Traditional Herbal Medicines for Modern Times Herbal Principles in Cosmetics Properties and Mechanisms of Action Traditional Herbal Medicines for Modern Times Each volume in this series provides academia, health sciences, and the herbal medicines industry with in-depth coverage of the herbal remedies for infectious diseases, certain medical conditions, or the plant medicines of a particular country. Series Editor: Dr. Roland Hardman Volume 1 Shengmai San, edited by Kam-Ming Ko Volume 2 Rasayana: Ayurvedic Herbs for Rejuvenation and Longevity, by H.S. Puri Volume 3 Sho-Saiko-To: (Xiao-Chai-Hu-Tang) Scientific Evaluation and Clinical Applications, by Yukio Ogihara and Masaki Aburada Volume 4 Traditional Medicinal Plants and Malaria, edited by Merlin Willcox, Gerard Bodeker, and Philippe Rasoanaivo Volume 5 Juzen-taiho-to (Shi-Quan-Da-Bu-Tang): Scientific Evaluation and Clinical Applications, edited by Haruki Yamada and Ikuo Saiki Volume 6 Traditional Medicines for Modern Times: Antidiabetic Plants, edited by Amala Soumyanath Volume 7 Bupleurum Species: Scientific Evaluation and Clinical Applications, edited by Sheng-Li Pan Traditional Herbal Medicines for Modern Times Herbal Principles in Cosmetics Properties and Mechanisms of Action Bruno Burlando, Luisella Verotta, Laura Cornara, and Elisa Bottini-Massa Cover art design by Carlo Del Vecchio. 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Visit the Taylor & Francis Web site at http://www.taylorandfrancis.com and the CRC Press Web site at http://www.crcpress.com Contents Series Preface .........................................................................................................xvii Foreword .................................................................................................................xxi Introduction .......................................................................................................... xxiii The Authors .........................................................................................................xxvii 1Chapter 1Chapter The Skin: Morphophysiological Traits and Disease ............................1 Epidermis .............................................................................................2 Dermal and Subdermal Tissue .............................................................3 Cutaneous Annexes ..............................................................................4 Skin Disorders ......................................................................................4 References ............................................................................................7 2Chapter 2Chapter Botanical Compounds and Their Dermatologic and Cosmetic Uses ......................................................................................9 Lipids ....................................................................................................9 Terpenoids .......................................................................................... 11 Phenols and Related Compounds ....................................................... 16 Flavonoids ..........................................................................................20 Alkaloids ............................................................................................22 Carbohydrates.....................................................................................23 Glycosides ..........................................................................................24 Hydroxy Acids ....................................................................................25 References ..........................................................................................26 3Chapter 3Chapter Herbal Cosmetic Formulations: A Fuzzy Line between Actives and Vehicles .......................................................................................29 Formulations and Skin Penetration ....................................................29 Vehicles ..............................................................................................30 Surfactants ..........................................................................................32 Thickening Agents ............................................................................. 33 Penetration Enhancers ........................................................................34 Preservatives ....................................................................................... 35 Noxious Side Effects of Topical Formulations ...................................36 Conclusive Remarks ...........................................................................38 References ..........................................................................................38 v vi Contents 4Chapter 4Chapter Monographs of Herbal Principles ...................................................... 41 References .......................................................................................... 41 Abyssinian Kale .................................................................................42 Features .........................................................................................42 Constituents ...................................................................................42 Properties .......................................................................................42 Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use ................................................... 43 Side Effects and Toxicity ............................................................... 43 References .......................................................................................... 43 Açai Palm ...........................................................................................45 Features .........................................................................................45 Constituents and Properties ...........................................................46 Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use ...................................................46 Side Effects and Toxicity ...............................................................46 References .......................................................................................... 47 Acerola ...............................................................................................48 Features .........................................................................................48 Constituents ...................................................................................48 Properties .......................................................................................49 Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use ...................................................49 Side Effects and Toxicity ...............................................................49 References ..........................................................................................50 Almond ............................................................................................... 52 Features ......................................................................................... 52 Constituents ................................................................................... 53 Properties ....................................................................................... 53 Dermatologic and Cosmetic Use ................................................... 53 Side Effects and Toxicity ...............................................................54 References ..........................................................................................54