BLUESTAR BUYS LIZ LANGE/2 MAGS 2007 AD PAGE NUMBERS/13 Women’sWWD Wear Daily • The Retailers’ DailyFRIDAY Newspaper • November 16, 2007 • $2.00 Beauty Young at Heart With its new patent-pending “youth molecule,” Estée Lauder has come up with the latest weapon in the battle against aging. The new ingredient, Resveratrate, powers Ultimate Youth Creme, the most recent addition to Lauder’s venerable Re-Nutriv franchise. Sources estimate that it could do $7 million at retail in its fi rst year on counter. For more, see page 6.

More Warning Bells: Penney’s, Kohl’s Add to Holiday Anxiety By Arthur Zaczkiewicz gross margin rates, J.C. Penney trends, J.C. Penney lowered its acroeconomic forces Co. Inc. posted a 9.1 percent decline fourth-quarter earnings outlook Mare taking a big toll on in third-quarter earnings on softer and Kohl’s dropped its full-year

Y MEGAN MCINTYRE consumers, with J.C. Penney and sales, while Kohl’s Corp. delivered earnings per share estimate. This Kohl’s being the latest victims of a third-quarter profits that fell 13.6 followed prior warnings from weaker spending environment. percent, but on higher sales. Macy’s Inc., Polo Ralph Lauren Hampered by softer sales and Due to the lackluster sales See Penney’s, Page 12 PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO; STYLED B PHOTO BY 2 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 WWD.COM Liz Lange Sold to Bluestar By Vicki M. Young signer maternity line. Industry sources estimate WWDFRIDAY and Lisa Lockwood Lange’s business generates $200 Beauty million in revenues, includ- NEW YORK — Liz Lange, the ing licensees. The designer has GENERAL 10-year-old designer maternity been eager to strike a deal with Macroeconomic forces are taking their toll on consumer spending, with J.C. company, has a new parent. a private equity fi rm for several Penney and Kohl’s the latest victims of a weaker spending environment. The company was sold years to aggressively expand 1 Thursday night to Bluestar both her product line and free- Nike has signed a defi nitive agreement to sell Starter, its licensed league Alliance for an estimated $50 standing stores. Sources said 4 apparel division, to Iconix Brand Group for $60 million in cash. to $60 million, industry sources Lange plans to close her existing Jennifer Lopez and Yamamay have forged a licensing pact to launch a said. stores in the fi rst half of 2008, high-end intimates line. Bluestar, led by Ralph Gindi and re-open in new locations 5 and Joey Gabbay, recently pur- later in the year and in 2009 BEAUTY: Kate Winslet talks openly about her role as the face of chased Ron Chereskin, the men’s with expanded product assort- 7 Lancôme’s venerable Trésor franchise. apparel brand. Bluestar also ments for mothers and babies. My Voyage for Her, Nautica’s new fragrance, sets sail at Dillard’s, with owns Wellington Capital Group, She also expects to branch into other stores to follow in January. where Gabbay is president. women’s ready-to-wear. 10 Wellington last year acquired The author of “Liz Lange’s Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 the Harvé Benard brand. Maternity Style: How to Look Neither Liz Lange nor Fabulous During the Most To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Bluestar executives could be Fashion-Challenged Time,” [email protected], using the individual’s name. reached for comment. Lange also has collaborated WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT Lange, who started her fi rm with Nikon on a limited edition ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. in 1997 offering stylish, well- Liz Lange camera. VOLUME 194, NO. 106. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one made maternity clothes, struck In a speech last year to the additional issue in January and December, two additional issues in March, May, June, August, October and, November, and three additional issues in February, April, and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance a chord with celebrities such fashion industry, Lange recalled Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by as Gwyneth Paltrow and Sarah that she faced opposition from Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Jessica Parker, as well as regu- retailers in launching her busi- Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human lar moms. The company oper- ness. One told her women didn’t Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return ates three freestanding stores care about their appearance undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: on Madison Avenue here, North Liz Lange during pregnancy because it SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA Beverly Drive in Beverly Hills only lasted nine months. 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE and in Greenvale, N.Y. It also The next year, she signed an ex- “No matter what anyone says, INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new has an e-commerce Web site. clusive agreement with Target if you think you have a good subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production In 2001, Lange joined with Corp. for a less-expensive ma- idea, you probably do…don’t let correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, Nike to produce an exclusive ternity line while continuing anyone tell you it can’t be done,” please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other line of maternity athletic wear. upscale distribution of her de- she told the group. Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CFDA Fund Awards Rogan Gregory Top Prize CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY By Marc Karimzadeh business mentors. Runners-up include Derek Lam A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. The winners were announced and Thom Browne, Rodarte’s NEW YORK — Three up-and- Thursday at the 7th on Sale gala Laura and Kate Mulleavy and coming designers just got a sub- in the 69th Regiment Armory Thakoon Panichgul for Thakoon. stantial boost. here, which benefi ted the CFDA/ The finalists, whittled Quote of the Week Rogan Gregory of Rogan Vogue Initiative for HIV/AIDS. down from 101 applica- has received the CFDA/Vogue This is the fourth edition of the tions, were: Scott Sternberg Fashion Fund Award, pocketing fund, which has grown to be- of Band of Outsiders, Erin $200,000 and a year of mentoring come a key facilitator of careers Fetherston, Gabriel Asfour, “For 45 years, everyone thinks I love from an industry executive. The in fashion design. Angela Donhauser and Adi runners-up were Phillip Lim of The previous winners are Gil of Threeasfour, Nunthirat parties and to go out. It’s all wrong. I 3.1 Phillip Lim and jewelry de- Doo-Ri Chung, Trovata and Koi Suwannagate of Koi, Lisa signer Philip Crangi, who each Proenza Schouler’s Lazaro Mayock and Sophie Buhai of love to stay home.’’ will receive $50,000, as well as Hernandez and Jack McCollough. Vena Cava, Michael Bastian and Victoria Bartlett of VPL. — Valentino The selection committee con- sisted of CFDA president Diane von Furstenberg, executive di- rector Steven Kolb and associ- ate director Lisa Smilor; Vogue In Brief editor in chief Anna Wintour and fashion news director Sally ● PANEL WARNS ON CHINA TRADE: The U.S.-China Singer; Barneys New York vice Economic and Security Review Commission, a congressional president and fashion direc- advisory panel, said in a report Thursday that China’s trade tor Julie Gilhart; Jeffrey presi- relationship with the U.S. is “severely out of balance.” Among dent Jeffrey Kalinsky; Theory the 42 recommendations: Congress should enact legislation president and founder Andrew imposing punitive duties on Chinese imports through U.S. Rosen; Coach president and ex- trade remedy law; the Bush administration should bring a ecutive creative director Reed World Trade Organization case against China for manipulat- Krakoff, and Gap executive ing its currency, and requiring U.S. companies to report to the vice president of design Patrick Commerce Department their receipt of any economic subsidy Robinson. from China. Starting this year, the CFDA/ Vogue Fashion Fund’s Business ● KELLWOOD PROMOTES POWERS: Kellwood Co. has named Advisory Committee will pro- Stephen F. Powers, president and chief executive offi cer of vide mentorship and support the Koret division, as chief customer offi cer of its Lifestyle to all fi nalists. The committee Alliance. This is a new position for the new division of the $1.6 includes Calvin Klein Inc. presi- billion vendor’s mainstream brands that includes Sag Harbor, dent and chief operating offi cer Koret and Briggs New York. In addition to working with re- Tom Murry, NRDC president tailers, Powers will be responsible for Koret and Sag Harbor Richard Baker, Cole Haan chief stores. Before joining Kellwood in 2005, Powers served as exec- executive offi cer James Seuss, utive vice president of women’s apparel for May Merchandising Diane von Furstenberg chief fi - Corp., and served in various senior management positions in nancial offi cer Paul Aberasturi the women’s business within May Co. from 1980 to 2003. Based and Liz Claiborne Inc. execu- in Oakland, Calif., Powers will report to Patrick J. Burns, group tive vice president of partnered president of the Lifestyle Alliance. brands David McTague. The fund is underwritten ● CHEAP CHIC GAINS: Hennes & Mauritz reported sales in by Barneys New York, Coach, October accelerated 15 percent as the company opened more Juicy Couture, Kellwood Co., stores. The Swedish fast-fashion giant said same-store sales in Nordstrom, Theory and Vogue. the month gained 3 percent. H&M is banking on a one-off col- An inside glimpse of the laboration with Roberto Cavalli, which it launched Nov. 8, to 10 finalists can be viewed on boost sales this month. ShopVogue.com, beginning today. Shop now at esteelauder.com © 2007 Estée Lauder Inc. Protective Recovery Complex Advanced NightRepair This littlebrown bottleholdsthefutureofyour skin. skin thatstandsthetestoftime. Think ofitas“insurance” for natural protectants. and lipidstohelpreplenishskin’s a rich reserve ofanti-oxidants daily visibleirritationandbuilds to lookprematurely aged.Soothes before theycancause your skin to 90%ofenvironmental irritants for itswell-being.Neutralizes up natural repairresponse–critical it significantlyheightens skin’s For every woman, every night, our agingenvironment. damaged by dailyexposureto repair theappearance ofskin every night,you reallycanhelp Now, withjust a fewdropsapplied powers ofthispatented*formula. can attesttotheremarkable Women aroundtheworld *U.S. patented.Internationalpatentspending. NOTICE 4 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 WWD.COM 3i Buys Agent Provocateur, Iconix, Nike Cut $60M Deal for Starter By Lisa Lockwood NEW YORK — Iconix Brand Group is deepening its ties to Wal-Mart. Brand Gears Up for Growth On Thursday, the company said it had entered a defi nitive agreement to purchase the Starter brand from Nike Inc. for $60 million in cash. The deal is expected to close By Nina Jones next month. Starter, which began in 1971, is known for its branded and licensed league ap- LONDON — Agent Provocateur is planning an international retail rollout concen- parel, and currently has licensed several manufacturers and wholesalers that sell trated in the U.S. and Asia with a fresh cash injection from new investors 3i. primarily to Wal-Mart in the U.S., Canada and Mexico. On Thursday, 3i said it had acquired a majority stake in the high-end lin- Nike bought the Starter properties in August 2004 for $43 million as part of a plan gerie company for an estimated 60 million pounds, or $123 million at current to tap into the mass channel. Starter became part of Nike’s Exeter Brands Group, exchange. which also includes Shaq/Dunkman and Tailwind, and generates about $40 million “The company has a fantastic reputation and is already well established in in wholesale and licensed revenues. Starter accounts for the bulk of the sales. In the Europe…[and] we believe there is enormous potential for the business to grow,” past year, Nike pulled back its Starter footwear, and focused more on apparel. said Jennifer Dunstan, of 3i partner buyouts. Nike will continue to manage the Shaq business until the master license ex- Joseph Corre and Serena Rees, who founded the racy lingerie brand 13 years pires in September, and Nike has mutually agreed with Payless not to continue the ago, will continue to hold minority stakes in the company. Corre, who is Vivienne Tailwind business beyond spring, according to a Nike spokesman. Westwood’s son, will stay on as creative director of Agent Provocateur. A spokes- Nike said it decided to sell Starter since it had less growth prospects than its other woman for the company said Rees will leave “to pursue new opportunities.” The subsidiaries, such as Converse, Cole Haan, Hurley and Nike Golf. two founded the company when they were married, but have since split. Iconix, which is headed by Neil Cole, chairman and chief executive offi cer, fore- The investment fund has appointed Stuart Rose, chairman of The Hamleys casts that Starter’s 2008 royalty revenue will be about $18 million worldwide. Cole Group and a former deputy chairman of The Body Shop, as chairman of the pointed out that the acquisition of Starter diversifi es Iconix’s portfolio into athletic brand. (He is not related to Stuart Rose, chief executive of Marks & Spencer plc). apparel, team sports and athletic footwear. He said the company is working on a mul- Garry Hogarth, a former consultant at the fi rm, has been named ceo. tifaceted strategy, including signing several major professional sports fi gures. “For the past 14 years, we’ve grown very organically,” Corre told WWD. “We Dottie Mattison, senior vice president and general merchandise manager for Wal- then got to the size and scale where we needed to springboard. Because of 3i’s size, Mart, said in a statement, “Our customers have responded very positively to our athletic they’re able to have more apparel and footwear brands at value price points. Starter is one of our most powerful fl exibility with their in- brands, both in terms of its heritage and the range of different categories it covers.” vestments, and they have Among Iconix’s holdings are Danskin Now and OP, both of which are licensed a strong [international] to Wal-Mart. network, that can help us in a practical way.” Corre added that ter- ritories such as Japan were high on the compa- ny’s expansion agenda. Swarovski, Doroff Honored as Visionaries “The whole psyche has changed there in the past NEW YORK — After years of champion- 14 years — lingerie used ing fashion designers and artists, Nadja to be sold there by peo- Swarovski and Frank Doroff were hon- Looks ple doing private home ored Wednesday by the Museum of Arts & from Agent sales,” he said. Design here with its Visionaries! Awards. Provocateur. Since Agent Provocateur Dutch designer Marcel Wanders and opened its first boudoir- entrepreneur Ella Fontanals-Cisneros inspired store in London’s also received awards at the museum’s Soho in 1994, fi lled with silk and lace lingerie, 14th annual gala at Pier Sixty, which garter belts and silk stockings, it’s become a was attended by 750 people and raised byword for risqué glamour. Kate Moss, Kylie $1.7 million. Minogue, Maggie Gyllenhaal and Catherine The museum, formerly known as the Bailey have all appeared in its advertising American Craft Museum, is sprucing campaigns. The company currently has 35 up its image and plans to move into a Marcel stand-alone stores and shop-in-shop units in new home at 2 Columbus Circle here in Wanders the U.K., the U.S., Asia, Europe and the Middle September. and Nanine East. According to industry sources, the brand’s Swarovski, vice president of interna- Linning sales in its latest fi scal year to 2007 were about tional communications for the crystal with his 25 million pounds, or $51 million. business that bears her family’s name, said work. “It’s quite a small brand that’s been punch- that when she heard news of the award, “I ing above its weight,” said George Wallace, thought, ‘My gosh, is it even deserved?’ I ceo of retail analysts MHE Retail. “In terms live vicariously through designers who are discovering talent inextricably links the of the scale of the company, it’s not that big, doing so much amazing work.” fashion industry and the art industry.” but the image and awareness of the brand The honoree, whose mother, Danna, Wanders’ appearance in Gap’s fall ad- are massive. It’s a very valuable brand that’s and grandfather, Robert Strieter, at- vertising campaign supported that idea. a long way from realizing its potential.” tended the festivities, had some fun at But the designer said he has not been Wallace added that 3i’s “fi nancial re- one guest’s expense. With a baby due in swept away by the exposure. “We get sources and potential strategic input” made March, Swarovski pulled a poker face requests regularly, but I’m trying to be the two companies a good match. and responded, “No,” when asked if she a designer. This was really cool photog- Meanwhile, Maureen Hinton, lead ana- was pregnant. raphy and of course I thought it would lyst at Verdict Research, said that Rees’ departure wouldn’t adversely affect the In terms of business additions, be great fun, so why not? But it is not my brand. “I don’t think it’s an issue,” said Hinton. “Apart from those in the know, the Swarovski plans to continue with its de- intention to become a model.” brand isn’t really associated with a designer.” signer collaborations. He will, however, be the host of a new Doroff, senior executive vice presi- design-lifestyle program on the BBC set dent and general merchandise manager to make its debut next fall. Collaborations of Bloomingdale’s, described himself as with “a very important jewelry company “more the guy who likes to stay in the back- in the U.S. and a makeup company” are Joyce Shares on Hold After Filing ground.” He said the retailer will continue also in the works, he said. to fasten its ties to the art world — some- “I’m in a serious business….To get a By Constance Haisma-Kwok thing Bloomingdale’s did through its fall prize in New York from the American advertising — but declined to elaborate. people is kind of important to me,” HONG KONG — Trading in shares of Joyce Boutique Holdings Ltd. was sus- In general, the worlds of fashion and Wanders said. pended Thursday pending announcement of a proposed privatization plan, art will only get closer, he said. “I think — Rosemary Feitelberg according to documents filed with the Hong Kong Stock Exchange. The move came one day after the Ma family revealed their resignations Frank from the company, effective Monday. The action, by Wheelock & Co. chairman Doroff Peter Woo, who controls 52 percent of the company (compared with the Ma family’s holding of 23 percent), has been directly linked to lackluster sales at the luxury retailer. Joyce’s net profi t for the year to March dropped 31.1 percent to 51 million Hong Kong dollars, or $6.5 million, from 74 million Hong Kong dollars, or $9.5 million, last year. Sales grew 4.6 percent to 790.4 million Hong Kong dollars, or $101.5 million. The company has attributed its fi nancial diffi culties to ris- ing rents and the strong euro. Shares of Joyce Boutique Holdings had risen 13.8 percent earlier in the year but dropped to 37 Hong Kong cents, or 5 cents, before trading was suspended. Nadja Swarovski fl anked In 1999 Woo took then loss-making Lane Crawford private in a similar by her grandfather, Robert Art Reiner and move. At the time, Lane Crawford reported an operating loss of 54.5 million Strieter, and mother, Danna. Michael Gould Hong Kong dollars, or $7 million, for the fi rst half of the year. PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 5 WWD.COM Miele Opens First Shop in Europe L’Oréal Purchases Canan PARIS — L’Oréal has inked a deal to acquire Turkish hair care com- By Emilie Marsh store,” added Miele. pany Canan, the French beauty giant announced Thursday. Spread over two fl oors and 750 square feet, Istanbul-based Canan ranks fourth among mass market hair care PARIS — Carlos Miele hopes to attract many the boutique’s glossy white walls, ovular mir- brands in Turkey, generating sales of 26 million euros, or $32.6 mil- bees to his fashion hive here. rored pillars and organic sculptures create a lion at average exchange, last year, mostly through its Ipek hair care Miele, whose name translates from French liquid-like feel, which serves as backdrop for brand, according to L’Oréal. or Italian as “honey,” inaugurated his debut Miele’s creations. The brand’s signature collec- “The Turkish cosmetics market is expanding strongly and has European boutique at 380 Rue Saint-Honoré on tion is housed on the ground fl oor, while a diffu- a very large growth potential,” said Patrick Rabain, president of Wednesday. sion line is on display upstairs. L’Oréal’s consumer products division, in a statement. “Paris is the most important fashion capital Miele, who said he had his eyes on London “The acquisition will bolster our positions in hair care products, in the world,” said the the largest segment in the market,” Rabain continued. “With its Brazilian designer, whose A view of the new Carlos Miele store in Paris. commercial dynamism and its extensive presence in retailing chan- retail neighbors include nels, Canan will also accelerate the development of the division’s John Galliano, Chanel and other brands.” Audemars-Piguet. “It’s an The acquisition comprises Canan Kosmetik, which manufactures anthropological adventure Ipek hair, body, skin and baby care products as well as Parmex nail for a Brazilian designer polish remover; Canan Pazarlama, and Seda Plastik, an affi liate to deepen his knowledge company that produces Canan’s plastic packaging. of such different cities as Canan will be consolidated when the transaction becomes Paris and New York.” fi nal following customary governmental review, including anti- For the Paris store, trust clearance. Miele called on architect — Ellen Groves Hani Rashid, whose de- sign of Miele’s store in Manhattan’s Meatpacking District won “store of the year” award from the J.Lo Enters Innerwear Market International Biennial of MILAN — Jennifer Lopez and inner- Architecture and Design. wear brand Yamamay have become “The design of the new intimate partners. Paris fl agship was inspired Through the celeb’s Sweetface

by a combination of infl u- DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY Fashion Co., Lopez has signed a three- ences, including Brazilian year licensing pact with Inticom Spa, Expressionist modern architecture, the French and Milan for his next European openings, said an Italian lingerie and swimwear man- Baroque and Parisian Art Nouveau, all tempered he expects the store to register sales of about $2 ufacturer, to launch a high-end inner- by the precision inherent in new technological million in its fi rst year. With the fl agship launch wear line called JLO for Yamamay. means of manufacture and design,” said Rashid. and 20 freestanding Miele store openings sched- Inticom is the parent company of “Hani Rashid and I worked together to devel- uled for next year, the designer expects sales to Yamamay, an edgy and inexpensive op more of an art space than a traditional retail more than triple to $25 million. brand that has grown exponentially since it was launched six years ago. The collection was launched JenniferJennifer LopezLopez Thursday at Yamamay’s 500 stores Monaco for the 2008 Formula One race, a helicopter worldwide and at 30 European out- ride from Monaco to Provence, France, for private posts of the JLO Lifestyle Store. It also will be available on the Fashion Scoops lessons from the professionals at the Circuit Paul Web site yamamay.com. Ricard racetrack, plus accommodations and travel. Infused with Latino sensuality, the collection targets con- DIOR CRUISIN’: Dior made its annual Cruise stop in Los The fi ve cars, produced exclusively for Saks, sumers with a lineup of matching sets, corsets and at-home Angeles this week with back-to-back in-store events feature a crystal palladium gray exterior, a copper, wear. Some 350,000 pieces were produced for the fi rst col- in its Rodeo Drive boutique. On Tuesday, along with silver arrow leather interior and drew design lection. First-year sales are estimated at $10 million, said C magazine, the company hosted a lunch for Step inspiration for a race-car theme from an illustration Gianluigi Cimmino, chief executive offi cer at Inticom. Up Women’s Network for which the unoffi cial dress by a child at St. Jude’s — one of several children’s “This is a dream come true for us. Many women identify code was white. “I didn’t get the memo,” one of the pictures that prompted the offer of fi ve over-the-top themselves with Lopez because she is a more reachable role many black-clad guests remarked. But singletons gifts in the Saks catalogue “Snow or Never.” model compared to skinny models. This line was conceived for Jamie Tisch and Shiva Rose McDermott did, most likely “I was absolutely fl oored,” Terron Schaefer, group special occasions,” said Cimmino. tipped off by white-clad Katherine Ross. The next night senior vice president of creative and marketing at Most pieces feature intricate pleating, sensual cuts and rhine- was a fete for Dior’s 60th Anniversary tome, hosted Saks Fifth Avenue, said of the speed at which the stone and stone detailing on silk satin, silk georgette, tulle and che- by the Los Angeles County Museum of Art Costume Mercedes-Benz convertibles were snapped up. And nille. The color palette includes black, red, silver and electric blue. Council. Instead of the usual fashion plates, photo-shy they’re due to be delivered by Christmas Day. Retail prices range from $14 for a thong to $46 for bra-and-panty philanthropists like Rosalind and Hal Millstone mingled sets, and $86 for a chenille tracksuit with stone decorations. with models. McHUSBAND: Liz Claiborne Inc. executives met in Kate Since Cimmino and Rita Garda di Samarate founded Inticom Spade’s SoHo store Thursday morning, welcoming in 2001, the company has grown rapidly, with 2007 sales of $146 SCENT OF EVE: R&B star Eve was on hand at Deborah Lloyd in as the power brand’s new creative million, a 30 percent hike over last year. Thursday’s celebration for the MAC AIDS Foundation, director. But Claiborne chief executive offi cer William — Alessandra Ilari which has raised $100 million to help fi ght HIV and L. McComb couldn’t help mixing business with AIDS around the world. Eve made a guest appearance pleasure. “I can’t go to one of our stores without at MAC’s Upper West Side store with fellow Viva Glam picking up gifts for my wife,” McComb said, nodding spokeswoman Dita Von Teese and said her own scent at the three giant Kate Spade shopping bags he toted Gala Fetes Montblanc Pen is in the works. “I can’t wait to do a fragrance. I’m out of the store. sure it will happen soon,” said Eve. “I not only want MILAN — With a bash for 300 monds and rubies, assembled to to meet the nose, but I want to be the nose. I want WHAT’S IN A NAME: Tinsley Mortimer’s friends were guests, Prince Albert II feted the replicate the red and white to be that person who’s in there putting stuff in the represented in both body and bag at the Samantha launch of Montblanc’s limited edi- lozenges on the shield of the little bottles. I’m obsessed with smells.” Although Thavasa luncheon last week that celebrated the tion fountain pen in honor of his Grimaldi coat of arms. she doesn’t know quite yet the overall theme of her socialite-cum-designer’s fi rst year with the Japanese late father, Prince Rainier III. The grid pattern was ob- fi rst fragrance, she already has an idea what it will company. “I named all of my handbags after my At Monte Carlo’s Sporting Club tained with 996 diamonds and smell like: “I’m a fl oral person. I like something not friends,” said Mortimer, clad in a look from her on Thursday night, the prince 92 rubies, while a mother-of- too heavy, but something that lasts.” Von Teese isn’t upcoming ready-to-wear line with the fi rm. “I have welcomed guests including pearl Montblanc star crowns working on a fragrance but has a new beauty book the Eleanor, the Lauren, the Fabiola — and I am so Sophie Dahl, Helena Christensen, the cap. planned for release late next year. “I wanted a rule- nervous because all the girls are going to see their bags actress Eva Green and actor The precious writing instru- breaking beauty book that’s about retro for the fi rst time today and I hope they like Christopher Lee. Lyrical singer ment costs $293,000. Five pens glamour and eccentric makeup — a book them.” And for those afraid about looking Katherine Jenkins performed to were snapped up at the party that teaches you how to put it on,” said like Ylvisaker or Beracasa, Mortimer added, the notes of renowned Chinese by deep-pocketed guests, none Von Teese. “But I didn’t design the bags based on their pianist Lang Lang. of whom were revealed. The re- individual style, I just used their names.” “Without any doubt, my fa- maining 76 can be ordered at HEY BIG SPENDERS: Five individuals with Flanked by her fellow gals about town ther would have appreciated Montblanc boutiques worldwide. bucks to burn peeled off a total of $2.7 along with Samantha Thavasa director of this object of rare quality. By Fifty-one percent of the sales million in three minutes fl at to buy fi ve of business operations Tobias Buschmann, acquiring this unique creation, will be channeled into the fi rst-ever Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Mortimer hosted the affair and shopping you share the values of the prin- the Princess Grace Roadster convertibles. Their route? A event in the John Jacob Astor Library at cipality, where prosperity is Foundation, which was holiday promotion staged at 2 p.m. on the St. Regis Hotel in New York. And while combined with humanity,” said established by the late Wednesday by Saks Fifth Avenue, which some might think all she does is go out and the prince. princess in 1964 to sup- offered the luxury cars for $542,000 apiece party, she insisted she just fi nished a year Only 81 of the pens will be port cultural and hu- and donated $10,000 of the proceeds of hard work. “I learned a lot this year,” she produced, in representation of manitarian projects. from each of the fi ve vehicles purchased said. “I learned to be true to myself and the age reached by the sover- — A.I. to St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital in try not to design based on the opinions of eign. The 18-karat white gold The Montblanc pen Memphis. In addition to the limited edition others. I learned to trust myself. You never pen is stud- honoring Prince Rainier III. ded with Mercedes, the half-million or so dished out Tinsley know how something is going to turn out, eight carats by the gift buyers will bring them a trip to Mortimer but you have to stick to your instinct.” worth of dia- 6 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 The Beauty Report Estée Lauder’s New Prescription for Youth

stée Lauder has injected new blood into its most Another key ingredient is Re-Nutriv Protective Evenerable antiaging franchise with what the com- Ferment, based on a deep-sea organism found in the pany bills as a new “youth molecule.” Gulf of California. The organism is said to protect the The molecule, Resveratrate, is the key ingredient in skin’s detoxifying enzymes, allowing the skin to main- Re-Nutriv Ultimate Youth Creme, the latest addition to tain a youthful appearance. the brand’s iconic Re-Nutriv franchise. The formula also includes a South Sea pearl-mica- “Spring 2008 marks the 50th year of Re-Nutriv, which silica combination for an immediate brightening ef- was created by Mrs. Estée Lauder in 1958,” said Elana fect after application, as well as camelia sativa oil, Drell-Szyfer, senior vice president of global marketing said to improve skin’s elasticity. for Estée Lauder. “With every new skin care innovation, Ultimate Youth Creme will retail for $250 for 1.7 oz. the brand has evolved, and with Resveratrate, we be- Its target market is a woman in her mid-30s. lieve that we’re offering a scientifi c breakthrough.” Ultimate Youth Creme will be available in January in The molecule was inspired at least in part by re- about 170 U.S. specialty store doors, including Neiman search done by David Sinclair, Ph.D., of Harvard Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bloomingdale’s and Bergdorf Medical School, and Leonard Guarente, Ph.D., of the Goodman, and it will roll out globally beginning in Massachusetts Institute of Technology, on sirtuin en- February. National advertising, will break in February zymes in the skin and how they infl uence cell longevity, fashion, beauty and lifestyle magazines. The fi rst month’s said Daniel Maes, vice president of global research and advertising will be an advertorial featuring a product development for Estée Lauder. One of the Re-Nutriv Ultimate Youth Creme ads. shot and an explanation of the molecule, and subsequent “Resveratrate takes resveratrol to the next level,” advertising will feature Carolyn Murphy, said Charisse said Maes. While resveratrol, a widely used antioxidant, is effective, it also has a number Ford, vice president of global skin care marketing for the Lauder brand. Online marketing of limitations, said Maes, including limited solubility and instability in high concentra- also is planned, she noted, and more than 300,000 samples will be distributed at launch. tions. Where Lauder’s version — eight years in the making — differs is in its biomimetic While none of the executives would discuss sales projections or advertising bud- (skin-friendly) quality, which allows the molecule to penetrate more deeply into the skin, gets, industry sources estimated that Ultimate Youth Creme would do at least $7 creating a “reservoir” for the skin to draw upon throughout the day, explained Maes. million at retail in its fi rst year on counter, and that about $2 million would be spent “If cells divide too fast, they die. If you slow down the cycle, you are making it pos- on advertising and promotion. sible for the DNA to repair itself and increasing cell survival sixfold,” he said. — Julie Naughton Experts Say Scent Industry Faces Challenges By Matthew W. Evans intact” thanks to low unemploy- Harrison, chairman and chief ment and the addition of jobs executive offi cer of Financo Inc., NEW YORK — As fragrance since the summer. and moderator Darby Dunn, marketers gear up for the The Consumer Confi dence who is a reporter with CNBC. holiday season — when the in- Index slipped to 95.6 — the Harrison noted that unsea- dustry generates about 60 per- lowest reading since hur- sonably warm weather, which cent of its sales for the year — ricanes Katrina and Rita has been seen this fall, “affects months of declining consumer two years ago — from 99.5 in results” and “retailers are cut- confidence are creating a chal- September. However, employ- ting fourth-quarter forecasts lenging environment, panel- ers added 166,000 jobs to pay- due to the weather.” Gilbert Harrison, Darby Dunn, Lynn Franco, Rochelle Bloom, ists at a Fragrance Foundation rolls in October, about double Macy’s Inc., the nation’s president of the Fragrance Foundation, and Christopher Ferrara. state of the industry luncheon economists’ expectations, and largest department store chain, CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY said Wednesday. the unemployment rate last said Wednesday its same-store shop in department stores. ing to margins of up to 75 percent Still, there is a bright spot: month was unchanged from sales for the fourth quarter “The department store is not at Lauder, beauty fi rms “tend to While consumers’ “willingness September at 4.7 percent. could range between a 2 per- where consumers are spend- weather the storm better.” to spend is somewhat off due to “Personal income growth is cent decline and a 1 percent ing their money today,” said Harrison added that while consumer confi dence numbers,” the silver lining,” said Franco, increase, totaling $8.7 billion to Harrison, who added that “de- celebrity scents account for 23 said panelist Lynn Franco, di- who was joined on the panel $8.9 billion. For the year, sales partment stores have lost tre- percent of the prestige fragrance rector of The Conference Board by equity analyst Christopher are projected to fall by between mendous traction” as specialty business, their longevity is an Consumer Research Center, Ferrara, who is senior direc- 0.3 percent and 1.3 percent, or stores like Sephora and Ulta issue. Designer scents, he said, their “ability to spend is still tor at Merrill Lynch; Gilbert $26.4 billion and $26.6 billion. have expanded. Also, there has such as those from Tom Ford Despite the sobering data, been a “shift toward mass fra- and Vera Wang, “seem to have a Harrison is optimistic. “The grances,” as prestige scents have bigger impact than celebrity.” National Retail Federation is ended up in the mass market. “The conundrum the [beau- talking about a 4 percent in- Beauty sales in the mass ty] industry is facing,” said crease in sales, but I think it market, which were flat in Harrison, is that it spends so will be more,” he said. “The 2004, have seen growth of 4 much money on launching new consumer is optimistic. They percent more recently, accord- fragrances. But “if you stop the like to spend.” ing to Ferrara. In the prestige launches, what happens to the Dunn pointed to a recent market, growth of 4 percent existing [inventory]? The con- poll that said 72 percent of in the 2004 to 2005 period has sumer wants something new.” 1,000 consumers surveyed said tempered and is showing a fl at Ferrara contended that in- they would spend the same to 1 percent growth. vestors are comparing house- this year as they did last year, While department stores hold manufacturers with beau- or about $1,100. Furthermore, have held market share in color ty fi rms as companies like P&G, 42 percent of them said they cosmetics, Ferrara said, market (which, he said, does about $2.5 would spend for a fragrance. share in fragrance and skin billion in sales with its prestige Harrison contended that care has declined by 6 percent- fragrance brands) get deeper “impulse purchases and hot age points, dollars that have into the beauty business. products are critical to suc- shifted to the mass market. In the long term, according cess,” adding that although “Due to the launch of pres- to Ferrara, investors will de- people are looking for a unique tige fragrances in mass, women mand that such fi rms balance product offering, the fragrance are changing the places they “process-driven, fi nancial dis- industry all too often comes up shop,” said Ferrara. On the cipline” with the “art” of mak- with the “same old stuff.” skin care side, he said, mass ing aspirational products like In order to spur results, brands like Procter & Gamble’s prestige fragrances in order to Harrison argued, the fragrance Olay have taken market share maximize profi tability. He indi- industry should decrease its from the prestige market. cated that the Estée Lauder Cos. dependence on department Ferrara said prestige play- potentially took a step in this stores, its “lifeblood for many, ers have experienced a “higher direction last week when it an- many years,” by expanding cost of doing business” in the nounced Fabrizio Freda, a P&G across retail channels or by past fi ve years, as sales have executive, is in line to become making acquisitions related to been fl at or slightly up, while Lauder’s ceo in two years. other channels. spending on advertising has “The greatest risk to the According to Harrison, 60 risen 26 percent. He indicated prestige [market], more than percent of consumers plan the short-lived nature of celeb- product effi cacy,” said Ferrara, to shop in the discount store rity scents hasn’t helped. is “a greater emphasis” on cost channel, while 26 percent plan However, because there are than on the excitement a prod- to shop in specialty stores and higher gross margins in the beau- uct can create. “It’s up to the more than 30 percent plan to ty industry, Ferrara said, point- players to fi nd a balance.” WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 7

WWD.COM Scents and Sensibility With Kate Winslet By Julie Naughton and Pete Born and a sincerity to Kate Winslet that women around the role as an obsessive teenager in “Heavenly Creatures.” world fi nd immensely appealing.” After winning the role of Marianne Dashwood in “Sense ome actors draw the line at mixing art and com- Adds Eric Lauzat, president of Lancôme in the U.S.: and Sensibility” (and racking up her fi rst Academy Award Smerce, but Kate Winslet isn’t one of them. “Femininity, luxury, good taste — that’s what Kate nomination) Winslet went on to star in 1997’s “Titanic,” “In the last few years, there don’t seem to be any rules brings to the brand. Kate plays a lot of romantic leads the box-offi ce blockbuster (for which she earned another around it anymore,” said Winslet during an interview — and romance is what Trésor is all about.” Academy Award nomination). Since then, Winslet’s fi lms about her role as the new face of Lancôme’s venerable Like other celebrities — including Clive Owen, who have included “Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind” Trésor franchise, her fi rst beauty deal. “I remember fi ve is the face of Lancôme’s Hypnose Homme — Winslet (her favorite role to date), “Hideous Kinky,” “Romance or six years ago, it was really a big deal to be the face approaches the Trésor campaign as she would any fi lm and Cigarettes” and “Finding Neverland.” of a campaign or a spokesperson for a particular brand project. During a recent visit to Manhattan’s Chelsea High name. Now, it just doesn’t seem to matter so much.” “In a strange way, it felt like committing to a fi lm, as School to speak to student members of the Epic Theatre Not that Winslet would particularly care if it did. opposed to committing to a fragrance line. It’s such a Ensemble (which is partially fi nanced by Lancôme), Like many of the characters she has por- Winslet admitted to the classic actorly affl ic- trayed, Winslet is fi ercely independent and tion of insecurity. “Every single thing I do, I marches to the beat of her own drummer Kate Winslet watches always think ‘I could have done that better,’” — she has even recorded a duet with Weird students performing she told the students. “I always try every idea Al Yankovic entitled “I Need a Nap.” at Chelsea High School I have and I always experiment with those Still, she doesn’t take her status for grant- in Manhattan. things to see what works the best until I’ve ed. “I do feel unbelievably privileged that exhausted all the alternatives. Then there’s I’m in a place where I get to choose,” she that feeling of ‘Oh, that’s so obvious. Why did said. “It’s a position that people dream of I forget that?’ And you’re kicking yourself for being in, and I don’t take it lightly.” not having pushed yourself that little bit fur- What she cares most about: “As an indi- ther. I feel that all the time. vidual, to hang on to some sense of mystery “You learn on the job, as you go,” Winslet — which in this world that we live in now told the students. “You need more than any- that is so obsessed with celebrity, I think it’s thing to have the confi dence to take yourself harder to hang on to who you really are,” to the very vulnerable places where you she said. have to go to as an actor. Those emotions And Winslet has a sensible way for avoid- and life experiences are part of the tool- ing that type of neurosis: She refuses to read box. Take those experiences and keep them anything written about her. “First of all, I don’t for later. There is no right or wrong, and really know what’s written about me because you have to try everything. You have to be I don’t look at any of it,” she said. “I don’t read brave enough to stand up in front of other reviews or other things. How would you sur- people, just rehearsing or running scenes. vive in this crazy world if you read everything You can’t be afraid of what you sound like, that’s written about you? I’m blissfully un- what you’re looking like, what you’re walk- aware. Maybe I’d be a different person if I did ing like. You have to get that self-conscious listen to what they were saying.” thing and get it gone because it’s only going That conviction has made it easy to say to get in the way.” that a Kate Winslet-branded fragrance is Of all her roles, Winslet says the one spe- highly unlikely. “I wouldn’t like to have a cifi c scene she’d choose to do over would be Kate Winslet fragrance, no. It’s just not my one at the end of 2006’s “Little Children.” style. It’s not my thing,” she said. “There’s a scene at the end of that “As an actor, it’s an enormous privilege movie where my character thinks for a to be asked to be a part of things like [the brief moment that she has lost her child,” Trésor campaign], and I guess it just felt like Winslet remembered. “Her daughter was the right time for me,” said Winslet. Print in a swing one moment and she turns advertising began running in September around and [her daughter is] gone. And in books; a TV campaign will follow for the this moment, my character has an enor- holiday season. Sources say Trésor’s busi- mous realization of what a useless mother ness has risen 20 percent since Winslet’s ads she has been. She fi nds the child, but I began appearing. Trésor’s sales in the U.S. realized later that there are so many dif- have been estimated at $40 million retail ferent ways I could have played this scene for this year. None of the executives would where she breaks down — she loves this discuss what Winslet is being paid for the child, and this moment of possibly losing campaign or what Lancôme is spending to her has changed her forever. Often, emo- place it, but industry sources estimated that tional scenes are the ones I would like to

Winslet is being paid at least $5 million over ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY go back to.” three years for her work on the campaign, And there’s one other thing she’d like and that Lancôme is spending upward of $10 million to stylish project, in many ways. With Peter Lindbergh [who to make clear. Published reports have Winslet turn- place it in the U.S. alone. shot the Trésor campaign and with whom she’s worked ing down Gwyneth Paltrow’s Oscar-winning role in “Kate is an exquisite ambassador for Lancôme be- on editorial shoots] and also fi lling the shoes of Isabella “Shakespeare in Love,” an allegation she denies. cause she truly embodies what Trésor is all about,” Rossellini, it’s a pretty big deal.” “That isn’t my quote — I never said that,” she said said Odile Roujol, global president of Lancôme. “She is Born into a family of actors — her father, Roger fi rmly. romantic, feminine and modern. At the same time, we Winslet, is an actor, as are both of her sisters, Anna and But she is quotable on her choice of a dream co-star. love that Kate is an accomplished woman with heart- Beth — Winslet said acting is “the only thing I felt like I “My favorite actress in the world is Meryl Streep, and felt convictions about beauty and appearance, about ever wanted to do.” Her fi rst big job was in an Eighties- I haven’t had a chance to work with her,” said Winslet, her family and about her work. There is a truthfulness era Sugar Puffs cereal commercial; later, she landed a who added that she has met her. “She’s a goddess.” Jesel Named for MAC Role AC Cosmetics is expected to announce today that Guillaume Jesel Jail Time Aside, Paris Still Sells Mhas been named vice president of global marketing for the brand. Jesel will replace Caroline Geerlings in the role. As reported, aris Hilton’s one-month stint in jail ear- over the course of the last month and a half. Geerlings was named senior vice president and general manager Plier this year apparently has not dimmed “This is the fi rst time I got to do this kind for Prescriptives Worldwide earlier this month. her salability. An estimated 500 people of themed campaign, and it was a lot of fun Jesel’s appointment is effective Nov. 26; he will report to John showed up at Macy’s at Roosevelt Field Mall to play with the Parisian theme since it’s Demsey, group president of the Estée Lauder Cos. in Garden City, N.Y., on Tuesday, when Hilton fl irty and sexy,” said Hilton during a tele- Most recently, Jesel served as vice president of global makeup made an appearance promoting the launch phone interview. marketing for the Estée Lauder brand, although he had previous- of her new Moulin Rouge-inspired fragrance For her next themed fragrance, Hilton ly worked on the MAC Cosmetics brand. Before joining the Estée Can Can Paris Hilton. Over the course of wants to do something that incorporates Lauder Cos. in 2000, Jesel served in several marketing capacities three hours, about 200 bottles were sold, add- wings. “I like that fairy and Tinkerbell idea in the U.S. division of Lancôme. ing up to roughly $25,000 in retail sales, ac- since that’s what perfume is all about.” In this role, Jesel will concentrate on global marketing for all of cording to sources. Hilton recently unveiled a jeans and ap- MAC’s product categories, and will also oversee makeup artistry, The fragrance has even inspired some men parel line and plans to launch shoes soon. online marketing and new launches. to propose to Hilton. “They bring in rings and She also has two movies coming out in the “Guillaume is an outstanding, talented global marketing execu- ask me if I’ll marry them,” joked Hilton. new year — “The Hottie and the Nottie,” tive,” said Demsey in a statement. “His vast experience in fashion, Hilton will be making a total of fi ve in- slated for February release, and “Repo! The L’Oréal, MAC and most recently at the Estée Lauder brand make store appearances at Macy’s. According to Genetic Opera” in March. She’s also hoping him the perfect business partner for the dynamic MAC team to Neil Katz, chairman and chief executive of- to get back in the studio next year to work on take the business forward.” fi cer of Parlux Fragrance Inc., Hilton’s over- a new album. — J.N. all fragrance business is up about 30 percent — Michelle Edgar 8 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 The Beauty Report Cover Girl to Revamp Key Franchises in ’08 By Andrea Nagel powder and powder foundation, will now also have a blush and a concealer. The mainstay of over Girl hinted at an image overhaul when it an- the line, TruBlend Liquid, will utilize “multi- Cnounced in August that Drew Barrymore would tonal pigments,” a coloring system that Sarah serve as co-creative director on print advertisements Vickery, M.D., senior scientist for Cover Girl for a new mascara, LashBlast, due out in January. The Cosmetics, said “merges with the skin rather starlet also appears in the ads: She was photographed than matching it. It is more advanced technol- in black-and-white, poised in a sultry pose next to the ogy to get us toward skin affi nity. We did that mascara’s bright orange cigar-shaped tube. For the es- from a color standpoint and from a physical timated $720 million brand, the ads are a departure property standpoint.” Also, the liquid founda- from its usual “fresh and natural” aura. tion has been taken out of its carton and will be And it seems the Barrymore LashBlast ads are just merchandised only in its glass bottle. the tip of the iceberg for Cover Girl’s 2008 plans, too. “I think Cover Girl has always been New Cover Girl products. about clean, fresh and natural and we are now dimensionalizing how it’s about you. We are not correcting anything wrong but highlighting more of what women want, An ad for LashBlast, a new Cover Girl mascara. adding more liveliness, seeing a better ver- sion of yourself, not just clean, fresh and The TruBlend Pressed Powder, natural,” said Esi Eggleston-Bracey, gen- TruBlend Powder Foundation, TruConceal eral manager, Cosmetics North America, concealer, TruCheeks blush and TruBlend Procter & Gamble. Pressed Mineral Foundation will fol- Executives said Cover Girl is overhaul- low a new color-coding system, which ing packaging and formulas on several key begins with the liquid foundation. Users brands in its portfolio to broaden its appeal are to choose from one of six numbered to women seeking an “individualized” beau- foundation shades and then select other ty look. Long-lasting lipwear brand Outlast TruBlend items corresponding to the foun- and face makeup brand TruBlend are two dation’s number. properties that will be reworked. The number-coded system is an aim at Outlast, the largest lip property in the multiple transactions, said industry ob- Cover Girl portfolio, is slated to receive server Allan Mottus. new packaging, new formulas and a bright- “Women feel more confi dent buying er color range for its 41 shades. Outlast’s more than one thing when products [are lip color, said Eggleston-Bracey, can now be packaged in such as way.] Department viewed better in its package due to changes stores are very good at doing that. If you to the glass containers housing the color are going in for one thing, you are wide portion of formulas. open to buying more,” he said. “Not all glass is compatible with long- Advertising for TruBlend will also fea- wear lip color,” said Eggleston-Bracey. ture Barrymore, in an effort to be more Shades were updated by in-house global “real, refreshed and have more attitude,” design director for P&G Beauty Pat McGrath. said Eggleston-Bracey. Barrymore was co- And, finally, changes were made to creative director for these ads, too. Outlast’s two-part lip system. Outlast’s base We are…highlighting more of what women Mottus commented that the Barrymore coat, which uses Permatone technology to effort is a way for the brand to cling to its allow the product’s color to stay on for up to want,“ adding more liveliness, seeing a better number-two mass market cosmetics po- 16 hours, now has green tea, jojoba and vita- sition, which is behind Maybelline and min E to make the formula softer. Outlast’s version of yourself. in front of L’Oréal Paris. But he does not clear top coat will now have aloe vera, shea know if consumers will relate to the new butter, cocoa butter and vitamin E, as well ”— Esi Eggleston-Bracey, Procter & Gamble confi dent message. as a vanilla fl avor and fragrance. “It is not a beauty ad,” said Mottus. “It New ads for Outlast will feature Queen Latifah, who TruBlend Pressed Mineral Foundation will become seems more of a MAC department store kind of thing. serves as one of the many faces for the brand. an addition to the TruBlend Minerals line, which is It is an ad that is going outside their normal culture TruBlend cosmetics are also being completely re- formulated with “ultrafi ne satinized particles.” The and from a consumer standpoint, the orange brush, staged, with new additions, packaging and formulas. The formula is talc-free, but it is of “a high purity and cos- Barrymore’s face, her shoulders and the lack of copy, I face makeup, which launched in February 2004 with a metics grade,” said Vickery. The powder is packaged don’t know if that is going to sell. There’s nothing more liquid foundation, and expanded in 2005 with a pressed with a brush. diffi cult [than getting] women to switch mascara.” Coty Signs Tim McGraw to Scent Deal Penhaligon’s Plans Update NEW YORK — Coty Inc.’s celeb- to date,” success that Beetz rity fragrance machine contin- TIm McGraw anticipates will translate into ues to crank away. a “blockbuster fragrance for Of Madison Avenue Store The New York-based fra- both his fans and the beauty NEW YORK — Penhaligon’s, the U.K.-born perfumery, grance company, which mar- industry.” has drafted plans to revamp its Madison Avenue shop, kets upward of a dozen celeb- “Creating my own fragrance according to the company’s real estate agency Prudential rity brands, has added to that is an exciting new endeavor for Douglas Elliman. assemblage with the signing me,” McGraw said in the state- Plans call for the fi rm to refurbish its 200-square-foot of country music singer Tim ment. “Coty has a great cre- Midtown store, located at 870 Madison Avenue. The up- McGraw, who is to develop and ative and marketing team, one dates to the eight-year-old store will mirror Penhaligon’s market a signature fragrance. of the best in the industry, and newly opened shops in Paris and London, said Brian The yet-to-be-named men’s I’m looking forward to working Kurtz, Penhaligon’s director of sales and marketing. scent is due out in the summer. with them.” Construction is slated to begin after the holiday season, While Coty anticipates the fra- In addition to his musical and is expected to be completed in the spring, said Faith grance “will be widely distrib- exploits — which include a Hope Consolo, chairman of Prudential Douglas Elliman’s uted in major retailers across pop single with rapper Nelly retail leasing and sales division. North America,” according to a called “Over and Over” — the The Madison Avenue store is Penhaligon’s sole stand- statement from the fi rm, retail- Louisiana native has acted in alone store in the U.S., although its products are sold in ers and distribution channels fi lms such as “The Kingdom,” boutiques in Wynn Las Vegas, Fred Segal and Saks Fifth have not yet been established. “Flicka,” “Friday Night Lights” Avenue in New York. The retailer, which is owned by the McGraw, 40, joins fellow country singer Shania and “Black Cloud.” investment group Fox Paine, is looking to open two addi- Twain in marketing a scent with Coty, whose While this may be his fi rst foray into fragrance, tional U.S. stores in the next year. It previously operated portfolio of recording artist scents also includes McGraw, along with wife Faith Hill, was appoint- a store in Beverly Hills. Celine Dion, Kylie Minogue, Gwen Stefani and ed an ambassador earlier this year to represent a Penhaligon’s, established in the U.K. in 1870, pro- Jennifer Lopez. charity for Cartier’s Love Charity bracelet. With duces fragrances, skin care products, home fragranc- Coty’s chief executive offi cer, Bernd Beetz, the sale of every $475 bracelet — a silk cord strap es and gift items, including baby items, silver and noted in the statement, “Tim has delivered 30 with a rose gold charm — $100 went to charity. leather goods. number-one hits and sold over 36 million albums — Matthew W. Evans — Molly Prior PHOTO BY MARK SELIGER PHOTO BY WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 9

WWD.COM Five Below Aims for More Profi table Beauty Assortment

RARITAN, N.J. — The opening of a Five Below store here shows the challenges beau- The new Five Below ty faces as teens and tweens flock to other categories. store in Raritan, N.J. The store, the newest look for the 66-unit chain, has a tighter assortment of beauty than older designs. Co-founder Tom Vellios said that change was by design to make room for the hot items teens want, including iPod accessories, T-shirts and home decor. Five Below isn’t alone in its move to trim beauty. Many other chains have also had to clear more space for more profi table categories, such as mini health clinics and skin care. Vellios, however, said beauty sales are still strong at a double-digit gain and that he hopes to get aggressive in the category next year with a stepped-up effort. “We’re going to go after it next year,” he added. Five Below opened 15 new stores this year with plans for another 15 next year. Even in its tinier space, Five Below makes a statement with beauty. The stores are aimed at tweens and teens who fi nd items such as bath gel and lip gloss a must- have. Beauty items at this new location in central New Jersey are near the front of the store, but confi ned mostly to one major fi xture. In the original stores, beauty com- manded about twice as much space. Among the beauty highlights are LA Colors eye and nail items, Funky Fingers neon nail polish, a gift bag of 25 lip glosses, a one-foot peg section of candy-themed lip products from Lotta Luv, Disney Princess sets from Townley and Hello Kitty bath sets. There was also a make-your-own lip gloss kit being snapped up by shoppers get- ting a head start on the holiday season. The opening fl yer promoted Gingerbread and Snowy Day gift sets at $5 each. Vellios said hot colors such as Funky Fingers have the market and up the footage as needed. The management team is quick to point been fl ying out of the store. “We helped put Funky Fingers on the map,” he added. out Five Below is not a typical dollar-type store, rather a value spot for trend mer- He said Five Below looks for opportunistic deals and also goes right to manufactur- chandise. Five Below has a cadre of buyers prowling trade shows, such as Effi cient ers for products that can be planogrammed. Collaborative Retail Marketing, in search of new items. Beauty products are also included in an easy-to-shop travel department with trial Two other New Jersey locations opened the same day as this site in Raritan. sizes perfect for air travel. Products getting more real estate at Five Below refl ect cur- In less than fi ve years, Five Below has grown from its fi rst shop in the suburban rent youth shopping desires, including ballet fl at shoes, iPod accessories, games, home Philadelphia market to locations in Pennsylvania, New Jersey, Delaware, Maryland decor, candy, DVDs and gag items. The store was bustling on a recent afternoon visit and Virginia. Management targets strip shopping centers in heavily traveled areas with shoppers fi lling up on toys, games, candy, beauty and licensed products such as and most stores average about 4,000 square feet. Rather than invest heavily in adver- Hannah Montana hair accessories. tising, Five Below attempts to attract shoppers via word of mouth. By yearend Vellios One of the advantages Five Below has is that it can react quickly to trends in said there will be 67 units up and running.

to $300, depending on the market. The straightening takes between 30 and 90 minutes to apply, depending on Ambi Expands Into Body Care hair length, type, condition and desired nown for its facial skin care products for multicultural consumers, Ambi is extend- SNIPPETS results. King its product assortment with the launch of its first body care collection. Designed to keep skin soft, smooth and moisturized, the new line is aimed at MAYBELLINE MOVES: Steven Waldberg BEAUTY BUTLER: Luxury hairstyling women with melanin-rich skin tones. The company found that consumers with has been named director of global public brand GHD has partnered with the melanin-rich skin tones were challenged by dry skin with an often ashy appear- relations for L’Oréal-owned Maybelline InterContinental London Park Lane hotel ance, said Jon Miller, research and development manager at Ambi parent Johnson New York. Prior to this role, Waldberg, a to offer the use of hair appliances to & Johnson Consumer Products. Franco-American, had served as director travelers in need of a bit of hair therapy. According to Michael Marquis, group product director for Ambi, body care of global special events for Lancôme in For a fee, guests can call up the concierge products was an area of skin care that was underserved for women of color since Paris. He has been with L’Oréal since and order everything from the use of a their needs are different. “General market areas are more focused on therapeutic 2001. In his new role, Waldberg replaces GHD styling iron with a free mini thermal itchy skin and general dryness, but women of color are looking more for items Denise Quattrochi, who was named protector ($21), to GHD-prescribed that help even out skin tone and solve problems such as hyperpigmentation and assistant vice president of consumer shampoo, conditioner and treatment reduce stretch marks. They are also looking for promotions for Maybelline New York and product with use of a styling iron ($157). products that contain much more of an oil base Garnier USA. Waldberg reports to Cyril All items are delivered on a silver tray. since their skin suffers from intense drying,” Chapuy, general manager of Maybelline said Marquis. New York Worldwide. ARTIST FOREVER: Kevin-James Bennett According to Information Resources Inc., the has been appointed director of artistry 52 weeks ended Oct. 7 showed Ambi dollar sales COIFFURE HONOR: Ann Mincey received and development for Make Up For Ever up about 195 percent to some $7.2 million, not in- the Intercoiffure America/Canada LLC. Bennett will also serve as a product cluding Wal-Mart. According to company execu- “Inspiration” Award last month for development adviser to Dany Sanz, creator tives, the growth can be attributed to the launch her service to the professional beauty and artistic director of the Make Up For of Ambi Even & Clear Facial Care line, in addi- industry. Mincey, vice president, global Ever brand. Bennett reports to Gilles tion to improved advertising and distribution. communications, Redken, has helped Kortzagadarian, general manager of Make With more than 12 items in the existing line- raise more than $575,000 for the Up For Ever, U.S. up, Ambi will launch its three new body care American Heart Association. items in January, including an oil lotion, stretch IFF’S FAB FIVE: Fragrance supplier mark diminishing oil and a moisturizing cream. BELLI BABY: The team behind Belli International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. Retailing for $7.99 each, the items will launch in Cosmetics has expanded its focus from last month promoted fi ve perfumers major food, drug and mass retailers, followed by moms-to-be to babies. Belli Cosmetics — Domitille Bertier, Sophie Chapuis, Tony a national rollout two months later. founders Annette Rubin, a former Clinique Mills, Béatrice Piquet and Olivier Polge Designed to be a nongreasy two-in-one body executive, and physician Jason Rubin, a — elevating each to the post of senior oil and lotion, Ambi’s Soft & Even Creamy Oil family practitioner, have designed four perfumer. The fi ve are based at IFF’s GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY Ambi’s new body care items. Lotion is meant to make the skin softer and items for children, including a hair and creative center in Neuilly, France. smoother. Shea butter helps restore the skin’s body wash (Calm Me), a lotion (Nourish elasticity by absorbing and retaining moisture. Me), a talc-free powder (Pamper Me) and SEASON’S TREATMENTS: To celebrate the “The oil lotion forms a layer on the skin that helps traps in the moisture,” said a diaper rash cream (Protect Me). Belli 10th anniversary of Salon AKS, Phyto Miller. “It has the benefi t properties of an oil, but it uses it in a more consumer- Baby, as the line is called, is now sold has developed a multistep, 45-minute friendly way that’s not so greasy.” in Mimi Maternity, A Pea in the Pod and antiaging treatment. The procedure begins Ambi’s Soft & Even Stretch Mark Diminishing Oil locks in moisture and reduces the Destination Maternity. Products sell for with Phytopolleine, a botanical pre- appearance of stretch marks in as little as four weeks. It is composed of soybean oil between $18 for Calm Me and $19 for shampoo treatment to purify the scalp, and almond oil, which helps retain moisture, while vitamin E helps soothe and condi- the Nourish Me. A $32 gift box is also which is followed by Huile D’Alès, to tion skin, improving the skin’s fi rmness and elasticity. According to Miller, the formula available. condition dry hair. Then, Phytoprogenium puts back the lipids that were lost, which helps increase the skin’s resiliency. shampoo is applied, which is fortifi ed with Ambi’s Soft & Even Skin Tone Enhancing Moisture Cream is designed to mois- CURL JOY: Professional beauty brand Rusk oat milk and almond and marshmallow turize the skin in addition to helping even out skin tone and texture. Miller said has developed an in-salon service to take root extracts, and hair is conditioned that the cream has been clinically tested to visibly reduce dark marks and hy- the curl out of hair. Rusk Radical Anticurl with Phytobaume conditioner. Lastly, a perpigmentation patches in discolored areas like knees and elbows in up to two uses conditioners and a patented formula Phytodensium serum is applied to the weeks. Designed to be used twice a day, the formula is composed of soy, shea but- to deliver the temporary straightening scalp for an antiaging boost. The service ter, olive oil, lipids and salicylic acid. service with prices ranging from $100 costs $85 and includes a blowout. — Michelle Edgar 10 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007

The HBA Report WWD.COM Nautica Sets Sail With Heigl British Food Store autica is venturing peony, Nantucket lotus and Opens on West Coast Ninto new waters with muguet, and a drydown of the launch of My Voyage for musk, orris, golden amber By Rachel Brown Her, the first women’s fra- and pink peppercorn. The grance to be launched since bottle features pale blue he British retail invasion of the West Coast Coty acquired the Nautica juice and silver accents in- Tbegan last week when Tesco, the U.K.’s larg- license from Unilever tended to reference yacht est and the world’s third largest retailer, opened Cosmetics International detailing. six Fresh & Easy stores in Southern California. three years ago. Eaux de parfum in two This week, the expansion of Fresh & Easy moved My Voyage for Her is sizes, 1.7 oz. for $47.50 and to Nevada, when fi ve stores bowed in the Las Vegas launching now in Dillard’s, 3.4 oz. for $59.50, will be of- area. In total, 30 stores are expected to open this and will roll out to the re- fered, as will a body lotion, year, but the company is on pace to seed California, mainder of its U.S. distri- $29, and a body wash, $26. Nevada and Arizona with around 200 stores by 2009 bution in January. When Both ancillaries are 6.7 oz. at a cost of more than $500 million a year. the scent is in full dis- Actress Katherine Heigl When the doors swung upon at the Southern tribution in the U.S., it is the face of My Voyage California units Nov. 8, crowds rushed in, match- will be available in some for Her. “Katherine is de- ing those seen at the region’s H&M stores, where 2,000 doors. It will roll out termined and hardwork- the Roberto Cavalli collection hit the racks the globally over the next 12 ing, and the visuals show same day. Locals checked out Fresh & Easy’s months, and will be avail- that,” said Mary John prices — many compared them and the selection able in Spain, France, Italy Baumann, Coty’s group with Trader Joe’s with a mainstream supermarket and Asia, among other director of global mar- spin — and competitors came in to size up their markets. keting. Adds Mormoris: newest rival. “Coty is committed to “Katherine grew up on Stores measure around 10,000 square feet and creating global brands in the coast in Connecticut, contain approximately 3,500 products ranging fragrances, and we see and has a personal iden- from paper goods to prepared meals to personal Nautica as one with the tification with Nautica care items. A nearly 1.5 million-square-foot dis- greatest potential on that as a brand. She loves tribution center in Riverside, Calif., serves Fresh scale,” said Steve Mormoris, the brand in terms of its & Easy units. senior vice president of fashion, and has the look global marketing for Coty and style that is what I’d Beauty. “It has a universal describe as Northeastern appeal based on a fashion The My Voyage for Her ad. marine-like, yet feminine brand which has a great vi- and sexy. That’s the bal- sion globally. With this fragrance, we saw an opportunity ance we were going for with both the fragrance and the to translate the values of the brand — fresh, clean, easy visuals.” elegance — using the fashion house’s references.” The campaign, shot by Enrique Badulescu, features That synergy is no accident. “We’ve been work- two photos — one to be used for national advertising ing with Denise [Seegal, president and chief execu- and a second to be used at counter in-store. National tive offi cer of VF Sportswear Inc., which owns the advertising will break in March fashion, beauty and Nautica brand] and her team to make Nautica fash- lifestyle magazines, although Dillard’s is now running ion and Nautica fragrances a seamless presentation,” the bottle visual in its holiday scent advertising. The said Mormoris. “There’s a modern, great confl uence scent will also have a dedicated Web site, nauticafra- between the two companies.” There’s also a synergy grance.com, said Baumann. Upward of 30 million scent- between the men’s and women’s Nautica fragrance ed impressions are planned. brands, he points out: Island Voyage, Nautica’s last While none of the executives would comment on launch, is intended to be the men’s counterpart to My sales projections or advertising spending, industry Voyage. Island Voyage’s advertising features Carter sources estimated that My Voyage for Her would gener- Oosterhouse of TLC’s “Trading Spaces.” ate sales of at least $20 million at retail in the U.S. in its My Voyage for Her, concocted by Givaudan’s Ellen fi rst year on counter, and that about $10 million would Molner, has top notes of sparkling grapefruit, bergamot, be spent on advertising and promotion. A Fresh & Easy key lime, bitter orange and aquatic notes; a heart of dewy — Julie Naughton storefront.

Fresh & Easy’s layout, distinguished by bold signage, wide aisles and carefully spaced mer- chandise, was informed by Tesco’s extensive re- Adorage Skin Care Reaches Dermatologists, Spas search of Americans’ shopping habits. Under the direction of Tim Mason, chief executive offi cer of NEW YORK — A new skin care brand called to reach a total of 15 spas and doctors’ Fresh & Easy, based in El Segundo, Calif., the re- Adorage, which was inspired by a skin offi ces by the end of the year. Industry search reportedly reached into consumers’ homes cream made for Sixties-era French actress sources estimate the brand could generate and stretched over a year. Delphine Vouler, has landed at doctor’s of- fi rst-year sales volume of nearly $350,000. “We’ve found customers piece together their fices and spas in the U.S. Adorage includes three 1-oz. creams, weekly shopping trip by shopping many differ- The nine-item Adorage line is based on called Moisturizing Cream, Retinol Cream ent stores, so we put together a format to simplify a reformulated version of a recipe custom- and Antistress Cream, which are priced customer’s lives,” said Mason in a statement. ized for Vouler and her family by a pharma- at $140, $150 and $155, respectively. There The personal care assortment at one Los cy in France’s Provence region, according are four 0.5-oz. products, Hyaluronic Acid Angeles location was housed in a long aisle rim- to Yeleana Premyssleer, vice president of Serum, $155; Antistress Serum, $155; Eye ming the side of the store close to cash registers. Adorage. Cream, $150, and Gel C, $150. There are also It contained staples from soaps to shampoos to Development of Adorage began two years two 3.4-oz., $47 cleansing products, one for toothpaste. Brands featured include VO5, Suave, ago, when an acquaintance of Premyssleer oily skin and one for normal to dry skin. Pantene, Neutrogena, Garnier Fructis, Jergens, came across the original formula, she said dur- The antistress products, as well as the Ultra Vital Care and Got2B. A private label natu- ing a recent interview. Premyssleer, who also Gel C vitamin C serum, are designed to ral line called bnatural featured a hand cream for works as a nurse in the offi ce of Manhattan stimulate collagen production, while the $3.89 and a scrub for $9.99. dermatologist Joel Kassimir, “wanted to create eye cream is designed to smooth and elimi- Fresh & Easy hasn’t stepped onto Wal-Mart’s something for our clients,” she said, “to make nate dark circles, the retinol cream targets turf without facing controversies similar to this their skin healthy, rejuvenate and improve wrinkles and the Hyaluronic Acid Serum country’s largest retailer. Community organiza- their skin quality.” is designed to moisturize. The line uses ex- tions have criticized Fresh & Easy for avoiding Aside from Kassimir’s of- tracts of soybean, yam, mulberry, sunfl ower, poor neighborhoods in search of wealthy consum- fice, Adorage is currently Adorage items. rosemary, thyme, jojoba and shea tree. ers, and labor groups have dinged the retailer carried in a handful of Premyssleer noted that a two-week for not hiring union members. Outside its Los other dermatologists’ of- clinical study involving 250 women be- Angeles unit on opening day, a small gathering of fi ces as well as spas, in- tween the ages of 30 and 65 found that protestors fl ashed a sign at cars passing by. cluding Renaissance after using Adorage products, a 50 per- Fresh & Easy has tried to head off the opposi- Health Spa locations in cent reduction of fi ne lines was observed. tion in its marketing blitz by touting its environ- New York, New Jersey There was also a 75 percent increase in mental efforts — the roof at its distribution cen- and Pennsylvania; skin hydration, a 72 percent improvement ter has solar installation — and its fair treatment Skin Perfection Spa & in skin smoothness and facial pigmenta- of workers. Entry-level employees start at $10 an Wellness Studio here, and tion and a 75 percent decrease in dryness, hour and are eligible for medical coverage after Luxury Spa in Miami. according to the brand. 90 days, with Fresh & Easy paying 75 percent of Plans call for Adorage — Matthew W. Evans the cost. Support cancer and careers. Support a better workplace.

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December 7th, 11am cocktails, 12pm lunch, presentation & live auction Waldorf=Astoria | Register online at cew.org 12 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 WWD.COM Penney’s, Kohl’s Latest to Trim Forecasts

Continued from page one spend, he said. Corp., Coach Inc. and Talbots Inc. of the That’s good news for J.C. Penney’s negative impact of a consumer pullback Myron E. “Mike” Ullman 3rd, chairman and a more promotional holiday selling and chief executive offi cer, who vowed season. The consumer spending woes Thursday to have trend-right merchandise chilled Wall Street Thursday, with the this holiday season to draw in consumers. Dow Jones Industrial Average declin- For the quarter ended Nov. 3, J.C. ing 0.9 percent to 13,110.05 and the S&P Penney said net income dropped to $261 Retail Index falling 1.1 percent to 420.21. million, or $1.17 a diluted share, from On Thursday, citing current sales $287 million, or $1.26, in the prior year on trends, Fitch Ratings issued a report sales that slipped 1.1 percent to $4.73 bil- forecasting softer retail sales in 2008 lion from $4.78 billion. Operating income compared with this year. The ratings fi rm fell 18.5 percent to $411 million. “After also sees trouble at the high end, with the completion of a strong back-to-school that segment’s aspirational buyer pulling season and a favorable response to our back next year. Regarding the current early fall merchandise, we were disap- holiday season, Fitch sees a heavy pro- pointed to see sales weaken dramatically motional environment aimed at clearing in September and October,” Ullman said inventories. Most analysts are expect- in a statement. Kohl’s third-quarter earnings dropped 13.6 percent on sales that increased 4.8 percent. ing shoppers to shop later in the season On a conference call with analysts, and to hunt for bargains, which will be Ullman said, “For the fi rst time, we really home furnishings.” The cfo said the suc- to lower full-year earnings estimates. plenty if current promotional activity is saw a change in consumer sentiment re- cessful back-to-school period bodes well for Kohl’s predicts earnings of $3.52 to $3.58 any clue. J.C. Penney, Kohl’s, Macy’s and fl ecting the soft housing market, the sub- the retailer’s position this holiday season. a share, down from previous estimates of a host of specialty stores are in the midst prime market and the psychological effect In regard to the Sephora store-within- $3.77 to $3.87 a share. of planned promotions with markdowns of fuel prices. Knowing that we took sig- a-store, Cavanaugh said: “There are now Customer Growth Partner’s Johnson of 30 to 50 percent off. nifi cant steps to best position ourselves, 47 Sephoras inside J.C. Penney locations said he expects holiday sales to be “in including laser focus on ensuring our and this business is exceeding plan. As line with average growth rates of the past operating expenses are in line with sales we head into the fourth quarter — not- decade. As we said after 2005’s Hurricane levels as well as managing our inventory withstanding the overall factors impact- Katrina, when gasoline prices rose well through targeted promotions, [we will] ing the consumer — we see some encour- above $3 per gallon, Americans are far consistently clear merchandise at appro- aging signs. A return to more seasonal more resilient than the experts expect. priate prices within the selling climate.” temperatures has led to increased traffi c And just as sales rose 7 percent at holiday Ullman said the aim is to have “an on- and some pickup in the sales of seasonal 2005 despite Wall Street expectations of a going fl ow of fresh, compelling merchan- merchandise. Early response to our holi- low-growth Christmas, 2007 will see over dise going forward. This is particularly day assortments has been good as we set 5 percent holiday sales growth, held down important, as we believe the consumers stores several days earlier.” only by a stubborn housing slump.” are ‘appointment shopping’ for the holi- During the question-and-answer ses- Johnson said he expects that this day. We believe we are giving them great sion on the call, Deborah Weinswig, year’s “It” items “are not handbags, but reasons with our gift assortments to shop Citigroup analyst, asked Ullman why iPhones and Wii’s. Nobody stands in at J.C. Penney.” women’s wear continues to perform well line to buy a handbag or a sweater. But Ullman said, however, that the com- at J.C. Penney. “First of all, I think we are they do stand in line at 5 a.m. at every pany is being “realistic about our ex- very trend-right, which we learned during Wal-Mart and Best Buy in the country on pectations for the balance of the year to July and August,” Ullman explained. “We mornings Wii shipments are arriving.” refl ect the realties [of the consumer en- had very, very good selling in juniors, jew- Fitch Ratings said in its report vironment].” To that end, the company elry and casual missy, as well as dresses in Thursday that “promotional activity is lowered its fourth-quarter EPS estimate our special size business. So I really feel earlier and broader than last year as to a range of $1.65 to $1.80 a share, which that the combination of our merchandised retailers seek to drive store traffi c and is down from prior guidance of $2.41. action teams working together with the clear excess apparel inventory. While re- Full-year EPS estimates were lowered to trend consultants and product develop- cent headlines about toy recalls could di- a range of $4.63 to $4.78, which is down ment [offers] what the customer is looking vert demand to U.S.- and European-made for. Our issue is frankly that we need cus- products, overall toy demand should re- tomers’ sentiment to be favorable and we main strong. In addition, sales in some For the fi rst time, we really saw a change in need traffi c, particularly in the malls.” categories, such as consumer electron- “ After the stock market closed Thursday, ics, should fare better than others, given Kohl’s Corp. said its third-quarter earn- the price accessibility and continued de- consumer sentiment refl ecting the soft housing ings dropped 13.6 percent to $194 million, mand for popular products.” or 61 cents a diluted share, from $224.5 The Fitch report said next year’s ex- market, the subprime market and the psychological million, or 68 cents a diluted share, in the pected high energy costs; weak housing prior year on sales that increased 4.8 per- and credit markets, and increased unem- effect of fuel prices. cent to $3.8 billion from $3.7 billion. ployment rates “will weigh on consumer ” — Myron E. Ullman 3rd, J.C. Penney Co. Inc. “Our sales results refl ected a diffi cult confi dence and spending. While these overall environment. We continued to factors will impact lower-income consum- operate our business in a conservative ers more signifi cantly than those at high- Still, one analyst, Craig Johnson, from a prior estimate of $5.50 a share. manner, managing inventory investment er income levels, consumers at all but president of Customer Growth Partners, On the conference call, Robert B. as we continued our improvement in the highest income levels are expected expects holiday sales to show a gain Cavanaugh, executive vice president and gross margin while reducing expenses to moderate discretionary spending with of at least 5 percent over last year. His chief fi nancial offi cer of J.C. Penney, said, where possible without hurting the cus- fewer aspirational purchases and more analysis, released Thursday, is based on “Sales trends indicate that consumers are tomer’s in-store experience,” said Larry trading down among retail channels.” shopping patterns over the past decade. cutting back on some spending, as particu- Montgomery, chairman and ceo of Kohl’s. — With contributions from Shoppers are resilient, and they will larly evident in sales of fall outerwear and The results prompted the company Liza Casabona Promotions Lead to Dip in Retail Apparel Prices in October By Evan Clark women’ apparel fell 2 percent in report Wednesday. Prices on all goods and services rose October, with dresses up 0.8 percent and Economists and retailers are keeping a seasonally adjusted 0.3 percent in WASHINGTON — Last month’s re- suits and separates off 2.2 percent. a close eye on consumers, who are beset October for the second straight month. tail prices for women’s apparel fell a Thanks to relaxed trade policies on with a sluggish housing market, high gas The so-called core prices, which ex- seasonally adjusted 0.3 percent from apparel spurring more imports from low- prices and troubles on Wall Street. clude food and energy goods, rose 0.2 September with a 1.3 percent drop in cost countries, particularly China, and Since consumer spending accounts percent for the fi fth straight month. dresses and a 0.1 percent dip for suits stiff retail competition from the likes for about two-thirds of the economy, “The ‘low’ 0.2 percent core read- and separates. of H&M, Target and others, the pricing the Federal Reserve is also keeping ing implies further deceleration in the Price promotions to move fall mer- trend in apparel has been defl ationary. shoppers in mind as it sets interest three-month annualized change,” wrote chandise during unseasonably warm Over the past fi ve years, women’s appar- policy, trying to keep rates high enough Global Insight U.S. economist Kenneth weather do not seem to have played a el prices are off 4.2 percent with prices to avoid price infl ation, but low enough Beauchemin in an analysis, adding that signifi cant role during the month. on all apparel down 3.9 percent. to stimulate growth. Right now, the the retail price report would be encour- “This October, the discounts were October was generally seen as a benchmark federal funds rate stands at aging for the Fed. comparable to Octobers in the past,” tough month for stores, with apparel 4.5 percent, down from 5.25 percent in “With little to fear in the way of ac- said Malinda Harrell, an economist at and accessories retailers managing early September. celerating labor costs, the Fed will keep the Bureau of Labor Statistics, which just a 0.1 percent rise in sales, com- Last week, Ben Bernanke, chairman a watchful eye for signs of pass-through released its Consumer Price Index on pared with the preceding month, and of the Federal Reserve Board, said the to consumer prices from surging oil Thursday. department stores down 0.5 percent, weaker dollar and higher energy prices prices and a depreciating dollar,” he Against a year earlier, prices on according to a Commerce Department could push prices up. said. “So far, so good.” WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 13 WWD.COM Media/Advertising

promises it will not look similar to the “bad TV” that is shown on some 2007 AD PAGE PERFORMANCE competitors’ sites. MEMO PAD 2007 pages 2006 pages % change 2007 vs. 2006 % change 2006 vs. 2005 Seth Rogin, vice president of

BIGGER AND BIGGER: Looks like most FASHION advertising, said Neiman Marcus, fashion magazine publishers can Bloomingdale’s and the LVMH Group breathe a sigh of relief as 2007 Allure 1,735 1,560 11.2 9.2 have signed on to advertise on the comes to a close. Titles capped off Cosmopolitan 1,822 1,739 4.8 -4.0 site. “This is not value-added, it’s a strong year as retail and apparel Elle 2,510 2,364 6.2 14.4 paid,” he said. “We’ve created an advertising helped lift revenues. But Essence 1,476 1,457 1.3 0.2 environment that brands will feel at some magazines reported gains, Glamour 2,089 1,890 10.5 7.5 home advertising in.” thanks not only to their core books, Harper’s Bazaar 2,075 1,772 17.1 9.3 To kick off the site, Silva said but through corporate programs and In Style 3,197 3,487 -8.3 -0.5 it will have a presence at Art Basel special issues, as well. For example, Miami Beach. He intends to produce Vogue retakes the top spot over Lucky 1,908 1,850 3.2 -0.4 a daily newsletter, with a distribution its fashion competitors, besting In Marie Claire 1,384 1,340 3.3 -0.5 of 10,000, that will include T Online Style with a 2007 page count of Self 1,364 1,255 8.6 4.2 blog postings. — Amy Wicks 3,222 pages. However, Vogue had Shape 1,542 1,373 12.4 1.5 some corporate help— a handful of Town & Country 1,739 1,777 -2.1 0.1 ANYTHING TO BE PRETTY: That Condé Nast titles were boosted by Vanity Fair 2,262 1,939 16.7 -6.4 vanity knows no limits doesn’t either Fashion Rocks or new program Vogue 3,222 3,057 5.4 3.3 usually surprise Allure, a magazine Movies Rock. Meanwhile, Hearst about beauty. In October, Allure Magazines spun off its own corporate W 2,216 1,984 11.7 1.1 published “Scared Straight,” efforts in 30 Days of Fashion and 30 Women’s Health 646 435 48.3 113.6 examining a seemingly miraculous Days of Beauty. hair straightening solution from In Style publisher Lynette Harrison TEEN Brazil that has recently been explained that the magazine’s 8.3 Cosmogirl 740 794 -6.8 3.0 enthusiastically adopted in the U.S. percent decline in ad pages, to Seventeen 895 936 -4.4 -3.7 even as it has drawn regulatory 3,197, came in part because some Teen Vogue 1,234 1,223 0.9 22.3 scrutiny in Brazil. Allure’s laboratory special advertising units from retailers tests of samples used in various in 2006, such as Macy’s, Target, J.C. salons found at least 10 times the Penney and Neiman Marcus, did not LIFESTYLE amount of formaldehyde deemed return this year. “We were expecting Martha Stewart Living 1,474 1,287 14.5 41.3 safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient the fourth quarter to come back much More 1,302 1,093 19.1 12.8 Review Panel. The story also saw more strongly, especially in the retail O, The Oprah Magazine 2,117 2,026 4.5 10.8 broad misinformation among many category,” she said, claiming retailers Real Simple* 2,090 1,814 15.2 4.0 American stylists using it, and were not as optimistic about holiday Redbook 1,651 1,526 8.2 3.5 questioned the effi cacy of safety spending this year as consumers measures taken to protect them from became more concerned about the repeated exposure. MEN contracting housing market and But perhaps surprisingly, the increasing gas prices. Best Life 584 425 37.4 64.2 story hasn’t killed the trend, nor Nevertheless, core fashion titles Details** 1,369 1,242 10.2 5.5 has it had much of a negative managed to post strong gains despite Esquire 1,163 1,188 -2.1 4.1 effect on the three salons consumer concerns. W posted an GQ 1,874 1,766 6.2 6.0 highlighted in the story. 11.7 percent gain in pages, to Maxim 930 931 0.0 -6.8 “It gave us a huge plug,” said Harley DiNardo 2,216. Glamour, which saw a boost Men’s Health 1,181 1,051 12.4 -5.9 , owner of Shampoo from not only corporate but also Avenue B in New York, who said he its own marketing programs, Reel Men’s Journal 1,252 1,081 15.8 5.4 has hired two extra staffers to help Moments and Reel Music, increased Men’s Vogue*** 804 397 102.3 — out at the salon to meet sudden pages 10.5 percent on top of a 7.5 demand for the treatment. Many of

percent gain last year. This year’s SOURCE: PUBLISHERS’ ESTIMATES PROVIDED TO AUDIT BUREAU OF CIRCULATIONS. his new customers have reported 2,089 ad pages is the most in *ADDED ONE MORE ISSUE IN 2007. fi nding the salon in Allure, he said. Glamour’s history. **ADDED A HOLIDAY ISSUE. “We didn’t know if the article was Elle posted a 6.2 percent gain ***WENT TO EIGHT ISSUES IN 2007 FROM THREE IN 2006. going to help us or hurt us,” he said. this year to 2,510 pages. Harper’s “I felt like [writer Mary A. Fischer] Bazaar, which this year celebrated was going to do a positive thing but its 140th anniversary, grew pages site will offi cially die in about a month, The poster who wrote, “You were eaten she basically tried to scare everyone. 17 percent on top of a 9 percent gain last to honor advertiser agreements, said a by your younger sibling Domino — which There are way worse smells and chemicals year, to 2,075 pages. spokeswoman for Condé Nast, which has nothing smart to read but lots of that you can put in your hair. It doesn’t The big winners this year include More, also owns WWD.) “Our magazine showed glossy catalogue-style photo layouts,” damage your hair. There shouldn’t be any which just lost its editor in chief, Peggy beautiful rooms, perfect in their design, might be dismayed to fi nd that clicking concern if the stylist knows what they’re Northrop, to Reader’s Digest last week. and what I wanted to talk about was on the subscription tab on the House & doing. We’re very, very busy. The phone Pages grew 19.1 percent on top of a 12.8 how things aren’t always perfect in those Garden Web site bounces a user directly to still rings off the hook.” percent growth the year prior. Vanity Fair, rooms,” Browning wrote on the site. “We Domino’s. The spokeswoman said several Business is so good, DiNardo said, that which delivered several big issues, such wish and hope that we can make homes magazines, including Domino, would split he and an employee are becoming the as July’s Africa issue and May’s Green in which we can let in only the good, and the House & Garden subscription list, but U.S. distributors of the solution, for which issue, grew pages 16.7 percent this year, keep the bad out. Well, we couldn’t keep said a fi nal decision on which ones has not DiNardo traveled to Brazil. He plans to to 2,262. Vice president and publisher the bad out this time around.” yet been made. — Irin Carmon train other salons in its use. Edward Menicheschi said having a publishing Using her editor’s letter to write The owner of the Argyle Salon & calendar of special issues signals to narrative columns, she wrote, began as ANOTHER ONE ON THE WEB: T: The New York Spa in Los Angeles also said there had advertisers that “every issue is an event.” “almost a political statement: All my Times Style Magazine will soon introduce been a noticeable uptick in demand for Additionally, most of the men’s category friends were so surprised that I was going a more polished Web site for readers the procedure, citing three walk-ins on reported gains in paging. Maxim fi nished to ‘a magazine like House & Garden…’ and, more importantly, luxury advertisers, Saturday alone, each mentioning the fl at at 930 pages. Details, Men’s Journal with all the implications that it was called T Online. The Web site, which Allure story. (Mauricio Ribeiro, the Brazilian and Men’s Health all reported double-digit somehow beneath me, coming as I did has been in the works for more than six stylist at Argyle who pioneered the use increases over the year prior. from a journalistic background with months and has had several million dollars of the solution, did not return calls.) The Finally, the teen category had a Newsweek, Texas Monthly, Esquire.” poured into it, very closely mirrors each third salon mentioned in the magazine, rough go in 2007 — the category has Just over a week after Browning issue of the supplement. And, like the Spalano Salon & Spa in Boca Raton, Fla., shrunk over the past fi ve years and the wrote her farewell, about 60 readers had online Times itself, T Online will offer has stopped using the solution because of three largest titles have posted fl at or posted, at the magazine’s invitation, their the supplement’s entire contents for health concerns. “When we learned what it declining ad page growth. Teen Vogue own goodbyes. “In a very real sense, I free (saving those design/fashion/beauty/ is, we stopped immediately,” said co-owner continues to dominate the subset, am in mourning,” wrote one. Several travel-mad readers the $4 the Sunday Emma Bezdek. reporting 1,234 pages, roughly equal to addressed Browning personally: “My Times costs). Horacio Silva, features Allure editor in chief Linda Wells was last year’s fi gure. Seventeen reported a dear Dominique, can it be that we won’t director/online director, said this was rule fl ummoxed. “It’s so illogical that people 4 percent contraction, while Cosmogirl’s be having our monthly chat any longer? number one with the site, noting he can would willfully pursue something that pages declined 6.8 percent. Here, WWD I feel like a wise friend of exceptional be frustrated over the limited content that they know is dangerous,” she said. charts the biggest fashion books’ ad page value is leaving town.” Many indicated some Web sites provide. “But I do think that this is a part of the performance for 2007. Numbers are a they were far older than the typical Of course, the site will introduce a phenomenon of the power of vanity, combination of publishers’ best estimates bulletin board poster. new blog, including the musings of one and some women will just ignore the and data from Publishers Information There were harsh words for House celebrity per week. Silva said a “big consequences.” She compared it to Bureau. — Stephanie D. Smith & Garden’s competitors: Architectural American designer” has signed on for the women afraid to quit smoking lest they Digest is, in the words of one poster, the fi rst week, although he declined to reveal gain weight. As to whether a jaded public FAREWELL, ADIEU, AUF WIEDERSEHEN: The “conceited big sister.” One seemed keenly the identity. A ticker will run at the bottom had become skeptical of health risks abruptness of magazine deaths can attuned to prevailing publishing industry of the site, alerting readers to the most reported in the media, she said, “We’re leave little time for goodbyes, but former rumors: “I can’t help but surmise that this recent blog posts. “This will not be Chic not talking about whether red wine House & Garden editor in chief Dominique decision has been made to give room for Happens 2.0,” Silva said, comparing T raises or lowers cholesterol. We’re talking Browning did get to say farewell a day after Vogue Living, which strikes me as sad and Online to his old fashion column. Video about formaldehyde, which is a known the title closed — on its Web site. (The untimely and terribly unfortunate.” coverage will be posted often, but Silva carcinogen.” — I.C. 14 WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 WWD.COM Pierre Paulin on the Function of Design core and learn to please the public. French Quarters By Robert Murphy NEW YORK — There are certain things PARIS — Pierre Paulin, at 80, is one of the WWD: How did your collaboration with that just go hand in hand: Lucy and great old men of design, having influenced Georges Pompidou come about? Desi, billboards and Times Square, his trade with creations such as his Ribbon P. P. : Pompidou wanted something mod- boeuf Bourguignon and pinot noir. and Mushroom chairs. French presidents ern that would inspire the French to em- France and fashion are another. So Georges Pompidou and François Mitterrand brace the future. He thought the country it’s not surprising that New York’s both enlisted him to decorate the Elysées was hemmed in by its traditions. His team French Institute Alliance Française Palace. As an exhibit of his furniture opens looked in the foreign magazines and decid- has named the month of November today and runs through Dec. 16 at Azzedine ed on me because my name came up a lot. Fashion Month, with a roster of events Alaïa’s gallery here, Paulin sat down with And Madame Pompidou loved my style. dedicated to all things la mode. What WWD to discuss the vagaries of design and is intriguing, though, is that this marks pore over his storied career. He also re- WWD: You decorated the presidential pal- the first time the organization has vealed he’s starting to work again. “I started ace like a spaceship. Was that your idea of embarked on such an endeavor. Even sketching again a few years ago,” he said. the future? though FIAF has held the occasional “I’m going to work with a P. P. : [The decoration] was fashion event here and there, in its 109 new manufacturer soon. But Pierre Paulin the solution to the param- years, it has never before plunged into it’s still top secret.” eters imposed on me. The so large-scale a survey of style. restrictions dictated my What got the party started? Less WWD: What drew you to choices. They told me I than a year ago, Lili Chopra, director design? couldn’t touch the walls and of programming at the institute, invited Pierre Paulin: I had two they told me I couldn’t make Pamela Golbin, curator of the Musée uncles I admired. One was any noise. So everything was de la Mode et du Textile, to give a talk a sculptor and the other an created in a factory before it on Cristobal Balenciaga. (Golbin had engineer. I started out want- was installed. organized last year’s big Balenciaga ing to be like the fi rst one retrospective in Paris and written the PHOTO BY WILLIAM KLEIN/WALKER ART CENTER ART WILLIAM KLEIN/WALKER PHOTO BY and I ended up being more WWD: Did Pompidou like accompanying book.) The two soon A scene from “In & Out of Fashion.” like the second. I sculpted it? struck up a friendship which led to for three years and was P. P. : I think the president brainstorms about other possible William Klein, with appearances by forced to quit when I had was a traditionalist, some- events at FIAF. “Then Pamela had this Jean Paul Gaultier and agnès b.’s Agnès an accident. In any case, one who loved modernity notion of doing [James Lipton’s] ‘Inside Troublé. And then, of course, there are I didn’t feel like an artist. without really knowing what the Actors Studio’ but for fashion,” fl icks like “Funny Face” and “And God I was too concerned with it was. Madame Pompidou says Chopra. Enter this month’s Created Woman” starring, respectively, practical problems. told me the Queen of “Fashion Talks with Pamela Golbin,” Audrey Hepburn and Brigitte Bardot. England and the ruler of a series of conversations between Chopra explains that she chose these to WWD: Did starting out by Saudi Arabia loved it. As for the curator and a guest designer that show “how cinema infl uences fashion,” sculpting infl uence your ap- the rest, I have no idea. take place on Fridays. “We want to adding with a laugh that the bikini proach to design? establish a transatlantic conversation,” wouldn’t be where it is without Bardot. P.P.: Not at all. Art and de- WWD: The furniture you Golbin adds. Last week, she spoke to Jean Seberg’s in there, too, for her pixie sign are completely differ- created for Mitterrand was Véronique Nichanian, men’s wear turn in Jean-Luc Godard’s “Breathless.” PHOTO BY DOMINQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY ent. Art is a calling from completely different, not at designer at Hermès. Next up will be “For us, she completely revolutionized God. But design is a career. all Space Age. Bruno Frisoni of Roger Vivier on Nov. the haircut,” Chopra notes. You have contracts and engage- P.P.: Mitterrand was even more 30 and, on Dec. 7, Olivier Theyskens If you can’t attend one of the ments. You must respect your traditional than Pompidou. of Nina Ricci. “We wanted to choose above scheduled events, no matter. relationship to industry. It in- He wanted traditional things. someone representing women, one Fashion Month at FIAF also includes volves daily life. When you are in the service of for men and one for accessories,” says a daily (and free) exhibit, “A Woman’s power, you try to express the Chopra, explaining how they decided Obsession,” by photographer Chantal WWD: How did you get started? needs of the leader. on the final three. “They all offer Stoman. It’s the fi rst Stateside stop P.P.: France was in a state of de- different experiences. And Pamela for the exhibition, which explores struction after the war. I was part WWD: Do you fi nd that design has has intimate relationships with these the Japanese fascination with luxury of a group of people who were devel- changed a lot today? designers — she really knows in detail brands like Chanel, after gallery oping “reconstruction” products. Products P.P.: Not in industries like cars and air- all their work and lives.” rounds in Tokyo and Paris. And Chopra that were more sober, somewhat in the craft. But in furniture it’s changed entire- Guests at FIAF are getting peeks promises that this won’t be the last manner of the Scandinavian look. ly. Before it was industrial, today it’s more at the lives of other designers, too. In time the series takes place; she hopes artisanal. And designers take themselves addition to the lectures, the center’s to make it an annual event. “There WWD: Were you successful right away? for artists. That amuses me. An artist who weekly Cinéma Tuesdays screenings are are so many different angles in which P.P.: Not at all! My fi rst concern was sur- develops furniture that is totally uncom- taking on the theme of fashion icons; last we can really talk about fashion,” she vival. No one in France was interested in fortable and unusable — it’s astonishing. week, for instance, the lineup included says. And she already has her eye on the type of thing I was doing. There was a A designer isn’t an artist. We are in the two back-to-back documentaries on what she’d like to tackle next: “the very small elite interested in similar things. service of the public. We are not meant to Yves Saint Laurent. Other selections relationship between fashion and France seemed so dusty and antique next to serve ourselves. will include 1998’s “In & Out of performance,” she says. the Scandinavian countries, which were liv- Fashion,” on the life of photographer — Venessa Lau ing in a totally new manner. It took France WWD: What about the incredible prices 30 years to get design. being paid for design today? P.P.: I don’t understand why you’d collect WWD: What was your fi rst big break? things like that. It’s a self-contained mar- P.P.: A Dutch fi rm, Artifort, contacted me. ket that I don’t understand. But maybe it’s Developing Nations Point to U.S. as Doha Roadblock That was 1958. Hans Knoll had arrived in something that will detach itself from the By John Zarocostas there cannot be a resolution in ag- France. I was crazy for Knoll. It was the real métier in the future. riculture,” Nath said at the end of fi rst time I’d seen a type of modernity that GENEVA — Trade and agriculture a meeting of ministers and senior resonated with me. There was Herman WWD: Are there any contemporary design- ministers from developing nations, officials from the influential G20 Miller and Charles and Ray Eames, for ers you admire? led by South Africa, India and Brazil, group, which includes Argentina, whom I had the greatest admiration be- P. P. : There’s a young German with a renewed their criticism on Thursday Brazil, China, Egypt, Indonesia and cause they were freer; Knoll was somewhat Yugoslavian name? that the Bush administration is im- South Africa. bourgeois. Ray and Charles Eames are the peding the Doha global trade talks “Any attempt to put the blame on greatest designers of the 20th century in WWD: Konstantin Grcic? over slashing farm subsidies, espe- the diffi culties in the negotiations my estimation. P.P.: Yes, that’s right. He’s emblematic of cially on cotton. on developing countries is mis- the hope for a new generation. And there’s “The U.S. is the biggest subsidizer placed,” said Celso Amorim, Brazil’s WWD: People called your style Pop. Was it a an Englishman. of the cotton sector; it is very disturb- foreign minister. “After all, this is refl ection of what was going on in the plas- ing and worrying for us that the U.S. an agricultural round, and we have tic arts? WWD: Jasper Morrison? has rejected the draft text of the [agri- to see what happens in agriculture P.P.: It wasn’t derived from Pop Art. That P. P. : Exactly. He won’t culture] chairman [Crawford Falconer in order to make our own moves in arrived in France much later. I was Pop be- transform the world. of New Zealand] of addressing the dis- other areas.” fore Pop! My aesthetic was determined by He’s classical, and he tortions in the cotton sector,” Lulama Ministers from the developing na- technical choices. It was a consequence. I doesn’t try to astonish, Xingwana, South Africa’s minister of tions again stressed that what they did a chair that was covered with a swim- which I often tried to do. agriculture, told reporters. “We have are prepared to offer in lowering suit material. It was somewhat inspired But he searches, like I tried not seen any proposal or alternative tariffs on industrial goods, which in- by existing forms. But it led to me fi nding to do, to serve a public. That’s that has come from the U.S. on how it cludes textiles and apparel, would be forms that were more personal. It wasn’t our function as designers. will approach the cotton distortions. proportionate to what they receive in easy. For a long time, I was ashamed of the It is a matter of grave concern to us.” agriculture from rich countries. Ribbon chair because it was so provoca- The U.S. has rejected terms pro- The group also chided Washington tive. You have to understand, I’m posed in July that recommended an 82 for its refusal to extend President part Swiss and German as well percent cut in cotton subsidies. Kamal Bush’s trade promotion authority, as Northern Italian and Nath, India’s minister for commerce which gives him the power to negoti- French. It took me and industry, said cotton is a make or ate trade deals without amendments a while to shake One of Paulin’s most break issue for the talks. from Congress. That authority expired off my Puritanical famous designs. “Without a resolution on cotton, in June.

WWD, FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 16, 2007 15 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

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Chief Operating Officer Fast growing International Home Fragrance Company is looking for an Showrooms & Lofts energetic and experienced COO to manage the daily operation of our BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS organization while supporting the growth of the business to the next level. L’Atelier-Reign, Great ’New’ Office Space Avail ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Director - Colour Marketing With direct reporting to the CEO/President, the COO will be responsible for True Religion Brand Chanel, Inc. is a premier manufacturer of world-renowned planning & directing all activities in the business operation and participate JEANS SHOWROOM fragrances and cosmetics. Our Beaute Marketing in the formulation of overall strategy, planning, and objectives for the company. Hiring for a Full-Time Sales Position. 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Marketing to communicate US perspective •An established track record leading organizations to operational excellence. and needs •Strong financial acumen with demonstrated success in project CAD-GRAPHICS-FABRIC PRINTING U4ia-Photoshp-Illustr: 212 679 6400 - Maintains consistent communications to ensure both teams management to drive profitable growth www.sanodesignservices.com are up to date on calendars and key initiatives Excellent pay, benefit and bonus plan. Reply to: [email protected] - Participates in and contributes to Makeup SMT work PATTERNS, SAMPLES, - Works with Intl. Marketing team to inform Display design PRODUCTIONS briefs Subscribe All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. - Works with Intl. Marketing team on new global Call Sherry 212-719-0622. sampling/collateral vehicles - Helps to drive development of Colour Marketing Plan. today! 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Please e-mail resume and cover letter in MS Word format to [email protected], attention Elena, or fax to [email protected] We offer a competitive salary & an excellent benefits package. 212-228-1938. Please include salary requirements. Chanel, Inc. is an Equal Opportunity Employer. If you are interested in this position, please apply via the following link: Advertising/Graphic http://tbe.taleo.net/NA1/ats/careers/jobSearch.jsp?or Design Assistant g=CHANEL&cws=1 Seeking an Advertising and Graphic Design Assistant who will be responsible for concept through execution of graphic projects, including, but not limited to: local store advertising, mar- keting materials and in store graphics. Must have 1-2 years in Graphic Design and full working knowledge of Adobe Creative Suite 2 (InDesign, Illustrator, Photoshop), Adobe Acrobat and a fa- Due to the Thanksgiving holiday, WWD will miliarity w/Microsoft Excel. 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Please email resume to: Search [email protected] PRODUCTION SPEC TECH hundreds of We are seeking a Production Spec Tech with 2-4 years of experience. DESIGNER Must have knowledge of garment con- Import Jr./Tween Co seeks Designer with positions in struction & capable of creating Tech minimum 3 years experience & profi- Packs. Key responsibilities include ciency in Illustrator and/or Photoshop. fashion, retail acting as a liaison between Design and Please Fax or E-mail resumes to Jon at: factories for fittings & communications. 212-730-2259 / [email protected] Must have excellent communication & and beauty. teaming skills. Please e-mail resume with subject header: Production: Design [email protected] Men’s Wear Designer Men’s fashion retailer based in China is actively seeking an exp’d. Young Men’s Fashion Head Designer/Merchandiser. production Must be able to design full collection & lead merchandising/marketing team Sr. Production Coordinator in China. 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PATTERNMAKER - 1st Luxury women’s apparel company Sales Rep seeks a 1st patternmaker with expertise Established West Coast print converter in women’s tailored clothing. Must be looking for very serious sales rep. Very able to create from sketch and drape. serious. Please fax resume to (213) 624- Please fax resume to : 212 -869-5795 8972, Attn: Ed Lieberman YEAR IN FASHION

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