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ABOUT SCOTTISH ROCK VOLUME 2 VOLUME If you have an ambition to do all the climbs in these two THE BEST MOUNTAIN, CRAG, SEA CLIFF & SPORT CLIMBING IN SCOTLAND VOLUME 2 NORTH Scottish Rock guides I think you’d better schedule time off in 3RD EDITION your next life. This labour of Gary’s has been of gargantuan proportions. Somewhere along the way he encountered a time A selected guide to over 2,550 routes in the North- VOLUME 2 warp and an initial target of 1,000 climbs over a period of two West, the Far North, the Hebrides and Orkney. years stretched to 4,500 in over a decade. Those of you who Volume 1 extends this area South of the Great Glen. use the guides will benefit by this dedication and the sheer NORTH These guides will take you to some extraordinary choice offered; if you divide the retail price of these by the places to experience some of the best rock climbing number of good routes you’ll realise you’ve got a bargain. and scrambling around. Explore the renowned Volume 1 covers a proliferation of Scottish crags up to the rough Cuillin gabbro on Skye, sample the delights natural demarcation of the Great Glen. They are easier of of sea cliff climbing on the islands of Lewis, Pabbay, access than most in Volume 2 and present infinite variety. VOLUME 1 Mingulay and Orkney. From convenient roadside Inevitably, with the march of time, progress and technique crags to remote mountain routes and Hebridean sea the freeing of many aid routes has come to pass and also the cliffs, they’re all here. somewhat tedious task of cleaning on abseil has resulted in some way-out excursions being revealed. Creag an Dubh-loch is a typical example. 3rd Edition I have been a long-time advocate of selected climbs and the Several recently-discovered venues have been use of photographs to illustrate both climbs and action. I’m added, including ‘Super Crag Sport’ and ‘Super Crag glad that this principle has been used throughout these two Gary Latter. Photo Karen Latter. Gary Latter. Trad’, along with a host of easier additions at Diabaig. volumes. It gives you a push to get up and do things. Obviously On the islands, many recent additions on the popular Gary has had considerable time to think about layout, area Skye sea cliffs of Suidhe Biorach, Neist and Staffin Slip intros, etc; this has been achieved with commendable clarity South have been included. The superb rock on Lewis, THE AUTHOR Photo Karen Latter. Cover photo – Gary Latter on Crack of Ages, Seana Mheallan, Torridon. and lack of waffle. Pabbay and Mingulay has been well documented, with A native Scot, Gary Latter has climbed extensively throughout The Outer Hebrides receives due attention, such as the idyllic many new topos illustrating the wealth of wonderful Scotland for over four decades, pioneering hundreds of new rock playground of the Barra isles; summer sun, surf and climbing throughout a range of grades. routes of every standard throughout the Highlands and Islands, delectable Lewisian gneiss. Just a wee way north, in North Minor and less popular crags have been replaced, VOLUME 2 NORTH including major new routes and early repeats in all the major 3 Harris, some of the intimidating routes at Sron Ulladale have, freeing up space to include over 300 new routes, 60 RD climbing areas throughout the country. During the dozen or 3RD EDITION like Prometheus of legend, been freed of rock attachments. new topos and more than 50 additional action photos. E so years researching and compiling these guides, he has 12 ISLE OF SKYE Further north, beyond the magic of Skye, in the Northern Isles personally visited and climbed on almost all the crags and cliffs DITION 13 APPLECROSS even more crags are revealed such as Berry Head and St documented, amassing an extensive collection of photographs Featuring: 14 TORRIDON John’s Head. Here at this latitude in the simmer dim you can along the way. • Over 2,550 of the regions best routes from 15 GAIRLOCH really rock around the clock! The list seems endless and if you His favourite places in Scotland are the islands and the north Moderate difficulty to top-end Extremes. 16 COIGACH & ASSYNT succeed in doing half of them you’ll be a much better climber west – anywhere with the possibility of finding new unclimbed www.pesdapress.com • Accessible multi-pitch mountain 17 SUTHERLAND and know a lot more about Scotland – have a good decade! rock, secluded beaches, and hopefully some decent weather www.scottishrock.co.uk routes and scrambles. Gary Latter 18 CAITHNESS HAMISH MACINNES and nae midges! Amongst these, Mingulay, Pabbay and the ISBN 9781906095710 • Sport climbs from F5 to F8c. 90000 > 19 LEWIS & HARRIS small tidal island of Erraid, off Mull, are some of the most • 260 full colour photo topos. 20 PABBAY & MINGULAY memorable venues. • Scale area maps, highlighting the approaches. 21 ORKNEY UIAA PARTICIPATION STATEMENT • Inspirational photographs, including “Climbing and mountaineering are activities with a danger 9 781906 095710 many first ascents. of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities Gary Latter should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.” Lerwick OVERVIEW MAP Stromness TICKLISt – VOLUME 1 & VOLUME 2 INTERNATIONAL Kirkwall GUIDEBOOK SYMBOLS GRADE COMPARISON CHART VOLUME 1 SOUTH Moderate Black Mamba Vol1 Groovin’ High 98 Experimental Learning 60 Big John 461 The Man with the Child 21 01 IsLE OF ARRAN A’Chir Ridge Vol1 Blank Vol1 Hoofer’s Route 414 Fire Walk With Me 60 Big Kenneth 438 in his Eyes Vol1 Scrabster Afterthought Arête Vol1 The Chasm Vol1 Jack the Ripper 225 Fulmar Squaw 418 Burning Desire 221 Marlene (F7c) Vol1 Aspect: Cardinal points for main N 02 THE ARROCHAR ALPS Kinlochbervie Castle Ridge Vol1 The Clean Sweep Vol1 King Cobra 48 Haystack Vol1 Cosmopolitan Vol1 Mega Tsunami 333 N aH aA aB AL A C Wick 03 IsLE OF MULL I 17 direction the cliff faces (as well TIVE C Collie’s Route 33 H Damnation Vol1 The Klondyker 42 Internationale 52 Cruisability Vol1 The Naked Ape Vol1 RALIA C N * Stornoway 18 T H NC Curved Ridge Vol1 ERI 04 GLEN COE & GLEN ETIVE The End Vol1 Mayday 427 Kingpin Vol1 Crystal Vision Vol1 Old El Pastits 149 JE S C Lochinver as all directions 'A'). aG aI aC K D K RE Dubhs Ridge 18 Fionn Buttress 169 Minus One Direct Vol1 Limpet Crack 364 Dreamline Vol1 The Origin of Species Vol1 U A U TE F AM AU UIAA 16 05 ARDGOUR Tarbert 19 06 ARDNAMURCHAN East Ridge, In Pin 26 Flannan Slab 352 Moac Wall 362 Monkey Man 293 GMB 460 The Prow Left Finish (F7c) 198 Ullapool Pygmy Ridge Vol1 Grand Dièdre 45 The Needle Vol1 Neptune 365 Grime of the Century 376 The Run of the Arrow Vol1 aF aE aD Easy 07 GLEN NEVIS Difficult Moderate F1 5.1 4 I 15 Grooved Arête Vol1 The Pause Vol1 The Otter’s The Guga 395 Tank Top 313 Difficult F2 5.2 6 II Uig GREAT GLEN FAULT 08 BEN NEVIS Clach Glas-Bla Bheinn 16 Jabberwock Vol1 Pontoon Vol1 Breakfast Table Vol1 Hebridean Overtures 411 Time’s Arrow Vol1 14 09 CENTRAL HIGHLANDS Final Selection Vol1 Jamie Jampot 21 Presumption 298 Over the Hill Vol1 In Profundum Lacu 393 Trajan's Column Vol1 Approach: As described from Very F2+ 5.3 III 13 The Great Ridge Vol1 June Crack Vol1 The Priest 411 Pinch Super Direct Vol1 Just a Little Tease Vol1 Walking on Air 226 8 12 11 INVERNESS 10 CAIRNGORMS af ae ad Difficult F3− 5.4 III+ ABERDEEN The Gutter Vol1 King Bee Vol1 The Sarclet Pimpernel 324 The Prozac Link 358 Kismet 383 The Wicked Vol1 the access parking places. On IV Aviemore 11 EASTER ROSS North Buttress Vol1 King Rat Vol1 Space Traveller Vol1 Quality Street Vol1 Lady Charlotte Vol1 Wild Country Vol1 Severe 4a F3 5.5 10 10 foot downhill, across level terrain ac ab IV+ Newtonmore Quiver Rib Vol1 May Crack Vol1 Spring Squill 400 Roring Forties 457 Ling Dynasty 97 Wild Side 173 HS 4b F3+ 5.6 12 Castlebay 08 Ballater Mallaig Tower Ridge Vol1 Mosque Vol1 Too Young for a Gladiator 426 Skydiver Direct Vol1 Little Miss Sitting Pretty 418 E7 or uphill. Additional approach V− 07 HIGHLAND VOLUME 2 NORTH 20 Braemar BOUNDARY Very Difficult The Mousetrap Vol1 Trapeze Vol1 Spock 41 The Lost Ark Vol1 101 Damnations 406 am an VS 4c F4 5.7 14 V 06 05 Fort William 09 FAULT 12 ISLE OF SKYE symbols for steeply uphill Agag’s Groove Vol1 The Old Wall Vol1 Trophy Crack 35 Sumo 98 Mucklehouse Wall 458 Aphrodite Vol1 5.8 V+ 13 APPLECROSS 16 04 Aberfeldy Arrow Route 33 Original Route, Stoer 275 Unicorn Vol1 Temple of Doom Vol1 On the Beach Vol1 Arcadia Vol1 (scrambling), abseil approach, use HVS 5a F5 5.9 VI− Craignure Crianlarich 14 TORRIDON Assault Slab 148 Phantom Slab Vol1 West Flank Route Vol1 Titan’s Wall Vol1 The Orange Bow 174 Axiom (F8a) Vol1 F5+ 5.10a 18 VI of bicycles or small boat/kayak. Oban Callander DUNDEE Cioch Nose 87 Proud Corner Vol1 Yo-yo Vol1 The Torridonian 106 The Pabbay Express 273 Bravura 396 03 Perth 15 GAIRLOCH Arrochar Crypt Route Vol1 Resurrection Vol1 E2 Uhura 40 Paralysis by The Chisel 384 E1 5b F6a 16 COIGACH & ASSYNT Stirling North-East Buttress Vol1 The Rut Vol1 Alice Springs Vol1 Vincent Vol1 Analysis (F7a+) Vol1 Dalriada Vol1 E2 5c F6a+ 5.10b VI+ 02 Sea cliff exposure: Tidal (cliff 17 SUTHERLAND 19 Observatory Ridge Vol1 Salamander Vol1 Angel Face 96 Voyage of Faith 434 Puffing Crack 341 The End of Innocence Vol1 ag 5.10c VII− 18 CAITHNESS Recess Route Vol1 Scabbard Vol1 Anger and Lust Vol1 Whispering Crack 63 The Raven 407 Every Cormorant is a exposed to waves and the base 20 19 LEWIS & HARRIS Savage Slit Vol1 Shangri-La 38 Bardo Thodol 313 E4 The Risk Business Vol1 Potential Shag 391 EDINBURGH of routes may flood at high tide).