Contents provided by THE NEW SANNO

Welcome to the Pacific Staff

Ian Waddick Editor Ayako Kamio Layout Designer

Writers When in Korea 06 We’re here for you! Shoji Kudaka Takahiro Takiguchi Language guidelines 08 f you’re reading this magazine, you’ve likely already arrived The wonders of won 10 in Korea and have been welcomed to your new duty station Max D. Lederer Jr. Getting a cell phone 12 Culture Iby any number of people. Well, on behalf of the Stars and Publisher Stripes family, we’d also like to welcome you as you begin your stay in the Asia-Pacific region. No handshakes or hugs here Lt. Col. Richard E. McClintic 06 Commander Doing your DoDEA homework 16 though – just some good ol’ useful information you’re going to want to know. On-base colleges 20 Michael Davidson In this Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 magazine, we really Revenue Director try to help you as you begin your journey overseas. Curious

Education about the local food? We’ve got that covered. Need to find a new Marie Woods car? Flip a few more pages to find some of the top dealerships Publishing and Media Design Director 16 in your area. Mastering mass transit in Korea 21 And all this useful information Stars and Stripes offers Chris Carlson Space-A travel 26 doesn’t end with this magazine. Please use this as a guide to Publishing and Media Design Manager help you get settled in your new country. It’s a big change, and hopefully this can provide some help as you learn the lay of Kentaro Shimura Production Manager Transportation your new land. But, to go along with the Welcome to the Pacific magazine, Stripes also has its community newspapers that hit 21 Rie Miyoshi the blue boxes on your base every other week. Buying & registering a POV 30 Member Services Manager Local to road rules 31 Stripes Korea is there to give you the 411 on all the off-base Camp coordinates 32 events going on, the hot new water activity, or that new Area Managers café with a view that you need to see to believe. So, make sure to Monte Dauphin, /Guam grab a copy and check us out the next time you pass a blue box. Scott Wheeler, Okinawa Private vehicles Private We even cater to the clothing deficient. Need something to Rick Villanueva, Korea 30 do this weekend and you just can’t get out to grab the latest Websites worth bookmarking 33 paper? No worries. StripesKorea.com allows you to research Multimedia Consultants that next outing as you sit half naked at your computer screen. Max Genao Doug Johnson Jason Lee Hans Simpson We don’t mind. Chae Pang Yi Gianni Youn

Online At Stripes, we like to emphasize that we are community Robert Zuckerman newspapers and community websites. So, as any good 33 community does, we love to hear from you, the reader! Have a Sales Support story idea? Visit one of our websites and let us know. Better yet, Law and order on the ROK 34 Kazumi Hasegawa Hiromi Isa do you have a great story to tell? Maybe it’s about a colleague Understanding SOFA 34 Ichiro Katayanagi Yoko Noro Off-base living 36 who’s out there making the community better. Submit your Yoichi Okazaki Yusuke story and we just might publish it in the paper! Chae Yon Son Saori Tamanaha Legal Dos and don’ts with pets 37 Garbage disposal rules 37 Finally, make sure you take the time to like us on Facebook. Graphic Designers Search @StripesPacific and give us a thumbs-up and a follow to Yukiyo Oda Kenichi Ogasawara stay up to date on all the latest news relating to the U.S. military 34 Yuko Okazaki Kayoko Shimoda Exploring Korea’s true flavor community stationed in the Pacific. And make sure to keep 40 Yosuke Tsuji an eye out for our photo contests and giveaway promotions, because who doesn’t love free stuff!

Food Stripes Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 is an Ian Waddick, exclusive Stars and Stripes advertising supplement for members of the U.S. military community Publishing and Media Design Editor serving overseas. The content herein is unofficial 40 Stars and Stripes and is not to be considered as the official views The USO connects you 42 Fall 2018 of, or endorsed by, Stars and Stripes, the U.S. AFN is here to serve 46 government, or the Department of Defense. The Exploring Korea 47 advertising in this publication does not constitute endorsement by Stars and Stripes of the products

Leisure or services advertised. All rights reserved. Cover and contents may not be reproduced in whole or 42 in part without prior written permission. Email: [email protected] with questions or comments. To subscribe to Stars and Stripes, Cover photo: Namdaemun in Seoul email: [email protected]. Mailing address: Unit 45002, APO AP 96338-5002 4 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19

When in Korea A cultural lay of the land

hough affected by other window shopping, “hand phone” Asian cultures, Korean (hendeu pon) for cell phone and T culture’s roots lie deep “one shot,” a drinking term for within the creative Korean downing your drink in one quaff. psyche; it has tended to spread As with modern-day fashion, rather than be encroached upon. contemporary Korean pop mu-

Culture The delicate styling and fine sic is also heavily influenced by craftsmanship of celadon pot- the U.S. It has contributed to tery well illustrates the refine- the global rise of “K-pop” since the bow depends on the relative on cushions around a low table. ment of the culture, even from as the 1990s, which in turn has in- seniority of the two people. Many different foods are served, far back as the Three Kingdoms fluenced the West with success- When passing a gift or any each cut into bite-sized pieces. Period from A.D. 57 to 668. ful artists like Psy of “Gangnam other object to someone, use Each person has their own bowl Korea has also spawned some Style” fame. both hands and bow. The right of , but helps themselves to Education great inventors. Its first printing hand is used to pass the object, other foods directly from the systems predate Gutenberg’s, Korean names while the left is used in support. serving dishes. tradi- the famous “Turtle Ship” was Koreans place the family If the person receiving the gift is tionally use chopsticks and a the first ever iron-clad battle- name first and the given person- younger or lower in status, pass- large-bowled spoon, although ship, and the Korean alphabet, al name second. Family names ing with one hand is acceptable. today forks are also used. devised by a group of scholars are traditional clan names and Koreans believe that direct During the meal, rest your

Transportation in the 15th century, was so effec- each has a village from which it eye contact during conversation chopsticks and spoon on top of tive that it remains largely un- comes. Thus, there is a differ- shows boldness, and out of po- a dish. When you finish eating, changed today. ence between a Kim who comes liteness they concentrate on the lay them on the table to indicate Korean cultural assets to from Kyong-ju and a Kim who is conversation, usually avoiding that you have completed the UNESCO’s World Heritage from Kimhae. eye contact. meal. Never stick chopsticks or List include Chongmyo Shrine, The five most common names You will see young men walk- spoons in a bowl of rice; this is

Private vehicles Private where memorial services to the are Kim, Pa(r)k, Lee, Choi ing in the street with their arms associated with prayers for the kings of the ancient Chosun (Choe) and Oh. Because of the around each other’s shoulders dead. Also, never refill a par- Dynasty are held; the Great inconsistencies of translating and women walking hand in tially, but not completely empty Changgyong Panjion in Haeinsa names from to Roman hand. This means nothing more glass for the same reason. Don’t Temple, where Buddhist scrip- characters, spellings of these than simple intimacy. Touching worry about reaching in front of

Online ture is engraved on 80,000 names vary. For instance, Lee is close friends while talking to others or asking for a dish to be wooden panels; and Pulguksa also spelled in English as Yi and them is perfectly acceptable in passed. Temple and Sokkuram Grotto in Rhee. Korea. Koreans will touch chil- The hostess may put your gift Kyongju, which was built more If at all possible, Koreans dren to show their warm affec- aside without opening it in order than 1,000 years ago. avoid calling a person directly tion for them. This is a compli- to save you the embarrassment if Modern Korea, however, is not by their name. Instead they use ment to let the child know how your gift is small. They’ll open it

Legal without its Western influences, their title, position, trade, pro- cute he or she is. Bumping into if you politely ask. particularly from the United fession, scholastic rank or some other people while passing is At a restaurant, “going Dutch” States. For example, pizza is one honorific form such as “teacher.” mostly understood unless you is not customary – Koreans just of the nation’s favorite foreign Parents often are addressed shove him or her offensively. take turns paying, although it is foods (albeit with a Korean twist as the equivalent of “Jimmy’s If you attend a wedding or becoming more common among on toppings like corn, sweet po- mommy” or “Susie’s daddy,” funeral, it’s customary to take young people to split the check. Food tato, mayonnaise and ). rather than “Mrs. Kim.” a white envelope containing a In most hotels, a service charge Western fast food chains are also sum of money. Handing cash to is included in the bill. popular. As in the U.S., coffee- Etiquette and dining someone is considered rude, ex- Be conscious of Korean cus- houses have multiplied in recent Although many of the Koreans cept when paying a shopkeeper toms and etiquette, but don’t years resulting in the term “cof- with whom you come into for merchandise. become obsessed with adopting fice” to describe the use of cafés contact will be familiar with Dinner in a traditional Korean Korean ways.

Leisure as ad hoc office spaces. American habits and manner- home or restaurant is quite Other recent English- isms, the traditional values are different from language influences in Korean still strong. American- – or “Konglish” – include: “Eye Koreans shake hands and bow style dining. FOR MORE ON WHERE, shopping” (ai syopping) for at the same time. The depth of Guests sit AS WELL AS HOW TO DINE LOCALLY, STRIPESKOREA.COM CHECK OUT 6 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19

ㅗ

VOWELS Useful guidelines ㅣ ㅔ ㅚ ㅐ ㅏ ㅗ ㅜ ㅂ for speaking Korean i e oe ae a o u ㅓ ㅡ ㅢ ㅖ ㅒ ㅑ ㅛ ㄹ

eo eu ui ye yae ya yo he Korean written language, Hangul, is very easy for new- ㅠ ㅕ ㅟ ㅞ ㅙ ㅘ ㅝ comers to learn. Knowing how to sound out words can help ㅏ T with reading street signs, station names and names yu yeo wi we wae wa wo of businesses. Many English and other foreign words are written in Hangul in Korea. You’ll be amazed at how many signs you can read CONSONANTS and recognize English words written in Hangul. ㅖ ㅂ ㄷ ㅈ ㄱ ㅃ ㄸ ㅉ Culture like the word “way.” The letter Romanized Korean b,p d,t j g,k pp tt jj pronunciation guide “a” is pronounced as a short “a” ㅆ Consonants in Korean sound like “ah.” The letter “o” is pro- ㄲ ㅍ ㅌ ㅊ ㅋ ㅅ ㅎ similar to English consonants. nounced long like “boat.” The kk p t ch k s h Korean Generally, hard consonants in letter “u” is pronounced like in Character Korean like “k” and “p” are not as “tube.” ㅆ ㅁ ㄴ ㅇ ㄹ Education hard as in English unless a dou- The vowel combination “eo” Romanized ss m n ng r,l ble consonant like “kk” or “pp” is is pronounced like “aw” in “saw.” used. There are exceptions. The vowel combination “eu” is Vowels: The Romanized pronounced like the vowel sound “w” sound added to the begin- others when referring to certain Korean letter “i” is pronounced in “good.” The vowel combi- ning of the sound. English words. For example, the as a long “e” like “seen.” The let- nation “ui” is pronounced like Because the Roman or English letters “f” and “z” are replaced

Transportation ters “e” and “ae” are pronounced “whee.” All vowel combinations alphabet has letters that its with the letters “p” and “z,” re- with a short “e” sound like “beg.” that start with the letter “y” and Korean counterpart doesn’t, spectively such as in the words The letters “oe” together sound “w” are pronounced with a “y” or some letters are substituted for “kopi” (coffee) and “pija” (pizza).

BASIC

Private vehicles Private DAYS OF THE WEEK These ------i-deul-eun High ------Nop-eun Monday------Wol-yo-il That ------Jeo-geots-eun Low ------Naj-eun KOREAN Tuesday------Hwa-yo-il Our ------U-riui Numerous ------Man-eun Wednesday------Su-yo-il White ------Huinsaek VOCABULARY Thursday ------Mok-yo-il INTERROGATIVE Black ------Geomjeong Friday ------Geum-yo-il Who------Nu-ga Red ------Ppalgang Online Saturday ------To-yo-il What ------Mu-uts-eul Blue ------Parang GENERAL Sunday ------Il-yo-il When ------Un-je Green ------Chorok VOCABULARY * For months and dates see Why ------Wae Yellow ------Norang Water------Mul “Korean by Numbers” on page 9. Where ------Eo-di-se-o Outdoors------Bakk How ------Eo-tteo-ke VERBS Half ------Ban RELATIVE DATE Go ------Ga-da Night ------Bam Legal Today------O-neul CONJUNCTIONS Stop ------Seo-da Fire ------Bul Yesterday------Eo-je And ------Geu-ri-go Walk ------Geol-ou-ga-da Mountain ------San Tomorrow------Nae-il So ------Geu-rae-seo Run ------Da-li-da Hand ------Son This month------I-dal Or/Also ------Tto-neun Drive ------Un--ha-da Clothes ------Ot Next month------Da-eum-dal But ------Geu-reo-na Meet ------Man-na-da Sleep ------Jam Last month------Ji-nan-dal Sit ------An-dda House ------Jip

Food ADJECTIVES Stand ------I-reo-seo-da Car ------Cha PRONOUNS Light ------Ga-byeo-un Like ------Jo-a-ha-da Book ------Chaek I ------Na-neun Heavy ------Mu-geo-un Hate ------Shi-reo-ha-da Gun ------Chong My ------Na-ui Dirty ------Deor-eo-eun Depart ------Chul-bal-ha-da Knife ------Kal Me ------Na-reul Strong ------Gang-han Arrive ------Do-chak-ha-da Tour ------Gwan-gwang He/She ------Geu Weak ------Yahk-han Near ------Ga-kkap-da Hospital ------Byeong-won His ------Geu-ui Different ------Da-reun Enter ------Deu-reo-ga-da Newspaper------Shin-mun

Leisure Him ------Geu-reul Similar ------Dal-meun Go out ------Na-ga-da Bank ------Eun-haeng Her ------Geu-nyeo-ui Hot ------TTeu-geo-eun Turn on ------Kyeo-da Student ------Hak-saeng This ------i-geots-eun Cold ------Chu-eun Turn off ------Kkeu-da Cash ------Hyun-geum

8 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 I am ~ years old. Requests SOME USEFUL Nan ~ saal ib-ni-da. What time is it? Shi-gan-jom al-yeo-ju-se-yo? How old are you? KOREAN Yeon-se eo-toh-kye-dwe-shib-ni-ka? What is that? Jeo-geon mwo-jyo? How are you? PHRASES eo-toh-kye-ji-nae-sheo-sseo-yo? What day is today? O-nuel-eun mu-seun yo-il-ipnikka? Introductions/greetings Yes, I am fine. Hi/Hello Neh, Chal-iss-ub-ni-da. Please show me. An-Nyeong-ha-se-yo/ Bo-yeo-ju-se-yo. Culture An-nyeong-ha-shim-ni-kka (formal) I am just so-so. Gu-jeo-gu-reh-yo An-nyeong-hee- That’s OK. It is nice to meet you. kye-se-yo/ Gwaen-chan-ayo. Man-na-seo-ban-gop-sub-ni-da You’re welcome. It is nice to meet you / It is a pleasure Chun-man-e-yo. Education Ban-gop-sub-ni-da An-nyeong- Could you please take me there? Goodbye (if you leave) hee-ga-se-yo/ Jeo jom de-ryeo-da ju-shi-gets-seum-ni-kka? An-nyeong-hee-kye-se-yo/ An-nyeong-hee-kye-ship-shi-yo (formal) Please drop me here.

Yeo-gi se-wo-ju-se-yo. Transportation Goodbye (if someone else leaves) An-nyeong-hee-ga-se-yo/ Follow me. An-nyeong-hee-ga-ship-shi-yo (formal) Tta-ra o-se-yo.

My name is ~. I didn’t know. Che I-rum-un ~ ib-ni-da. Mo-llatss-eum-ni-da. Private vehicles

What is your name? Where is the restroom? I-rum-un mu-eo-sib-ni-ka? Hwa-jang-shil-i eo-di-jo?

Korean by numbers Pure-Korean numbers). English Pure-Korean Hangul Sino-Korean Hangul There are two separate but equally im- Time (shi gan): Use Pure-Korean for the 1 Hana 하나 il 일 Online portant groups of Korean numbers. Pure- hour (“shi”) and Sino-Korean for the min- 2 Tul 둘 ee 이 Korean numbers, generally used to denote utes (“bun”). 3:30 is “se-shi – sam-ship 3 Set 셋 sam 삼 cardinal numbers (1, 2, 3), and Sino-Korean bun,” a.m. and p.m. are “oh-jeon” and “oh- 4 Net sa numbers, generally used to denote ordinal hu,” respectively. 넷 사 numbers (1st, 2nd, 3rd). The Sino-Korean Date: Use Pure-Korean for counting the 5 Tasot 다섯 oh 오 numbers can also be written using months, but Sino-Korean for the month and 6 Yosot 여섯 yuk 육 Legal (Chinese characters). As with English, day (“il”). “Ee wol, ee-ship il” is Feb. 20. 7 Ilgop 일곱 ch’il 칠 double-digit numbers consist of one of Age: Informally or when referring 8 Yodol(p) 여덟 p’al 팔 Tasot to yourself, your children, or someone the first nine numbers and a modify- 9 Ahop 아홉 gu 구 ing prefix such as “yol”-hana (11), much younger than yourself, use Pure- 10 Yol 열 ship 십 “sumu”-tul (22), or “soren”-set Korean with the suffix “sal.” Six years 20 Sumul ee-ship (33). Similar rules apply old is “Yosot sal.” In a formal situ- 스물 이십

30 Sorun sam-ship Food for larger numbers. Net ation or when referring to some- 서른 삼십 one older, use Sino-Korean with 40 Mahun 마흔 sa-ship 사십 Number use the suffix “se.” Sixty years of age is 50 Shween 쉰 oh-ship 오십 Exceptions: In descriptive use “yuk-ship se.” 60 Yessun 예순 yuk-ship 육십 of the Pure-Korean numbers 1, 2, Counters: Pure-Korean numbers 70 Irhun 이른 ch’il-ship 칠십

usually require “counters,” words used Leisure 3, 4 and 20, the last letter is dropped 80 Yeodun 여든 p’al-ship 팔십 from the pronunciation. “Hana” becomes to associate numbers with subjects, like 90 Ahun 아흔 gu-ship 구십 “han,” “tul” is “tu,” “set” is “se,” “net” is “ne” two “sheets” (“jang”) of paper or one “bag” 100 Baek baek and “sumul” is “sumu.” (“bongji”) of groceries. A few worth remem- 백 백 1,000 Ch’eon Money: Always use Sino-Korean num- bering right away are: “Gae,” things (good 천 bers. $30 is “sam-ship bul” (“bul” or “dolla” for anything); “myeong,” people (informal); 10,000 Man 만 means dollar) and a $20 bill is “ee-ship bul” “sa ram,” person (casual); and “bun,” people 100,000 Ship-man 십만 (but when counting how many $20 bills, use (polite). 1,000,000 Baek-man 백만

Be sure to like us on Facebook! Just search for @StripesPacific 9 Culture The wonders of won A look at Korea’s colorful currency Education

orean currency can be largely divided into four coins and considered the needs of four bills, with denominations of 10, 50, 100, 500 and 1,000, the people first. Thanks to K 5,000, 10,000, 50,000 won, respectively. While traveling, this love of the people and it’s possible all you noticed is how quickly money seems to fly from his many achievements,

Transportation your hands. However, if you take a closer look at the characters and the people began to attach designs on the bills, you will be greatly surprised! There are many the title “the great” to the tiny details about the important historical figures they present and end of his name. their related tourist sites. Coins 1,000 won Like Korean bills, Korean coins also have various

Private vehicles Private Korea’s most common bill is images that represent the nation and its history. the 1,000 won in a pretty blue The smallest coin, worth 10 won, displays an image color. The front of the bill fea- of national treasure Dabotap Pagoda. This stone pa- tures flowers, a hanok building, goda is one of the nation’s most fantastic structures and and a portrait of a man, with the is located at UNESCO-designated Temple in the

Online back sporting a landscape painting of a river and wooded mountains. city of . The 50 won coin has a single stalk of rice ready for 5,000 and 50,000 won harvest, the 100 won coin fea- The 5,000 won and tures Admiral 50,000 won bills have a se- Yi Sun-shin cret that cannot be found on (1545-1598)

Legal Did You any other forms of currency who almost throughout the world! The single-hand- special point of these bills is edly defeated Know in the relationship between the invading Japanese is among the most the two figures depicted; force in the Imjin War, ? densely populated countries they are the only two fig- and the largest coin with in the world. With over 1,300 Food ures to be related as mother a value of 500 won has a people per square mile, South and son! Shin Saimdang flying crane, which was the Korea is more than 15 times that (1504-1551), featured on the symbol of scholars. In addi- of the (86). 50,000 won bill, is also the only female on Korean currency, and is tion to these four coins, there perhaps best well-known as being a good wife and wise mother. are two other coins no longer in circulation.

Leisure 10,000 won The last Korean bill to examine is the green 10,000 won – Korea Tourism Organization bill! The figure on this bill is Dynasty’s fourth king, King Sejong (1418-1450). He is known as be- COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED www.visitkorea.or.kr ing a monarch who, when it came to politics, always

10 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19

Culture

of what Korea cell providers have offers consultation in 17 different Getting connected to offer, here is a quick breakdown. languages. SK Telecom LG U+ with a cell phone SK Telecom operates several au- Formerly known as LG thorized stores with signs that say Telecom, LG U+ is owned by the ‘T World’ or ‘SK 텔레콤 (Telecom)’ LG Corporation. The company is o, you’ve just PCSd to as well as a customer call center ex- known for its G series of smart- Korea, and now you need to clusively for foreigners. Please call phones as well as a variety of other S get a new cell phone. Well, the customer center beforehand in electronics including TVs. With first off, they have those here, so order to find out which stores pro- roughly 20% of the market, the No. you’re in luck. Now, where do you vide interpretation services, since 3 mobile service in Korea trails its start? As you’ve likely already no- not all of them do. two main rivals. ticed, most bases in Korea already have a branch where you can get a Korea Telecom (KT) phone without leaving your instal- KT operates three service lation. There are definitely ben- centers throughout Seoul efits to staying on base, but just and a customer call cen- because it’s the easiest, doesn’t ter exclusively for foreign- Did You mean it makes the most sense for ers. The most representa- your situation. There are plenty tive KT center, located in of off-base locations throughout Gwanghwamun, provides the country, but if you do go this mobile phone subscrip- Know route, you might consider bringing tion manuals in foreign McDonald’s delivers in South? Korea. someone who can speak Korean. languages. Moreover, in They also serve up specialties like In Korea, there are three main pro- partnership with the vol- the Crispy Oriental Chicken Burger viders: SK Telecom, LG U+ and unteer translation service and McSpicy Shanghai Deluxe. Korea Telecom (KT). If you want organization, BBB Korea, the to weigh your options and see all Gwanghwamun service center

Hi/Hello Goodbye (to someone who is leaving) An-Nyeong-ha-se-yo/ An-nyeong-ha-shim-ni-kka An-nyeong-hee-ga-se-yo (Informal/ casual) in’ Kor > The first of these is casual while the second is An-nyeong-hee-ga-ship-shi-yo (More formal/polite) eak ea more formal and polite. p n How are you? (how have you been) S It is nice to meet you. Chal-ji-nae-sheo-sseo-yo? ( Are things going well?) Man-na-seo-ban-gop-sub-ni-da eo-toh-kye-ji-nae-sheo-sseo-yo?

It is nice to meet you / It is a pleasure My name is XXX: Ban-gop-sub-ni-da Che I-rum-un XXX ib-ni-da. Useful phrases I’m meeting you for the first time (How do you do?). What is your name? Cheo-eum-beob-gess-eub-ni-da I-rum-un mu-eo-sib-ni-ka? I-rum-un eo-toh-kye-dwe-shib-ni-ka? Goodbye (to someone who is staying) An-nyeong-hee-kye-se-yo (Informal/ casual) I am XX years old An-nyeong-hee-kye-ship-shi-yo (More formal/polite) Nan XX saal ib-ni-da

Contents provided by University of Guam

several months. The sending meet your child’s unique needs. Doing your DoDEA school can also ship records to Parents should consider how the commercial address of the limited services may impact the DODEA Pacific school. It is rec- growth and development of their homework ommended that you confirm the special needs child. DoDEA current mailing address with Pacific staff members are avail- the school. able to help parents with special he Department of Letter of Employment verifica- needs children make informed Defense Education tion along with any required and Student meal / free choices throughout the school T Activity is a K-12 updated immunization records and reduced lunch year. American school system for U.S. for each child. program You can reach out to the military, DoD civilian depen- Students preparing to enter All families with students en- District Special Education dents and other eligible families. kindergarten must be five years rolled in DoDEA Pacific schools Instructional Systems Specialist

Culture DoDEA Pacific manages schools old by Sept. 1 of the enroll- are eligible to apply for the Free (ISS) by contacting the DoDEA in the districts of Guam, main- ing school year. Proof of your and Reduced Meal Program. District Superintendent’s land Japan, Okinawa and South child’s age must be provided Completing this application is Office in the location where Korea. through documentation such as an annual requirement for fami- you are considering your next birth certificate or passport. lies, if eligible, to continue to assignment. Registration Some DoDEA Pacific schools receive either a free or reduced A very helpful source for Beginning school year offer a pre-kindergarten pro- lunch. To find the correct Free information to families can Education 2018-19, families will gram called Sure Start. The pro- and Reduced Meal Program also be accessed through the have the opportunity to register gram offers a comprehensive point of contact for your family’s Exceptional Family Member online using the new DoDEA approach to early childhood school please visit the DoDEA Program. You can easily access Online Registration System education in the areas of educa- Pacific website. this information at: www.mili- (DORS). This system will allow tion, health, social services and To pay for school lunches, taryonesource.mil/efmp perspective sponsors to com- family involvement. Contact the parents and sponsors will need

Transportation plete required documentation school directly to learn more to set up and fund a prepaid ac- Home school and include uploads of perti- about eligibility requirements count with the agency that op- support nent forms prior to arriving at and how to apply for Sure Start. erates your school’s lunch pro- DoDEA-Pacific schools the new duty location. A visit to gram. Contact your school for offer auxiliary services to eligi- the assigned school is necessary Records additional information. ble military families who choose to verify eligibility and enroll- Parents should hand- to home school their children.

Private vehicles Private ment documents, and to finalize carry all academic, im- School liaison Auxiliary services include use registration. Families may also munization and special educa- officers of academic resources, access complete their registration in- tion records if possible. Some School liaison officers to the library of the school, af- county upon arrival to the new schools may require records to can help your family with tran- ter hours use of school facili- PCS location. Contact the school be mailed. If so, send records sition issues. SLOs operate in- ties, and participation in music,

Online website for office hours. via U.S. Postal Service Priority dependently of DoD schools and sports, and other extracurricu- Currently, enrolled students Mail to the military address of have expertise in transition sup- lar and interscholastic activities. who are advancing to the next the receiving school. Sending port and advocacy for incoming Eligibility is limited to stu- grade level will need to revali- priority mail to the Pacific usu- families. Consider making con- dents who are designated as date enrollment eligibility by ally takes about seven to 10 days tact with the SLO early in your space-required (mainland providing a copy of orders or while other methods could take PCS process. Japan, Okinawa and South

Legal Korea Districts) or DoD de- Special needs pendent students eligible to children enroll in Domestic Dependent You can also visit: If your child has Elementary and Secondary DoDEA-Pacific special needs, be sure to re- www.dodea.edu/Pacific search the available support See DODEA on page 20 Food options for your desired lo- Exchange Student Meal Program cation. To the greatest ex- www.aafes.com/about-exchange/school-lunch-program/ tent possible, we follow an Exceptional Family Member Program inclusion model and work www.militaryonesource.mil/efmp to provide individualized support as needed. Let’s Move’s (nutrition and exercise tips)

Leisure However, overseas www.letsmove.gov locations may not have Tutor.com (Free online tutoring for military families) the specialized medical www.tutor.com/military or other support ser- vices necessary to fully

16 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19

University of Maryland University College: Take advantage of www.umuc.edu/military Troy University: on-base colleges www.troy.edu/military

he majority of colleges experience, and military educa- Embry-Riddle Aeronautical University: and universities offering tional programs. www.erau.edu T on-base courses will have The Defense Department has an office in your base’s education contracted colleges and universi- center with a counselor available. ties to provide in-resident college Administration/Management program are offered at: The counselors can also provide and graduate programs on mili- (graduate) programs and Air Base, Yongsan Garrison and information on scholarships and tary installations in mainland National Testing Center services. , South Korea;

Culture other financial assistance specific Japan, Okinawa, South Korea , Yokota Air to their program or school. and Guam for seven years. Troy University Base, Camp Zama, and Yokosuka Together, such colleges offer a The current contracted institu- For international relations Naval Station, Japan; and variety of training, undergradu- tions are: (graduate program). , Guam. ate and graduate programs – in- Undergraduate and Vo-Tech In-resident undergraduate cluding many online distance- Embry-Riddle Aeronautical programs are offered at 32 loca- and graduate aviation programs learning programs for those University tions throughout the Asia-Pacific are now available at: Camp Education stationed on bases where they do For aviation programs (under- region. Graduate programs are Humphreys and Kadena Air not have offices. graduate and graduate) only available at a few locations. Base. Many also have long-standing International relations gradu- Undergraduate and graduate relationships with the military University of Maryland ate programs are available at: teacher education programs are and cater to the specific needs of University College , Yongsan Garrison no longer offered in the region. service members and their fami- For high school comple- and Camp Humphreys, South Contact your education center

Transportation lies. This includes the application tion (GED), academic skills, Korea; and Kadena Air Base and to learn what in-residence and of military benefits, academic undergraduate degree pro- , Japan. distance-learning programs are credit for military training and grams, Master of Business MBA/graduate management available on your base.

Private vehicles Private Education Centers

Camp Casey USAG Bldg. S-1757 Unit 15746 Bldg. 1051 Bldg. S-1757 DSN: 730-3107 DSN: 768-7919 (Henry) DSN: 782-5148 DSN: 730-3107

Online DSN: 765-7729 (Carroll)

Fleet Chinhae Camp Humphreys Osan Air Base USAG Yongsan Bldg. 606 Unit 15592 Bldg. 789 Bldg. P2212 DSN: 762-5310 DSN: 753-3600 DSN: 784-4220 DSN: 723-8098 Legal

DODEA from page 16 communicate the desire to their com- manders in order to determine if Schools (Guam District) on a tuition-free there are any command policies Food basis. Home schoolers using or receiving or other rules ensuring that home auxiliary services must also meet the same schooling practices meet host na- Did You eligibility requirements as dependents en- tion, state, commonwealth, or ter- rolled in DODEA schools who use or receive ritory requirements. Sponsors are the same auxiliary services. Eligible home responsible for complying with Know schoolers are not required to attend a spe- applicable local requirements. In Korea, there is Birthday Age and there is Korean Age. Birthday Age is? the exact

Leisure cific number of courses to receive auxiliary Contact your local School Liaison services, including participating in extracur- Officer or command representa- same way Americans decide ages. Korean ricular and interscholastic activities. tive to learn more. Age says that you are one year old the day DoDEA encourages DoD sponsors who you are born. Then, your age increases at wish to home school their dependents to – DoDEA-Pacific the turn of each year.

20 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Culture Education Mastering mass transit in Korea Transportation

ou can get almost any- and “tuk-shil,” or special cars. where on the Korean Mugunghwa trains are yet an- Private vehicles Peninsula with minimal other step down in both speed Y Don’t forget to try the AREX for a quick train ride from effort and for a very reasonable and luxury. They cost less than price via public or private trans- Airport or Gimpo Airport to . The the Saemaeul and stop at even portation. Whether by train, taxi, more locations. When riding the bus, plane or your own privately fare is comparable to that of buses, and much cheaper Mugunghwa it’s well worth it to owned vehicle, there is an adven- pay extra for a special car, be- than taking a taxi. Incheon to Seoul should be just ture out there with your name on cause a standard-car ticket on a Online it. Here are the basics for getting about 8,000 won, which is just around $7.10. heavy travel day will likely have started. you standing in the aisles. South Korea’s mass transit Korea’s trains are comfortable system is a nearly seamless com- and offer a great way to mingle bination of planes, trains, buses The fastest and most expensive is about 58,800 with the locals. Contact your local and taxis that can get you within is the Korean Train eXpress. KTX won (about $52) for designated TMO for tickets. a short walk of nearly any desti- trains normally run at speeds up seating and 50,000 won ($44) for Legal nation, while not having to worry to 300 kilometers per hour (186 unguaranteed seating. The fare Travel by subway about parking or what might mph). KTX pricing on tickets was on the Honam Line to is Several cities operate subway happen to your POV. Seoul is the originally designed to provide an around 34,300 won and 29,200 systems and almost all signs are central hub for domestic and in- option halfway between airfares won, respectively. (Special com- in Korean and English. The ternational travel. and the lower priced trains. It is partments are 140 percent of the subway system has three lines. still a fast and economical way basic fare.) KTX fares are 15 to 30 Daegu, home to Camp Walker, Food Travel by train to travel between major cities in percent higher than the Saemaeul Camp Henry and Camp George Korea’s trains are a great al- Korea. The KTX is limited to ma- trains – the next lower level of (neighboring Camp Carroll), has ternative to air travel. They of- jor cities, so you may have to get service. two subway lines. Gwangju, in fer many more destinations and creative depending on your final Saemaeul trains offer a wider the southwest, is a great place to

traveling times than airlines. destination. range of schedules and destina- visit if you are looking to relax, Leisure Add in the time and money spent The Gyeongbu (Kyoungbu) tion choices. The KTX may get and it also has two subway lines. getting to and from airports Line starts in Seoul and ends in you from Seoul to Busan licke- Incheon’s subway system is and it makes even more sense. Busan (Pusan). The Honam Line ty-split, but its schedule is lim- connected to Seoul’s. It also has Similarly, time, cost and destina- passes through Seoul (Yongsan ited and it doesn’t stop at many an additional line. From Seoul, tion should be the three deciding Station) and ends in either popular tourist destinations. the No. 1, or Dark Blue, line goes factors for which of Korea’s three Gwangju (Kwangju) or . Saemaeul trains offer amenities basic types of trains to use. The standard fare to Busan on the such as a dining car, restrooms Continued on page 22

Head to Stripes.com to stay up to date on all breaking news 21 Continued from page 21 stops south of Seoul Station - of , ending at Sookmyung Women’s University, Yongmun. This line is handy for to Incheon, connecting to the Samgakji, Shinyongsan and getting out of town for sledding Incheon No. 1 line at Bupyeong Ichon - are all near entrances to and other winter adventures. (Pupyong.) Yongsan Garrison. Gyeongui (Aquamarine) Line: This The subway in the Seoul met- No. 5 (Violet) Line: The line runs from line begins in Seoul and ends in ropolitan area is run by the Seoul either Sangil-dong or Macheon to Munsan, out in the western cor- Subway System. Lines connected Banghwa via Gangdong. Gimpo ridor. It is a great line to use to to it from outside the city are (Kimpo) Airport is on this line, explore that area. controlled by Korean National two stops before Banghwa. Sinbundang (Brown) Line: Some Railroad. There are now 14 or 15 No. 6 (Ochre) Line: This line runs 17 kilometers long, the new a taxi stand or hail them on the subway lines in or around Seoul, from Bonghwasan to Eungam. Sinbundang line is essential- street. During rush hour or in bad depending on how you count. The stops at Itaewon and ly a shortcut from Gangnam weather expect a long wait.

Culture No. 1 (Dark Blue) Line: Trains on this Samgakji are located next to Station down to the Bundang/ If you are near a base, or if the line run from Soyosan, just north Yongsan Garrison. Seongnam area. It runs from driver works near a base, you of Dongducheon (Camp Casey), No. 7 (Olive) Line: Running from Gangnam Station in Seoul to should not have much problem to either Incheon or Seodongtan. Jangam to Onsu, this line has Jeongja Station in Bundang, with getting to your destination. If The line separates at Guro (Kuro) notable stops at Grand Children’s Yangjae, Yangjae Citizen’s Forest, not, you can get “taxi cards” from Station. Those going to – or com- Park and the Express Bus Cheonggyesan and Pangyo stops the USO. A bilingual staff mem- ing from – areas near either Osan Terminal. in between. Taking the Bundang ber will write your destination in Education Air Base or Camp Humphreys No. 8 (Pink) Line: The line runs from (yellow-orange) Line does indeed Hangul (Korean) for the driver. will need to be on the Seodongtan Amsa to Moran. There are stops get you to the same area, but it Make sure you get one for the way portion of the line. There are at Jamsil (Lotte World) and also takes longer. back as well. some trains that do not start or at Garak Market (Garak Shijang). Tipping the driver is not finish at the “terminal stations” No. 9 (Dark Yellow) Line: The line runs Travel by taxi normally expected in Korea. listed on maps, so check the des- from Gaehwa to Shinnonhyeon. In Korea, you will find taxis However, it’s also not customary

Transportation tination listed on the front and However, the major stops are very convenient and inexpensive to expect small change after pay- sides of the train. just one or two stations from the compared to many other places ing. On the other hand, drivers No. 2 (Green) Line: This line forms terminal. At one end is Gimpo in the world. There are two main who often work around military a great circle around some of the Airport and at the other is the types of taxis in Korea: the “ilban” bases are more likely to expect a best places to go in Seoul. If you Express Bus Terminal. (basic) taxi and the “mobom” small gratuity. are shopping you can get to either Bundang (Yellow-Orange) Line: (deluxe) taxi. Mobom (deluxe) taxis are nor-

Private vehicles Private the Dongdaemun (Tondaemun) Bundang is a newer commuter The ilban taxi starts at 3,000 mally dark in color and have a or Namdaemun (at City Hall city with plenty of shopping and won (about $3), while the mo- yellow sign on top. There is no Station) market areas. You can interesting places to see. Starting bom starts at 5,000 won. Rates late-night fare differential. Many get to a number of universities at Gangnam, the new Bundang start from the basic fare and go of the mobom taxis have stands or the Jamsil Sports Complex on Line, or Sinbundang, will eventu- up either by the distance trav- at major hotels, subway and bus

Online this line as well. Check the map ally end up at . eled or the time elapsed. Fares of stations. well before boarding; going the Jungaang (Light Blue) Line: This line the ilban taxis increase by 20% Many of the drivers speak some wrong direction full circuit will runs from in cen- between the hours of midnight English, or at least enough to make for a very long ride to your tral Seoul to the eastern reaches and 4 a.m. You can catch cabs at get you to and from well-known destination. No. 3 (Orange) Line: The line runs

Legal from Ogeum, south of the , to Daehwa out in the Online help to get around Korea “Western Corridor.” It will get Train how-to information, maps, routes, schedules, booking: you to Jongno 3 Ga, where there info..com/mbs/english are some good bookstores and shops selling musical instru- Bus zones, numbers, stops, fares: Food ments. It will also take you to english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/TR/korea_terminal.jsp the Express Bus Terminal and Apgujeong, a popular gathering Subway how-to information, maps, stops, fares: area for a night on the town. english.visitkorea.or.kr/enu/TR/TR_EN_5_1_4.jsp No. 4 (Blue) Line: Trains run from Northern Seoul’s Danggogae to Plane flights, schedules, booking: www.koreanair.com/local/na/gp/eng/tp/sd/eng_tp_sd.jspkr.flyasiana.com/C/en/main.do

Leisure Oido, south of Seoul. This line has stops for shopping at both Hi-Pass On Board Unit (in Korean): Myongdong and Namdaemun shopping.daum.net/main.daum (Hoehyeon Station). It also stops at Seoul Station. The four

22 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 are usually direct and efficient, bus when getting on, and then with few detours from main use the sensor at the rear door roads. when exiting the bus. Green buses run between blue bus Seoul Metropolitan Subway routes and subway lines, usually recently replaced many of its using less direct routes. Their ticket windows with automated terminal stops will be in adjacent vending machines. You can use zones. them to purchase tickets as well Red buses serve wide areas and as buy and recharge T-Money connect the outlying suburbs Cards. The vending machines are

locations. However, it would and recharged in amounts from with Seoul’s sub-centers. easy to use and have instructions Culture be wise to look for taxis with a 5,000 to 500,000 won. Yellow buses move through the in Korean, English, Chinese and “translation services available” downtown areas and shopping Japanese. Subway staff is also sticker on the side. Travel by bus districts of the metropolitan available at stations to help. It is also wise to ensure that the Bus travel is reliable and the area. They usually follow circular driver is using the meter when schedule is more convenient than routes in limited zones. Travel by plane you start your trip, unless you the trains. Some expressways Bus fares, like train and sub- Roundtrip domestic airfares Education have (willingly) agreed upon a set have bus-only lanes for peak way fares, are based on the dis- between major cities should cost price prior to starting your ride. travel times such as weekends, tance travelled. Transfer dis- less than the equivalent of $200. SOFA personnel will find rush hour and major holidays. counts are also available, but depending on when you travel Exchange taxis available on base. The bus companies also run ex- only when using a T-Money Card and which airline you use. Travel (Some bases have a limited num- tra buses on such peak days. One rather than buying tickets for agencies can often save you mon- Transportation ber of off-base taxis authorized bus fills up and pulls out, and each ride. This rechargeable card ey on airfares, while tour pack- to come on the bases.) These on- another immediately pulls in for is the easiest way to pay for bus, ages may reduce lodging costs. base taxis are very convenient and more passengers. subway and even taxi travel in Some airports, especially those make life easier in and around All major cities and most and around Seoul. It can be pur- in smaller cities such as Kunsan, bases. The prices are higher than towns in Korea have a main bus chased from subway or bus ticket offer few flights and destinations. the ilban taxis. However, they do terminal. Transportation to oth- vendors and machines. The ba- (To get to Seoul you may have to Private vehicles accept dollars and the drivers can er cities is possible via the “kosok sic charge is 3,000 won (about go to Jejudo.) You may find that answer some questions about the bus” express system. In Seoul, $2.70), and it can be recharged other means of travel better suit area. the main hub is the Gang-Nam with up to 90,000 won. your needs. Express Bus Terminal. Express As an example, if you take Airports are far from down- Travel by car buses do not have toilets on local buses and subways five town areas which, along with se- Driving around Korea has be- board, but they do make frequent times within 10 kilometers in curity checks, can increase travel come much easier with GPS sys- stops at rest areas. Seats are com- 30 minutes or less and pay the time significantly. Travel plans Online tems available in both English fortable enough for travel, but fares with T-Money, it will cost should include the time it takes and Korean. At the same time, are not quite as roomy as those only 1,050 won because the five to get to, from and through an improvements to the highway on a Greyhound cruiser. rides are counted as a single trip. airport. system have made driving less of Some buses run between cities However, if you pay cash for tick- There are plenty of places to a nightmare than it once was. on secondary roads. These de- ets following the same itinerary, visit in the Land of the Morning If you plan on spending time pendable inter-city buses make it will cost 5,750 won. To get this Calm. Why not make getting to on the highways, consider shell- plenty of stops, and are an inter- transfer discount, scan the card them part of the adventure? Try Legal ing out a little money for the Hi- esting way to see Korea. There are on the sensor at the front of the them all! Pass system to pay your tolls. Hi- also buses that run from Incheon Pass allows you to pay the tolls International Airport to key cities without having to stop and count such as Gunsan (Kunsan). out the money each time. Each city has its own bus sys- Hi-Pass requires an “On Board tem. Ask people who might know Food Unit” (OBU) and a Hi-Pass Card. or check with your local Morale, The OBU can be purchased for Welfare and Recreation Center. less than the equivalent of $20 They should have information on online and at highway business bus routes, points of interest and

offices, shopping malls and even other matters. Leisure at some highway rest stops. In Seoul, there are four dif- The Hi-Pass Card can be pur- ferent color-coded bus systems chased and charged at many (bus numbers indicate specific of the same locations. There is routes): a 5,000 won deposit required Blue buses serve major roads be- when the card is purchased, tween downtown Seoul, its out- and the card can be charged skirts and sub-centers. Routes

For more culture, travel, food and more, be sure to check out StripesKorea.com 23

Culture Space-A travel

Education A way to see the world

privilege to Uniformed Africa and Australia. The best travelers attempt to catch a hop the required documentation. For Forces personnel, their time to obtain seats is when at neighboring base terminals. instance, active duty must be on dependents, retirees, DODEA schools are in session. For example, it is not uncom- leave before they can register

Transportation A and others who support the mis- mon to travel between Ramstein for travel. Dependents of active sion, the Space-Available travel Have a back-up plan and Spangdahlem Air Bases to duty flying unaccompanied need program may be a great option Because this program is a attempt to get a seat. Or, travel- an Unaccompanied Command for seeing the world on a bud- privilege and not an entitlement, ers drive between terminals in Sponsorship from his or her get … if the timing is right. The it is imperative to understand Dover and Baltimore on a regular spouse’s commander. The letter program is nicknamed Space-A, the circumstances may change basis seeking seats. When flying is valid for one round trip travel

Private vehicles Private and although that A is short for due to mission mobility. Flying Space-A, be ready for anything. via military aircraft, describes “available,” it could also mean exactly where you want to go at Create a back-up plan and have the reason for travel and the cat- “attitude.” Learning how to navi- the time or day you want to fly available funds in case you need egory of passenger travel. The gate the program with a positive is not always possible. The first to make other travel arrange- following are also mandatory for attitude, plenty of leave and a obligation of the AMC is to fill ments and accommodations travel: military ID cards, pass-

Online back-up plan is key for a success- seats for military missions, there- when space just isn’t available. ports, social security numbers ful “hop.” fore available seating fluctuates and emergency contact informa- and could change at any time Who can fly Space-A? tion at the final destination. What is Space-A? on any part of your destination. The program was created as The Space-A program allows So, if you have a specific itiner- a way to enhance the lives of How do you register? authorized passengers to occupy ary, event or obligation waiting Uniformed Services duty per- You may register in person

Legal surplus DoD aircraft seats after all for you at your destination or sonnel by creating an avenue of at each Space-A passenger ter- space-required duty passengers on your return, you may want respite; recognize the careers of minal at either the helpdesk, or and cargo have been accommo- to reconsider using Space-A for Veterans who have served; and through self-help kiosks. You dated. Most Space-A flights are those travel plans. This program extend a privilege to other cat- may also register through email, offered through the Air Force’s is designed for those who have egories of passengers such as de- fax or online, for up to five depar- (AMC) enough available leave, time and pendents of Uniformed Services ture airports and five countries of Food or the Navy and are usually free flexibility to wait or change their personnel, Red Cross and USO destination. The website www. of charge, except for a small tax schedule. personnel who also support the takeahop.org offers a free service (usually under $30) charged per For example, it may be a mission. Passengers may not use to help you register for five depar- seat and per leg, when seats are breeze to sign up and get seats on the flights for personal gain, in ture airports as well as five coun- on commercial, the first flight, but when you try relationship to employment, to tries at the same time. Recently, flights. Common destinations to return, you could wait several find a house or for other prohib- the site rolled out both a Take-

Leisure include the Continental U.S. days for available space. Or, you ited activities. A-Hop iPhone and Android app states, Hawaii, Alaska, Germany, could even be dropped off in an- Qualified travelers of Space-A for smartphone users. For a few England, Spain, Italy, Japan and other country to wait for a flight. travel need to be sure they have dollars, you have instant access South Korea. Flights may even go Remaining calm, positive and be- completed the proper procedures to all Space-A terminal contacts, to South and Central America, ing flexible will help. Sometimes to ready for travel and also have flight information and the ability

26 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Transportation to quickly sign up for up to five PACIFIC LOCATIONS flights through your phone. You can also monitor available activ- OKINAWA NAF ATSUGI KOREA ity at the terminals through the KADENA AB Bldg. 206 OSAN AB app to save you time and keep 733 AMS, Unit 5145 Box 10 Phone: 0467-63-3118 Bldg. 648 you mobile. Phone: 634-5806 / 098-962 Facebook.com/AtsugiTerminal Phone: 315-784-6883 Once registered, your informa- 6487 Facebook.com/ tion remains active for either 60 Facebook.com/AMCKadena MCAS IWAKUNI OsanABPassengerTerminal days, or for the duration of your Bldg. 727 leave orders or authorization Phone: 315-253-5509 KUNSAN AB of flight, whichever occurs first. Facebook.com/ Bldg. 2858 Print a copy of your registration Mainland JAPAN IwakuniPassengerTerminal Phone: 063-470-4666 to keep on hand at the terminal. MISAWA AB The time and date stamp of your Bldg. 943 YOKOTA AB registration determines your po- Phone: 315-226-2370/2371 Bldg. 80 sition and priority within your Commercial: 011-81-176-77- Phone: 315-225-5660/5661/ GUAM Space-A category. 2370/2371 5662 ANDERSEN AFB Each passenger is assigned Facebook.com/ Facebook.com/ Bldg. 17002 Unit 14008 a passenger category for trav- MisawaPassengerTerminal YokotaPassengerTerminal Phone: 671-366-5165 el. These categories designate the order by which you may be boarded on Space-A flights. The Baggage requirements Check with Facebook for your fa- roll call. Remember, be travel- following list is generalized. For Passengers may check two vorite Space-A terminals. Some ready. If your name is called and a detailed list, please see the pieces of checked baggage, 70 terminals are creating fan pages you are not physically present to Space-A handbook link men- pounds each, up to 62 linear to improve accessibility and help hear the roll call and manifested tioned above: inches in size. You and your fam- travelers plan their travel. (readied for flight and allowed to Category I – Emergency travel on ily can pool your baggage allow- Available seats are now identi- travel), your name will be put at a round-trip basis in connection ances as well. Carry-ons must fied as early as five hours and as the bottom of your category list, with serious illness, death, or fit in overhead bins if they’re late as two hours prior to depar- and may not make that flight. impending death of a member available on the type of flight) or ture. Being at the terminal early of the immediate family. under your seat. Hand-carried for a flight will help you vie for Parting tips Category II – Environmental baggage must fit under the seat seats. As soon as you physically A hop flight could be either on Morale Leave (EML) and or in the overhead compartment, arrive at the terminal, visit the a military plane or commercial dependents if available. As always, it is best passenger desk to be sure you airline. If you travel on a military Category III – Active duty ordinary to travel light because due to air- are indeed registered with the plane, be aware that accommo- Leave and dependents; conva- craft or other restrictions, bag- correct date, time of registra- dations and services are differ- lescent leave; permissive TDYs; gage weight could be restricted tion and number of seats. Use ent, from fold-down jump seats Unaccompanied dependent of for your flight. your previous printed email or along the wall, cargo in front of deployed Servicemember for documentation to help correct you and a plane that is either more than a year. Getting a flight any discrepancies. Then, let the pretty warm or cool, depending Category IV - Unaccompanied Decide which terminal you desk personnel know you are in- on the time of year of travel and dependent of deployed think would be the best chance terested in available flights. Be location. Open-toed or open- Servicemember on EML status for Space-A departure and head “travel-ready” with the proper heeled shoes should not be worn Category V – Unaccompanied out. It helps to phone the termi- luggage, any dependents and on military planes. So, wear ap- military dependent of non-de- nals that you requested for de- paperwork, your car parked or propriate footwear, bring jackets, ployed Servicemember parture and monitor their recent rental returned, etc. blankets, snacks, bottled water Category VI – Retirees, Reservists departure schedules. For OPSEC and things to keep you busy, like reasons, Space-A flight schedules It’s show-time for the roll call books, games or electronic devic- were removed from many online You now wait for the “show- es. Available plugs for charging resources. However, terminals time” of the particular flight are along the walls. Remember usually record a short-term flight you’d like to be selected (mani- to stay flexible. Travel during schedule, and informa- fested) for, as well as the upcom- off-peak seasons (stay away from tion is slowly being re- ing flight’s “roll call” of names of summer break and major holi- leased by electronic those who are designated for the days) and keep a positive attitude means again. flight’s Space-A seating. Based about this great privilege. If you on the priority of your assigned look at the program as an oppor- category, the day and time that tunity to a new adventure, plan you signed up to travel and num- accordingly and have a back-up ber of available seats, hopeful- plan, you are sure to have a great ly your name makes the time, wherever you land.

Be sure to like us on Facebook! Just search for @StripesPacific 27

Buying & registering a POV on the ROK

he roads of Korea may PCS-ing out. Many are usu- • USFK 134 EK driver’s license office in the Camp Humphreys offer plenty of adventure, ally trying to sell their vehicles (POV) area) and deregister the vehicle. T but first get a car that shortly before departing. These • Valid safety inspection They will issue a bill of sale as will get you where you want to vehicles often have a sign in the At Pass & Vehicle well as a new license plate. Take go and back. window indicating their features Registration, complete the ap- it to Pass & Vehicle Registration To drive a privately owned ve- and price. Many bases have des- plication for registration and on base with the same docu- hicle (POV) in Korea, you need ignated areas for these vehicles, bill of sale. The office will cancel ments needed for a used vehicle

Culture a United States Forces Korea which are often called “lemon the old registration and trans- purchased on base. They will is- driver’s license. Active-duty per- lots.” This can be more than a fer ownership. An authority will sue a decal. sonnel, civilian employees and mere moniker. place a decal on the windshield, If you buy a new car off base, family members age 18 and old- The risk of buying a used ve- but the license plates remain the the dealer will provide you with er are potentially eligible. The hicle from a fellow SOFA-status same. a manufacturer’s certificate. It’s expiration date of USFK licenses person is that the vehicle may A more reliable option is written in Korean, but ensure depends on the person’s “date have had numerous owners, Military AutoSource (former- your name is correctly typed in Education eligible to return from overseas,” many of whom may have done ly Exchange New Car Sales). English. In the space requiring or DEROS. For military person- minimal maintenance because Vehicles come with an import your KID (Korean ID) number, nel, licenses are normally good they only planned to use it for a license and bill of sale. Take the put your Social Security num- for two years. For Department short time. Inspect it carefully. bill of sale to an O-4, GS-12, NF ber. If there are mistakes on the of Defense civilians, it’s up to There is more to check than the 4 grade or higher. Have that per- form, Pass & Registration will five years. required safety inspection items. son sign as a witness. Take the not issue a decal.

Transportation U.S. military commands in (See box on page 33) documents to the registration When delivery of the new car Korea have varying policies re- Many bases have Auto Hobby office and fill out a registration is made, a temporary license garding who may purchase ve- Centers that will inspect the ve- application. The office will issue plate will be placed on the vehi- hicles. The registration process hicle for a nominal sum before a decal and license plates. New cle. The temporary plate is nor- also varies, so check your local you buy it. They advise you of vehicles don’t require a safety mally valid for 10 days, but may restrictions. Next, determine the car’s defects before you hand inspection. You’re ready to roll be valid for up to 30 days. You

Private vehicles Private your needs and budget as well as over your hard-earned cash. The in a vehicle with a warranty, U.S. may be subject to fines if you such variables as length of duty centers can also conduct the of- specs and an English-language fail to complete the registration tour and planned frequency of ficial safety inspection and issue owner’s manual. process within that time. At the travel. the certificate needed before you Unfortunately, your “follow-on” registration office, you will need: Insurance is required prior to can register the vehicle. orders may not include vehicle • Manufacturer’s certificate

Online registering a vehicle with USFK. The benefit of buying a used shipment. It may also be difficult • Temporary license plate When purchasing, discuss your vehicle from a SOFA-status sell- to get what your car is worth if • Valid insurance policy needs in depth with an agent. er is that these vehicles are easy you are forced to leave it behind. • USFK driver’s license It’s best to have more than the to register. Go with the current Buying a used car off base is Under new rules, license minimum required coverage. owner and registration to the more complicated. Accompany plates for a new car bought off Finding vehicles to purchase Pass & Vehicle Registration of- the seller to the local govern- base or one that has been dereg-

Legal is the easy part. On U.S. military fice. You will need: ment office (Yongsan Ward of- istered must be issued by a bases, there is always someone • Vehicle insurance policy fice in Seoul, City Korean governmental authority.

Food On-base vehicle registration offices:

Yongsan Garrison Camp Kim Kunsan Air Base Camp Walker Camp Casey/Area I Bldg. 1230; Tel: 724-4811 Bldg. 590; Tel: 782-4900 Bldg. 1712; Tel: 768-6108 Bldg. 2440, Maude hall Mon – Fri: 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mon, Wed, Fri: 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Mon – Fri: 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tel: 730-4472 Tue, Thur: 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mon – Fri: 9 a.m. to 11:30 a.m.; Osan Air Base Camp Carroll 12:30 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Leisure Bldg. 765; Tel: 784-4489 Camp Humphreys Bldg. 946; Tel: 765-8575 Mon – Thurs: 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Bldg. 544; Tel: 753-6609 Mon, Wed, Fri: 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Fri: 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Mon – Fri: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Tue: 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. Thurs: 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.

30 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Private vehicles Road rules with a local twist

Every place you drive there are local “rules” not found in driver’s manuals and/or on license tests, but which should be learned for safety’s . Here are some for

Image by Sgt. Tiffany Edwards, III MEF Edwards, Tiffany Sgt. by Image Korea. • Drive defensively. There are often more cars across a road than there are lanes. And at intersections, the traffic rules Where to purchase a vehicle minutes walking distance from shows photos of the cars in its concerning lanes are some- There are many car dealers in Commissary Gate, has been extensive inventory and quotes times merely guidelines. Korea anxious for military busi- serving USFK community more prices in dollars. • Don’t get caught using bus ness, one of which is even locat- than 30 years. This facility is lanes on expressways, which ed on base. Military AutoSource not only a used car selling agent Osan Air Base Area are marked off by a . (www.militaryautosource.com), which but also a professional auto re- Sunny Auto Sales (010-6266- The fines are steep. has served the military commu- pair shop. You can have a look 8000) in Osan is a professional • The rule of thumb is that, in nity abroad for more than 45 at pre-screened used cars avail- dealer of used cars. Ask for merging traffic, the vehicle in years, offers the finest Chrysler, able right on the spot at James Sunny Park. front has the right of way. So, in Dodge, Jeep, Ram, Ford, Lincoln Garage. Call 02-796-6062 or the face of a certain tendency and Harley-Davidson vehicles to 010-3742-6062. Camp Humphreys Area toward aggressiveness by Ko- military personnel stationed, or Mr. Bill’s Cars (www.mrbillscars. OMG Motors (sites.google.com/ rean drivers, it is good practice on TDY assignment, abroad for kr.com) (010-4555-6266) is ac- site/omgmotors/services/home/omg- to yield even if you’re first. at least 30 days, through inde- tually located by Yongsan‘s motors-used-car-sales) (031-655- • Pedestrians and bicycles have pendent sales representatives Gate 6. The dealer, which has 7911), a self-styled foreign car the right of way over cars. You on 11 bases in Korea. been named Best of the Pacific specialist, is located less than don’t even have to hit anyone There are others with close by Stars and Stripes for 2008, half a mile from the main gate to get in trouble. If you scare connections to the military over- 2009, 2011 and 2012, gives its of Camp Humphreys. Though it someone on a bike and they seas, among them US Military customers personal service, started as a car repair facility, it fall, you are liable. Sales (www.usmilsales.com), sell- from finding a car to getting it has since branched out into used • Be particularly careful when ing Volvos at discounted prices. purchased and registered. It car sales. Ask for Lee, Sung Min. driving in rural areas as peo- They’re located in Seoul across keeps a complete record of in- Johnny’s Used Cars (010-536- ple’s homes exit directly on the from Gate 8 of Yongsan Army ventory on its website. 3065). Ask for Johnny Kim. street, and children often race Garrison (02-792-9393), and AceMotors (acemotors.net/ CraigsList (seoul.craigslist.co.kr/ out without thinking. The roads in Pyeongtaek-City near Osan default.asp) (011-8875-8881), cta/) is growing more popular as there are also very narrow and Air Base (031-663-2604) across located across the river from a way to find a used car in Korea. have no sidewalks, so yield at from the Asia Hotel and next Yongsan near the Gayang The well-known site lists vehi- all times. door to the Pizza Club; BMW Bridge, has been serving the for- cles for sale by owners and deal- • Get physical landmark-type Military Sales (bmwdsskorea.com) eign community since 1997. It ers, and usually displays a photo directions when driving some- (02-755-7301), near Yongsan claims to have more than 2,000 of the car as well as basic details where new as few streets have Garrison in Seoul, serving the cars on its lot, from luxury to about it. names and most houses/busi- military in Korea since 1984 inexpensive, foreign to Korean Another popular website nesses do not have addresses through Kolon Motors; and made. The firm offers to help for cars is USFK Classifieds visibly posted. Hansung Motor (www.hansung. buyers from A to Z, from getting (usfkclassifieds.co.kr/) (010-8222- co.kr/Eng/MSP.asp) (02-709-3800), your driver’s license to register- 5573), a Yongsan area dealer offering Mercedes Benz. ing the car you buy and purchas- which claims to cater specifically If you are not looking for ing insurance. It even rents cars, to U.S. Forces Korea. Its easy- a new luxury car to see you short or long term, until you buy to-use site offers looks at an through your deployment in one of your own. inventory of early to late model Korea, but want something a cut Karstart Inc. (www.karstart.co.kr/) cars priced in U.S. dollars, above what can be found in a (010-5742-5741) offers two ways with more than 200 vehicles lemon lot, here are some dealers to purchase a vehicle: from in- available at its consolidated who want your business. ventory or ordering one based dealership and with access on your requirements. It’s easy- to many more. The firm offers Yongsan Garrison Area to-use website, which lists ve- on-base pickup to the dealership James Garage, located only 2 hicles according to size and type, and full repair services.

Head to Stripes.com to stay up to date on all breaking news 31 hanks to GPS, getting lost is nearly a thing of the past. Unfortunately, Camp Twith military bases, and the sometimes countless entrance gates, find- ing your exact destination via GPS can often prove harder than it should. Below, you’ll find the exact latitude and longitude coordinates for many of coordinates the gates located in Korea. Need to find the gate near the golf course at K-16 Songnam? Just input the coordinates below (37.448649, 127.104741) into Travel base to base your GPS item of choice, and you’re sure to make that 7 a.m. tee time.

1. USAG Yongsan Gate #1 (Dragon Hill Lodge) 37.530496 (latitude), 126.984413 (longitude) 10. Suwon AB Gate #3 (Noksapeyong Station) Main Gate 37.534849, 126.983015 37.245974, 127.013330

Culture Gate #6 (Commissary Gate) 5. Camp Casey 37.527395, 126.991405 6. Camp Hovey 11. Osan AB Gate #16 (Samgakji Station) Main Gate 37.537828, 126.974749 7. Camp Red Cloud 37.079084, 127.049969 Gate #19 (Coiner Visitor Gate) 8. Camp Stanley Back Gate 1. Yongsan 37.545327, 126.978673 9. Camp Jackson 37.086756, 127.050803 2. Camp Kim

Education 3. FED Compound 2. Camp Kim 4. K-16 AB USO / AAFES Car Care Center 10. Suwon AB 37.538785, 126.973532 11. Osan AB 12. Camp Humphreys 3. FED Compound 12. Camp Humphreys Dongdaemun Anjeong-Ri Gate (Pedestrian Gate)

Transportation 37.566944, 127.005631 36.958333, 127.043611 Anjeong-Ri Gate (Main Gate) 4. K-16 AB 36.9575000, 127.0444444 Main Gate CPX VCC Gate 37.448649, 127.104741 36.9500000, 127.0380556 Songnam Golf Course 13. Camp Walker Dongchang-Ri Gate 14. Camp Henry Private vehicles Private 37.478171, 127.156384 15. Camp George 36.9691667, 127.0363889 19. Kunsan AB 16. Camp Carroll 17. Camp Mujuk Hamjeong-Ri Gate 36.9511111, 127.0183333 5. Camp Casey Dodu-Ri Gate Main Gate 18. Chinhae Naval Base 36.9619444, 126.9902778

Online 37.917666, 127.056608 Back Gate 37.925343, 127.056331 13. Camp Walker 6. Camp Hovey Gate #4 Main Gate 35.839972, 128.588496

Legal 37.898553, 127.081548 Gate #6 35.841656, 128.583400

7. Camp Red Cloud 17. Camp Mujuk 14. Camp Henry Main Gate Main Gate Front Gate 37.736000, 127.010148 35.961750, 129.422196 35.850272, 128.599680 Food Back Gate 8. Camp Stanley 35.849102, 128.604473 Main Gate 18. Chinhae Naval Base 37.718843, 127.099658 Main Gate 15. Camp George Back Gate 35.155258, 128.655048 Main Gate 37.720268, 127.091448 35.849856, 128.595182 Leisure 9. Camp Jackson 19. Kunsan AB 16. Camp Carroll Main Gate Main Gate Waegan 37.697809, 127.045197 35.925842, 126.615635 35.989317, 128.405329

32 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Websites worth Culture bookmarking while in Korea

Stripes.com and Korea.Stripes.com are great information on the . polished prose that offer valuable insights of course the most accessible sources of www.korea.net/index.jsp on all things Korea – travel, culture, art and Education military and local military community Korea 4 Expats is a cornucopia of English- more. Koreanetblog.blogspot.jp/ news, respectively. More English- and language information – from events and The Man in Seat Sixty-One is a British newspapers can be public transportation to business and daily creation devoted to travel by train, bus and accessed online via: www.w3newspapers. life – for foreigners living in the ROK. www. ferry. As such, it is a portal to sites with com/south-korea korea4expats.com this kind of travel and schedule info to and Transportation Busan Haps, if you’re visiting Busan, has Life in Korea is a great source for finding from, as well as within, South Korea. www. you covered on what’s happening there. out more about the local scene – from seat61.com/SouthKorea.htm busanhaps.com sports, shopping, travel – even food. Just 10 Magazine is more than the sum of Community Korea lets English speakers select a food type from “Grilled,” “Soups,” its parts with regularly updated events, sign up for language exchange classes, etc. for the pronunciation and specific ranging from high art and fun for the family join community events and build cross- descriptions of what you are about to enjoy. to concerts, films and nightlife. 10mag.com Private vehicles cultural friendships. This site is becoming www.lifeinkorea.com Virtual Tourist offers a lot of valuable, up- increasingly popular with the military Seoul Eats is a comprehensive collection to-date insights about a variety of locales community. www.communitykorea.com of restaurant reviews that lets users search – but few English-language sources rival Easy Korean Food is for do-it-yourselfers, and read about eateries by type of cuisine, its information on South Korea’s nightlife! offering a plethora of Korean recipes for location and price. Users can also post www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Asia/South_ those who want to cook Korean food at their own reviews. www.seouleats.com Korea/TravelGuide-South_Korea.html home. www.easykoreanfood.com Seoul Magazine, though apparently not Imagine Your Korea is the Korea Online Eat Your Kimchi is the brainchild of regularly updated, offers a wealth of articles Tourism Organization’s official site. It a Canadian couple determined to help on this city’s culture, sites, fashion, food is an inexhaustible source of detailed foreigners acclimate to South Korea via and more. www.seoulselection.com information on what The Land of the an understanding of its pop culture. www. ShipitAPO helps ensure that online Morning Calm has to offer – attractions, eatyourkimchi.com shopping is alive and well in Korea. www. natural beauty, hotels, travel, shopping and Groove Korea, as the name suggests, is shipitapo.com/home.php more. english.visitkorea.or.kr guaranteed to help those in the know get SMRT’s (Seoul Metropolitan Rapid Zen Kimchi is for those who like exploring Legal their groove on, from arts and culture to Transit) website provides details on the a country through its food. It offers news and nightlife. groovekorea.com city’s subway system including maps, fares, restaurant reviews and info on food-related Hike Korea is a great little website for timetables – even commuter etiquette. events and tours. the serious and casual hiker alike to start Choose English at the top of the homepage. zenkimchi. researching their next walkabout in the www.smrt.co.kr com Land of the Morning Calm. www.hikekorea. Templestay is a way to get away from Food com the rat race and find some inner calm by Hostels: Seeing South Korea on a participating temple life. This experience shoestring budget is a better experience if is not for everyone, but for some it is a you are well rested. In Korea you can find real vacation. eng.templestay.com Did You accommodations well below $20 per person The Jeju Weekly is more than this Leisure per night. www.hostels.com/south-Korea resort island’s only English newspaper. Hotels: In every major city and resort area It has comprehensive news and Know there are a number of hotels from which to information on all things Jeju – from The song “Gangnam Style” was the choose. This is a good place to start looking. arts, culture and conventions to tourism, ? first YouTube video to be watched www.asiahotels.com/south-korea/cities-list attractions and business. www.jejuweekly. 1 billion times. That’s billion with a Korea.Net is a government-run English com B. Now, that’s something for South site that has breaking news, features and Korea Blog is a well-honed collection of Korean musician Psy to dance about.

For more culture, travel, food and more, be sure to check out StripesKorea.com 33 hile in the Repub- by a SOFA person, brought in Law and order lic of Korea, all U.S. through the APO or obtained at W military and civil- post exchanges, commissaries, ians under the Status of Forces shoppettes and Class VI stores. on the ROK Agreement (SOFA) between Transferring includes selling, Korea and America are subject bartering, pawning, loaning and to both U.S. and Korean laws as giving a gift; however, gifts of well as U.S. Forces Korea regula- duty-free goods are permitted, if tions. While many Korean laws the gift is under $50 and is not are similar to those back home, alcohol or tobacco, was not pur- some local laws, regulations and chased from a commissary and legal customs may catch you off is not a subsistence item. Service guard. members may also be required

Culture Your base chain of command to show continued possession or or legal office should be the first lawful disposition of high-value place you go with legal questions duty-free purchases. If there or concerns. But here are a few is a question about a proposed local laws and legal customs you transfer, prior approval from the might want to consider. command should be obtained.

Education Assaults Counterfeit products In Korea, verbal altercations Many “ name” items can (shouting matches) are not un- be purchased cheaply in Korea, usual, but shoving is not toler- but they may be counterfeit; and ated. Avoid being provoked into if so, they may be confiscated pushing a Korean at all cost. when taken or mailed back to

Transportation Under Korean law, this is an as- the U.S. Personnel on leave to sault. or Southeast Asian coun- tries may be tempted to pur- Black marketing chase “bargain” goods that may U.S. regulations and Ko- be seized by Korean customs of- rean customs laws prohibit ficials if they are determined to

Private vehicles Private U.S. personnel from transfer- be counterfeit upon re-entry to ring duty-free goods to persons Korea. And there have been cas- not entitled to duty-free privi- es of Korean prosecutors seeking leges, except under limited cir- criminal indictment for smug- cumstances. Duty-free goods gling when large quantities of

Online are those imported into Korea counterfeit goods were involved.

afforded SOFA protections. the agreement and, in particular,

Legal SOFA status personnel must from any political activity Understanding what abide by Korean laws except where the SOFA explicitly su- SOFA Card SOFA means for you persedes or abridges Korean All U.S. Forces Korea person- laws. Examples are the waiver of nel should carry an HQ USFK, passport and visa requirements SOFA Card (USFK FL 1EK) at Food he United States-Republic the U.S.-ROK SOFA. U.S. civil- for active duty military person- all times. The SOFA Card is de- of Korea Status of Forces ians employed by, serving with or nel and exemptions from Korean signed to assist USFK personnel T Agreement is an inter- accompanying U.S. armed forces taxes on wages and salaries paid in the event they become involved national agreement designed to and their dependents are also to SOFA status personnel by the with Korean law enforcement of- serve the mutual interests of the covered by the U.S.-ROK SOFA. U.S. government. ficials. The ROK authorities have U.S. and the ROK, and to protect Persons in Korea to perform SOFA Article VII established agreed in cases of apprehension,

Leisure the basic rights of U.S. citizens contracts or render services ex- the principal that SOFA status to promptly notify the USFK au- who are subject to its provisions. clusively for the U.S. armed forc- personnel are obliged to respect thorities in order for the appre- Personnel of the U.S. armed es are designated invited contrac- the laws of the Republic of Korea hended person to communicate forces on active duty in Korea and tors or technical representatives. and to abstain from any activ- with a representative of the U.S. their dependents are covered by They and their dependents are ity inconsistent with the spirit of Government.

34 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Legal

Criminal court Elderly people attorney for the suspect during drivers. As a defendant in a criminal Elderly people in Korea are questioning. During question- If a driver is involved in an trial, a U.S. service member is treated with great respect and ing, persons under SOFA are accident, it will almost always not entitled to representation by service members should make entitled to the presence of an be considered his/her fault and a JAG attorney. The U.S. govern- sure to treat them likewise. Vio- U.S. representative appointed may be treated as a criminal of- ment will pay for the services of lence or abuse of the elderly is a by USFK. SOFA persons have an fense. an English-speaking Korean at- serious crime in Korea. absolute right to refuse to make In case of an accident not torney. The court will appoint a statement; and they should be involving a fatality where the an interpreter. A U.S. official will MERS quarantines highly discouraged against sign- damage or injury is paid for, the act as a trial observer to ensure A sudden outbreak of Middle ing any purported statement un- Korean government will usually that the service member receives East respiratory syndrome, or less it has been translated into not press charges unless alcohol, all the procedural safeguards to MERS, in June 2015 and wide- English. fleeing the scene, gross negli- which he/she is entitled. The De- ly flaunted quarantine rules A person subject to custody gence (extreme carelessness or partment of Defense and the De- prompted Korean authorities to upon arrest (e.g., caught in the recklessness) or another major partment of State will be notified pass a stringent new quarantine act for murder) may not be in- traffic offense is involved. The where it appears that the service law. terrogated until both a U.S. rep- command can assist the service member’s SOFA rights are not Under the law, anyone in- resentative and a lawyer repre- member in making a settlement; being granted. fected with the virus who defies senting the accused is present. and no action should be taken quarantine orders or lies to in- Statements taken without their which could aggravate the Kore- Drug stores vestigators about how they may presence are not admissible in ans. Korean drug stores and simi- have come into contact with the court. If an accident occurs, the driv- lar establishments are off-limits disease, will face up to two years Korean authorities also may er should stop immediately and to U.S. personnel. This restric- in prison or a fine of up to 20 not question an accused in cus- not attempt to flee the scene. If tion is imposed because some million won (about $18,000). tody after indictment, except the Koreans believe a driver has controlled substances under The new law also requires police about totally unrelated matters; attempted to flee the scene, they U.S. law can be purchased with- and firefighters to help enforce even then, a U.S. Representative are more likely to begin criminal out prescription in Korean drug quarantine orders. must be present. proceedings. Anyone who is in- stores. jured, or may be injured, should Police questioning Traffic accidents be transported to a hospital. The Drunk driving U.S. constitutional law and Traffic in Korea is different military police (MPs) should be Korean law concerning driving Article 31 of the Uniform Code than in the U.S. It is not un- notified immediately so they can under the influence of alcohol is of Military Justice do not apply common for children to play in conduct their own investigation. much stricter than U.S. law. A to the interrogation of SOFA the streets, people to cross the If the driver cannot gain access to blood alcohol percentage of .05 persons by Korean officials. Spe- street outside a crosswalk with- a telephone, he or she should ask percent is a violation of Korean cifically, although a suspect has a out looking or drivers to do the the Korean police to call the MPs. law. This is much stricter than right to have an attorney present unexpected. Under Korean law, the usual standard of .08 percent during questioning, the Korean drivers are responsible for the – Compiled from media and United under most U.S. jurisdictions. government need not provide an safety of pedestrians and other States Forces Korea sources

Civil court jurisdiction However, Korean civil court vice members. The U.S. has ex- lation. The U.S. always requests The Korean courts have judgments cannot be enforced if clusive jurisdiction only when no the Korean government to waive civil jurisdiction over all the cause of action arises out of crime has been committed under jurisdiction in cases involving USFK personnel regardless the official duties of USFK per- Korean law; the U.S. has primary U.S. military members where of nationality. USFK military sonnel or if a claim was paid in jurisdiction only in those limited Korea has primary jurisdiction. and civilian employees and settlement. Whenever an official instances when the alleged of- If Korea elects not to exercise their dependents can sue and Korean judicial document is re- fense is solely against the prop- jurisdiction or does not respond be sued in Korean civil courts ceived by USFK personnel on any erty or security of the U.S., is within a given time period, the in cases concerning breach of civil action, they should immedi- solely against the person or prop- U.S. military may exercise juris- a lease, support of illegitimate ately consult with a USFK legal erty of another person covered by diction. Korea is most likely to children, failure to pay just assistance officer. the SOFA or arises out of any act exercise jurisdiction over seri- debts and damages and injuries or omission done in the perfor- ous violent crimes (murder, rape, from an accident. A Korean civil Criminal jurisdiction mance of official duty. robbery, etc.), serious black-mar- court judgment generally can Your SOFA standing is not a Unless an alleged offense falls keting offenses, hit-and-run driv- be enforced against the money Get Out of Jail Free Card. Korea within one of these exceptions, ing and attempts to commit such and personal property of USFK has exclusive or primary juris- Korea has exclusive or primary offenses. personnel while in Korea or when diction over almost all offenses jurisdiction even where the of- relocated in the U.S. committed in Korea by U.S. ser- fense occurs on a military instal- – United States Forces Korea

Be sure to like us on Facebook! Just search for @StripesPacific 35 Off-base living

f you decide that base living just isn’t Joint Domicile (JD) and Military to Military (Mil for you, there are many off-base options to Mil) Statement Reminder: I understand Iavailable. But, with the option to live off that if my spouse PCS’s, retires, departs, or base comes some rules and regs to consider. separates, I am still obligated to fulfill my Here are some things to keep in mind if you lease contractually between the landlord plan to sign a lease off base. and myself at the same rent cost until ex- Renters Insurance piration of lease. As stated, if one service Your real- member remains they are contractually ob- Property manager/maintenance: • Protect yourself and your personal tor is your property manager and POC for ligated to fulfill lease to term and Military property (household goods, etc.)

Culture all maintenance problems. Your realtor is Clause does not apply to remaining service • Renters insurance may be the most the liaison between LL and you. You should member. be able to contact them whenever you need overlooked asset by residents! their assistance. It is also a requirement for Renewal lease (same unit): • Landlords have insurance, but only all realtors to speak English. • Go to your realtor – they will provide you for their buildings; Landlords are not the renewal lease (with their stamp) for responsible for protecting the renter’s Utilities: Your realtor will provide you your you to bring to HSO to renew your lease. personal property. Education utility bills and usage. Your base housing of- *Note: If you are extending your DEROS • The U.S. government does not pro- fice can translate your bills for you if needed. (ie AIP, medical etc.) bring orders/amend- vide or take responsibility for personal ments that states your new DEROS. property insurance. Lease negotiations: Once you have signed a • Off-post residents are strongly en- Leasing a different unit once current lease is up: lease in the housing office, the realtor/land- couraged to secure personal property lord and leasee cannot request changes to • Obtain realtors list from housing office (if insurance for their protection in both Transportation the signed lease. This is a signed contract! not using same realtor) private sector and on-base housing. No lease negotiations will be done outside of • Once you have found a place to live, it’s the housing office. If your realtor/landlord mandatory that you schedule a safety is asking for additional money that was not inspection at the base housing of- on your signed lease or asks to modify your fice. Once scheduled, inform signed lease in any way without approval your realtor of date and time.

Private vehicles Private from your housing office, contact housing. • Also, schedule a lease sign- ing at the housing office after Military clause: Your lease agreement will safety inspection. Either same contain a military clause. A military clause day (in the afternoon) or next Did You alerts the tenant that they are protected un- day. This is to ensure your real-

Online der the Service Members Civil Relief Act. tor provides the housing office The act provides protection, such as termi- a property deed and include Know nating a rental agreement prior to the end it with your safety inspection The number 4 is an unlucky number in of the lease term for reasons such as perma- report. ? Korea. The fourth floor is often times nent change of station, deployments exceed- • Bring clearance verification skipped in public buildings. ing 90 days, separation from active duty or from old unit (to ensure the

Legal offer of government quarters. LL cleared you!) Food Leisure

36 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Garbage disposal rules & regs

he Korean Government mandates

trash disposal and requires all resi- Culture T dents, including U.S. personnel and foreigners, comply with these laws. Failure to comply may result in severe fines (up to 1 million won). Trash must be separated into four categories: common garbage, food waste, recyclables and large waste Education items. Also, Korean garbage bags must be used. No U.S.-style bags (Hefty, Glad, etc.) or plastic shopping bags (AAFES, Commissary, etc.) can be used. Proper bags may be purchased at any off-post gro- Transportation Dos and don’ts cery store, department store (Lotte Mart, E-Mart, Home Plus), and many convenient stores, or on-post at the Commissary. with dogs and cats NOTICE: Disposing of trash, garbage, or other solid waste in on-post dump- Private vehicles rivate Sector Housing may authorize Leash law: Pets will be on a leash at all times sters by off-post pets. Always go through your LL/ when outside the housing unit. If pets are residents is strictly PRealtor (property manager) regard- outside, they must be accompanied by a PROHIBITED. ing pet information for your residence. You member of resident’s household who is ca- are also authorized pets on base. pable of controlling them at all times. Cats will not be allowed to roam uncontrolled Pet registration and must be on a leash when outside of the Online All those assigned to USFK must register housing unit. their pets with their base veterinary within 10 days of arrival. The importance of pet Fecal droppings: Residents shall clean up the YELLOW (food) registration is as follows: waste left by their pets during walks and en- • Installation Command and Housing Policy sure that common areas are not littered with • Noncombatant Evacuation Operations fecal droppings. All feces will be disposed (NEO) in the correct location of their resident ap- Legal • Heartworm area (Korea) – Keep your pet pointed areas. healthy! • Priority for sick pet appointments/well- Barking & howling: Please be aware that we ness appointments are guests in a foreign country and to con- • Routine surgeries trol your animals at the proper times of the • Boarding and doggie daycare requires day. WHITE (standard) Food medical record documentation • Preparation for PCSing from Korea Insect infestation (fleas, ticks, lice etc.): All costs associated with delousing and disin- Pet policy fecting private sector or on-base housing

Microchip program: USFK Veterinary Services will be paid by the resident. Leisure requires the mandatory implant of micro- chips in all newly acquired pets belonging Balconies: Balconies will not be used as ken- to Status of Forces Agreement personnel, in nels to house pets. Use of the balcony for all adopted animals, and in any impound- fecal droppings is prohibited and will be ed stray animal prior to releasing the pet grounds for immediate termination. Private to owner. Microchiping will be at owner’s sector residents should respect the rented expense. property of the landlord.

Head to Stripes.com to stay up to date on all breaking news 37 Contents provided by GTA

dongchimi (radish water kimchi) scooped out of a large jar half- Exploring Korea’s buried in the ground during the winter. Although its origin re- mains unclear, based on the fact that buckwheat was introduced by the Mongol Empire during the Dynasty, it is theorized that true flavor Koreans first began eating it around that time.

n Korea, there is no end to what people can see and experi- Kimchi: Over 1,500 years of fermented tradition ence, but trying Korean food is on the top of most visitor to-do Kimchi is a fermented dish made with veg- Ilists! So let’s explore some of the dishes that are sure to im- etables and a variety of seasoning ingredients. press you with Korea’s true flavor! There are over 300 varieties, but when it was first made prior to the Three Kingdoms Period Bibimbap: Rice with nutrient-packed flavor (AD 57-668), it required a very simple recipe Bibimbap, or cooked rice mixed with veg- of salting and storing napa cabbage in a ceramic

Culture etables, sautéed , and twigak (dried sea- container for fermentation. In the old days, kimchi was weed or vegetables fried in oil) is one of the an important source of vitamins in the winter, when fresh vegeta- definitive Korean dishes in the eyes of Kore- bles were unavailable. What was originally a simple salted pickle ans and also globally. There are three com- has now become a complex dish requiring assorted seasonings and mon beliefs about the origin of bibimbap. One varying according to climate, geographical conditions, local ingre- theory is that it stemmed from the practice of mixing (cooked dients, methods of preparation and preservation. rice) with other dishes used for the ancestral rite of eumbok. Oth- Education ers say that bibimbap originated from mixing leftovers together as Sundubu-jjigae: The best source of protein a midnight snack on Lunar New Year’s Eve. The last theory is that Sundubu starts out being made in the same farmers out working the fields would each bring a portion of food manner as ordinary tofu; first boiling soy- to be mixed together and divided evenly. milk then coagulating it by adding brine. But it leaves out the later steps of draining and Samgye-tang: Rejuvenate yourself during the pressing the lumpy bean curds, giving it an easy-

Transportation sweltering summer to-digest silky, light texture. In Chodang Maeul, a village famous Samgye-tang is made by simmering a for its sundubu, clean water from the East Sea is used as brine whole young chicken stuffed with ginseng, for thickening. It started when Chodang Heoyeop, a magistrate of hedysarum root, jujubes, and sweet rice. Gangneung region during the mid-sixteenth century of Joseon Dy- Considered an energy-boosting dish best nasty, discovered that the water from a spring in the front yard of eaten on hot days, it is a classic Korean dish his office tasted so fresh that he made tofu from the spring water

Private vehicles Private that has become popular among international diners as and used sea water instead of brine. The name Chodang was then well. Many restaurants even add samgye-tang to their menu dur- adopted from Heoyeop’s pen name. ing the summer, an example of its popularity. Samgye-tang is well known to foreign visitors as well. Japanese author Murakami Ryu Mandu: A dish dating back to the Goryeo Dynasty and Chinese film director Zhang Yimou have both given extensive Mandu (dumpling) is made by placing a filling of

Online praise to the dish. ground meat and vegetables onto a round, thin- ly rolled wrapper and sealing the edges. They Bulgogi: Sweet treats for special days were initially prepared for ancestral rites or Bulgogi is prepared by marinating thin slices of beef before grill- banquets and enjoyed as a special dish for ing them. In the past, the royal court and yangban cold winter days. When discussing the ori- (nobles) in Seoul called it neobiani, meaning of Korean dumplings, a famous folk song

Legal “wide meat slices.” Traditional grilled meat called “Ssanghwajeom” (dumpling shop) from the dishes in Korea originated from a dish called Goryeo Dynasty is frequently mentioned. The song describes how a maekjeok. Maek was the name of the north- group of Uighurs arrived and opened up dumpling shops, and also east region of China, and is also a reference how the people of the day greatly enjoyed the dish. Some people to , one of the earliest Korean king- refer to the song and joke that a Mongol who opened a dumpling doms. Maekjeok is made with barbecued beef shop in 1279 may have been the first foreign investor to live in Ko- Food skewers, and according to folklore, evolved into rea. present-day bulgogi through the introduction of grills, which made skewers obsolete. Galbi-: Soft and tender, the quintessential holiday food Galbi-jjim (braised short ) is made from the finest Naengmyeon: Cool and refreshing noodle soup and most expensive . As such, galbi- Naengmyeon, cold buckwheat noodles, is jjim is usually eaten on special occasions or

Leisure considered a summer food, but that wasn’t holidays, when family members come to- always the case. It used to be enjoyed over gether. Korean cooking consists of a large a warm ondol floor (subfloor heating sys- number of braised dishes that require tem) during the freezing winter tempera- considerable culinary skill. Galbi-jjim is tures. The broth was made with the brine of one such dish, growing in popularity among

40 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Food international diners as well. When making galbi-jjim, the fat on gant dish, and was always served on birthdays, weddings and 60th the is carefully removed before braising. Carrots, ginkgo birthday celebrations. Japchae was first created in the 17th century nuts and chestnuts are added, and finally pyogo (shitake mush- when King Gwanghaegun hosted a palace banquet. It is recorded room) and egg garnish are sprinkled on top to complete the prepa- in the Gwanghaegun Ilgi (Daily Records of King Gwanghaegun’s ration process. Glazed with , galbi-jjim not only has a rich Reign) that Yi Chung, one of the king’s favorites, had the habit of taste, but a mouth-watering visual presentation. personally presenting unusual dishes to the king. Gwanghaegun relished these dishes so much that he would not start a meal until Jeyuk-bokkeum: Plenty to share with while sizzling hot they arrived. Among these unique dishes was japchae, which the Jeyuk-bokkeum (spicy stir-fried pork) is one of the best-known king favored over all the rest. dishes cooked with gochu-jang. It is a stir-fried dish with thick slices of pork shoulder marinated in hot gochu-jang and minced Gimbap: A full meal in a single roll ginger. Before the 1950s, it was reportedly made using only scal- Gimbap is made by spreading white rice lion, black pepper, and soy sauce, but the current form on a sheet of gim (dried laver), layering it of gochu-jang-marinated jeyuk-bokkeum is be- with spinach, pickled radish, carrots, egg, lieved to have appeared sometime afterwards. and beef, and then rolling it up like sushi. It Because it is a hearty yet inexpensive meat was in the 1960s and 70s that the gimbap we option, young people on limited budgets favor know today - rolled up into a cylindrical form - jeyuk-bokkeum. Youngsters often list it as their became popular. This rice-roll was the default picnic favorite food, and many Korean mothers will lunch for annual spring and autumn school outings. Many Kore- talk about how their son can “finish a pound of ans fondly remember eating the end pieces of the rolls while their jeyuk-bokkeum in one sitting.” mothers prepared gimbap on the morning of school field trips.

Pajeon: Perfect pair on a rainy day Tteok-bokki: The most popular snack Pajeon (green onion pancake) is a mixture of wheat flour batter Originally, tteok-bokki was not a spicy dish. In the royal courts and scallions, shallow-fried on a griddle. It goes well with chilled of Joseon, it was prepared by simmering beef, car- dongdongju (floating rice ). Recently, restaurants specializing rots, onions, pyogo (shitake mushroom) and in pajeon have increased with the revived popularity of other ingredients together with rice cakes in (Korean ). For some reason, people associate rain with soy sauce. The colorful ingredients made it pajeon. Some say it’s because the sound of rain- visually appealing as well as nutritional. It drops hitting the ground or a window sill re- is believed that tteok-bokki seasoned with minds people of the sizzle of spattering oil spicy gochu-jang paste first appeared in the as the pajeon is fried. And, this theory may 1950s and became widely popular later during not be as far-fetched as you might think. the 1970s. According to an experiment conducted by a sound engineering lab, the two sounds Dakgangjeong: Second to none and goes with any drink have almost identical vibrations and fre- Dakgangjeong is made by deep-frying chicken coated with flour. quencies. The fried chicken is then smothered in a sweet sauce that has been boiled down to a thick con- Japchae: A classic dish on festive days sistency. The dish, sold at Jungang Market, Japchae (glass noodles with sautéed vegetables) is made by boil- is unique in that it is served cold. The dak- ing glass noodles, then draining and mixing them gangjeong is so famous because of its sweet with stir-fried spinach, carrots, mushrooms, beef and spicy taste, and despite being served cold, and onions. The term japchae is a combination it is not soggy, but crisp and chewy. of jap, meaning “mix, gather, or plentiful” and chae, meaning “vegetables.” Thus, it can be – Korea Tourism Organization translated as “assorted mixed vegetables.” No Korean festivity is complete without japchae. COPYRIGHTS ©KOREA TOURISM ORGANIZATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED www.visitkorea.or.kr It has long been perceived as a luxurious and ele- USO Camp Casey The USO connects you Building #2648 Beside the Casey Bus Terminal to family, home & country DSN: 730-4813 Hours: Mon. – Fri. 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. Sat. – Sun. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Facebook.com/CASEYUSO our service to our country can take you to the far corners of the earth, but America’s love and support Yfollow you wherever you go. The USO strengthens America’s military service members by keeping them con- nected to family, home, and country throughout their service to the nation. USO Korea is a place where you will find your

Culture “home away from home.” It is the ideal place for newcomers to get their bearings, local military families and guests to gather, for those on deployments to connect to loved ones, and for those in transit to relax and unwind. You can enjoy all the amenities provided at our five centers around the peninsula with everything from Pot Luck Mixers and Taco Night, to salsa dancing, Korean lessons and unique events like Special De- livery baby showers with What to Expect Author Heidi Murkoff (coming October 2018). USO USO Osan AB Korea offers a wide variety of free Bldg #916, across from Chili’s Education programs and services to keep DSN: 784-0469 you and your family connected to Hours: Mon. – Thurs. 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. those things you often miss while Fri. – Sun. 9 a.m. – 10 p.m. rendering service to our country. Facebook.com/USOatOSAN To see the full scope of our amenities, programs and events,

Transportation check out USO Korea website at https://korea.uso.org/ or the USO Centers’ Facebook pages. Center hours l isted below are minimal hours, and many centers also have extended hours during

Private vehicles Private exercises. Visit all five!

USO Camp Humphreys - North Rest & Relaxation Multimedia & Gaming Building #6400 Rm #H105 Air Conditioning, Cozy, Relaxing Environment DVD & Blu-ray Player, PS4, TV & Cable, Wii U, DSN: 723-5364

Online with Recliners, Couches, Beanbag Chairs and Xbox 360, Xbox One. Hours: Mon. – Fri. 8 a.m. – 5 p.m. AFN Cable Television. Sat. and Sun. Closed Connectivity Facebook.com/uso.humphreys Food & Beverages CAC Readers, Computers & Laptops, DSN Free Drinks and Snacks, Coffee & Tea, Food Phone, Charging Stations, Desk & Work Ar- Programs. eas, Printers, Wi-Fi, Print, copy, scan services, Legal Skype telephone calls.

*Amenities may slightly differ from location to location Food Leisure

Learn more about USO Korea at korea.uso.org

42 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 USO Camp Casey Building #2648 Beside the Casey Bus Terminal DSN: 730-4813 USO Camp Casey Hours: Mon. – Fri. 9 a.m. – 8 p.m. Sat. – Sun. 10 a.m. – 6 p.m. Facebook.com/CASEYUSO

USO Osan AB Culture USO Camp Humphreys North USO Camp Humphreys South Education

USO Camp Walker Transportation Private vehicles

USO Camp Humphreys - South USO Camp Walker Building #375 Building #318 Online Across the street from Across the street from the PX DSN: 753-6281 DSN: 764-4437 Hours: Mon. – Sun. 9 a.m. – 9 p.m. Hours: Daily 9 a.m. – 6 p.m. Facebook.com/uso.humphreys Facebook.com/USO.CampWalker Legal Food

VOLUNTEERS: Interested in joining an awesome family during your time away from home? We are always looking for passion- USO Mobile App: To learn about USO programs

ate volunteers at all our locations! Please and services near you, make sure to download the Leisure register online at volunteers.uso.org to join USO Mobile App, for both iPhone and Android. the team. We can’t wait to meet you!

Learn more about USO Korea at korea.uso.org Like us on Facebook

For more culture, travel, food and more, be sure to check out StripesKorea.com 43

Leisure

Here to serve the overseas American military community he (AFN) families, both on and off military installa- the network offers shore-based audience provides overseas U.S. military, tions. From mobile radio vans communicat- members eight TV services, all in high defi- T DOD civilians and their families ing to American forces advancing in World nition. Sailors afloat in the Pacific got a sig- force protection information and a touch of War II, to crucial force protection messag- nal quality boost in late 2017 as well, and, home with radio and television entertain- ing via radio and social media during ter- while not true HD, they now receive their ment, news and sports. rorist attacks, typhoons and emergencies, three services, sports, news and entertain- Our “grand daddy,” the Armed Forces Radio AFN remains a trusted source for real-time ment, with dramatically improved clarity. service, began May 26, 1942. In the years information. AFN also fielded a new decoder last winter since, America’s military broadcast network Today’s AFN stations enjoy advantages un- which enables the direct-to-home viewer to has operated under many different names, imagined generations ago. Once a single record programs to watch later. following service members wherever they channel, radio now offers a dozen different What hasn’t changed since 1942 is that AFN serve, to include war zones and U.S. Navy audio services and streams over the inter- continues to provide the most deserving ships at sea. Today, the overseas military au- net. Visit www.AFNPacific.net/AFN-360 or audience in the world with real-time force dience we serve knows us simply as “AFN.” install the AFN Pacific mobile app on your protection updates and the very best radio While millions of Americans serving over- Apple iOS or Android device. AFN Eagle ra- and TV entertainment, news and sports. Let seas have tuned in to AFN for popular en- dio also broadcasts over the air in Japan and us know what you think. Give us feedback at tertainment over the years, the network has Korea. myafn.net. Click on the feedback tab! served an equally crucial role for command- A single channel of AFN television was a ers, helping them reach the force and their huge morale boost a generation ago. Now, – George A. Smith GET UP TO DATEAT NEWS

Facebook.com/StripesPacific orea has been good to our family deal. Book a tour through the travel office Exploring both times we’ve been stationed on base or the USO. Make sure your trip K here. We have enjoyed the small includes the tunnels and the JSA. town feel of Osan Air Base; running into Gyeongbokgung (Seoul) Korea friends at the BX and Post Office daily, bik- Again we are back to ancient Korea with ing and walking everywhere and having a a visit to Gyeongbokgung. Seoul has four The top things to squadron full of people to rely on. But that palaces, but this is the biggest that allows isn’t the entire Korea experience. you to explore on your own. Changdeok- do on the ROK We’ve learned to read Hangeul, eaten gung is a close second and includes the everything imaginable and traveled almost pretty Biwon (secret garden), but must be

every inch of the peninsula. Throughout visited on a joined tour from the ticket of- Culture our experiences, it has been the interac- fice, which can be a bit prohibited for those tions with Korean people or spontaneous on a time crunch or with kids. The palace hilarity of Korean methods that make an is the first of four must-dos that are in Osan (or Yongsan, Humphreys, Kunsan or Seoul, and the Dragon Hill Lodge at Yong- Red Cloud, etc.) assignment memorable. san is my absolute favorite home base for This is a beautiful country! Get out and touring around the city. Education enjoy it. Set aside any preconceived no- N’Seoul Tower (Seoul) tions and embrace the opportunity living A trip up to N’Seoul tower at sunset is abroad has offered you. absolutely wonderful. On a clear night you So, without further waxing nostalgic, can watch the entire city light up and soak here are my top 100 things to do in Korea! up the feeling of being part of the gigantic Transportation They are triflingly organized by region. whole that is Seoul. There are a few op- One caveat before we get started: I ap- tions to get up Namsan Mountain: Taxi to preciate unique cultural experiences and the cable car, take a Namsan bus, or hike beautiful times outdoors way more than from one of the parking lots. It is not nec- urban nightlife and shopping that I can ex- essary to go up the tower for a fun experi- perience elsewhere. Visit my blog at Ram- ence, but to see the 360 views of the city it Private vehicles blingFamily.com for a Korea map with all can’t be beat. For a very special date, a visit these places, and more! to N’Grill is incredible – make reservations Also, the Official Korean Tourism Or- for 20 minutes prior to sunset. Directions ganization (KTO) has a thorough website and varying costs at www.nseoultower.co.kr and numerous ways to get involved (www. Nandaemun or Dongdaemun (Seoul) visitkorea.or.kr). The KTO also offers the Shopping is not a favorite of mine, but amazing 1330 phone number; call it any- this shopping is a cultural experience. Online time you need translation help or travel Namdaemun is an incredible collection information like bus or ferry times. of buildings and underground spaces crammed with stall after stall of vendors MUST-SEE SITES selling everything under the sun. Dongda- This is the absolute must-do list. If you emun has a gigantic fabric market nearly are brand new to Korea, these would be bursting with trendy fashion designer sub- good firsts. And if you have family come ordinates running around with lists; plus Legal visit, this list makes a great introduction two more sections feature the fashions of to the country. They are all easily acces- the day (or night) with half open daily and sible via public transport, inter-base bus, half open nightly. Namdaemun is my pick. or base travel offices. www.namdaemunmarket.co.kr Korean Folk Village Memorial (Seoul) This may shock some as the No. 1 thing Here is another sober reminder of what Food on this list, but the folk village in Yongin Korea has been through in its recent past. is a wonderful introduction to This well-done museum walks visitors culture that truly helps build an appre- through the entire history with many in- ciation for the Korean people. I love it in teractive exhibits and videos; all in mul-

the fall and spring. This place fed my ob- tiple languages. The actual memorial at Leisure session with how pre-industrial cultures the center is simplistic and very symbolic. heated their homes; ondol floors are the There is also an extensive outdoor section best. featuring vehicles and equipment, plus DMZ two very large wings with carved memorial An absolute must-do for an in-your- names of the fallen. With some parental face look at the reason our armed services N’Seoul Tower are in this country. This is it, folks, the real Continued on page 48

Be sure to like us on Facebook! Just search for @StripesPacific 47 Continued from page 47 mid-week as it gets insanely crowded on onto route 306 at a light; the trail access is at weekends. the next bridge over the river. You could even guidance and discretion, I find it appropriate Eat Korean street food follow the trail northward to the Jinwi Com- for all ages. www.warmemo.or.kr This can be done anywhere! Walk out the munity Campground and Pool. Magoksa main gate at Osan or trek to the Gwangjang This campground is open year round and Magoksa is my absolute favorite regional market in Seoul, and try it all. Dip the eomuk it makes a fun mid-week campout when it temple to visit. It is situated along a stream fish cakes, sit at a metal barrel on the plastic is completely empty, though a faint sewage near and has a very serene setting. stools and partake of and raw squid with smell wells up with westerly winds. It’s also Like all Korean Buddhist temples, the old men. Have some fried corndog goodness fun (and crazy loud) to watch the airplanes approach is part of the mindfulness involved or even go the distance and eat “pundaeggi” just overhead! The public pools are open dur- in a visit. At Magoksa, you are treated to (silkworm larva). ing summer only. Korea has numerous bike a nearly 1-kilometer forested walk along a See a Show (Seoul) paths along their rivers, including another stream. It is absolutely bursting with color There is a lot of talent and creativity in Ko- close by in Osan City and the extensive pen-

Culture in the fall. Unfortunately, public transport is rea! Go to a concert, watch a play, see the sym- insula-wide 4-rivers trail system that includes not simple to most Korean temples as they phony, or watch a non-verbal performance biking along the Han river in Seoul. You could are conventionally up in the mountains. such as Bibop, Jump or Nanta. Seoul gets even bike all the way from Seoul into the Magoksa is no different, so driving by car major acts and does excellent Broadway. Easy mountains near Chuncheon and take the sub- is best. Go south on I-1 or 39 and choose a booking at ticket.interpark.com way back, or go the distance to Busan! Visit connector to 329. The parking lot is located www.riverguide.or.kr for further details. at 36.556542, 127.020494. A close second DAY TRIPS If you would prefer using your own feet to Education choice for Korean temple is Guinsa, which has So, now you are here! This is a real assign- get into nature, then the Buraksan a steep mountainous approach, but accessible ment, treat it as such, and find your niche. Trail system is perfect and so close. There are to everyone via ITT trips. There is a lot to do in Korea that has nothing to many access points, but the closest is via a do with the downtown scene, and a significant connector trail near the city library. Exit the Seoraksan National Park truly is a gem portion of it is nearby. All of these sites are main gate, turn right and then left at the tri- in the northeastern part of the country. It worthwhile to visit and most of them can be angle, continue straight over the tracks and

Transportation features enormous granite outcroppings and seen via public transportation. Some are obvi- past the bus terminal. The trailhead is behind durable pines perched precariously high. The ously kid-specific, but Korean attractions are the city library on the right side of the road: main entrance to the park has a large temple typically both single and family friendly alike. 37.078602, 127.059540. Another great day complex and cable car up to a windswept I have taken my children to every one of these trip is the Pyeongtaek City Tour; this is a free outcropping. There are many hiking options, places. When traveling in Korea with kids, it’s day trip offered by the PIEF (Pyeongtaek In- but our favorite is in the southern portion generally easier to navigate without a stroller; ternational Exchange Foundation) six times a

Private vehicles Private along the Heullimgol Valley boardwalk trail if you must bring one, smaller is better. year to see the local sights and history in our to the Yaksuteo Ranger Station, and then Begin right outside Osan Air Base with a area (www.pief.or.kr). returning via a taxi. Note that the Seoraksan bike ride along the Jinwi river bike trail. Pedal A little further afield, up in Osan City, are camp ground is outside the park and not ideal out the Morin Gate, turn left and follow the many wonderful options for day trips (www. for trail access. I highly recommend visiting road as it curves right out of town, turn left osan.go.kr). You could take a hike around Online Legal Food Leisure

Food in Dongdaemun 48 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Leisure the cute ancient Doksanseong hilltop fortress numerous playgrounds hidden along back where views can extend down to Songtan on alleys and tucked into complex- a clear day. Nearby is the location of a more es; the Songtan International Community recent military skirmish: the UN Forces First Center park is easy walking distance out the Battle Memorial. This is the location of the front gate, through Sinjang shopping, and first battle fought with UN soldiers, mostly left along the train tracks toward the Morin American, as part of Task Force Smith during gate. the Korean War. If it is too cold or too hot, then a Kid Café There is a small, very informative and inter- is a must! Not only are the local kid cafés active museum, plus some outdoor static dis- fun for your children, but they all have free plays, a lower level remembrance park, and Wi-Fi for moms and dads, and minders to the new memorial itself. You can also (very watch the kiddos play while you sit back and cautiously) cross the street to see the original sip your coffee. In Songtan, my kids and I memorial erected in the 1955. I highly recom- prefer Kizzly for a good price, trampolines, mend seeing this place! For a different kind train table and decent food. If you have a of family day out, visit the Osan Eco Park at kid who loves trains, then a quick trip up the the southern part of the city, where you can subway to Railroad Museum will be enjoy the outdoors or go inside the tower for a highlight. exhibits on water life and views over the city. There are numerous outdoor static dis- Another highlight is the Osan Arboretum; a plays of full size locomotives, plus an indoor huge formal garden with beautiful trails, la- museum with a large model. Then there is beled trees, ponds and greenhouses. It is right the KidZania. Whew – this indoor theme across the street from the Osan College train park up in Seoul is a mini kid-centric city station and the nearby Super HomePlus with where your children can try their hand at its extra-large kids play land. While most de- numerous occupations. It’s a wild place and partment stores have kid lands for cheap bab- gets crowded, but a favorite for special occa- ysitting, this one takes the cake for sheer size place to be in evenings. If you get to the end sions. Visit www.kidzania.co.kr for specials. and options. It costs more for these features of the road, swing left and walk under the When it’s time to take the children out and is a special treat for my kids. Even with- train tracks, you will be near the 4/9 Market, and about, though, you simply can’t beat out children, this extra-large HomePlus is where the local shops are always fun to ex- ! It is our favorite amusement park worth a wander or just to visit the food court plore. On days that end in four or nine, the in Korea, and the season passes were well for lunch. area gets crammed with the colorful umbrel- worth our investment during the years we las and seasonal produce from a local farm- have lived here. If you can go mid-week, SHOPPING ers market. you will have dramatically fewer crowds. Of Speaking of shopping, there are numer- Buying seasonally is still very much a way course, it’s not just for kids and has the ab- ous options right outside the gate. First, of of life here, and it doesn’t get much better solute best wooden coaster I’ve ridden: the course, are all our friends and good neigh- than purchasing a bag of sweet potatoes from T-Express! bors who own businesses along Sinjang Shop- a little old ajuma at the 4/9 Market. In an ut- If you are ready to venture further north, ping straight out the Osan Main Gate. This ter contrast, a visit to a Korean Department then the Seoul Grand Park Zoo is a great is the place to make personal friends with store like Emart, Homeplus, or Lotte Mart is place to take the kids and has easy access talented Koreans who can sew you a custom also a worthwhile venture to explore Korean via public transportation. This place is large fitted dress or suit, create a painting you’ve groceries, see the modern appliances, and and hilly, so bring the stroller. It can be done always wanted, make that blanket, embroi- ride the moving sidewalk. Drop your kids in on a tight budget by walking to the gate, or der that bag, engrave that award, or even find the playland and eat at the food court. take the little tram, which is cheaper than that special purse you’ve been longing for. the chairlift. Even deeper into the city is It’s also a great place to shop for gifts to KID FRIENDLY the Children’s Grand Park and Zoo – where send home and traditional Korean crafts. If you do have kids, there are certainly This is where you will go for lunch and the many options for them. Off base there are Continued on page 52

Continued from page 49 accompanying indoor ski hill. So, where you can hike the coastal in the heat of summer you can be trail to visit other beaches and the the small zoo is free, the animal cool or lounge in the pool. Always large sand dunes at Sinduri. show hysterical, the playgrounds be sure to bring your swim cap to Further south, near Gunsan, large, and the amusement rides Korean pools; and suits tend to be is the Byeonsanbando National pricey (but avoidable). conservative. Park and more beaches like Gosa- A final kid-specific place in po to camp on. You can even drive Seoul that we found worthwhile ROAD TRIPS along the 33-k.m. seawall on the was the National Museum’s Chil- Now, let’s talk road trips. Korea way! For inland adventures, an dren’s Museum. There are many is small, but so big on culture and easy drive on I-1 will get you to children’s museums in Korea, but sights that it’s incredible how a . The city has some great this one was uniquely done and little weekend or weeklong road museums like the National Sci- focused on and archi- trip away from base will reward ence Museum and the Expo Park

Culture tecture; on actual items found in you. Always travel with an open Exhibits, and the Yuesong Hot the adjacent National Museum. mind and be ready to pop into Springs area on the west side of We loved it. any information booth for a map town, where you can dip your feet to find the funky attractions off in the hot water at the roadside SEOUL the beaten track. Nearly every park, or visit a sauna for a full dip. Seoul is chock full of places to province, county and even town Nearby Gyeryongsan National visit and things to do. You could has their own tourist sites. With Park has hiking trails, a camp- Education easily take a day trip to Seoul for an open schedule and a little ground, and a pretty temple to something new each weekend practice finding lodging, you will enjoy, plus there are ice climbing and occupy a year-long tour with be ready for adventure. waterfalls in the winter. If you fun outings. There are the muse- Remember, there are tourist would rather see cultural sights, ums: The National Museum, Seo- hotels (expensive and Western), travel down to Gongju, where the daemun Natural History Museum, motels / love motels (cheaper and fortress walls surround a natural

Transportation the Trick Eye Museum, themed), “minbak” (cheap home- hilltop overlooking the river. You Science Museum, and many stays) and “hanok” (traditional can hike around the entire for- Everland more. homestays that range wildly in tress and see traditional pavilions There are outdoor options price). Pack up, plan little, and be in the interior. like the Seoul Forest and hik- ready for fun. All of these places There is also an excellent Kore- ing Bukhansan. There is also can be reached by public trans- an restaurant opposite the entry.

Private vehicles Private shopping: The Flower Market, portation, but the further reaches While you are down south, the Namdaemun, Dongdaemun, will need taxi access to and from provincial forest of Chilgapsan the Christmas Market, Insadong, the nearest bus or train station. offers some great hiking and an Itaewon, Myeongdong, and the Remember, the KTO 1330 phone astronomical observatory where Antinque Market. Do it all! number can help with those de- you can spot stars and constella-

Online There are plenty of other tails! Driving is easiest. tions on clear evenings. worthwhile day trips in the vicin- ity. Suwon’s Hwaseong Fortress GO WEST THE NORTHEAST is a UNESCO heritage sight, and The western portion of Ko- Branching out and heading a fun way to spend a day walking rea is perfect for a first venture northeast in Korea means in- along the walls within the city. away from base. Though not as stant mountains-steep, tall, pre-

Legal Instead of roughing it, how about scenic as the rest of the country, cipitous and beautifully remote. visit the nearby Asan Spa? The it is close and features some of If you follow I-50 eastward, you spa is huge and rivals the famous the most family-friendly beaches can visit the highlights of a well- Dragon Hill Spa in Seoul. in the area. Follow route 34/32 touristed area with easy access Though Asan Spavis doesn’t westward to the Taeanhaean Na- via Seoul. This area can get very have an accompanying jjimjil- tional Park where you can camp crowded on weekends, especially Food bang (co-ed relaxation space) it along the beach, swim in the gen- during Korean holidays and in makes up for that with a full out- tle West Sea waters, and watch the summer. door waterpark – the hot springs the tide go out – way way out. Our go-to spot for a long week- sections of which is open year The western coast has tidal end has been, for a long time, the round. But, if a huge waterpark flats like nowhere else, which small recreation area of Ganhy- is what you are after, you have makes warmer shallow waters eon. This is a canyon with rock

Leisure come to the right peninsula; a and gentle waves for splashing climbing, camping, a river to ex- quick search on visitkorea.or.kr and play. You will also see Kore- plore, and an old railroad to walk will give you many results. Some ans digging for clams. The Gurypo along or pedal a rail bike. Rock are even indoors! campground is a perfect spot with climbing in Korea is crowded on Woongjin Playdoci even has an a nice beach edged by scenic cliffs weekends and sometimes the Everland 52 Welcome to the Pacific 2018-19 Leisure

Hansando Taebaek

Koreans’ safety is a bit sketchy, the mountain town that made us stops here, too). This zipline goes footprints along the edge of the but the opportunities are amaz- fall in love with Korean moun- 60 mph and 3,900 feet! sea cliffs, or even camp out along ing in such a mountainous coun- tains even in slushy weather. the shore. It’s a dino dream! A bit try. So bring your own gear, a This is Taebaek, a cute old mining SOUTHEAST further east along the seashore buddy to belay, and enjoy the town nestled in a crescent shaped Going southeast along I-1 can is the port town of Tongyeong, rock. valley surrounded by mountains get you to the other major city where you can board one of the Continue along I-50 to the and things to do. in Korea: Busan. But there is so famous Korean turtle boats and coast and find therough and wild There are caves to visit (the much more, with a little diver- ride a ferry out to the island of East Sea, where the mountains best being Hwanseolgul,) there sion. Choosing to go south along Hansando. There you can ex- drop into the ocean and surfers are hikes to hike (like along the I-45 can get you to the UNESCO plore (by car) the islands, stay in find their waves. The beaches Dakpoong valley,) and there are World Heritage site at Haeinsa a minbak along a pebble beach, of the east coast are small and museums to see (the Taebaek Temple. The Tripitaka Koreana, and learn about Admiral Yi, the scenic, camp-able, and chilly. Be Paleozoic Museum or Coal Mu- a full copy of Buddhist texts famous Korean naval innovator. sure to bring a wetsuit if you plan seum). In addition, this is home carved onto wooden printing to surf. From here, it’s a quick to the 02 and High1 ski resorts! blocks in the 1200s, is contained BUSAN & BEYOND jaunt up to Seoraksan National On the way east you will pass pic- within this complex. From this south area, it’s a Park and beyond it into the wilds turesque Guinsa temple; a unique Not far from Haeinsa is the old straight shot along route 2 to of the north. branch of Korean Buddhism Gaya capital; during the Three Busan. This alternate to Seoul This is where people brave the crafted this temple built along Kingdoms Period of Korean his- is known for its beach and the whitewater of the Naerincheon the edges of a steep valley. tory, a tiny fourth kingdom made nightlife in that area. Haeundae River; ITT has a flawless trip that If scenery is what you are af- its unique stamp on this central Beach is pretty, uniquely smack- is a blast! Further off the beaten ter, a ride on Korea’s O-train can’t part of the country. The largest dab in the city, and has a great track is the town of Hwacheon, be missed. Take two days and funeral mounds, and one left park along the western edge; which has quickly become a fa- ride through the tiny mountain open and excavated, are found summertime it is insanely wall- vorite of ours for nearby camp- towns, along old curvy tracks, at the Daegaya Museum. It is to-wall crowded. There are bet- ing, river activities, and a great and through tunnels galore. Stop fascinating to learn about, and ter beaches in this country, so bike trail along the scenic wa- and hike straight from the train picturesque to hike around, the what else is in Busan? terway. Even in the winter, it is to any of the tiny villages, includ- ancient tombs. Well, a walk along the old a fun place to be with its famous ing Taebaek. Stay at a minbak For camping and outdoors, city wall at Mt. Geumseong is ice fishing festival and a great ice and hop back on the train the the eastern side of Jirisan Na- certainly worthwhile for the climbing wall. next day. tional Park has trail access and views, and a visit to the Haedong There are lots of outdoor ac- It makes a loop from a wonderful campground called Yonggungsa seaside temple is tivities in Korea and ice climbing with an access link from Seoul Somakgol near a creek to play. interesting. My favorite thing is really taking off. In fact, my and Pyeongtaek. It can be It is so colorful in the fall. Con- in Busan, however, was the im- husband has said his only regret booked, with a bit of difficulty, tinuing your southerly drive will mense Hurshimchung sauna in leaving here is not starting ice from the Korail English website drop you into Goseong county with its themed pools, relaxing climbing earlier! (www.letskorail.com); have a – dinosaur country they call it rooms and cave swimming. If Korean friend help or call the Ko- – and the very informative and you visit only one Korean sauna, EAST MOUNTAINS rail number for phone booking entertaining Sangjokam County this could be it! To get deeper into the moun- (1599-7777). For a faster way to Park and Dinosaur Museum. The associated jjimjilbang is, tains, travel east along I-40, and travel, try the Jeongseon ZipRider Here is where you can, quite subsequently route 38, toward at Arii Hills resort (the O-train literally, walk in the dinosaur Continued on page 54

Head to Stripes.com to stay up to date on all breaking news 53 Leisure

Continued from page 53 National Park, a mountain oasis, backpack, and take the 2 ½-hour lenge, as you need to take a long where you can actually backpack ride ferry as it hops into ports on ferry ride from the port at Mukho however, small and easily out- into a campground. It’s only 500 other islands along the way. On just north of Donghae town. done by others. Busan is just an- meters from the parking lot, but Gwanmaedo, you can camp in You need to book ahead of other big city, so head north for the Gyeongpo campground feels the pines along the large beach time, so call the Daea Ferry Lines some culture! Near , there remote without the excessive to the left of the port, explore tide (033) 531-5891 via the KTO 1330 are ancient Korean petroglyphs tents found in typical Korean pools and cliff caves, wander the helpline. Once on , the in the Daegok Valley if you find camping. tiny roads through the village bus system is easy to navigate, that as fascinating as I do. Ko- Not far from here is Dehean and hike trails along cliff edges but most sites and the trailhead rean cavemen carved these fish Green Tea Plantation, where the to beaches unused. This is relax- are right in the port town. There and whales into the rock thou- tea bushes are lined row after ation and a Korea rarely seen! are lots of minbak available, so sands of years ago, and you can row up the steep hillsides. You booking ahead isn’t necessary or still walk up and see them today! can walk along the trails, up and KOREAN ISLANDS possible. Just go! A super museum makes a down the hills, and even visit a There are tons of other islands good introduction before driv- small grove. The drive in Korea; most famously, Jeju, MUST-DO EXPERIENCES ing out on country roads to the along route 18 south from the and it is worth the visit! Jeju is- There are many things in Ko- sights. Back north along I-1 is tourist plantation is quite scenic land has a whole other feel to it rea that have no location, but the culture capital of Korea: with other hills covered in green than mainland Korea, and while truly give you the Korean experi- Gyeongju. Here is where you will tea rows. there are kitschy attractions out ence. Here is a list of things you find a one-stop town for ancient Further west you will be ap- the wazoo, there are also some must do, and they can really be Korea. With and old fortress, proaching Jindo Island, famous legitimate sites to see. There is done anywhere on any excursion cute town center, royal tombs for its special breed of dogs. But a lava tube cave system and the – from just outside the gate, to from the Kingdom and a along the way, be sure to stop at Manjanggul cave, the mini-crater Seoul, to the farthest reaches of formal garden, you could spend the Uhangri Dinosaur Fossil Site. at Seongsan, peak bagging at Hal- the islands. Don’t stay on base! a full day wandering the ancient This is the best fossil site and lasan, orange groves, waterfalls • Stay in a minbak and a love mo- sites in this pretty UNESCO heri- dinosaur museum Korea has and the unique southern cliff pil- tel. They are so very different, tage town. Visit the museum on to offer, with gigantic fossilized lars along the coast. but require the same skills at the way in to know what you are footprints preserved in situ un- There is even a walking trail booking on the spot. A minbak looking at! der climate-controlled buildings. around the entire island if you is a room in someone’s home, There is also a sculpture park, big have that kind of time. (www. while a love motel is a super- SOUTHWEST playground, huge and high tech jejuolle.org) It is essential to themed motel that will have all Venturing to the southwestern museum, and gardens with a very have a car here, but cheap rent- the essentials for a ‘spontane- portion of the Korean peninsula large lotus pond. als can be found online to book ous’ visit. I’ve taken my whole nearly brings you back in time, This place is a dino lover’s at the airport. Not as easy as Jeju family to both; preview rooms and certainly takes you to places dream. From Jindo, Mokpo or is Ulleungdo (pronounced woo- and be wary of TV channels in rarely visited by western tourists. Wando, you can board ferries of loong-doh). This island far out in love motels. This area is mostly flat farmland all kinds to the southern islands the East Sea, is another volcanic • Go to a sauna and jjimjilbang. tilting westward into the sea, but that make up the Dadohaehae- sight to behold and a beauty of The gender-segregated saunas still has some steep mountains. sang National Park. It is the larg- nature; unlike Jeju, Ulleungdo range in fanciness from small Heading south along I-25 can est park in Korea and spans the does not have the mark of tour- local bathhouses to gigantic get you to the Juknokwang Bam- vast seaside, islands and marine ism on it. super trendy spas. A jjimjil- boo Forest in the small town of area on the southwestern coast of Instead of hundreds of over- bang is an additional co-ed Damyang. the country. You must ferry to an done attractions, you will find an area, often affiliated with a This grove of bamboo has nu- island to truly appreciate and ex- incredible coastal trail perched sauna, where you relax in dif- merous trails, a playground, and perience the park; my suggestion along the edge of the island’s ferent themed rooms in a even a small traditional village is a trek out to Gwanmae-do. cliffs, and a central valley sur- shorts and shirt uniform. Re- and is well worth a stopover. Leave the car at the dock, pack rounded by the ancient volcano’s laxation to the maximum is a Even further south is Wolchulsan up camping supplies on a cart or crater. Getting there is a chal- family event! • Buy food at the market. • Go to a cat or dog café. This Whether produce grown by a is Asia at its quirkiest. There little old lady squatting on the are a couple in Myeongdong ground or live fish from a tank, in Seoul and there’s a cat café there is nothing more Korean across from the train station in than getting super fresh in- Pyeongtaek. season food. Even better: buy it • Join a temple stay. Try either from a roaming blue truck! of these: a day visit at the Jo- • Eat Korean food. Cook your gyesa in Seoul or a weekend own “bulgogi” or “galbi,” have retreat at one of the numerous

some regional cuisine like “dol- mountain temples in Korea. Culture sat bibimbap,” and come to eng.templestay.com love all the hundreds of kimchi. • Have clothes custom made. • Stop at a highway rest stop. This is the place! For reason- Experience the incredible ser- able cost, vendors in Itaewon vice. These places have cafete- and along Songtan shopping rias, clean toilets, gas stations, road can create a special mess Education shops of all kinds, coffee shops, dress shirt, entire suit, or eve- and often massage chairs and ning gown. It will fit like a glove. kids playgrounds. They are • Join a meetup group in Seoul rest stops of the future. for fun. Get to know some peo- • Space-A off the ROK for a ple outside the military base Transportation break. Hawaii, Japan and even bubble and find some new ac- Singapore are reasonable des- tivities at the same time. www. tinations. meetup.com • Do something outdoors! This • Go to a festival. My favorite by country is insane with its far is the Lotus Lantern Festi- mountains, and the activities val in Seoul. The Hwacheon Ice Private vehicles are often considered upper- Fishing festival or class – as those folks have Mud Fest are fun regional spare time. Get out and ski, events, while the U.S.-ROK rock climb, hike, raft, camp, or Friendship Festival in Song- ice climb. tan is an absolute must-do just • Get involved locally with the outside the gate. For a crazy PIEF (Pyeongtaek Interna- time, New Year’s Eve in Seoul Online tional Exchange Foundation). is wild! Take Korean language classes, Enjoy all this little country has join a talk group, go on the free to offer; get off base and don’t let tour and encourage your child the time go by too quickly. Pil- to attend the Korean-American sung! Summer School for amazing memories. www.pief.or.kr – Kat Nicola Legal

Jeju Island Food Leisure

Jeju Island 55