TextAlphonse and photos Atoll by Brandi Mueller — Pristine Diving in the ' Outer Islands

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There is just something that As we flew away from Mahé, a beautiful always feels right about getting granitic island in its own right, it took about an hour to fly 400km (250 miles) south- on a small airplane for the final west over blue seas before we began leg of travel to begin a dive trip. to descend on a small coral atoll, just a In my mind, it almost guarantees speck of palm trees and sand that steadily the destination is somewhere got larger as we approached. I watched out the open cockpit windows as the amazing—a place that is so spe- pilots took us straight in, onto a clear-cut Grouper, lionfish and anthias on coral reef cial that the large jets used in runway in the center of the island. My mass transit cannot even get to spontaneous grinning continued. life painting showed the shallow depths it. I departed the island of Mahé, Below was a small section of the of the lagoons lightening to turquoise Seychelles’ outer islands, the Alphonse and surrounded by white sand and green the largest and most-populated group. It consisted of Alphonse and St. palm trees. I could not help but think, island in the Seychelles, for the François atolls. The deep water surround- “Our planet is so gorgeous.” tiny island of Alphonse, with that ing the atolls was a shadowy, dark navy, but the green and ivory specks of the Arrival giddy, childlike feeling in which I islands were encircled by what I would I was still smiling like a kid on Christmas could not stop grinning. I looked like to call Seychelles’ blue—an abstract when our plane landed on the island, around at my fellow passengers watercolor painting of every shade of which was just 1.8km long by 1.4km wide also destined for Alphonse, and I blue imaginable, from the lightest pale (1.12mi by 0.87mi), and out the window Divers on a wall with sea fans (above), with a blue to sapphire and indigo, with brush was a line of resort staff waving to us. school of snapper (top left), and with a blue- could see them smiling too. strokes of jade and light brown. The real- We disembarked and were greeted with had an incredible fin trevally over sea fans (previous page) number of sea turtles on all the dives.

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The resort's pool (above) and bar area (left), which was a meeting place to discuss diving and fishing tales before dinner each night

is known and bike tours, a lovely spa, and coconut and some information to have plenty of other activities to keep about the island. Other guests some of anyone busy. included a lovely family with two the best fly- small girls from Botswana and fishing flats Getting around a South African fishing TV show on earth. Taken in a golf cart to my lux- crew. (Well, I guess the fishing Obsessive ury bungalow with beachfront really is that good.) fishermen access, I learned that this was I ventured over to the activity (whom I one of the fastest modes of trans- and dive center where my gear found to be portation on the island. Sitting had already been delivered and comparable in front of my adorable A-frame made plans for the next day. I to obsessive bungalow was my personal trans- would be diving, of course… and introductions and smiles (big divers) travel halfway around the portation for the week—a beach the only one. (Seriously? I thought, smiles, but probably not as big world to throw a fly at tarpon, cruiser bike with a basket (in lime who goes to pristine islands in the as mine.) I was about to spend bonefish, milkfish and giant treval- green) with my name on it. I do middle of the Indian Ocean and a week on an isolated island in ly, among others (it’s catch-and- not know if it was possible for my does not dive?!?! Answer: fisher- the middle of the Indian Ocean release only here). The Alphonse smile to get any bigger, but it did. men). I would find myself revisiting visited by only a small number of Resort was initially just a fishing I loved this place already. this question in my mind through- people each year. And honestly, lodge, but now has a full range Biking over to the restaurant out the week, only to discover it most visitors come to fish, not of activities, including diving, and main bar area (also ocean- was exactly what the fishermen dive. (Crazy, I know!) snorkeling, kayaking, stand-up front), I joined the rest of the (and fisherwomen) were saying The of islands paddle boarding, nature walks guests who had arrived for a fresh about me. My charming bungalow home for the week (top); The bungalow's airy interior (middle) and cozy deck (bottom), overlooking palm trees and the sea just beyond

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Trevally swim over sea fans (far left); Endemic Seychelles anemonefish (top center); Bumphead parrot- fish at Car Wash (above); Cleaner wrasse give a fish a cleaning (right); The resort's dive boat (left)

a golf cart to pick up my (large) camera while I was at breakfast (it was too big to manage on my bike), and it also magically appeared on the boat waiting for me. Once I was ready, the boat Morning bliss headed out to a site called Car After waking up natu- Wash. The fishermen had all left rally by the golden light of much earlier and the boat ride felt dawn streaming through like we were heading out on an my curtains, I made a adventure into the unknown, with cup of coffee in my room no other boats or people around. and strolled out to the beach in front of having ridden my bike only a few min- It was not unknown to the crew though, my bungalow. While the other bungalows utes before arriving, and enjoyed more who gave an impressively accurate dive were not too far away, the gardening and coffee, along with yogurt with fresh fruit briefing of the site, even down to where landscaping made it feel as if I was the and a croissant and muffin. More hardy we would see schools of certain fish. lent. As briefed, groups of bluefin trevally only person on a private island. Looking options were available as well, such as Once underwater, it felt just as adven- swam past us. As we passed a school out at the water, I saw several turtles pop eggs made to order and other hot items. turous—there would be no hordes of of bluestripe snapper, Rose pointed out their heads above the surface for a breath other divers here, and no risk of another endemic Seychelles anemonefish, and and then disappear back underwater, but Diving boat dropping a dozen tourists on top of there were massive pink gorgonian sea I could still make out their silhouettes in the Over at the dive center, my gear was us. It was just me and my guide, Rose, for fans everywhere. The big surprise (not in clear, shallow water in front of me. already on the boat and my wetsuit fold- hundreds of miles. How incredibly cool the briefing) was a group of about eight I leisurely made my way to breakfast, ed and waiting for me. They had also sent was that? And—the diving was excel- massive bumphead parrotfish. Not bad Endemic Seychelles anemonefish

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for the check-out dive. Currents and visibility are influenced by the tides, so to get the best condi- tions, the dive team suggested we dive once in the morning, take a long break, and then two dives later in the day. I was traveling alone, and somewhere along the line prior to arriving, I had mentioned it would be great to have a dive model. Just to start to describe how accommo- dating the staff was, they provided me with a dive model. On my next two dives, I had a dive guide and a dive model (and a quite good model at that). We visited the dive sites known as Abyss and Arcade, and my model posed with more schools of bluestripe snapper and yellowspot emperors. We swam over an old anchor that probably belonged to a ship that long ago hit the reef. A large school of barracuda passed by and friendly batfish followed us around like curious puppies, particularly on our safety stops where they seemed to hover right along with us until we returned to the surface. After diving and a warm shower (in my Divers swim through a school of yellowspot emperors; Batfish (top center); School of bluestripe snapper (top right)

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Hammock on the beach (above); One of the baby tor- toises (right) born on the island and raised in tortoise pens. When they grow bigger and their shells harden, they are released and can roam free.

lovely outdoor shower), I headed rock and I did a double to the communal meeting point take. Backpedaling on the (the oceanfront bar) where the brakes of my cruiser bike, fishermen were telling tales of I stopped, slowly backed their bonefish and giant trevally up, and to my right, was a catches. Soon after, I enjoyed a giant tortoise—on the side Aldabra are related to a species fantastic dinner under the stars of the bike path! from Madagascar. Giant tortoises before heading to sleep, with the Thinking nothing of the tourist can live longer than 150 years, sound of waves playing a natural gaping at it, the tortoise continued with some in captivity confirmed soundtrack off in the distance. to munch on grass. The Aldabra to be living over 200. Over 152,000 giant tortoise (Aldabrachelys tortoises are thought to live in the Island life gigantea) is one of only two giant Aldabra Atoll, which is a protected I very quickly fell into a rhythm tortoise species left in existence, World Heritage Site. of waking up, making coffee the other being the Galapagos While other islands’ tortoise to be sipped on the beach or giant tortoise. While these two spe- populations were decimated long on my patio, slowly making my cies are the last giant tortoise spe- ago by sailors who brought them way to breakfast and then rid- cies on earth, they are not directly on ships to be kept for food and ing my bike to the dive center. related. The Galapagos are most by habitat loss and destruction, Aldabra giant tortoise (above); Sunrise at Alphonse (top left); I was riding along, feeling ever closely related to a tortoise species some Aldabra tortoises survived Pesto pasta for lunch—many of the ingredients were grown on so relaxed, when I rode past a hailing from South America. The on Aldabra Atoll. Today, they the island—and an ice cream sundae for dessert (top center) While riding down the road, there was a giant tortoise!

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A nalolo blenny smiles out from its tiny hole (left); Anthias pile into a hole with a moray eel (far left); Moray eel being cleaned by a cleaner shrimp (right)

Porcelain crab in an anemone (left); Yaeyama blenny (above left); Bluestriped fangblenny (above right)

dering about and their shells harden, they are set free Back on the dive boat cleaned, porcelain crabs in anemones their enclosure. I to roam the island. After all my excitement, we were soon along with the endemic Seychelles are being reintroduced to several outer learned later that all the babies in the pen Still in awe of my first giant-tortoise back on the boat (with my camera mys- anemonefish, and blennies, blennies islands, including Alphonse, which now were born on Alphonse and were usually sighting, I excitedly told my story to the teriously picked up from my patio once and more blennies. has around 60 tortoises roaming the found by the gardeners around the island. dive team who clearly were used to again and appearing on the boat when I also tried to get a few shots of a island. Keeping them in the pen offered protec- such tales, and one even replied that I got there). The staff had suggested behavior I had noticed the day before. Also on the island was a “tortoise pen,” tion because their shells are quite soft there was a tortoise that liked to live visibility might be a little low due to the Swarms of anthias buzzed around the in which little baby tortoises of different when they are very small, making them near her house on the island and was tide, so I had my macro lens on my reefs, and as I got close, they would sizes were kept. I passed the pen daily easy prey for birds, which are returning usually sitting right where she liked to camera, ready to capture some of the (as usual) hide in the crevasses of the on my way to the dive center. Adorable to the island, as well as invasive rats and park her bike. (Can I make a hashtag— small stuff around Alphonse. Needless to reef… but I noticed they were going into toy-sized giant tortoises could be seen cats, which island staff are actively trying #AlphonseIslandProblems?) say, I was not disappointed. Hardly mov- holes occupied by moray eels. I had chomping on leaves and slowly wan- to eradicate. Once the tortoises get larger ing at all underwater, I saw eels being never before seen this symbiotic rela-

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When Alphonse Island was still a travel plantation, in an effort to improve the working conditions and over- all state of the outer islands, the Islands Development Company (IDC) took charge of Alphonse and most of the outer islands in the early 1980s. They worked to improve conditions and produc- tion, and began to build hotels and resorts for tourism on the outer islands. Currently, the IDC aims to make the outer islands profitable in an environmentally-sustainable man- ner. They own and operate planes to provide charters to the outer islands and manage electricity, water treatment facilities and infrastructure. They also provide many jobs for the people of the Seychelles and beyond. The IDC recognized early on that the outer islands and their natural environments were special tionship in which dozens of pink, purple and should have an economic and orange anthias would crowd into value, such as ecotourism. The IDC a hole, sometimes even touching an has an agreement to be advised eel which seemed to stand guard. The by the Island Conservation Society eels seemed to get upset with me and (ICS) in the best ways to protect would quickly charge out and back into the environments of the outer the hole when I came too close while islands. The ICS has conservation taking a photo, as if they were protect- centers on Alphonse and several ing their anthias. other islands, and they monitor the In the afternoon, we dived Boiler and rest of the IDC islands. Eagle Nest, and I had not one, but two The amount of conservation amazing dive models: Chris, who worked projects in which the ICS partici- at the activities and dive center, and his is one of the groups pates is really incredible. I heard partner, Jenn, the absolutely phenom- helping to protect and stories about baited remote enal pastry chef on island (for real, I am restore the natural envi- underwater cameras monitor- still daydreaming about her beetroot ronments and advise ing shark and ray presence and panna cotta). Boiler was a forest of giant on new projects tak- movement. They have a doc- sea fans. They grew so tightly packed ing place on the outer toral student from the University together that their shapes were altered islands. of Massachusetts studying giant by the other sea fans growing into them. trevallies and helping to imple- Schools of fusiliers would whirl by, and on on and around the island. They moni- The perfect day ment catch-and-release fishing close inspection, the sea fans had long- tor the island’s seabird populations, and As the sun set on my third day at practices that cause the least nose hawkfish and gobies living within. green and hawksbill turtle nesting; they Alphonse, I sipped a perfect gin and amount of harm to the fish. They In the evening, there was a presenta- also conduct coral reef surveys and have tonic while watching the sky turn pink monitor the corals and sea turtles, tion given by the resident staff of the many other projects. It was amazing to and reflected on what makes diving tortoises, birds and so much more. Island Conservation Society (ICS), a hear about their conservation projects on “good” at a certain location. There are They also advise on future chang- Seychelles non-governmental organiza- Alphonse and several other outer islands. some places and specific times where es to the island, including how tion. Several staff members live on the The Seychelles has over 50 percent of its we go to see a certain animal or behav- Goby on a gorgonian sea fan (above); Snapper with to add buildings with the least gorgeous sea fans on a wall (top right); Longnose hawk- island year-round and conduct research land under nature conservation, and this ior: sharks, manta rays or coral spawning, impact.  fish (left); Unlikely roommates: anthias and eels (top left)

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Summer Special includes 50% off diving

Lucy poses with a trevally (above); Nurse sharks sleep under a ledge with blackbar soldierfish (left); Eagle ray in the blue (lower left)

of marine life face, passing right by us. As one returned below was from taking a breath of air, it swam back 7 nights/6 dive days stunning. A down, passing right between Lucy and me. from $1405 per diver huge school Under rock overhangs, there were numer- Travel in Sept & Oct 2019 - Book by Sept 30, 2019 Pinnacles, which several of chubs lingered just below the surface, ous tawny nurse sharks. staff had mentioned as their and closer to the sandy bottom were mas- It was nonstop action, with a turtle here favorite. sive schools of bluestripe snappers and yel- and a shark there. Lucy had lined up behind lowspot emperors, filling the gaps between a school of blackbar soldierfish for a photo Pinnacles several rock pinnacles. when right behind her emerged an eagle The boat dropped us off As we got closer to the coral-covered ray. At another point in the dive, she swam at the edge of the island pinnacles, a few sea turtles swam from their through a space between two pinnacles where the current was flow- sitting positions on the coral up to the sur- and several bluefin trevallies swam right in Interested in Group Travel? ing directly towards land and PRE-DEMA Specials wrapping around it in both are now available directions. As we descended into clear water, the amount

etc. But there are so many places we visit just because the diving is “good,” having pretty reefs, lots of fish, maybe a turtle or an eagle ray sighting. I thought back on dive trips that were “good” in which I only saw maybe a turtle or two, or one ray, and Call now to reserve a few sharks. This day felt like it was all of the “good” 1 800U S8A &5 Can4ada 4767 diving most people experience in a life- time—but jam-packed into one day. I [email protected] took another sip and tried to remember www.sunsethouse.com what we had all seen. I was, for the third day in a row, the only diver. My guide was 1 345 949 7111 Lucy, one of the dive center’s managers, Direct and she also agreed to be my model for Mention Promo Code XRAY the day. Our first dive was at a site called Lucy takes a look at a sleeping nurse shark (above); Curious hawksbill sea turtle (left)

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to snap photos, I on this remote, isolated island, upon which started to wonder so few people ever step foot, devouring how many photos of BBQ chicken pitas and some of the best giant pink sea fans brownies I have ever tasted. was too many. Soon, we were back on the boat, about Lunch was a to dive a site called Hacksaw. Lucy back bit different on rolled into the water first, and she came this day; all of the back up and yelled “Silvertip!” I looked at resort guests met our boat captain and wondered if that on an area of shal- was a “get-in-the-water-right-now” sort low sandflats at of silvertip call or a “stay-on-the-boat, low tide for a BBQ- style lunch. Chairs and umbrellas for shade were set out as we ate together front of her. A sweetlips, posing perfectly discussing the diving (and the fishing). for the camera, seemed to get closer and One boat of guests had gone snorke- closer, and we even had a giant trevally ling, including the two youngest guests, swim very close at the end of the dive. Megan and Taylor. They told me about Back on the boat, we motored over the dolphins they saw on the way (I had to the next dive site, but did not get far seen them too), the turtles they swam before we were surrounded by spinner with, and how they spent the morning dolphins. I asked if I could jump in and collecting trash on the beach for an art moments later, I was encircled by dolphins project. I was very excited to see this art only for a moment before they swam off. project when it was finished. Back on the boat, we started moving It was pretty fantastic to be on an again and they were back. Once again I exposed bit of sand, which is usually jumped in, only to see them for a few sec- covered with water, and having lunch. onds before they took off again. Once again, I was surrounded by that jaw-dropping “Seychelles’ blue,” with the Napoleon and Hacksaw water changing shades of blue from dark All the guests at Alphonse met on a sand flat at low tide and had a fantastic BBQ lunch as Our next dive site, Napoleon, was a swirl to light, concluding its spectrum with the the tide started to rise (above); Spinner dolphins encountered while snorkeling (top left); of sea fans and fish, and as I continued white sand. It reminded me that we were Silvertip shark (top right); Lucy with sweetlips (center) and giant sea fan (bottom right)

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there-is-a-silvertip-shark-charging-me” sort Spoiled of call. But I did not ask or wait for more It was around this point explanation, I back rolled into the water that I started to get and headed straight down—there was a spoiled. Underwater, I silvertip to photograph! had passed up pho- I did not expect the shark to stick tos of turtles, batfish around, but it did, for about five minutes, and nurse sharks just and was joined by two others. Continuing because I already had the dive, we headed into another patch so many. Our first dive of sea fans, and the silvertip sharks at a site called Arcade seemed to follow us for a bit. I thought was indeed a turtle city. maybe I would get the perfect shot of a Every few feet, there silvertip shark with pink sea fans behind, was another green or but they did not cooperate and soon left hawksbill turtle—some us. During the dive, we spotted an octo- under ledges scratch- pus, a peacock mantis shrimp and many ing their shells, some at schools of fish. cleaning stations getting At the end of the day, we had seen a bath, others in the water column going to nip at her fins. I pointed it out to her, two species of sea turtles, three species of up for air, others coming back down, and and she gave a heart hand signal under- shark, eagle rays, dolphins, giant trevally, one even seemed to slowly lead me to water. As our dive ended, we ascended huge schools of snapper, octopus, man- a school of batfish, so it could have its to our safety stop, and her batfish buddy tis shrimp, sweetlips and batfish, and photo taken with them. seemed to have called all its friends. We enjoyed a lunch on an isolated sandflat My guide, Rose, had the cutest batfish had maybe two dozen circling us. in the middle of the Indian Ocean. Not a follow her the whole dive, which made Pinnacles was so good the day before bad day… not a bad day at all. me smile; it just stayed a few feet behind that we went back, and it did not dis- CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: A nurse shark lying on the sand is cleaned by wrasse; her, continuously looking like it was about appoint. Once again there were plenty Following a sea turtle, it took me to a school of batfish; Octopus hiding in reef; Dive guide Rose surrounded by batfish; Hawkfish

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Bumphead parrotfish (left); A fever of rays on the reef (above); A pufferfish’s wounds are cleaned by a wrasse (lower left)

class, and we dived Arina, a site in through the jungle, ending the lagoon of St. François Atoll. There near the western corner of were schools of humpback snap- the island. Mingling with other per, two eagle rays, which snuck up guests, we sipped drinks and behind me, a school of bigeye treval- nibbled on fresh fish tacos ly and lots of fish. and dried plantains, discuss- Our second dive was back at East ing our daily adventures and Side Wall. This time, I used my wide- how beautiful and unique angle lens. A cold thermocline crept this place was. After the sun in early in the dive and would not set, we rode our bikes back go away. I found myself shivering for dinner, and I found myself on my the sea fans. An octopus came out and was just about to call off the beach looking up at a million stars to inspect us, and at the very end, dive around 40 minutes in, when a before calling it a night. of course, a manta swam overhead school of bumphead parrotfish came (these things always happen when of nurse sharks, schools of snapper, straight for us. I took one shot and Macro life shooting macro). several Napoleon wrasse, which they turned around to swim away, On my last day of diving, I decided would not get close enough for a but one turned back around towards to shoot macro because the weather FADs good photo, and at the end of the me. It found a piece of coral to bite, looked dark and stormy. At a site The last dive was a special dive. The dive, a fever of marbled stingrays. and while it was eating, it let me get called Theater, I found a large puff- students were doing a Dive Against Just another day of diving around quite close. When it was finished, it erfish, with bite marks on its face, Debris, and the plan was to try and Alphonse Atoll… looked right at me, and then, swam being cleaned by several wrasse. remove a FAD (fishing aggregation away. We also had a glimpse of a The cleaner wrasse moved around device). Large commercial fishing Change of scene lemon shark. the red, exposed, fleshy areas near boats in the Indian Ocean are known A few other divers joined the boat Our day finished with sunset drinks the eye and mouth of the fish. I also to send out these floating platforms doing an advanced open water at the beach bar, a short bike ride found several longnose hawkfish in with lines or nets hanging from them to Scorpionfish (above); Healthy reefs with diverse marine life can be found at Alphonse (top right); Fire dartfish (center inset)

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As I continue to travel for diving the travel same realization keeps occurring to me: as consumers, we need to make edu- cated decisions as to what companies we patronize.

• Choose to dive only with operations that care about the state of the ocean. Those that do all they can to minimize their impact by making efforts to bet- ter the waters they dive such as beach clean-ups or teach educational pro- grams and policies that help divers to be environmentally-friendly.

• Choose to stay at resorts and hotels that make efforts to conserve water and energy (such as rainwater catchment and solar power).

• Find out what happens to the waste. Does sewage get dumped on the very reefs you will dive the next day or is it treated?

• Are the restaurants importing foreign Giant barracuda (above); Blacktip grouper (top left); Life under a FAD foods with a huge carbon footprint and (left)—barnacles were growing on the lines and there were dozens of gold- en trevallies; Wall art made by guests after beach clean-ups included this at the expense of the environment when palm tree by Alphonse's youngest guests Megan and Taylor (right) they could be using local produce?

If we only patronize eco-friendly busi- one, I also thought that peared at my bungalow). I also noticed nesses, it will force the rest to convert to involved looking for one, a new piece of artwork on the walls. more sustainable practices. We have as in, we know they are Made from plastic and garbage found the power to change dive travel for out there, maybe we will on the beach. Megan and Taylor, the the better. We also need to realize that come across one and be youngest guests of Alphonse, had turned being environmentally-friendly will likely able to remove it. discarded flip-flops, bottle caps, a yoga cost business owners more. We need I was wrong. This was mat, cigarette lighters and toothbrushes to be willing to absorb that cost during not a “maybe-we-will- into a palm tree collage. Their artwork our stay, not opting to use the cheap- find-one” mission, the was hung with a humpback whale, a est option just to save a few bucks. For FADs were apparently turtle, and other designs made by other example, it costs nothing to dump sew- so numerous around guests—such a cool project, and their age directly into the ocean, but hav- attract fish. Many are equipped with satel- Alphonse that we saw three within a few palm tree turned out so well! ing waste water treatment plants costs lite GPS systems and fish finders to signal to hundred feet of each other. We man- Everyone met at the oceanfront bar for money, we need to be willing to absorb the larger boats when large schools of fish aged to remove two in just under an drinks and storytelling from the final fishing the costs of our dive vacations not doing are below. hour, with a group of about eight peo- day. I found myself again contemplating harm the very environment we desired Unfortunately, a lot get “lost” and drift ple. I was shocked at how severe the how remote we were, the amazing to see. So maybe the Alphonse model is up on the reefs and beaches of Alphonse FAD problem was here, yet it seemed service of the resort, and the variety of an answer. We sacrifice part of an island (and other islands). They can entangle unknown to the rest of the world. things you can do on the island. Over 100 to tourism, but in the most environmen- sharks, rays, turtles and fish, and can be staff reside on the island, and the resort tally-sustainable way possible, and sup- left as piles of rubbish on beaches or can house around 70 guests—although and around the island. They were green Turning beach debris into art port the rest of the island in its return to shallow reefs. Lucy had told me about Back at the dive center, the amazing often, it is much less. The staff paid and red, so that newly hatched turtles a healthy ecosystem. Visitors get to stay the FAD problem, and when she said staff cleaned my gear and hung it to dry attention to so many little details, such would not get confused and crawl inland on a pristine island and dive untouched, we were going to go and try to remove (and my camera disappeared and reap- as the lights at night on the bungalows towards white lights instead of out to sea. unspoiled reefs. 

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African pygmy angelfish (above); An octopus with twotone chromis and sea fan (left)

It seemed like the staff anticipated ule did not allow time for it. I eagerly what I needed (sometimes even said yes, but woke up to stormy before I realized I needed it) and skies, and I wondered if anyone nothing was too much to ask. would want to ride around in the The resort also offered fishing and rain with me. diving trips to other outer islands, After breakfast, I headed to the including Astove, and dive center in a light drizzle, passing Poivre Atolls. The same thought kept three tortoises munching on grass in crossing my mind, “What an amaz- the rain. I gave them each a wave ing place.” Also, “How do I get back and a silent goodbye. I figured that here again? How can I get to the if my tour was cancelled, I would say other outer islands? I wonder if they goodbye to the dive team as well, need a dishwasher?” but Sam was there and ready to show me the island, so off we went. The last day: Before my trip, I had read up on Island exploration some of the history of the island, and On the previous night at dinner, Sam Sam reiterated that it was originally and Lucy had suggested a guided a coconut plantation, with only a island bike tour—something most few people living on the island. They guests did the first few days they had cut down most of the natural were on island, but my diving sched- vegetation to make way for coco- Red-spotted coral crab on hard coral

34 X-RAY MAG : 93 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO travel Seychelles

Grouper and anthias on healthy reef (left) and palm trees on beach (above) at Alphonse Island; A green sea turtle scratch- es its shell under a coral head (right)

nut palms, and they had mined the island state, as evidenced by the return of the ful island. We were gathered for guano, which was used to fertilize the birds and turtles. up on Saturday afternoon, palms, to the detriment of the topsoil. As The isolation of the outer islands of leaving our bikes behind and a result, many birds stopped breeding Seychelles makes them easy places for returning to the runway in on the island because the vegetation in illegal fishing and poaching. One way to golf carts. I suppose my bike which they nested was gone. In addition, deter turtle and seabird egg poachers is soon had another name on it turtle eggs (and bird eggs) were harvest- to have people on the island year-round and someone else was riding ed, causing a decrease in populations. (like tourists). Of course, this may mean it in paradise. The IDC plane Sam also showed me the gardens that the poachers just go to another came, and we hugged the where much of the food consumed on island, but at least some islands will be staff on our way out (in my the island was grown. Several gardeners safe havens for the birds and turtles. head, I was already plotting worked full time to grow fruits and veg- And on Alphonse, it is apparent that how and when I could return etables. He also took me to the island’s this approach is working, as I have never to visit Alphonse and the solar plant where almost all of the power seen so many turtles. In the mornings, other outer islands). I got on the plane, and being underwater with a cam- needed to operate the island was har- when I walked out to the beach, at any craned my neck to see out the window era. For more information, please visit: vested from the sun. given moment, two or three sea turtle and watched the island disappear into Brandiunderwater.com. Alphonse Resort really seemed to be heads would be peeking out of the water the blue. Still smiling, I thought, “What an the epitome of ecotourism. It felt like the to grab a breath of air. The dark shadows amazing place.”  SOURCES: ALPHONSE-ISLAND.COM, resort had done it right and this would of sea turtles diving and gliding past the BLUESAFARI.COM, IDCSEYCHELLES.COM, be an excellent model for other com- shoreline were everywhere. Birds were Special thanks go to Alphonse Island ISLANDCONSERVATIONSEYCHELLES.COM, panies in the tourism industry to follow. constantly seen circling the island and Resort (alphonse-island.com). SEYCHELLES.TRAVEL, WIKIPEDIA.ORG Admittedly, it is not a budget destina- also nesting. tion, but one is paying for an island that As the days passed, full of activities, Brandi Mueller is a PADI IDC Staff is being rehabilitated. While visitors get but still at the relaxing pace of the island, Instructor and boat captain living in luxury and adventure in a pristine environ- one could almost feel the collective sad- Micronesia. When she’s not teach- ment, the island is being cared for and ness among the guests as we realized we ing scuba or driving boats, Bicycling along the scenic paths of Alphonse given a chance to return to its natural would soon have to leave this wonder- she’s most happy traveling (above); Seychelles day gecko (right)

35 X-RAY MAG : 93 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO NASA Location of Seychelles Islands on global map (right); Location of to solve environmental issues Alphonse, there is no cell service. Al­phonse Atoll on map of Sey­ chelles Islands (below); Sergeant and embraces ecotour- The resort provides free Wi-Fi in the dam­selfish on reef (bottom left) ism as a means to both reception and bar areas. It is pos- increase the economy sible to call out of Alphonse, but fact file and preserve the beauti- only by costly satellite service. Seychelles Islands ful islands. There are many protected and managed Voltage 220-240 volts AC 50 Hz; VICTORIA conservation areas, work- British standard square three-pin. ing to restore previously Alphonse has multipin adapters in damaged habitats to more the rooms. Seychelles International Praslin natural states. Mahé Airport VICTORIA Island Travel/Visa The Seychelles is a LES Mahé Economy In the past, ma- visa-free country, but visitors must SOURCES: ALPHONSE-ISLAND.COM, US CDC, Island BLUESAFARI.COM, IDCSEYCHELLES.COM, AMIRANTES jor exports of the Seychelles provide on arrival a departure ISLANDCONSERVATIONSEYCHELLES.COM, SEYCHELLES.TRAVEL, STATE.TRAVEL.US, US CIA Île Plate came from plantations ticket, confirmation of accom- WORLD FACTBOOK, WIKIPEDIA.ORG, XE.COM Alphonse Island growing copra, cinnamon modation and proof of sufficient Coëtivy and vanilla. Farming and funds. Visitors can stay up to three History The islands of the Sey- the native flora was destroyed to Geography The fishing continue today but at months, with extensions up to chelles were initially settled by the make way for coconut palms and Seychelles is lo- a much smaller scale, mostly 12 months. Proof of yellow fever French in the late 1700s and then the turtle nests ransacked for their cated in the Indian ALDABRA for local use. Current ex- vaccination may be required if ISLANDS ceded to the British in 1814. Estates eggs, meat and shells. The birds Ocean, just south Atoll de PROVIDENCE ports include processed and coming from countries with yellow ATOLL were established throughout the were either killed or they stopped of the Equator, Cosmoledo frozen fish, copra, cinnamon fever. islands growing coconut, cotton, returning because their habitats east of Kenya and ATOLL DE and vanilla. Tourism is a large sugar cane, cinnamon and vanilla. were lost. The island was mined northeast of Mada- FARQUHAR Agalega Islands part of the economy. Transportation In Mahé, taxis (FRANCE) The Seychelles gained indepen- for guano, further damaging the gascar. It includes are common, there are plenty dence in 1976. island, but helping to grow plenty 155 (plus seven Îles Glorieuses Population 94,633 (July of rental car agencies, and the The Alphonse group (Alphonse, of coconuts. reclaimed) islands, (FRANCE) 2018 est). Ethnic groups: island has an extensive public bus MADAGASCAR St. François and Bijoutier) as well In 1977, the government took which are divided primarily creole (East African system. US CIA WORLD FACTBOOK / PUBLIC DOMAIN / PUBLIC WORLD FACTBOOK US CIA as many other outer islands were control of the outer islands with up into the inland and Malagasy); plus French, developed into coconut planta- means to improve working condi- islands and the outer islands. The common; these can be as cold as Indian, Chinese and Arab popula- Health & Security In Mahé, tions by the late 1800s. On Al- tions. In 1983, the Island Develop- inland islands contain 42 granitic 18°C (66°F). Alphonse offers diving tions. Religions: Roman Catholic tap water meets WHO safe drink- phonse and many other islands, ment Company (IDC) began and two coralline islands, which is from November to May for the best 76.2%, Protestant 10.5%, other ing standards. That being said, it is managing the Al- where 98% of the population lives. water conditions. Christian 2.4%, Hindu 2.4%, Mus- advisable to drink bottled water. phonse group (and The outer islands consist of the Ami- lim 1.6% (2010 est). Internet users: Alphonse makes its own water, so the outer islands). In rantes group (29 coral islands), the Environment Many of the outer 52,664 (July 2016 est.) it is safe to drink from taps. There 1999, the Alphonse (13 coral islands), islands were used as plantations in is no malaria or yellow fever in Island Resort and the and the (67 raised the past, wiping out native vegeta- Currency Seychellois rupee the Seychelles, but outbreaks of Island Conservation coral islands). Alphonse is part of tion and destroying seabird and (SCR). US dollar, Euro and British mosquito-borne diseases such as Society (ICS) has had the Amirantes group and is 400km turtle nesting areas. Major efforts Pounds are sometimes accepted dengue and Zika occur occasion- a center on the island (250 miles) from Mahé. Coastline: are being made to attempt to in tourist areas. ATMs are com- ally, so avoid mosquito bites. Rou- since 2007. Currently, 491km. restore many islands, and bird and mon throughout Mahé, but there tine vaccinations are suggested, the IDC, ICS, resort and turtle populations are returning. are none on Alphonse. Credit including measles. fishing company work Climate The Seychelles has an Extensive fishing, both legal and cards are commonly accepted, In Mahé, crime rates are low, together to preserve equatorial climate with high humid- illegal, continue to decimate fish although sometimes with fees. but like anywhere, take sensible Alphonse (and sev- ity and a temperature that chang- populations. Fishing trawlers deploy Exchanges rates: 1USD=13.32SCR, precautions. Secure valuables eral other islands) and es little thoughout the year. The thousands of FADs (fishing aggre- 1EUR=15.03SCR, 1GBP=16.03SCR, in safes, do not leave valuables rehabilitate the islands northwest trade winds blow from gation devices) that float freely 1AUD=9.03SCR, 1SGD=9.04SCR. in plain view inside cars or on as best as possible to October to March, bringing more and often entangle marine mam- beaches, and be aware of your restore them to their precipitation and lower winds. The mals, turtles, sharks and rays. They Language English, French and surroundings. On Alphonse, there natural state. The part- southeast trade winds blow from also wash up on beaches, getting Seychellois Creole. is little chance of issues. nership allows people May to September, which tend to tangled up on coral reefs and to visit these unique be higher winds with dry, cooler become marine debris. Climate Phone/Internet Mahé has reli- Decompression Chambers islands. Government: temperatures. Water temperatures change and sea level rise are also able cellphone networks with data Mahé Victoria Hospital in Victoria presidential republic. are generally 26-27°C (78-82°F), problems as the outer islands are plans available. Most hotels and Silouette Island (45-minute boat Capital: Victoria although chillier thermoclines are low-lying. The Seychelles is working some restaurants have Wi-Fi. On ride from Mahé). 

36 X-RAY MAG : 93 : 2019 EDITORIAL FEATURES TRAVEL NEWS WRECKS EQUIPMENT BOOKS SCIENCE & ECOLOGY TECH EDUCATION PROFILES PHOTO & VIDEO PORTFOLIO