EDRIC ONG (MALAYSIA) INTRODUCTION
• Contemporary Malaysian textiles are: • Hand-woven: Kain Songket, Kain tenun and ‘Pua Kumbu’ Ikat. • Batik: Hand drawn by wax with ‘canting’ or brush; Hand-block/cap with metal blocks. • Tree bark cloth (talun) • Innovative new techniques Hand-woven: Kain Songket/Kain Tenun
• Mainly in the East Coast states of Peninsular Malaysia i.e. Kelantan, Terengganu and Pahang; and in Sarawak. • Considered as traditional Malay costume and has royal patronage. • Woven in silk, and also in cotton. • Traditional motifs are retained, but a new verve in large floral and geometric patterns are flourishing. Malay ‘kain sampin’ hip wrap ‘Tanoti’ silk ‘kain sampin’ hip wrap ‘Tanoti’ ‘Kain Songket’ from Terengganu ‘Kain Songket’ from Terengganu Traditional Malay ‘kain songket’ ensemble ‘Pua Kumbu’ ( morinda citrifolia natural dye) hand-woven warp ikat textiles of the Iban in Sarawak Pua kumbu warp ikat weaving using back strap floor loom Design in Textiles: “Pua Kumbu” • ‘Pua Kumbu’, the woven textile of the Iban is well known amongst textile collectors and museums because of the exquisite and intricate patterns created using the warp-ikat technique where patterns are tied and dyed on vertical threads. • Woven on a backstrap loom, these weavings played an important role in the rituals and culture of the Iban whose oral history dates back 40 generations. • The textiles are usually woven in cotton. The introduction of silk yarn in “Pua kumbu” weaving is an innovation, and the revival in the use of natural dyes has won the Iban weavers of Rumah Garie longhouse, Ulu Kapit the UNESCO Award of Excellence for Handicrafts. ‘Pua Kumbu’ (morinda citrifolia natural dye) hand-woven warp ikat textiles of the Iban in Sarawak Pua Kumbu traditional colours are derived from natural dyes ‘Pua Kumbu’ ( marsdenia tinctoria natural dye) hand-woven warp ikat textiles of the Iban in Sarawak ‘tarum’- marsdenia tinctoria(indigo) ‘akar penawar landak’-fibraurea tinctoria(yellow) ‘Pua Kumbu’ ( fibrauria tinctoria natural dye) hand-woven warp ikat textiles of the Iban in Sarawak Rumah Garie revival of ‘akar penawar landak’ (fibraurea tinctoria) Discovering ‘waar birar’ yellow vines at Buduk Aru, Bakelalan Highlands in 2000 Pua kumbu warp ikat weaving using back strap floor loom Tree bark cloth (talun) of the Lun Bawang and Kadazan/Dusun people Embellishments on Bark vests and jackets Bark jackets and hats as Cultural Identity of Lun Bawang Lun Bawang warrior costume Innovative contemporary bark hats design Malaysian Batik Batik Fashion in Malaysia Malaysian Batik Innovation
• Malaysian batik artisans are now using the ‘textile painting’ method rather than the ‘textile dyeing’ method more prevalent in Indonesia. • The innovation is to be able to apply natural dyes direct onto the textile; and to make it colour-fast. Terengganu batik tulis Piala Seri Endon Batik Home furnishing winning entry Piala Seri Endon Batik Home furnishing Finalist Trengganu batik cap Tradtional Trengganu Batik Cap Trengganu batik cap EO Natural Dye Batik – brush painting technique EO Natural Dye Batik Indigofera tinctoria, Marsdenia tinctoria Natural Indigo Batiks Natural Dye Batik fashion-Edric Ong Natural Dye Batik Fashion-Edric Ong Natural Dye Batik Fashion-Edric Ong Natural Dye Batik Fashion-Edric Ong Natural Dye Batik Fashion-Edric Ong Natural Dye Batik Fashion-Edric Ong Batik Textile Textures Batik Textile Textures
EO ‘Thai’ traditional design wood block hand printed on silk EO natural dye hand painted batik (fully waxed, dipped dyed) EDRIC ONG ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘BUGAKU’ COLLECTION ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘BUGAKU’ COLLECTION ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘BUGAKU’ COLLECTION ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EDRIC ONG ‘BUGAKU’ COLLECTION ‘Shibori’ fashion using handspun, hand-woven Thai silk EO latest hand stamped Sarawak indigo leaves on Japanese ‘shibori’ silk EO latest hand stamped Sarawak indigo leaves on Japanese ‘shibori’ silk EO ‘squirrel foot ferns’ series on silk Thank you! [email protected] www.edricong.com