Wasatch Range Routes Overview Most Practical Multi-Pitch Solution

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Wasatch Range Routes Overview

Can be busy. Prepare for alternatives. Well protected or easy for the grade. Spicy for the grade.

The Answer 5.8 (Question Mark Wall, Lone Peak Cirque) The Answer is a slightly more sustained variation to the Lowe Route. Great choice if you feel like clipping bolts and want a break from crack climbing, or if The Lowe Route is busy. (Included on Lowe Route GearLoopTopo) 4 pitches 15 min from Cirque 2-4 hours Afternoon until sunset

Arm and Hammer 5.11c (5.10a A0) (Middle Bell Tower, Bells Canyon) This is an amazing route that shouldn’t be missed. The highlight on Arm and Hammer might be the famous “Zion Curtain” pitch, a spectacular thin flake hanging in the middle of a huge slab, but it has a lot more to offer than just that. 7 pitches 1-2 hours 4-6 hours Sun all day

Black Streak 5.10b (Devil’s Castle, Little Cottonwood Canyon) The Black Streak is a classic alpine route that is super fun, mostly bolted, and located in one of the most pristine areas of the Wasatch. Great place to climb when it’s too hot everywhere else. 6 pitches 20-40 minutes 4-6 hours Mostly shade

Center Thumb 5.9 (South Summit Wall, Lone Peak Cirque) The Center Thumb route links weaknesses and ascends crack systems shooting straight up the middle of a pillar formation in the heart of the Cirque. It is one of the best 5.9 routes in the Wasatch. 5 pitches 15 min from Cirque 3-4 hours Late morning to sunset

Doggystyle 5.10c (Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) Doggystyle is a fun new route that was put up in 2005. It’s a varied and enjoyable cruise up mostly well protected slabs, with the occasional flake and crack. (Included on Doggystyle & Sumatra GearLoopTopo) 4 pitches 15-20 minutes 2-3 hours Shade most of the day

East Dihedrals 5.6 (Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon) This moderate route follows the long and obvious right facing dihedral that goes almost to the top of the face. Combine with Steort’s Ridge and Jig’s Up for a full day. (Included on Steort’s Ridge GearLoopTopo) 2 pitches 5-10 minutes 1-2 hours Morning sun

Eleventh Hour 5.8 (Sundial Peak, Big Cottonwood Canyon) Eleventh Hour is one of the best moderate alpine routes in the Wasatch. It requires a relatively long approach, but offers great climbing in an amazing alpine setting. Expect killer exposure, tricky protection, and cool mountain views. 5 pitches 1½ -2½ hours 3-5 hours Mostly shade (PM sun on W face)

Horns of Satan 5.10b (Devil’s Castle, Little Cottonwood Canyon) Horns of Satan is a fun alpine climb located in the heart of Alta ski area. Mostly bolted, great position, and superb exposure on the 7th pitch makes this one a perfect outing on a hot summer day. 8 pitches 20-40 minutes 4-6 hours Mostly shade

For more information on classic cimbs in the Wasatch Range and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com For more information on classic climbs in the Wasatch Range and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com

Jig’s Up 5.6 (Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon) A great variation after climbing the first pitch of Steort’s Ridge. It mostly follows parallel sided cracks on clean rock. Great alternative if Steort’s Ridge is too busy. (Included on Steort’s Ridge GearLoopTopo) 2 pitches 5-10 minutes 1 hour Morning sun

Lowe Route 5.8 (Question Mark Wall, Lone Peak Cirque) The Lowe Route is an ultra classic climb, and a must-do if it’s your first time in the Cirque. It is certainly the best 5.8 in the cirque, and possibly the Wasatch. Superb crack climbing, remarkable exposure and a hard to beat top-out! 4 pitches 15 min from Cirque 2-4 hours Afternoon until sunset

The Open Book 5.7 (Summit Wall, Lone Peak Cirque) This is Lone Peak’s easiest route. It follows a long continuous corner and ascends flared cracks that can feel a bit awkward at times. The climbing is fun and varied, and remains fairly sustained throughout. 4 pitches 15 min from Cirque 3-5 hours Late morning to sunset

Outside Corner 5.7 (JHCOB Wall, Big Cottonwood Canyon) This varied climb has a super quick approach, comfy belays, and a straightforward descent. Very popular, it can feel a little spicy for the grade, with a few committing moves and big exposure for the grade. 4 pitches 5-10 minutes 2-3 hours Morning to afternoon

Pentapitch 5.8 (Pentapitch Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) Pentapitch is a Little Cottonwood classic moderate climb featuring mostly thin finger cracks and slabs on perfect, clean rock. The exciting last pitch is not to be missed, with its committing moves and great exposure! 5 pitches 15-20 minutes 2-4 hours Afternoon sun

Pika Paradise 5.8 (Question Mark Wall, Lone Peak Cirque) A short quality route located on the far right side of the Question Mark Wall ledge. It offers perfect hand jams in a long, continuous corner. Great alternative if the Lowe Route is busy, if the weather is uncertain, or to round-out your day (Included on Lowe Route GearLoopTopo) 1 pitches 15 min from Cirque 30 minutes Afternoon until sunset

Precious Lost 5.10a (Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) Precious Lost is a fun new adventurous route featuring several great slab sections, an ever-widening crack pitch, a roof crux, and an exposed finish over wild flakes. (Included on Precious Lost & Sumatra GearLoopTopo) 7 pitches 15-20 minutes 3-5 hours Shade most of the day

Schoolroom 5.6 (Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) Schoolroom is a very popular moderate climb with an old-school feel. It’s also a first multi-pitch lead for many aspiring trad climbers. The rock is solid, the pro is mostly good, and the belay ledges are comfortable. 5 pitches 10-15 minutes 2-3 hours Most of the day

Schoolroom West 5.7 (Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) Schoolroom West offers even more quality climbing than the standard Schoolroom. This is a great, fun route that offers a more direct and steeper line going straight up the buttress. (Included on Schoolroom GearLoopTopo) 3 pitches 10-15 minutes 1½-2 hours Most of the day

S-Crack 5.12a (5.8 C1) (The Thumb, Little Cottonwood Canyon) This LCC old school classic will take you directly up to the Upper Thumb routes. Although it is hard to free completely, it can be done as a 5.8 with a short bit of aid, and contains great chimney, crack and groove sections (Included on S-Crack to S-Direct GearLoopTopo) 4 pitches 20-30 minutes 2-3 hours Most of the day

S-Direct 5.9+R (The Thumb, Little Cottonwood Canyon) This route tackles the best slab section on the Upper Thumb. A must-do slab route on excellent rock offering tremendous exposure and position. (Included on S-Crack to S-Direct GearLoopTopo) 3 pitches 20-30 minutes 1-2 hours Most of the day

Second East Face 5.7 (JHCOB Wall, Big Cottonwood Canyon) This is a great little climb for the moderate leader. It has a lot of clean thin hands and finger cracks on perfect quartzite. If you liked the feeling and exposure of the arête pitch on Steort’s Ridge, you’ll love this route. (Included on Outside Corner GearLoopTopo) 3 pitches 5-10 minutes 1½ -2 hours Morning to afternoon

For more information on classic climbs in the Wasatch Range and other climbing areas visit www.GearLoopTopo.com

Spring Fever 5.10a (The Thumb, Little Cottonwood Canyon) Another great route on the Upper Thumb! While it is a rated a little harder than S-direct, it is better protected and the runout sections are on easy ground. Recently re-bolted too! (Included on S-Crack to S-Direct GearLoopTopo) 3 pitches 20-30 minutes 1-2 hours Most of the day

Standard Thumb 5.7 (The Thumb, Little Cottonwood Canyon) The Thumb is the biggest buttress in Little Cottonwood Canyon, and offers many possibilities and variations. This route follows chimney systems and slabs up to an amazing summit block, and is one of the longest routes in the canyon. 9 pitches 20-30 minutes 6-8 hours Most of the day

Steort’s Ridge 5.6 (Dead Snag Area, Big Cottonwood Canyon) This is a great area for beginner and low level trad climbers. It is the site of choice if you want to bring someone on their first multi-pitch climb, or if you want to lead your first multi-pitch trad route! 3 pitches 5-10 minutes 1-2 hours Morning sun

Stiffler’s Mom 5.11a (Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) This neo-classic is one of the best multi-pitch climbs in LCC. Stiffler’s Mom is a superb mix route that requires a wide variety of climbing styles. Expect fun technical slabs, sweet finger and hand cracks, cool arêtes and an exciting pumpy roof. 7 pitches 15-20 minutes 3-5 hours Mostly shade

Sumatra 5.10b (Coalpit Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) Sumatra is located just left of Precious Lost and actually shares the same great 1st pitch. It is another fun route that features excellent slab and dike climbing sections. (Included on Doggystyle & Sumatra GearLoopTopo) 4 pitches 15-20 minutes 2-3 hours Shade most of the day

Tingey’s Terror 5.7 (Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) A great route with a little bit of everything and many possible variations. Fun climbing on smooth slabs, finger cracks, and a few runout sections that will keep you focused. (Included on Tingey’s Terror and Torture GearLoopTopo) 4 pitches 10-15 minutes 2-3 hours Most of the day

Tingey’s Torture 5.8 (Gate Buttress, Little Cottonwood Canyon) This fine route continues up for 3 more pitches after climbing Tingey’s Terror. Many variations also exist on the upper pitches. (Included on Tingey’s Terror and Torture GearLoopTopo) 3 pitches 10-15 minutes 1-2 hours Most of the day

Triple Overhangs 5.10a (Summit Wall, Lone Peak Cirque) Triple Overhangs is a fantastic route that follows cracks and corners up to a series of three roofs on the 4th pitch. These roofs provide amazing exposure and exquisite position on perfect granite. (Included on Triple Overhangs & Vertical Smile GearLoopTopo) 5 pitches 15 min from Cirque 3-4 hours Late morning to sunset

Vertical Smile 5.10a (Summit Wall, Lone Peak Cirque) This is a quality, full value route that shouldn’t be missed if you’re visiting the Cirque. Although rated 5.10a like Triple Overhang, it is more committing, with technical stemming, thin pro, and can feel slightly runout in sections. (Included on Triple Overhangs & Vertical Smile Gear- LoopTopo) 5 pitches 15 min from Cirque 3-4 hours Late morning to sunset

West Slabs 5.5 (Mount Olympus) The West Slabs are located on Mount Olympus, an impressive peak just above Salt Lake City. This climb takes the center of the huge face and provides one of the longest moderate adventures found in the Wasatch. 9 pitches 1 hour 3-5 hours Afternoon until sunset