Ireland Picturesque and Romantic

3\I IS ADVERTISEMENT. The present volume concludes the work on Ireland, which it has been attempted to render as complete a picture as possible of the country and its inhabitants. To do this it was necessary to go somewhat at large into various topics not usually discussed at the drawing-room it is of the author's that the ex- table ; but one theories, clusion of such topics arises from the sullen pride of the men, and by no means from ignorance, or want of womanly sympathy in the other sex. Perhaps it will not be thought improper to mention here, that the attempt to add to the general stock of knowledge has always been a distinctive feature of the Picturesque Annual. Other books of the same class, however high the tact and talent they may display, are merely compilations, made up in the form of imaginary travels; while the present work consists of narratives of real tours performed by the author. These already comprehend some of the most interesting portions of the Tyrol, the Lombard-Venetian L45 IV ADVERTISEMENT. kingdom, Sardinia, Switzerland, Baden, Darmstadt, France, Belgium, Holland, Denmark, and Russia. The scene of the last two volumes has been Ireland; and, for the sake of bringing in every possible variety, that of the next will include the whole course of the romantic Wye, the pride of England, and supposed by foreign travellers to be unique in Europe. It may easily be imagined that the author does not make the above explanation, as if taking any merit to himself for so performing delightful a task as that of visiting, in person, the scenes he describes; but he thinks it is not overstepping his duty, to endeavour, by this means, to draw attention to the liberality, enterprize, and public spirit of the proprietor. It may be added, with reference to a report circulated last year, that the artist, also, has in every case made his drawings upon the spot— even when in order to do this it was necessary to travel through Russia. CONTENTS. CHAPTER I. of the A preliminary chapter, which may be skipped over as easily as a preface—Signs Times—Connexion between the Physical Constitution of Man and Political Freedom— Hunger in all times the great King-leader—The real Turbulence of Ireland comparative Passiveness—Explanation—Slight Connexion between the Physical Condition of Man and the Moral Virtues— Exemplified in the Character of the Irish Peasant— Both sides of the Medal—The People of Ireland who and what they are— Unfailing Test of an Agi- tator's Honesty or Talent— Mischievous Delusion of mistaking the Thousands for the a People, and the Millions for Nobody—Exemplified in Poland—Russia— Apology of Political Heretic .......... 1 CHAPTER II. Appearance of the country north of Dublin—Drogheda—The Broken Heart—Subterra- nean Temple—Dundalk— Brutal Inhumanity of a Landlord— Newry— Geographical Causes of Prosperity—Employment not the sole want of Ireland—Necessity of a Poor Law— Effects of the present System of Relief— Inapplicability of the Scottish System to Ireland—Mendicants and Pauper Peasants— Habitual Abstinence of tho Irish—Their fixed position with regard to Food and its Moral and Physical Consequences— Irish meaning of the word Destitution— The Irishman in England and the Englishman in Ireland—Foundation of the Author's opinion on the Poor-Law Question— Great na- tional Benefits unconnected with Pauperism which may be expected from the Introduc- tion of the Union Workhouse System . .10 CHAPTER III. Newry—Bay of Carlingford—Mourne Mountains—Abyss of the Parricide—Slieve Donard —Creeping Mountain— Druidical Altar—Downpatrick—Reward of Treason—Danish Fort— St. Patrick's Well—Ceremonial of the Struel Pilgrimage—Extraordinary Delu- sion—Traditional Origin of the Sacred Well— Strangford Lough—Grey Abbey— Settle- ment of Ulster—Condition of the People . .34 CHAPTER IV. Belfast— Character of the People— Religio-political Dissensions— Other indications- Belfast Lough—Carrickfergus— Account of Thurot, the French invader—Description of the Castle . .54 CHAPTER V. Lame — Island Magee—The Gobbins— Superstitions of the People—Witches— Fairies — Brownies— Banshee—Wraiths— Warning Signs—Evil Eye— Superstitions relating to the Daily Occupations— Priests and Ministers—The Dead— A pious Traveller— Road to Glenarm—The Castle—The Bay— Hoad to Cushendall—Vale of Glenarlff—Traits of Character . ........ 6*> CHAPTER VI. Cushendall— Remarkable hill— Cushcndun— Caverns of Red Bay— Paddy Mackay's kit- chen—The Stocking-knitter—Passage of the Carey Mountain— Dinner at a Shebeen- Learning of the Irish peasantry— Bal'ycastle— Smuggling Anecdote—Knocklead—Cairn of the . Three—Black Nun of Bona Margy—Ruined Castles . .78 CHAPTER VII. Bay of Bailj castle— First View of Fuirhead— Question of Sublimity— Erroneousness of preconceived notions— Coaleries— Singular Discovery—Perilous position of the Ex- plorers—Summit of the Promontory— Sensations on looking down the Precipice—Re- markable Anecdote—The Grey Man's Path—Secrets of the Mountain—Descent by the f' ihitsm—Natural llulns at tin' bottom . 1 VI CONTENTS. CHAPTER VIII. Conversation with a small Farmer—Condition of the People— Landlords—Priests and Parsons—Tithes—True nature of the tax— History of ecclesiastical imposts— Effects of the Reformation— Anglican Church—Dissenters—Catholics— Anglican Church in Ire- land—Proposal— Appropriation of tithes to the purpose of education . .101 CHAPTER IX. Peculiarities of the Causeway Region— Carrlck-a-rede and its Swinging Bridge—Charges of the Guides —Trait of Character—The Giant's Causeway—Tradition of its Origin— Cave of Portcoon— Port-na-Spania—Pleaskin— Bushmills— Harvest—The Irish of the Seventeenth Century—Of the Sixteenth—Of the Nineteenth—Unhappy Analogy . 122 CHAPTER X. Dunluce Castle— Anecdote of its capture— Change of Scenery— Coleraine— Salmon Fish- eries—Condition of the Inhabitants—Lamentable Disunion—A Bagman's Notion of the Irish—Newtown-limavady— O'Cahan's Castle— Anecdote—Dungiven and its Ruins- Condition of the People—Elopements—Instance of Conjugal Infidelity— Abuse of the local custom of Eloping to be Married—Approach to Londonderry—The City .13!) CHAPTER XI. Strabane—Stranorlan—Gap of Barnosmore—Singularity of the Country—Donegal—De- scription of the Old Castle—Theatrical aspect of the Bay—Pilgrimage to Lough Dergh— Route to Ballyshannon—Lough Erne—Travelling Exaggerations—Devenish Island— . 153 Enniskillen . ........ CHAPTER XII. Singular boundaries of Leitrim and Sligo—Situation of Sligo— Effect of Colour on the picture—Sligo during the pestilence—Business of the town—Advantage derived from the Scottish Banking System— Library—Lands and Rents— Condition of the People on the western coast—Anecdote—Road to Boyle—Stupidity of the Peasants—The Shannon— The Deserted Village—Athlone and its Anarchy—Personal adventure . 167 CHAPTER XIII. Specimen of an Irish blunder—Shannon Harbour—Singular Rules of the Canal-boat— Characteristics of the Shannon—Banagher—Ruins of Meeleck Abbey—Portumna—The Fair—The Irish Jig—Physiognomical Notices—Lough Derg—Killaloe—Rapids of the Shannon—Castle Cornwall—The treacherous Guest—To Limerick . .184 CHAPTER XIV. Limerick and its Three Quarters— Inhabitants—Female beauty—Catholic Churches in Ireland— Influence of the Priests—Clergymen— Learning of the Priesthood—Anecdote— The Poor of Limerick— Colloquy with the Rich and the Idle—Difficulty in working Miracles—Projected Workhouses—Opposition of Mr. O'Connell . 195 CHAPTER XV. Revolution in Manners—Progress of Democracy— History of the Struggle— Proofs—Sir Francis Burdett and Mr. O'Connell—Degradation of Literature—Convergence of the two extremes of society— A Dream of the Future—The Crisis—Impossibility of Revo- lution in . England—Delenda est Carthago . .208 CHAPTER XVI. The Shannon below Limerick—Tarbert to Tralee— Physiognomy and Phrenology—O'Con- nell's Country—The Agitator and the Viceroy— First View of Killarney—The Town and the Lake ....... 223 CHAPTER XVII. Scene-painting with the pen and pencil—Situation of Killarney— Ross Island— Killarney Echoes—The last Prince of the Lakes—Innisfallen—The Arbutus Tree—Points of View —Gap of Dunloe, and the Black Valley—Atmospheric Phenomena—Mucross—River to the Upper Lake— Eagle's Nest— Killarney to Kenmare—Glengariff—Bantry Bay—Blar- ney Castle .......... 232 LIST OF ENGRAVINGS. PAGE. Carrickfergus Castle . 59 Fairhead . 02 Dunluce Castle . 139 Londonderry . 151 Irish Market Girl . 154 Donegal Castle . 158 Ballyshannon . 163 Lower Lough Erne TITLE TAGE. 1G6 The Irish Jig . 190 Killaloe on the Shannon . 192 A Lahy at Prayers frontispiece . lit!) Lower Lake of Killarney . 231 The Gap of Dunloe . 241 Comme Dhuv, or the Dark Vall f.y . 242 Turk Mountain . 247 M'Gillicuddy's Reeks and thi PPEK Lake of Killarney . 248 Glengaiuff . 253 Bantuy Bay . 2:>r, Waterloo Bridge, Cork . 2.".:; IRELAND. CHAPTER I. 7 A preliminary chapter which ma} be skipped over as easily as a preface—Signs of the Times—Connexion between the physical Consti- tution of Man and Political Freedom—Hunger in all times the great —The real Turbulence of Ireland Passive- Ring-leader— comparative ness Explanation — Slight Connexion between the physical Con- dition of Man and the Moral Virtues—Exemplified in the Cha- racter of the Irish Peasant—Both sides of the Medal—The People of Ireland who and what they are—Unfailing Test of an Agitator's Honesty or Talent—Mischievous Delusion of mistaking the Thou- sands for the People, and the Millions for Nobody—Exemplified in Poland—Russia—Apology of a Political Heretic. I sit down to give an account of a tour of ob- servation in the northern and western counties of Ireland, without any of the misgivings which at- tended my task of last year. It turned out that the volume I then published was not too grave, or too 1! 2 IRELAND. stern, or too true for the drawing-room. The moral pictures I thought it my duty to intermingle and contrast with the others, were not found repul- sive because of their mournfulness.

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