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Service Buffalo Soldiers U.S. Department of the Interior Guardians of National Parks California

lthough African American soldiers A have fought in America’s wars since the Revolution, they were not permitted to enlist in the Regular Army until Reconstruction. By 1869, Congress had established four all-black regiments: the 9th and 10th Cavalry and the 24th and 25th Infantry. The soldiers of these regiments would become known as the Buffalo Soldiers. The salary, $13 per month, was low for the 1870s, but still paid better than the menial jobs commonly available to African Americans. Moreover, the military provided a dignity not typically afforded by civilian life.

How the Buffalo Soldiers In Cuba & the Philippines Cavalry encampment, likely en route to Sequoia National Park, 1903. Photograph from the collection of Charles Young. Got Their Name After the U.S. declared war Courtesy of the National Afro-American Museum and Cultural Center, Wilberforce, Ohio According to legend, Native Ameri- on Spain in 1898, Buffalo Sol- cans called the troopers “buffalo sol- dier troops went to Cuba. They The Army in the National Parks The Route to the Parks Meeting Locals diers” because their dark, curly hair fought in the Battle of San Juan Before the creation of the National Park Troops typically left for the parks in The Army’s arrival in town drew resembled a buffalo’s coat. The Native Hill alongside white regiments Service in 1916, the Army was respon- May and returned in November. For attention, and the years of the Buffalo Americans revered the buffalo for its and Theodore Roosevelt’s vol- sible for patrolling Yellowstone, Sequoia, each park, some 100 troopers and their Soldiers were no exception. In some fierce bravery and fighting spirit, so the unteer “Rough Riders.” The and Yosemite—our first national parks. officers paraded on horseback through communities, the very concept of the nickname can also be considered a sign Spanish-American War pre- They protected the lands for the enjoy- San Francisco, followed by mules and national parks was as foreign as the of respect. The soldiers accepted the sented a conflicted situa- ment of visitors and laid the foundations wagons. The journey would take them presence of the troopers themselves. title with pride and honor. tion for African American for the future national park system. down historic El Camino Real and However, despite any praise in print for soldiers, in which they Beginning in 1891, soldiers spent the across the Diablo Range to the San the “heroes of San Juan Hill,” residents Indian Wars fought on behalf of their Following the Civil War, the U.S. turned summer blazing trails, constructing Joaquin Valley and . The did not always transcend their personal country abroad yet lacked equal roads, creating maps, evicting grazing soldiers traveled about 280 miles over prejudices. The Buffalo Soldiers could its attention to developing the American rights at home. frontier. The Buffalo Soldiers fought in livestock, extinguishing fires, monitor- 13 days to get to Yosemite and 320 miles expect to face discrimination, inde- campaigns against native tribes, pursued After Spain’s defeat, an insurgent ing tourists, and keeping poachers and over 16 days to get to Sequoia. They pendent of their military status. loggers at bay. The soldiers’ expedition- camped near racetracks, roadhouses, bandits, improved roads, escorted the movement emerged in the U.S.-occu- Nonetheless, the soldiers made an ary frontier experience, as well as their and rivers. If they had leisure time, they mail, scouted and mapped. Their work pied Philippines. All four Buffalo impression that lasted beyond their sense of responsibility and service, lent patronized restaurants and saloons. to secure the frontier was performed in Soldier regiments participated in the brief stay. In December 1903, Captain itself toward duty in the parks. the face of hostile conditions, not only ensuing Philippine Insurrection. The Apart from San Francisco and San (later Colonel) Charles Young spoke in terms of extreme climates and terrain troops began to return in 1902, passing The Buffalo Soldiers patrolled the parks Jose, at this time at an assembly at Stanford University. but also significant racial tension. through San Francisco to their new during three summers, entrusted with was predominantly rural. The Santa Young was the third African American assignments, which included garrison the same duties as the units that pre- Clara and San Joaquin valleys began to graduate from West Point and the th Cover from left to right: 9 Cavalry duty at the Presidio and guard duty at ceded and followed them. In 1899, the as centers of Native American popula- highest ranking black officer in the Army in Yosemite, 1904. NPS; Unidentified Yosemite, Sequoia and 24th Infantry spent about a month in tions, and then experienced waves of at the time. He had traveled in the vicin- cavalry in forest. NPS; 9th Cavalry in (Kings Canyon) National Parks. Yosemite, 1903. Courtesy of the Nevelle Yosemite and Sequoia. In 1903 and 1904, Spanish settlement, the boom of the ity of the university earlier that year, en th th Hawkins Silliman Collection; Buffalo 9 Cavalry troopers were in the parks Gold Rush, and the growth of agri- route to Sequoia with the 9 Cavalry. His soldier on Road, Sequoia Member of the 24th Infantry on mounted for the entire summer, leaving from San culture. speech implored the students to extend 1903. Courtesy of the National Afro- patrol in Yosemite, 1899. NPS, Yosemite Francisco in 1903 and from the Presidio “the white man’s chance” for education American Museum and Cultural Center. Research Library. of Monterey the following year. to African Americans. Wilberforce, Ohio.

The Route Today

How does the Buffalo Soldiers’ Cali- ite headed through Raymond and fornia compare to the contemporary along what is now CA-41 N, entering landscape? For the Santa Clara Valley the park at Wawona. Those bound portion of the route, stops that were for Sequoia followed today’s CA-99 S once small, isolated towns are now and CA-198 E toward the Ash Moun- full-fledged cities with barely discern- tain Entrance. SAN FRANCISCO Yosemite ible borders. Today’s Silicon Valley is a For additional African American mili- site of freeways and sprawl, technol- tary history in California, visit Colonel ogy booms and busts, and popula- SAN Allensworth State Historic Park. tions growing rapidly in number and BRUNO 82 WAWONA diversity. However, the continued use Presidio of San Francisco El Camino Real of El Camino Real and the intact vis- 223 Halleck Street PALO Presidio of San Francisco, CA 94129 ALTO tas of the mountains and foothills 41 www.nps.gov/prsf maintain a link to the past. SAN JOSE CROOK’S Part of the soldiers’ trail is now the P.O. Box 577 101 RANCH RAYMOND . Otherwise, the Yosemite, CA 95389-0577 SAN LUIS Raymond Rd rest of their route has not changed www.nps.gov/yose HOUSE LOS BANOS as radically. The San Joaquin Valley 152 152 Sequoia/Kings Canyon National Park Road 600 GILROY remains the agricultural heart of the 47050 BELL DOS PALOS state, though it has witnessed signifi- Three Rivers, CA 93271-9700 STATION MADERA Kings 33 Canyon cant development of its urban areas. www.nps.gov/seki 101 Avenue 7 & 7½ The vastness of this landscape is just FIREBAUGH as the Buffalo Soldiers experienced it FRESNO over a hundred years ago, conveying MONTEREY SALINAS 99 a sense of history and place. 68 KINGSBURG The trail approximates historic El North Sequoia Camino Real from San Francisco to THREE RIVERS Gilroy, CA-152 E to Dos Palos, CA-33 VISALIA S to Firebaugh, and rural roads 198 to Madera. At Madera, the route 9th Cavalry Guidon. forked: troops destined for Yosem- rev. 08/15

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The Presidio of San Francisco

In the City A soldier’s life often included a dose of San Francisco culture. The Buffalo Soldiers socialized with the small but closely knit African American com- munity. For nightlife, troopers com- monly frequented the dancehalls and saloons along Pacific Avenue, the epi- center of the city’s infamous Barbary Coast. However, even in the popular black nightclubs, Buffalo Soldiers fell under additional scrutiny. Fights were a nightly phenomenon on the Barbary or 218 years, the Presidio served as an Coast, but the reporting of incidents Farmy post under Spanish, Mexican, involving African American soldiers and U.S. rule, during which its grounds

tended to stereotype them as armed 1199 were transformed from mostly empty and dangerous. windswept dunes and scrub to a verdant, preeminent military installation. Confrontations Among Soldiers Booker T. & Legacy at the Presidio NEL TUN NEL Conflicts among soldiers were not TUN Life on the Post Theodore Roosevelt Today, the San Francisco National TUN T NEULNNEL uncommon at the time, and racial TUTN UN NENLEL All four regiments tension was a part of the scene. News- In 1903, Buffalo Soldiers figured into Cemetery is the final resting place of passed through the Presidio during papers reported incidents including a the California visits of two promi- 450 Buffalo Soldiers. The headstones SAN FRANCISCO th NATIONAL the Philippine Insurrection. 9 Cav- MAIN POST streetcar brawl and fights that resulted nent Americans. In January, Booker overlooking the Golden Gate are quiet CEMETERY BARRACKS alry troops remained at the post until in police intervention. T. Washington addressed the soldiers reminders of the sacrifices and last- 1904—the first African American units at the Presidio, reminding them that ing contributions made by African to be part of the regular garrison. Gar- Americans, both to the parks and to they were not only fighters, but also EAST rison duty consisted of routine activi- role models and cultural ambassadors. American history. CANTONMENT ties like work details and guard mount. In May, Theodore Roosevelt The soldiers’ field days and mock bat- visited San Francisco. Two troops of tles drew crowds of civilian spectators. the 9th Cavalry led by Captain Charles Above: President Roosevelt’s 9th Cavalry Honor Guard, Presidio Golf Links, 1903. Sports, including football and the ever Young served as the President’s Escort NPS, Golden Gate National Recreation Area Park Archives popular baseball, were common rec- of Honor, accompanying him on horse- th Map: Buffalo Soldiers stayed in the East Cantonment in transit to and from the reations, and the 9 Cavalry baseball back through the city. This was the first Philippines. Troops on garrison duty lived in barracks on the Main Post and ran team was called the San Juans. Headline from the San Francisco Call, time African American troops were exercises on the Presidio Golf Course. Today, one can visit the National Cem- March 27, 1901. given this honorable role. etery and a Buffalo Soldiers exhibit at Fort Point.

Yosemite National Park

he sublime beauty of Yosemite’s Roosevelt & Muir Visit Yosemite Twaterfalls, cliffs, meadows, and After Theodore Roosevelt’s visit to San groves makes the park one of the Francisco in May 1903, his next stop most scenic places in the world. After was Yosemite, where he toured the val- Yosemite National Park was created ley and camped with naturalist John on October 1, 1890, the Army admin- Muir. During this historic meeting of istered the park from headquarters in the minds, 9th Cavalry troops acted as Camp A. E. Wood in Wawona. the President’s escort, guarding him as MONO he slept beneath the sequoias. LAKE Lost History HETCH HETCHY !@ RODGERS The first Buffalo Soldiers in the parks Protecting the National Park Idea RANGER STATION LAKE !@ 120 were from the 24th Infantry; they served Much was at stake for the Buffalo Sol- in 1899 and were the only infantry regi- diers. Many Californians, influenced BLOODY ment to ever do so. The troopers spent a by Manifest Destiny, were focused on CANYON month in Yosemite and Sequoia before settlement and expansion. To them, the SODA SPRINGS they were relieved by other units. Apart concept of a national park appeared 120 from one evocative photograph of the impractical, and the benefits of pre- 24th Infantry in Yosemite, no informa- serving such a large tract of land were YOSEMITE VALLEY tion on their experience in the parks not self-evident. Thus, when soldiers remains. guarded the parks they were not only Patrolling the Park protecting the land, but also upholding an idea. Meanwhile, the Buffalo Sol- 140 In the summer of 1903, Troops K and diers were placed in a situation in which L of the 9th Cavalry cared for Yosemite the authority inherent to their uniforms National Park. These were the first to could be undermined by racism. When establish permanent outposts instead they confronted white stockmen about WAWONA of continuously patrolling the park. trespassing livestock or seized weapons The soldiers removed sheep and cattle from potential poachers, race compli- brought to the park to graze, stocked cated the situation. fish in the lakes and streams, and 41 cleared overgrown trails. In 1904, the 9th Cavalry returned to Yosemite, Cavalry troops posed for photographs on the Fallen Monarch in Mariposa th Members of Troops C and D, 9 Cavalry on the Fallen Monarch, 1904. NPS, with similar tasks and an additional Grove. The Army’s early headquarters Camp A. E. Wood and the arboretum Yosemite Research Library were located in Wawona near today’s Wawona Campground. The Buffalo Sol- botanical project: in Wawona, the diers’ patrol posts lie inside and outside current park boundaries. troopers began work on an arboretum, now considered the first museum in a national park.

Sequoia & Kings Canyon National Parks

reated on September 25, 1890, improvements had lagged. Young’s men Envisioning the Park’s Future Left: The Booker T. CSequoia National Park is our built more road than in the last three Young also advocated for the park Washington and nation’s second national park. Today, years combined. This was also a dip- to acquire the privately-owned lands Colonel Charles Young 180 Tree are in Giant For- it and adjacent Kings Canyon National lomatic accomplishment given that a within its boundaries for the sake of r Park protect nearly half the remaining white crew completed the project while protecting the forest. He negotiated est along Road. The 1903 wagon “Big Tree” groves in the world. taking orders from African Americans. options for the government to pur- LODGEPOLE VISITOR CENTER road (orange) is now Upon completion of the road, nearby Of the three times the Buffalo Soldiers chase all of the properties at reason- sections of Crystal Cave communities rejoiced, and Young held were in Sequoia, one year stands out. able rates. This is another diplomatic Road, Generals Highway, a celebration for his soldiers and hon- In May 1903, Captain Charles Young accomplishment that makes that and Moro Rock Road. ored guests that included a grand feast, led Troops I and M of the 9th Cavalry summer an unprecedented example Lodgepole Visitor Center toasts, and musical entertainment. to Sequoia and the precursor to Kings of leadership. The Buffalo Soldiers’ includes a Buffalo Sol- diers display. Canyon, General Grant National Park. The Booker T. Washington Tree impact on the parks is reflected not only in their regular patrol responsi- It marked the first time a black officer Appreciative visitors and workmen bilities, but also the singular vision and 180 served as Acting Superintendent of a requested that a sequoia be named after drive of Charles Young. national park. Young. The captain declined and com- th GIANT Constructing Trails & Roads promised by dedicating a tree to, in his Although troops of the 9 Cavalry Portrait of Charles Young. NPS, words, “that great and good American, went to Sequoia and General Grant FOREST Among Young’s tasks was making the Sequoia National Park Archives. Booker T. Washington.” Over the cen- for the following summer, Young never park more accessible. Under his super- CHARLES YOUNG TREE tury, that tree had been lost to history. It returned to the parks. He would reflect ! vision, Buffalo Soldiers constructed a was reidentified in 2001 and rededicated on that summer as a time from which he trail to the top of , and BOOKER T. in 2003, during the centennial celebra- emerged “a different man with a better WASHINGTON a hired crew finished the first wagon TREE tion of Young’s superintendency. outlook.” In honor of Young and the road to Giant Forest. The Army had Buffalo Soldiers, the Colonel Charles MORO ROCK worked on the road every summer, but Young Tree was dedicated in 2004.

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