El Solitario 2019

TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE

Big Bend Be What’s Black Ranch SP Our Up? Bears Map Friend Stars! Return Pages 6 — 7 Page 10 Page 11 Page 12

el SOLita| rIo TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK

To the Fort!

By Cassie Cox Regional Interpretive Specialist Fort Davis, TX TPWD

Since its 1848 founding, people have come and gone from Fort Leaton. Early on it was home to Ben Leaton, wife Juana Pedrasa and their children who also ran the fort as a trading post. Explorers, soldiers, traders, Native Americans, Mexicans and Anglo settlers sought the fort When available, student docents for business as well as a refuge from Native American raids and other borderland outlaws. lead public tours at Fort Leaton State Historic Site. Still today, people come and go clean and maintain the fort and from all over the world to Fort learn skills that will help them Cassie Cox Leaton, now a State Historic along their future career paths. Site and gateway to Big Bend They work on weekends and Ranch State Park, looking to when out of school for breaks. learn about the fascinating As the only program of its type history of the area and recre- in Texas State Parks, we are so ational opportunities in the Big proud to have the students of Bend. Should you visit the fort, Presidio represent their school some staff you might encounter and community to visitors from include Presidio High School all over the world. Stop by Student Docents. and ask if a student docent is These ambitious teenagers apply available to lead you on a tour. for paid positions that allow If not, there are self-guided tour them to learn about the history brochures along with exhibits of the fort, lead visitors on tours, and knowledgeable staff. (cont. on page 2)

Beastly Bones...... 2 Big Bend Ranch State Park Map...... 6 Make the Most of Your Visit...... 3 Access and Visitor Services...... 8 Table of Certified Commercial Guides and Outfitters. . . 3 Featured Hikes...... 9 BBRSP Camping...... 4 Be Our Friend...... 10 contents Be Aware...... 4 Volunteer Activities...... 10 Fees and Visitor Services...... 5 What’s Up? ...... 11 Big Bend Ranch Geology: El Solitario...... 5 The Return of Black Bears to BBRSP. . . . . 12

El Solitario is published by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend Ranch State Park. To the Fort! (cont. from page 1)

We’d like to highlight two special Student Docents for this issue of El Solitario . Crystal and Omar were both Presidio High School seniors who graduated in May 2019 . We interviewed them about what they gained from their time at Fort Leaton State Historic Site .

Omar is more When asked about their confident favorite part of the job, in public they both mentioned speaking. enjoying telling the stories

of the fort to visitors from Cassie Cox all over world, including some visitors they met new people, more knowledge- planted for erosion control due from Belgium and Iceland. able for job interviews, and he to the loss of grasslands. The They appreciate the understands what constitutes conversation also led to what reactions of visitors as good customer service. they learned about wildlife in the they share the amazing area. Both docents have become As a part of their jobs, they’ve history of the fort and very familiar with the Mexican both learned “pro tips” in Big Bend region. free-tailed bats that call the fort cleaning skills, what invasive home, as a part of their duties Crystal exclaimed “It’s species have done to habitat in are to clean up after the squeaky the best job I’ve ever had!” their region and how special it little guests. Omar shared that this is to live on the border of the position has been a big U.S. and Mexico. “The river Park staff have greatly enjoyed working with these docents and

Cassie Cox boost in his confidence. unites us,” Crystal declares. Omar says that thanks to We discussed what the region wish them well as they move to Crystal has learned a lot about the El Paso, TX for college. history of the area. his time at the fort, he’s would have looked like if invasive less shy when meeting salt cedar (tamarisk) was not Beastly Bones

By Amber Harrison, Park Interpreter, Barton Warnock Visitor Center

When you enter the gift shop at the Barton Warnock Visitor Center, one of the first things you see is a fossil cast of Tylosaurus napaeolicus. It’s one of five recognized species of Mosasaur – a ferocious predatory marine reptile that lived in what was once a shallow sea covering West Texas millions of years ago.

Mosasaurs are most closely related to the modern-day monitor lizard. Like the monitor lizard, Mosasaurs were both hunters and scavengers. They survived on a diet of fish, sharks and other deep-sea creatures of the time. While Mosasaurs preferred deep sea environments, they were well-adapted to scavenging and hunting in shallow waters. The fossil cast we have dates to the Late Cretaceous period, roughly 100–66 million years ago.

The original fossil that this was cast from was discovered by local paleontologist, Ken Barnes, in 1990 west of Big Bend National Park. The replica was donated to Big Bend Ranch State Park in Illustration of what a mosasaur 2014. Take a walk through may have looked like. the Una Tierra (One Land) exhibit at the Barton Warnock Visitor Center to learn more about the natural and cultural

TPWD history of the area.

2 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Certified Commercial Guides and What is there to do at Big Bend Ranch Outfitters State Park? The sky’s the limit! Laijtas, Terlingua Whether you are seeking high Big Bend River Tours adventure or some 432-371-3033 • 800-545-4240 relaxation and Desert Sports solitude, the park 432-371-2727 • 888-989-6900 has plenty to offer . Bring your own gear, Far Flung Outdoor Center or contact one of the 432-371-2489 • 800-839-7238 outfitters listed . Lajitas Stables For print materials, 432-371-2212 • 800-887-4331 go to: www .tpwd .texas .gov/ Presidio, Redford bigbendranch or Angell Expeditions inquire at one of the 432-229-3713

TPWD park visitor centers . Make the Most of Your Visit

Horseback Riding Various side roads within the park require high-clearance and/or Mountain Biking four-wheel drive vehicles. Park staff can advise you where to travel, Many of the park’s trails and The park offers over 100 miles depending on your type of vehicle and interests. campsites are suitable for of trails and road for all skill equestrian use, with corral For a pleasant paved driving experience, follow River Road/FM 170 levels. One popular venue is the facilities and water available. from Barton Warnock Visitor Center to Ft. Leaton State Historic Contrabando Multi-Use System All pack and saddle stock users Site or vice versa. You’ll encounter gorgeous vistas and short (series of trails), which can be day hikes from this road. accessed from two trailheads in must obtain a backcountry use the Southeastern part of the permit and bring their own park near the Barton Warnock weed-free feed. All horses are Hiking Visitor Center on FM 170 in There are many, many miles of hiking for all skill levels in this required to have documentation Lajitas, TX. Interpreted sites over 300,000-acre park. Trails can be accessed from Sauceda of a current Coggins test. along the route include the Ranger Station in the interior of the park as well as off of FM 170. remains of a candelilla wax River Access Different trails lead to amazing vistas, tinajas (rock basins that camp, a cinnabar mine, and an sometimes carry water), ancient rock art, cottonwood groves, The Rio Grande provides oppor- historic ranch. Ask for the waterfalls, desert springs, historic ranch homes, deep canyons special map that covers this tunities for rafting, kayaking, and more. trail system. Remember that a canoeing and fishing. Several helmet is a must. river access points are found With Big Bend Ranch’s abundant wildlife and desert vegetation, along FM 170. Colorado Canyon interesting rock formations and geology and long history of use by The International Mountain Biking Association (IMBA) has includes Class II and Class III humans, we know you will not be disappointed by your adventures on foot. Consult a Park Ranger for latest trail conditions and designated the Fresno-Sauceda rapids—not considered review the safety notes on page 8. For descriptions of some Loop Trail as an “Epic” ride – dangerous under normal flow popular hiking trails, check out the article on page 9. one of fewer than 50 in the conditions. United States and Canada. Mountain Bike Hall of Fame Vehicle Touring inductee Hill Abel describes the The main entrance road into trail as “a huge day in the the interior of BBRSP takes saddle and super challenging.” A highlight along the way is the you through the west entrance, historic Crawford-Smith Ranch. “Botella Junction,” and on Ask a Park Ranger for an to Sauceda Ranger Station. interpretive brochure about this The road to Sauceda is a well- site for more information. maintained dirt and gravel The Horsetrap Bike-and-Hike thoroughfare that requires slow Trail is easily accessible from speeds and is suitable for 2WD Sauceda Ranger Station. The vehicles. It is not recommended degree of difficulty ranges from for large RVs or trailers. From moderate to downright River Road/FM 170 it is about challenging. A 200-yard portion 27 miles to Sauceda Ranger of the trail is particularly sandy. Station through incredible Enjoy the solitude and the scenery that you won’t forget. Amber Harrison scenery “off the beaten path.”

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 3 Your Home for the Night: BBRSP Camping

By Amber Harrison, Park Interpreter, Barton Warnock Visitor Center

Big Bend Ranch State Park offers many options for camping including backcountry, primitive, and equestrian sites. Primitive and equestrian sites are accessible with a motorized vehicle. Backcountry sites are not accessible with a motorized vehicle. Some roads require four-wheel drive and/or high clearance. Because BBRSP is so large it is not always easy to know what type of site is best for you. The descriptions below provide a

quick reference to help you choose the right site for your adventure. Amber Harrison West Contrabando Campsite Backcountry: These sites are sites only have one site and do intended for self-supported not have a toilet. All waste must hikers, bikepackers and be packed out if a toilet is not equestrians. There are no available. Up to eight people BE AWARE: designated campsites in the and two vehicles are allowed at backcountry. Overnight visitors each site. Additional vehicles select their own site along the can be added for a small fee. For your safety and welfare way. Sites must be at least None of the access to the sites In the unlikely event that 3/4 mile from any trailhead or in the interior are paved and Many wonderful animals active road. All water, food and some require four-wheel drive. live here and play a vital you encounter a black bear supplies must be carried in. A detailed campsite guide is or mountain lion, do not Park orientation, Special Use available at our ranger stations role in the balance of run. Instead, face the animal, Permits and trip itineraries are or online at http://tpwd.texas. nature. You are a guest make noise and try to look required from a park visitor gov/publications/pwdpubs/ in their home. By learning as large as possible. Pick up center. Reservations are not media/pwd_bk_p4501_2059.pdf small children. Back away required for a backcountry site. Equestrian Campsites (vehicle about the park’s wildlife slowly. If attacked, fight back. Vehicle Accessible Campsites: accessible): These sites have and observing the following Report sightings to park staff These are designated campsites corrals, shade structures and immediately. along FM 170 and in the park fire rings. You must obtain the tips, you can show them interior. These are referred to appropriate permit and bring the respect they deserve Western as “primitive” because they have your own feed. All equestrian Diamondback limited amenities. Most sites sites are accessible via unpaved while keeping yourself and rattlesnake have a fire ring, picnic table roads in the park interior. your family safe and shade structure. These This rugged country is hard on . include single occupancy and horses – you and your horse group campgrounds. Group must be physically fit. Call the Rattlesnakes are especially campgrounds have multiple park ahead of time to ask about common at Big Bend Ranch. sites in one large area with the availability of water at Watch where you put your a composting toilet, but no your site. running water. Single occupancy hands and feet. Never harass or attempt to handle a Rancho Viejo Campsite Upper Madera Campsite rattlesnake—this is when most bites occur. Rattlesnakes are protected in the park; do them In the unlikely no harm. + event that a snake Never feed wildlife or allow bite occurs: them to get human or pet food. • Remove jewelry and loosen tight-fitting clothing . Observe wildlife from a safe distance; never approach or • Wash the bite area with disinfectant . try to photograph them at close range. • Keep the person calm and quiet . Keep children and pets under © Gary Nored Amber Harrison • Limit movement if at your control at all times. all possible . There are no self-pay options for camping at BBRSP. All sites need Clean up and store food and to be paid for at one of the ranger stations. Site reservations can be • Watch for symptoms garbage immediately after meals; of shock . made in advance by calling (512) 389-8919 or in person the day of never keep food in your tent. check-in at any of the ranger stations. While the park rarely fills, • Seek medical attention reservations are recommended. Allow additional time for completing Enjoy the outdoors with immediately . Special Use Permits if needed. others, not alone.

4 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Big Bend Ranch State Park Fees and visitor services Daily entry fee: $5 per person per follow us! Emergency services day for all visitors Cell phone service in the park is 13 years and older . Big Bend Ranch State Park unreliable and limited. Standard Vehicle on Facebook In the interior of the park 9-1-1 service may be and Instagram several hours away, but if you have cell phone Campsite: signal call 9-1-1 to alert the proper authorities . $12 per site/day Be sure to provide details of your location . If in the interior of the park go to or call Backcountry Sauceda Ranger Station for help: Camping: (432) 358-4444 $10 per night/site If camping along FM 170 go to or call Barton Warnock Visitor Center: (432) 424-3327 Dump station located at No gas, diesel or groceries available in park. Barton Warnock Visitor Center . No hook-ups in park . About 36 million years ago, Lodging magma from deep within the The interior of the park offers El Solitario: Earth pushed upward and Sauceda Lodge Bunkhouse accom- displaced thousands of feet of modations . For reservations or more overlying rock creating a blister information call (512) 389-8919 or dome-shaped bulge on the from 8 a .m . to 6 p .m . Monday What’s in a name? Earth’s surface. Over millions through Friday except major of years, erosion collapsed the holidays . dome’s older rocks. Subsequent TPWD volcanic activity removed Airstrip overlying rock, collapsed some of the lava chamber and formed a Big Bend Ranch paved airstrip 3T9 small caldera. 103-56-11 .7030 W The Solitario, as we see it 29-28-10 .6840 N today, emerged about 2 million Elevation: 4250 feet years ago when the ancient Rio Length: 5500 feet Grande began cutting its now famous canyons. Eons of erosion Park Information exposed some of the Earth’s and Permits most ancient rocks in Solitario’s core. These rocks are remains of Park information and permits for the Ouachita Mountains, which day use and camping (subject to predate the Rockies. They now availability) may be obtained from form the Solitario’s outer rings. the BBR complex park headquarters The entire southwest quadrant during the hours below . of the Solitario has steeply inclined inverted V–shaped Sauceda Ranger Station Aerial view of Solitario rocks called “flatirons.” Park interior (432) 358-4444 looking north-northeast 8 a m. . to 6 p .m . There are several places in Closed Christmas Day the park to experience the full visual impact of the Solitario. Flatirons Barton Warnock Visitor Center TPWD One overlook is a few miles past Lajitas (432) 424-3327 Sauceda and is accessible by 8 a m. . to 4:30 p .m . daily 2WD vehicles. Fresno Overlook Closed Christmas Day El Solitario is obviously quite special to the park as the newsletter you on FM 170 between Lajitas and hold in your hand bares its name . But what does it mean? Spanish for the Teepee Picnic Area offers a Fort Leaton State Historic Site “hermit” or “loner,” El Solitario is THE signature landscape feature of great view in late afternoon. For Presidio (432) 229-3613 a closer look using 4WD, chat 8 a m. . to 4:30 p .m . Big Bend Ranch State Park . Almost 10 miles across and nearly with a Park Ranger about latest Closed Christmas Day symmetrical, this collapsed and eroded volcanic dome straddles the road conditions and obtain a Brewster and Presidio county line in the eastern portion of the park . more detailed map.

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 5

Big Bend Ranch State Park Access and visitor services Pets Pets are not allowed on hiking welcome, trails (except Closed Canyon Trail and Hoodoos Trail on FM Keith 170), in the backcountry, or more than 1/4 mile from campsites Keith Kinnard is the new or roads . Always keep pets on a leash and pick up after them . Superintendent for Sauceda Never leave pets unattended Ranger Station of Big Bend or allow them to approach wild Ranch State Park. After animals or livestock . growing up in the diverse landscapes in the desert of Enjoy the Park Fort Stockton, Texas, Keith (and live to tell about it) obtained his Criminal Justice Road conditions are affected by rain and runoff and will The beauty of Big Bend Ranch degree from Midwestern State vary widely . Check with a ranger for conditions on arrival . lies in its rugged remoteness . University. You are responsible for your own Know Your Vehicle personal safety while at the park . During his 25-year career as a Stay alert, read posted materials Some roads are suitable only for high-clearance or four-wheel-drive Travis County Senior Sheriff’s and consult a ranger for advice . vehicles . If you have any questions about the roads or the suitability of Deputy, Keith enjoyed working your vehicle, consult a park ranger . Stay cool . Desert heat and with the local students through dryness can kill, plus sunburns • Two-wheel-drive (2WD): main road and some spurs that any the DARE program, regional hurt . Use sunscreen . Wear highway- worthy vehicle, driven responsibly, can access . long-sleeved shirts, long pants environmental task force, as and a broad-brimmed hat with • Two-wheel-drive, high-clearance (2WDHC): roads where extra well as numerous community sunglasses . Avoid strenuous clearance is required due to road conditions (rocks, steep dips, service events. outdoor activities during the etc .) . hottest part of the day . • Four-wheel-drive (4WD): recommended where extra traction is He joined the Texas Parks and Water is life . If you wait until required on steep, loose or soft ground . Includes all-wheel drive Wildlife Department in 2016 as you’re thirsty, you’ve waited too (AWD) . State Park Police Officer for long . Each person should drink • Four-wheel-drive, high-clearance (4WDHC): primitive roads Big Bend Ranch State Park, 1 gallon of water per day . Make harsher than 4WD, where passage requires vehicles with extra and has thoroughly enjoyed sure to consume salt and elec- traction, rigid suspension and high clearance . trolytes as well . Drinking water is the vast lands, keeping our available at all Ranger Stations . High clearance is considered a minimum of 8 inches . visitors safe, as well protecting the park’s cultural and natural Weather the weather . Storms can pop up quickly despite what Rules for the Road Less Traveled resources. weather predictions are . In a lightning storm seek shelter Park roads are dirt and may be narrow . Speed limit is 25 mph on inside a building or vehicle . primary park roads . Drive slowly to keep yourself, your passengers, Do not stand under trees or in your vehicle and the park’s animals safe . shallow caves and avoid high When should 4WD be engaged? Generally speaking, once you leave ground . the maintained road, shift from 2WD into 4WD and leave it there until Stay high and dry . Be mindful returning to the maintained road . Use 4WD low before you need to while traveling through slot negotiate any really difficult obstacles . canyons and arroyos as flash Take care of your tires . On primitive roads, the number one trouble flooding does occur . Never cross is tire failure, often sidewall punctures . Drive slowly and watch rain-swollen creeks and washes . Temperatures can fluctuate and for sharp rocks, sticks and cactus . Carry fix-a-flat, a lug wrench, change quickly . Be prepared for hydraulic jack and tow strap . A good spare is essential; two spares are all types of weather . recommended .

Don’t go it alone . Tell someone Always carry an extra 5 gallons of water. your plans and estimated return Beware of brush . The woody bushes of the desert are extremely hard time . Don’t explore alone . Cell and can produce nasty scratches in your vehicle’s paint . phone service is spotty so don’t rely on it . Always have plenty of water and food in case you get NOTE: Permits are required for travel on all BBRSP roads 2WDHC stuck somewhere for a while . and beyond.

8 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department Hoodoos Trail Cinco Tinajas Fresno Divide Closed Canyon featured HIKEs

By Amber Harrison The Trails of Big Bend Ranch Photos: © Gary Nored Big Bend Ranch State Park contains over 300,000 acres There are two options for accessing many of the trails. One option is for trails off of the and boasts some of the most rugged and remote public paved highway River Road/FM 170. The other trails are off the unpaved Main Park Road into the interior of Big Bend Ranch – Sauceda Ranger Station. land in the state . Multi-use trails open to hikers, equestrians and mountain bikers allow access to many remote areas Some of the park’s trails are suitable for hiking only, while others are more appropriate for mountain biking and horseback riding. There are opportunities for everyone! Chat with a within the park . Our mission is to capture the spirit of the Park Ranger to develop an itinerary and refer to maps for the adventure that best suits land by offering trails that are scenic and peaceful, yet your needs and abilities. The following are descriptions of the most popular trails in the offer a natural and wild outdoor experience . park. See the quick reference table of trails at Big Bend Ranch State Park.

Approximate Round Trip Trail Name Trailhead Location Distance in Miles Difficulty* Recommended Use

Contrabando Multi-use System FM 170 25+** easy-difficult hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding Rancherias Loop FM 170 21 difficult hiking, horseback riding Closed Canyon FM 170 1.4 easy hiking Hoodoos FM 170 1.1 easy hiking Ojito Adentro Main Park Road 0.8 easy hiking Cinco Tinajas Main Park Road 1 easy hiking Leyva Escondido Spring Loop Main Park Road 4 moderate-difficult hiking Horse Trap Main Park Road 4.3 easy-difficult hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding Sauceda Nature Trail Main Park Road 0.9 easy-moderate hiking Encino Loop Main Park Road 7.2 easy-moderate hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding Fresno Rim Overlook Main Park Road (to Llano Loop Rd.) 5 easy-moderate hiking, horseback riding

* Difficulty ratings will vary for each user group. Always consult a Park Ranger or local outfitter about routes, trail and weather conditions and obtain appropriate maps and permits before heading into the park. ** This is a system of trails with many routes both short and long. Consult a Park Ranger to plan your trek.

Trails Accessible via and narrow, little sunlight reaches the Cinco Tinajas: Tinaja is a Spanish word Horse Trap Trail: This trail is a Paved Highway FM 170 floor and the temperature in the canyon for a rock basin that usually holds water. combination of decommissioned double- is substantially cooler than out in the Contrabando Multi-use System: At this site you will see five tinajas just track and single-track with gentle exposed desert for most of the day. A The East and West Contrabando a short hike from the trailhead. These grades and outstanding views of the great retreat from the summer heat and Trailheads are the two main access pools contain water most of the year a perfect hike for a family. Be weather rolling hills and low mesas of the central points to this system. It is made of up which makes them unusual features in wise! Flash flooding may occur. Leashed interior of the park. of over 25 miles of interconnected trails the desert. These tinajas and nearby dogs are allowed on this trail. of varying difficulty that expose you to springs support many species of plants It is named for its proximity to Horse some spectacular natural and cultural Hoodoos: This site is named for and animals and have been an important Trap Springs, once used to supply the landscapes in the park. Educational its unique geological features called resource for people throughout history. Sauceda complex with drinking water. waysides interpret ruins you’ll see on “hoodoos.” The word hoodoo originated Leyva Escondido Spring Loop: This The trail itself runs through an old the trail. in Africa and refers to what they challenging trail takes you beyond Cinco believed were strange animal shapes pasture where horses were kept during Rancherias Loop Trail: Rancherias is a in the rocks and embodied evil spirits. Tinajas to Leyva Escondido Spring via the early years of the ranch. challenging, 21-mile-long loop. It begins A short trail leads you to a series of Leyva Creek. This trail will take you at the East Rancherias Trailhead and Encino Loop: This is a combination of hoodoos, along the bank of the Rio past a Native American rock art site ends at the West Rancherias Trailhead. Grande. Another great hike for a family and up to a vista with 360-degree views double-track, single-track and graded It ascends from lower elevations near with children. Leashed dogs are allowed of Leyva Canyon. dirt road. Short stretches of park roads the Rio Grande through the rugged on this trail. connect the Encino and Powerline Trails canyons of the Bofecillos Mountains. Sauceda Nature Trail: This trail passes Natural springs with fairly reliable Trails Accessible via Unpaved through country that is typical of the to form a loop. The terrain consists of water, riparian habitats and historical- Interior Main Park Road Chihuahuan Desert and Llano area of the low rolling hills and mesas that are period ruins will be encountered along characteristic of the central interior Ojito Adentro: This short trail leads the interior park. It traverses a ridge the way. to lush springs and a seasonal waterfall composed of lava like that found in portion of the park. the Bofecillos Mountains to the west. Closed Canyon: This is a short hike that features a distinctive community of Fresno Rim Overlook: This is a into a narrow slot canyon. The high riparian plants and animals. The springs Signs along the way identify some of the combination of double-track and single- walls of the canyon guide you along the have been an important resource for plants common to the region. From the way, progressively becoming narrower people and wildlife throughout history. trail you will enjoy outstanding views track trail that leads to a 700-foot cliff as the canyon trends towards the river. Ojito Adentro is one of the top birding of La Mota Mountain and the historic overlooking Fresno Canyon with views Because the canyon walls are so tall sites in the park. Sauceda complex. of the flatirons of the Solitario.

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 9 VOLUNTEER OPPORTUNITIES Be Our Friend By Amber Harrison, Big Bend Ranch State Park and Mike Slaton, Compadres del Rancho Grande

Love what you see? better. You can see our Blown away by Big Bend Ranch? handiwork everywhere — from We’ve all experienced the same. trail maintenance to hosting In fact, we never lost that extreme cross-country running feeling. You can do it too, and biking events. We also help through the park’s official publish the El Solitario “Friends Group.” Lots of things newsletter. Our mission is to help improve park facilities, out here leave a mark – and aide in restoration efforts and we’re not just talking about the inspire stewardship. sun, the prickly vegetation, or miles of rugged road and trail. We are the Compadres del Every turn of the scenic River Rancho Grande (CDRG), Road and jagged fold of the “Friends of the Big Ranch,” and Solitario flatirons leaves an we’re easy to spot by the great imprint on your mind. A quiet big smiles on our faces. As the pool of clear water in a shaded official, non-profit group tinaja and the rustling of supporting the Big Bend Ranch cottonwood trees can leave you State Park complex, which breathless. The biggest state includes Barton Warnock park in Texas will fill your Visitor Center, Fort Leaton heart and, if you are like us, State Historic Site and the mark you forever. Sauceda Headquarters, we help the Texas Parks and Wildlife You may find yourself standing Department complete projects amidst all this magnificent and conduct programs by beauty wondering, “how can I acquiring donations, supplying hold onto this feeling? How can labor and having a presence. I help preserve this special place?” Let us help you There’s always a way to help . accomplish that! Since 2009, a Join us . Connect with us . Friend hardy group of volunteers have us . Donate your time or money .

APRIL 2018 International Dark Sky Association Dark Sky Week Compadres purchased food for the event and assisted in promoting Big Bend’s dark skies while staff from BBRSP and partners from the Big Bend Conservation Alliance and the McDonald Observatory did programs and dark sky-friendly lighting demos. SUMMER 2018 Summer Arts in the Parks program Three years in a row, Compadres purchased supplies for a 6-week community art program in collaboration with local artist, Crystal Compadres complete their Big Bend Ranch SP bird blind. Allbright. The program is a mix of science, nature and art inspired by the natural and cultural resources of BBRSP. FALL–SPRING 2018 www.parkfriends.org

New Bird Blind Amber Harrison HOW TO GET Compadres funded and constructed a bird blind and wildlife INVOLVED viewing area at Papalote Escondio near the Sauceda Ranger Donate your dollars, Station in the park’s interior. Check it out! time, and love . Become DECEMBER 2018 a member at the Dark Sky community event at the Terlingua baseball field CDRG website at www .parkfriends .org . Compadres supported the event promoting dark skies in Big Bend. Friend us on Facebook Staff from BBRSP and partners from Big Bend National Park gave at Friends of Big Bend programs on astronomy and light pollution for their first program Ranch State Park . partnership ever! Astronomy volunteers provided telescopes for Or call us at stargazing. Local artist Crystal Allbright leads summer art programs with help from the Compadres. 432-229-3229 .

10 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department BEYOND THE LAND What’s Up?

By Laird Considine, Retired Site Superintendent Barton Warnock Visitor Center

So, what’s up? At night, a lot of stars! Big Bend Ranch State Park is now designated as a Gold Tier International Dark Sky Park with the darkest skies remaining in the continental United States .

If you’re a beginner star-gazer, it can be overwhelming. In urban areas the brightest stars © Gary Nored are visible, and some constella- Can you spot Orion in this star-scape above the Rio Grande in Big Bend Ranch SP? tions are easy to find. Out here those constellations are slowly danced their way into the the North Star. See the image It’s one of the few constella- surrounded by many stars and night sky. below to help you find Polaris, tions that actually looks like can be harder to locate. which is also the tip of the tail what it is named for. Some visitors may want to Star charts are helpful as well of Ursa Minor (Little Bear), learn the constellations of the As we move into fall be looking as stargazing apps for your another circumpolar constella- Zodiac. At any time of night for the “Great Square” of smart devices. Red lens tion. The three remaining are you should be able to see half Pegasus. It really is a very large flashlights or headlamps help Queen Cassiopeia and her of them. But be forewarned: husband King Cepheus, and square, and hanging off the maintain your night vision for several of the Zodiac constella- Draco the Dragon. Locating square is Andromeda. If you soaking in all you can see of the tions are easier to find these five constellations have good eyes you can find Milky Way galaxy above your (Scorpio, Leo, Gemini, throughout the year as well as the Andromeda galaxy. This is head. Don’t have a telescope? Sagittarius, Capricorn, Taurus) their major stars, will help you the only object outside of our Binoculars are great at helping while others are more difficult. navigate the night sky to other galaxy that is visible with the spot night sky objects like star The Zodiac constellations follow nearby constellations. Or you unaided eye from the northern clusters. the same path across the sky as can “cheat” by using that handy hemisphere. Try to locate it the sun and planets, known as with those binoculars and star As the earth rotates on its axis app you downloaded. Simply the ecliptic. chart or app. and around the sun, the night point your device in any direction and learn what’s up sky changes with each minute Much of the year you can spot Hopefully now you’re more above you. and each season. If you look at the Big Dipper, part of the excited about the “game” of the sky at 10 p.m. and then constellation Ursa Major (Big Another main constellation hunting for stars in the night again at midnight, constella- Bear). Not sure which one it is? you might know is Orion the sky. Many of those constellations will shift. If you’re looking Look to the north. Ursa Major Hunter. Most of the visitors to tions’ names come from the in January and then again in is one of five circumpolar con- the Big Bend are here in late Greek myths. With a quick July, new constellations have stellations that circle around fall to early spring, in those internet search, you can find seasons Orion can’t be missed. their stories, handed down for Image from www.stellarium.org The three stars of his “belt” thousands of years, entertain- ing and interesting for sure. with his sword hanging from it will catch your attention even if To do your part in protecting you don’t know anything about our night sky from Orion! As the sky rotates into encroaching light pollution, spring be looking for Leo, Virgo, visit www.darksky.org to Corona Borealis, and Bootes. learn about the simple changes you can make to keep your Summer showcases an light out of the sky. incredible night sky show! There’s the “Summer Triangle” of three stars in three constellations: Altair in Aquila, Deneb in Cygnus, and a very bright star named Vega in Lyra. Cygnus, the Swan, is flying right down the middle of the Milky Way! And you can’t possibly miss Scorpio, either.

big bend ranch state park | el SOLitarIo | 11 NAtural HISTORY The return of Black Bears to Big Bend Ranch State Park

By Price Rumbelow, Habitat Conservation Specialist, Texas Parks and Wildlife Department

When you spot a black bear in Big Bend Ranch State Park you witness the rewriting of history. By 1945 black bears Mark Lockwood were extirpated, becoming extinct in Texas. Chihuahuan Desert black bear

Beginning around 1988, capacity — too many bears Mexican black bears began and not enough resources. camping in black bear country to recolonize the Chisos This type of a migration Mountains in Big Bend bodes better for bears Keep a clean campsite at all times! Bears use their sense of smell to National Park and the because it typically find food. Cook, clean, and store all cooking utensils 100 yards away population of Texas-born coincides with consecutive from camp. Food scraps should be put with your trash and stored in a bears continues to increase. years of abundance across bear proof canister or out of reach of bears. a given area. Habitats that Practice Leave No Trace camping. When you leave, pack out all They first came back to the are in good condition are trash. Once a bear learns that campsites are a potential food source high quality habitat of the more accommodating of it can develop behavior that is dangerous to visitors and the bear. Chisos Mountains via nearby bears ignorant to the location Remember, a fed bear is a dead bear! Mexican populations. of perineal food and water Weather and climate may sources, then the bears, in If a black bear does come into your camp, don’t allow it to stay. also affect their movement. turn, are often healthier and Yell, honk your horn, make noise, but remember to keep a safe distance. Foods they rely on like more resilient to the stress YOUR SAFETY ALWAYS COMES FIRST. acorns, pinyon seeds, and that accompanies long juniper berries are less overland abundant in dry years, dispersal. hiking in black bear country causing them to move in search of other Be aware of your surroundings. Bears seek shade and water to nourishment. avoid the heat. When approaching a spring, a stand of thick vegeta- The tion or trees, or a shaded canyon, be extra cautious and make noise. migration Know before you go. Ask a ranger about recent bear sightings. Take of black extra caution early in the morning and late in the evening when bears bears back are usually active. If you encounter a bear, stay at least 100 yards to Texas away and slowly back away and leave the area. Respect the bear’s may space for your safety. If a bear approaches you, stand your ground. have Raise your arms, backpack or jacket to appear larger, speak in a loud, been firm voice. If you have bear spray, get it out and use it if the bear gets spurred too close. DO NOT RUN! This may trigger a bear’s chase instinct. If a on by bear does attack, fight back. DO NOT PLAY DEAD! populations Report all black bear encounters to a ranger as soon as possible. nearing carrying

TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT MISSION STATEMENT Big Bend Ranch State Park Fort Leaton State el SOLitarIo To manage and conserve the natural and cultural resources of Texas and to provide Sauceda Ranger Station Historic Site hunting, fishing and outdoor recreation opportunities for the use and enjoyment of 1900 S. Sauceda Ranch Road P.O. Box 2439 Editor Regional Director present and future generations. Marfa, Texas 79843 Presidio, Texas 79845 Cassie Cox Mark Lockwood Fax (432) 358-4679 Fax (432) 229-4814 You may view this and other publications through the TPWD website. Please visit Phone (432) 358-4444 Phone (432) 229-3613 www.tpwd.texas.gov/publications/. Superintendents Texas Parks and Wildlife General Superintendent Office Department Headquarters Complex Superintendent — Nathanael Gold In accordance with Texas State Depository Law, this publication is available at the 21800 FM 170 4200 Smith School Road Texas State Publications Clearinghouse and/or Texas Depository Libraries. Terlingua, TX 79852 Big Bend Ranch State Park — Keith Kinnard Austin, Texas 78744 Fax (432) 424-3404 Fort Leaton State Historic Site — Manuela Cataño (512) 389-4800 TPWD receives funds from the USFWS. TPWD prohibits discrimination on the basis of race, color, Phone (432) 424-3341 (800) 792-1112 Barton Warnock Visitor Center — Vacant religion, national origin, disability, age, and gender, pursuant to state and federal law. To request www.tpwd.texas.gov an accommodation or obtain information in an alternative format, please contact TPWD on a Text Barton Warnock Visitor Center 21800 FM 170 Telephone (TTY) at (512) 389-8915 or by Relay Texas at 7-1-1 or (800) 735-2989 or by email at Terlingua, TX 79852 [email protected]. If you believe you have been discriminated against by TPWD, please Fax (432) 424-3404 contact TPWD, 4200 Smith School Road, Austin, TX 78744, or the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Phone (432) 424-3327 Office for Diversity and Workforce Management, 5275 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 22041.

12 | el SOLitarIo | Texas parks and wildlife department