5. Landscape analysis

5.1 This chapter identifies and describes over open countryside. The lower reaches Geology aspects of distinctive landscape character of Millgate has a view over the floodplain 5.7 The geology of Masham comprises in and around Masham. The findings make to the Mill House and the Old Mill. millstone grit overlain by glacial till, with judgements about the key landscape river terrace and alluvium deposits along characteristics, which make the town the Ure valley bottom. distinctive and provide guidelines to help manage landscape change within 5.8 Typically, the soil composition includes: the Conservation Area. brown soils, deep well-drained fine loamy soils with slowly permeable subsoils and 5.2 Masham is situated on the west valley side slight seasonal waterlogging with patches just north of the confluence of the River of deep, stoneless, permeable, fine, loamy Burn with the and is the major river alluvium over gravel in places. settlement in the area. The Ure corridor is recognised as an historically important link across the Pennines between Cumbria Sensitivities & Pressures and the North Moors. 5.9 The rural character and setting of Masham Views towards the floodplain and ‘Shooting Holme’ from the rear yards of properties on the North side of Little Market Place. is sensitive to change. Development has 5.3 The area around Masham, to the east of impacted upon approaches to the town, the town is dominated by the course of the with small industrial units along River Ure as it meanders north to south in Road on the western approach to the town its broad and shallow valley. The scale of and a large feed mill to the south. There the landscape is medium to large up the is a wide range of activities in the area valley sides becoming smaller close to the that impact upon landscape character,in river in the flat valley bottom. particular the continued pressure for the expansion of gravel extraction and Key views quarrying in the river corridor.Intensive 5.4 The major view into the town are from farming practice has resulted in larger high ground above the town from Nutwith fields and large scale modern farm Common and the A6108 East of the Town. buildings and there is an increased pressure for tourist facilities. Some of (See earlier comments). On entering the Open countryside south of St Mary’s church these - specifically caravan parks in the town the character changes dramatically: Significant Field Boundaries the historic core is densely packed and countryside - can have a detrimental there are only restricted views out into 5.6 The landscape is diverse and reasonably impact. These activities impact on the the surrounding countryside. well-balanced with a mix of arable and wildlife value and natural beauty of the grassland use. Fields are generally river corridor. 5.5 Some private properties, particularly those rectilinear, medium to large and bounded on Little Market Place and Silver Street by hedges many of which are fragmented have an elevated position giving them and post and rail fencing is used for stock spectacular views from the rear elevations proofing.

Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 p. 9 The Flood Plain ous trees and a mixture of hedges and 5.10 The floodplain runs in a wide strip to the fencing. To the east, through the kissing east and west of Masham Bridge. The gate is “The standing tree” (This is one fields to the south of Masham Bridge, of six sculptures located as part of the the ‘Shooting Holme’ has an avenue of Masham Leaves trail.) mature lime trees and has recently been 5.18 There are sheep grazing in the field and planted with a row of young oaks. a public footpath to the east. This is the 5.11 The flood plain has a mixture of flat field where sheep racing takes place at the recreational well maintained outdoor annual Masham Sheep Fair. amenity space, rolling meadows and a 5.19 Spatial Quality of the Church garden: small number of agricultural and resident- The garden is basically a well-maintained Landmark trees within the Market Place and environs of ial buildings, notably the Old Mill House St Mary’s Church operational graveyard and burial ground and sewage works to the east. The land 5.15 The area in the town near the Brewery, with a number of specimen trees and is well serviced by public footpaths and Red Lane and Church Street is considered headstones in neat rows. There is seating regularly used by dog walkers. There is to be at a low risk of flooding according to around the south side of the Church, a cricket pitch and bowling green and the Environment Agency. At the boundary which offers a tranquil sunny resting place. a children’s play area. of the Conservation Area to the southwest The large trees in the churchyard allow 5.12 The River Ure is wide at this point and is Swinney Beck flows through residential glimpses through to the countryside but as dominated by Masham Bridge, which is a areas of the town, running in a ditch with you follow the paths the views open out major vehicular route into the town. The frequent pedestrian footbridges. This area beyond the stock fencing. appears to have a low risk of flooding. river level and flow changes in character 5.20 The ‘Masham Leaves’ trail: In the early according to the seasons and levels of 5.16 The Parish Church of St Mary the 1990s Rural Arts North (RANY) rainfall and the area is prone to flooding. Virgin: it is thought that Saint Mary’s was offered funding to Borough originally founded in the seventh century. Council for community arts promotions and Trees Woodland & open spaces The main entrance to the Parish Church is Masham Parish Council devised a project 5.13 Tree and woodland cover are critical to through a gate in a stone wall to the south for the town. The sculptor Alain Ayers the character of the Conservation Area. east of the Market Place. In the church- was commissioned to design and carve linking the harder historic core with its rural yard past the war memorial and Norman leaves using huge slabs of locally quarried surroundings. There are few trees within doorway is a Saxon cross. On the north limestone reclaimed from the former the historic core of the town. Those that side of the church is the grave of Julius railway station platform. Caesar Ibbetson, a seventeenth century do exist make a significant contribution to 5.21 The walk is about three miles and the route local artist. the character of the space. follows public footpaths on level and gently 5.14 The approach to the town from the east is 5.17 Two paths lead into the churchyard to the sloping ground through open land, woods dominating by the character of the flood east and west of the well-kept, neat grave- and along two riverbanks. There are stiles plain and the swathes of native trees to the yard gardens. To the south, east and west along the route, which can be muddy in banks of the River Ure, views into the town are open views to the countryside through the flood plains and where the paths cross are masked with the exception of views of simple timber stock fences. To the west is working agricultural land. St Mary’s Church spire. an undulating field with specimen decidu-

p. 10 Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 6. The form & character of buildings

6.1 There are 68 buildings and structures in Cottage W of Crowham House Silverdale the town included on the statutory list of Crowham House No. 21 buildings of special architectural or historic Nos. 3 & 5 Nos. 25 & 27 interest. The Church of St Mary is Grade Through the Looking Glass (No. 1) No. 29. II*, the remainder are Grade II as follows: Rudston House High Burn Bridge, Swinton Road Low Mains Farmhouse The School South View 6.2 In addition to the numerous listed buildings Bank Villa, Burton Road No. 9 and structures within Masham there are Masham Bridge Bordar House a number of unlisted historic buildings, in College Lane: Ivydene. which make a positive contribution to College Grove in Little Market Place: the character and appearance of the College House. No. 11 Conservation Area and are of particular Low Burn Bridge Town Hall interest locally. These buildings have been identified on the Analysis & Concept in the Market Place: K6 Phone Box. map as being of local interest. There In Millgate: is a general presumption that buildings Churchyard Cross Old Gaol & Carriage Rise of local interest within the Conservation The Old Rectory Mill House Area will be protected from demolition and House (10m west of Old Rectory) The Old Mill the Borough Council will be especially Stanhope Glebe House vigilant when considering applications for Brooklyn House Nos. 8, 10 & 12 alteration or extension. Radleigh House Nos. 2, 4 & 6. Kings Head Cottage in Park Street: 6.3 The traditional buildings of Masham are Kings Head Hotel, Nos. 14, 16 & 18 predominantly eighteenth and nineteenth Nos. 36 & 38 (Morton House) No. 24 century in origin. They are two or three Cogden House The Poplars (Nos. 26 & 28) storeys in height and of a simple vernac- Deepdale Nos. 42 & 46 ular form. What is most striking is the The Croft Methodist Church limited palette of materials used in their Waterloo House No. 21 construction. No. 26 Nos. 23 & 25 No. 24 No. 27. 6.4 There are two distinct elements to the No. 22 (Barclays Bank) town. Those buildings, which face onto Park House, Park Square Nos. 19, 21 & 23 (Lyth Cottage) the towns open spaces (Market Place, Lingdale in Silver Street: Little Market Place) and main arterial Nos. 10, 12, 14 Nos. 1-3 routes (Silver Street, Park Street). These The Spinning Jenny Bay Horse Inn, buildings, although in a robust, vernacular Avon House Fayre Enough Restaurant style, are more imposing and grander Nos. 2 & 4 No. 6 reflecting their original uses as retail or Shop (No. 8?) commercial properties.

Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 p. 11 6.5 In contrast there are numerous alleyways palette of materials is encouraged in any and ginnels whose buildings are smaller in future development. scale housing originally numerous resid- ences and workshops. There are still a 6.11 There is a mixture of ridge or gable small number of businesses operating in chimney stacks predominantly in stone these areas. although there is evidence of brick in some lower status buildings.

General Form 6.12 Stone verge coping and kneelers are a 6.6 Most buildings are orientated with main common feature throughout the town, Yorkshire horizontal sliding sashes frontages aligned along the open spaces although become less apparent behind Floorscape of the Market Place, Little Market Place the major facades and on the lower 6.15 Like most towns and villages bitmac has or main arterial routes. They are built up status buildings. taken over from what was hoggin (comp- directly off the pavement line, giving the acted aggregate) and cobble. In Masham town a hard edge, softened only by the Windows some areas of cobble are still in evidence occasional tree or planter. 6.13 The predominant window style is vertical in particular around the Market Place. sliding sash (two over two, or six over These areas should be retained and 6.7 Roof pitches, ridge heights and eaves vary enhanced where possible. but are unified by the limited palette of six). Yorkshire sliding sashes are also materials used throughout the town. in evidence. PVCu has appeared in the town, however, many buildings retain 6.8 Archways through to developments original timber windows. Most windows behind the road frontages are a particular have stone heads and cills with the higher characteristic of Masham. status buildings having dressed details.

Materials 6.9 Stone and render are the predominant walling materials. Coursed square stones are utilised in the primary facades with cobble and render interspersed through Expanses of bitmac in the Market Place the town. Stone quoins are a common feature together with stone dressings to windows.

Roof Details Vertical sliding sashes 6.10 The majority of roofs are finished in either 6.14 There are a few examples of inapprop- graduated stone slate or Welsh slate (for riate styles of windows and materials. those later or re-roofed buildings). There Priority should be given to ensuring that are very few clay pantiles and even fewer a high standard is maintained throughout modern, interlocking tiles. Great care the town by retaining traditional styles, should be taken to ensure that this limited details and materials of windows.

High quality floorscape enhancement is evident throughout the town

p. 12 Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 Comparison of styles & and copings were still in common use construction details in the at this time but, as seen in No. 9 Market Market Place: Place, a straightforward clipped eaves had also been adopted.

6.16 15-23 Market Place, examples of seven- 6.22 Walls: Rubblestone and coursed teenth century construction and style. rubblestone. Early photos of these 6.17 Roof detail: the roof pitch of this building buildings show a covering of render - a is much steeper than many in the town common solution to disguising a build in and may well have been thatched at one inferior stone. time. The gables are typically treated with 6.23 Windows: these buildings were con- shaped stone kneelers and copings. This structed during Masham’s heyday as a example displays what appears to be an 6.18 Walls: in a course rubber stone, commercial centre and more impressive oringinal end stack to the gable and a facades were designed. This often meant renewed or later addition brickwork ridge which is often of a superior quality on later buildings within the town. larger window openings and higher quality stack. The roof material is diminishing stone dressing and surrounds. Vertical (graduated) stone slates. This method of construct-ion, due to the quality of the stone, is often sliding sashes became more commonly associated with dressed stone used. quoins.

6.19 Windows: the window to wall ration on an earlier building of this type is much lower than later buildings.

6.20 7-9 Market Place, examples of mid-eighteenth century construction and style.

6.21 Roof detail: By this time roof pitches had become much shallower. Although this, and the earlier example, uses graduated stone slates, the advent of the railways in 1875 saw Welsh slate being introduced. Stone kneelers

Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 p. 13 Map 4: Character area analysis: Zoning prosecution or civil proceedings. Harrogate Borough Council 1000 19628 2008 Reproduced from the Ordnance Survey Mapping with permission of Controller Her Majesty’s Stationery Office. ©Crown copyright. Un authorised reproduction may lead to

p. 14 Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 7. Character area analysis

7.1 This section examines the buildings and in general those in Masham is the limited spaces within the Conservation Area in pallet of materials with which they are greater detail looking at sub areas. The constructed. Local stone or render with aim is to identify the special character of stone or slate roofs predominate within the area that provides Masham with its the town, and great care should be taken particular ‘sense of place’ and to summ- to use this restricted palette of materials arise the details and features that are when dealing with new build or extensions. important. The sub areas can be defined according to historical development, 7.6 Those buildings which enclose the building form and uses and location. southern and western boundaries of These areas are: the Market Place incorporate several passageways through to buildings at 1 Market Place & Environs the rear. Historically, these would have 2 St. Mary’s Church housed small scale industries and workshops as well as smaller houses 3 Swinton Terrace and cottages which serviced the town. 4 Black Sheep Brewery (North end) 7.7 The northern boundary is more fragment- 5 Park Street (West to Conservation ed, with the built form being broken by Area Boundary) access through to Church Street and 6 Theakston’s Brewery & Environs The Kings Head - eighteenth century former posting Inn and Little Market Place. surprisingly Excise Office within the heart of the Market Place (Grade II listed). A coaching arch leads through to Kings Head Yard and open 7 Silver Street & Environs farmland beyond. 7.8 The properties 3-13 Market Place form an island separating Market Place from 8 River Ure Floodplain 7.4 Historically, the buildings around the Little Market Place consisting in the main Market Place were low thatched struct- of 2-3 storey stone properties dating from, 1. Market Place & Environs ures, but as Masham developed as an the eighteenth century with their frontages important commercial centre, these 7.2 The historic core of Masham, that is, addressing Market Place. Market Place, Little Market Place, Millgate buildings were upgraded to reflect and St Mary’s Church, forms what was their new status (major re-building and the commercial heart of Masham, housing remodelling took place in the many of the towns public buildings and eighteenth century). commercial properties. 7.5 All the buildings around the Market Place 7.3 In the Market Place many of the buildings are listed as being of special architectural have grander proportions and are or historic interest. They are of two and constructed with superior materials three storey and without exception are and details. built off the back of the pavement line. A dominant feature of these buildings and 3-13 Market Place

Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 p. 15 7.12 Millgate is a former packhorse route which leads to the lower levels of the floodplain, site of a former ford and the old mill. The western end of Millgate is marked by the school (former Grammar School) dating from the mid-eighteenth century to the late nineteenth century of coursed square stone with ashlar dressings and stone slate/machine tile roofs.

7.13 Ivydene marks the entrance to Millgate The Medieval Market Cross (Grade II listed) subdivides the Market Place. It is laid out for parking to the west and space for events (market from Market Place - an imposing mid to stalls) to the east which is used as additional parking space when late eighteenth century house. Ashlar events are not taking place. Mature trees around the cross serve to The southern side of Little Market Place is an untidy mix of the rears of further divide and soften this large hard landscaped space. properties, street furniture, shelters and hard landscaping. stone, Welsh slate and graduated 7.9 Little Market Place includes the 7.11 An important pedestrian route up from the stone slate roof. Community Office and former Police ‘the Shooting Holme’ emerges between 7.14 Millgate is constricted by the stone terrace Station and is dominated by the Town Hall 7&9 Little Market Place (northern side), (2-12 Millgate) on the southern side and - a grade II listed structure built in 1913 of although presently this is very understated. the former gaol to the northern side. coursed square stone with ashlar dressing. This route also gives access to the public Typically all properties are built off the Although only two storeys this building toilets behind No.7 Little Market Place back of pavement which gives emphasis to has a commanding presence within this and descends steeply down to the cricket those limited views through to the distant compact space. ground. This is a restricted path which countryside. would benefit from better signage and 7.10 The Square itself is disjointed, the northern improvements to hard landscaping in 7.15 Nutwith House marks the sharp descent and eastern sides, comprising the Comm- particular the floorscape. of Millgate towards the flood plain and unity Office, Police Station and Town open countryside and stand apart by the Hall, address the Square and are built off nature of its tall stone boundary walls built pavement level, whilst the southern side up to the edge of the carriageway and presents the rear of the properties of 3-13 its landscaped gardens surrounding this Market Place and the bus shelter. detached residence.

The Community Office, Little Market Place: a late eighteenth century building of coursed, dressed stone with a Welsh slate roof. (Grade II listed) The school house originally used as a the grammer school was built by William Danby and was improved by Admiral Harcourt. This building dates from the mid-eighteenth century with ninetheenth century The Town Hall (Grade II listed) commanding Little Market Place additions (Grade II listed)

p. 16 Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 2. St Mary’s Church 3. Swinton Terrace 7.16 St Mary’s Church and its environs forms 7.18 The Swinton Estate has influenced a welcome break from the built up form the appearance of the whole town, but of Market Place in general. Located in especially Swinton Terrace where Ann the south-east corner of Market Place Danby, the second wife of William Danby and dating from the twelfth century with (owner of Swinton and Lord of the Manor), alterations and extensions from the funded the building of twelve almshouses, fourteenth, sixteenth and nineteenth a school and schoolhouse in Swinton Road centuries, the Church is constructed of (Terrace). Limited development has taken coursed squared sandstone and ashlar place along Swinton Road despite it being with a lead roof. an important access road to Swinton Park and beyond. 7.17 The Church’s four stage tower dominates 2-8 Swinton Terrace: the almshouses, although presently unlisted are without doubt ‘landmark’ buildings within Masham. Formalised front the skyline from all approach roads. gardens and decorative railings demarking the boundaries are not However, this dominance is reduced common features in Masham. immediately on entering the town because 7.21 The character of the northern side of of its constricted and built up nature. The Swinton Road is defined by the stone Church’s visual impact returns when one walls and railing demarking the small front enters Market Place, its spire being well gardens to the almshouses and school- framed by specimen trees both around house, an uncommon feature within the the Churchyard entrance and at the Old historic core of Masham. Vicarage. The Churchyard to the south borders onto open countryside while the eastern boundary is in the main contained by the boundary walls of Glebe House, the

former vicarage. The southern extent of Swinton Road/Terrace with the higher status properties 11-19 in the distance. The almshouse is just visible on the right.

7.19 On entering Swinton Road from Park Street the residential properties to the southern side of the road are two storey stone properties built off the back of the pavement with slate roofs while the bays of Nos. 11-19 project to the ground floor. The western end of the Conservation Area is defined by new development around Swinburn Court. The general materials and 7.20 The northern side of the road has a details are sympathetic with Masham’s vernacular and the open space less formalised layout which is visually in front is dictated by Swinney Beck which crosses in front of the dominated by landmark buildings, properties (before eventually joining the River Burn). specifically the Almshouses and school The entrance to St Mary’s Church from the Market Place is framed by mature trees. (now a private residence).

Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008 p. 17 4. Black Sheep Brewery - buildings; there is no established building 7.29 The new development of housing to north end line and limited scope for expansion on The Avenue is not typical of the majority the existing site. One of the landmark of buildings in the town, set back from 7.22 The zone designated as ‘Black Sheep buildings among the group is the former the road with small front gardens which Brewery (North End) includes: The Avenue Lightfoot Brewery maltings building disappear as you progress further including Avenue Bank, the which was later bought by Theakstons into the heart of the town. Garage and the Renton Brewery before being purchased by the Well junction. Black Sheep Brewery in the 1990’s. This 7.23 This area, because of its location on the maltings building dominates the high periphery of the developed town, is rather ground, being visible from the approach fragmented in nature. It is a mix of old road into Masham from Masham bridge, and new development, the key features of and is made distinctive by the ‘Black which are the Black Sheep Brewery site, Sheep Brewery’ sign painted onto the Bank Villa and the Renton Well junction. stonework. 7.26 ‘Bank Villa’ is the only listed building within this zone of the town, an early nineteenth century two storey residence of coursed square stone with ashlar dressings and a Towards the junction at Renton Well where the A6108 leaves the town graduated stone slate roof. This building towards Masham Bridge and the Shooting Holme. The new housing of dominates the junction of the A6108 and The Avenue is visible in the background and the gardens to Bank Villa immediately on the junction. Silver Street, and is distinguished by a large area of garden surrounding the property. 5. Park Street (west to Conservation Area boundary) 7.27 The junction at Renton Well marks the 7.30 Park Street follows very much the seven- point at which the road rises up to the teenth and eighteenth centurydevelopment higher ground where the historic core of The Black Sheep Brewery pattern in the town of two storey, stone- the town is situated. The period “colonial built, short terraced properties built off the 7.24 The Conservation Area boundary bisects style” bungalow (18 Silver Street) is back of the pavement. the brewery complex - with the modern distinctive situated above the well on the phase of construction outside the high ground. Development in this zone 7.31 The street patterns and plot configurations Conservation Area. is disjointed as is style and materials suggests evidence of Medieval crofts and (not uncommon of the periphery of many garths which is further reinforced looking 7.25 The brewery site is a mix of nineteenth historic towns and villages). at older maps of the town, aligned east and twentieth century buildings predomin- to west from Park street. antly two storey. The older buildings are 7.28 Renton Well marks the road junction with of coursed stone with slate roofs. This the A6108 and Silver Street, built in 1887 7.32 There is a mixture of roof pitches along range of industrial buildings has developed to commemorate Queen Victoria’s Golden Park Street reflecting the age range of organically continuing to the present day Jubilee. properties from the seventeenth with new ranges of industrial steel framed century onwards.

p. 18 Masham Conservation Area Character Appraisal - Approved 10 December 2008