Saddlery and Harness Magazine: Summaries `Saddlery and Harness` was a monthly trade journal published by T.Kirby and Sons of Bradford Street, Walsall from July 1891 onwards. Its stated aim was to become “ the authorised and duly- acknowledged organ of the Saddlery and Harness Trades, which, although of universal extent, are admitted to have their chief seat in Walsall; at the same time attention will be given to the claims of other manufacturing centres.” In this it was successful: it quickly became the accepted journal of the trade, and despite a strong bias towards Walsall it regularly included articles about other centres of the trade, and letters from saddlers thoughout the country. The following notes have been extracted from the first six volumes of the Journal, covering the period 1891-1897. This was a period of intense debate and discussion in the trade. The question of wages and working conditions was one area of great concern, and the Journal reflects some hostility towards Walsall manufacturers from saddlers and harnessmakers in other places who claimed they were being undercut by low wages and the exploitation or `sweating` of women workers. These allegations of “sweating” had been the subject of investigation by a recent House of Lords Select Committee. The advent of the motor car was another cause for concern leading to lengthy exchanges of views from 1896 onwards. Whilst some commentators (quite correctly) predicted disaster for the saddlery and harness trade, others were more complacent, dismissing the motor car as an unreliable and expensive plaything which would never catch on. The original volumes from which these extracts have been taken are housed in the library at the Leather Museum, where they are available for consultation. The volumes are complete, with the exception of most of the original adverts. Any text in square brackets has been added by us for the sake of clarification, and is not in the original. Volume 1 (1891-2) • Vol.1 No.1 (July 1891) p.2 Bit trade dispute, over wage rates for certain classes of work, has been running since early in the year. Account is sympathetic to the employees. Piece rate price list drawn up but has yet to be agreed by employers. p.2 Joseph Carver of Eldon Works Walsall, whip maker. One of the oldest established concerns in the town, dating back to the reign of George III. p.2 Job Wheway Green Lane Walsall, chain and cart gear makers. One of their specialities is the double- cased `Lion` hame for timber hauling. p.3 Walsall trade around the world. Mr. Fraser from Walsall doing very well in South Africa: “quite the leading harness manufacturer.” p.4 Walsall harnessmakers` union held first annual dinner June 24 th. Co-operative [horse] collar factory established in Walsall. “We can now boast a Co- operative lock factory, Co-operative chain factory and a Co-operative collar factory.” p.5 Our Export Trade “Wherever the foot of civilized man treads there arises, as a natural consequence, a demand for those goods for which Walsall is so justly famous.” List of a variety of saddles produced: “…an English riding saddle, as used in the West End…a rough, strong, heavy colonial saddle with high knee and thigh pads, as used in the backwoods of Australia….an elaborately quilted Somerset, stitched with bright coloured silk, to meet the special tasks and requirements of the people of South America…” Vast bulk of manufactures go to three main markets: South Africa, the Australian colonies and South America, in that order. The total value of the harness and saddlery exported in 1890, according to the Board of Trade report, was £642,447. “… I wonder what proportion of the goods represented by the above figures were manufactured in Walsall. I should say that one half would be a moderate estimate.” p.6 Description of Messrs Hampson and Scott`s new Clarence Works, Whittimere Street. Firm founded c.1794 by Mr.Birch, bit maker to HRH Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV. Succeeded by son- in law Samuel Cox. Now Hampson and Scott. New factory is four storeys plus basement. Basement and 1st floor are riding saddle workshops, second floor is warehousing and offices, with telephones, third floor is large showroom, fourth floor accommodates 50 stitchers, plus cutters, preparers and finishers. p.7 Life of Tomas Newton The business now trading as Overton and Co, Freer Street. The firm originally established 1735 by TN`s grt. grandfather .Grandfather Thomas was born in 1750. TN`s father William, born 1776, was the first to produce “a book of drawings of the Walsall manufactures.” He also persuaded the first saddler`s tool maker [Adams] to come to Walsall, from Cricklade, Wilts. TN himself born 1810 at Birmingham Road . Educated at Queen Mary`s school etc. Apprenticed alongside Joseph Lavender to his father. Set up in business c. 1830. No brown saddler in Walsall [not strictly true!] and only one or two black saddlers. TN “sent trees with bars on up to London, had the seats drawn on there, and the saddles finished at home...this was the commencement of the ready- made brown saddle trade at Walsall.” Supplied Queen Adelaide and made first direct shipment of goods to Sydney, Australia. TN became an important Govmt. contractor. (`Life`contd. in Vol.1 part 2, see below.) p.8 Messrs Brookes and Sons new premises. Firm has just moved from Bridge Street to Leicester Street. Detailed description of new building. “…staircase being lined with a beautiful glazed tiled dado… the work people have been provided with a tearoom … as yet the building is incomplete.” p.9 Description of paragon whip socket supplied by E.Jeffries of Mountrath Street, Walsall. p.10 E. Stanley and Son, est. 1851. Description of products made. p.13 List of tenders being invited for Govmt. contracts eg 30,000 bed straps, 5,200 sets of waist belts, pistol cases, sword frogs etc. Overton and Co the successors to Thomas Newton (see p.7 above). Their Red Book. p.15 Death of Mr John Hawkins of 16 Station Street. Born 1814. Apprenticed at the age of 8 to his uncle William Gough, bit maker of Harden. Moved to Station Street in 1856. Opened branch in London in Lisle Street, off Leicester Square.[won medal at Great Exhibition 1851] • Vol. 1 No.2 (August 1891) p.18 Bit trade dispute. Negotiations continuing over prices to be agreed for certain jobs. p.20 Govmt. contracts . D.Mason and Sons of Bath Row, B`ham. successful in winning contract. p.23 A Noted Pioneer:Thomas Newton`s life ( Part 2) The Saddlery of All Nations- “the first copy in the British Museum… 30 years after he very much improved upon this by a new edition [1872?]…copied by a host of imitators.” Initiated Walsall`s connection with the Woolwich Artillery. Produced items for His Highness the Khedive Ibrahim (of Egypt) circa 1845; fitted up the showcases for the Walsall manufacturers at the Great Exhibition. Manufactured harness for the Maharajah of Gwalior, India. Started a London office, trebling his trade. Big commissions from Indian army and native princes. Made items for the Maharajah Duleep Singh, a chair saddle with guards and fittings, embroidered pony chair for the Empress of Austria, four- horse harness for the Pasha of Egypt etc. Gave up the business shortly after 1872. Sold the business to Messrs Overton Bros. and retired to Windsor. Travelled around Europe. Died Dec. 1889 aged 79. p.25 Dolman`s patent rubber tread stirrups, made by Henry Frost Ltd. of Fieldgate. p.30 Cycle saddle trade important. Two or three Birmingham firms have a virtual monopoly of the business.[D.Mason, Middlemore`s and Brookes and Sons?] p.30 Perfect race saddle made by Messrs Amphlett and Fulford of South Street, weighing 1½ lbs. p.32 “A Saddler`s Complaint”. Letter listing some of the problems which saddlers have to contend with in day- to- day business: “Long credit, blackmailing of coachmen and grooms…the tip- seeking type of stableman…” • Vol.1. No.3 (September 1891) p.34 Settlement of the Walsall bit trade dispute. Employers agree to reduce standard hours of workmen from 60 hours per week to 57 hours. p.37 The Australian markets are mostly supplied from Walsall. p.43 ET Holden elected as Walsall`s MP. p.44 Thomas Lote Wollatt patents improved single gullet for saddle- tree.[B`ham address given but this probably address of the company`s solicitor as firm was located in Birmingham Street, Walsall] • Vol.1 No.4 (October 1891) p.49 “Thoughts for saddlers”. A response to complaints about problems of the trade. Agrees that six months or even one year`s credit is quite normal in the trade, but argues that saddler should overcome this by becoming more retail focussed, selling other things direct to customers so that they have a steady flow of income. p.50 Awl blade makers dispute in Walsall. £500 has been distributed in strike pay. p.51 Riding saddle trade very quiet. A number of brown saddlers walking around the town, out of employment. p.52 Walsall Brown Saddlers Trade Protection Society formed. About 170 members. p.54 Account of Henry Brace of Goodall Street [later Brace Windle Blyth and Co].Est over 100 years ago by Fletcher. Dealer in saddlery and all saddlers` ironmongery. p.55 Pioneers of the Trade. No.3 E.T.Holden . Firm founded 1819. Detailed account. Holden`s pioneered the introduction of coloured japanned leather, in which they still lead the field. Extensive works including blacksmith`s shop and carpenters` shops.