Saddlery and Harness Magazine: Summaries
`Saddlery and Harness` was a monthly trade journal published by T.Kirby and Sons of Bradford Street, Walsall from July 1891 onwards. Its stated aim was to become “ the authorised and duly- acknowledged organ of the Saddlery and Harness Trades, which, although of universal extent, are admitted to have their chief seat in Walsall; at the same time attention will be given to the claims of other manufacturing centres.” In this it was successful: it quickly became the accepted journal of the trade, and despite a strong bias towards Walsall it regularly included articles about other centres of the trade, and letters from saddlers thoughout the country.
The following notes have been extracted from the first six volumes of the Journal, covering the period 1891-1897. This was a period of intense debate and discussion in the trade. The question of wages and working conditions was one area of great concern, and the Journal reflects some hostility towards Walsall manufacturers from saddlers and harnessmakers in other places who claimed they were being undercut by low wages and the exploitation or `sweating` of women workers. These allegations of “sweating” had been the subject of investigation by a recent House of Lords Select Committee. The advent of the motor car was another cause for concern leading to lengthy exchanges of views from 1896 onwards. Whilst some commentators (quite correctly) predicted disaster for the saddlery and harness trade, others were more complacent, dismissing the motor car as an unreliable and expensive plaything which would never catch on.
The original volumes from which these extracts have been taken are housed in the library at the Leather Museum, where they are available for consultation. The volumes are complete, with the exception of most of the original adverts.
Any text in square brackets has been added by us for the sake of clarification, and is not in the original.
Volume 1 (1891-2)
• Vol.1 No.1 (July 1891)
p.2 Bit trade dispute, over wage rates for certain classes of work, has been running since early in the year. Account is sympathetic to the employees. Piece rate price list drawn up but has yet to be agreed by employers.
p.2 Joseph Carver of Eldon Works Walsall, whip maker. One of the oldest established concerns in the town, dating back to the reign of George III.
p.2 Job Wheway Green Lane Walsall, chain and cart gear makers. One of their specialities is the double- cased `Lion` hame for timber hauling. p.3 Walsall trade around the world. Mr. Fraser from Walsall doing very well in South Africa: “quite the leading harness manufacturer.” p.4 Walsall harnessmakers` union held first annual dinner June 24 th.
Co-operative [horse] collar factory established in Walsall. “We can now boast a Co- operative lock factory, Co-operative chain factory and a Co-operative collar factory.”
p.5 Our Export Trade
“Wherever the foot of civilized man treads there arises, as a natural consequence, a demand for those goods for which Walsall is so justly famous.”
List of a variety of saddles produced: “…an English riding saddle, as used in the West End…a rough, strong, heavy colonial saddle with high knee and thigh pads, as used in the backwoods of Australia….an elaborately quilted Somerset, stitched with bright coloured silk, to meet the special tasks and requirements of the people of South America…”
Vast bulk of manufactures go to three main markets: South Africa, the Australian colonies and South America, in that order. The total value of the harness and saddlery exported in 1890, according to the Board of Trade report, was £642,447. “… I wonder what proportion of the goods represented by the above figures were manufactured in Walsall. I should say that one half would be a moderate estimate.”
p.6 Description of Messrs Hampson and Scott`s new Clarence Works, Whittimere Street. Firm founded c.1794 by Mr.Birch, bit maker to HRH Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV. Succeeded by son- in law Samuel Cox. Now Hampson and Scott.
New factory is four storeys plus basement. Basement and 1st floor are riding saddle workshops, second floor is warehousing and offices, with telephones, third floor is large showroom, fourth floor accommodates 50 stitchers, plus cutters, preparers and finishers.
p.7 Life of Tomas Newton The business now trading as Overton and Co, Freer Street. The firm originally established 1735 by TN`s grt. grandfather .Grandfather Thomas was born in 1750. TN`s father William, born 1776, was the first to produce “a book of drawings of the Walsall manufactures.” He also persuaded the first saddler`s tool maker [Adams] to come to Walsall, from Cricklade, Wilts.
TN himself born 1810 at Birmingham Road . Educated at Queen Mary`s school etc. Apprenticed alongside Joseph Lavender to his father. Set up in business c. 1830. No brown saddler in Walsall [not strictly true!] and only one or two black saddlers. TN “sent trees with bars on up to London, had the seats drawn on there, and the saddles finished at home...this was the commencement of the ready- made brown saddle trade at Walsall.” Supplied Queen Adelaide and made first direct shipment of goods to Sydney, Australia. TN became an important Govmt. contractor. (`Life`contd. in Vol.1 part 2, see below.) p.8 Messrs Brookes and Sons new premises. Firm has just moved from Bridge Street to Leicester Street. Detailed description of new building. “…staircase being lined with a beautiful glazed tiled dado… the work people have been provided with a tearoom … as yet the building is incomplete.” p.9 Description of paragon whip socket supplied by E.Jeffries of Mountrath Street, Walsall. p.10 E. Stanley and Son, est. 1851. Description of products made. p.13 List of tenders being invited for Govmt. contracts eg 30,000 bed straps, 5,200 sets of waist belts, pistol cases, sword frogs etc.
Overton and Co the successors to Thomas Newton (see p.7 above). Their Red Book. p.15 Death of Mr John Hawkins of 16 Station Street. Born 1814. Apprenticed at the age of 8 to his uncle William Gough, bit maker of Harden. Moved to Station Street in 1856. Opened branch in London in Lisle Street, off Leicester Square.[won medal at Great Exhibition 1851]
• Vol. 1 No.2 (August 1891)
p.18 Bit trade dispute. Negotiations continuing over prices to be agreed for certain jobs.
p.20 Govmt. contracts . D.Mason and Sons of Bath Row, B`ham. successful in winning contract.
p.23 A Noted Pioneer:Thomas Newton`s life ( Part 2)
The Saddlery of All Nations- “the first copy in the British Museum… 30 years after he very much improved upon this by a new edition [1872?]…copied by a host of imitators.” Initiated Walsall`s connection with the Woolwich Artillery.
Produced items for His Highness the Khedive Ibrahim (of Egypt) circa 1845; fitted up the showcases for the Walsall manufacturers at the Great Exhibition. Manufactured harness for the Maharajah of Gwalior, India. Started a London office, trebling his trade. Big commissions from Indian army and native princes. Made items for the Maharajah Duleep Singh, a chair saddle with guards and fittings, embroidered pony chair for the Empress of Austria, four- horse harness for the Pasha of Egypt etc.
Gave up the business shortly after 1872. Sold the business to Messrs Overton Bros. and retired to Windsor. Travelled around Europe. Died Dec. 1889 aged 79.
p.25 Dolman`s patent rubber tread stirrups, made by Henry Frost Ltd. of Fieldgate. p.30 Cycle saddle trade important. Two or three Birmingham firms have a virtual monopoly of the business.[D.Mason, Middlemore`s and Brookes and Sons?] p.30 Perfect race saddle made by Messrs Amphlett and Fulford of South Street, weighing 1½ lbs. p.32 “A Saddler`s Complaint”. Letter listing some of the problems which saddlers have to contend with in day- to- day business: “Long credit, blackmailing of coachmen and grooms…the tip- seeking type of stableman…”
• Vol.1. No.3 (September 1891)
p.34 Settlement of the Walsall bit trade dispute. Employers agree to reduce standard hours of workmen from 60 hours per week to 57 hours.
p.37 The Australian markets are mostly supplied from Walsall.
p.43 ET Holden elected as Walsall`s MP.
p.44 Thomas Lote Wollatt patents improved single gullet for saddle- tree.[B`ham address given but this probably address of the company`s solicitor as firm was located in Birmingham Street, Walsall]
• Vol.1 No.4 (October 1891) p.49 “Thoughts for saddlers”. A response to complaints about problems of the trade. Agrees that six months or even one year`s credit is quite normal in the trade, but argues that saddler should overcome this by becoming more retail focussed, selling other things direct to customers so that they have a steady flow of income. p.50 Awl blade makers dispute in Walsall. £500 has been distributed in strike pay. p.51 Riding saddle trade very quiet. A number of brown saddlers walking around the town, out of employment. p.52 Walsall Brown Saddlers Trade Protection Society formed. About 170 members. p.54 Account of Henry Brace of Goodall Street [later Brace Windle Blyth and Co].Est over 100 years ago by Fletcher. Dealer in saddlery and all saddlers` ironmongery. p.55 Pioneers of the Trade. No.3 E.T.Holden . Firm founded 1819. Detailed account. Holden`s pioneered the introduction of coloured japanned leather, in which they still lead the field. Extensive works including blacksmith`s shop and carpenters` shops.
p.56 Comment from a Liverpool customer that there is now only one `saddle hand` left in Liverpool, as the trade “has all gone to Walsall”. p.59 Definition of some technical terms. A shafteau is a saddle covered all over with hogskin. A demi is a saddle with hogskin seat and hogskin knee rolls, the rest of the saddle solid leather. p.60 Messrs Dewsbury and Angel extending their Marsh Street works.
• Vol.1 No.5 (November 1891)
p.66 The Dispute in the Awl Blade Trade.
p.71 Pioneers of the Trade no.4: A Garstin and Co London.
p.73 Technical instruction, a London Top Collar , as supplied by Messrs Fairbanks and Lavender of the Eldon Works, Walsall.
p.77 The Queen`s bit maker Mr Chavasse of Walsall, the principal of Messrs. Latchford and Co of Upper Street Martin`s Lane, WC London. Honoured at a dinner October 1891, and made honorary freeman of the Loriners Company, the first non- Londoner ever to be so honoured.
p.80 W.Thacker and Sons Advert. Manufacturers of crests, coats of arms and rosettes, Fieldgate, Walsall.
• Vol.1 No 6 (December 1891) p.81 Walsall and District Bit Forgers on strike over flooding of market with stamped bits, of inferior quality to hand forged. They insist that stamped items are marked as such. p.82 Dispute in Awl Blade Trade. Proposal by union (The Awl Blade Makers` Society) to establish a cooperative works. p.87 Pioneers of the Trade No. 5: Mr. William Middlemore . Factory at Holloway Head, B`ham, now run by son Thomas Middlemore.
p.88 Brief history of Harry Gill of Vicarage Street, heraldic engraver. Firm was first est. by James Midgley in 1828.
p.88 The superiority of oak bark tanned leather. Available from Cozens and Co of Wolverhampton.
p.91 Description of Messrs W. Brookes` new factory in Leicester Street, now operational.
p.92 Messrs Sheldon and Mills, curriers, Darwall Street. Coach, saddle, harness, and bridle leather manufactured.
p.96 Death of Mr. Job Craddock, bit maker of Caldmore, aged 66.
• Vol.1 No. 7 ( January 1892)
p.103 Pioneers of the Trade, no.6. Messrs Fairbanks and Lavender . Established 1828. Joseph Lavender son of a Cambridgeshire saddler .Came to Walsall in 1813, aged about 12, apprenticed to a saddlers ironmonger [Thomas Newton`s father William]. Travelled for 2 years between 1826-1828 on behalf of Hughes and Newton- “in those days travelling was done by aid of the pack horse and saddle bags”.
Set up in business on own account 1828 [Following William Newton`s death] using “ an ordinary road wagon”. First order was from a Lichfield saddler. New factory erected 1877 in Eldon Street, Walsall. Changed focus from supplying country trade to export. Now have reps in Australia, Canada, and Egypt. They have own currying dept and supply other saddlers. Currrently 200 hands employed.
p.105 Nag stallion outfit by Messrs Power and Sons, Plume Saddlery Works, Walsall.
p.105 “Another Co-operative Undertaking in Walsall”. Bit makers` dispute. A number of the men sacked for their stance. Setting up a co-op. Awl blade makes also resolving to set up a co-op works.
p.106 Machine- sewn saddlery and harness. One page article arguing in favour of sewing machines. The `Pearson No.5` the latest model, made in Leicester. Hoping that the Govmt. will allow the introduction of machine- sewn leather items for the standing army, as it has for volunteer corps.[ie machine- sewn good enough for volunteers, but real army needs hand sewn!]
p.107 Mr JMMcKinstry, brown saddler of Digbeth, third generation saddler. Father worked for ETHolden, grandfather a saddler in Belfast.
• Vol.1 No.8 (February 1892)
p.118 Albert Saddlery Works, Brace Street, Walsall, run by Charles Wincer, previously occupied by Charles Myring. History of the firm, est 1869 as Chas. and Thomas Wincer. Employs over 150 people.
p.119 Pioneers of the Trade No.7, Messrs. Bliss and Co p.121 Bit Makers Co-op Ass`n. Looking for premises. p.128 `The Condition of the Saddlery Trade`. Letter from “A Yorkshire Saddler” who argues that market town saddlers (those in towns of 5000+) have to become retailers to survive. Walsall mfrs.have become so good at making high quality goods cheaply that it is pointless trying to compete. Almost all articles can be bought more cheaply and of better quality than they can be made by the country saddler.
“It used to be the proper thing to decry Walsall- made goods, but there are all sorts of goods made at Walsall from the cheapest of auction stuff to the best articles possible, and such as few country saddlers can touch for skill and quality.”
• Vol.1.No 9 (March 1892)
p.131 Bit makers Co-op Assn. Problems.
p.135 Pioneers of the Trade, no. 8 - Messrs. D. Mason and Sons, Birmingham D. Mason born 1808 at Devil`s Bridge . In 1827 came to B`ham as a collar maker, becoming foreman of works. Left 1853 and started his own business in Ryland Road, Birmingham, as a brown saddler. 1872 sons Rowland and Edward King joined. In 1885 factory expanded with over 300 hands, at top of Holloway Head, Birmingham Daniel Mason retired in 1886, and died 1889. p.137 The Pilch. Defined as “a kind of pad or low saddle, deriving its origin from the old-fashioned pillion or pad, which was used by females when riding behind horsemen.” Especially useful for training children as softer, and easier for the rider to retain their seat. Some are quilted. p.137 Handford Greatrex. Tan their hides from best English oak bark. p.139 Mr Samuel Llewellen of Universal Leather Works, Wisemore, has brought out over 100 new designs in ladies` belts for the continental and other markets. Some laced with silk braid and cord of various colours. Mr Llewellen manufactures all strap leathergoods such as bridles, Dutch Boer head collars, rug straps, garters etc. p.143 Letter: `A Walsall Traveller` replies to `Yorkshire Saddler`. Letter from W.Dowse complaining about conditions in the trade- in his extensive experience journeyman saddlers are working longer hours for less wages “ than almost any other mechanic” he has come across.
• Vol.1 No.10 (April 1892)
p.150 Call for a `museum of manufactures` in Walsall.
p.151 Pioneers of the Trade no. 9. W.Brookes and Sons, Walsall.
Established originally in Stratford on Avon. Business moved to Walsall in 1780, as Lord and Brookes, based in Ablewell Street. Saddlers ironmongers and iron merchants at this date. In 1820 commenced manufacture of bridles and strap goods.
1891 firm moves to Leicester Street “…an imposing five storey structure, in Queen Anne style of architecture, with an extension range of warehousing and factory at the rear.” At present time “they export into nearly every civilized country of the world.” Their foreign trade commenced 1844. Currently making a set of harness ( in blue leather with silver fittings) for an Indian prince. p.152 Superb full- colour illustration of saddler`s shop window in Brighton. Also full colour illustration of the Kalippos Cart Stallion Bridle by Overton and Co of Freer Street, Walsall p.153 illustration of patent buckle designed by Matthew Harvey. p.158 bankruptcy of Frederick James Gee of Lichfield Street Walsall. p.160 Letter re hours and wages in the saddlery trade. Writer works approx. 60 hours a week (7am to 7pm plus Saturday) for 24 shillings. This would not be acceptable in other trades eg carpentry or bricklaying, who would consider 30 shillings a week a basic minimum.
• Vol 1 No. 11 (May 1892)
p.162. Cllr Hykin sent to prison for stealing the funds of the Bit Makers` Society.
p.163 ETHolden and Son purchase large Scottish tannery of Mr. W Barr of Beith. Holden`s will now practice as tanners as well as curriers and japanners etc. (p.168 described as the Bath Well Tannery, near Glasgow, the `largest and best` pigskin tannery in the world).
p.166 Walsall`s trade with other countries continues to be depressed.
p.166 Chamber of Commerce in Walsall has opened a reading room. “A complete collection of foreign samples will, it is to be hoped, only be a question of time” and a Museum of Local Manufactures would be a still more valuable adjunct.”
p.167 Pioneers of the trade: no 10 Gadsdons of London [coachbuilders?]
p.172 `Dodges in the bit trade by a bit forger`. Criticism of stamped and cast bits.
P173 Whips and whipmaking. Technical details supplied by W.and G. Ashford of B`ham. Excellent detailed (two page) instructions re how to make whips.
p.179 John Leckie secure Govmt. contract for 1200 seats for Universal iron arch military saddles. Tenders invited for other items- samples may be seen at Chamber of Commerce.
p.179 Death of Mr Philip Philpot, formerly in partnership with Mr.G.Sheldon as bridle cutters. Latterly trading on own account.
• Vol.1. No. 12 (June 1892)
p.183 Trade still bad in Walsall
p.187 Pioneers of the trade: Messrs. Shattock and Hunter, Bristol, `the premier saddlers ironmongers in the West Country`.
p.189 West End \Gig furniture by Messrs. Sidney Hawley of Holtshill, Walsall p.191 Meeting of the Walsall New Brown Saddlers Trade Protection Society. Supported by W. Christie (employer). p.192 Benfield`s patent horse shoe, made by Messrs Benfield of Waterloo Works, Walsall. Illustrated. p.196 Insolvency of Thomas Hucker, currier, of Portland Street, Walsall, owing to money owed to him by other bankrupts.
• Vol. II No.1 (July 1892) p.2 Bitmakers` Society. Robbed by Cllr. Hykin, the Treasurer, who has made off with all the funds. p.3 ETHolden has raised the question of tariffs in the House of Commons. p.7 Pioneers of the Trade: Hampson and Scott (Whittimere Street, Walsall) Founded 1769 in Walsall by Thomas Birch. Photos of directors etc. Scott`s patent stirrup invented by John Scott. New premises erected 1890. “No other warehouse in Walsall is as large or contains as many hands”. p.9 Exhibition at Saddler`s Hall, London. Most complete display of saddlery ever assembled. Fine case of plated goods sent by Ferdinand Eglington of Walsall, but rather hidden away. Assorted Royal saddles including Q. Victoria`s side saddle, donkey saddle used by Royal princes etc. p.13-14 Technical instructions on whipmaking, by W and G Ashford of Birmingham. p.15 Trade Society Doings. Manchester society criticises Walsall Society for apathy: “It seems strange that in a town where saddlery is the staple trade, such a lack of unionism should exist”. Liverpool Society claims “We suffer principally from Walsall competition.” Implies that this is due to unfair practices. “Do our Walsall brothers get a fair wage for this work, or is it true that we suffer largely from female labour and a sort of modified sweating system?”
• Vol.II No.2 (August 1892)
p.24 John Dewsbury and Sons are extending their Littleton Street premises.
p.25 Mr H.Willis of Hatherton Street makes a speciality of race saddlery.
p.27 Pioneers of the Trade: Reuben V.Barrow [tanner?]
p.29 Exhibition at Saddlers Hall contd.(part 2)
• Vol.II No.3 (September 1892) p.41 `More Thoughts`[editorial]. Harness and saddlery from Walsall have been termed rubbish. But factory-made goods are replacing home made everywhere eg Coventry ribbons. We should accept this as fact. Division of labour tends to improve quality of things because the men become specialists. We now accept boots from Leicester and Nottingham [Northampton ?], despite initial prejudice against them. p.47 Pioneers of The Trade: Messrs. Chase and Fenner, London Saddlers` ironmomgers originally est. 1666. p.53 Whips and whipmaking (part 3) p.55 Spirited defence of Walsall union [by Secretary of Harnessmakers Union?]. Claims that there are 170 members in the union and only 2 harnessmakers in the town are not members . Walsall men better paid than anywhere else. p.57 Fires. Major fires at REThackers saddlers ironmongers, and also at Joseph Carver`s whip factory (Pool Street).Latter fire the worst in recent history. p.58 Profile of M. JWChesterton, of C Gtreatrex, latterly of JWChesterton and Co, saddlers ironmongers.
• Vol. II No. 4 (October 1892)
p.63 State of cycle trade very disappointing in B`ham compared to 1891. Coventry, the centre of the trade, `in a state of collapse`. p.67 Pioneers of the Trade: Insole and Grimley of B`ham. Est 1790 in New Street B`ham. Saddlers and manufacturers of carriage lamps and coach ironmongery. Now in Hurst Street B`ham. p.70 Exhibition at Saddler`s Hall (part 3). p.75 Detailed criticism of Walsall unionists by Manchester union. Walsall supported saddlers` union in 1867 but then reneged, again in 1877, 1883 and 1889. Disputes the claim that Walsall workers are the best paid, and says there are certainly more than 167 harnessmakers in the town. Similar criticisms of Walsall from the Bolton society. p.78 Overton and Co. have produced second edition of their Saddler`s Red Book .
• Vol.II No.5 (Nov. 1892) p.83 Conditions bad in Walsall -30 members [of what?] out of work, 70 more barely getting a living. The only busy firms are those engaged on govmt. contracts. p.87 Pioneers of the Trade : Messrs John Leckie and Co.
Originally based in Glasgow. Est 1849. John Leckie joined the business a few years later. Branch factory opened in Newport Street Walsall 1874.The Leckie family moved to Walsall c.1878. In 1886 bought the large and commodious factory in Goodall Street. An average of 250 people employed at any one time, but more when they are working on govmt contracts. Factory was purpose built. The firm curry all their own dressed leather, in which they also trade, especially export. Steam power is used to drive the sewing machines- over 12 in number. Have their own fancy leathergoods dept. Now one of the largest and best firms in the export trade. The principals are Mr John Leckie, Mr W Graham Leckie, Mr Joseph Leckie and Mr John Leckie Junior. p.93 Whips and whipmaking (part 4) p.95 `Tade Society Doings`. London union criticises Walsall claims, eg regarding wages: “…the Walsall minimum wage is four shillings below the London minimum , and is less than that of some other towns”. Urges the Walsall men to organise the women stitchers “and lift them from the underpaid position they occupy in the labour world.”
Lengthy piece from Manchester union complaining about master saddlers selling Walsall- made goods as their own make. Customers would not pay such high prices if they knew they were Walsall made. Dishonest practice which undermines position of workers outside Walsall.
Walsall union says that since formation of union in 1890 wages have increased by an average of 20 %.
Liverpool union says that few local saddlers now bother to try to make harness because Walsall stuff is so cheap that they cannot compete. The number of harnessmakers in Liverpool has halved over last 20 years. Asks how many in Walsall have to work for `starvation wages` to produce harness so cheaply? p.98 Second annual dinner of Walsall Union of Harnessmakers. Mr Morrison of London soc. gives address.
• Vol. II No. 6 (Dec 1892)
Pioneers of the Trade, WTGibson of London Mfrs of luggage, bags, cases and saddlery.
p.113 Handford Greatrex and Co doubling the size of their tanyard
p.116 Trade Society Doings Preston correspondent speculates that Walsall`s domination of the harness trade is such that in years to come men will have to send their sons to Walsall or B`ham to learn the trade fully. Shops in other towns are losing the skill of being able to make certain types of goods.
• Vol. II No.7 (Jan 1893)
Walsall business is in a `very depressed` condition. p.126 Walsall Chamber of Commerce has new office and reading room, well stocked with commercial magazines. Under the able chairmanship of John Scott [of Hampson and Scott]. p.127 Pioneers of the trade: Messrs J.H. Hawkins and Co of Walsall . Founded in 1840 by John Hawkins. Apprenticed age 9 to the bit making trade at Harden. Moved to Station Street in 1857. In 1851 he had opened a branch factory in Lisle Street, London. He exhibited at the Great Exhibition where he won a prize medal. In 1870 he held a three year contract to supply all of the British army`s spurs. The Crimean war, the Indian Mutiny and the Franco-Prussian War all gave a fresh impetus to the trade, “orders poured in galore”. “A man possessed of considerable temper, but under a rugged exterior he had a generous heart.”
JH died in 1891 aged 78, the business now run by his two sons James and Benjamin. Detailed description of the works follows.
p.128. The old established firm of Messrs Brace recently joined by Messrs Windle and Blyth, wholesale stationers and export merchants. Now known as Brace Windle Blyth and Co. Ltd
p.138 The simplex bit patented by Messrs Matthew Harvey and Co.
Vol. II No. 8 February 1893
P142 Hours of labour in the trade. London Saddle and Harnessmakers Trade Protection Society reckon in their 20 th report that average hours of the trade are 56 ½ per week. A tendency in the trade at present to agitate for reduced hours.
Comment re Walsall: “To us the town had been looked upon as the happy hunting ground for those who wish to escape the payment of fair wages, and where it was difficult for us to fight them”. But Walsall workers in every branch of the trade are now supporting unions. p.144 Walsall trade in a bad way- many on short time. p.148 Table of annual saddlery and harness exports from 1880 to 1892. Total sales 1880= £436,000. Total sales 1892= (£480,000). Peak year for exports was 1890= £642,000. p.152 Technical instructions- spurs and spurmaking. Detailed account (illustration missing) of how to hand forge a spur. Info supplied by Messrs J.Withers and Co of Wisemore. The hand forged spur is made from a single piece of metal, and is not welded at the neck. Consequently very strong.
[Nb copy of the relevant illustration is in the photo collection at WLM] p.154 Employees of Messrs Leckie held their annual soiree. About 200 people present. Tea followed by music and dancing `into the small hours of the night`. p.157 National cycle show. Many B`ham companies involved making bicycle saddles, including D.Mason and Sons. Regrets that Walsall firms not involved in the trade.
Vol.II No. 9 March 1893 p.162 Messrs Kirkpatrick and Cos. list of stable and harness room fittings. p.162 Mr. JABarnsby making leather saddle `pannels` a speciality. Mr.Barnsby well known as the inventor and patentee of the improved safety bar. p.164 Mr.Joseph Carver, whip mfr. of Eldon Street, Walsall, exhibiting a display of over 700 varieties of whip at the Chicago world fair. The handles and stocks beautifully made from ivory and costly woods. p.174 Messrs Hampson and Scott`s list is very comprehensive- over 2000 items. p.177 Footballs being made by William Thomlinson of Partick, Glasgow. Claims that his 8 panel soccer balls and his rugby balls are the only perfect ones on the market.
Vol.II No.10 (April1893) p.184 May Day decorations. May Day parades are in decline and often consist of only one or two horses. They should be promoted to improve the trade. Some very smart and attractive May Day goods at Messrs Hampson and Scotts`. p.185 Messrs Perry and Hodson, harnessmakers, have started in business at 81 Ablewell Street Walsall. p.185 Mr John Scott of Hampson and Scott elected President of the Walsall Chamber of Commerce. Mr AW Greatrex (of Handford Greatrex and Bro.) appointed vice- president.
Vol. II No. 11 (May 1893)
p.202 “Now the recognised custom” to produce illustrated catalogues and sheets of the various trades. Hanging show cards of Messrs REThacker of Green Lane. p.207-209. Through the works of Messrs. Martin and Martins, Granville Street Birmingham. Mfrs of black and brown saddlery and harness, bridles, belts and braces, cycle accessories etc. Employ nearly 300 people. Premises very up to date with telephonic communication throughout. Good photos of factory interiors. p.216 Bridle making competition. Photo of the judges, Mr George Butler, Mr R Dewsbury, and Mr. J Broughton Sr.
Vol. II No.12 (June 1893)
p.222 Low wages in the harness trade. Partly caused by employees setting up on their own with insufficient business experience and inadequate capital, and undercutting prices for everyone. Some journeymen in the trade earning just 18 or 20 shillings per week.
p.225 Article on `Ripon Spurs`, citing paper by TC.Heslington in `Bygone Yorkshire`.A celebrated centre of the trade, cited by both Ben Johnson and Davenant. King James presented with a pair of Ripon Spurs in 1617. Trade became extinct in the late 18 th century, due to excessive regulation by the guilds and growth of other centres [ie Walsall!]. p.231 patent granted to Thomas Griffiths Withers and Samuel Withers [of Wisemore Walsall] for improvement in spurs. Patent ref 9298. p.234 Mr John Leckie interviewed re his 12 month visit to the Cape. Trade poor due to previous over-stocking. Has some hopes that the `northern goldfields` may develop. p.240 Death of Mr E.Price, currier, of South Street Walsall. Producer of the very best quality leather.
Vol.III No.1 July 1893
p.1 Editorial. Walsall as a centre for cheap saddlery and harness production. “ Walsall manufacturers can produce harness at much less cost than can be obtained elsewhere, and this seems to have caused envy amongst some…we confess that Walsall can produce cheaper harness than any other town in the Kingdom, and we glory in the fact, for therein lies the secret of the prosperity of our town; but while common harness is produced here, some of the very best is also turned out”.
P5 Presentation by Walsall to HRH Duke of York [later George V] and Princess May of Teck of a side saddle and a pair -horse harness. Jealousy amongst those makers not invited to make the items. p.7 Account of John Leckie`s travels around South Africa. Sees SA as a relatively small market for British saddlery and harness. The entire white pop. of the country is smaller than that of Birmingham.
Pp9-11 Detailed profile of Messrs Herbert Ashman of Broadmead, Bristol, leather importers and merchants and mfrs of leggings, belts etc. Illustrated with engravings of the factory. p.12 Patents: TG Withers and Samuel Withers [of Wisemore, Walsall]. Improvements in spurs and the means of attaching them to boots and shoes. p.15 Trade Soc Doings. Decline of Liverpool trade. Blames the impact of “cheap Walsall competition”, also little men setting up on their own with insufficient capital and undercutting others by working excessive hours. p.19 Messrs Cozens and Co.,curriers, of Wolverhampton, have found it necessary to establish a Walsall works in view of growing demand for their products. New premises in Duncalf Street for currying of leather.
Volume III No 2 August 1893
p.33 Through the works of Messrs Henry Howell and Co, walking stick mfrs. of London.
p.38 Patents. S.Adderley, 66 South Street, Walsall. Patent for saddle plates.
p.40 The Antiquity of the Saddle. Article with line engravings of 17 th saddles.
Volume III No.3 September 1893 p.52 Messrs Pearson and Bennion of Leicester and their new patent harness sewing machine. They “are more than ever convinced that in the very near future hand stitching will be superseded in the harness trade by the machine”, as has already happened in the mfr. of boots and shoes. p.56 New patents in safety stirrups. New patterns introduced by Messrs Hampson and Scott. p.63 Patents: Clippers by WJEwins of Bloxwich Road, Walsall. Harness saddles by T Wincer of Littleton Street, Walsall. p.70 Bankruptcy of Edward Redgate, bridlecutter, harness maker and web mfr. Warewell Street, Walsall (previously Butts Road). Very interesting details of career history and problems of the business and its slide into debt. ER`s attempt to escape creditors by fleeing to New York in disguise. Arrested and brought home and facing trial.
Volume III No.4 October 1893 p.73 Walsall Wakes Week, in the days following St Matthew`s Day. p.74 Case of death of a rider by being dragged by a horse, due to rider`s foot being caught in stirrup, at Ruabon near Overton. p.74 Herbert Ashman and Co exhibiting in Bristol exhibition. p.87 Patents. Riding saddles, J.Trees and H Brace, Goodall Street, Walsall. p.89 Article “Stirrups and Stirrup Making (Hand Forged)” from details supplied by Messrs Hampson and Scott. Includes description of jagging.
“The filing, burnishing and finishing processes are slow and tedious, and require a true eye and steady hand.” p.94 Scandal of the suicide of Mr Godolphin, a saddler at William Jenkinson`s factory in London. Debate about saddlers` hours of work, pay, conditions etc. Various differences of opinion. Jenkinsons state the men work a regular 56 hour week, but have had some men on half time of late. JT Morrison has claimed that Godolphin was being exploited. Letter signed by 27 of Godolphin`s colleagues refuting this and saying Jenkinsons are fair employers, and that Godolphin `did not receive much comfort at home`.
Interestingly article refs to men as `sewers`(not stitchers). Godolphin apparently a sewer. [In Walsall this work would have been done by women].
Volume III No 5 November 1893
p.103 The Worlds Fair at Chicago. Exhibitors include Joseph Carver, “undoubtedly the finest exhibit in the show connected with the harness trade”. Carvers display some 700 whips. Benjamin Cope of Bloxwich displaying stirrups spurs etc.
p.105-107 Article about Ellimans (embrocation mfrs) of Slough, with very attractive engravings.
p.111 Arthur Eglington marries Martha, the youngest daughter of John Leckie. Trade Fed claims that out of 250 brown saddlers in Walsall 53 are out of work, and those who are in work are working half time.
p.113 The Art of Herald Chasing. The finest of all the arts connected with the saddlery trade. Account of processes involved. Info supplied by Harry Gill of Vicarage Street, Walsall, the nephew of Mr J.Midgley who came to Walsall in 1828, having learnt the trade in London.
Volume III No 6 December 1893 p.132 Visit of Sir Edwin Smith(celebrated Australian pioneer) of Adelaide to Hawley and Smith, brush manufacturers in Lower Hall Lane. Business once belonged to Sir Edwin`s uncle, Mr Joseph Cook, and he worked there in his youth. p.137 The art of brushmaking. Good account, but lacking the original illustrations. p.137 The 1891 census. Walsall now the largest centre of the saddlery trade in UK, [having overtaken London ]. Birmingham the third largest centre. Walsall now employs 5684 in saddlery trade compared to 3492 in 1881.
• Walsall 5684 • London 3877 • Birmingham 1771 • Glasgow 467( see p.162 below) • Dublin 356 • Manchester 292
Vol. III No. 7 January 1894
p.164 Mr J.Lynch of Wednesbury Road, bridlecutter. p.146 London Saddlery Works (J.Leckie and Co)held its annual soiree on Monday 11 th December. Songs and musical performance followed by dancing. p.149 Mr Steven Wilson wholesale harness manufacturer, has moved. Mr George Bird has taken over old established business of Edward Adderley, mfrs of harness carriage pads in South Street Walsall. p.150 One page obituary of Benjamin Cope of Bloxwich . Useful business history. Died 11.10 1894 aged 76 at his house in Portland Street, Walsall. Commenced in business on his own aged 21 [ie c.1818], later taking over his father`s business in the Pinfold Bloxwich [adverts claim company was est. 1810]. Acquired land in Leamore Lane to build the Providence Works. Originally just made bits, buts since about 1870 also making stirrups and spurs, as well as leathergoods, incl. bridles, belts, braces garters, purses and fancy leathergoods. In 1883 adding a currying works as well, to supply leather to the business. p.161 Captain Hayes, equine expert , lectures in Walsall on saddlery. Comments that wherever he hears the phrase `Made in Walsall` it is said with “evil meaning”. But he cannot see why: “why should people imagine that saddles can be made better in London than Walsall?” p.161 Messrs Pearson and Bennion, sewing machine mfrs, opening a sewing machine show room in Bradford Street, Walsall. p.161 Census report for 1891, Scotland and Ireland. Glasgow the main centre, employing 467 people in saddle and harness making, Edinburgh 265, Dublin 356.(see p.137 above). p.164 An American harness mfr. has opened a factory in Walsall using English leather and labour to produce saddlery for the American market.[Mark Cross?]
Vol.III No 8 Feb 1894
p.170 Editorial refuting the claim (by London Saddlers` Fed.) that Walsall and Birmingham are centres of sweated labour and exploitation of women and lads. Female labour in the harness trade only does stitching and it is not a new introduction but has been going for 20 years. There are very strict rules on the employment of apprentices and the numbers which may be allocated to each man, with a maximum of three apprentices in total in each factory. p.173 Thomas Ash of Oxford Street, Walsall has extended his range to incl. gig saddles and bicycle saddles.[earliest reference to bicycle saddles being made in Walsall so far found] p.177 Centenary of Hampson and Scott, with photos of the main directors and managers. p.178 Captain Hayes again. Mentions prejudice against Walsall-made saddles in favour of London made. On examination it turns out that much of the so- called `London made` stuff is Walsall made anyway. p.185 Patent studless spur introduced by Messrs Withers and Son of Wisemore Walsall. New design does away with the need for studs and buckles. p.187 Patents: Mr John Leckie , Mr REThacker .
Vol.III No9 March 1894
p.200 A new firm: Messrs J. Harwood and Co., wholesale gig saddle manufacturer of 70 Brace Street has been est.
p.215 Bankrupcty of Ann Wootton trading as William Wootton harness mfr. of nos.11-12 Freer Street, Walsall
Vol.III No.10 April 1894
p.223 obituary with photos of Mr PW Martin of Martin and Martins of Granville Street, B`ham, saddlery and harness and fancy leathergoods makers.
p.229 Through India on Business and Pleasure by Henry Greatrex of Handford Greatrex and Bro of Walsall. Large govmt saddlery and harness factories in Calcutta and Cawnpore. Indian employees supervised by English overlookers. Part 2 below (p.249)
p.239 Bankruptcy of George J Archer, saddler of Walsall.
Vol.III No.11 May 1894
p.242 Matthew Harvey and Co registered 23 rd April with capital of £60,000. p.245 Debate about inferior cast iron (malleable) bits being sold as hand forged or steel. p.249 Through India on Business and Pleasure (article contd. Part 2, see p.229 above)
Vol.III No.12 June 1894
p.273 Patents: Messrs Eylands, buckles.
indexed to Vol. IV No 1, July 1894 p.2 Defintion of terms:
-`Full shafto` is only another way of saying all-over hogskin. -`Half shafto` signifies hogskin seat, skirts, and knee rolls, with solid cowhide flaps. -`Demi` signifies hogskin seat and knee rolls, but with both skirts and flaps solid cowhide.
P. 5 Mr Henry G Greatrex has retired from Messrs Handford Greatrex and Bro, tanners and curriers, Mr Arthur Whitehouse Greatrex to continue the business. p.5 J Broughton and Son harness mfrs of Hart Street Walsall, have been awarded a medal. Burton-upon Trent tannery once again in full production. p.6 Patent for buckles. By Mr H Pratt of Lysways Street. p.7 Account of exhibition at the Royal Aquarium Westminster. Stand of Mr. JABarnsby , the most complete in the show. Photo showing stand [with Mr Barnsby Junior.] p.11 Patents. Stirrup by Mr J[ohn] Scott of Inglestone, Mellish Road, Walsall. Saddle trees by Mr JNBarnsby (sic). Harness by J and PT Broughton. p.14 Convertible pilch made by Mr William Christie of Station Street, Walsall. Suitable for use by a two year old in place of a basket saddle. p.19 Messrs Overton and Co of Freer Street. Success of their diamond pattern harness furniture. p.21 Proceedings in Bankruptcy. Hill Horder Bowen, harness and horse clothing mfrs. of Queen Street Walsall. List of debtors, many from Walsall incl. J Noake and Noirit Bros. p.23 Letter from “A Lancashire Saddler”. Complains about the way in which Walsall and London firms will deal direct with customers, undercutting “the poor village saddler”, despite their claims that they only supply the wholesale trade.
Vol. IV No.2. August 1894
p.26 London Saddlery Works trip. Messrs John Leckie and Co of the London Saddlery Works, Walsall, held their annual workspeople`s trip on the 21 st ult.300(people) journeyed to Blackpool, leaving Walsall at 5.00am and returning Sunday morning at 3.00am.
p.28. Government Contracts: Invitation to Tender. List of equipment required for Canadian forces. Runs to over 70,000 items.
p.29 Job Wheway of Birchills Walsall has bt. out the old established firm of Messrs S Marsh and Son of Patent Hame Works, West Bromwich.
p.31 `Notable Saddlers and Worthy Sons of Saddlers` Includes: • Thomas Tesdale, founder of Pembroke College, Oxford. • Thomas Cure, saddler to Edward VI, Mary and Elizabeth, d.1588 • John Bingham, saddler to Queen Elizabeth, and James I, d. 1625 • Elias Ashmole, son of a Lichfield saddler, founder of Ashmolean Museum. [nb George Stubbs, son of currier, WMTurner, son of saddler; Alfred Sisley grandson of saddler, Robert Owen son of a saddler, Mrs Craik dau of a tanner, Robert Kett of Kett`s Rebellion, son of a tanner, Diderot, son of tanner etc] p.33 Very clear and useful article distinguishing characteristics of different metals: cast iron, wrought iron, malleable iron, steel etc. Article claims that good malleable iron bits differ little in quality from (hand) forged ones and are cheaper. p.47 Note on recent fashion for ladies to ride to the off side when riding side saddle. Started about four years ago.
Vol. IV No 3, September 1894 p.53 Messrs JABarnsby`s employees have enjoyed their annual picnic at Great Haywood near Cannock Chase. p.55 Photo of extraordinary combined saddle and couch made by William Christie of Walsall, for the use of a missionary going to Matabeleland. Enables the user to sleep rough when required. p.62 Patents. WG and JA Leckie of the London Saddlery Works, Walsall, are patenting new model sample sets, designed to assist commercial travellers when selling saddlery. p.65 (opposite) Adverts by Messrs JHHawkins, for hand forged bits, urging customers only to accept the true article which they have been producing for 60 years. Advert for rye straw for horse collar makers.
Vol. IV no.4, October 1894
p.77 “Through the Argent Works [saddlery factory] with Notebook and Camera”. No.33 Station Street Walsall (W.Overton and Co).The firm originally Overton Bros. est 1869. Shortly after took over Thomas Newton and Co [1872]. Partnership dissolved in 1877, Mr.W.Overton moving to Station Street, his brother moved to Freer Street, to est Overton and Co. Good photos. Describes casting shop where nickel goods produced. Shaking barrels driven by an Otto 8HP gas engine. Bobbing shops also driven by gas engine, bobs varying from rough emery to calico and (softest of all) swansdown for really brilliant polish. p.80 Walsall and District Gig Saddlers Union. A smoking concert held at the Crown Inn. Society in its 5 th year. Has disbursed over £60.00 in out of work pay, and £20.00 to members who have been thrown out of work. £180.00 in the bank. p.87 The `Centaur` composition bit, made by Messrs John Dewsbury of Littleton Street, Walsall(illustrated). p.94 Bankruptcy of William Thacker, wholesale harness mfr of Marsh Street Walsall.
Vol IV No 5 November 1894
p.98 The problem of `Saint Monday`ie workers absconding and not turning up for work on Mondays.
p.101 Notable Members of the Trade: Mr H S Wilton (Champion and Wilton) Owner of Champion and Wilton. At 457/459 Oxford Street. One of the leading West End saddlery firms. Made Queen Victoria `s first saddle when HSW was only 19 years old, some 63 years ago [ie 1831].
p.109 Patents: J Scott, Clarence Works Walsall, safety stirrup, reg March 21 st 1893
p.109 Patents: BET Cope, Greenhurst, Bloxwich. Patent for safety stirrup, April 1893.
Vol IV No.6 December 1894 p.127 Reference to the “long depressed condition of the trade.” p.135 Provisional Patents: John Beebee and Benjamin Beebee, improvements in gullets for saddle trees (address given as Chancery Lane) p.135 Patent granted no 7949 for making bombillas, April 19 th 1893, granted to HRBarton of Goldthorn Villas, Aldridge.
Vol.IV No 7 January 1895
p.146 Sick and Provident Society of the London Saddlery Works Walsall [John Leckie and Co] held their annual meting on Dec 27 th [1894] in the Temperance Hall Walsall. Society formed 2 years ago; over 160 members. p.147 Thomas Dixon and Son. Sole inventors and patentees of the plough gauge and double roller splitter. pp153-155 A Visit to The Albion Mills Saddlery Co of Harford Street, Birmingham (near Gt Hampton Street). Good photos of interior. Discussion of the merits of hand sewn and machine sewn saddlery. The home market will only take hand sewn work, knowing it to be more durable, but America and markets supplied by the Americans will not pay the extra cost involved, and will only buy machine sewn. Details of the cycle saddle dept. process of mfr. New use of cold steel springs in seats. Blocking of leather seats.
“Like most firms nowadays, the…Company in order to extend their business and to facilitate matters for their customers, issue an illustrated catalogue and price list printed in colours.” p.157 Messrs TG and S Withers of Wisemore Street Walsall. Patent granted for spurs. p.164 Messrs Hobday and Smith, brown saddlers of Walsall [Navigation Street] have dissolved their partnership, business now being conducted by Mr Smith.
Messrs Martin and Martin`s display of cycle saddles.
Messrs Butler Bros of 48 Park Street Walsall, are dissolving their partnership. One brother, Henry Butler, is taking the Australian branch of the business, and the other brother, John Edward Butler, is taking New Zealand.
Vol.IV No 8 February 1895 p.176 Government Contracts: War Dept. Tenders. List of items to be tendered for, due by January 1896. List runs to grand total of 182,958 items, including the following: 4200 horse shoe cases, 6000 bearing reins, 5340 leather girths, 8030 stirrup leathers, 11670 cloak and wallet straps, 670 nosebag straps, 1356 bayonet frogs, 2000 water bottle straps, 2700 pairs of great coat straps, 2200 mess tin straps. p.181 S and H has viewed the very first Scott`s patent stirrup sold. After ten years hard wear “in admirable condition”. In constant use by lady owner since 1884, who has just returned it to the mfr. to be rejagged [ie new tread]. Hampson and Scott have supplied the owner with a replacement. p.184 The Co-op Padlock Society [Walsall], patent for cased cart hames. p.188 Partnership of B Beebee and Nicklin, black saddlers, has been dissolved. William Nicklin now has own factory in Holtshill Lane.
Vol IV No. 9 March 1895
p.197 Notable members of the trade, Mr Matthew Cooper of York, saddler. p.200 Pearson and Bennion of Leicester claim “old prejudice” against machine- sewn leather is breaking down.
Pp. 201-204 Messrs D Clark and Son brush manufacturers, Detailed account of brush making, with photos. Founded 1849 in Station Street. Preparation of wooden stocks for the brushes, using steam powered drills. Bristle warehouse, holding £10,000 worth of bristles, mostly from Siberia, from wild pigs. Bristles must be `drawn`[ie bound] using copper, brass or iron wire. Bristles secured and then trimmed with shears. DC and Co making ¼ million brushes for govmt. a year, also making large nos. for UK and foreign rly. cos. Present factory built 1876. Very aware of fire, building designed to minimise risk. p.211 Messrs Hampson and Scott`s new price list. p.215 Death of Reuben Craddock Sr. of St Paul`s Terrace, factory in Wisemore , the Wisemore Bridle Bit Works. Firm will continue to mfr. bits, spurs, stirrup irons etc. Business carried on in Harden where RC born n 1835 [cf life history of JHHawkins, born in Harden in 1814 ].
Vol IV No. 10 April 1895
p.221 Detailed profile of James A Jacobs and Co, of Finsbury.
p.225 Patents. 3549 William Graham Leckie, London Saddlery Works. Improvements in harness.
p.226 Patent Abridgments. July 13 1893 Stirrups, Messrs Hampson and Scott July 31 st 1893 Safety stirrup, BETCope, Glenhurst, Blowxich. p.237 Obituary of Mr William Farnell Butler, aged 47. Residence `The Birches`, Sutton Coldfield. Son of Edward Butler of the firm of Edward Butler and Sons, merchants and manufacturers of saddlery, coach and saddler`s ironmongery, of 74 Park Street, 447 Kent Street, Sydney, and 93 Edward Street, Brisbane. Remaining members [directors?] of the firm are Mr James E Butler and Mr Frederick Rathbone. p.237 Death of Mr W.J.Turney of Stourbridge. Took over leatherworks of Joseph Pitman in 1867, and increased trade sixty- fold during his time in charge. Branches established in Paris and new York. He paid for the Town Hall in Stourbridge.
Vol.IV No. 11 May 1895
p.253 Details incl. patterns for making a set of Scotch cart harness. Supplied by Robert Lyon of Keith. Superb photo of harness on p.254
p.256 Mr Blyth elected President of the Walsall Chamber of Commerce. p.256 Harry Beebee and Co has purchased the business of Holmes and Salt, curriers and leather merchants of Park Street Walsall. p.257 Mr George Lipsett, for some years traveller for Whitehouse Cox and Hartley, setting up on his own .
Vol IV No 12 June 1895
p.270 Frank Pardoe brown saddler trading as Simmons and Co, of Walhouse Street Walsall. Committed to Quarter Sessions for suspicion of arson, having insured his stock for £300 a few days before fire broke out. Suspicious circumstances, has been imprisoned and awaiting trail.
p.276 Shoe and Leather Fair, Islington. Messrs. Pearson and Bennion. No 6 sewing machine, lock stitch machine, 200-360 stitches per minute, 4-16 stitches to the inch. up to ¾” leather , even when operated by unskilled labour. Thread automatically supplied to the needle “altogether beyond the fickleness which used to be so common to machines of this class.”
p. 282 Bankruptcy of CHJ Marshall. Detailed account. Brown saddler of Wisemore, Walsall. Got into serious debt despite inheriting £1500 worth of property. Denied gambling but admitted to running a horse, Froghorn , in Lichfield Races!
Vol V July 1895
p.2 `This is an age of illustrated lists`. Latest catalogue is by Messrs REThacker of Alexandra Works, Walsall. The “largest and most complete we have yet seen for the country trade.“ 129 pages, each copy to be printed with name of saddler receiving it.
p.7 Photo showing the 4000 copies of June issue of Saddlery and Harness being despatched from Walsall PO.
p.8 Vignette of leather trade. No.1 Japanning Leather.[ Vignettes all seem to be the work of Henry Somerfield, a talented local artist who was a member of the Kirby family]
p.9 Profile of Mr John Lane, of London, mfr of harness composition etc
p.23 Bankruptcy of Zachariah Jones, hamemaker, of 119 Wolverhampton Street Walsall. A journeyman until 1879 when set up in business without any capital. Judged to be illiterate, kept no books or any accounts.
Vol V, August 1895
p.26 Messrs Overton and Co of Freer Street Walsall and their horse clipper. p.27 Notable Members of the Trade: Mr G E Harries of Shrewsbury, saddler, unique as a provincial saddler in his international fame. During time of Empress [Elizabeth] of Austria, Shropshire was a famous hunting county. The Empress “made this region famous a few years since by hunting in it with untiring energy. She brought with her a large Court following and made things go merrily for several seasons.” She promoted English- made saddlery on the continent, “being a great admirer of English hunting and driving outfits.” Much of current popularity of English equipment is due to her. p.33 Tanning and Currying at Messrs Handford Greatrex and Brother of [Lichfield Street] Walsall. A very detailed account with photos. One of only a small number of firms processing skins and hides right through from raw to finished state. Co has operated the site since 1870, but origins as a tanning site go back to time of Charles II [ie pre 1685]. Company now run by Mr T Handford Greatrex`s brother , Arthur [Whitehouse]Greatrex.
1) Tour starts with bark warehouse, 100 foot long by 75 foot, capable of cont. 1000 tons of bark. Bark harvested in spring, from middling size trees.
2) Process of tanning starts with market hides Horns and tails removed, horns sent to Sheffield cutlers.Trimmed skins are cast into a pit cont. only clean water, to remove blood and filth. Skins then placed in a pit of water and lime, starting with very weak `spent` solution. Later transferred into pit with stronger solution, soaking for 10-21 days.
3) Skins unhaired over a beam using a concave steel knife. The hair so removed is collected, washed and dried and sold as `doe hair` for stuffing eg saddles.
4) Skins are unfleshed over a beam using a sharp knife. All fat and flesh removed. Lime removed by soaking in pits of water mixed with birds dung [bating]. Hides then worked over using a slate squeegee [slicker].
5) The tanning process now starts, using liquors in pits termed leaches. Weak liquors used first. The skins are more or less continually on the move until they reach the “layers” where they are left for months. Whole process can take 12-13 months.
6) Currying follows. Converts rough, hard and uneven leather into material fit for purpose. Hides are softened in water, scoured to remove the bloom from the surface and to fetch out any filth, well oiled, creases and wrinkles “set out” by pressure using a steel or stone implement called a slicker.
7) Currier`s role is to render the leather soft, flexible and waterproof, and finished to whatever surface is required. 8) Shaving process. Leather is suspended over a beam and shaved using a sharp knife. Leather can easily be ruined at this stage.
9) Japanning a specialism of the firm. Skins nailed to board. Covered in layer of linseed oil and indigo, using a tool called a rail, Smoothed by hand. Then stoved. Then pumiced to make perfectly smooth. Process is repeated 6-12 times . Japanners work stripped to waist to prevent any lint or other material falling on the preparation p.37 Patents. Edward Goddard of 72 Farringdon Street, Walsall, for whip handles. Richard Shutt and Jabez Marshall improved means of attaching hame tugs to hames. Patents Approved. J Leckie new breast collar, November 16 1893. p.44 Vignette, trade Study No 2 Brown Saddlery. p.45 Illustration of 17 th century saddle from the Paton Museum in Dundee, and modern replica.
Vol. V September 1895
p.52 `Horses Again Threatened with Extinction`. “Carriages propelled along the highways by machinery worked with a small amount of petroleum are now causing great excitement in France.” Previous scares were caused by the arrival of the railway and then the bicycle. When railways arrived the stage coach all but disappeared, but the process was a gradual one, and there is no record of any saddler suffering as a result. The same thing happened when bicycles and tricycles arrived. Thousands of cycles are now made every year, yet horses still hold their own. So impact of motor car unlikely to be very serious. [first S and H reference to the motor car] Saddlery and Harness believes “we have nothing to fear” from motor carriage. Considers it “Somewhat ridiculous to suppose that the invention of a motor car can render horses less necessary to man.”
p.58 Patent Abridgements, all Jan 1894: -RE Thacker, Green Lane Walsall, for saddles. -H Carrington, Blue Lane West for stirrups. -E JG and A Jeffries, Walsall, for whip sockets
p.66 Vignette, Trade Study No3, Bit Forging.
p.69 Three new inventions by Mr S Price of Tantarra Works Walsall, all designed to assist with safety of rider.
Vol.V October 1895 p.74 Vignette—Trade Study no.4, Soft Solder Plating p.90 How Footballs Are Made. Detailed technical instructions,[but paper patterns are missing] p.94 Death of Mr John James Hawley, of Park Street Walsall and Lichfield Street, on Sept 8 th 1895.. Mfrs. of rope and twine goods, halters, waterproof rugs, etc. Born 1838, started in business 1860.
Vol. V November 1895 p.98 Editorial: Are Horses Doomed? Considers that for commercial use probably yes, but for pleasure unlikely to be replaced, and any change will be very gradual. p.104 Messrs E Butler sand Sons [of Walsall] saddlers ironmongers and merchants are enlarging premises. Have a lending library for employees and a football and cricket club.
Hartops of Leeds , saddlers ironmongers. Firm originated in Walsall Wood in early 19the century. “At that time the firm simply made all kinds of iron gear work for the merchants only, and early every Saturday morning Mr Hartop took in the finished goods to the Birmingham merchants in the family cart, and brought back the supplies for the following week”. This Mr. Hartop died 1840 . Firm moved to being retailers supplying customers directly rather than through merchants. p.107 “Carriages Without Horses” Detailed account of the meet of motor cars at Tunbridge Wells Agricutural showground in 1895. p.114. Mr R S Elliott tanner and currier of Burton on Trent has moved his Walsall branch to 17 Adams Row. p.117 Messrs Hampson and Scott expanding. New premises in Rushall Street for production of hardware such as bits and stirrups. Clarence Works will in future be used solely for mfr of harness, saddlery and leathergoods etc.
Vol.V: December 1895 p.122 Mr W Christie saddler and saddle tree maker has enlarged his premises [in Station Street Walsall]. His trees are made from best coppice beech from the Thames Valley “thoroughly well seasoned and dry”. p.122 Gathering of the workpeople of ETHolden and Son, curriers. Birth of a son to Mr and Mrs RHHolden cause for celebration. About 150 people present at dinner, finishing at 11.00 o`clock with the National Anthem.
Vol V January 1896
p.168 Death of Mr Charles Sheldon of Sheldon and Sons, bridle cutters of Corporation Street, Walsall, aged 64
p.170 Vignette: Trade Study No 5, Horse Collar Making
p.185 Patents- Messrs Brace Windle and Blyth of Goodall Street, Walsall, for saddles.
Vol. V February 1896
Pl;.184 Patent Abridgements. Brace Windle Blyth and Co, saddles; E Hughes, Lower Forster Street, harness.
Vol V March 1896 p194 Vignette, Trade Study No 6, Whipmaking. p.196 Messrs Philpot and Sons of Vicarage Street Works, Walsall, new patterns in collars and muzzles. p.200 Prince of Wales privately inspected the Daimler motor carriage and other vehicles under the conduct of Hon Evelyn Ellis. HRH personally tested the motor carriage. p.211 One of the largest harness mfrs in Cape Colony is Messrs Fraser and Son, formerly in business in Walsall. Left W. about 15 years ago. “...the stitching is done by Kaffir labour”, but the saddles and horse collars are nearly always imported. Harness made from imported English leather. Black harness very rarely seen, local preference is for tans and browns. p.216 Letters. Alarms expressed re the Horseless Carriage. “What with the light railway running at the side and horseless carriages and traction engines in the middle of the highways and bicycles bringing up the rear, what is to become of the driver of the horse and cart?”. The horseless carriage has some very powerful and influential friends. Meet of the Motor Car Club last month was well supported by MPs, dukes and lords. We must act quickly to oppose any repeal of restrictions on traffic. Signed Diogenes. Another letter from ` One Who Knows Horses ` saying the people of Walsall and Birmingham and everyone in the related trades eg coach building , saddlery , wheelwrights, shoeing smiths, tanners, curriers, carters, woollen and other horse clothing mfrs should be combining to stop what may be a great injury to the horse.
Vol V April 1896 p.217 Well argued editorial stating that Saddlery and Harness will not declare war on the horseless carriage. It is inevitable and to fight it will be act like Canute. “Opposition to it is only a waste if time and waste of energy.” The autocar is coming and it marks the commencement of a new era, creating fresh demands for labour and for trade. For example, while farmers may initially find reduced demand for fodder, they will find it much cheaper to send goods to market. “Wisdom lies not in regretting the inevitable but in adapting oneself to the altered condition of things”. p.225 Trade Reports: B`ham. W Middlemore and D Mason and Sons very busy undertaking Govmt contract work. Great demand for stitchers. Men are being drafted in from all parts of the country. p.238 Novelty horse measure patented by Cooper Webb and Jones of Stockwell Works Walsall. Retails at 7/6d
Vol V May 1896
Editorial: The Trade and the Autocar. Criticism of the magazine for promoting the motor car and failing to defend the interests of harness makers. S and H responds that “the change is to be deplored, but it cannot be delayed”. p.242 Vignette: Trade Study No 7, Liming and Unhairing. Signed by Henry Somerfield. p.244. Yorks Assoc [of Master Saddlers?] writes to Walsall Chamber of Commerce supporting their stance on the Locomotives on Highways Bill (see below). Messrs Elijah Stanley Victoria Works Walsall has introduced combined hook, bridge and crupper. p245 Autocar News. Attractive drawing of motorists in car by Walsall artist Henry Somerfield. Details of the new Autocar bill. p.246 Statement of the 6 Clauses which the Walsall Chamber of Commerce is seeking to insert in the new Bill. • All vehicles to carry distinguishing lights. • Vehicles not to exceed eight MPH in towns and 15 MPH in countryside. • Speed indicators to be conspicuously placed on all self-prop.vehicles. • All self-prop. vehicles to be furnished with a bell or bells which will be continuously sounded when vehicle is in motion. • All self prop. vehicles to stop when approaching restive horses. • There must be a certified person in charge of all self prop. when carrying two or more passengers for hire.
p.246 Vanner and Prest`s novelty clock in the shape of a horse shoe and stirrup, with a central dial 3” across.
p.247 Profile of Messrs Wolfsky, mfrs of all kinds of bags and cases.
Vol. V June 1896 p.266 The 7th edition of Kellys Leather Directory just published. p.267 Lengthy profile of Messrs John Pound and Co, Leadenhall Street, London, bagmakers. John Pound Senior an Alderman and Sheriff of London. p276 Patent Abridgements. Safety Stirrups. J.Cope and H Taylor, 1894 p279 Mr Gedge MP for Walsall has promised to support in the House of Commons the amendments to the Locomotives on Highways Bill suggested by Walsall Chamber of Commerce.
A Road Safety Association set up by Walsall mfrs to safeguard the interests of the horse. Mr John Scott called for limits on the speed of cars in towns to be 5 MPH and in the country to 10 MPH. Also called for all vehicles to be numbered so they can be identified.
Volume VI July 1896
p.2 Trade Study no.8, Harness Making. Illustrated vignette p.5 Account of the manufacture of silk for saddlery by John W Wilson of the Queen Katherine Works, Kendal. p.7 Marriage announced of Mr R E Thacker Jr. eldest son of Mr Thacker of Alexandra Works Green Lane. p.13 Trade Reports: Walsall curriers have been busy chiefly on cycle work, for cycle saddles and gear case works. A good quarter. p.22 Bankruptcy Proceedings. John Millikin McKinstry, brown saddler, 4a Digbeth, Walsall. Assests £140, liablities £950. Bankrupt was a journeyman brown saddler until October 1889. He commenced in business with £150 from his father in law. p.23 Death of Mr Edwin Hawley, late of Hawley and Smith. Died aged 60 at his home in Sutton Coldfield. Business originally founded by Mr Joseph Cooke, Mr Hawley joining him in partnership in 1872
Volume VI August 1896 p.33 Instructions for making leather belting. Detailed instructions on the manufacture of industrial belting for line shafting, illustrated, with discussion of tools involved.[Part 2 appears in September issue pages 57-61]
Patents. p.39 Patent No 20979 Nov 1 st 1894, saddle tree, J and J Beebee Crown Works Wednesbury Road, Walsall (illustrated)
Patent No 21678 Nov 10 th 1894, for hame hooks. TWMills, Crescent Works, Pleck Road, Walsall.
p.45 The Death of Mr J E Butler, export merchant of Birmingham Road, Walsall, aged 45. Son of the late Mr John Butler, for many years connected with the firm of Butler Bros, Australian merchants of Park Street, Walsall. Deceased had taken on the New Zealand branch of the business.
p.45 Death of Mr James Trees of Brace Windle Blyth and Co, aged 66. Commenced in business with Henry Brace in 1856 as a traveller, later became a partner and director. Retired when Brace and Co merged with Windle and Blyth three years ago.
Volume VI September 1896
Auto Car News . Superb vignette, almost certainly by Henry Somerfield. p.61 Mr William Moss has started a business as a a mfr.of harness furniture, buckles, and cart gear in Day Street, Walsall. p.63 Patent no. 24512 taken out by Cooperative Padlock Society of Neal Street Walsall, Dec 17 th 1894, for hames, illustrated p.67 Syndicate formed for mfr of cycle saddles, Messrs Lamplugh, Messrs Middlemore, and Messrs JBBrookes and Co, all of Birmingham. p.69 Export trade for 1895. With the exception of 1890 probably the best year on record
Volume VI October 1896 p.74 The Glasgow Strike. Strike amongst the Glasgow harnessmakers , as a consequence of the demand for a minimum wage of 26 shillings for a 51 hour working week, and its rejection by the employers. Rates on other centres of the trade are:
• Liverpool, minimum wage is 28 shillings for a 54 hour week • Bolton min wage 28 shillings for 53 hours • Walsall 28 shillings for 54 hours • Edinburgh 20 shillings for 51 hours • Belfast 26 shillings for 54 hours • Manchester 29 shillings for 54 hours
Trade Study No 9, currying.
p.81 Birmingham Trade Messrs D Mason and Sons very busy on cycle saddles, and having problems finding sufficient labour.
p.87 Patents, no 23 776, Dec 7 th 1894, H Frost of New Street, Walsall, safety stirrups. p.91 Messrs G and S Baggott, saddlers, of High Street, West Bromwich, summoned under the Factory and Workshops Act for employing two boys after 7.00pm. Fined p.94 Bankruptcy of George Robinson fancy leather worker of 24 Station Street Walsall. Failure of business due to a change in fashion which led to decrease in demand for the belts which he made. Set up in business in Walsall in 1894 with £60.00 capital.
Volume VI November, 1896
p.100 William Middlemore and Lamplugh and Co have merged to form Messrs Middlemore and Lamplugh of Birmingham and Coventry , mfrs of saddlery and harness etc
Messrs Amphlett and Fulford of Wisemore has been purchased by Messrs Cowley Russell and Co
Pp101-103 Instructions for making leather belts, contd.
Volume VI December,1896 p.128 Walsall`s new mayor is Mr W Smith of the firm of Messrs JHSmith and Sons , curriers of Warewell Street . His brother who also works for the firm was previously the mayor. p.129 Round the Showrooms. Details of fancy goods made for the Christmas market by various companies, including the following from Birmingham:
John Andrew and Co, Ludgate Hill B`ham W and G Ashford of Kent and Essex Strets Birmingham Messrs Webb Ltd of Lower Hurst Street Birmingham G and J Zair, Bishop Street, B`ham Martin and Martin, of Granville Street B`ham p.138 Moseman`s Masterpiece Long awaited publication of Moseman`s catalogue. Contains 300 pages and over 4000 illustrations. “Taken all in all it is without doubt the finest work we have yet seen”. It is being sold at ridiculously low cost of 5 shillings. Messrs W Brookes and Son have some copies in stock.
Volume VI, January 1897
p.145 The year just passed has been “memorable in the annals of history” as the year which marked the revival of the horseless carriage. Whether they will be a success or not is open to question. But trade in 1896 has had a remarkable revival.
p.145 The Worshipful Company of Saddlers is setting up three apprenticeships for the saddlery trade ( based on monies left for the purpose hundreds of years before). If there is not sufficient interest from saddlers they will be offered to allied trades. Pointed comments from the editor criticising the Company for its lack of support of the trade and misappropriation of funds.
p.150 Instructions: How to make a solid leather hat case.
p.151 Cresswell`s patent saddle bar. The patentee Mr T Cresswell of 12 Pool Street Walsall.
p.154 Messrs D Mason and Son very busy in nearly all of their departments. Demand for cycle saddles so great that they are extending their factory.
The Walsall Trade Demand from the cycle trade very strong, inlc leather tool bags, cycle gear and saddles. Motor cars causing some fear in the trade but great improvements will be needed before they make much impact on the trade, and this will take a long time. p.165 Mr W Fulford late of the firm of Amphlett and Fulford has commenced business on his own account at Ablewell Street, Walsall, under the style of William Fulford and Co. p.167 Autocar Parade. Reflections on the future of the horse by a Brighton saddler. p.167 An Improver`s Wail Interesting article re the apprenticeship system by an `improver`. Has recently completed a 7 year apprenticeship, during which he learnt some aspects of the trade, but left many untouched eg the only saddles he made were cart saddles. Now he has completed his apprenticeship he feels he has only learnt part of it and is still learning, which is a humiliation. Blames his employer for not giving him a more rounded training. Much of the stock in the shop was brought in ready made and sold to customers as having been made on the premises. Consequently didn’t get an opportunity to make these things. Also the apprenticeship was only verbal- employer told his father there was no need to burden his son with legal documents. As a result the writer has no come back against his employer. A proper indenture would have forced his employer to teach him the whole trade. Having completed the 7 years apprenticeship he is now earning 13 shillings per week.
The writer thinks that “judging from the present complexion of the trade, the skill is gradually leaving the ordinary saddlers shop”. He makes a comparison with the shoe retailer who professes to be a shoemaker but buys in his stock. It is deceitful to the customer.
“The provincial master saddlers ought to return by degrees to make more of the saddlery and harness requirements on their own premises.”
Volume VI February 1897
p.170 Mr Hargrave of City Saw Mills and Saddle Tree Works, Ripon. The business of saddle tree mfr.has been carried on by the Hargrave family for several generations in Ripon.
Marriage announced of Mr W Graham Leckie eldest son of Mr John Leckie. Marrying Miss Dora Bullows , third daughter of the late Mr Alfred Bullows of Walsall.
pp173-176 Stage and Cart Collarmaking. Detailed description of how to make collars. Illustration of collar stuffing rods and mallets.
p.182 Passing of the Motor Car Act. Passed with little opposition- “what few restrictions are placed on the running of the auto –car are due to representations made by the Walsall Chamber of Commerce.”
p.183 Mr John Scott [of Hampson and Scott] talks of the wholesale saddlery trade and the impact of the motor car. The London to Brighton run was a fiasco. He watched its start from the windows of the Hotel Metropole. “..the world was disgusted and that industry has been thrown back twenty years. I don’t think we have anything to fear because it will take a very long time and require a very good article before the British public will again undo their purses and purchase and patronise the motor car” p.185 “The 1897 Desk Book and Diary”
List of Walsall advertisers includes :
• Anderson and Homer , makers of stable fittings, saddle brackets etc • W Brookes and Son, English agents for Mosemans illustrated catalogue • Edward Butler and Sons • William Christie • Dewsbury and Angel of Marsh Street Saddlery Works, saddlers ironmongers, harness, collar, gig saddle mfrs etc • Dewsbury and Sons of Littleton Street • Mr WAGoold of 53 Caldmore Road. mfr of cycle saddlery and accessories, and all kinds of fancy leather goods. • Hampson and Scott • John Hawley and Co of Goodall Street, Walsall. Mfrs of all kinds of ropes, twines and waterproof oil canvas, halters, plough reins, headstalls, collar twines, bus aprons etc. • ES Hildick and Co est.1755, coach and saddlers ironmongers. • Albert Jagger of Bath Street, Walsall, coach and saddlers ironmonger, carriage lamps made on the premises. • Kirkpatrick and Co. Frederick Street, Walsall, malleable iron founders, mfrs of all kinds of harnessand saddle room fittings.
Volume VI March 1897
p.213 Matthew Harvey and Co, new pattern book of general saddlery hardware, 128 pages.
Volume VI April 1897 p.238 The death of Mr John Cottrell, buckle maker, of John Street Walsall, aged 65.
Volume VI May 1897 p.243 Obituary of Mr Alexander Gordon, late saddler to Queen Victoria aged 85. A native of Glenluce, went to London as a lad and, though quite unfriended, succeeded in building up one of the best known saddlery businesses in the Metropolis. For many years sadler to the queen, and assorted aristocracy. p.248 Mr W Christie has made a steeplechase saddle on an aluminium tree. `Saddlery and Harness` believes him to be the first saddle maker to use this material. It is considerably lighter than wood, enabling completed saddles to be made weighing just over 4lbs.
Volume VI June 1897 p.271 Patents. W Nicklin of Holtshill Lane Walsall, Oct 30 th 1895, for harness saddles.
p.273 Patent granted to HAStanley 9 Vicarage Place, Walsall, cab and gig saddles.
p.281 “Walsall harnessmakers ask for a reduction of hours”. Walsall harnessmakers union has made a demand for a reduction of two hours per week. Meeting held by employers at the Stork Hotel on the 26 th when 18 masters assembled and agreed to the demands. The men will now be working 54 hours per week, minimum wage of 26 shillings.
END OF VOL. VI