Prince of BOY Wales Road’s HOLLOWAY ROAD hotspots Top 10 Markets, GEORGE by artist boozers & Exclusive Sian MUST DO hipster co ee Interview Pattenden November issue eight november 2013 North London’s award-winning cultural guide kentishtowner.co.uk FREE

Where is this? Dog Barking At Car Refl ections, by Nick O er

AUTO REALITY

streets of Kentish Town often snapped on his camera fi rst along the railway near Junction are. You only see refl ections - a prolonged period in Barcelona THE have long provided the and assembled as a collage before Road, while the iron fence is from rarely the interior - and this lends once he’d got his MA in Fine inspiration for pop songs, graffi ti, work on the main piece gets the canal path north of Regent’s a sinister aspect to them. I wanted Art. And now his fi rst solo show, the odd novel and the poetry of underway. Park. And the dog? A photograph to contrast this cold technology which takes place in laureates. -based Take a look at our cover Nick took on . with something sentient; so chose this month, features 20 pictures artist Nick Offer infuses his large image, entitled Dog Barking At “I’m interested in combining an animal in a banal setting. A containing elements of K-Town, oil paintings with heavy doses of Car Refl ections. The foreground, unusual - but convincing - dog works well as a metaphor for other parts of London and the NW5’s urban topography too. including the cars, is the elements in a banal context, instinct - in this case fear of the Scottish Highlands. Strangely familiar, yet courtyard of a council block off hopefully to unsettling effect,” unknown.” “I’m a huge fan of Kentish diffi cult to place, his work draws Grafton Road, near the City Farm. he says. “I’d been thinking about Nick settled here with his wife Town,” he says of the area that on an amalgam of local views, The houses in the background run how inscrutable dark shiny cars and daughter fi ve years ago after shapes much cont. p3

92 Fleet Road NW3 2QX Tel: 020 7424 8544 the kentishtowner 3

Editor Stephen Emms

Co-Editor Tom Kihl

Sta Writer Sarah Fox

Contributors Sian Pattenden Clare Nash

Designer Olly Skinner

Logo Russell Loughlan

Published by London Belongs To Me Ltd 2013 www.londonbelongstome.com

Send us nice things: The Old House, 39-41 North Road A vision of what’s to come? London N7 9DP

For subscriptions and O WHAT do you think of Slightly further afi eld – well, section. Head to kentishtowner. any other feedback our cover star Nick Offer’s over the hill and down a bit – we co.uk/travel. And online is where please email us at paintings? What appealed give you the low-down on that the liveliest debates take place too. [email protected] S most to us is that they mirror the most underrated of thoroughfares, dynamic juxtaposition of our area. Holloway Road. Want to support us? We have a To advertise please call If you like them too, make sure you shop at shop.kentishtowner.co.uk Tom Boulter check out his show later this month Still on a food and drink tip, we where you can buy everything from 0207 607 5765 at 5th Base Gallery in Shoreditch. gorge on pulled pork at the Abbey back issues to cover art, T-shirts or email Tavern, sample gins at the Colonel and tote bags. We also have just [email protected] Elsewhere in this issue? Fawcett, and check out new hipster launched an exclusive new kids’ We publish an exclusive full coffee shop Ruby Doc (from the range of hoodies and sweats. length interview with former people behind the acclaimed top: A Leverton’s local squatter Boy George, and Antipodean-owned Lantana in hearse in another of commission artist Sian Pattenden Fitzrovia). Till next month, the paintings in Nick to create another of her hugely O er’s show popular maps of the area. This time If you’re thinking of taking a above: Stephen Emms it’s Prince of Wales Road, probably weekend break this autumn, don’t the hottest street in the postcode. forget we have a thriving travel

cont. from p1 of his art. of a Leverton’s hearse (see pic above). pack of parked cars up Grafton Road. “Living here, you fi nd it doesn’t have “If I believed in the afterlife, this is Tom Kihl the self-conscious attitude found in what I have a hunch it might look like,” east and west London. It’s refreshingly Nick explains. “A rather depressing vision The show is on from Nov 21st – 24th unpretentious.” of cold and anaemic compartments.” at the 5th Base Gallery, Heneage Other local elements to spot at the Seeing our immediate environment Street E1 5LJ. For more info on Nick show include a painting depicting the depicted in his often almost supernatural visit www.nicko er.com Iron Man character standing by the images adds a strange and deeply Heath on Road, looking “a little personal layer to their meaning. You may Buy a limited edition print of Dog unsure of his position,” and a striking well not look at Kentish Town in quite Barking At Car Refl ections from: image of grand terraced windows along the same way again. You’ll certainly feel a shop.kentishtowner.co.uk Kentish Town Road refl ected in the glass little uneasy walking past that menacing 4 MUSIC the kentishtowner

BOY GEORGE, born George O’Dowd, became a household name as lead singer of the Grammy and Brit Award winning band Culture Club in the 1980s. They broke up in 1986, since when he has recorded as a solo artist, written and performed the musical Taboo, and become a successful club DJ. His new album This Is What I Do is out now, and this month he is touring the UK to promote it, stopping off at KOKO in Camden Town on November 10. CLARE ZERNY

What is the most important lesson life has taught you? Life is essentially futile so you might as well inject as much joy as you can. I have discovered that the real joy is in the things we often take for granted. Family, friends, great food, laughter, cuddles, sex, more food. Learn to just “be”. Radiate the light Ich Bin and laugh at yourself constantly. Treasure those you love, ask them how they are and don’t forget KENTISHTOWNER to call. When were you happiest? I squatted on Leighton Road with a gaggle of misfi ts - my friends Myra, Jackie and Andy Polaris - and it was fabulous for a while, but then Marilyn moved in, and he was too much for our neighbour. BOY After trying in vain to chat Marilyn up before realising “it was a geezer” he attacked our door with a hammer. We had to jump out the window and the police were very unkind and barely let us GEORGE back in to get our belongings. Where did you go? We moved around the corner and stayed for another three months. Kentish Town was a time of liberation because we had all just left our family homes and squatting allowed so much freedom. Jesse Birdsall, the actor, was a young rockabilly then who worked in a record shop on the high street. He really had an issue with us, and Marilyn used to stop in front of the shop window and do provocative poses to piss him off. They were primitive times in some ways.

Where would you like to live? I still live close to Kentish Town in Hampstead, in a gothic pile right next to the Heath. I love north London. I once came for an interview at this place called the Milk Churn when I was sixteen and lasted about twenty minutes in the job. I was only washing up, but my punk attire really bothered the other people in the kitchen - so I asked where the toilet was and left. I remember thinking, “bloody snobs, I hate Hampstead” - but ended up living there. Revenge!

“Kentish Town was a time of What is your favourite sound or smell? There used to be a great coffee shop in Delancey Street near Parkway and I’d go in just to sniff the liberation because we had all just coffee beans. I didn’t drink coffee at the time but was drawn to the smell. Now I have surrendered left our family homes and squatting and can’t live without my Doppio espresso in the morning, I don’t know if that place is still there but allowed so much freedom” maybe I will go and fi nd out (It’s still there! Ed) the kentishtowner MUSIC 5

Thinking Out Loud MOYA

I’m really looking forward to going back to the Roundhouse. The last time I was there I supported •Blondie, and it was the most mental evening; the crowd were seriously having it! You can’t beat a London audience.

My favourite Camden haunt is defi nitely Cotton’s Rum Shack. Not only are the drinks •incredible (they have every rum known to man) but the food is also delicious. I’d eat there everyday if I could.

I dislike my hips and bum; why they have to be so big I do not know, but unfortunately I don’t think •they’re going anywhere. I was born with my Dad’s genes. Not. Good.

I honestly had the best pulled pork sandwich I’d ever had from KERB at King’s Cross, which •is basically a food market but the vendors have their own trucks. I’m most defi nitely a complete foodie.

I can’t complain about being called the female Bruno Mars. He’s really soulful and takes it back to •the old school. Supporting Rod Stewart? I still can’t believe to this day that’s something I did. Just being able to •play arenas was incredible, but with a legend – that really topped it all off. I cried like a baby when it all fi nished and would do it all again if I could.

Moya headlines the Roundhouse Studio Theatre on December 5th. Tickets £10 from moyamusic.com

What is your greatest life achievement? telephones. I wish people would get a life Recovery feels like the best thing that has and realise that it’s really none of their ever happened to me: being sober, keeping business. As far as I’m concerned we are my sense of humour and knowing that in this together. It takes two straights to “ Recovery feels things will get better. I’ve worked very create one gay. I hate the way the media is hard to change my outlook and I now so blasé towards homophobic abuse. see the world with crystal clear sober like the best thing glasses. Suddenly I’m looking at the trees What is your most unappealing habit? in Hampstead and thinking “wow”. I feel I can fl y off the handle about silly stuff but privileged to do the work I do. I get paid to I do try to keep it to a minimum. I have a that has ever do what I love. thunder nature like my dad.

What simple thing would improve your The worst thing anyone’s said to you? quality of life? Jesus, I could write a billowing tome on the happened to me” Oh what of things? I don’t think any abuse I have received. I suppose in the end “thing” would improve my life. I have the worst thing anyone can say is “I don’t enough and anything more is really just a love you”. People who slag me off always bonus. Perhaps decent food in airports. A reveal more about their own shortcomings. add a touch of vanilla essence which also What was your best gig? Wholefoods at Heathrow? Complete peace It’s always some sort of feeble projection. helps with sweet cravings. Seeing Siouxsie at Koko the last time she in the world. No more guns or bombs. If I don’t know you then I really don’t care played and of course my forthcoming gig is Everyone chanting for peace! what you think of me but I still love you Where do you hang out? gonna be fantabulous. anyway I often take a coffee in one of the local What is your earliest K-Town memory? shops in Hampstead. I like my Starbucks What has your career taught you? My dad took me to Leighton Road in his What is your guilty pleasure? and I know they’re tax dodgers but they Those that write you off can act as your builder’s van with the little bit of furniture Pizza East is a bit of a treat. I don’t have have reeled me in. Walking on the Heath is inspiration. Be grateful for what you I had and he didn’t realise I was going to many carbs so now and then a pizza is a always nice. Camden Lock Market can be have. Be true to yourself and follow your be squatting. We had heating but no lights great treat meal and it’s just down the road. fun now and then if you want something instincts. The lies people tell about you can so you had to get ready before fi ve or suffer you don’t really need. I like all the thrift make you more interesting. Don’t try to dragging up in candlelight. I had all these What is your favourite dish and why? stores and I do love a charity shop. be in control of everything. Let people do pics of naked 1950s muscle guys on the Gluten-free porridge with soya milk, their jobs. There’s only one Madonna. wall in my bedroom and one day my dad cinnamon, blueberries and a drizzle of Who or what do you hate and why? came and broke in to leave food. He left a agave syrup. Porridge is a great way to start Buddhists don’t hate. It’s so counter And fi nally, tell us a secret. note saying “nice wallpaper”. The shame! the day and it’s so good for you. Simple productive and pointless to hate anyone That’s such a bizarre question. Mind your food is always the best. I always make my and it gives you crow’s feet. own business! I love Julio Iglesias and What makes you unhappy? own porridge and would never use that rugby. All the isms: sexism, racism and of course ready-to-microwave stuff. Soak your oats What do you most dislike about your homophobia. I agree with Stephen Fry overnight and then cook. Cinnamon is appearance? main pic: Dean Stockings that hating gay people is like hating red great for stabilising your blood sugar and Why would I tell you that? I’m perfect! words: Stephen Emms 6 the kentishtowner FOOD Ruby Dock The latest artisan co ee shop to open in the reinvented and now foodie Camden Lock Market

Owned by Michael Homan and sister-in- every stage. The milk is organic and heated law Shelagh, Ruby Dock is the duo’s third to 62 degrees, which extracts its natural outlet after the success of the acclaimed sweetness. They have fi ve different sizes Lantana, off Goodge Street, and hipster caff to suit varying tastes: the usual espresso, Salvation Jane in Shoreditch. macchiato and a new piccolo, “a smaller All three are named after weeds that now style latte”. A weekly changing guest blend grow in Australia but were fi rst transported showcases different roasters. This week it’s from other continents by immigrants. “It’s the fun-sounding Roasting Party. a metaphor for coffee cafés,” says Michael, So what’s the food like? A courgette, “which are thriving on foreign soil and goat’s cheese and rocket quiche was a little spreading the importance of a good blend to watery, wedged in between an overpowering Londoners.” oniony fattoush salad and more hearty feta, On our recent visit, east London-based chickpea and chorizo muddle. “We don’t Square Mile beans were picked out by coffee have a kitchen,” says Michael, “but we want maestro and manager Pete. “The current to be known for our food, and we’re working blend is 50% from one Guatamalan farm, on it.” 40% from another, and 10% Kenyan for the Fair enough. This is becoming a good spot, sweetness,” he explains, in an Aussie drawl, what with Honest Burger across the way too. “but we change it seasonally as the climate And the continued reinvention of Camden affects the bean’s taste.” Lock Market as a place to appeal to locals At £2.50, Ruby Dock’s latte is nutty, silky – not just swathes of cattle-like tourists – is “It’s named after a weed that and with not a single ounce of bitterness. encouraging. Even better, there’s a wine and “The milk brings out the roast’s creamy side,” cocktail list for a bit of night-time lounging. now grows in Australia but says Pete, “if you order it black, it would have a citrus taste at the front of the mouth.” Ruby Dock, 44-45 Camden Lock Place, was fi rst transported from Pete makes it clear that although the Camden Lock Market. Open for Breakfast, beans help, the sensational coffee is down lunch and dinner other continents” to Ruby Dock’s dedication to perfection at words & pic: Sarah Fox

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TOP 5 Gins by Colonel Fawcett’s Clare Nash

Gin Mare Aviation Gin Mare is produced in a small fi shing village in Spain using A small batch gin from Portland in Oregon. It is rich, fl oral and a few quite different botanicals – rosemary, thyme, olive and savoury; almost smoky. Contains unconventional botanicals basil – as well as traditional ingredients like juniper, orange such as lavender and Indian Sarsaparilla. Perfect for making the peel, lemon peel and cardamom seeds. You can really taste Aviation cocktail: 50mls Aviation Gin, squeeze in half a lemon, those savoury, herbal fl avours when drinking it neat. Here at 10mls Maraschino Liqueur and 10mls Crème de Violette, shake the Colonel we like to serve 50ml Gin Mare over ice in a balloon over ice, serve in a coupe glass with a twist of lemon. glass, topped with 1724 Tonic, garnished with a slice of orange and a sprig of rosemary. Find the Colonel Fawcett at 1 Randolph Street NW1 0SS Brockman’s A unique gin, defi nitely a favourite amongst the staff here. The botanicals that make it so different are blackberries and blueberries. An intensely smooth and easy drinking gin which makes a fantastic Gin Martini: 50ml Brockmans Gin, 10ml Noilly Pratt Dry Vermouth, shaken over ice, strained into a martini glass, garnish with a single blackberry. Citadelle Citadelle Gin is made from a 1771 recipe from France’s oldest registered gin distillery. It has 19 botanicals, more than any other. This makes it a very fl avoursome and complex drink. Smooth and almost sweet, it’s the perfect classic gin and tonic: we like to top with Fevertree Tonic and a twist of lime. Bloom Bloom is very light, delicate and fl oral. Slightly sweet, with honeysuckle, chamomile and pomelo. We like to add Fentiman’s Tonic Water and throw a few strawberries in the mix. But for the winter we pop in two slices of pink grapefruit.

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“ The meat undergoes up to 18 hours of slow cooking, meaning it’s a far cry from a dry BBQ bap”

ECENT visits to the Abbey have with a decent looking aubergine parmigiana on Pig out on the neighbourhood’s entailed either late night disco-dancing the menu too veggies won’t feel short changed Ror a beeline for the garden terrace, if here, despite the menu’s focus on fl esh. But most underrated streetfood conditions have been even vaguely clement. wouldn’t the sweet potato have made a better Therefore a weekday lunchtime, with the dish if not attempting to be a substitute burger kitchen, Phileas Hog at The sun streaming in through those attractively at all? oversized windows, was a bit of a revelation. Super-crisp onion rings and triple cooked We’d broken with form because it was high chips (both £3) were dangerously moreish Abbey Tavern time to check out the Phileas Hog kitchen as we sank a dry, sweet bottled Orchard Pig residency. Stepping comfortably into the shoes cider, a perfect foil for the trademark pulled of Farmer Tom – who put the Abbey on the map pork ciabatta. The rightly-acclaimed meat as a foodie, meat-focused destination – this local undergoes up to 18 hours of slow cooking, streetfood brand is actually a better fi t for a pub meaning it is a far cry from the dry BBQ bap with a young, party-startin’ kinda clientele. fi llings that are the comfortable cliché of the The promise is unfussy but quality burgers streetfood movement. and baps to accompany the decent range of Coleslaw and smoky sauce made this a drinks at the bar, all keenly priced and with sloppy affair, but all the better for it. All the nice touches like side dish poutine, the sloppy meat here comes from Harry’s Fine Foods, marriage of chips, cheese and gravy hailing where founders Ella and Jack set up shop after from Montreal. their early Brick Lane market sorties. So, paired with a delicious bottle of Camden There remains a real passion for provenance Brewery’s latest Versus series beer, a dark, and quality here, intentions that seem to have hoppy brew with an Italian accent, we ploughed been compromised at other outwardly similar into the proudly rare, aged Scottish chunk beef pub residencies. Chef Jack was keen to talk us at the dripping heart of the signature burger through details such as his efforts to source (£6.75). The patty was melt-in-the-mouth soft the perfect bun, and to show off the new and super juicy, with the classic bite of gherkin smoker out in the garden, where they are now and all-American sauce fl avours spot on. producing deeply fl avour-infused meat and A decent vegetarian burger is an elusive fi sh, deftly riding the barbecue zeitgeist. fi nd, so we were keen to sample the smoky The verdict? Way more than decent pub sweet potato-based Veggie Kray (£6.25). As grub, highlighting just how far the boozer meat-free versions go this was a success, and burger has come . 8/10 Tom Kihl FRESH PAN-ASIAN CHRISTMAS MENU EXPRESS LUNCH MENU

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something positive though. And who knows, the area’s much envied successful social mix may well have turned out differently had these places stood today, with their inevitable £1.5m price tags. But looking at shots of the lost Crescent, it’s hard not to mourn these planning decisions, among the final casualties of post-war attitudes; all “progress” rather than preservation. Sipping a latte at The Fields Beneath, or a beer at Camden Town Brewery today, you’d be forgiven for missing just how down at heel this part of London was less than a generation ago. These pictures reveal a world much changed but still, almost shockingly, recognisable as our own. the kentishtowner THE BIG PICTURE 11

Artist Sian Pattenden’s Kentishtowner Cultural Map has been a bestseller all year in our online shop, so we asked her to create a homage to the area’s most interesting strip.

RINCE of Wales Road, forming a neat divide between NW1 and P NW5, is the First Road of Kentish Town. Prone as I am to wandering around the local area, not exactly sure what I am doing or where I’m going half the time, I do know what I’m doing down Prince of Charming Road. I’m following Adam. Adam Ant. For the swashbuckling superhero of 80s punkerpop was arrested here for affray in 2002 in the Prince of Wales pub (now converted into luxury fl ats). The locals apparently didn’t like his cowboy get-up and he, naturally quite upset, returned with a pistol to cause a bit of a ruckus. The pub is now gone, and there may be artisan coffee and diver-caught, cloud- infused, hand-pulled briochettes for sale in the nearby coffee houses, but Prince of Wales Road always straddles the line between chaos and order, devilry and sainthood, dandy highwaymen and “the locals”. Along the road there is the most incredible architecture to see, from the Zabludowicz Collection in the neo-classical old Methodist church to the serious red facade of the public swimming baths. But as fi ne as the terraced houses may be, cheeky Malden Road cuts through the POW like a serrated knife through butter. The highwayman indeed. Likewise, the Denton estate leans over the terraced stucco houses in fi erce patriarchal style – an errant uncle smoking a massive roll up. The Fiddler’s Elbow taunts The Grafton, (surely it would try to fi ddler’s-elbow-it off the map if it were nearer.) Trendy child-men with beards and satchels sup ales in the Camden Brewery; but when there’s a scuffl e the models from Select on Ferdinand Street run away. Talacre sports centre provides an almost ghostly promise of “soft play”, plus a football pitch and £1.50 yoga - twelve people doing Tree while watching the fl ats being built for, rumour has it, the Chinese. Such exotica. And all the while, Adam looks on, still, contemplating theses meditative poses – before making a quick exit back to his eyrie, his cowboy chaps chafi ng against his North West legs. London is London is London, despite the staggering shit of the escalating house prices, KT is still a mix of people and cultures. Just. So I love Prince of Wales Road, for it is everything to everybody. It is the dandy highway that we’re not too scared to mention. Sian Pattenden 12 FREE WEEKEND the kentishtowner FREE WEEKEND? You’ve probably travelled its length on buses, in cars or on foot. But have you ever

ALKING from Kentish Town to my offi ce in , I used to cross WHolloway Road twice a day for a decade. All snarled-up traffi c, mardy cyclists and fumes, on the surface this unlovable stretch is at fi rst glance little more than the A1. Yet it’s also an ancient road north from the city, fi rst mentioned back in 1307. And while it’s perched in the valley between more sexy Tufnell Park and Highbury, and Highgate, it seems unfair that it remained unremarkable for so long. But things are fi nally changing now (while at the same time the road’s appearance is reassuringly familiar). There are new coffeehouses, vintage shops and pubs. So, on a lazy weekend morning, if you’ve strolled down Camden Road or through Tufnell Park, where best to start? Why, the Nag’s Head of course, the landmark at the junction of Holloway Road with Seven Sisters Road, where the architecturally impressive former pub still stands (now a Carphone Warehouse). Step behind, onto Bowman’s Mews, for your fi rst jolt of history – a plaque reminding us that “in Elizabethan times this was a favourite spot for archery contests”. Wow. And if it’s a Saturday, don’t miss the sprawling weekly outdoor car boot sale in the car park of Grafton Primary School on Eburne Road. Worm your way round its packed array of stalls, before crossing the road to the indoor daily market on Seven Sisters Road. This, readers, is the real deal. More Marrakech than Holloway, it’s a rowdy souk of fi fty micro shops Orion building top: and second hand stalls. Every morning a crush of left: Holloway Fisheries shoppers surrounds the butcher, greengrocer and opposite: The fi shmongers, their shelves crammed with coley, Swimmer, at the pollock and hake, as well as more exotic specimens ‘other’ Grafton like tilapia. Deep in the middle of the market, where a dimly- lit Colombian cafe is fi lled with punters, the smells of warming stews and roast chicken waft out. And bright colours are everywhere: at a fabric stall, a white-haired man cuts and rolls cloth methodically; at the weave shop, and at the various antique and bric a brac outlets. Back out on Holloway Road, take a deep breath and head south towards Highbury to gawp at another landmark, the futuristic Orion building, designed by Daniel Libeskind. A little piece of Bilbao in N7, it’s

Top 5 TO TRY IN HOLLOWAY

The Lamb café just off the main drag, 54 Holloway Road complete with farmhouse Excellent candle-lit arty “beer table, around which you can and liquor” boozer with lots munch a butternut squash of craft beers including the quiche or salade chevre. ubiquitous Camden Town Brewery, London Fields and Vivien of Holloway Meantime. 294 Holloway Road Ace vintage and thriftstore, Ooh La La a hub for arty locals and 147 Holloway Road students. Antiques parlour extraordinaire, as featured in Brewsters/ Vagabond ace Judi Dench fl ick Notes On Two excellent new artisan a Scandal. Buy a wobbly lamp, coffee shops. The former or vintage chair. (#102) is a cute hole-in-the- wall place with Redchurch Péché Mignon coffee; the latter (#105) is 6 Ronalds Road, N7 more Dalston yummy mummy, Tiny French “epicerie” and all bare wood and buggies. the kentishtowner FREE WEEKEND 13 EXPLORE HOLLOWAY ROAD stopped properly to explore? the main campus of the much-renamed railway station (at nos London Metropolitan University, and if 726–732) was the fi ctional setting for was anywhere else – say by the Thames, or George and Weedon Grossmith’s classic in Granary Square – it would be fi rmly on novel Diary of a Nobody (1892), which the tourist map. recorded the everyday life of a clerk. Brought the kids? Step behind Holloway And seventy years later, producer Joe Road into tiny Freightliners city farm, an Meek, the man behind 1960s global hit urban oasis dating back to the 1970s and Telstar by The Tornados, lived and worked now home to goats, rare breed pigs and at #304. His commercial success was short- lambs. Reach it through the churchyard of lived: in a fi t of depression in February St Mary Magdalene, one of the fi nest early 1967, he killed his landlady with a shotgun 19th century churches in London, situated – and then himself, commemorated now in pleasingly bucolic gardens. by a plaque above a grocer’s. Testament to And fi nally, for the culturally inclined, the extraordinary power of this ordinary don’t forget these two gems. Opposite road. Stephen Emms

Deep in the middle of the market, where a dimly-lit Colombian cafe is fi lled with Eating & Drinking

T’S a long road, of course, so the to the single room. Dishes are modern punters, the smells of food varies from world places like takes on French classics: try the chicken longstanding Georgian restaurant liver parfait or assiette of charcuterie, warming stews and ITbilisi to acclaimed Italian 500, up near including Noir de Bigorre and Bayonne Archway, recent winner of a Michelin ham. Bib Gourmand. El Molino is a very traditional roast chicken waft out. There’s one of the oldest Italian ca s tapas bar near the Seven Sisters Road in London, Trevi, opposite Highbury junction (379 Holloway Road). Inside its station; whilst for Asian fl avours try dark wood interior, the wall peppered the budget Korean restaurant Bu-San with photos of bullfi ghters, the fl oor opposite (a favourite of artists Gilbert tiled and worn, there are some good and George). value lunch deals, including a rustic In the last couple of years a natural selection of three tapas for £5.95: overfl ow from Upper Street has resulted padron peppers were chargrilled, in a more fashionable opening or two: with a pleasing hit of salt, baby squid, Piebury Corner is an attractive spot with tomatoes and garlic, was tender, o ering hipster pies in a distressed a chicken thigh dripping in garlic. A interior; La Muse, a French bistro with basket of soft baguette and butter courtyard garden and a two-course came free, and a glass of red £3.20. The lunch special at a tenner; and tiny sushi bill? £9. joint Roll Papa, crammed daily with Up for a pub crawl afterwards? Start students and locals. at historic boozer the Swimmer at the Just o the main drag Assiette Grafton Arms, then head to the Horatia, Anglaise (owned by Peche Mignon, a big sprawling student hangout, before see box) is an admirable stab at a stop-o at Filthys, a studenty live neighbourhood-meets-West End, its venue. Music fans should also check out central marble bar adding character the illustrious Garage or Nambucca. 14 the kentishtowner

TOP 10 November

1. GO STRESS-LESS XMAS SHOPPING AT CAMDEN LOCK MARKET This year, the Lock have established what they’re calling the People’s Republic of Christmas. From 25th November, the waterside area will host winter-warming cocktail bars, night markets and even a Disappearing Dining Club pop-up restaurant. This temporary Republic offers somewhere to get all the festive shopping done, far from the teeming Oxford Street hordes, and take a foodie break (or 2) while browsing. Sounds about as painless as Xmas shopping can ever be. 2. KENTISHTOWNER @ PANE VINO Our last event, Under the Overground, was a huge success in the summer. So on Thursday November 21 we invite you to come and taste the new menu of delicious stuzzichini (or sharing plates) at this K-Town institution. As it’s our “takeover”, we’ll be lighting and dressing the interior ourselves as well as coming up with a set menu (£12 for three stuzzichini), and chalking up drinks specials on the blackboard outside. Book a table? Email [email protected], 323 Kentish Town Rd 3. HAVE A COSY XMAS PUB GATHERING Now the weather has gone so goddamn cold, we can’t resist the fireside charm and cosy nooks of west KT’s most underrated boozer, Tapping the Admiral. If that’s the wrong side of town for you, there’s always sister pub The Pineapple over in the ‘eastside’. Both are corkers for boozy festive get together or two, whether it’s work or fun. 77 Castle Rd, NW1 4. PULL YOURSELF A HEALTHYTREAT 10 AT SAMBA SWIRL Brand new froyo merchants (that’s frozen yoghurt to the uninitiated) Samba Swirl have just opened up a branch at the heart of Camden Town. It’s all done in a self-serve stylie, meaning all the low fat flavours and slightly less virtuous toppings are laid out for you to create the bespoke frozen treat of your very wildest dreams. Or be less ostentatious and just go for a plain one. 5 Jamestown Rd, open until 10pm (11pm Fri & Sat) 5. GO BALLARO A quite swanky new Sicilian restaurant headed up by chef Carmelo Carnevale has opened in previously salt-of-the-earth Havestock Hill boozer the Havers (older readers will remember it was where Channel 4’s TFI Friday was once filmed). But want to try it out on the (relative) cheap? Do the £12.50 two course set menu, and expect starters like marinated steamed salmon and orange salad, or lentil soup and ribbon pasta; plus mains including stewed rabbit leg with celery, or mackerel filet in bread crust with pine nuts. 154 Haverstock Hill, NW3 7 6. VISIT KING’S CROSS SKIP GARDEN Ever taken a look at the moveable community garden planted by local kids, currently residing behind Central St Martins Granary Square building? 6 You’ll find repurposed skips bursting with fresh vegetables, which are then sold to neighbouring restaurants – including the canteen of The Guardian – and at on-site café The Hatch. It’s open Wed-Fri, 10am-3pm serving uber- healthy soups, salad boxes, drinks and cakes all from produce grown in the 9. PLAY WIFF WAFF AT THE GRAFTON 1 skip garden. The upstairs room at Prince of Wales Rd’s bustling community hub pub has many guises. And now Wednesday nights sees the place become dedicated 7. TAKE THE KIDS RAVING to wiff waff, a table tennis tournament running every week from the 6th Big Fish Little Fish is a party for rave generation mums ‘n’ dads to take of November until the 4th of December. Each entrant must pay a one-off their kids onto dancefloor, only unlike many baby discos, at this one the entry fee of £5, which grants them entry to each week. The winner of the music is actually good. After a series of buggy-roadblocked parties at the tournament will win the entire entry pot, plus a trophy and legendary Effra Social in Brixton, the BFLF crew are throwing their first bash in the status as the inaugural winner of this prestigious event. 20 Prince of north. Promoter Hannah had a notorious party flat in Camden in the 90s, Wales Rd but now she’s had kids and quit her job as Deputy Head of Policing at the Home Office, she’s busy inviting experimental electronica meistro Si Begg 10. GO KENTISH IN CLAPTON to headline her wildly popular, thoroughly next-generation event. 2-4pm, Out east? K-Town chef Oliver Rowe - who has cooked up a storm at Flaxon 24th Nov, The Dome, Junction Rd. Ptootch’s pop-up dinners, as well as opening Konstam at the Prince Albert Tickets: www.bigfishlittlefishevents.co.uk in King’s Cross – has been snapped up at newly refurbed Lower Clapton Road boozer the Windsor Castle. In fact, the mix of clientele, unpretentious 8. SINK A LATE NIGHT COCKTAIL AT PIZZA EAST interior and good food reminds us of The Grafton. Despite some populist Are you of the opinion that Pizza East is only a place to go and scoff the items (Scotch eggs, fried potatoes with mayo, crispy pork belly) the sharing wood-fired stuff? Fair enough, but once the madness of the evening rush plate menu is quite quirky and uncompromising: highlights include a very has subsided, it’s actually quite a chilled spot for a bespoke cocktail (or tender animal heart salad, cavolo nero with white beans, velvety blood- three) perched on stools around the solid wooden bar. In fact, the late red beetroot soup, seared pigeon breast with cabbage and bacon, and night experience is pleasingly West End but without the crush - or the explodingly soft quails’ eggs with mace salt. Prices £4.50 upwards per plate. schlep home. 79 Highgate Rd 135 Lower Clapton Rd, E5 8EQ