From the Glistening Skyscrapers of Parel, to the Colonial Architecture Of
Total Page：16
File Type：pdf, Size：1020Kb
MuMbai The Rising Star From the glistening skyscrapers of Parel, to the colonial architecture of old Bombay, Mumbai is as multi-faceted and versatile as a Bollywood movie star, discovers Nellie HuaNg. Mumbai: chaotic, seductive and unpredictable. India’s financial powerhouse and vogue centre of film and fashion, erupts with invigorating energy. During a visit to a city with one of the fastest growing economies in the world, I find myself swinging from one extreme to another, ultrachic boutiques to kitsch street bazaars, stylish fine dining restaurants to grimy pushcart hawkers. It is every cliché that you can think of; stylish malls amid slums and grinding poverty, pol- ished Mercedes sedans cruising alongside rickety rickshaws, and humble peasants rubbing shoulders with glamorous Bollywood starlets. Here is a modern Asian population ferociously battling against long-standing issues of economic debacle, and it’s slowly, but surely, march- ing towards a brand new epoch. For the first-time visitor, the city’s human masses and raucous traffic can be overwhelm- ing. Only once the initial shell shock of Mumbai’s chaos subsides, does one start to appreci- ate its allure: a wealth of colonial relics, sanctified temples, bazaars and modern districts. Hectic as it may be, there’s an ensemble aesthetic here. 14 www.explorer-magazine.com www.explorer-magazine.com 15 MuMbai A local friend tells me how to see Mumbai proper. Take dubbed as Mumbai’s finest luxury hotel - for its unique tuk-tuks everywhere; these three-wheelers are cheap, ubiq- architectural design and contemporary luxuries. Its pres- uitous and supply a mild, pleasurable level of risk. Watch tigious guests include a string of kings, Presidents and Mumbai swirl by through gaps in the flow of riders, while celebrities. Although the hotel fell victim to terrorist attacks soaking in an inebriating mix of sounds, smells and sights. in 2008, little evidence of the shootings remain. The hotel To get a real feel of Mumbai, one has to trace back to has re-emerged, striving to keep up with the relentless drive its old roots. Despite having its name changed in 1997, the towards modernity. metropolis is still known affectionately amongst its residents The heart of Mumbai´s railway network, Victoria Termi- as Bombay, meaning “good bay” in Portuguese. nus, is an excellent display of Gothic British Indian architec- Rusi Khambatta, having spent over forty years flaunt- tural designs, including a meringue of peacock carvings, ing his knowledge on Mumbai, shows me his side of old gargoyles, turrets and spires spread across its extravagant Bombay. “Our city has changed so much I can hardly rec- façade. The neighbouring Rajabai clock tower, modelled ognize it today. But one thing’s for sure, the Bombay spirit is on London’s Big Ben, is embellished with some of the still very much alive.” best stained glass windows in the city. Another flamboyant We start our journey at the city’s most renowned monu- masterpiece from the British colonization era is the Prince of ment, the Gateway of India, a majestic monument poised at Wales Museum, home to a vast collection of Hindu sculp- the tip of Mumbai Harbour. In the olden days, the 26-metre tures, terracotta figurines and war weaponry. high basalt arch was the first landmark you would see when Crossed by massive flyover bridges, and bounded by approaching old Bombay from the sea. These days, it’s a numerous bays, Mumbai is a patchwork archipelago of popular gathering spot for balloon sellers, cigarette vendors, seven islands. Today, it has gone through a facelift with photographers and touts. overnight modernization; many of its original islands have Across it stands another quintessential landmark: the been transformed into gleaming modern districts including Taj Mahal Palace. Since its opening in 1903, it has been up-and-coming trendy commercial district of Parel. 16 www.explorer-magazine.com www.explorer-magazine.com 17 MuMbai hotel review Samui continues to thrill travellers looking for the unique Thai combination of white sandy beaches and world-class hospitality. One hilltop villa promises to add a slice of luxury to your next Siam soirée. Angel’s HAven The hodgepodge of newly-erected shopping malls, Cafe – pulsate with a contemporary beat, drawing in a hip high-street fashion boutiques and lifestyle stores makes and stylish crowd with its selection of urban dance music this Mumbai’s Soho. The district’s newest addition is and international DJs. For a quieter evening, the chilled Palladium, a marble-floored entertainment centre home out lounge at Olive Bar & Kitchen and Bonobo set you in to the highly-acclaimed Comedy Store and numerous the right mood. high-end fashion brands. Nearby is the Tulika Arts Gallery, The night ends with a glass of Moët & Chandon on a showcase of the works of young, local rising artists. Aer, Mumbai’s highest rooftop bar perched on 34th storey The Freedom Tree Design Space, housed in one of the of the Four Seasons Hotel. It manages to get everything few remaining mills of the area, offers avant garde home quite right – from the minimalistic all-white furnishing to furnishing items influenced by traditional Indian crafts and the soothing R&B music and the panoramic view of old modern technology. and new Mumbai in one clean sweep. Aer is definitely on Another newcomer in the district is The ITC Grand the forefront of Mumbai’s rising entertainment industry. A hile beachfront property around the Central Mumbai hotel. As a member of the Luxury Col- look around tells me it’s just the beginning of a new era for world is under risk from rising ocean lection, the five-star hotel is a decadent treat for comfort Mumbai. levels, guests staying at Suralai, a creatures – sassed up with plush chandeliers, Kashmir stunning six-bedroom villa nestled high carpets, colossal paintings of old Bombay and an exclu- Getting There: Jet Airways (jetairways.com),Cathay Win Samui’s mountains, will be quite safe. Located at the sive VIP-only rooftop bar. Its in-house restaurants also Pacific (cathaypacific.com) and Singapore Airlines end of a long, steep winding path, Suralai is one of those dish up some of the finest in town, with the tandoori spe- (singaporeair.com) have direct flights to Mumbai. unique retreats that once you’ve found it, you’ll need a ciality restaurant Kebabs & Kurries and oriental fine-dining Where to Stay: ITC Grand Central Mumbai very compelling reason to leave. establishment, Shanghai Club, worth checking out. (itcwelcomgroup.in), Taj Mahal Palace (tajhotels. The residential suburb of Bandra is a perennial favou- com) and Four Seasons (fourseasons.com/Mumbai) rite with models and Bollywood stars, where travellers offer the best quality of accommodation in Mumbai. can get a taste of Mumbai’s hedonistic nightlife. Bandra’s More Info: www.maharashtratourism.gov.in hottest nightspots – The Elbo Room and Mumbai Times 18 www.explorer-magazine.com www.explorer-magazine.com 19.