ago, was the Window Cullen`s Well, the only Sam Smiths outlet in the city. A magnificent building with a stunning upstairs and a very modern toilet area at the back, situated next to the Well. It was the busiest pub so far, absolutely rammed in fact. Amongst all of the Sam Smiths keg products on display there was a solitary handpump with their Old Brewery Bitter displayed, so I choose the real ale. This beer seemed a bit too cool for my liking, even though the taste was nice. It did seem like many other customers had chosen their lager and stout. This was my final stop on a nice little wander through the historic heart of Lincoln which never fails to please.
Also in the Area
White Hart Hotel, 87 Bailgate Large hotel nearby Castle Square with its bar and restaurant inside, this usually has one real ale at the main bar area.
Tower Hotel, 38 Westgate North of the castle walls near Strugglers pub, this hotel has a spacious lounge bar offering 4 real ales, 2 guests.
lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 23 BREWERY · RRESTAURANTESTAU CAFÉ BAR
Pheasantry Pheasantry BREWERY BREWERY
Brewed in Nottinghamshire by Brewed in Nottinghamshire by The Pheasantry Brewery The Pheasantry Brewery
3.8% ABV 4% ABV 4.2% ABV
Pheasantry BREWERY BREWERY BREWERY
Black Peppermint Restaurant Gardens & space to play Brewery Tours
High Brecks Farm, Lincoln Rd, East Markham NG22 0SN Tel 01777 870572 Pheasantry www.pheasantrybrewery.co.uk BREWERY
24 ImpAle lincolncamra.org.uk Quiz If you’ve been paying attention to the events around Lincoln this summer then the following quiz should be straight forward enough. Below are 8 questions about Magna Carta (the document rather than the pub). Please send your answers along with your name and contact details to [email protected] or by post to ImpAle Quiz Issue 3 2015, 4 Squires Place, Nettleham, Lincoln, LN2 2WH. The closing date is 1st September and the editor’s decision is final. The winner will be announced in the next issue.
1. When was Magna Carta signed? 2. Where was Magna Carta signed? 3. How many of Magna Carta’s 63 clauses are still in use in British law today? 4. How many Barons have been placed around Lincoln this summer? 5. Which brewery has brewed a beer called “Law of the Land” to celebrate the occasion? 6. King John features prominently in the stories of Robin Hood. Which actor voiced the then Prince John in the Disney version of Robin Hood? 7. Which year was King John’s coronation? 8. Lincoln has one of the only surviving original copies of Magna Carta. Two are kept in the British Library. Which city has the only other original copy?
Last issue we asked you to name the four cities pictured featuring the previous copy of ImpAle. The answers were – Dubai Singapore Sydney York
Open Fire, Real Ales & Tasty Pub Grub • Weekly Guest Ales • Beer Garden • 6SULQJ6XPPHU 2SHQLQJ7LPHV Monday Openpp from 5pm • Tuesday y to Thursday: y 8am - 2.30pmpp & from 5pm Friday, Saturday & Sunday: Open all day from 12 noon lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 25 of Two Halves Fair dealA Campaign on beer tax now!
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26 ImpAle Banks and Building Societies may not accept Direct Debit Instructions for some types of account. lincolncamra.org.uk www.everards.co.uk @EverardsTiger facebook.com/everards lincolncamra.org.uk ImpAle 27 28 ImpAleAAle lincolnliincololncaccamraamrm a.o.org.ukorgg.uuk