The Gentleman's MEASUREMENT AND STYLE GUIDE FOR YOUR NEXT CUSTOM SUIT The Gentleman’s Measurement and Style Guide for Your Next Custom Suit Bespoke suits are the benchmark of a gentleman’s wardrobe. The practice of made-to-order clothing spans back centuries when fabric was to “be spoken for,” hence the name ‘bespoke’. Celebrities, rock stars, academic geniuses, and world leaders have all graced the tailor’s stand in pursuit of elite business attire. The opportunity to secure your own custom suit is more affordable than ever with less popular interest in dressing to the nines since the days of the caveman. A custom suit is a walking billboard of sex appeal and business power. It tells the fairer sex that we have exceptional taste to match our handsome looks. It telegraphs our influence to clients and prospects. Showing up in a custom suit automatically places you head-and-shoulders above the off-the-rack crowd hoping for an ideal fit. Regular guys buy off-the-rack suits. Not you though because you’re not a regular guy. Whether you’re a financial advisor looking at two decades of experience or a young executive surging up the corporate ladder, your next custom suit needs to tell the world you mean business. The first step in purchasing a custom suit is to schedule your fitting appointment. Prepare for an hour to conduct a complete fitting with measurements, fabric selections, and discussion through each of the customized details. Click here to schedule your next appointment The next part is to prepare for a life-changing experience at the hands of a tailor. The Gentleman’s Measurement and Style Guide is designed to prepare you for your fitting appointment at Savile Row. Use this resource as a guide book to ensure you are informed and intentional with making one of the best investments of your life. 2 what to wear for your will want to know before stepping onto the - The natural decline of grade from FITTING APPOINTMENT magician’s platform: your shoulder. An average man’s physique is lighter, softer, and designed for more special After scheduling your appointment, you Suit cloth can be often classified into four need to know how to dress to meet your men tend to have a flatter slope due to the - Originated from a Scottish tailor. Wear a nice-fitting dress shirt and purchasing a business suit, do not stray from valley, the Glenurquhart Plaid pattern, or slacks over an undershirt and underwear or (‘traps’) and rotator cuffs. Glen Plaid as it’s more commonly known, is boxers. It should go without saying but avoid wearing jeans or shorts, even if they’re salmon-colored (you know who you are). Be sure to empty your pockets at the fitting appointment so no unsightly bulges malign - Pinstripes are created by weaving a the final fit. difference in fabric types is as diverse as any Expect between 15-40 different Balance - The adjustment of your suit jacket measurements and maybe accompanying needs to be properly balanced between the selections for bespoke suits typically classify photographs so the tailor can document the front and the back to match your posture perfect fit. If you have questions or concerns and physique. throughout the process, now is the time to Break - The part of your lower trouser leg expression them to your tailor. Since your that is a small dimple at the top of your tailor is an artist, please respect their space shoe. Break variations are dependent on the staple of the business office. Lighter greys by staying off your mobile during your body shape and context for which your suit fitting appointment. It’s very difficult to ask is intended. questions or take direction from your tailor Interlining - An additional piece of fabric if you’re distracted by a handheld screen. sewed between the lining of the garment somewhat resembles a fish’s skeleton, hence and the outer material. Interlining is used to your clothier is a suit whisperer provide bulk or warmth for the wearer. RESPECT THEIR ARTISTRY Notch, Peak, and Shawl Lapel - These are the three most common types of lapel styles on When you step into Savile Row, you’re suit coats. A medium-width Notch lapel is entering an artist’s workspace. An the most versatile and timeless style. Peak is experienced clothier is a master artisan at - Polyester is usually combined with more of an elongated lapel style that gives requires the same personality to wear crafting super fine woolens, tweeds, cottons, the appearance of the wearer being taller and their closet companions into shells of a durable and affordable selection, but you and broader in their shoulders. The Shawl business art. Your job as the living display lapel carries a continually rounded stand for their artistry is to give them the appearance, a look more reserved for appropriate direction. smoking jackets and tuxedos. Here are a few of the select terms that you turned from good to ‘wow’ by picking the 3 Slope - The natural decline of grade from expensive. A higher-worsted wool is twisted the base of your neck to the tipping end of around 150-180 times, which makes them your shoulder. An average man’s physique is lighter, softer, and designed for more special After scheduling your appointment, you more of a gradual slope. More muscular occasions. Suit cloth can be often classified into four men tend to have a flatter slope due to the - Originated from a Scottish tailor. Wear a nice-fitting dress shirt and increased size of their trapezius muscles purchasing a business suit, do not stray from valley, the Glenurquhart Plaid pattern, or (‘traps’) and rotator cuffs. FABRIC OPTIONS Glen Plaid as it’s more commonly known, is Vent - The small slits at the base of the backend of a suit coat. A European cut has of custom suits no vents, which makes for a slimming sure to empty your pockets at the fitting appearance when standing. If you put your What type of fabric would you like to choose for your next custom suit? The - Pinstripes are created by weaving a the final fit. difference in fabric types is as diverse as any Expect between 15-40 different choice in life so choose wisely. Fabric selections for bespoke suits typically classify front and the back to match your posture into four standard fabric families: perfect fit. If you have questions or concerns and physique. Wool - Used as an all-seasons fabric that is extremely durable, versatile, comfortable, and crease-resistant. Worsted, tweed, and cashmere are popular types of wool fabric. staple of the business office. Lighter greys by staying off your mobile during your fitting appointment. It’s very difficult to ask Cotton - Seersucker is a type of cotton fabric hands in your pockets though, it can cause questions or take direction from your tailor that is sometimes used for bespoke suits. the no-vent suit coat to crumple. A Linen - If you want a suit to wear strictly single-vent coat has a solitary vent in the during the summer, you may want to start somewhat resembles a fish’s skeleton, hence exact middle of the base of the coat. It’s a with a linen suit. It’s breathable, lightweight, classic, comfortable look that is arguably the and absorbs moisture well. Linen is also most popular. Double-vent suit coats are a highly susceptible to creasing, so prepare for very English look and are the most popular a suit that demands more maintenance. suit coats. A medium-width Notch lapel is vent selection of bespoke suits because of the most versatile and timeless style. Peak is how well it folds over your lower backside Polyester - Polyester is usually combined with requires the same personality to wear crafting super fine woolens, tweeds, cottons, and hips. other synthetic fabric materials that make for a durable and affordable selection, but you Worsted - refers to the number of times that didn’t come to Savile Row to be cheap. wool has been twisted. A wool that has been Beware when choosing a polyester fabric. worsted around 100-130 times is more of an everyday wool. Lower-worsted wools are turned from good to ‘wow’ by picking the more durable, warmer, heavier, and less 4 - The natural decline of grade from POPULAR COLOR OPTIONS perfect pattern. However, the rule of thumb is that a patterned suit should not be worn your shoulder. An average man’s physique is lighter, softer, and designed for more special of custom suits in a formal setting. Choose a pattern with After scheduling your appointment, you Suit cloth can be often classified into four discretion. men tend to have a flatter slope due to the popular color selections. If you’re Glen Plaid - Originated from a Scottish tailor. Wear a nice-fitting dress shirt and purchasing a business suit, do not stray from valley, the Glenurquhart Plaid pattern, or (‘traps’) and rotator cuffs. these main color classes: Glen Plaid as it’s more commonly known, is Navy - Arguably the most popular business a staple of the British royal family. It is the suit that carries a classic look. The versatility most popular pattern used in bespoke suits sure to empty your pockets at the fitting of a navy blue suit is how well it pairs with if a pattern is chosen. a myriad of accent colors for shirt and tie Stripes - Pinstripes are created by weaving a combinations. the final fit. difference in fabric types is as diverse as any thin line of pin-sized dots into the suit Expect between 15-40 different Black - Reserved for more formal occasions, cloth.