sydneygrapevine ELISABETH KING

THE modern interpretation of Indian food was kick-started in London back in the 1980s and ’90s by mould-breaking restaurants such as Chutney Mary and The Club. Today’s resurgence of contemporary Indian is different and emanates from Indian chefs of the calibre of Gaggan Anand, But the paratha bread is reason enough to seriously rich person’s idea of modernity. whose namesake restaurant in Bangkok make a booking - flaky, crispy and easy to The Wilmot, 339 Pitt St, Sydney; phone became the first Indian restaurant anywhere gobble down quickly. From the curries and (02) 8027 8000. to make the top 20 on the San Pellegrino’s grill lineup, the bone marrow and Kashmiri Opened in December, Stambuli brings list of the world's top 100 restaurants. In lamb curry with and black cinnamon a slice of to trendy Enmore Rd. February, Rohit Khattar opened a New York was a textbook lesson in pairing and Yet another re-working of a building from outpost of Indian Accent, his rule-breaking presentation. It was tough to make a second yesteryear, the 1950s pink and purple New Delhi temple of “reimagined” Indian selection because the menu is so full of facade of the venerable Marie-Louise cuisine. The esteemed Abhi’s in Strathfield standouts such as Goan pork belly curry Hair Salon has been retained. Inside it’s has been keeping pace with the popularity to pan-flashed clams and mussels, Kerala a different design story from black and of contemporary Indian. But last year the coconut broth and brown rice. The deciding white tiled floors to marble tabletops and trend intensified with the opening of Bang vote went to 5-spice crusted barramundi, vintage wallpaper, courtesy of interiors and the now-closed Subcontinental. Dr string hoppers, turmeric and coconut wizard Sarah Doyle. The threesome Sam Prince, a well-known entrepreneur, molee, whose unctuousness matched its behind the project boast an awesome philanthropist and restaurateur, who created artwork appearance. You just know the pedigree - Ibrahim Kasif (ex Porteno) nearby Mejico and Zambrero in Canberra, gulab jamun here is not going to be heavy and Elvis Abrahanowicz and Joe Valore has nailed the constantly developing global dough balls swimming in a cloying syrup. (Continental, Mary’s, Bodega, LP’s Quality ethos at his latest venture, Indu. Located in Nope, out comes the lightest curd kneaded Meats). The double-storey restaurant a heritage-listed building in George St, the into springy rounds rolled in “coconut sand”. sports a more casual dining area, with basement premises once housed a branch In a nod to Western tastes, one of the most stools downstairs and regular tables of Dymocks. Any suggestion of a bookworm popular sweets are the watermelon and mint upstairs. No surprise that Kasif’s menu is hangout has been swept away by design iced lollies to soothe the palate and “aid a contemporary take on traditional Turkish maestros, Project Z, who have turned the digestion”. Indu is a must-do for anyone fare, from cold plates centred by subterranean space into a smart refuge who values Indian food’s metamorphosis , fish and vegetables to hot of brass bells, embroidered banquettes, from oily curries and fusion gourmet to truly meze platters of fried fish, and pan-fried open spice jars and a custom-made dosa elegant modernity. Indu, 350 George St, liver. The charcoal griddle is constantly bar. Cocktails are a major magnet for Sydney; phone (02) 9223 0158. packed, not with and skewers, but millennials and tables of 20-somethings The new Primus hotel is also ensconced with lamb cutlets, chicken, quail and whole were sipping expertly-blended mixes such in a heritage landmark building - the fish. Don't miss the seftali - lamb in as the Chennai Chiller, Liquid Yoga and former Sydney Water Board HQ. A five-star caul fat and a herb garden of . For Kerala Kolada on the night we dropped property redeveloped by the Chinese- an authentic touch, order Turkish , raki by. The wine list is no afterthought and owned Greenland International Hotels or Eres beer. Stambuli, 135 Enmore Rd, don’t be fooled by headings like Finesse Group, the spectacular lobby drips with Enmore; phone (02) 8624 3132. & Elegance and Fire Extinguishers. Quality Art Deco glamour from the eight red marble is the common thread from Jasper Hill columns to the skylight flooding the space Cornella Vineyard bottlings to Trimbach with light. The Wilmot is the hotel’s slick Reserve . Chef Bihal Kumar hinges signature restaurant, and chef Ryan Hong his menu on Sri Lankan and South Indian is pulling in the punters. Korean-born Hong flavours. It’s all about sharing, but don’t has worked at some of Sydney’s top name let your eyes get ahead of you, small and restaurants, including Rockpool Bar & Grill rich is the guiding tone. We started with and Black by Ezard. The clientele is a mix two selections - one from the coast and of corporates, foodies and international one from the village. Translation: cured tourists enjoying the plush comfort of sea bass, flamed chillies, coconut vinegar the hotel’s 172 luxury rooms. There’s an and crispy string hoppers, and sesame emphasis on NSW produce in the go-to rolled beetroot croquettes of hung yogurt, listings, ranging from sweetbreads, lamb green chilli, ginger and raita. They loin and barley through abalone and tasted extra good, knowing that Dr Prince seaweed risotto, beef tartare and Moreton has teamed with Palmera, an organisation Bay bugs with edamame and seasonal assisting village women in rural Sri Lanka. salads. Worth a visit for the decor alone - a Above & Top: Delicious food from Indu restaurant.

46 WINESTATE May/June 2016