Essential information 2 Essential A natural paradise, the Falkland UK average, and there are more Citizens of Britain, North America, ou never forget your first rockhopper . With information Islands are a self-governing hours of sunshine than the UK. Mercosur, Chile, and most massive ‘eyebrows’ that make them look like hundreds of Overseas Territory offering Commonwealth countries and the mini Denis Healeys, these small but incredibly feisty birds 3 incredible wildlife viewing Time difference EU do not need a visa; on entry Y Introduction in an outstanding, unspoilt GMT -4 in winter (May-August), they are given an entry permit, seem to epitomize the . Tough yet beautiful, environment, 400 miles off -3 in summer. Some people initially valid for four weeks. Cruise rugged but characterful, and definitely full of surprises. 4-5 the southeastern tip of South use ‘ time’ (as opposed to ship passengers only need a visa Experiences America. ‘Stanley time’), which does not (depending on their nationality) if Famous for all the wrong reasons in the early 1980s, those use daylight saving. they intend to spend time on the of us who watched the on our television screens Climate 6-7 Islands before or after the cruise. probably never dreamt that we could one day visit these Stanley The climate is temperate, Health If in doubt, check with a British changeable and oceanic, No special precautions are Embassy or Consulate. amazingly remote islands for pleasure. But, visit we can, and in dominated by persistent westerly required. The King Edward doing so, be one of a select number of appreciative guests. 8-10 winds which average 16 knots. Memorial Hospital is in Stanley: Currency Whether you’re interested in wildlife, people, photography, At Stanley, the maximum reception T28000, casualty T28042 The Falklands pound (£) is on a temperature in summer (emergencies T999). All visitors par with sterling, with local notes walking or wilderness, the Falklands are unique. In an 11 (January-February) is 24°C should have medical insurance. and coins (UK notes and coins increasingly homogenized world, the Falklands deserve to be (76°F); in winter (June-August) are also legal tender). right at the top of any true traveller’s wishlist. I hope you find temperatures can fall to -5°C Visas 12-13 (22°F). Stanley’s annual rainfall All travellers must have full, current Telephone this guide as inspirational as I have. Outer Islands is about 600 mm, less than the passports to visit the Islands. International code: +500 14-15 Planning Lyn Hughes, Editor in Chief your trip Wanderlust Magazine

GEORGINA STRANGE, WWW.DESIGNINNATURE.COM

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by 2 any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise without the prior permission of Footprint Handbooks Ltd. 3 Experiences

Island hopping Battlefield tours history that spans back to the in farm life first-hand. Sheep Travelling in a Falkland Island The Falkland Islands have a rich 17th century. The Falkland Islands shearing, sheep herding using Government Air Service (FIGAS) military history, with residents of Museum (see page 6) provides an dogs (or Land Rovers and Britten Norman Islander aircraft is the Islands having participated insight into the Islands’ past, from quad bikes!) and peat cutting the quickest and most fun way of in both World Wars, as well as those first settlers to the present and its subsequent use as moving around the many islands the 1982 conflict between Great day. Unusual and fascinating fuel are traditional Falkland that make up the archipelago. Britain and . Some of artefacts reveal their struggle on Island activities which can be The planes land on grass airstrips the fiercest fighting in 1982 took this remote archipelago as well experienced on some tours beside which sits a Land Rover, place in the hills around Stanley. as the ingenuity to improvise in or while staying at a tourist engine running, attached to the Along with the monuments at order to survive. lodge. Alternatively try milking landing strip’s fire tender. The MARTIN BEATON each key site there are scattered the cows or just getting to skills of the pilots are second to remnants of guns, downed Whale watching know the domestic animals. none and this is the only way, As you fly over the islands, helicopters and jets and the Fourteen species of marine Another integral part of farm STUNNING LANDSCAPES MAKE FOR other than from a cruise ship, you see a green mottled GREAT PHOTO OPPORTUNITIES... personal belongings of the mammals have been recorded life is Falklands hospitality, with to discover the attractions of landscape, with the occasional conscripted soldiers. Foxholes in Falkland waters. A trip out a warm hearth away from the Bleaker, , Carcass, Pebble, isolated road in view. The treeless A photographic paradise still contain tattered blankets of Stanley to wind and hearty meals to fortify Saunders and Weddell islands. land is marked by stone runs, There are so many points of focus: and ration packets. Walk at your affords the opportunity to try you for the next day’s activities. Each has a diversity of flora, escarpments, ponds, peaty colourful buildings, fantastic own pace around Longdon, to spot some of these at sea fauna and natural beauty to streams and steel blue rivers landscapes and ever-changing Two Sisters, Mount Harriet with spectacular blows often Sporting activities experience. Moreover, apart from taking crazy courses. There are light from sunrise to sunset, tiny and Tumbledown, or arrange exhibited by various species Join in the world’s most the main islands of East and West mazes of water between islands settlements nestling in large open for a local guide with expert of baleen whale. Peale’s and southerly marathon in March, Falkland, each island’s lodge or and peninsulas, gouging out spaces. The wildlife is equally knowledge to bring the battle Commerson’s dolphins regularly play golf on the most southerly self-catering option has its own coves and inlets. The surf rolls photogenic: the playful antics of scenes to life. accompany boats and visit the golf links with a variety of distinct character, so it is worth onto empty beaches. Scanning , fur seals quietly basking bays and inlets. unusual hazards despite the visiting more than one. “Round- the ocean for whales you will among the clumps of tussac grass, Museum and maritime history treeless fairways, or fish for robin” or “scenic flights” with see rafts of albatross and flights male elephant seals fighting on A self-guided walk around Stanley Farm life brown trout and mullet in the FIGAS are alternative options if of petrels. the shore, the relaxed swimming will lead to many discoveries of A number of farms offer the rivers or coastal estuaries. This is time is limited. of sea lions, small birds hopping sunken wrecks and a maritime chance to view or participate one of the last wilderness fishing cheerfully between the rocks and experiences in the world where the delicate beauty of Falklands ALLAN WHITE MEMORIAL TO fish in excess of 5 kg (10 lbs) are flowers. All are amazingly easy to HMS COVENTRY regularly caught. IS A POIGNANT photograph in many locations PLACE... around the Islands. Keep your FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT camera at the ready and watch out for the super-inquisitive “Johnny LIBERATION Rook” (striated caracara) who may MONUMENT be keen to carry it away! SERVES AS A REMINDER OF THE LIZ DIMMLICH MILITARY PAST... EMPTY BEACHES...

4 5 Stanley

FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT Sleeping The vast majority of Falkland THE STANLEY a few places as can take away Michelle’s Café, Philomel St. Islanders live in the capital, WATERFRONT Stanley accommodation ranges fish and chips. For evening The Narrows Bar, 39 Ross Rd East. GREETS Stanley (population 2,115), VISITORS from homely, characterful bed entertainment head to The Shorty’s Diner, Snake Hill. the southernmost capital TO THE and breakfasts to small, boutique Globe pub. Stanley Arms Bar, 1 John in the world. Many of the FALKLANDS... hotels. There is a variety of Biscoe Rd. houses overlooking the options to suit all needs, and The Bread Shop, Dean St and Victory Bar, 1A Philomel St. Harbour have brightly- most offer bed and breakfast as Fitzroy Rd. West Store Café, Ross Rd, in the painted iron roofs and an option, with some providing Deano’s Bar, 40 John St. supermarket. trim gardens. There are internet and also gym facilities. Falklands Brasserie, Philomel St. Woodbine Café, 29 Fitzroy Rd. frequent reminders of the Accommodation prices range The Globe, Philomel St. Islands’ British and maritime Sights from £20 to £100 per person Lighthouse Seamans’ Centre, heritage: red phone boxes, Stanley is fairly compact and military monuments, in this per night. over the bridge next to FIPASS military monuments, pubs, easy to walk around. The case to the First World War. A (’The Seaman’s Mission’). WALKING IN AND Falkland Islands Museum, little further west, in front of the Hotels Malvina House Hotel, 3 Ross Rd. AROUND STANLEY shipwrecks and IS GREAT FUN... exploration vessels. Wildlife Britannia House, Ross Rd West, Secretariat, is the Memorial to Malvina House Hotel, 3 Ross Rd. is close at hand, from the covers all aspects of island life, the 1982 Liberation, at which Miller’s Hotel, John St. seabirds in the Harbour to including natural history, several a ceremony is held each 14 Waterfront Hotel, 36 Ross Rd. the dunes of periods of settlement and the June. Further west is the Royal and the open skies of the 1982 conflict. The ticket includes Marines Monument, celebrating Motels surrounding vast camp. entry into Cartmell Cottage, one their significant role in Falklands Shorty’s Motel, Snake Hill. of the original houses on Pioneer history. Close by is Government Lookout Lodge, Keil Canal Rd. Row, whose interior reflects life House, a large white and green FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT in the late 19th century and the mansion with its glasshouse B&Bs 1940s. More colonists’ cottages frontage, built in the 1840s. Bennett House B&B, can be seen on Pioneer Row and East of the centre is the 14 Allardyce St. on Drury Street. Stanley Cemetery, whose Kay’s B&B, 14 Drury St. In the centre of town is Christ tombstones provide a touching Lafone Guest House, Ross Rd. Church Cathedral, the most record of early settlers. In the Sue Binnie’s, Brandon Rd. southerly Anglican Cathedral nearby Memorial Wood, every FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT in the world, built in 1892. Its tree is named after a British and For a full list of places to stay tower has a ring of five bells and Falkland casualty in the 1982 in Stanley and their amenities Walks around Stanley the stained glass dates from the conflict. Another reminder of please visit falklandislands.com If you take the coastal path past the FIPASS floating harbour, 19th and 20th centuries. Outside the Conflict is the Totem Pole you round the head of the bay to the final resting place of Lady is a whalebone arch, which is on Stanley Airport Road, erected Eating & drinking Elizabeth (228 ft), an iron-built, three-masted sailing ship. At low illuminated at night. by British soldiers to show the Stanley offers a few options for tide you can walk out to her. Almost opposite the distance to their home towns. food and drink ranging from Cross the peninsula beyond Lady Elizabeth to Gypsy Cove, 4 Cathedral is Victory Green, on Like many such poles the world good, freshly baked bread miles, 2 hours walk each way from centre (10 minutes by car), which the waterfront, one of several over, travellers have added and sandwiches to innovative features a colony of Magellanic penguins, black-crowned night indicators to their homes. cooking with local produce. FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT CHRIST CHURCH CATHEDRAL herons and other shorebirds. AND GOVERNMENT HOUSE Good pub grub can be found in

6 7 East Falkland WILDLIFE IN THE FALKLANDS... Bluff Cove Penguins, battlefields and occasional macaroni penguin KING PENGUINS ALAN HENRY farming communities are Bluff Cove, about an hour’s drive Volunteer Point, on the peninsula live in the tussac grass. It is the highlights of daytrips from Stanley, has a large lagoon north of Berkeley Sound, is a reached from Salvador (Gibraltar ELEPHANT SEALS on East Falkland. Some are and long sandy beach where wildlife sanctuary. It contains Station) by off-road tracks, so hire only available to cruise ship over 2,000 gentoo and a growing the only substantial nesting a driver/guide who understands passengers. colony of king penguins live. It colony of king penguins outside the terrain and the techniques is currently only accessible to of and is the to cross it. tours from cruise ships, who most accessible site in the Cape Pembroke get a taste of off-road driving world. Gentoo and Magellanic Darwin & The easternmost point of the Falklands-style, traditional sheep penguins, geese and other birds Beyond Mount Pleasant airport, Falklands is Cape Pembroke, farming and, in the Sea Cabbage can be photographed easily, the road divides, one branch 7 miles from Stanley, whose Café at Bluff Cove Lagoon, typical but keep a respectful distance. turning north to San Carlos lighthouse can be opened with a Islands tea. Sea lions and dolphins may be (see below), the other going LOUISE TAYLOR key from the Museum. The Cape seen from the long, white sand to Darwin (1½-2 hours from GEORGINA STRANGE, WWW.DESIGNINNATURE.COM Long Island PIED itself offers great day walking, beach. It is on a private farm Stanley), a little community with OYSTERCATCHER with plenty of wildlife watching: On Long Island, 20 miles approximately 2½ hours’ drive the wreck of the Vicar of Bray & CHICK dolphins, whales and numerous from Stanley, is a 22,000-acre from Stanley. Visits are arranged (last survivor of the California bird species. There is also a sheep farm belonging to a 6th with local guides who know Gold Rush fleet). Another old iron memorial to the crew of the generation Falkland Island family, the route and understand local ship, the Garland, can de seen ALLAN WHITE Atlantic Conveyor, a supply ship whose traditional way of life, with conditions. Guided tours take up the bay. Just before Darwin is sunk by Argentine forces in 1982. a dairy and using sheep dogs in key battlefield sites from the Argentine cemetery for those ROCKHOPPER Sparrow Cove, Kidney Cove, and island-bred horses to gather the 1982 conflict, the original killed in the 1982 conflict; many PENGUINS and adjacent areas, only a short sheep, is popular with cruise settlement of Port Louis and headstones commemorate, distance from Stanley by boat, passengers and day trippers. the largest (literally a sadly, unknown soldiers. Just PEALE'S DOLPHIN are good areas to see four There are excellent hikes along river of rock) in the Islands. On beyond is the larger settlement ALAN HENRY species of penguin and other the beach and shore of Berkeley cruise ship days many vehicles of Goose Green, where The wildlife. Tours are the only way Sound, with rockhopper, gentoo go in convoy to Volunteer Point. Galley Café offers self-catering. to get there. and Magellanic penguins. To stay longer, the wardens, currently Derek and Trudi San Carlos & around Pettersson, offer lodging and The road to San Carlos is hilly, meals for four people sharing, with lovely views of higher and camping. mountains inland and the bays

and inlets of to GEORGINA STRANGE, WWW.DESIGNINNATURE.COM the west. San Carlos (2 hours Further west on the north coast from Stanley) is a picturesque is Cape Bougainville, where waterside settlement with the STRIATED CARACARA sea lions, rockhoppers and the English cemetery from the 1982 OR JOHNNY ROOK conflict and a museum covering GENTOO AND KING PENGUINS the conflict and the local way of LONG TAILED ALLAN WHITE CAN BE FOUND AT BLUFF COVE... life. Terence and Sheila McPhee’s MEADOWLARK

8 ALAN HENRY 9 East Falkland West Falkland working farm, Kingsford Valley KINGSFORD VALLEY FARM FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT Farm has two comfortable self- On West Falkland, there live just catering cottages. Nearby is the 127 adults. Port Howard is one ruin of the Refrigeration of the principle settlements, a plant, used as the British forces neat, picturesque place, and the base in 1982. Tours run from largest privately owned farm in Kingsford Valley Farm. the Islands with approximately The new road heads north to 42,000 sheep and 400 cattle , Elephant Beach running across 200,000 acres. Farm and . At Race The original settlement is 3½ km Point Farm, John and Michelle south and Bold Cove is the site Jones offer full board or B&B at of the first British landing by the Big House. Gentoo rookeries, Captain John Strong in 1690. It’s , Paul and Dae Peck offer DIDDLE-DEE BERRIES... Magellanic and rockhopper an excellent base to explore West accommodation in the original good food. West is a beautiful road penguins at Fanning Head and lions, Commerson’s and Peale’s KINGSFORD VALLEY FARM Falkland. Activities include trout stone home. to Dunnose Head and Shallow Rookery Sands Beach are close dolphins can be seen. IS A GREAT PLACE FOR THE fishing, 4WD tours to wildlife and Harbour, passing the Narrows and by and there are good walks and The private property offers FAMILY... flora, 1982 war relics, fossil beds Crooked Inlet Farm Town Point nature reserves. excellent trout fishing on the San fishing for Falkland mullet in lions, the occasional whale and and hiking to . Port Further west is Crooked Inlet Carlos river. Guided 4WD tours the tidal lagoon, and fossicking large numbers of ducks and birds Howard Lodge has a small war Farm at Roy Cove. Joy and Danny available, also horse riding. among the whale skeletons on on Swan Pond. Allow a full day museum and takes Land Rover Donnelly run the sheep farm To the south is Fox Bay, the At Elephant Beach Farm the coast. to make the most of the cape; tours and will drive to first-class and still use horses for sheep largest settlement; half is (1½-hour drive from Stanley), a camping is also possible by prior trout fishing spots. work. The settlement is very government-owned, half, Fox self-catering cottage sleeps up Cape Dolphin arrangement. You can return to photogenic, particularly in late Bay West, is private. The road to eight, traditional meals by Cape Dolphin, at the Stanley on the North Camp road Hill Cove settlement spring when the yellow gorse passes Hawksnest Ponds, where request. Here gentoo penguins northernmost tip of East via Teal Inlet and Estancia. About an hour west of Port blooms, with commanding views swans may be seen, in a region and many other bird species, sea Falkland, includes three species Howard a road branches over King George Bay to Rabbit, of 2,000 lakes and ponds. of penguin, storm petrels, sea northwest to Hill Cove Hammock and Middle Islands. KING PENGUINS settlement, another 30 minutes’ They have a comfortable self- Port Stephens SURFING! ON THE BEACH... drive. You can visit the only catering property. There’s also Port Stephens is a spectacular ALLAN WHITE forest in the Falklands (an trout fishing, riding or guided piece of country at the experiment in shelter planting), 4WD tours of the area. southwestern tip of West or make an appointment to Falkland. Accessible by road see the boutique skin tannery Little Chartres Farm and air, the area has rugged run by Henry Boughton. At In the centre of West Falkland is headlands and is home to West Lagoons, adjacent to Little Chartres Farm, which is an rockhopper and gentoo Hill Cove settlement, Shelley ideal base for trips to all points; penguins, as well as many and Peter Nightingale have excellent trout fishing, hiking, unusual geological formations at full-board accommodation on wildlife watching and tours Indian Village and breathtaking a sheep farm. At Shallow Bay are available. The farm has two coastal scenery. Self-catering GEORGINA STRANGE, WWW.DESIGNINNATURE.COM Self-Catering, 25 minutes from comfortable rooms, full board with accommodation is available.

10 11 Outer islands

three-hour walk, 45 minutes by bird species such as Cobb’s wren two residents (and then only Land Rover from the settlement. to flourish. A recommended October to March). It has self- Gentoo, Magellanic, rockhoppers, trip from Carcass is on Michael catering accommodation with imperial shag and black-browed Clarke’s boat, Condor, to West all mod cons in a lovely setting albatross can also be seen here, as Point Island, to see a large colony on an inlet, open October-March. well as dolphins wave surfing and of black-browed albatross and The island has an interesting whales spouting. A further 1½-2 rockhoppers. Dolphins may be history and plenty of wildlife. This hours’ walk goes to the point seen on the way. Crossing is includes Magellanic and gentoo where elephant seals can be seen. about an hour each way. Cruise rookeries, sea lions in the tussac At the Rookery, on the north ships also stop at West Point. grass, imperial shags, shore birds, coast, you can see rockhoppers, is owned and geese and introduced species JULIE HALLIDAY, WWW.STUDIO52.CO.FK imperial shag and black-browed run by Rob and Lorraine McGill such as Patagonian grey fox and albatross. Another good place who rent rooms in the main nine reindeer. In the surrounding THERE ARE SOME STUNNING PANORAMAS TO BE FOUND ON is the bay just north of the farmhouse (October-March). waters are albatross, Peale’s and AND AROUND SAUNDERS ISLAND... Sea Lion Island in the southeast, Pebble Island is thought to be settlement with many gentoo Tours go to sites on the island, a Commerson’s dolphins. There are 35 minutes’ flight from Stanley, is named after the unusual pebbles and Magellanic penguins. There perfect combination of hospitality good hikes straight out of the a wildlife sanctuary, a delightful found on its beaches. Pebble is are many other wildlife sites on and wildlife. settlement. Bleaker Island, a 30-minute place to explore and relax. Many home to more than 40 species this large island. Suzan and David flight south from Stanley, has a southern sea lions breed on the including gentoo, rockhopper, Pole-Evans offer two self-catering Steeple Jason wonderful coastline with white beaches; southern elephant macaroni and Magellanic cottages at the settlement, Steeple Jason is one of the New Island, at the extreme west sandy beaches and sheltered seals also breed here. Up to penguins (you can see five a self-catering Portakabin largest of the isolated Jason edge of the archipelago, is a coves. Bird species include three pods of orca whales are species of penguin in a single sleeping eight at the Neck and a group, northwest of West owned by the rockhoppers, Magellanic and resident around the island and day), imperial shag, waterfowl, self-catering Rookery Inn, within Falkland, accessible only by boat, New Island Conservation Trust gentoo penguins, waterfowl, can be seen cruising the shore in and black-necked swans. Sea walking distance of the Rookery. small cruise ships mostly. Its two (newislandtrust.com). The aim ruddy-headed geese, Falkland search of elephant seal and sea lions can also be found on the Near the Rookery cottage is a peaks, 263 and 290 metres, are of the project, begun in 1973 skuas and an impressive imperial lion pups risking their first swim coast. The eastern half of Pebble backpackers’ Portakabin for two. divided by a narrow neck. There by Ian Strange, is to ensure that shag colony. The area north (summer months). The island also Island contains large ponds and are significant seabird colonies, the island operates as a reserve of the settlement is a National has magnificent bird life: gentoo, wetlands with many waterfowl Carcass Island including the world’s biggest in perpetuity. There is a fully Nature Reserve. One of the key Magellanic and rockhopper and wading birds. Pebble Island Carcass Island, taking its name black-browed albatross nesting equipped field station in the features of the island is Big Pond, penguins, giant petrels, imperial Lodge is well-appointed and run from HMS Carcass which visited site. All the islands are nature settlement for scientific studies. where you can spot Chiloe shag, flightless steamer and by Jacqui Jennings and Allan in the late 18th century, is west reserves; Steeple Jason is owned The recently refurbished Captain wigeon, silvery and white-tufted other ducks, black-crowned night White. of Saunders. One of the most by the Wildlife Conservation Charles Barnard Memorial grebes, speckled and silver herons, tussacbird, oystercatchers spectacular and attractive islands Society of New York. Museum and Visitor Centre is teal and occasionally the rare and striated caracara. Also on Saunders Island for wildlife and scenery, species visited by passengers on cruise flying steamer duck. The island the island is the HMS Sheffield Saunders Island, besides a include striated caracara, gentoo vessels. Contact can be made is owned and run by Phyll and memorial. Sea Lion Lodge (full representative sample of wildlife, and Magellanic penguins, gulls, Weddell Island, in the southwest, through the Trust’s website. Mike Rendell. Visitors can stay board) is open in the austral contains the ruins of the 18th geese and elephant seals. The named after explorer James at Cobb’s Cottage which offers summer (1 September- century British outpost at Port island also has great examples Weddell, is the third largest modern self-catering with three 31 March), and is within Egmont. There is a small group of tussac grass. The island is cat, island of the archipelago, a little bedrooms. easy reach of the wildlife. of king penguins at the Neck, a rat and mice free, allowing small bigger than Malta but with only

12 13 Planning your trip

When to go perhaps) for travelling further in Itineraries T27219, [email protected]. Operators who The best months to visit, for South America. Prices start from A suggested itinerary for a one fk) flies to farm settlements and arrange tours to the Falklands the weather and most wildlife around £1,300 for the round trip week stay in the Falklands is: settled outer islands on a daily Audley Travel: T01993-838 600; watching, are October to April fare (London-Madrid-Santiago- shuttle service. To book a seat, audleytravel.com. when the cruise season also runs. Mount Pleasant). Footprint’s & Day 1 Kingsford Valley Farm. contact FIGAS with as much Cox & Kings: T020-7873 5000 Ext. South American Handbook has all & Day 2 Pebble Island. notice as possible; daily schedules 290; coxandkings.co.uk. Getting there by air & the details. Day 3 Pebble Island. are announced the previous Journey Latin America: T020-8747 FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT Flights from Santiago, Chile, to The Ministry of Defence & Day 4 Saunders Island. afternoon on local radio and 8315; journeylatinamerica.co.uk. Mount Pleasant, via Punta Arenas operates an airbridge (with a & Day 5 Take a trip out to by fax and telephone. One-way South American with LAN (lan.com) leave every civilian charter) to the Falkland the Neck to see four species airfares in 2009 cost between £30 Experience: T0845-277 3366; Saturday and, once a month, Islands twice a week. Flights of penguin and black-browed and £120, depending on distance southamericanexperience.co.uk. stop at Río Gallegos in Argentina depart from RAF Brize Norton, albatross. (Visa and MasterCard accepted); Steppes Travel: T01285-885333; & on both the outward and return Oxfordshire, and take about Day 6 Fly to Stanley. Visit the luggage limit 20 kg. Services steppestravel.co.uk. flight. This means that you can 20 hours including a refuelling FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT Falkland Islands Museum and are daily October-end March, Wildlife Worldwide: 0845-130 6982; extend your visit by exploring stop in Ascension Island at the Gypsy Cove. six days a week otherwise; no wildlifeworldwide.com. Chilean or Argentine , half way point. Fares: £1,975 ARRIVE BY AIR OR & Day 7 Volunteer Point – the flights on 1 January, Good Friday, SEA, YOU DECIDE... or use Santiago or one of the return; group rates £1,775 for world’s most accessible King 21 April, 14 June, 25 December. Taxis hubs between London and six or more; premium economy two to 12 pay half the adult fare. Penguin colony on a 4WD tour. Flights leave from Stanley Airport, Chile ( or São Paulo, return: £3,585. Children aged For the latest MoD schedules & Day 8 Visit the 1982 3 miles east of town on the Cape Taxi fares within Stanley are £3, to and prices, contact the Falkland battlefield sites on your way to Pembroke peninsula, 5 minutes Stanley airport £6. Bonner’s Taxis, Islands Government Office in Mount Pleasant Airport. by car. T51126, [email protected], Wildlife calendar London, T020-72222542, travel@ for transport in Stanley, to Mount Seasonal All year round falklands.gov.fk. MoD flights An additional week would Getting around by ferry Pleasant airport and tours. Also in & Rockhoppers October-May. & Commerson’s and Peale’s include the Falkland Islands £22 allow much more time on West A drive-on, drive-off ferry sails Stanley, Town Taxis, T52900. & Magellanic penguins dolphins (Though the former are exit tax. Mount Pleasant airport is Falkland (Port Howard, Little between New Haven (East) and September-April. less evident in winter). 35 miles from Stanley. Chartes or Port Stephens) and Port Howard (West) Monday, A WARM WELCOME AWAITS... & Black-browed albatross & Orcas Best seen on more of the Outer Islands such as Wednesday, Friday one week, FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT breeding season: September-May. Sea Lion Island. Getting there by boat Carcass or Weddell Island. Friday, Sunday the next, up & Elephant seals September- & King and gentoo penguins Cruise ships en-route to/from to twice a day depending on December; their 25-day moulting Are present, as are most other birds: South Georgia and the Antarctic Getting around by air bookings. Check to see if you period begins in late January-early & geese & ducks are a popular way to visit the There aren’t many places which can take a hire car on at time February. & skuas & petrels & Islands. South American cruises offer a flying experience like of booking. For schedules see Sea lions December-March. & long-tailed & dark-faced & also call. Vessels typically visit The Falklands. Where else would workboat.co.fk. Sei whales meadowlark ground tyrant between October and April each your pilot also be the postman January-February till May-June. & Falkland thrush & pipit & Other whale species year. Passengers usually land for and your whale-watching Car hire & Striated caracara (Johnny Rook) January-February till May-June. tours of Stanley and nearby sites, guide? Where else would your Land Rovers can be rented from Can be seen on Sea Lion, Carcass and Weddell islands. pub lunch, farmhouse tea, and host double up as your airport Falklands Islands Company, FALKLAND ISLANDS GOVERNMENT For wildlife calendars, booklists, & Tussacbird and Cobb’s wren call at some outlying islands. baggage handler? Travel Services in Stanley, and checklists and reports, visit On islands unaffected by introduced For more information visit The Falkland Islands Mitsubishi Pajeros from Stanley SECLUDED INLETS AND QUIET ANCHORAGES... falklandislands.com. predators. falklandislands.com. Government Air Service (FIGAS, Services Ltd on Airport Rd.

14 15 FRONT & BACK COVER IMAGES: JULIE HALLIDAY, WWW.STUDIO52.CO.FK