Food reviews: Polly BULL & GATE LUKE Vernon SILVERBERRY Essential HAINES on ARCHWAY, DELI KAMI SPITS WALKING and MUST DO OUT HIS HOT FEMINISM June ESPRESSO issue twenty-three june 2015 North London’s award-winning cultural guide kentishtowner.co.uk FREE

27 SECRET OUTDOOR HANGOUTS Where to chill this summer away from the hordes

O, THIS PICTURE whether for solace – or simply a sarnie. they’re hardly unknown, and so don’t tree in Montpelier? Surveyed the trains wasn’t snapped in But what determines whether a place make the cut. rumbling beneath Peace some Tuscan villa: is “secret” or not? Our special feature We’ve also eschewed invariably Garden? it’s a gorgeous shot of inside should enlighten even the most busy Regent’s Park and And why seek respite behind a low- one of north London’s longterm local with a fresh idea for in favour of the quieter corners of the key pizza joint on Junction Road? Hide Nmost scenic viewpoints, the pergola in those days when the sun shines. Heath – not to mention other, more in a beach hut off Parkway? Linger Hampstead. We’ve purposely avoided the obscure green spaces in the wider area. with the butterfl ies in a former coal Everyone who’s lived in the commonplace or the over-crowded. So And a host of cafes and , too. drop? Lounge in a suntrap on the lower neighbourhood for more than fi ve while we can’t resist Camden Beach, for Road? minutes will have their own private example, or the beer gardens at popular SO, HAVE YOU ever slipped away to The answers are inside. See p10 for list of such serene spots to escape to, pubs like The Stag or Junction Tavern, St Dominic’s Priory? Snoozed under a our guide to the Great Outdoors. organic + mineral hairdressing * colour specialists * INTRODUCING OUR NEW STYLIST 10% discount on wash cut and blowdries and ½ head + full head of highlights throughout June when booked with Helen.

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We exclusively use kentishtowner 3 MUST DO June

Founding editor Stephen Emms 3 1. A CIVILISED GARDEN BASH We enjoyed a leisurely wander through the Grow Co-editor London festival last summer. And it’ s returning to Tom Kihl again later this month with a ton of ideas on how to transform your outside space, Designer whether that’s a window ledge or, erm, small country Olly Skinner park. Exhibitors offer up delights like contemporary Logo and classic garden furniture, hard-to-fi nd plants and Russell Loughlan fl owers from some of the country’s fi nest nurseries, plus there are sculptures, pots, planters, accessories and Contributors tools. June 18th-21st, East Heath Road NW3 www. Luke Haines growlondon.com Polly Vernon Andy Stewart 2. NEW BOOZER FROM THE GRAFTON Kentish Town’s major new fi nally opens this Distribution month just off Queen’s Crescent. Formerly the Bluebell, Man Friday (manfriday.london) which closed back in October, the reworked black- and-burgundy painted boozer has been bought by the Published by award-winning team behind The Grafton, so it should London Belongs To Me be a corker. Expect everything from counter eating to Ltd 2014 a wood-fi red pizza oven, daily specials, and more than www.londonbelongstome.com a few surprises in the lovely garden (see pages 10-12). Opens mid-June, 166 Malden Road NW5 Send us nice things: The Old House, 3. BUY CHEAP ART (KIND OF) 39-41 North Road The Affordable Art Fair on the Heath often proves a London N7 9DP mixed bag of talent, but it’s always fun to roam, the people-watching arguably as entertaining as the To get in touch, please email us at [email protected] masterpieces themselves. This year pore over 100 galleries and an eye-watering 1,100 artists all under one Are you a business who wants roof in the usual variety of styles and mediums. Better to reach thousands of locals? still, sip on a glass of something chilled as you explore. To advertise please call: June 11th-14th, East Heath Road NW3

Amelia Cunningham 4. SUPPORT A BOMB FACTORY 020 3004 7207 or email A studio complex housing 22 artists has just opened amelia_cunningham@ in an old munitions factory in Archway, by the main themediasaleshouse.co.uk roundabout at the top of Holloway Road. Called Bomb Factory, it was once an important hub of armaments BACK ISSUES 1 production in WW2; in fact, the surrounding area was shop.kentishtowner.co.uk 4 bombed heavily to destroy it. Many of the artists will be running courses to interact with the local community: there’ll be life drawing, fi lm nights, framing courses 5 and artists’ talks, including Mark Wallinger. The Bomb Factory, Boothby Road, Archway N19 5. CATCH SPECTOR AT THE DOME This fourpiece peddle some of the wittiest pop around at the moment, and their new single, Bad Boyfriend, has taken up something of a permanent fi xture on the offi ce stereo. Just after its release on June 8th this London- based act play at ’s Dome a few days later on June 11th. It’s near sold out so you’d better move pretty darn quick; next stop, we reckon, must be The Forum. More info: www.spector.co.uk 6. GO BURRITO Most readers will have seen Wahaca’s dazzling dayglo pink frontage by now, and the quirky Old T-Shirt Factory sign swaying in the breeze. Look out for the hip chain fl inging their doors open in Kentish Town towards the end of this month, with a ‘to-go’ burrito bar downstairs and restaurant upstairs. Hell, they’ve even Food reviews: Polly BULL & GATE LUKE Vernon SILVERBERRY Essential HAINES on ARCHWAY, DELI KAMI SPITS WALKING and MUST DO OUT HIS HIS ISSUE we cross our fi ngers (the other half of Sian Pattenden, who rebranded the adjoining Fruit Bowl in their distinctive HOT FEMINISM June ESPRESSO issue twenty-three june 2015 North London’s award-winning cultural guide kentishtowner.co.uk FREE for a bit of warmth and take a peek created our Kentishtowner Cultural font. Kentish Town station NW5 Toutside. You can be assured it’ll be Maps), it’s worth reading his witty rant raining all month then – but let’s hope the against the rise of the speciality coffee 7. LISTEN QUIETLY 27 sun shines at least for one balmy weekend shop (p14). A true neighbourhood gem is the longstanding Torriano afternoon. Meeting House, which always has an ace line-up of SECRET DID YOU KNOW too that we are talks and evenings each Sunday from poets and authors. OUTDOOR HANGOUTS Elsewhere, we speak to columnist Polly constantly looking for great new people This month expect Mario Petrucci and Helen Calcutt Where to chill this summer Vernon about where she likes to hang and businesses to work with, from talented (June 7th), RA Villanueva, Rishi Dastidar & Cat Brogan, away from the hordes

O, THIS PICTURE whether for solace – or simply a sarnie. they’re hardly unknown, and so don’t tree in Montpelier? Surveyed the trains out, and shine the spotlight on Japanese new photographers to interesting folk to introduced by Jill Abram (June 14th),and Daphne wasn’t snapped in But what determines whether a place make the cut. rumbling beneath Hampstead Peace some Tuscan villa, is “secret” or not? Our special feature We’ve also eschewed invariably Garden? it’s a gorgeous shot of inside should enlighten even the most busy Regent’s Park and Primrose Hill And why seek respite behind a low- one of north London’s longterm local with a fresh idea for in favour of the quieter corners of the key pizza joint on Junction Road? Hide Nmost scenic viewpoints, the pergola in those days when the sun shines. Heath – not to mention other, more in a beach hut off Parkway? Linger with Hampstead. We’ve purposely avoided the obscure green spaces in the wider area. the butterfl ies in a former coal drop? Or Gloag and Carol De Vaughn (June 21st). Everyone who’s lived in the commonplace or the over-crowded. So And a host of cafes and pubs, too. lounge in a suntrap on the lower Kentish restaurant Kami. We also examine what’s profi le. If you’re a creative type and want Starts 7.30pm neighbourhood for more than fi ve while we can’t resist Camden Beach, for Town Road? minutes will have their own private example, or the beer gardens at popular SO, HAVE YOU ever slipped away to The answers are inside. See p10 for list of such serene spots to escape to, pubs like The Stag or Junction Tavern, St Dominic’s Priory? Snoozed under a our guide to the Great Outdoors. on offer at South End Green’s Silverberry to get involved in what we do, email us: every Sunday. 99 Torriano Avenue, Kentish Town, Kitchen, and hot new arrival the Bull & [email protected] NW5 Gate (p6-9). Till next month, cover photo by Andy Stewart If you’re a fan of musician Luke Haines (www.manfriday.london) 4 kentishtowner

POLLY VERNON JOURNALIST AND AUTHOR

A features writer and columnist for 19 years, Polly has written for When were you happiest? Pure giddy excitement everything from the Guardian to the Telegraph and Vogue (currently happiness: probably the time I learned I’d got my fi rst splitting her time between The Times and Grazia). She lives in job in journalism, on a magazine called Minx in the late Ich Archway with her boyfriend, whom she is gently pressuring toward nineties. An amazing phone call to receive. But I get a bit the idea of acquiring a dog. Her fi rst book, Hot Feminist is out now, of happy every day. I walk everywhere, and tooling round published by Hodder & Stoughton. north London in my trainers always gives me something very nice. Bin Where would you like to live? Archway, obviously and usefully, because I do. Or the West Village, New York.

What is your favourite sound or smell? Taylor Swift, wood pigeons; bacon and Tom Ford Black Orchid.

What is your greatest life achievement? Making London work for me. I’m from Devon originally, and when you fi rst get to London, it’s such a struggle to survive it fi nancially. But I wanted it so badly, and found a way. I still feel lucky to be here.

What is the most important lesson life has taught you? That I’m alright, underneath it all. And so are most other people, really.

What is your earliest memory? Hanging out with my ginger cat Billy, aged about four.

What makes you unhappy? I can get pretty anxious about life. But I’m working on that.

What simple thing would improve your quality of life? More bloody awareness of pedestrians in London. There’s a lot of focus on cyclists, which is right, but people are walking here, too.

What is your most unappealing habit? I’m perfect.

What is your guilty pleasure? I don’t believe in them. I think you should just straight up like stuff, without the ‘I know it’s not really cool, but...’ caveat. I’m a massive fan of Made In Chelsea, but I feel no guilt or shame about that.

Where do you hang out? Bread and Bean in Archway. Or its sister caff, The Spoke. Amazing coffee and the staff are darlings. Copita in Soho for the tapas. My front room for everything else.

Who or what do you hate and why? Carelessness and judgement aren’t terribly sexy.

Best or worst experience? Interviewing Joe Hart was one of the worst professional experiences for sure, though it led to a hilarious interview.

What do you most dislike about your appearance? I talk about the way women think and feel about their looks in the book a lot. I consider myself a collection of disparate parts which I fi nd generally pleasing, mood dependent.

What’s the worst thing anyone’s said to you? People say awful things online all the time, but I’m toughening up about that. ‘I don’t love you’ is always a tough one.

Tell us a secret. I lie about how many times I retook my driving test. I say it was twice, but it was three times before I passed.

What has your career taught you? People are never, ever who you think they are from a distance.

What is your favourite dish and why? “PEOPLE SAY AWFUL THINGS I do an excellent fi sh fi nger sandwich - but that’s all I do. What are you working on right now? The journalism day job, and a couple of TV shows which ONLINE ALL THE TIME, BUT I’M will probably never happen. Describe yourself as an animal. Right now? A tired horse who is just about remembering TOUGHENING UP ABOUT THAT.” to keep its head up and its mane fl ying. Who or what do you love? My bloke. My friends. London. Ed Atkins Isa Genzken Maria Lassnig Pamela Rosenkranz Laura Buckley, Samara Golden Mark Leckey Wolfgang Tillmans Haroon Mirza & Guyton\Walker Sarah Lucas Keith Tyson Dave Maclean Rachel Harrison Josephine Meckseper Julia Wachtel Martin Creed Damien Hirst Albert Oehlen Gillian Wearing Alexandre da Cunha Andy Holden Heather Phillipson Rachel Whiteread Dexter Dalwood Jim Lambie Sigmar Polke Christopher Wool Tracey Emin Michael Landy Elizabeth Price ZABLUDOWICZ COLLECTION 20 YEARS 30 APRIL–16 AUGUST

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above: the trio of duck starter above right (clockwise): smoked octopus, the BULL & GATE Review dining room, the upstairs What’s on o er at the revamped Kentish Town pub’s dining room then? Boulogne Bar

LTHOUGH IT OPENED back in April, it’s taken emphasis on cheap, fashionable cuts like shoulder and pork presentation and layers of taste: a swish of shallot puree is this long to publish a review because, for a while, cheek. topped with smoked breast, rillettes and a croquette. There Awe simply couldn’t get a table. On each attempt – But have the owners hired a chef who knows what he’s are hits of coriander, fennel and cumin, and something admittedly weekend evenings – the restaurant was full. The doing? Well, the lucky bugger is one Luca Mattia, from you might call “skin crumble”. Scything through it all are staff are always polite, but it seems walk-ins are not entirely Naples, with sixteen years’ experience in both Michelin- pickled beetroots and black cherries stewed in kirsch. It’s a encouraged; there’s the accompanying pub for a casual starred restaurants like Zafferano in Knightsbridge (when bit of a “wow” moment. meal, of course. But we were nonetheless keen to try the it was under the helm of Giorgio Locatelli), as well as the Portion sizing is good, by the way; no need to struggle grown-up menu. Soho House group. through outsize plates here. So, aided by the house red – a With our policy of paying for meals, reviewing light Carignan (£17) – we devour an assortment of mains. anonymously and not pre-booking, we instead decide to WITHOUT ruining the surprise, it turns out we are in A smoked lamb shoulder shepherd’s pie arrives just too pop by on a Tuesday night, unannounced and without being safe hands. On this visit, three of us share some starters, piping hot to gobble for several agonizing minutes. Yet spotted by the manager. Result: we slip quietly in. refreshingly not called ‘small plates’ here. once it’s cooled, it yields the hoped-for meaty depth of Arriving at 7pm, the room is almost fully booked for First, let’s dispense with the least impressive: a rare fl avour, lacking only in the billed burnt leek. An abundance the evening, but a table is available near the open kitchen: fi llet of beef is a little too cold, but its on-trend raw salad of mash is less creamy and under-seasoned than expected, not too bad on a fairly temperate evening, but potentially of thinly sliced pickled carrot and beetroot works nicely. but compensating is a pile of purple-sprouting broccoli, sweltering on a balmy one. Better is smoked octopus (top right), piled on ribbons of moreishly chargrilled. Seated, we look around: the vibe is industrial warehouse courgette and basil puree, sweetened further with the most Black Angus sirloin is served correctly medium-rare, meets faded grandeur: polished concrete fl oor, pillared wonderfully creamy almond butter. with a creamy béarnaise that’s easy on the tarragon, but plinths and brass chandeliers. It’s very “now”. And the Even better still? A trio of duck (see above main the chips are less fries, more wedges, thick-cut and a little crowd? A Soho-style mix of older diners, besuited middle- pic), which screams “technique” in both its attractive soggy. We also enjoy the sticky-sweet roasted halves of aged males, twentysomething couples and chattering tables of post-work creatives from nearby Studios.

THE MENU reads beautifully. We’ve eaten at pubs owned by Young’s across north London, and while the food has, in some cases, been notable, it can often fall into rather basic gastropub territory. But with this latest venture, it seems they have their eyes on a similarly named bovine boozer up the road. The “A trio of duck is a dish evidence? Ingredients like celeriac, bone marrow and kohlrabi; lots of smoked meats and fi sh, but not the more traditional salmon (that’s treacle-cured, silly); and an that screams technique” kentishtowner 7

Kami It might be easy to miss, but this is the go-to place for top Japanese food

OR THOSE unfamiliar with the brilliant animé fi lms by Hayao Miyazaki and the sublime Spirited Away, Kami are Fspirits or phenomena worshipped in the religion of Shinto, elements of nature, animals, and creative forces in the universe. banana shallots, but overall it’s not quite up there Kenneth Kim is a sushi chef with a perfectionist streak who has with the steaks at either Patron, over the road, or learnt his trade at Sushi Samba in the Heron Tower, Tsukiji Sushi, the more pricey Bull & Last. The Westbury Hotel, and Ozu Zen Cuisine on the South Bank. His BEST OF ALL? Firm, sweet, white hake (see presence on Fortess Road is yet another sign of Kentish Town’s pic, right) with a crust of seasonal wild garlic, foodie upsurge. perched on braised little gems in a clear savoury We ordered a takeaway fi rst. The food arrived swiftly, beautifully broth. Light, clean and packed with spring-like packaged and neatly presented. The one cloud, on what was an touches – including peas and shallots – this is the NOTES & OBSERVATIONS otherwise perfect supper for four (£33.20) was that the miso soup dish to return for. had leaked over the nasu dengaku (aubergine in sweet miso). Soup is Which is what we do a few days later, just to not an easy thing to deliver, hot and in one container. check that the hake really is as accomplished as • Nice use of zeitgeisty ingredients. Let’s all that. And yes, again it shines just as brightly hope the menu remains consistent in quality AND WHILE it was delicious (we are quite fussy, I should add), (although, if we’re to be pedants, the shallots are it was a great shame the majority of it ended up at the bottom of more astringent). • Service can veer into over-zealous territory, the bag. Meanwhile my kids tucked in to the chicken and vegetable This time we also try broad beans, ricotta and but that’s natural for a new restaurant, right? gyoza, maki rolls and salmon teriyaki, all carefully prepared. I opted heritage tomatoes on sourdough: it’s a fi lling for the chirashi zushi: good, but I missed the presence of diced fi sh starter, with a pleasing hit of lovage, but served too • We hope they hold some tables back for as served by other Japanese chefs. fridge-cold. walk-ins as it’s still a local joint Our second experience was to eat in at the restaurant a few Unlike on our previous visit, we have some days later. We were pleased to see a steady stream of orders being room for dessert, but as the rosemary focaccia • The Sunday roasts have proved a hit with exquisitely dispatched. This time round we tried the meltingly soft bread and butter pudding is sold out, we settle for readers too, at least according to social media yasai tempura, while the kids slurped happily at the chicken soba. a decent (if a tad more perfunctory) salted dark More spectacular still was a dragon roll – fi lled with prawn chocolate torte. tempura, eel, avocado, cucumber, spring onion and tobiko – which So, the verdict? This should make for a very fi ne Kentishtowner rating looks like art and is prepared with craft and care. restaurant – rather than gastropub – once the team Food 7.5/10 Atmosphere 7/10 A downside? It’s a shame that the restaurant lacks atmosphere, are well and truly in their stride. And if the upscale Value for money 7/10 but the food more than makes up for it. Kelly Hill menu is a little too much for some palates, the main bar itself provides a more straightforward 389 Kentish Town Road, London NW5 Kami, 8 Fortess Road NW5. Open daily. burger-and-chips option, especially for those Expect to pay £30+ a head. Our meal for three Sushi starts at around £3 a pop, with the cheapest set £12 upwards. about to catch a band at The Forum next door. people including starters, mains and two bottles Photo: Kelly Hill Stephen Emms of wine came to £124.53 including 12.5% service

kentishtowner 9 FOOD

SILVERBERRY Deli and Kitchen Is it shaking up South End Green’s food scene? Not quite. But it’s a tasty newbie nonetheless

THINK IT’S FAIR TO SAY that not to add a layer of – what? – humour? freekah, the hip Middle Eastern grain. much really changes in South End “Sea Sound”, for example, is smoked IGreen, aka the bus terminus at the salmon, scrambled eggs and sourdough. Most memorable was a humble dusty foot of the Heath. “Eggvocado” is...well, you guessed it. chicken thigh burger: the meat juicy That’s not to say it isn’t crazy-busy: and chargrilled, it was sandwiched with one of London’s leading hospitals, the It was lunchtime, anyway, so our robust slivers of smoked peppers in a Royal Free, pretty much sees to that. minds were fi rmly fi xed on mains, all sturdy brioche bun. It would have been But the selection of mid-market cafes – bearing more sensible monikers. With a nigh fl awless, but the accompanying Euphorium, Hampstead Tea Rooms, Le cautious fi ve year old in tow, we chose chips were thick-cut – and declared Pain Quotidian – is rather uninspiring. a selection of dishes we could all share. unexciting by the demanding youngest Imposing corner pub the White Horse Salmon baked in tangy, lemony sumac member of the party. has tried – and failed – to do its own take (main pic above) was exactly as it should NOTES & OBSERVATIONS on “small plates”, the Magdala is closed be, livened up by a lick of aioli, roasted FINISHING with a strong own-brand for a refurb, and the Garden Gate settles new potatoes and some quite outsize (but Silverberry Blue Mountain espresso for unpretentious pub grub (albeit in a perfectly cooked) fl orets of broccoli. – does everyone have their own beans • Silverberry is not canine-friendly inside, lovely setting). Meanwhile, Fratelli La now? – we agreed the deli is a pleasant which is a shame as most dog owners would Bufala – now rebranded but under the A substanial trio of Ottolengi-style enough option if you’ve just attempted agree there’s a genuine gap in the market for same ownership – dishes up reliable but salads – decent value at £8.50 – exuded a the mild slopes of Parliament Hill. such a cafe right next to the Heath pricey pizzas; other safe eating options contrast of textures and fl avours: melt-in- More exciting are plans for an evening include longstanding Turkish joint Zara, the-mouth roasted squash and chickpea, service, and as the place is fully licensed, • Service is friendly enough. They are trying Indian restaurant Paradise, and the slow-roasted beetroot with fennel, the idea of a sundowner on the terrace to win over locals, understandably, although newish Little Thai on Fleet Road. radishes and dates; and best of all, honey- is tempting as the weather heats up. table service would be nice, too. glazed carrots with cumin, feta and Stephen Emms ENTER SILVERBERRY, defi nitely with • The shop section sells co ee, jars of sauces, its mind set on “shaking things up” in this posh chocolate and the ilk leafy corner of NW3. The decor is tasteful in a modern but uncharacterful way – • We didn’t try the pastries or cakes, but neutral colours, sharing tables, bare bulbs many are gluten-free: try orange, almond and and mosaic tiling – and the simple idea is polenta, or a moist banana, for example. to serve healthy produce. “Salmon baked in The real draw, however? The good- sized outdoor terrace. In fact, no other cafe in the immediate vicinity has such a tangy, lemony sumac Kentishtowner rating spacious pavement to lounge and watch Food 7/10 Atmosphere 6/10 the hustle and bustle. was livened up by a Value for money 8/10 Interesting brunch options have really 14-16 Pond Street, London NW3 2PN taken over the capital in recent years. lick of aioli” We paid £35.40 for three mains, a portion of And here’s no exception: the menu is sourdough (£2) and three soft drinks (£1.50-£2). heavy on breakfasty items with names 10 kentishtowner

27 SECRET OUTDOOR SPOTS IN NORTH LONDON

above (and In which we attempt to reveal unexpected clockwise over next page):the Beach Hut alfresco hangouts across the neighbourhood, at the York & Albany, Backyard Cinema from lesser known parks and green spaces to at Camden Market, Mosaic, Caledonian cafes, pub gardens and outdoor summer pop-ups Park, JW3’s summer beach

words: Stephen CORKS AND FORKS Emms A glass of wine out front watching the CAMDEN ARTS CENTRE ebb and fl ow of Swain’s Lane is always a A very solid walk up Haverstock Hill pleasure, but in warmer months, the back and west (a bit) is this slightly misnamed garden, with its creperie and BBQs, can place for world-class contemporary art feel like the hidden courtyard deep inside exhibitions and education. But did you a Moroccan medina. It’s just the kind of know about its lovely garden? There are place you’d love to discover on holiday, tables and chairs to dine on food from with a laidback food and drink offering the café, and a lush green space in which perfect for work-free days. to picnic, read and observe the wildlife. 9-11 Swain’s Lane, London N6 Camden Arts Centre, Arkwright Road, NW3 BELSIZE WOOD YORK & ALBANY’S BEACH HUT Adjacent to the modernist Isokon building The sunny coast of Cornwall is the theme is this deeply shaded local nature reserve. for the former coaching inn’s courtyard owners of the Fawcett tarted up the failing Opened back in the 1980s, it’s a steeply summer pop-up. Pull up a deckchair or JW3’S SUMMER BEACH boozer a few years ago now, building up sloping site divided into a northern half, chill on the sand surrounding the candy- From Sunday 5 July the JW3 piazza will a careful reputation for seasonal food. always open, and a southern part that’s coloured striped hut. On the menu? Why, be transformed into a summer beach, But lesser known is the lovely oasis out open only at weekends. Expect ash and rum slushies, mini fi sh ‘n’ chips, a beach 150 metres square with 35 tons of “self- the back, with herbs, exotic plantings and sycamore trees, and lots of birds singing BBQ and bucket and spades. Don’t forget cleaning” sand. Expect seasonal treats, covered booths. 1 Randolph Street NW1 their hearts out. And did you know a the shades. 127-129 Parkway NW1 cocktails, deckchairs, games, music and railway tunnel runs underneath, built an in-built water feature to splash about HAMPSTEAD PERGOLA back in the 1860s? HAMPSTEAD PEACE GARDEN in. Permanent restaurant and bar Zest will Like a spot of faded grandeur? Course Adjoining the newly rebuilt Hampstead be on hand to serve special dishes from a you do. On the far western reaches of ELM VILLAGE ECO PARK Heath overground station is a former beach hut and grill: fi sh burgers, harissa, the Heath, just before it melts away into Urban Growth is a charity which supports wasteland, bought a few years ago by corn on the cob with spicy nuts, and non- Golder’s Hill Park (see below), you’ll adults with mental health problems, and local traders, residents and visitors, alcoholic limonanas too. 341-351 Finchley encounter this gorgeous spot, as featured their scenic allotment and garden in this who happily volunteered to transform it Road, London NW3 6ET on our cover, with its raised walkway, unknown corner of NW1 really is well into a woodland glade. Explore timber overgrown with vines and exotic fl owers. worth a detour. There’s an orchard, herb steps, informal seating, small ponds and COLONEL FAWCETT Its history goes back to 1904 when Lord garden and rows of veg, from bulbous a wishing-well feature with climbers, Randolph Street is one of Camden’s more Leverhulme, a wealthy philanthropist and spring onions to lettuces and strawberries. magnolias and interesting pathways. And industrial thoroughfares, with its railway lover of landscape gardening, purchased a They also supply Kentish Town’s Veg Box it’s perfect to watch the ‘busyness’ of the bridge, sprawling tyre shop and peeling large town house on the Heath as a setting scheme, as well as various pubs. station from above. Victorian terraces. The thirtysomething for extravagant Edwardian garden parties. kentishtowner 11

GIPSY QUEEN ARANCINI BROTHERS Malden Road’s big new opening (see p.3) A couple of years ago the owners of the is set to house a very lovely leafy courtyard hit local café cleaned up the backyard, in which to kick back with a spritz. “We’re whipped out the astroturf, and constructed hoping to bring a little Cuban fl avour to more of that thriftily utilitarian (if slightly the garden with lots of bright colours,” strange) plywood furniture. There’s the says owner Susie Clarke. “Expect festoon odd tree and a pungent bed of herbs or “The sensational lights strung back and forth, fi xed booths two, and the estate looming behind the and covered areas. Its length is canopied branches. It’s juxtaposition, in the true by gorgeous cherry trees, from which we’ll Kentish Town way, and it works, a balmy Mediterranean haven hang lots of twinkly lights, and there are place to enjoy their 100% arabica beaned plenty of sun-soaked spots as well for the expresso. 115a Kentish Town Road NW1 is complete with palm sun seekers.” Wow. 166 Malden Rd, NW5 THE TREEHOUSE AT THE ABBEY BINTANG Hemmed in by tall buildings, and east- trees, tropical plants This longstanding lower Kentish Town facing so mostly shaded, the Abbey Road pan-Asian joint is candle-lit and nonetheless boasts the biggest beer garden and bamboo” cosy during the winter months, but in central K-Town. But if it rains, why not there’s a totally different atmosphere clamber up the rickety wooden steps to in the spacious backyard once the sun’s the treehouse? After dark (yes, that means out. Graffi tied walls, sharing tables, a 930pm right now), not only is it magical After Leverhulme’s death the Pergola went BACKYARD CINEMA covered area and proper party vibe are the but there’s lively people-watching too: into a slow decline, and it’s this that lends From the 29th July for six weeks every backdrop to the good-value sharing plates teens, students and funkateers. it such a haunting atmosphere… Wednesday, Thursday and Friday evenings and BYO booze action. Try the wasabi 124 Kentish Town Road NW1 Camden Market are teaming up with prawn tempura, piled high with cod roe. WATER GARDEN, GOLDER’S HILL PARK independent outdoor fi lm company Yum. 93 Kentish Town Road NW1 THE HILL …further west, with views over suburban Backyard Cinema to host an innovative The fairly steep ascent to northwest London is this grassy expanse, fi lm festival featuring two screens. Honest is what has been termed Steele’s Village the former site of a large house bombed Burgers will be serving up their signature by residents for a while now. You could, during World War II. Head straight – via patties throughout the season. This one’s if you wish, consider it the “posh bit” of the quirky animal enclosures, which for locals and Londoners. west Kentish Town. And by far the nicest include donkeys, lemurs and maras – to More details camdenmarket.com garden to lounge about in is this smart the beautifully tended fl ower garden. pub’s outside bits. Close your eyes and you There’s a duck pond with a small hump- RESTAURANT MICHAEL NADRA could almost be in the country. Almost. back bridge, and a separate water garden, After you pass the quirky Pirate Castle Steeles Studios, Haverstock Hill NW3 which leads onto a larger pond, home to on the Regent’s Canal, and just before the both black and white swans. dreamy houses of St Mark’s Crescent – CAMLEY STREET NATURAL PARK whose lawns dangle onto the water, willow Back in 1981, this former coal drop was MOSAIC, ARCHWAY trees rustling in the breeze – take a right saved from being turned into a lorry park A staple since the late 90s, this tube-side up the alleyway that leads to Gloucester by local campaigners. An amazing variety spot offers simple pizzas and pastas in Road. Here you’ll stumble across a half- of landscapes and creatures exist across a spacious interior; a decent spot for an hidden Grade II-listed horse tunnel wetlands, meadow and woodland. No unfussy lunch or low-key dinner. But the beneath swanky new apartments. it’s such an educational hotspot star attraction is outside: a sensational upscale restaurant is Michael Nadra, with for local kids. Don’t miss the newish Mediterranean haven, complete with palm bargains to be had if you eat off-peak. And architect-designed Viewpoint, a fl oating trees, bamboo and tropical plants, which the peaceful terrace is the real winner, a platform on its eastern tip commissioned has seating, both covered and exposed as true waterside idyll. 42 Gloucester Avenue, by the Finnish Institute in London. 12 the weather determines. 24 Junction Road NW1 Camley Street N1C N19 12 kentishtowner

CALEDONIAN PARK gardens that have been restored in recent Caledonian Park – and its majestic tower – years. Nearby is Freightliners City Farm, is one of north London’s most atmospheric an urban oasis dating back to the 1970s and “Just past the ponds, and underrated spots. Once a pleasure now home to goats, rare breed pigs and resort and tea garden called Copenhagen lambs. Holloway Road, London N7 House, in 1855 the site was redeveloped as sheep graze in (almost) the Metropolitan Cattle Market. Slaughter HIDDEN GARDEN ART SHOW houses were close by, and the whole site Every weekend in June, the Maureen pre-lapsarian bliss was enclosed by railings, the columns of Michaelson gallery on Belsize Lane will which were topped with cast iron heads of fl ing its doors open to host works by several the animals traded. At each corner, rowdy major artists over two venues. They’ll also under the railway market pubs provided accommodation be exhibiting at the second Grow London and entertainment for folk visiting: The garden festival too (see p3), which runs 19- Lion, The Lamb, The White Horse and The 21 June. 17 Belsize Lane NW3 arches” Black Bull. Today, three of the four remain (as posh fl ats) and, with the clock tower, MONTPELIER GARDENS are listed structures. Caledonian Park Originally the grounds for Montpelier was structured in 1970 and planted with House, this small leisure space opened woodland. There’s currently a battle with to the public in 1976 after local residents council to “save” the park from an campaigned to save the adjoining Regency unsightly new café and community space. house from demolition. Once boasting “grand views” over to Islington, it was ST DOMINIC’S PRIORY then variously a rest centre, old people’s The fi rst building in this three-acre oasis home and fl ats. Now the house is, of was completed back in 1867, just six years course, Montpelier nursery, a beautiful eco after a Cardinal Wiseman invited the building. O Montpelier Grove NW5 Dominicans to establish a major Roman Catholic Centre on the land. And even in KENTISH TOWN CITY FARM’S SHEEP 2015, this peaceful quadrangle is owned by ENCLOSURES the Dominican community who still live NW5’s famous animal haven needs no here. The adjoining church is a massive introduction, of course, its picturesque 299 ft long, 80 ft high, with fourteen side urban railway lands being a popular chapels, all of which make it one of the weekend jaunt for many locals. But the capital’s biggest God joints. In fact, its most tranquil spot – arguably – is its south- size was so controversial that upon its eastern tip, just pass the ponds, where completion there were moans in the House sheep graze in (almost) pre-lapsarian bliss of Commons that “the Papists had erected under railway arches not yet given over to a dangerous building”. Southampton Road coffee shops or micro-breweries. 1 Cressfi eld the NW5 Close NW5 Main pic: Hampstead Pergola THE NEW BIT OF TALACRE GARDENS ATHLONE HOUSE GROUNDS above: A few weeks ago, the western perimeter With views of one of London’s fi nest the fl oating of Kentish Town’s underrated park was Victorian piles (currently holding out platform at expanded on to previously unused ground against its proposed redevelopment) this Camley Street on Talacre Road. The result? More trees blissful north-eastern corner of the Heath Park, left: and paths are now included, its effect is a far cry from the weekend madness of St Dominic’s surprisingly bucolic. Once the park gets a the Ponds, or busy . Relax Priory much-needed ‘dogs-on-leads’ policy, it will on the secluded lawn area, or admire the well and truly be the calm space it should rhododendrons. You never know: you may be. Prince of Wales Road NW5 even have it to yourself. THE CHURCHYARD OF ST MARY MAGDALENE Head south-east from Kentish Town towards and you’ll pass by one of the fi nest early 19th century churches in London, situated in pleasingly shady

14 OPINION kentishtowner

Right: Luke Haines drawn by “PROPER COFFEE Sian Pattenden. IS OF COURSE A LIFESTYLE ‘CHOICE’ FOR MEN WITH UNPROVABLE STUFF TO PROVE.” LOCAL MUSICIAN LUKE HAINES IS STRUGGLING WITH OUR NATIONAL OBSESSION WITH THE DARK STUFF

S I SIT POUNDING KEYS FURIOUSLY, yet we sit freezing outside windswept eateries, sipping ‘Down with freedom and long live chains’. Yes please! like Pol Pot held at gunpoint by Hunter S tiny egg cups of bitter black migraine-inducing treacle, The concept of choice has always proved tricky with Thompson, I am fuelled by strong juices: frothing beakers of milky wilky infantilism called ‘lartays.’ our island race. As a child of the ‘70s whose parents had pump potions. No, not amphetamines All the while our Northern European ice cold blood lived through rationing in the ‘40s and ‘50s, I feel more (otherwiseA this column would be measured in volumes craving a proper hit: a single malt, a large glass of vino at home with necessity than luxury: why make bread if rather than word length). Not even hard liquor, bud. Uh collapso, or better still a cuppa. Preferably from a tea urn: you can buy it, why eat mushrooms when you don’t have huh, I am writing this baby, righteously juiced on ‘Coop scaldingly hot, in a mug. Or better still a plastic cup. Two to? Eat more rabbit. And why nance around with fi lters, Oil’: Mellow Birds. When God invented Mellow Birds he bags left in please (never leaves). And you know what percolators and specimen jars when you can be living the was playing hardball. you can do with your Twinings Everyday... I take my tea instant coffee dream in an, er, instant? drinking very, very, seriously. The United Kingdom has a long history of fables and I HAVE A BLAKEAN VISION of a cafe with my name enables, wins ‘n spins. That we are currently in the midst ‘Proper’ coffee is of course a lifestyle ‘choice’ mainly above it. Inside there will be a box of utility tea bags and of an ongoing four decade- long period of relentless, soul for men with unprovable stuff to prove. Woman, I fi nd a huge hot water urn. There will be a few litres of actual destroying, yeasting darkness has gone unnoticed by are less fussy in matters cafe, usually investing in a milk in an unimpressive utility fridge (no soya) and there many of our city dwellers. Some folks even revel in this complicated tasteful coffee-making machine that gets may be a pump with one type of beer. There will of course modern day delirium, for since the late ‘80s we have been used once to be packed away in a cupboard forever. Coffee be a huge jar of instant coffee. This is my vision of a scrabbling around in a living hell, the living hell that is twattery of course comes with the coffee ritual: this choice less future. Beautiful. Effi cient. People Who Take Their Coffee Very, Very, Seriously. This involves purchasing your coffee from a man who hates “But where is the joy in this austerity?” I hear you nation – the nation of: Johnny Kidd, Lee Brilleaux, Alex you and who is called a ‘barista,’ but who is not actually a ask. Remember: Teddy Boys, Pete ‘n Dud, Mods, Tony Trocchi, Swing ball, Hank B Marvin, and probably some ‘barista.’ He’s just a bloke doing a job he doesn’t want to Hancock, Francis Bacon, The Beatles, Joe Orton, RD women – has become a nation of Coffee Lovers. do. After dithering around for what feels like days, and Laing, The Stones, UFO, The London Free School, Syd During the ‘90s I was lucky enough to spend many fi nally purchasing your coffee from the man who isn’t Barratt, The Counterculture, Hells Angels, Julie Acid, years travelling the globe in my excellent and rather really a barista, it is time to proclaim your knowledge of Hawkwind, Bolan, Bowie, Punk Rock (Superior London spiteful new wave band, The Auteurs. In between coffee loudly enough for strangers (who also hate you) to Version), some stuff that women did. All of this happened haranguing European audiences with my complicated hear, and gnaw at irritatingly small biscuits. in pre -Coffee Loving Britain. word songs, (as well as earning the indifference of Coffee Loving Britain has given us Tony Blair, Nick American audiences) I was able to dine out in the fi ner As rituals go it’s more ‘a cunt’ than ‘occult.’ Then Hornby, Blur, Caitlin Moran and Mumford and Sons. eating establishments, leaving behind the world of there’s that heavy macho baggage about needing a ‘kick’ Finally, to the Greek chorus of coffee lovers who squeak, rehydratable Vesta curries for ever. All well and good for or worse a ‘caffeine hit.’ Here’s a clue gents: the ladies are “But what about the fl avour, the aroma?” I say 1) The an insanely furious twentysomething, but I could never never going to be impressed with a prissy, whiny, coffee water is too bleedin’ hard. 2) You haven’t lived until you’ve grasp European or American coffee culture. And neither nana. It’s also worth noting that when Lemmy – a man had your laughing gear round a steaming mug of Kenco should you. with improbable pulling power – wrote the lines ‘Can’t Gold. get enough/I know it’s righteous stuff’ to his speed freak WE ARE not a ‘Med’ country: cafe culture runs like a psych biker anthem ‘Motorhead’, he wasn’t talking about Pre-order Luke’s new recipe book, Outsider Food and frightened child from our eager dirty old man embrace, Brazilian beans from Neal’s Yard. Righteous Rock ‘n’ Roll, here: bit.ly/outsiderfood