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ABOUT SCOTTISH ROCK

Volume 2 North If you have an ambition to do all the climbs in these two the best Mountain, crag, sea cliff & Sport Climbing in scotland Volume 2 North Scottish Rock guides I think you’d better schedule time off in 3rd edition your next life. This labour of Gary’s has been of gargantuan proportions. Somewhere along the way he encountered a time A selected guide to over 2,550 routes in the North- Volume 2 warp and an initial target of 1,000 climbs over a period of two West, the Far North, the Hebrides and Orkney. years stretched to 4,500 in over a decade. Those of you who Volume 1 extends this area South of the Great Glen. use the guides will benefit by this dedication and the sheer These guides will take you to some extraordinary choice offered; if you divide the retail price of these by the places to experience some of the best rock climbing number of good routes you’ll realise you’ve got a bargain. and scrambling around. Explore the renowned Volume 1 covers a proliferation of Scottish crags up to the rough Cuillin gabbro on Skye, sample the delights natural demarcation of the Great Glen. They are easier of of sea cliff climbing on the islands of Lewis, Pabbay, access than most in Volume 2 and present infinite variety. Volume 1 Mingulay and Orkney. From convenient roadside Inevitably, with the march of time, progress and technique crags to remote mountain routes and Hebridean sea the freeing of many aid routes has come to pass and also the cliffs, they’re all here. somewhat tedious task of cleaning on abseil has resulted in some way-out excursions being revealed. Creag an Dubh-loch is a typical example. 3rd Edition I have been a long-time advocate of selected climbs and the Several recently-discovered venues have been use of photographs to illustrate both climbs and action. I’m added, including ‘Super Crag Sport’ and ‘Super Crag glad that this principle has been used throughout these two

Gary Latter. Photo Karen Latter. Gary Latter. Trad’, along with a host of easier additions at Diabaig. volumes. It gives you a push to get up and do things. Obviously On the islands, many recent additions on the popular Gary has had considerable time to think about layout, area Skye sea cliffs of Suidhe Biorach, Neist and Staffin Slip intros, etc; this has been achieved with commendable clarity South have been included. The superb rock on Lewis,

The Author Photo Karen Latter. Cover photo – Gary Latter on Crack of Ages, Seana Mheallan, Torridon. and lack of waffle. Pabbay and Mingulay has been well documented, with A native Scot, Gary Latter has climbed extensively throughout The Outer Hebrides receives due attention, such as the idyllic many new topos illustrating the wealth of wonderful Scotland for over four decades, pioneering hundreds of new rock playground of the Barra isles; summer sun, surf and climbing throughout a range of grades. routes of every standard throughout the Highlands and Islands, delectable Lewisian gneiss. Just a wee way north, in North Minor and less popular crags have been replaced, Volume 2 North including major new routes and early repeats in all the major 3 Harris, some of the intimidating routes at Sron Ulladale have,

freeing up space to include over 300 new routes, 60 rd climbing areas throughout the country. During the dozen or 3rd edition like Prometheus of legend, been freed of rock attachments.

new topos and more than 50 additional action photos. e so years researching and compiling these guides, he has 12 ISLE OF SKYE Further north, beyond the magic of Skye, in the Northern Isles personally visited and climbed on almost all the crags and cliffs dition 13 APPLECROSS even more crags are revealed such as Berry Head and St documented, amassing an extensive collection of photographs Featuring: 14 TORRIDON John’s Head. Here at this latitude in the simmer dim you can along the way. • Over 2,550 of the regions best routes from 15 GAIRLOCH really rock around the clock! The list seems endless and if you His favourite places in Scotland are the islands and the north Moderate difficulty to top-end Extremes. 16 COIGACH & ASSYNT succeed in doing half of them you’ll be a much better climber west – anywhere with the possibility of finding new unclimbed www.pesdapress.com • Accessible multi-pitch mountain 17 SUTHERLAND and know a lot more about Scotland – have a good decade! rock, secluded beaches, and hopefully some decent weather www.scottishrock.co.uk routes and scrambles. Gary Latter 18 Caithness Hamish MacInnes and nae midges! Amongst these, Mingulay, Pabbay and the ISBN 9781906095710 • Sport climbs from F5 to F8c. 90000 > 19 LEWIS & HARRIS small tidal island of Erraid, off Mull, are some of the most • 260 full colour photo topos. 20 PABBAY & MINGULAY memorable venues. • Scale area maps, highlighting the approaches. 21 ORKNEY UIAA PARTICIPATION STATEMENT

• Inspirational photographs, including “Climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger 9 781906 095710 many first ascents. of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities Gary Latter should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.” Lerwick

Overview Map Stromness Ticklist – Volume 1 & Volume 2 International Kirkwall Guidebook Symbols Grade Comparison Chart Volume 1 South Moderate  Black Mamba Vol1  Groovin’ High 98  Experimental Learning 60  Big John 461  The Man with the Child 21 01 iSle of ARRAN  A’Chir Ridge Vol1  Blank Vol1  Hoofer’s Route 414  Fire Walk With Me 60  Big Kenneth 438 in his Eyes Vol1 Scrabster 02 the ARROCHAR ALPS  Afterthought Arête Vol1  The Chasm Vol1  Jack the Ripper 225  Fulmar Squaw 418  Burning Desire 221  Marlene (F7c) Vol1 Aspect: Cardinal points for main Kinlochbervie  Castle Ridge Vol1  The Clean Sweep Vol1  King Cobra 48  Haystack Vol1  Cosmopolitan Vol1  Mega Tsunami 333 aH aA aB 17 Wick 03 iSle of MULL  Collie’s Route 33  Damnation Vol1  The Klondyker 42  Internationale 52  Cruisability Vol1  The Naked Ape Vol1 direction the cliff faces (as well Stornoway 18 04 GLEN COE & Glen Etive  Curved Ridge Vol1  The End Vol1  Mayday 427  Kingpin Vol1  Crystal Vision Vol1  Old El Pastits 149 Lochinver as all directions 'A'). aG aI aC  Dubhs Ridge 18  Fionn Buttress 169  Minus One Direct Vol1  Limpet Crack 364  Dreamline Vol1  The Origin of Species Vol1 U K a d je c tive U K te c h n i al F re nc h Am eri c a n AU S T ralia n UIAA * 16 05 ARDGOUR Tarbert 19 06 ARDNAMURCHAN  East Ridge, In Pin 26  Flannan Slab 352  Moac Wall 362  Monkey Man 293  GMB 460  The Prow Left Finish (F7c) 198 Ullapool  Pygmy Ridge Vol1  Grand Dièdre 45  The Needle Vol1  Neptune 365  Grime of the Century 376  The Run of the Arrow Vol1 aF aE aD Easy 07 GLEN NEVIS Difficult      Moderate F1 5.1 4 I 15 Grooved Arête Vol1 The Pause Vol1 The Otter’s The Guga 395 Tank Top 313 Difficult F2 5.2 6 II Uig GREAT GLEN FAULT 08 BEN NEVIS  Clach Glas-Bla Bheinn 16  Jabberwock Vol1  Pontoon Vol1 Breakfast Table Vol1  Hebridean Overtures 411  Time’s Arrow Vol1 14 09 CENTRAL HIGhLANDS  Final Selection Vol1  Jamie Jampot 21  Presumption 298  Over the Hill Vol1  In Profundum Lacu 393  Trajan's Column Vol1 Approach: As described from Very F2+ 5.3 III 13  The Great Ridge Vol1  June Crack Vol1  The Priest 411  Pinch Super Direct Vol1  Just a Little Tease Vol1  Walking on Air 226 8 12 11 Inverness 10 CAIRNGORMS af ae ad Difficult F3− 5.4 III+ Aberdeen  The Gutter Vol1  King Bee Vol1  The Sarclet Pimpernel 324  The Prozac Link 358  Kismet 383  The Wicked Vol1 the access parking places. On IV Aviemore 11 eaSTER ROSS  North Buttress Vol1  King Rat Vol1  Space Traveller Vol1  Quality Street Vol1  Lady Charlotte Vol1  Wild Country Vol1 Severe 4a F3 5.5 10 10 foot downhill, across level terrain ac ab IV+ Newtonmore  Quiver Rib Vol1  May Crack Vol1  Spring Squill 400  Roring Forties 457  Ling Dynasty 97  Wild Side 173 HS 4b F3+ 5.6 12 Castlebay 08 Ballater Mallaig  Tower Ridge Vol1  Mosque Vol1  Too Young for a Gladiator 426  Skydiver Direct Vol1  Little Miss Sitting Pretty 418 E7 or uphill. Additional approach V− 07 HIGHLAND Volume 2 North 20 Braemar BOUNDARY Very Difficult  The Mousetrap Vol1  Trapeze Vol1  Spock 41  The Lost Ark Vol1  101 Damnations 406 am an VS 4c F4 5.7 14 V 06 05 Fort William 09 FAULT 12 iSLE OF SKYE symbols for steeply uphill  Agag’s Groove Vol1  The Old Wall Vol1  Trophy Crack 35  Sumo 98  Mucklehouse Wall 458  Aphrodite Vol1 5.8 V+ 13 APPLECROSS 16 04 Aberfeldy  Arrow Route 33  Original Route, Stoer 275  Unicorn Vol1  Temple of Doom Vol1  On the Beach Vol1  Arcadia Vol1 (scrambling), abseil approach, use HVS 5a F5 5.9 VI− Craignure  Crianlarich 14 TORRIDON Assault Slab 148  Phantom Slab Vol1  West Flank Route Vol1  Titan’s Wall Vol1  The Orange Bow 174  Axiom (F8a) Vol1 F5+ 5.10a 18 VI of bicycles or small boat/kayak. Oban Callander Dundee  Cioch Nose 87  Proud Corner Vol1  Yo-yo Vol1  The Torridonian 106  The Pabbay Express 273  Bravura 396 03 Perth 15 GAIRLOCH Arrochar  Crypt Route Vol1  Resurrection Vol1 E2  Uhura 40  Paralysis by  The Chisel 384 E1 5b F6a 16 COIGACH & ASSYNT Stirling  North-East Buttress Vol1  The Rut Vol1  Alice Springs Vol1  Vincent Vol1 Analysis (F7a+) Vol1  Dalriada Vol1 E2 5c F6a+ 5.10b VI+ 02 Sea cliff exposure: Tidal (cliff 17 SUTHERLAND  19 Observatory Ridge Vol1  Salamander Vol1  Angel Face 96  Voyage of Faith 434  Puffing Crack 341  The End of Innocence Vol1 ag 5.10c VII− 18 Caithness  Recess Route Vol1  Scabbard Vol1  Anger and Lust Vol1  Whispering Crack 63  The Raven 407  Every Cormorant is a exposed to waves and the base 20 19 lewiS & HARRIS  Savage Slit Vol1  Shangri-La 38  Bardo Thodol 313 E4  The Risk Business Vol1 Potential Shag 391 Edinburgh of routes may flood at high tide). F6b 5.10d VII 01 Ardrossan Glasgow 20 paBBAY & MINGULAY  Sou’wester Slabs Vol1  South Ridge Direct Vol1  The Bernera Prow 334  Abraxas Vol1  Rory Rum  Fascist Groove Thang 97 E3 F6b+ 5.11a 21  Squareface Vol1  Spartan Slab Vol1  Bloodlust Direct 298  Acapulco Vol1 the Story Man 438  Fated Path (F7c+) Vol1 Semi-tidal (parts of the cliff may VII+ Brodick Prestwick 21 ORKNEY  Tystie Slab 240  Spider Right-Hand Vol1  Buena Vista 154  The Banana Groove Vol1  Saving up for  The Fat Groove (F8a+) Vol1 ai F6c 5.11b 22 be exposed from time to time).  The Wabe Vol1  Sunset Slab &  The Bug 161  The Big Lick 375 a Rainy Day Vol1  The Great Escape Vol1 VIII− 0 50km E4 6a F6c+ 5.11c 0 30 miles  Wallwork’s Route 36 Yellow Groove 42  Geriatrics 298  Captain Oates 338  The Screaming  Greatness and Non-tidal (dry sea cliff routes 23 BENCHMARK GRADES Severe  The Sword of Gideon 89  The Hill Vol1  The Clearances Vol1 Weem (F7a+) Vol1 Perfection Vol1 above high water mark). ah F7a 5.11d VIII  Archer Ridge Direct Vol1  Wether Wall/  Jump So High Direct Vol1  Covenant Vol1  Sheer Sear 54  Kidnapped Vol1 E5 24 Below is a table of ‘benchmark routes’ typifying the  Auld Nick Vol1 Whither Wether Vol1  Lady Jane Vol1  Cupid’s Bow Vol1  Ship of Fools 399  Longhope Route 462 F7a+ 5.12a  Cave Route Vol1  Yir Vol1  The Long Reach Vol1  Elysium/Spit in Paradise 396  Spirit Air 162  Many a Mickle VIII+ classic route of any particular grade, with routes Bird restrictions: Nesting raptors  Cioch West 30 HVS  Northumberland Wall 118  Expecting to Fly 226  Stairway to Heaven 15 makes a Muckle 458 6b F7b 5.12b 25 aj considered mild, standard and hard within that grade.  Flamingo 302  A Likely Story Vol1  Outspan Vol1  Freak-Out Vol1  The Storm 370  Mega Tsunami – Prow or rare birds. IX− E6 F7b+ 5.12c 26  January Jigsaw Vol1  Amethyst Pillar Vol1  The Pale Dièdre 99  The Fuhrer Vol1  Thor Vol1 Finish (F7b) 333 Nesting seabirds. aak F7c 5.12d 27 IX mild standard hard mild standard hard  Mullennium Vol1  The Arch Deacon 424  The Pillar 114  Mother's Pride 23  The True Edge Vol1  North by North-West 132  North Face Route Vol1      M Curved Ridge Collie’s Route Afterthought Arête E2 The Pillar Steeple Shibboleth & True Finish Bald Eagle 136 The Pincer Vol1 (My Own) Personal Tweetie Pie Slalom 364 Off the F7c+ 5.13a 28 IX+ A’Chir Ridge Dubhs Ridge Pygmy Ridge Torro Club Crack The Bat  Number 3 373  Blankist Vol1  Plague of Blazes Vol1 Mingulay 273  Uncertain Beaten Track (F8a) Vol1 Wire brush: Route may require E7 6c F8a 5.13b 29 Broad Buttress East Ridge, In Pin Castle Ridge Geriatrics Plague of Blazes Warfarin  Punster's Crack Vol1  Bludger's Revelation Vol1  Prophecy of Drowning 411  The New Testament Vol1 Emotions (F7b) Vol1  Otto 259 al X−  Route II Vol1  Bridging Interest 68  The Quarryman 466  The Ocean of Air Finish 435  Voyage of the Beagle Vol1  Out of This World Vol1 prior cleaning on abseil (any stars F8a+ 5.13c 30 D Tower Ridge The Gutter The Great Ridge E3 Internationale Temple of Doom Quality Street  Secretaries' Direct Vol1  The Bullroar Vol1  Shiboleth and True Finish Vol1  Osiris Vol1  The Wise Hoy Hawk 458  Perfect Monsters 433 X assume the route is clean). North Buttress Final Selection Quiver Rib Ruff Licks Delayed Attack Dream Ticket  Tall Pall 301  Centurion Vol1  Shoot the Breeze 102  Peel’s Wall Vol1  Zen Vol1  The Realm E8 F8b 5.13d 31 Clach Glas-Bla Bheinn Crackattack Titan’s Wall Edgehog X+ HS  Direct Nose Route 222  Steeple Vol1  Rat Race Vol1 E6 of the Senses Vol1  Ardverikie Wall Vol1  Double Overhang Vol1  Sula 435  Rayburnt 428  The Ambassadors 272  The Scoop 384 F8b+ 5.14a 32 VD North-East Buttress Agag’s Groove Cioch Nose E4 Freak-Out Osiris Cupid’s Bow 7a Observatory Ridge Squareface Savage Slit Rat Race Mother’s Pride The Banana Groove  Black Gold 241  Gob 173  Torridown Man 112  Ray of Light 433  Arms Limitation (F7b+) Vol1  The Silk Purse (F7c+) Vol1 E9 F8c 5.14b 33 XI− Tystie Slab Sou’wester Slabs Arrow Route The Fuhrer Sugar Cane Country The New Testament  Butterknife Vol1  Hammer Vol1  Torro Vol1  Ring of Fire Right-Hand Vol1  The Bonxie 394  Skye Wall 19 Stars: Give an assessment of the quality of the route. E10  Central Crack Vol1  Illegal Alien 409  Town Without Pity 221  Roslin Riviera Vol1  Cannibal Vol1  The Sleeping Crack Vol1 F8c+ 5.14c 34 One star – a recommended route on the crag. S Great Ridge Direct Start January Jigsaw Integrity E5 Lady Charlotte Thor Cosmopolitan  Commando Crack 44  Inbred Vol1  U-ei 397  Sans Fer/  Death-Wolf 171  Spitfire (F8a+) Vol1 XI 7b Cioch West Archer Ridge Direct Eagle Ridge Rest and be Thankful Ling Dynasty Slartibartfast  Eagle Ridge Vol1  The Magic Crack Vol1  Victory Crack Vol1 Iron in the Soul Vol1  Dragonhead 469  Toast 23 Two stars – a great route for the area. F9a 5.14d 35 North Face Route Punster's Crack Ardverikie Wall The Risk Business The Raven Agrippa XI+  Fall-Out Corner Vol1  Route Two 117  Warfarin Vol1  The Screamer 260  Dream the Dhearg Goch 417  Undertow 239 Three stars – an outstanding route.  Grey Slab Vol1  Secret Service 51  Wish You Were Here 70  Spaced Out Rockers… 254  Edge of Extinction Vol1 E8 F9a+ 5.15a 36 VS Butterknife Spartan Slab Whither Wether E6 Edge of Extinction Cannibal Wild Country The Clean Sweep The Long Climb Djibangi The Improbability Drive The Bonxie Kelpie  Integrity 35  Slochd Wall Vol1 E3  Stone of Destiny (F6c+) Vol1  Eyeball's Out (F7b+) Vol1  The End of Innocence Vol1 Four stars – an absolute 'must do'.  Islivig Direct 377  The Snake 39  Black Spout Wall Vol1  Suffering Bastard 361  Flodden Vol1  The Great Arch 412 * Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme Rainmaker South Ridge Direct The Chasm Flodden Major-domo The Screaming Abdabs  Kubla Khan Vol1  Storm Vol1  Bungee Vol1  Sugar Cane Country 415  Geomancer 399  Icon of Lust Vol1 HVS Route Two The Magic Crack The Bullroar E7 Buddha Romantic Reality The Realm of the Senses  Nirvana Wall Vol1  Vulcan Wall 41  Call of the Sea 436  Walk Like an Egyptian 247  Golgothic (F7c) 165  Kidnapped Vol1 Deep Water Soloing: The Snake Bludger’s Revelation Centurion The Scoop Aphrodite Longhope Route  Open Secret 136 E1  Case Dismissed Vol1  Wall of Flame 118  The Handren Effect Vol1  One Hundred Years of The UK trad grading system gives an adjective and a technical Vulcan Wall Storm A Likely Story Dalriada Arcadia Fascist Groove Thang  Pine Wall Vol1  Apparition Vol1  Delayed Attack Vol1  Walter Wall Vol1  Hybrid Vigour Vol1 Solitude 174 S0 Safe at most tides or crux not too high. grade. The adjectival grade gives an idea of the overall  Shark Crack 299  The Big Top Vol1  Desire Direct 239  Wilderness 173  The Improbability Drive Vol1  Out of This World Vol1 E1 Minus One Direct The Big Top Yo-Yo S1 Care required or moderately high crux. difficulty, a measure of how sustained the climbing and of how Dragon Unicorn The Needle  The Talisman Vol1  The Black Streak 118  Diamond Cutter Vol1 E5  Kelpie Vol1  Steall Worker (F8b) Vol1 Trophy Crack Grey Panther King Cobra  Tidemark Vol1  Dragon 171  Dream Ticket 131  The Ancient Mariners 394  K & S Special 417  Stolen (F8b) Vol1 S2 More care required or crux higher up. well protected it is. The technical grade is the difficulty of the VS  The Golden Fleece 258  Edgehog Vol1  The Ascent of Man Vol1  Mac Talla (F7b) 198  Symbiosis Vol1 S3 Serious – water too shallow or too far away! hardest move or short section on the climb.  Anthrax Flake 205  Grey Panther 52  Endolphin Rush 400  Beri-Beri 454  Major-domo 193 Volume 2 North 3rd edition

Third Edition 2020 Second Edition 2014 First published in Great Britain 2009 by Pesda Press Tan y Coed Canol, Ceunant, Caernarfon, Gwynedd LL55 4RN Wales

The Author asserts the moral right to be identified as the author of this work.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the Publisher.

Maps by Bute Cartographics. Printed and bound in Poland, www.hussarbooks.pl Gary Latter 2 Contents

Contents

INTRODUCTION 4 An t-Aigeach 76 Flowerdale Wall 138 Lochan Dubh Crag 192 Bay 1 77 The Left Dome 139 GRUINARD RIVER CRAGS 194 Bay 2 77 ISLE OF SKYE 10 Creag Nan Cadhag 140 Goat Crag 195 Bay 3 78 RAVEN’S CRAG 142 Am Fasgadh 199 BLA BHEINN 14 Headland 79 CARN GORAIG 201 The Great Prow 14 Bay 4 80 AZTEC TOWER 144 CLACH GLAS 16 Cumhann Geodha 80 GRASS CRAG 145 JETTY BUTTRESS 204 CORUISK 17 Conductor Cove 81 LOCH TOLLAIDH CRAGS 146 MUNGASDALE CRAG 208 Mad Burn Buttress 17 Lighthouse Wall 82 Raven’s Nest 147 Coruisk Hut Crag 18 Foghorn Cove 82 The Ewe Walls 148 COIGACH & Sgurr Dubh Mor 18 Gairloch Wall 149 ASSYNT 210 Coir’-Uisg Buttress 19 The Curra Wall 150 APPLECROSS 84 ARDMAIR Crags 213 Dinosaur Wall 151 SUIDHE BIORACH 20 Sgurr A’ Chaorachain 86 Laggavoulin Buttress 213 Fraggle Rock 151 SGURR NAN GILLEAN 24 A’ Chioch 86 Monster Buttress 214 Siren Slab 153 South Face 89 Dancing Buttress 215 AM BASTEIR 25 The Cloiche Wall 153 Beast Buttress 216 SGURR DEARG 26 Feoir Buttress 153 TORRIDON 92 Edinburgh Rock 217 The Inaccessible Pinnacle 26 Hidden Crag 154 BEINN EIGHE 94 Airs Rock 218 SRON NA CICHE 28 CREAG MHOR Coire Mhic Fhearchair 94 Big Roof Buttress 218 Western Buttress 29 THOLLAIDH 155 Far East Wall 95 SGURR AN FHIDLEIR 222 Cioch Buttress 30 Creag nan Luch 155 The Eastern Ramparts 99 Cioch & Cioch Slab 32 Upper Tier 156 STAC POLLAIDH 223 The Triple Buttresses 100 Cioch Upper Buttress 35 Lower Tollie Crag 157 West Buttress 223 Eastern Buttress 37 SEANA MHEALLAN 103 Upper Tollie Crag 161 No. 2 Buttress 227 Glach Dhorch 103 No. 3 Buttress 229 SGURR SGUMAIN 41 Loch Maree Crag 162 Western Sector 107 Super Crag Sport 164 The REIFF sea cliffs 230 COIR’ A’ GHRUNNDA 43 CREAG NAM LEUMNACH 111 FISHERFIELD 166 The Stone Pig Cliff 231 SGURR MHIC CHOINNICH 46 DIABAIG 113 ROINN A’ MHILL 234 Coireachan Ruadha Face 46 CREAG NA GAORACH 166 The Pillar 114 Pinnacle Area 234 Bealach Buttress 48 BEINN LAIR 167 The Little Big Wall 115 Bouldering Cliff 238 KILT ROCK AREA 50 The Main Cliff 116 CARN MOR 168 Black Rocks 240 Kilt Rock 51 The Con Dome 120 CARNAN BAN 176 AN STIUIR 242 South of Tempest Buttress 53 The South Wall 121 Barndance Slabs 176 Seal Song Area 242 Tempest Buttress 53 DIabaig Maiden Buttress 177 The Minch Wall 245 Chimney Stack Area 54 PENINSULA CRAGS 124 GRUINARD CRAGS 179 The Bay of Pigs 246 Fallen Pillars Area 55 Ugly Crag 124 Birch Crag 180 Piglet Wall 248 STAFFIN SLIP Crofters Crag 124 Beach Crag 181 Pooh Cliff 248 BUTTRESSES 56 Rolling Wall 125 Post Crag 182 RUBHA COIGEACH 249 Staffin Slip North 57 Bog Meadow Wall 182 Golden Walls 249 Staffin Slip South 57 GAIRLOCH 126 Road Crag 183 Black Magic Wall 252 RUBHA HUNISH 61 Gruinard Crag 184 BEINN A’ MHUINIDH 129 Slab Inlet 252 Meall Tuath 61 Car Park Slabs – Waterfall Buttress 129 Platform Walls 253 Meall Deas 62 Flake Buttress 186 The Bonaid Dhonn 130 Rampant Wall 254 NEIST Point 64 Very Difficult Slabs 187 STONE VALLEY CRAGS 133 SPACED OUT Upper Crag – South Sector 65 The Side Wall 187 Atlantic Wall 133 ROCKERS CLIFF 255 Financial Sector 66 Triangular Slab 188 Rum Doodle Crag 134 THE LEANING Tower Gully Buttress 71 Inverianvie Crag 188 Viking Crag 134 BLOCK CLIFFS 257 The Green Lady 71 Dog Crag 189 Red Wall Crag 135 Poverty Point 72 Riverside Slabs 191 AMPHITHEATRE BAY 261 Stone Valley Crag 136 Destitution Point 74 The Apron 191 Jigsaw Wall Point 262 Playtime Walls 138 Contents 3

Karin Magog on the steep Cross-Eyed up the edge of The Leaning Block, Rubha Coigeach, Reiff, Coigach & Assynt with the Assynt hills presenting a stunning backdrop.

RUBHA PLOYTACH 262 CAITHNESS 314 Tealasdale Slabs 377 ORKNEY 452 INBHIRPOLLAIDH LATHERONWHEEL 315 SRON ULLADALE 380 HOY 454 ROCK GYM 265 Peninsula Wall 316 THE NEEDLE 454 SUPER CRAG TRAD 267 Big Flat Wall 318 PABBAY THE BERRY 454 OLD MAN OF STOER 274 The Stack Area 319 & MINGULAY 386 RORA HEAD 455 SARCLET 321 PABBAY 388 Lang (Number 1) Geo 456 Pudding Stone Buttress 322 SUTHERLAND 276 BIG BLOCK SLOC 389 Geo 3 457 Occam’s Buttress 322 ROADSIDE CRAGS 279 Mucklehouse Wall 457 Big Buttress 323 THE BAY AREA 390 Ridgway View Crag 280 Djapana Buttress 325 PINK & GREY WALLS 392 OLD MAN OF HOY 459 The Balcony 281 Surfer Buttress 325 The Pink Wall 392 ST. JOHN’S HEAD 461 Four Lochans View Crag 283 Tilted Ledge 326 The Grey Wall 395 Rhiconich Crag 283 YESNABY 464 STACK OF OLD WICK 327 Grey Wall Recess 396 Point Wall 465 CREAG GHARBH MhOR 285 BANDED WALL 398 Tower Face 466 Red Wall 285 The Shield 401 Arch Wall 467 Glaciated Slab 286 LEWIS & HARRIS 328 South Face 403 Gardyloo Wall 469 Red Slab 286 CRULABHIG CRAG 330 RUBHA GREOTACH 405 The False Stack 470 CREAG AN FHITHICH 287 CREAG LIAM 332 The Galley 405 Castle of Yesnaby Area 471 Grey Wall 287 BEINN NA BERIE 336 The Poop Deck 406 Spectators Geo 472 Ruby Wall 288 AIRD UIG AREA 337 The Loose Headland 473 Russet Wall 289 THE GREAT ARCH 410 Geodha Gunna 337 Triangular Buttress 290 ALLANISH PENINSULA 413 Geodha Ruadh 339 Acknowledgements 474 Back Stage 290 Hoofer’s Geo 413 The Boardwalk Walls 340 Route Index 475 SHEIGRA 291 MINGULAY 416 THE PAINTED WALL Area 344 The First Geo 292 The Painted Wall 345 CREAG DHEARG 417 The Second Geo 297 Torasgeo 347 GUARSAY BEAG 419 Treasure Island Wall 300 Shag's Point 419 Na Stacain Area 301 FLANNAN AREA 348 Aurora Geo 348 GUARSAY MOR 420 AM BUACHAILLE 303 Magic Geo 351 The Boulevard 420 SANDWOOD BAY CRAGS 304 The Black Wall 353 The North Pillar 423 FOINAVEN 307 Mitre Wall 354 The Great Arch 424 Cnoc a’ Mhadaidh 308 ARD MORE MANGERSTA 355 The Arena 424 The South Pillar 426 Creag Urbhard 308 MANGERSTA 355 First Dionard Buttress 310 The Undercut Wall 427 Second Dionard Buttress 311 Geodha AN TAROIN 362 Cobweb Wall 430 CREAG SHOMHAIRLE 311 DALBEG 364 DUN MINGULAY 432 Dalbeg Buttress 364 Sron an Duin 432 Cave Slab 365 RUBHA LIATH 441 Black Geo 366 Seal Song Geo 441 Small West Wall 366 The Point 446 Big West Wall 369 Preacher Geo 369 THE GEIRUM WALLS 447 Storm Geo 370 Hidden Wall 447 The Platform Wall 447 AIRD MHOR BHRAGAIR 371 The Main Walls 448 Folded Wall 371 CREAG DUBH DIBADALE 374 CREAGAN TEALASDALE 376 GRIOMAVAL 377 4 Introduction Scottish Rock

The area covered by this book, the Highlands and Islands, harbour the only multi-day big wall route in the country lies entirely to the north of the Highland Boundary Fault. – the 23 pitch Longhope Route; the steepest cliff (Sron With its mountain landscapes, deep glens, lochs, rivers Ulladale, Harris). But size isn’t everything. In contrast, a and hundreds of islands, it represents one of the most myriad of miniature sport routes have appeared in recent extensive and least populated semi-natural areas remain- years, together with a resurgence of interest in outcrop ing in Western Europe. Scotland can also lay claim to the climbing in general. There has also been the opening only true areas of ‘wilderness’ remaining in Britain, with up of some wonderfully situated bouldering venues, vast tracts of uninhabited areas in the far North West, together with exquisite deep-water soloing on a few and the similarly wild and unspoilt high arctic plateaux esoteric locations. of the Cairngorm massif. Often, by choosing your venue This book is intended as a celebration of the wealth and carefully, it is possible not just to avoid queues but to variety of great climbing that Scotland has to offer. The have whole mountains to yourself. selection of routes should have something for everyone, Within this incredibly varied setting can be found from the athlete to the aesthete. Climbing in Scotland is stunning examples of every sub-sport that rock climbing about more than the rock alone; there is the magnificent has evolved. In UK terms, we have the longest mountain and awe-inspiring scenery, the sense of history, the routes (such as The Long Climb on Ben Nevis); the wide open spaces, the clean fresh air and the possibility biggest sea cliffs (St John’s Head, Hoy), which also of solitude.

USing THE GUIDE All the areas covered are described as approaching consistent route, and an alternative grade is offered. On from the south, where the majority of visitors originate. a few harder routes, usually unrepeated, rest points were Similarly, the routes are also laid out in the order they used and this is mentioned in the hope of encouraging are encountered from the approach. Each area has an subsequent free ascents. PR and PB refer to peg runner introduction outlining the style of climbing, together with and belay respectively; F and R to friends and rocks; BB detailed up-to-date information on Accommodation and LO refer to bolt belays and lower-offs on the sport and Amenities – in short everything the visitor requires crags. TIC stands for Tourist Information Centre; ATM for to familiarise themselves with an area. Each cliff or crag Automated Teller Machine. is described in summary, together with specific Access, You should have the relevant Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 Approach and Descent details clearly laid out. In map and, particularly for the remoter mountain crags, addition, maps and photo-diagrams illustrate further. knowledge of how to use a map and compass is assumed. Routes are given an overall technical grade alongside The middle of the Cairngorms or the top of Ben Nevis is the adjectival grade, with the individual pitch grades not the place to attempt to learn to navigate. The Grid incorporated within the description. The abbreviations Reference and Altitude refers to the base of the cliff FA and FFA refer to the first ascent and first free ascent or crag. The approach times quoted are intended as a respectively. PA refers to the number of points of aid general guide (racing greyhounds and ramblers/tortoises used on the first ascent. There are very few routes can make their own adaptations accordingly), along the containing aid in this book, though in some instances lines of Naismith’s Rule (4.5km per hour and one minute the use of a couple of points of aid may give a more for every 10m of ascent). Introduction 5

Access I have attempted to consult as many active climbers in The Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 gives statutory Scotland as possible to get a broad range of opinions access rights to most land and inland water. These rights and a consensus on grades and quality, but the final exist only if exercised responsibly by respecting the selection of routes is a personal one. For instance, not privacy, safety and livelihoods of others and by looking all the routes are on immaculate rock, with some of the after the environment. The Scottish Outdoor Access Code older routes in the traditional character-building mode. (www.outdooraccess-scotland.scot) provides detailed Jim Bell’s famous adage, "Any fool can climb good rock. guidance on the responsibilities of those exercising It takes craft and cunning to get up vegetatious schist or access rights and those managing land and water. granite." may be worth bearing in mind. • Take responsibility for your own actions and act safely. • Respect people’s privacy. Accommodation • Assist land managers to work safely and effectively. Information on a range of budget accommodation is • Care for the environment and take any litter home. included for each area, from camp sites and youth • Keep all dogs under proper control. hostels to private bunkhouses. There are also a number • Take extra care if organising an event or running a of well-situated mountaineering club huts in all the business. main mountain areas. These are available for booking by members of Mountaineering Scotland, the BMC and Wild Camping affiliated clubs. In addition, Tourist Information Centres In the rural areas it is often possible to camp at the (TICs) are detailed at the start of each main area. These side of the road. If in doubt, ask permission locally from are a good source of information on bed and breakfast, farmers and crofters. Remember to remove all your litter, guest house and hotel accommodation. Visit Scotland all trace of your tent pitch and not to cause any pollution. publishes regional brochures covering accommodation It should almost always be possible to camp in the hills, and visitor information. These are available free of except perhaps in some areas during the stalking season. charge from any of the TICs across Scotland or as ebrochures from www.visitscotland.com. Caravans Those wishing to bring caravans please don’t – go to Eating Out the Lakes, the Borders or some other rolling hills well One important point worth bearing in mind, (especially away from the Highlands and Islands. Even better, for those used to continental and transatlantic hospital- stay at home and play tiddlywinks or golf, or take up ity) is that the majority of Scotland still lurks in the dark macramé or embroidery or some other suitably sedate ages when it comes to the service industry. Most pubs pastime. Alternatively, travel under the cover of darkness, only serve food over a short period at lunchtime; often preferably at 3am on a Sunday morning. 12 – 2pm, and more importantly, the majority of pubs and hotels stop serving food at 9pm, some at 8pm even! Birds I’ve had the misfortune to turn up at a restaurant/pub Some of the sea cliffs are affected by nesting seabirds in Skye (in July, the height of the tourist season) to be and should be avoided during the nesting season of informed "We’re not serving food: the chef’s on his lunch" April – July inclusive. Almost all birds, their nests and – unbelievable. Establishments that are particularly eggs are protected. The proliferation of guano on such good and worth seeking out are highlighted within the cliffs makes it in the climber’s interest to choose another introductory section of each relevant chapter. venue. In particular, some popular routes, such as the Old Man of Stoer and Hoy, have the occasional fulmar nest 6 Introduction

on ledges, and it is definitely in the climber’s interest to such as private and forest roads or rights of way, not soft avoid close encounters, as they have the nasty habit of paths and open hillsides where considerable erosion vomiting semi-digested fish oil onto uninvited visitors. It can occur. Where there is a substantial time-saving should still, however, be possible to climb these routes advantage, such information is included in the approach during the nesting season. In the unlikely event of coming information. Where repeated abseils from trees is the across birds of prey (especially peregrine falcons, golden norm (such as on Creag Dhubh), slings and karabiners or white tailed sea eagles – all Schedule 1 birds) choose or maillons have been left in place, and their use is another route or cliff. It is an offence, under the Wildlife encouraged to prevent ringing of the bark, leading to and Countryside Act 1981, to disturb any Schedule 1 bird, the eventual demise of the trees. Always park with with an unlimited fine, up to 6 months imprisonment or consideration for others, and avoid damage to fences both. Their continued existence is surely more important and walls. And of course, as the country code stresses, than another tick in the guidebook? Information on avoid ’interfering‘ with animals (Aberdonians and Rick current restrictions is available from Mountaineering Campbell take note!). Do not leave any litter, including Scotland (01738 493942; www.mountaineering.scot). food scraps, finger tape, chalk wrappers and cigarette ends and remove any left by others. Bury or burn toilet Seasonal Restrictions paper. Scratching arrows or names at the base of routes The grouse shooting season is from 12 August (the can clearly be viewed in a modern light as nothing short ‘glorious’ twelfth) – 10 December and deer from 1 July of vandalism. Established markings are mentioned to aid – 20 October for stags and 21 October – 15 February for identification, and it is hoped no further additions will be hinds. More information at www.outdooraccess-scotland. thought necessary. Many of the areas covered are within scot. There are few crags or cliffs included where access National Scenic Areas (NSA), National Nature Reserves problems have been encountered in the past. A caring, (NNR) and Sites of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI), responsible attitude towards parking, litter, conservation controlling development and ensuring the retention and and a polite approach to landowners should ensure preservation of the natural environment. that the present situation continues. If any difficulties are encountered, contact the access officer at access@ Style, Pegs & in situ protection mountaineering.scot. No commercial stalking takes place "Ethics change the experience for others, style only on National Trust for Scotland properties (such as Glen changes your own personal experience." Coe and Torridon), ensuring access at all times. The use of chalk is no longer a burning issue. Nevertheless, its use should be kept to a minimum, Directions hopefully only on extremes. Chalk has been spotted on All directions (left and right) are given for climbers facing descent routes (I kid you not) and on VDiffs, such as the crag, except in descent. Any ambiguous descriptions Agag’s Groove, which must be an ultimate low point. also include a compass point, but if you don’t know your Hold improvement is unacceptable on natural rock. If left from your right, chances are you won’t have a clue you can’t climb a piece of rock with the holds available, where the North Pole lies. leave it unclimbed rather than resort to the hammer and chisel. The use of hammered nuts should be discouraged, Conservation as their rapid deterioration soon blocks the placement Try to adopt a minimum impact approach at all times, possibilities for subsequent ascentionists. leaving the place as you would like to find it. Approaches Whilst the style a route is climbed in is a personal one, to some of the cliffs can be greatly aided by the use of I feel obliged to make a few comments. The use of ’rest bicycles. Their use should be restricted to solid paths points‘ (i.e. aid) and prior top-roping should be reserved Introduction 7

for routes that are pushing new frontiers. It is true to say the hills just south of Torridon. In the mountains an that such tactics percolate downwards. Try to give the annual precipitation of between 200 – 300cm and more rock a fighting chance, and approach the route on its own is the norm, these dreich figures dropping markedly to terms, in accordance with local practices. The majority 150 – 200cm on the coastal fringe. Within this broad belt of active pioneers in Scotland have attempted to push there is much variation. As an example, at Dundonnell standards, and many very audacious leads have been at the head of Little Loch Broom the annual rainfall is achieved on-sight or ground up. 195cm; 10km south it is 250cm, and 10km further north in Ullapool the average is 150cm. Quality Assessment The coastal promontories, especially in the north, and I had originally intended to adopt the Farquhar rating the Outer Hebrides receive only 130 – 170cm. Similarly, system, with its two extremes of PS and FB, but as low ground around the Cairngorms and the eastern hopefully there are no ‘pure sh≈@‡' routes herein edge of the Central Highlands (such as Craig a Barns (unless included for historical interest, or to aid in crag and The Pass of Ballater) benefit from the rain shadow descriptions) and masses of ‘#µ©k*≈g brilliant’ routes, effect of the hills further west (80 – 100cm). The I have decided to opt for the conventional star rating higher ground in the Cairngorms receive around half system, with three star routes being of truly outstanding the precipitation than the hills just in from the main quality. As the climbing in Scotland is clearly superior Atlantic seaboard, with an average of 225cm recorded to anything south of the border, a few exceptional on Cairn Gorm summit. Lying in the centre of the country, routes have the honour of four stars. These are absolute their climate is more continental, with warmer summers ‘must do’s’ that would rate amongst the best anywhere on than on the coasts. Many districts in the north and the planet, such is their undeniable brilliance. On a few east have, on average over the four summer months isolated routes, a wire brush symbol denotes that the from May – August, a total rainfall of less than 40cm, route may require prior cleaning in its present state, and comparing favourably with the drier parts of England. the stars assume the route is in a clean state. These are Throughout the country the driest and sunniest period routes which were originally climbed following cleaning is from May to the end of June, the next driest from on abseil, but at the time of writing have not had much mid-September to mid-October. repeat traffic, and may require a quick abseil with a wire In the Outer Hebrides gales are recorded on over 40 brush prior to an ascent. days of the year, and in the Northern Isles this figure is even greater, though most of these occur in the winter. Climate Prolonged spells of strong wind are uncommon between "They’ll all be doing them when the sun comes out." May and August. Especially in the Western Isles and – Don Whillans. along the west coast, May is the sunniest month, closely The Highlands and Islands are dominated by the followed by June. April is sunnier than the popular prevailing southwesterly winds, bringing moist and holiday months of July and August. The temperatures usually mild air from the Atlantic. In addition, many of on the west coast and the islands are generally a couple the Atlantic depressions pass close to or over Scotland. of degrees cooler than inland, with the Northern Isles a "It always rains up there" is a commonly held myth. It is couple of degrees cooler again. Finally, in midsummer easy at first sight to confuse a map of annual rainfall there is no complete darkness in the north of Scotland, with that of a relief map, for the two are closely linked. with Shetland receiving about 4 hours more daylight The wettest belt extends from the Cowal peninsula (including twilight) than London. (south and west of Arrochar) in a broad band as far as 8 Introduction

Tidal Information Tick, AKA "wee bastard!" In general, the tide ebbs and flows twice daily. As a rough guide, the tide takes 6 hours to come in, spends a half an hour 'on the turn', then 6 hours to recede, before repeating the same process. Spring tides occur after a new and full moon, and have the greatest amplitude. Tide tables are published annually for specific areas and are available from yacht chandlers and in many newsagents, or from harbour offices. Tidal predictions up to 7 days in advance also available at www.tidetimes.co.uk.

Weather Information Radio: BBC Radio Scotland broadcasts an outdoor conditions forecast daily at 18.25 weekdays and 07.00 & 19.00 at weekends, in addition to general forecasts at the end of each news bulletin. TV: BBC Reporting Scotland broadcasts a good general forecast daily at 18.50 weekdays, 17.25 on Saturdays and 18.25 on Sundays. speeds above a slight breeze force them to seek shelter. Online: www.bbc.co.uk/weather provides a detailed Mosquitoes are less of a problem, though the cleg (or weather forecast including details for the week ahead, horsefly) feeds mainly during warm bright days. Finally, coastal forecasts and tide tables. In addition to the above sheep or deer ticks, small black or brown round-bodied www.metoffice.gov.uk provides daily mountain forecasts, members of the genus arachnid rest on vegetation, as does www.mwis.org.uk, which issues a detailed 3-day awaiting a host. The tick sinks its head into the victim’s forecast daily at approximately 16.30. Another popular flesh, until it eventually swells up and drops off. Ticks in option is the Norwegian website www.yr.no. the UK regularly carry Lyme Disease, a potentially serious infection, so they should be removed as soon as possible. Wee Bastards Remove with a tick removal tool or tweezers and apply Little biting creatures, which the vast majority of tourist- antiseptic cream. If flu-like symptoms persist after a tick orientated brochures and guidebooks fail to mention, can bite, you should see a doctor immediately. Avoid ticks make a massive difference to one’s stay in the Highlands by keeping your arms and legs covered if possible; wear and Islands. Of the thirty-four species of biting midge light-coloured fabrics so you can see them easily; spray found in Scotland, only four or five species bite humans. clothing and shoes with the repellent permethrin, such By far the worst and most prevalent, accounting for more as Lifesystems EX4, available from outdoor retailers; than 90 percent of all bites to humans is the female of the read about correct tick removal and always carry a tick species Culicoides impunctatus, or the Highland Midge. remover. For more information: www.lymediseaseuk. This voracious creature first makes its appearance around com; www.nhs.uk; www.mountaineering.scot. There are the end of May and can persist until the end of September many insect repellents commercially available. Although in a mild summer, with early June through to August most contain varying concentrations of diethyl toluamide being the worst periods. They are particularly active on (DEET), non-toxic alternatives are available such as still, cloudy or overcast days, especially twilight (which Smidge; Mosi Guard Natural and Autan Protection Plus lasts throughout the night in Scotland in summer). Wind are particularly good against ticks. Introduction 9

Mountain Rescue In the event of a serious accident requiring medical attention, call 999 or 112 and ask for Police and Mountain Rescue/Coast Guard. Give concise information about the nature of the injuries, and the exact location, including a six-figure grid reference or the name of the route if possible. Try to leave someone with the casualty, who should be made as comfortable as possible, if injuries allow. If unconscious, be sure to place in the recovery position, ensuring the airway is clear. Karen Latter climbing If you need to call assistance but cannot make voice calls The Edge of the Sea, Pinnacle due to poor mobile phone reception, you can contact the Area, Reiff, Coigach & Assynt (page 235). emergency services using a text from your mobile but only if you have already registered with the emergency SMS text service. To register, text the word ‘register’ to 999. You will get a reply and should then follow the instructions you are sent. More information at www. emergencysms.org.uk. In a few instances Mountain Rescue posts (containing a stretcher and basic rescue kit) are located in the hills. More information at www.scottishmountainrescue.org.

Grades Routes are graded for on-sight ground up ascents, and the climber is assumed to be fully equipped with a wide range of protection devices. On some of the hardest routes skyhooks may be found useful. It goes without saying that people should make their own judgement regarding any in situ equipment encountered including fixed abseil points, all of which will rapidly deteriorate through exposure to the elements. I have tried to be as DISCLAIMER consistent as possible, though minor regional variations The author, publisher and distributors of this book may occur. Any crucial runner information, especially do not recognise any liability for injury or damage relating to obscure gadgets or hidden or hard-to-place caused to, or by, climbers, third parties, or property protection has been included where known. Where arising from such persons seeking reliance on this a route has only received an ascent after extensive guidebook as an assurance for their own safety. top-rope practice this headpointed ascent has been highlighted within the first ascent details where known, in order to record such prior familiarisation. 10 Isle of Skye

Martin Boyce nearing the top of the pleasant Cioch Nose, on the iconic The Cioch, Sron na Ciche. Isle of Skye 11

1 hour 45 mins

*either Norse 'Skuy-o' cloud island or Gaelic 'Eilean Sgiathanach' winged island.

ISLE OF SKYE 35-45 mins (cloud Island*)

Shaped like a piece from a jigsaw puzzle, Skye is the second largest Scottish island (after The Long Isle – Lewis and Harris). Possibly named after the Norse word for cloud (skuy-o), and somewhat romantically referred to in tourist brochures and car stickers as Eilean a‘ Cheo (Isle of the Mist, i.e. rain!), the rough gabbro of the Cuillin boasts the Skye most famous mountain range in Scotland. Geographically the island is composed of five peninsulas radiating from the centre, Strath. The famed Cuillin range lies entirely within the squat Minginish peninsula in the south-west, while the Duirinish and Trotternish peninsulas in the extreme west and north harbour the majority of the sea cliffs. 12 Isle of Skye The Cuillin THE CUILLIN “Skye appears at some remote period to have been exposed to violent internal convul- Cullin – Norse 'Kjollenn' sions which up-heaved its steep and rugged mountains.” – Alexander Cameron, 1871 keel-shaped ridges. The Cuillin exerts a mysterious, almost mystical magnetic attraction to both climbers and clouds alike. It is far and away the most popular mountain range in Scotland. More than any other area in Scotland the cliffs call for a range of mountaineering skills, not least of which is route finding and locating the often convoluted and problematic descents. One particular piece of what can only be described as ’creative writing’ cannot go without mention and that is the brochure produced by the Dunvegan Estate, who state that “every year, thousands of tourists come to stay in the wonderfully situated campsite in Glen Brittle” – I was under the misapprehension that they came to climb in the Cuillin and the unremarkable field and black beach at the end of the road were merely convenient stopping off places. Accommodation: Campsites: Ashaig Campsite, Breakish, Broadford (p 01471 822771; www.ashaig-campsite-skye.co.uk). The two most conveniently situated It should be noted that campsites for the Cuillin are at the road end at Glen Brittle (Apr – Sept; p 01478 the Glen Brittle campsite 640404; www.dunvegancastle.com) and Sligachan (Mar – Oct; p 07786 435 294; www. in particular is also home sligachan.co.uk), the latter a very convenient staggering distance from the bar! Further to MWT (midge warfare afield there are caravan and campsites at Torvaig, by Portree (Apr – Oct;p 01478 training), where a plentiful 611849; www.portreecampsite.co.uk) & Loch Greshornish (Apr – Oct; p 01470 582230; supply of southern blood www.skyecamp.com) – off A850 between Portree & Dunvegan; both convenient for maintains the gene pool. the Trotternish peninsula. Staffin (Easter – Oct;p 01470 562213; www.staffincampsite. Other possible contenders co.uk); Kinloch, Dunvegan (Mar – Oct; p 01470 521210; www.kinloch-campsite.co.uk); for midge city include and Uig Bay (p 01470 542714; www.uig-camping-skye.co.uk). Wild camping anywhere the camping sites in in the hills or possibly near the roadside in the vicinity of the sea cliffs, though fresh run- Glen Torridon or Glen ning water may not be readily available. If in doubt seek permission locally. Club Huts: Rosa on Arran, but the Glen Brittle Memorial Hut (BMC/Mountaineering Scotland), 0.5 mile/0.8km beyond Glen Brittle campsite on Youth Hostel, near end of the glen. JMCS hut at Coruisk. Open bothy at Camasunary a still summer's evening NG 517 183. Bunkhouses: Skye Backpackers (p 01599 534510; www.skyebackpackers. definitely takes the biscuit, com); Saucy Mary’s Lodge (p 01599 534845; www.saucymarys.com) – both Kyleakin; though others claim that Skye Basecamp, Broadford (p 01471 820044; www.skyebascamp.co.uk); Sligachan Sligachan is even worse. (p 01478 650458); The Bunkhouse, Carbost (next to old inn: p 01478 640205; www. theoldinnskye.co.uk); Portnalong – Croft Bunkhouse (p 07834 827524; www.skyehostels. com) or Skyewalker Hostel (p 01478 640250; www.skyewalkerhostel.com); Portree Independent Hostel (p 01478 613737; www.hostelskye.co.uk); Dun Flodigarry Hostel (p 01470 552212; www.flodigarry-hostel.scot); Flora MacDonald Hostel, by Armadale (p 01471 844272; www.hostel-scotland.co.uk). Youth Hostels: Glenbrittle (Apr–Sept; p 01478 640278); Broadford (Mar – Oct; p 01471 822442) and Portree (p 01478 612231) – all www.hostellingscotland.org.uk. TIC: Portree (p 01478 612992; www.visitscotland.com). Amenities: Café at Glenbrittle Campsite open 8am – 8pm; take away café, Carbost – opposite Talisker Distillery (Mar – Oct 10am–5pm; www.caoradhubh.com); Café Isle of Skye The Cuillin 13

Lephin, Glendale, on way to Neist (www.cafélephin.co.uk). Closest pubs to Glen Brittle “… among its bare and are the Old Inn at Carbost (9 miles) also PO/shop opposite, with the Taigh Ailean Hotel in rugged hills there are spots Portnalong 3 miles further. Most popular pub on the island is the Sligachan Hotel (p 01478 which, for wild romantic 650204; www.sligachan.co.uk), which Runrig aficionados would appreciate. Serves food grandeur, are unsurpassed 7.30am – 9pm and contender for the second most expensive beer (after The Torridon Inn) in Scotland.” – Alexander in the Highlands and Islands. Outdoor shops: Inside Out, Portree (p 01478 611663; www. Cameron, 1871 insideoutskye.com) or Cioch, Struan (p 01470 572707; www.cioch-direct.co.uk).

G LEN DRYNOCH

G L E N

I G

A N

E L T T I R B

N E L G

Glen Brittle Memorial Hut

Coruisk Memorial Hut 14 Isle of Skye Bla Bheinn

The Great Prow

Scupper Gully

BLA BHEINN (blue mountain)

Reckoned by many to be the finest of all the Cuillin mountains, lying outwith the main horseshoe ridge, aB ad 11/4hr overlooking the head of Loch Slapin. NG 534 217 Alt: 680m

THE GREAT PROW An impressive and very distinctive steep projecting fin rising above the huge scree filled bowl that separates Bla Bheinn from Clach Glas. Access: From Broadford follow the B8083 towards Elgol for 6.2 miles/10km round the head of Loch Slapin to park at a lay-by on the right, 100m beyond the burn of Scupper Gully Allt na Dunaiche. Approach: Follow the well-defined path up the right side of the Allt na Dunaiche burn, crossing it after 1.5km. Continue up the path to cross a smaller burn after 300m and head steeply up the hillside diagonally right then by a vague path up the left edge of the huge scree slope. A pleasanter option may be to continue up the path then by the south-east ridge and descend down Scupper Gully to the base of the routes. Descent: Scramble easily down the back of the prow then down the straightforward scree-filled Scupper 5 Gully bounding the right (west) side of The Great Prow. The similarly scree-filled Access Gully (Moderate) 4 2 100m down the slope from the left side involves a short 3 through route and a steep 4m wall at the base. Isle of Skye Bla Bheinn 15

• 1 Sidewinder 1 113m Severe 4a above overhangs then go diagonally up right FA Ian Clough, J.Silvers, J.Greenwood & D.Waller 16 Sept 1968 to a short crack leading to a stance and PB. Good climbing up the left edge of the prow. Start 4 40m 5b Follow the crack, climb an overlap and beneath a short slabby ramp. move up to a ledge. Finish up to the right. 1 30m 4a Go up the ramp then the steep groove (often wet at start), taking the right fork to a belay. • 4 Finger in the Dyke 2 130m E5 6a 2 15m 4a The grooves above to a ledge. FA Paul Thorburn, Grant Farquhar & Gary Latter 4 June 1997 3 43m 4a Move left and continue directly for Climbs a series of cracks left of the right arête. Start at a 20m in the same line then easily up a trap slanting dyke 10m right of Jib just left of the cave. dyke forming an open chimney to belay on 1 25m 6a Follow the dyke to a small corner (serious) a large ledge just above a chokestone. and gain the shelf above. Swing right into an 4 25m 4a Continue up the fault until a grand undercut groove and make hard moves up this to view of the Great Wall comes into view. better holds. Traverse right across the lip of the Finish easily up the left-slanting ramp. roof past a huge pocket into a slabby recess then climb the crack to a hanging belay below a niche. • 2 Jib 2 130m E1 5b 2 35m 5c Continue up the line of the crack then FA Martin Boysen & Dave Alcock; Ian Clough & Hamish MacInnes head diagonally right underneath the smooth May 1969 bulge and round the arête. Traverse an easy The big corner on the left side of the Great Wall. Start gangway back left round the arête to belay below an overhung gangway 5m right of the true in a scoop on the left side of the arête. chimney crack. 3 50m 5c Continue directly above the belay 1 40m 5b Follow the left-trending gangway crossing a dyke then follow good holds leading then go up a steep wall to a ledge. Traverse rightwards onto the arête. Continue more left past the ledge into the main line. easily up the wide left-slanting crack and its 2 40m 4c Climb the crack with continuous continuation to belay on broken ground. interest in a fine position. 4 20m Scramble up and leftwards to finish. Scupper 3 15m 4c Climb the chimney above to a stance. Gully 2 4 35m 4b Follow the fine groove on the right to the top. • 5 The Great Prow 85m HVS 5a FA T.Band, Phil Gribbon, N.Ross & Wilf Tauber 15 June 1968 • 3 Stairway to Heaven 3 125m E5 6a Fine situations up the big corner bounding the right FA Mick Fowler & Phil Thomas 19 June 1977 side of the Great Wall. Start beneath the prominent An impressive line direct up the centre of the Great Wall. chimney-corner. Start 12m to the left of the overhanging basalt dyke of Jib. 1 35m 5a The crack leads with interest to 1 35m 5b Climb the groove, move left for a slab. Climb this to belay at its top. 5m then diagonally right to gain the niche 2 20m 4b Continue up the crack to below the stance. (This avoids the wide crack belay on a ‘pedestal’ ledge. which is very dirty and usually wet.) 3 10m 4b Return down the crack to level with an 5 2 20m 4c Follow the crack above to a further niche. orange slab then traverse out left on a thin 3 30m 6a Move up to a fault line, follow this diagonal fault to the belay on the crest. 4 leftwards until it is possible to climb the overhang 4 20m 4b Climb the ramp then a crack on the right 2 3 via a short crack. Traverse right to a narrow ledge which leads back right onto the crest and the top. 56 Isle of Skye STAFFIN SLIP BUTTRESSES

Rory Brown nearing the top of the spectacularly-situated Sheer Sear. Photo Peter Herd. STAFFIN SLIP BUTTRESSES A collection of buttresses set well back from the sea Access: Continue north along the A855 for 1.9 with easier approaches and descents than those to the miles/3km beyond Kilt Rock, turning right at the bend south around Kilt Rock. Good venues, often staying in the road, 0.25 miles/0.4km beyond Staffin village hall. dry in showery south-westerlies. Follow the single track road down and round the coast for 1 mile/1.6km to park near the slipway at the end.

NG 498 676 Alt: 50m aA aB ad 10min

Jean and Jim E1 4c, 5b

1 Isle of Skye STAFFIN SLIP BUTTRESSES 57 2 SGEIR BHAN (white rock) – • 2 Return of the Stone 50m VS 4b STAFFIN SLIP NORTH FA Mark Hudson & Roger Holden 30 November 1996 The rightmost of the two big crags. Consistent well protected climbing. Gains and climbs the Approach: From behind the boathouse cross second column. Start in front of the third column, below boggy ground in the direction of the crag to gain a well a chimney containing an “ominously-poised” flake at 5m. constructed path then traverse left from the first bend. 1 15m 4b Bridge up the chimney, taking care with Descent: down the right (west) end of the cliff. the flake, to belay in an ivy dell to the right. 2 35m 4b A spectacular pitch. Gain the rear of the • 1 Kilt Classic 2 40m E1 5b second (right) column using some steps to cross FA Bill Birkett & Ed Grindley 12 August 1987 the giant flake forming the back wall of the dell. Memorable climbing up the steep chimney on the right Bridge up behind the column, passing behind a side of the large tapering pillar. Ascend the widening jammed block at 10m. Continue bridging, pausing crack “with considerable interest”, to belay on top of the to pose on top of the column, before transferring pillar. Reasonably protected due to small cracks in the back to the cliff face to gain the top. Stake right wall. (possibly missing) & R #9 belay 5m further back.

STAFFIN SLIP SOUTH The bigger leftmost crag above the birches and boulders. Approach: Walk south-east along grass just above One of the premier crack climbing destinations in the the shore until beneath the cliff. Weave up sheep UK – if it was rotated 180 degrees (to face south-west), tracks then go direct to gain the right end of the cliff. there would be queues at the base of many of the Alternatively, follow the good track to the top of the routes! There are 3 separate bolt belays/abseil points Staffin Slip North then head along the top of that at the top of the shorter routes at the right end, and crag and drop down the easy descent gully. another at the top of Sasha; all other routes have Descents: Down the grassy gully at the right (north-west) boulder or double stake anchors. A single rope is end, or by abseil from anchors at the top of many of the recommended; a triple set of cams for the longer routes. routes from Captain Patience rightwards – marked on topo.

Pete Herd on the first ascent of the superb long sustained finger crack of Wildwood. Photo James Sutton. 58 Isle of Skye STAFFIN SLIP BUTTRESSES

48m

28m 23m 16m

DESCENT

23 19 18 22 21 20 15 1 17 16 14 7 5 4 2 13 12 11 9 8 3 25 24

NG 499 675 Alt: 60m aB ad 20min

• 1 Lateral Thinking 2 15m E1 5b FA Willie Jeffrey 10 May 1990 The rightmost of twin cracks, left of the first wide crack. • 7 Dial Card 2 25m E2 5c FA Ian Blakeley, Al Pounder, Ed Grindley, Steve Suthorn • 2 Hand Jive 2 17m E1 5b 30 April 1988 FA Willie Jeffrey & Noel Williams 14 May 1994 Twin cracks in the right corner of the recess. The leftmost crack, finishing just left of a tiny roof. 2 Gary Latter on the fine • 3 Jugs of Deception 18m E4 6a Experimental Learning. FA Michael Tweedley & Colin Moody 10 June 1996 Photo: Karen Latter The pillar left of 2 using thin cracks. The final bulge is climbed by a layaway off the edge to reach a hidden hold on the right.

• 4 Lat up a Drainpipe 2 17m HVS 5b FA Gunars Libeks, Ed Grindley & Steve Suthorn 30 May 1988 Strenuous climbing up twin cracks in a corner recess.

• 5 The Avon Man 2 18m E2 5c FA Ed Grindley & Gunars Libeks 3 May 1990 The awkward black crack immediately left of 4.

• 6 Swillington Common 3 20m E2 5c FA Ian Blakeley, Gunars Libeks & Colin Downer 28 May 1989 The next crack left again with difficulties around mid-height. Isle of Skye STAFFIN SLIP BUTTRESSES 59

10 9 8 7

1 2 6 4 3

• 8 Silly Pollack Two 2 25m E4 6a •13 Windom Earle 3 40m E2 5c FA Bill Birkett & Luke Steer June 1988 FA James & Doug Sutton 14 June 2019 The thin crack just left of centre of the recess. Sustained. Twin white cracks. Lots of bridging – “bring some strong calves”. • 9 Captain Patience 3 30m E3 5c FA Colin Downer, Gunars Libeks, Ed Grindley, Steve Suthorn, •14 Sasha 3 40m E2 5c Al Pounder & Ian Blakeley 30 April 1988 FA Ed Grindley & Gunars Libeks 9 June 1990 Excellent sustained physical jamming up the corner At the left end of a lichenous wall is a prominent groove groove on the left. with twin cracks leading to stepped black roofs. Climb through a sentry box and up to rest under the roof then •10 Glorious Five Year Plan 2 40m E2 5c through this thuggishly to finish up a short crack. FA Colin Moody & Michael Tweedley 1996 The corner, starting between a birch tree and an ivy. •15 Woman of the Eighties 3 45m E3 5c FA Ian Blakeley, Ron Kenyon & Colin Downer 30 May 1988 •11 The Latvian 2 35m E2 5c Strenuous sustained finger-jamming up the second crack FA Colin Downer, Gunars Libeks & Steve Suthorn 30 April 1988 in the wall left of the overgrown groove. Start above a heather topped pedestal left of three fallen blocks. Twin cracks merging at third height. •16 Gorbachev 3 45m E2 5b FA Ed Grindley, Gunars Libeks & Steve Suthorn 29 May 1988 •12 Lats in Space 1 40m E1 5b Superb steady climbing up twin ragged cracks and a FA Ed Grindley & Ian Sykes 24 April 1988 groove. A good introduction to the crag. Deep crack in the V-groove immediately left of a sharp prow. 60 Isle of Skye STAFFIN SLIP BUTTRESSES

•17 The Sheriff’s Black Dog 1 45m E2 5b FA Colin Downer, Gunars Libeks & Ed Grindley 29 May 1988 Start left of a prow with a mossy boulder at its base, just right of two 20m high pillars. The thin crack to a roof high up, passed on the right with difficulty.

•18 Experimental Learning 3 45m E4 6a FA Ian Blakeley & Colin Downer 29 May 1988 Start just left of the two pillars. Climb a finger-crack up a smooth white groove, passing a roof at the top on the right.

•19 Fire Walk With Me 3 45m E3 5c FA James & Doug Sutton & Matt Barratt 29 June 2019 Perfect sustained finger-crack with great features on the face, finishing at the highest point of the crag.

•20 Silly Pollack 2 45m E2 5b FA Luke Steer & Bill Birkett June 1988 Beyond two poorer routes are twin cracks capped by series of stepped roofs. Move into the leftmost crack to avoid the roofs.

•21 Birdman of Bewaldeth 3 45m E3 6a FA Colin Downer & Ian Blakeley 27 May 1989 Rightmost crack in a slight recess left of 20. Climb through a small triangular roof at 6m, passing right of a Dave Kirby on Captain nose high up. Patience. Photo Dave Fowler.

•22 The Beast of Bolsover 2 45m E2 5b FA Colin Downer & Gunars Libeks 29 May 1988 •24 Wildwood 3 45m E5 6a Leftmost crack in the recess, past an undercling left to FA Peter Herd 23 June 2019 an easier steep crack. Finish up the crest of a vague prow A spectacular hard pitch up the finger crack a few metres and left of a nose near the top. right of 25. Recommended rack: triple set cams from BD X4 0.2 to green cam, single set nuts 1-10. •23 Lusting after Glenys Kinnock 2 40m E2 5b FA Ian Blakeley, Colin Downer, Gunars Libeks & R.Williamson 27 •25 Green Vote 3 45m E3 5c May 1989 FA Ed Grindley & Ian Sykes 8 May 1988 The thin crack round to the left, right of a vegetated One of the best routes on the crag, ”Wider hands, burly, groove, passing to the left of a long narrow roof at with a traddy feel.” The prominent crack on the white mid-height. An incredible hand crack for lower section. wall just right of 26 East Chimney Crack 2HVS 5a. Lerwick

freeing up space to include over 300 new routes, 60 rd climbing areas throughout the country. During the dozen or 3rd edition like Prometheus of legend, been freed of rock attachments.