DAISY’S DECADE

PARIS IN THE EAST TUBE MOUNTS EXHIBITIONS IN TALK SHANGHAI AND HONG KONG. PAGE 8 MACY’S LINKS WITH YOUTUBE NETWORK STYLEHAUL TO CREATE VIDEOS TO APPEAL TO MILLENNIALS. PAGE 2

PLOTTING THE FUTURE Hudson’s Bay Sees L&T, Saks Expansion

By EVAN CLARK

HUDSON’S BAY CO.’S deal to acquire Saks Inc. is on track and Richard Baker is busy crafting his plan for how the two companies will be brought together. Baker, chief executive officer, told analysts on Hudson’s Bay’s second-quarter conference call that he FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY was exploring, among other things, a broader rollout of its Lord & Taylor outlet stores under Saks’ Off 5th umbrella. WWD Lord & Taylor currently has only four outlet stores. The ceo also sees opportunities to bring seven Saks full-line stores and 25 Off 5th Stores north of the border and to realize some of the value locked up in the real estate portfolio of the combined companies. “Our footprint will cover all of North America, north to south, east to west and nearly all major metropolitan markets,” Baker said, speaking of the two fi rms, which expect to merge later this year in a $2.9 billion deal. Saks’ “go-shop” period under the agreement ended last week and the fi rm reported that no new bidders The Dark came forward. Government offi cials also signed off on the deal under antitrust laws. The buyout might also bring Hudson’s Bay, which trades on the Toronto Stock Exchange, to Wall Street. Chief fi nancial offi cer Michael Culhane told WWD that Knight the fi rm might list its shares in New York at some point. “The biggest thing is, you want to add more trading His set a ravaged beach and boardwalk, in the stock, which creates liquidity for people who closed week with want to go in and out of the stock,” Culhane said. “It’s defi nitely one of the things that we want to do if the a stunning collection in a dark, heavy right opportunity and the right interest are there.” palette that was part Victorian, part The combined company will have 179 full-line dystopian surf with every bit of it dripping stores, 73 outlet stores and 69 home doors and three e-commerce sites, which all together produced sales in adornments. Here, a navy and brown of about $7.2 billion last year. The business combina- embroidered lace dress. For more from tion is also expected to unlock $100 million of annual cost savings within three years. the shows, see pages 4 to 7. Baker also acknowledged the increasing competi- tion for the Canadian high-end shopper. SEE PAGE 8

SPRING 2014 NEW YORK Lululemon Shares COLLECTIONS Fall on Warning

By ARNOLD J. KARR

THE ONGOING EFFECTS of the black Luon yoga pant recall might haunt Christine Day through the re- mainder of her tenure as Lululemon Athletica Inc.’s chief executive officer. Despite reporting second-quarter profits that were down less than expected and better than the company’s or Wall Street’s estimates, shares of the Vancouver-based apparel marketer fell $3.75, or 5.4 percent, to $65.27 Thursday after it lowered its profi t and sales guidance for the year. During a conference call, John Currie, chief fi nancial offi cer, tied the lowered guidance to the fi rm’s recall, dating back to March, and the domino effect it has had on assortments since then. As the company focused on restocking fi rst-quality Luon product, other deliveries lagged. “While we were successful in getting back in stores with Luon, the effort required to get there had a lingering impact on our commercialization and sourc- ing team’s ability to be ready to hand off to our vendors the current season. We anticipate this knock-on effect to continue to impact timing of product deliveries in [the third quarter] and through the balance of the year.” Full-year earnings are now expected to be in the range of $1.94 to $1.97 with revenues of between $1.63 billion to $1.64 billion. The June guidance was for earnings per share of $1.96 to $2.01 and revenues of $1.65 billion to $1.67 billion. Day, who said in June that her tenure as ceo will end upon the appointment of a successor, said during the call that the search for her replacement is continuing, PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 8 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013 WWD.COM Macy’s Millennial Push Hits YouTube THE BRIEFING BOX

By RACHEL BROWN IN TODAY’S WWD

MACY’S INC. is reaching out to Millennials through YouTube. The department store has linked with StyleHaul, a network of fashion and beauty YouTube chan- nels, to create online videos launching Monday by four YouTube personalities — DulceCandy87, or Dulce Candy Tejeda; Carlibel55, or Carli Bybel; Sarahbelle93x, or Sarah Eichelberger, and Carly Cristman — to promote its merchandise aimed at Millennial customers. Although Macy’s has placed its own videos on YouTube before, this effort marks the first time the retailer has loosened its reins on the content by working with outside YouTubers to spot- “Mixing the really raw things light its apparel, accessories and beauty products. with…couture references “We have given the four video bloggers as much [and the] Fifties and Sixties.” latitude as we can to take a look at Macy’s and — Michael van der Ham what they might shop for at Macy’s, and to come For more London TIM JENKINS up with content that is a reflection of their impres- Inspirations, see WWD.com. sion of Macy’s, with the hope that their individual PHOTO BY fan bases will be more excited about shopping at Macy’s has enlisted four YouTube personalities to help Macy’s when they hear one of the vloggers they fol- reach out to Millennials. low had a great experience with us,” said Jennifer Hudson’s Bay Co.’s deal to acquire Saks Inc. is on track Kasper, group vice president, digital media and Each YouTuber chosen for the Macy’s initia- and Richard Baker is busy crafting his plan for how the two multicultural marketing at the retailer. She added tive has her own style profile that interested companies will be brought together. Page 1 that Macy’s believes its assortment speaks to shop- the department store. Horbaczewski noted that pers in their teens and 20s, but conceded, “The Eichelberger is preppy and has a girl-next-door The ongoing effects of Lululemon Athletica Inc.’s yoga pant challenge we have is putting ourselves on the radar sensibility. Tejeda is a free-spirited and casual recall seem likely to linger beyond Christine Day’s tenure as screen with Millennials. We felt that the content mom. Bybel is “always extremely polished and chief executive officer. Page 1 that is being created here could bridge the gap.” made up to the nines,” according to Horbaczewski. The effort also marks a first for StyleHaul, which Cristman is the enviable type who can pull off most Dior just capped off a week of activity in China with back- tapped the resources of its newly formed agency outfits, whether they are centered on sparkly, short to-back events in Hong Kong and Shanghai, inaugurating art and production house, StyleHaul Studios, to de- evening gowns or shorts and booties. Together, Page 8 velop for brands videos that don’t look slapped to- the four YouTubers’ channels have nearly 2.6 exhibitions and reaching out to wealthy consumers. gether in a bedroom, as so many on YouTube do. million subscribers and 303 million views. When During the shoot for Macy’s, for example, a five-per- they tweeted and posted on Instagram from the Stephanie Solomon has been named vice president and fashion son crew filmed the videos and professional editing Macy’s shoot about three weeks ago, those social director of women’s ready-to-wear at Lord & Taylor. Page 8 helped with the final touches. The videos “are truly media hints at the larger Macy’s campaign gener- this hybrid between premium content and what the ated more than 4 million impressions and almost The eye for detail that has made Troy Surratt a favorite of girls are already making,” explained Stephanie 100,000 engagements with the content. Adele and Charlize Theron will soon be visible in the makeup Horbaczewski, StyleHaul’s president and chief ex- Partly to attract Millennials, Macy’s has been in- artist’s first signature beauty collection. Page 9 ecutive officer. “If you are watching it on their chan- creasing its digital ad spend. In total, the retailer’s nels, you would never think they were not involved advertising expense was $1.18 billion last year, up Two new senior executives have been named for with the creation of the content, and if you were slightly from $1.14 billion in 2011, and it is estimat- Inc.’s U.S. Fragrance & Beauté Division and will assume watching it on a premium channel, you would never ed Macy’s has allotted at least 12 percent of its ad their duties in November. Page 9 not think it was premium.” budget to the digital space. Twitter sent out a tweet Thursday afternoon alerting that it has confidentially submitted an S-1 to the Securities and Wooster Buys Stake in Atrium Exchange Commission for a planned IPO. Page 9

Sophia Amoruso, founder and chief executive officer of Nasty ing fashion trends has gotten increasingly difficult. Gal, has struck her first book deal. Page 9 By JEAN E. PALMIERI Because of this, he converted Atrium into men’s-on-

ly earlier this year, dropping the fast-moving wom- NEW YORK — Nick Wooster is back in the retail busi- en’s merchandise. “ Yo u have to know what you’re A roundup of the party scene during ness — but this time, he’s got a piece of the action. doing today with all the new vendors. Yo u have to on Tuesday and Wednesday. Page 10 Sam Ben-Avraham, the owner of the Atrium travel to shows in Japan and Paris and find new stores and founder of the Liberty Fairs trade brands. I just cannot do that,” Ben-Avraham said. Giorgio will stage his “One Night Only New York” event show, has sold a partnership stake in Atrium’s two “And I want to do that,” Wooster said. “It’s no se- on Oct. 24 and show his most recent Privé collection, Nude, as New York stores to Wooster. He declined to pro- cret I’m a compulsive shopper.” well as a retrospective of his couture designs. Page 11 vide details on the size of the stake or the level of Wooster said buying a stake in a retail store has Wooster’s investment. been a lifelong dream, ever since he started working ON WWD.COM Wooster, who most recently served as senior vice in a Kansas specialty store when he was 15. “I’ve al- FASHION: From English country gardens to Madame Vionnet president of brand, trend and design for J.C. Penney ways thought of myself as a retailer. Anybody can pick and the Mediterranean coast, inspirations come in many and was also men’s fashion di- fantastic product, but you have to forms for London designers. For more, see WWD.com. rector for Neiman Marcus and Sam Ben-Avraham be able to make money too.” Bergdorf Goodman, will play the and Nick Wooster He said his impact on the role of creative director of Atrium, merchandising will begin to be CLARIFICATION the new partners said in an inter- seen for spring but the bulk of Blake Nordstrom said Nordstrom Inc. had e-commerce sales view in Ben-Avraham’s SoHo of- the changes will be felt next fall. of $1.3 billion last year. This was incorrect in a story on page fice here. Ben-Avraham will con- Atrium is known for its large se- one, Thursday, due to an error in a third-party transcript of tinue to own the company’s Miami lection of denim as well as de- Nordstrom’s comments at an investor conference. store exclusively, he said. signer merchandise. The New York stores on “The first thing is to understand TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. Flatbush Avenue in Brooklyn the business,” Wooster said. “I’m WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. and Broadway in NoHo will be very interested in traditional men’s COPYRIGHT ©2013 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. renamed Atrium Wooster within wear and nontraditional men’s VOLUME 206, NO. 55. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays,

CRISTIANO MORROY Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, May, June, August, October and December, and two the next few weeks; the Florida wear, and the store will reflect additional issues in February, April, September and November) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance store will continue to sport just that.” He said denim is the store’s Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, the Atrium name. This year marks PHOTO BY “best developed” business, “but the Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, Atrium’s 20th year in business. fashion part is up for grabs. I’ll re- and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West Beaver “We’re going to keep the foundation and move into spect the heritage and keep an eye on the future.” Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 15008, North a new era,” Ben-Avraham said. “I’ve always run the He is also expected to significantly improve the Hollywood, CA 91615 5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit www.subnow.com/wd. show myself and I love the game of retail, but lately company’s online presence, in terms of both e-com- Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or I’ve been doing a lot of other things. And I realized I merce and social media. Wooster is an avid partici- inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine can’t do everything well. [To be successful in retail,] pant in social media. is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. you have to live this every day and dream it every day.” Ben-Avraham said Atrium’s best years were 2005 You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt Earlier this year, Ben-Avraham launched a new to 2007 and volume hasn’t come back to that place of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request to 212-630-5883. For all request trade show under the name Liberty Fairs and formed yet. “But we survived.” And with Wooster’s ability for reprints of articles please contact The YGS Group at [email protected], or call 800-501-9571. Visit us online at a strategic alliance with other trade show opera- to find new brands, coupled with his expertise on- www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that tors to compete against Advanstar Communications’ line, “we can really increase sales.” He declined to we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at MAGIC Marketplace and its flagship show Project. provide a sales volume for the business. P. O . Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED Ben-Avraham founded Project in 2003 and sold it to Ben-Avraham said he had been considering ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER Advanstar in 2005 for about $38 million. bringing on a partner for a while. Sitting next to UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR He said that juggling this while acting as the Wooster at a dinner in Las Vegas last month led to DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A buyer for the stores and keeping up with the chang- the conversation that resulted in this week’s deal. SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. clinique.com © Clinique Laboratories, LLC strong, healthy skin? Everything. skin? healthy strong, What does awater balloon tell us about Moisture stays in. Skinfeels soft, has ahealthy glow. Allergy Tested. 100% Fragrance Free. With anew complex, our formula now strengthens skin’s own moisture by barrier 54%.

Dramatically Different Moisturizing Lotion + 4 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013

Ralph Lauren: After 45 years, is Ralph Lauren getting nostalgic for the days when he laid the foundation of his empire? When Mod ruled fashion and a cool guy from the Bronx likely took notice of the sartorial swings of Carnaby Street? So it seemed with the spring collection Ralph Lauren showed on Thursday, a spare but feisty affair that charmed and puzzled in equal measure. There’s much to be said for simplicity, and what better statement of minimalist allure than the Mod shift — young, snappy, versatile. Lauren devoted a good deal of his lineup to it with lovely results, from the girlish, white-collared black knit that opened the show to the notice- me versions in high- impact colors (at least the yellow, cobalt and lime green; one draws the line at neon- orange leather). There was a major, appealing black-and-white motif, both solids and graphics, the latter including a striped shirtdress with ruffled hem and tattersall sweater dress. The best pattern, however, was a flamboyant floral on a cady suit and Ralph Lauren terrific leather trench, both utterly delightful. Ralph Lauren’s men’s Lauren wear looks proved more perplexing. True, much of it had a jaunty flair befitting its inspiration and was delightful — to a point. Unlike the dresses that had a natural ease, the tailoring sometimes turned costumey, confounding to anyone who walked through the designer’s men’s presentation last month. There, in the graceful confines of Lauren’s headquarters, guests experienced the pure luxury radiating from his Purple and Black labels. True, men’s is another fashion animal altogether, and the context of showing, very different. But the sense of luxury so innate to Lauren’s ethos should have translated more obviously. Here, the look trumped the luxe. New Yo r k What shone through brilliantly: Lauren’s razor-sharp focus on accessories. Many of RALPH LAUREN’S TAKE ON CARNABY STREET AND the looks featured , often in matched combinations — like-toned bright patent with the vibrant dresses; a calf Ricky printed à la a Greek-key jacquard dress. These were invariably terrific. WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013 5 WWD.COM

Calvin Klein Collection: The Calvin Klein Calvin Klein Calvin Klein dawn of a new decade. Collection Collection A raw new venue. A powerful sensibility. Marking his 10th anniversary designing Calvin Klein Collection, Francisco Costa didn’t revisit his greatest hits. Instead, he advanced his stamp on the house with several different directions, the sum of which provided an impressive take on Calvin Klein’s modernist codes. The strength came in the diversity of Costa’s approach, from the architectural shapes — a clear comfort zone for the designer — to the masterful fabric manipulation, a dose of streety chic and even FOR MORE REVIEWS some unexpected (and AND IMAGES, SEE daring) touches of razzle- dazzle that were anything WWD.com/ but minimalist. But more runway. on that later. Backstage before the show, Costa explained that he was channeling a multitude of artistic influences, from Pablo Picasso and Jean- Michel Basquiat to Gordon Matta-Clark, the American artist who was known for taking significant sections out of abandoned buildings or chopping them in half. “Maybe it’s slightly out of the box for us,” Costa said. “I think we took a chance.” One that paid off. He started with a riff on complex cuts and draping, some with Calvin Klein exposed folds in contrast Collection colors, like the slices of orange on a beige double- face canvas jacket and skirt. He also focused on the waist, often with wide bands placed strategically below the torso, most notably on slouchy, denimlike painter’s pants that skimmed the floor. Throughout, there were fascinating details, which required a closer viewing and may not have benefited from the cool, vast space at Spring Studios. Costa worked transparency to substantial, not flimsy, effect: One oversize silk and nylon T-shirt looked like mesh but felt as soft as cashmere, while a jacket that read tweed, with vibrant threads dangling from its hem, was actually a beautifully woven leather. As for a colorful striped coat, Costa pieced together fine snakeskin strips, an inventive expression of modern luxury. That the customer who Collections appreciates such luxury may also enjoy a little noise is something that must not go unnoticed by COLLECTION’S ARTISTIC INFUSION WERE PART OF SPRING’S GRAND FINALE. Costa, who had several gorgeous dresses that were finely frayed like fringe — the strongest iteration a black-and- white evening dress with Twenties flapper flash. If

GIANNONI AND THOMAS IANNACCONE ERICKSEN, GIOVANNI KYLE STEVE EICHNER, they gave any indication of Costa’s future direction at the house, that future

PHOTOS BY is looking bright. 6 WWD friday, september 13, 2013

Marc Jacobs: “This is the way you want to live?” the Leading Player Marc Jacobs Marc Jacobs asks Pippin, who has decided to scale down his aspirations in favor of a simpler life. “No costumes?... And no magic!” The line resonated deeply with at least one audience member. “What would life be without [the costumes, makeup, etc.]?” Marc Jacobs recalled thinking. “Nah, not an ordinary life, not interested in that. Let’s do what we love, and do a lot of it.” A lot is exactly what Jacobs showed, and it was extraordinary. It’s too tidy to attribute Jacobs’ remarkable closure of the New York season on Thursday night to a single Broadway trigger; his thought process and work are seldom so linear. The show sprung as well from a lamp shade (the braid trim); past collections (Violet Incredible; military) long-invoked influences (Courtney Love) and the feeling that nanny oversight has taken the Goth out of Gotham. “It doesn’t seem like there’s much decadence anymore,” Jacobs said during a preview. “I’m not allowed to smoke in the park. I’m not allowed to walk my dog in the grass.” He then thought of instances of brazen self-expression — artist Paul McCarthy’s show at the uptown armory; the Burning Man Festival (even though he’s never been). And why fashion is so obsessed with new and modern. What, if anything, do those concepts mean, and who cares, anyway? Somehow he fermented all of these swirling thoughts into a complex treatise on Victorian decadence: dark, dangerous and utterly compelling. The set, a highly stylized post-catastrophe beach littered with debris — broken lifeguard chair; frozen treats fridge; ancient, rusted Marc Jacobs bus — was designed to look like a stage set midway through deconstruction. The opening music, the theme from “Jaws,” got hearts racing beyond the palpitations brought on by the venue’s extreme heat. But here was no wonton beach party. Rather, Jacobs went dark and weighty in fact as well as mood, to a degree that flew in the face of traditional notions of spring dressing and which, from a merch standpoint, will surely be controversial. The overall look was opulent, the day clothes either riffs on old, elegant officers’ jackets worn over re-fabricated surf shorts or loose-cut dresses and sweatshirts in thick velours. Evening presented a mesmerizing parade of slightly deranged-looking Victorian heroines in mourning — their darkness highlighted by intricate embroideries. Though impossible to detail the work in these clothes (at least on tight deadline), it is not exaggeration to note that they approached couture in beauty and craftsmanship. Everything — including bags, moccasins and sandals — was embroidered, sequined, appliquéd, braided and tasseled beyond reason (Jacobs joked that there isn’t a whorehouse in all of France that could find enough trim for a throw pillow). But then, as he sees it, fashion is the farthest thing from reason. Is a dress or jacket modern? Is it too dark for spring, too heavy, too SPRING 2014 this, too that? “It doesn’t matter,” Jacobs said. “All that matters is, NEW YORK do you want it or don’t you? Does MITRA AND ROBERT CHINSEE COLLECTIONS it pull at your heart like fashion is supposed to? Like I said from EORGE Pippin, what would life be like G RODIN BANICA

BY without all of this?” So bring it BY on — the costumes, the tassels, the

PHOTOS fringe, the dark magic. PHOTOS

w13a006(7)a;9.indd 1 9/12/13 10:13 PM 09122013221343 WWD friday, september 13, 2013 7 WWD.COM

Anna Sui: Listening to talk Anna Sui Norma Elizabeth through her inspirations each season Kamali and James — always so lush and layered with references culled from her travels, music and artists — is a trip. The designer took one herself this year, to London, where she saw the Pre- Raphaelite exhibition at the Tate Modern. Wouldn’t you know it, Jimmy Page’s collection of tapestries was part of the show, and voila, the idea for Sui’s spring lineup was born. She sent out 51 looks in copper wallpaper prints and sienna nouveau florals. They were trimmed with fringe and embroideries, some with a scarf draped across one shoulder, others with medallions dripping from their necks. It was a heady look with, for example, an indigo jacquard cross- over top paired with drawstring pants and a mammoth beaded necklace and cuff, and a watercolor-washed taffeta jacket with a pretty sparrow print dress and embellished sandals. In Sui’s hands, more really was more.

Norma Kamali: Fashion is all about reinvention and Norma Kamali is no exception. This season she reintroduced her iconic 1980 “Sweats” collection, a lineup that this paper featured on its front page in November 1980. At Kamali’s presentation on Thursday, she said that story propelled powersuit- wearing women into casualwear, inspiring a generation of Flashdancers. This time around, Kamali used lighter-weight fabrics in black, white and gray for silhouettes that included a cropped top, a sleeveless midi dress and elastic-ankle pants. She also tackled activewear with a Supplex knit, micro-mesh and technical jersey group with functional bra tops, baseball jackets and leggings with strategically placed mesh vents. The latter could be perfect for the newest dance craze.

Elizabeth and James: Like any emerging Thakoon collection, it takes time to find the right Addition voice, one that customers respond to that still feels true to the designers. Over the last few seasons Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen have discovered that the Elizabeth and James girl craves ease, so that’s just what the designers delivered for spring. “Women work, so it’s about day-to- night dressing,” said Mary-Kate at the For more reVIeWS intimate presentation in the Garment AND ImAGeS, See District. WWD.com/ There was soft suiting, a navy runway. crepe single-button jacket worn with elastic bottom pants (a highlight) and the season’s requisite mesh, the Olsens’ version done in soft white jersey and shown as a sweatshirt-and- midi skirt combo. There were also plays on proportion via cropped tops and oversize bottoms, while some of their best-selling bags got sized down into Fallon: Runway shows aren’t just for mini versions. fashion designers. Dana Lorenz sent her spring collection of Fallon Thakoon Addition: Athletic meets African costume jewelry down the catwalk layering describes the main themes of Wednesday night, fulfilling a Thakoon Addition’s spring collection. longtime dream. “I’ve wanted to Printed plaid shorts featured a draped have a fashion show since I was in layer on the side, while two shirts — high school,” Lorenz quipped. one white, one plaid — were stitched Things opened with four large together at the waist. If the outer shirt screens projecting a video by is worn down, it creates the illusion Marcel Wepper of a tough and of having a shirt wrapped around the sexy blonde, dressed in black hips, or if worn up, it looks like the two leather and denim, committing tops are layered. a jewelry heist. Then out came “The inspiration in this collection similarly outfitted models — in comes from the way African women black separates designed for the wrap and layer fabrics together,” show by Ohne Titel, along with explained Thakoon Panichgul. “Then some vintage Nineties-style denim I add a sportif element.” — all draped in piles of Fallon That sporty element blended well jewelry. Fringe-chain details with this concept — it was present in came on necklaces and brooches techno fabrics used in a bright-yellow pinned to jeans; spikes covered anorak, a full miniskirt and a black MITRA AND ROBERT cuffs and the brim of an Albertus nylon shirt. Swanepoel biker hat, and pearls Silhouette-wise, the marriage of and gemstones were layered on the two came across seamlessly, as in a necklaces, bracelets and even a white cotton top with side drape detail RODIN BANICA

BY leather cross-body just the and layered with a blue cropped top, right size to hold a cell phone. then paired with blue cotton shorts

PHOTOS that featured a ribbed waistband.

w13a006(7)a;6.indd 2 9/12/13 9:32 PM 09122013213352 8 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013 The “Esprit Dior” exhibit runs through Nov. 10. Dior Comes to China With Exhibits

By CASEY HALL An image from “Lady Dior as Seen By.”

SHANGHAI — Dior just capped off a week of activity in China with back-to- ior

back events in Hong Kong and Shanghai, d

inaugurating art exhibitions and reach- of ing out to wealthy consumers.

Bernard Arnault and Christian Dior ourtesy c

president and chief executive officer d/

Sidney Toledano joined the likes of Lucie AN

de la Falaise, Louise Bourgoin and actress- ertr b

es Zhao Wei, Shu Qi and Gianna Jun to N sy imo A

fete the Thursday evening opening of the s “Esprit Dior” exhibition, a multistory ex- Alm travaganza of sketches, photographs, short Virgile

films, artworks, bags, shoes and dresses. Nicky Shanghai’s Museum of Contemporary Art hoto by

in downtown People’s Park is hosting the p exhibition through Nov. 10. photo by Beginning with Christian Dior’s revo- tempted to take the stage to accept her Earlier in the week, Toledano at- into the macroeconomics. In this coun- lutionary “New Look” in 1947, the exhi- gold statuette this year. tended the Hong Kong incarnation of the try I see huge potential for us, we are al- bition covers decades of vintage frocks other exhibition highlights include house’s traveling “Lady Dior as Seen By” ready successful, which is because of the designed by Dior himself, alongside John photos by Patrick Demarchelier, illustra- exhibition featuring artists’ interpreta- way we have approached the market, so Galliano’s greatest hits and the current tions by René Gruau and works by Chinese tions of the house’s quilted . we will continue the same way,” he said. interpretation of the house presented by contemporary artists like Liu Jianhua, Lin That event coincided with the reopen- Though he declined to give exact fig- creative director Raf Simons. Tianmiao, Qiu Zhijie and Yan Pei-Ming. ing of Dior’s refurbished store at The ures, Toledano said he is very happy with The looks are exhibited in themed According to Toledano, it’s this thread Landmark in Central. the growth of Dior in Mainland China, rooms, each representing Christian linking Dior’s past and present, exhibited As many luxury houses reel in their which remains in “double digits” and Dior’s varied preoccupations and inspi- in a country many believe represents the ambitious expansion plans amidst hasn’t been affected “at all” by the Chinese rations. Gardens, the colors pink and future of luxury consumption, that makes China’s changing political landscape and government’s recent crackdown on gifting. red, the city of Paris and the longtime “Esprit Dior” more of a “cultural mo- economic slowdown, Toledano said the Among the segments doing particu- relationship between the French cou- ment” than simply a fashion statement. brand will continue its slow and steady larly well in Mainland China, Toledano ture house and its famous fans are all on “We wanted to do this show in China approach to expansion in the market. pointed to women’s ready-to-wear, display, with the celebrity-themed room because we believe the Chinese, our cur- “People are talking about the market men’s wear and the brand’s Victoire de featuring gowns worn by Hollywood rent and future customers, today they slowing down, but I don’t read too much Castellane designed line of fine jewelry, starlets to Academy Awards ceremonies need more understanding about the spir- into the economics because we know our the ultrafemininity of which, according — including the off-white number that it of the company, beyond the dress or roots, I see the minds of our clients and to the Dior president, has been a hit with tripped up Jennifer Lawrence as she at- the bag they want to buy,” he said. potential clients and that’s why I’m not Chinese women. Pant Recall Impact Lingers at Lululemon Baker Gives Vision Pant Recall Impact Lingers at Lululemon {Continued from page one} The post of executive vice presi- in share price than Lululemon Of Hudson’s Saks with the narrowing of the list from dent of product remains open. Day on Thursday. The men’s wear re- “several high-caliber candidates” to a said management of that appoint- tailer reported lower sales and {Continued from page one} ceo designee in the “coming months.” ment is likely to be “coordinated earnings for the second quarter on “We believe in Canada that a certain percentage of “The start date for the success- with the ceo hire.” Wednesday and brought profit pro- the luxury shopper is leaving Canada and coming to ful person will be dependent on For the 13 weeks ended Aug. 4, jections down for the remainder the United States to do their shop,” Baker said. “And the required notice period, move to net income fell 1.3 percent to $56.5 of the year, and its shares were off we believe as Saks and Nordstrom open up stores in Vancouver, etc.,” she told analysts. million versus $57.2 million in 12.1 percent to $34.08. Canada that’s going to create greater opportunities But there was progress to report profits during the second quarter Lululemon, which enjoyed for Canadians to stay in Canada and do their shopping on several of the vacancies with of 2012, translating into 39 cents a nearly uninterrupted growth in its and we believe we’re going to be a strong part of that.” which Day has wrestled recently. diluted share for both periods. The market capitalization since going But that’s all in the future. For now, the pending Steven Berube, formerly vice presi- 2013 performance was better than public in 2007, saw its shares tum- deal is weighing on Hudson’s Bay and the Lord & dent of production, distribution the consensus estimate of 35 cents ble in March after the black Luon Taylor division is showing some weakness. and customer service at Cole Haan, and the range provided by the com- recall, and again in June, when The company’s second-quarter net losses totaled 82.3 has joined the company as senior pany in June of between 33 and 35 Day disclosed her plans to leave million Canadian dollars, or $79.8 million, compared vice president of distribution and cents. Revenues rose 21.9 percent the firm. Its 52-week high of $82.50 with earnings of 22.2 million Canadian dollars, or $21.8 logistics. Additionally, Jennifer to $344.5 million from $282.6 mil- was reached on June 10, just prior million, a year earlier. Financing costs more than tripled Battersby, formerly senior vice lion. Same-store sales rose 8 per- to news of Day’s impending depar- to 76.9 million Canadian dollars, or $74.5 million, in the president of Mast Industries with cent on a constant-dollar basis, bet- ture, and the corresponding low of quarter, with 59.9 million Canadian dollars, or $58.1 mil- responsibility for Victoria’s Secret’s ter than the firm’s June target of 7 $59.60 just 11 days later. lion, of that coming from non-cash expense tied to the production in Asia, has joined the percent. The store count rose to 226 The company said it had en- deal. Some of those acquisition-related costs could be re- company as senior vice president of from 189 a year ago. tered into an agreement with versed depending on how the Hudson’s Bay stock price sourcing, quality and commercial- Among apparel and retail stocks Noble Biomaterials giving it global performs between now and when the deal closes. ization in a consolidation of lead- traded in the U.S. and tracked by exclusivity for the firm’s X-Static Hudson’s Bay’s normalized net earnings for the ership involving functions that had WWD, only The Men’s Wearhouse antimicrobial technology for per- quarter tallied 3.9 million Canadian dollars, or $3.8 previously been split. Inc. experienced a steeper decline formance apparel. million, versus losses of 2 million Canadian dollars, or $2 million, a year ago. Sales for the three months ended Aug. 3 increased 3.9 percent to 947.7 million Canadian dollars, or $918.6 million, from 911.9 million Canadian dollars, Solomon Named Fashion Director at L&T or $896.2 million. U.S. dollar figures are presented at average exchange rates for the respective periods. I could ever receive. There was no doubt in my mind. Hudson’s Bay comparable-store sales grew by 6.2 By SHARoN EDELSoN There’s no other store I’d rather work for. It’s the oldest percent, while Lord & Taylor’s comps slipped 1.2 per- department store in the U.S. and it has a deep, rich heri- cent. E-commerce sales jumped 56.1 percent to 37.3 NEW YoRK — Stephanie Solomon has been named tage. [president of Lord & Taylor in the million Canadian dollars, or $36.2 million. vice president and fashion director of women’s ready- Thirties and Forties] introduced American Baker said the Lord & Taylor chain has been hit by to-wear at Lord & Taylor, effective Sept. 23, the com- to the fashion world. It’s always been a store that’s held weakness in the wake of Hurricane Sandy last year. pany’s parent, Hudson’s Bay Co., said Thursday. great value to me. I believe in the DNA of Lord & Taylor. “Lord & Taylor has a high concentration of stores Solomon, the former vice president of fashion direc- It potentially could be a big player in the retail sphere.” in the hurricane zone and I think a lot of dollars in tion at Bloomingdale’s, who retired on June 7, found “We’re looking for Stephanie to look at the whole that zone are being used for some period of time on that smelling the roses wasn’t exactly what she wanted. brand matrix and see what we’re missing, to grow homes and cars and renovations and landscaping, Rather, she said she missed the excitement, challenges our contemporary business and look at the whole de- that kind of thing, that’s moving some spend outside and frustrations of the fashion industry. “I’m too pas- signer business and decide where we want to go,” said of our category,” he said. sionate about what I do to really retire,” Solomon said. Suzanne Timmins, senior vice president of the fashion Although traffic was lower than a year earlier, “I found out that three weeks of communing with na- office for HBC, to whom Solomon will report. “As we Lord & Taylor saw relative strength in men’s apparel, ture” is enough. “It’s nice to have time to reflect on your- launch our footwear floor some time in the future, we’ll handbags and watches, while women’s apparel and self. I’m fortunate that I had that opportunity. Twenty- rely on her for positioning. We’re looking at our market- shoes underperformed. nine years is a long time to be married to a brand.” ing and online business. Everything needs a great eye.” At the Hudson’s Bay division, sales were strong in Solomon spent 29 years in the Bloomingdale’s Solomon, who was a teacher when she was recruited women’s and men’s apparel, women’s shoes, hand- fashion office. by the legendary Kal Ruttenstein at Bloomingdale’s, bags and accessories. The chain’s Topshop-Topman When Lord & Taylor called her to discuss the posi- is an intrepid explorer. “I love the idea of taking on a partnership also showed continued growth. tion, Solomon said, “It was the most pleasant surprise whole new opportunity,” she said. “It’s so energizing.”

w13a008a.indd 8 9/12/13 8:24 PM 09122013202503 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013 9 WWD.COM Twitter Files for IPO beauty SAN frANCiSCo-based Twitter sent out a tweet Thursday afternoon alerting that it has “confidentially submitted an S-1 to the [Securities and exchange Commission] for a planned iPo. This tweet does not constitute an Troy Surratt Makes His Mark offer of any securities for sale.” The finish on the packaging, described as a matte gra- The tweet confirms rumors in the markets By Molly Prior dation, was inspired by a trip to Monaco, where matte over the last few days that Twitter would be the black luxury cars were abundant. The glossy logo, de- next social media firm to do an iPo and that a The eye for detail that has made Troy Surratt a fa- signed by Carl Wellman, is subtle and only visible when it filing was imminent. The company has an esti- vorite of Adele and Charlize Theron will soon be visible catches the light. The retail displays were designed and mated valuation of at least $9.5 billion, sources in the makeup artist’s first signature beauty collection. manufactured by rPG. said. Twitter has received nearly $1.2 billion in Called Surratt, the line is inspired by his fascination with “out of the gate, i want to be perceived as a new venture capital funding, and it was expected Japanese beauty products, which he’s become familiar with brand that’s a player,” said Surratt, who has positioned that at some point investors would want a return on annual visits to the country. the range to sit comfortably among Chanel and Dior. on their investments. “As a beauty lover and a product lover, i was so taken Prices begin at around $20 for an eye shadow and rise Twitter on Monday said it acquired MoPub, a with Tokyo,” said Surratt, who has become a veritable to $50 for the tinted moisturizer, Surreal Skin Perfector. mobile ad exchange start-up. The acquisition, re- student of Japanese beauty culture. “in Ainz-Tulpe in Surratt’s interest in Japan has been percolating since portedly for $350 million, gives Twitter a mobile Tokyo there are aisles and aisles of eyelash curlers,” said his days as a protégé of legendary makeup artist Kevyn platform for advertising revenues. Surratt, as his eyes widened with excitement. Aucoin more than a decade ago. At that time, Aucoin Also, late last month, Twitter hired former he’d stock up on beauty products during trips to was working with to develop products for the Ticketmaster Ceo Nathan hubbard to the new Japan, but his clients began to bemoan the fact that they Japanese cosmetics brand inoui. position of head of commerce, a sign that monetiz- didn’t have access to the Japanese items ing the platform is in the works. in his kit. So Surratt and his partner Twitter has been extremely popular with Nathaniel hawkins, a celeb- fashion followers and the brands themselves. rity hairstylist who , Victoria’s Secret, DKNy and serves as the Surratt Burberry are among the many firms that are very brand’s chief market- visible on Twitter and consider it a key rung in ing officer, spent the their social media strategy. last four years devel- Twitter was founded in March 2006 by Jack oping a makeup range Dorsey. The online social networking service al- sourced and produced lows users to send and read messages of up to entirely in Japan. 140 characters. — Vicki M. Young The collection — com- prised of 114 stockkeeping units — is slated to launch next month on the new beau- ty floor at both Barneys New york’s Madison MeMo pad Avenue and Beverly hills locations. it will NASTY TALE: Sophia Amoruso, founder and chief then roll out to Barneys’ executive officer of Nasty Gal, has struck her first six remaining doors, where book deal. “#GirlBoss: how to Write your own it will be available exclusive- rules While Turning heads and Turning Profits” ly for one year. has been acquired by the Portfolio and Putnam Bettina o’Neill, vice presi- Select items imprints of Penguin random house. Scheduled for dent and divisional merchan- from the publication in May, the book is part memoir and part dise manager of cosmetics and upcoming business advice. Amoruso will relate her personal fragrance at Barneys New york, story, as well as offer insights into entrepreneurship Surratt line. o said she first met with Surratt and career success for young women.

about the line before he had AQUIN “The most obvious thing would be to do a N

product in hand to show. oh style book, but i was way more excited to do a “Usually, we look at product J business book,” Amoruso told WWD. She said her before we decide to carry a line, career path has been anything but conventional.

but i was really sold on him,” photo by She left home at 17, forgoing college, and began said o’Neill. “he has a passion for rummaging through thrift stores as a means makeup. he’s definitely a perfectionist and he wants to “i felt like if i could get my hands on inoui, i could do of survival. She started her business as a one- make it the best possible.” makeup as beautifully as Kevyn,” recalled Surratt, who woman eBay store. Determined to infuse the line with a point of differ- becomes visibly emotional when speaking of his former Today, at 29, she ence, Surratt — who helped develop Tarte Cosmetics 13 mentor, who passed away in 2002. he’s certain that Aucoin, now helms a $100 Sophia years ago — has zeroed in on the details. who favored the pet name “ladybug” for friends, has given million-plus retail Amoruso “When i designed the line, i asked myself two ques- this pursuit his blessing. Surratt has recently spotted lady- enterprise that tions the entire time: is it cool and is it modern?” he said. bugs everywhere — including on location during a photo sells contemporary Products that fit that description include the Smoky shoot and printed on the blouse of an executive with whom sportswear and eye Baton, which has a creamy liner on one end and cor- he was meeting. he pays homage to Aucoin with the rose one-of-a-kind responding eye shadow on the other to allow users to shade of lipslique lipstick called hevyn. vintage discoveries. achieve a foolproof smoky eye; the Auto-Graphique liner Surratt and hawkins are self-funding the venture, but Nasty Gal employs — with a tip inspired by Japanese calligraphy brushes — are currently meeting with potential investors. 350 people and with a refillable ink cartridge, and Pointilliste Mascara, Surratt’s entry into Barneys is part an upswing of activ- has more than 2.5 a lightweight formula designed to tint lower lashes. “i’m ity in the color cosmetics space. This month alone, makeup million followers Team lower lash,” quipped Surratt. artist Charlotte Tilbury’s beauty collection launched at across social media. Blush and eye shadow pans are ultrathin and slide Selfridges in london and the edgy, music scene-inspired Always feeling open, and are designed to fit seamlessly inside customiz- line Ardency inn hit 31 Sephora stores in North America. like an outsider, able palettes. “We’ve created a system of shapes to allow Meanwhile, in August, l’oréal launched em by Michelle she realized that customers to create their own palettes,” said Surratt. he Phan online and Sephora introduced Marc Jacobs makeup. by working hard, pointed out that formulas are not pressed into metal pans in Surratt’s view, makeup artists offer credibility to being legitimate, but poured directly into the plastic in slurry consumers. “it’s been a long time since we’ve had new- taking shortcuts and form, which give the powders a “velvety smooth texture.” ness,” he declared. trial and error, she could find success. “i came in the back door to running a corporation and Gommichon, Appolinaire Tapped at Chanel Inc. being a ceo,” she said. The book will been named senior vice president of contain chapters By JUlie NAUGhToN sales, fragrance & Beauté. The po- on the power of sition, now vacant, was last held by magical thinking, TWo NeW senior executives have Joyce Green. being open and looking out for cues, and been named for Chanel inc.’s U.S. Gommichon is currently general different ways of manifesting great things in your fragrance & Beauté Division and will manager and managing director life. “i have three pieces of advice i want you to assume their new duties in November. for the Middle east and india, and remember: Don’t ever grow up. Don’t become Julien Gommichon has been will report to John Galantic, presi- a bore. Don’t let the Man get to you. oK? Cool. named executive vice president of dent and chief operating officer for Then let’s do this,” she writes in the book. fragrance & Beauté, succeeding Julien Gommichon Aude Appolinaire Chanel in the U.S. “The book is how you can follow your nose and Christine Dagousset, who was pro- Appolinaire is currently regional be open to different possibilities to your future. moted to global deputy general man- come global president, fragrance & marketing director, fragrance & it’s the business book for the girl who didn’t go to ager of fragrance & Beauté earlier Beauté, in Paris. Beauté, for the U.K. region. She will an ivy league school, and is somewhat of a life this year. in 2015, Dagousset will be- As well, Aude Appolinaire has report to Gommichon. bible for every girl,” she said. — LISA LOCKWOOD

w13a009a;11.indd 1 9/12/13 8:04 PM 09122013200528 10 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013

eye

Lindsay Lohan at the Purple and Proenza Lou Doillon, Vinoodh Matadin and Inez van Lamsweerde at the Barneys party. Schouler party.

Karlie Kloss Pharrell in Jason Wu at Williams Crowd Noise the Interview at The ON TUESDAY NIGHT, Lou Doillon performed a low-key acoustic party. Standard, set for a crowd at the Jane Hotel to celebrate Barneys New East York’s latest ad campaign, shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Village. Matadin. Though she held her own — eliciting some serious-faced camera phone operation from Elizabeth Gilpin and Leigh Lezark in the front row and a lip-sync-along from Pamela Love — by her third song, Doillon had met the fate of many a fashion week performer before her: a chatty crowd. Sensing that a daughter of Jane Birkin might have some thoughts about how to prepare for an audience stacked with fashion folk, WWD asked about her preshow process. “Well, you think that if worse comes to worst, you can shoot yourself the next day, which is an option,” she said. Atlanta de Van Lamsweerde and Matadin smiled politely. Cadenet at Earlier in the evening, partygoers at the Urban Zen the Purple Center contended with a completely different ambience. and Proenza Dom Pérignon had taken over the space to launch the recent Schouler party. bottle design it commissioned from Jeff Koons, and gave the room a lush, Adventureland-worthy makeover via several hundred plants. The jungle-esque trappings extended to the temperatures, but there was, at least, plenty of Champagne on hand to help cool attendees down or numb them entirely. Fashion parties invariably draw a fair share of models. But that quotient was amped up later Tuesday when Interview magazine celebrated its September model-themed issue at Monarch in West Chelsea. “I’ve never felt so short or fat in my life,” one partygoer said, scanning the room, highly concentrated with waifs. A gangly FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Hanne Gaby Odiele slinked towards the back shortly upon arrival. WWD.com/eye. , and Lindsay Ellington fluttered about. , her luminous skin flush, promised to send a friend a Karlie’s Cookie before being pulled away by a handler. arrived just after midnight, wearing a blunt bob wig, and beelined for the VIP section. • • • On Wednesday, the 18th floor of the The Standard, High Line hosted not one but two bashes: Chez André at Le Bain and, across the hall, a Purple magazine and party STEVE EICHNER at the Top of the Standard. “The only thing that I’ve gone to is my friend Wendy Nichol’s Rebecca Dayan presentation, which was earlier tonight. My sister Aliana was and Genevieve in it,” Lindsay Lohan said of her week, taking in the scene on the Jones at the Boom Boom side. “I saw her, and I was like, ‘Who is that girl?’ Purple and She was wearing this amazing outfit and barely any makeup on Naomi Campbell at Proenza and I was just telling my friends, she looked so incredible. I’m so the Interview party. Schouler party. SCOTT RUDD; ALL OTHERS BY proud.” The starlet’s handlers were reportedly told to keep her away from Leonardo DiCaprio, who was said to be arriving shortly. DiCaprio, ubiquitous newsboy cap on head, slipped in just before 1 a.m., parking himself at a table overlooking the Hudson. Girlfriend soon joined DiCaprio; the two only stayed briefly before heading out. “ Yo u ever see this installation?” DiCaprio asked Garrn, tapping on the glass wall of the elevator on their way down. LEXIE MORELAND; ANTHONY BY “I see it every time I come here, but it looks different now,” she replied. (It was indeed a new work by Marco Brambilla installed that day.) “Yeah, it looks like a dancing hell, right?” he mused. Earlier that night, in the penthouse of The Standard, East Village, Pharrell Williams was celebrating a limited viewing of new sculptures by the artist Daniel Arsham that were based on the earliest keyboards Williams worked with. JIMI CELESTE; WILLIAMS BY “When I look at that I don’t remember myself. I immediately think what [their designers] must have been thinking in Japan — when they were making it and how it doesn’t matter anymore,” Williams said when asked if the pieces made him nostalgic. “I just love that in some really random, oblique way, some Carmelo Anthony and engineer in Japan has influenced the songs on the radio this Leigh Lezark at Jeff Koons at the Dom past summer,” Arsham chimed in. the Barneys party. Pérignon party. — TAYLOR HARRIS, MATTHEW LYNCH AND ERIK MAZA AND CAMPBELL PHOTOS BY KLOSS WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 13, 2013 11 WWD.COM

boutique in Via Sant’Andrea 11 in Milan accessories and watches will be big as starting Sept. 18 and completed by the well.” Idol in early August during the addition of new product categories that company’s conference call to Wall Street FASHION SCOOPS were not traditionally part of the brand. A analysts for the first quarter of fiscal year spokesman declined to elaborate on the 2014 said that the total men’s business expansion, adding that the collection will could be “north of $1 billion…over an NEW YORK-BOUND: is coming The styles range from a high heel be shown to press and retailers but not extended period of time.” to New York. The designer will stage and a mid heel to a kitten and a flat, with a fashion show or classic presentation. — VICKI M. YOUNG his “One Night Only New York” event and feature subtle yet classic designs “This store, part pop-up, part new concept on Oct. 24 and show his most recent such as mary jane pumps, simple and part work in progress is developed by CHIRP, CHIRP: Topshop is partnering Privé collection, Nude, as well as a strappy sandals and Parker’s version Pilati together with the Cologne, Germany- with Chirp, a new social media retrospective of his couture designs. of a T-strap on a style aptly called the based design studio Meiré und Meiré,” said platform, for its spring show this In June, Armani celebrated the “Carrie,” which sits lower on the ankle the spokesman. Sunday. Following the company’s revamp of his new boutique on Rome’s to help the more vertically challenged To celebrate his debut at Agnona, partnership last season with Google+, Via Condotti with a “One Night Only” customer pull off a style that tends Pilati has invited British singer Alison this time around, guests at the show event in the Italian capital and to show to shorten its wearer. Each shoe will Moyet to perform at Milan’s 15th-century and shoppers at the Oxford Street, his faith in the potential of the country. come with a design detail unique to the Palazzo Spinola on Sept. 20. — L.Z. London, flagship will be able to engage In May 2012, the designer hosted a “One brand: a stripe of grosgrain ribbon up with the brand through the Chirp app Night Only in Beijing” fete to celebrate the heel or a small tab on the side of a XOX UPDATE: Lulu Johnson, to unlock exclusive content. his fashion brand’s first decade in slip-on shoe. “My sister and I always en route to greet her mother Chirp is the first app to use China. The designer also held “One wore ribbons in our hair; we had a after her fashion show, said pitched, audible sound to share Night Only” celebrations in London in drawer full of grosgrain ribbon but not she won’t be doing another FOR MORE data, and the brand has worked SCOOPS, SEE 2006 and Tokyo in 2007. — LUISA ZARGANI any money,” said Parker. That detail season of her reality-TV with developers to create a comes to the delight series. “We did eight to 10 WWD.com. new aspect that sends users Nicole Kidman, Rooney Mara and Naomie of business partner episodes. I think it’s nice an image that, when tapped, Harris at the Calvin Klein Collection show. George Malkemus. “I to move on to other things reveals behind-the-scenes want people walking right now,” said Johnson. She activity surrounding the show, down the street to said she plans to do her own apparel including pictures of the pattern room, instantly know a line. “Something small and lingerie backstage action, the hair-and-makeup woman is wearing an influenced, camisoles and other things I test and models going down the catwalk. SJP,” he said. And at a want to wear but can’t find out there.” As a point of difference for a social reasonable price for a Those braving the heat wave to app, users must physically be in a specific “designer” shoe — $250 attend the show included Paris Hilton, place to receive the information. Show to $425 — the veteran Iggy Azalea, Natalia Kills, Nina Agdal, Melanie attendees will receive images from several shoe executive plans to Fiona and Sonja Morgan. And Betsey Johnson Chirp locations around the site, and there see a lot of that. didn’t disappoint. She performed her will be a Chirp and Twitter garden at the — ROXANNE ROBINSON signature cartwheel at the end with her flagship that shoppers can walk through to — LISA LOCKWOOD

EICHNER granddaughters. receive content. The Topshop homepage BRIGHT AND EARLY: will feature a Chirp Gallery so that the

STEVE Ralph Lauren had a trio MORE MEN’S AT KORS: At the same content can be viewed elsewhere. BY of socials in Lauren spring collection show Wednesday, Additionally, Topshop will host a live Remington Platt, Lily Kwong chief executive officer John Idol said Twitter Gallery on its homepage from the PHOTO and Elettra Wiedemann the timeline for ramping up its men’s morning of the show so that viewers can CAMP CALVIN: After most of the editors to brighten up the already meticulously business is “over the next couple of watch the final preparations. The brand and retailers had found their seats lit front row at his Thursday morning years. The company has a rippling has also asked key guests to tweet from the along the very long runway at the show at St. John’s Center Studios. None opportunity in men’s. We’re already in front row and backstage during the show. Calvin Klein Collection runway show in looked worse the wear from navigating men’s sportswear. And men’s leather — JULIA NEEL TriBeCa on Thursday, a trio of front-row the snarl of street-style shooters at the stars were ushered into place. Nicole door, which had rendered Washington Kidman, Rooney Mara and Naomie Harris all Street a traffic cop’s worst nightmare. took their spots for perfunctory camera Farther down the row, past the Family time, though a few security guards made Lauren seats, was Jessica Alba, looking speaking to the three a tall order. Holly Golightly in a pink tulle skirt, black — MATTHEW LYNCH knit sweater and updo. The actress has become something of a WHO’S THAT GIRL: Madonna regular at the designer’s may have been absent shows lately. “I just think from New York Fashion we go well together,” she Week but she got some explained. “I love the partying in with the style family. They’re so sweet. small space set at the birthday bash for I really respect what he’s set designer Jack Flanagan built, where he’s come on Wednesday. Thomas from and he’s really tight Hayo hosted the late-night with his family. His kids blowout in his Bowery are amazing; I’m a fan of apartment and rooftop Dylan’s Candy Bar.” Jelena deck, where Madonna made Ristic, girlfriend of U.S. herself at home and danced Open runner-up Novak with makeup artist Pat Djokovic, rounded out the McGrath. Making the scene front-row notables. — M.L. were Alexander Skarsgård, Amber Valletta, , NAIL ART: Henry Holland is Frankie Rayder, Caroline nailing it at retail. The

Winberg, Alek Wek and Sky EICHNER British fashion designer Ferreira. The birthday boy is a has collaborated with top set designer for fashion Jelena STEVE false-nail specialist advertising campaigns and Ristic BY Elegant Touch on a editorial shoots and also PHOTO collection of fake nails, Big worked with Madonna on which includes the parts of her MDNA tour. — DAVID LIPKE styles Geek Chic, featuring suspenders and calculators; Polka Dot-It, with THE SJP SHOE: “Trust in the simple,” black-and-white polka dots; and Zig explained actress turned shoe designer Zag Stardust, with neon zigzag designs. Sarah Jessica Parker as she introduced her “I’m super happy with the range and Business collection to editors for the first time, think that it brings a touch of House Thursday at the St. Regis Hotel. “I was so of Holland to everyone’s fingertips — happy to support the single-sole shoe again.” literally! The designs are bold, playful The SJP shoe line, which was revealed and create an individual look at a great WWD Marketplace is the premier destination in June, was shown for the first time attainable price,” said Holland. Priced Wednesday to exclusive retail partner at $7.99, the fake nails are launching Nordstrom, which bought the collection at Ulta and ulta.com. Each box comes for the industry’s classified and career listings. sight unseen. Reportedly, the retailer with 24 nails in 10 sizes, nail glue, a couldn’t have been happier, as the well- nail file and an instruction leaflet with thought-out line of 40 stockkeeping units application tips. — RACHEL BROWN had plenty to offer. “I think color can be a neutral,” said Parker, who boasted PILATI’S DEBUT: Stefano Pilati is making 800.423.3314 of custom colors with names such as sweeping changes at Agnona. The asparagus, cherry, dove gray and her designer will unveil his first looks for version of navy, which is more of a French the brand next week as a seasonless navy. “People always have to ask their collection and available for purchase wwd.com/marketplace friends and husbands, ‘Is this navy or on the spot. The first collection, named black?’ I want it to be clear.” #0, will be presented at Agnona’s new