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Revell Frequently Asked Questions

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Revell Frequently Asked Questions Revell Frequently Asked Questions Revell has gathered these Frequently Asked/Answered Questions. The questions and their answers cover all aspects of Model Building, our products and consumer service. Topics: 1. Basic Assembly 2. Glue & Cement: Types, Technique, and Troubleshooting 3. Paint: Colors, Technique, and Troubleshooting 4. Decals: Types & Application 5. Advanced Techniques 6. Customer Service/Replacement Parts 7. General Information 1. Basic Assembly How do I get the parts off the runners? It's best to remove the parts from the trees or sprue by cutting them off. Do this by cutting the part off as close as possible to the surface of the part so there is no excess plastic on the part from the tree. Most modelers use a hobby knife or sprue cutter (which you can find at most hobby shops). We do not recommend twisting the parts off because this can cause breakage, especially with thin or fragile parts. Why do a few parts in my kit have rough edges? Plastic injection molded model kit parts will sometimes have a rough edge or "mold line" on the part as a result of the manufacturing process. These can be removed by sanding the edge off the part with a small file, emery board, or sandpaper. Do this prior to painting your parts for a more realistic and professional appearance. Use a light touch as styrene plastic is soft and will easily sand. What if I have a couple of extra parts left that are not called for on the instructions? Since many times a basic mold will be used to produce more than one version of a model subject, you may find a few extra parts still on the trees that were not called for in the instruction sheet in your kit. This is not uncommon and these parts can be discarded. Why do models sometimes look different on the box than what's in the kit? Although we try to make sure that the box art represents the actual model kit, in some instances there may be small variations in what is shown. Sometimes, the hand-made master model is used for the box art photo because the actual kit production hasn't been completed. Or, the producer of the actual prototype may make changes after the model tooling is committed for production. In either case, the differences will be subtle and will not affect the overall model kit subject. Is it better to paint the model before or after it's built? Generally, you will have better results by painting your model before assembling it. An exception is to first glue together small parts of an assembly if they will all be the same color and painting it as a unit. I am a first-time model maker and am having difficulty removing the decals from the page to apply to model. Do you have any suggestions for application? Decals should be dipped in lukewarm water for only a moment and then set on a paper towel to let the water soak in and dissolve the adhesive that holds the decal on the paper. The decal will curl up, and then unroll after a short time. At this point the decals should be able to be moved around on the backing paper and slid into location on the model. Once in place they can be dabbed with the tip of a paper towel or tissue to soak up excessive water. Page 1 of 8 Revell Inc.• www.revell.com • [email protected] • © 1995-2017 Revell Inc. A subsidiary of Hobbico, Inc. Revell Frequently Asked Questions 2. Glue & Cement: Types, Technique, and Troubleshooting What type of glue or cement should I use? Generally, most any glue or cement that is suitable for use on plastic can be used on your Revell model kit. Tube glues, such as Testors and Ambroid are the most commonly found and have a gel-like consistency. These are also made in a non-toxic formula to reduce some of the odors. Use these sparingly in order to avoid the glue oozing out from the parts being joined. When using tube type glues you may want to squeeze out a small amount onto a scrap piece of paper or cardboard and apply a small amount to the kit part using a toothpick to control how much glue you are applying. Many builders like to use a liquid cement such as Testors, Tenax, or Pro-Weld, among others. Liquid cements can be applied using a small paint brush and can give you a nice, clean glue joint. Dip the brush in thinner from time to time to clean. Other glue types frequently used are five minute epoxy, which is best used when you need a really strong bond for major structural parts of the kit, or "CA" glue, which is also commonly called super glue. CA is short for cyanoacrylate. Keep in mind that you do NOT want to use CA or super glues with clear or transparent parts as it will fog up the part. Remember to always want to use any glue or cement in a well-ventilated area and to keep some nail polish remover nearby in case you glue your fingers together. Why won't the glue always stick to the part after I've painted it? Glues and cements will not always adhere to a painted surface because they were designed for use on plastic. It's always best to scrape away a small amount of paint from the surface of a part where you will apply the glue. This allows the glue to bond better. I'm having a problem with the cement I'm using. The model pieces seem to come apart after a while. There are a variety of brands of cement on the market that are made especially for styrene plastic. Different modelers have different preferences of what they like to use. To get the best bond from the cement you use, we suggest scraping the plating or paint where the parts meet to get the best bond. You may want to try changing brands of cement or using super glue or epoxy to see if that makes a difference. Will superglue work on a model? Most super glues will work on styrene plastic, but if you're not an experienced modeler your best bet is probably to stick with the more common tube or liquid glue for plastics. There are a wide variety of superglues available ranging from water thin to gel and drying times from instant to slow setting. I accidentally got a finger print of paint or glue on my windshield. How can I get it off without ruining it? If you only have a little bit of glue or paint on your glass, you may be able to get it off just by rubbing with a soft cloth. If you have any more, you may have to use more drastic measures like using a very fine rubbing compound ,such as white toothpaste. You can also use a superfine polishing kit. If you wind up with a slight fog on the glass, you can usually eliminate it by using model wax, clear enamel or liquid acrylic floor wax. If the glue is embedded too deeply, your only choice is to replace the glass. 3. Paint: Colors, Technique, and Troubleshooting What type of paint is best to use? There are dozens of different paints sold in hobby and craft stores, hardware stores, and chain stores. We generally suggest that you try to stay with paint made specifically for plastic models. Most hobby paints will be either: Enamel, which you will need to use paint thinner or turpentine to clean your brushes and equipment, or Acrylic, which is water based so water will clean brushes and equipment. You must clean the unpainted plastic parts prior to painting because paint may not adhere to the parts otherwise. This will remove the oily mold release spray that is added during manufacturing. To clean, put a few drops of a liquid dish or hand soap on an old toothbrush and give the parts a quick scrubbing. Let the parts air dry. Page 2 of 8 Revell Inc.• www.revell.com • [email protected] • © 1995-2017 Revell Inc. A subsidiary of Hobbico, Inc. Revell Frequently Asked Questions Many modelers like to use spray paints for the largest parts of their model, such as car bodies or aircraft fuselages because sprays will provide a better finish. Usually smaller detail parts are painted with a brush using bottled paints. Some general guidelines when using sprays are: Use a coat of primer before spraying on your paint. Some paints may "craze" or attack the plastic surface depending on the paint's ingredients. Don't attempt to cover the part with one coat of paint. You want to spray several very light coats to build up the coverage. Paint coats that are too heavy cause runs and loss of engraved detail. Follow the directions on the can, but generally you'll want to wait 15-20 minutes between paint coats. It's best to stick with the same manufacturer for the different types of paints you use on the same model (primer, color and clear, if you use a clear coat). Putting one manufacturer's paints over another may cause them to react with each other. Let the paint dry completely before handling or trying to polish out the paint. Although it may seem dry on the surface, a good way to tell if the paint is fully cured is to hold the model up to your nose, if you can still smell the paint, it's probably not dry yet.
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