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ADVANCING THE ART, SCIENCE & BUSINESS OF HOROLOGY March 2015
Oscillators Balance Endshake Adjustment
AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- Making Suspension Springs CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE The High Q Factor for Watches
Feature: Verdin Bells and Clocks
Ergonomic Watchmakers Bench IN THIS EXCLUSIVELY at Jules Borel & Co. VOLUME 39, NUMBERissue 3, March 2015 Feature Industry News BN1453 Verdin Bells and Clocks The Value of the Swiss Franc Vacuum Pressure Arm By Donna Hardy Increases Suddenly page 10 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 $ 499.00 Official Publication of the American page 28 LM90136 Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute AWCI News Handpieces CES 2015 Was Filled with Waldeman Lamp EXECUTIVE & EDITORIAL OFFICES BN1452-1 BN1452-2 President’s Message Smartwatches $ 396.80 American Watchmakers- By Fred T. White, CMW21 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Vacuum Pressure Clockmakers Institute (AWCI) page 4 page 30 $ 99.00 $ 99.00 701 Enterprise Drive Harrison, OH 45030 Executive Director’s Message SIHH 2015 Overview 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924) By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 By Aaron Recksiek, CW21 or 513-367-9800 page 5 page 32 Cover Image: Fax 513-367-1414 Street clock posts on a production line at [email protected] • www.awci.com Editor's Forum Verdin Bells and Clocks. See the feature www.facebook.com/MyAWCI By Donna Hardy Education & on page 10. Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 page 6 Certification Executive Director AWCI Educational Calendar Q & A Ext. 310 [email protected] Countdown to 2015 Annual page 8 By David Christianson, CMW21, FAWCI Meeting page 36 Donna Hardy By Terry Kurdzionak Managing Editor page 17 The REC Showcase Ext. 305 [email protected] page 33 Old-Time Resources By Jordan P. Ficklin, CW21 Kathy Ortt Affiliate Chapter News page 37 Editor page 38 Book Review [email protected] A Grand Complication Out of Beat New Members/Congrats/ Reviewed by Daniel Benson, CMW By Fred Burckhardt, FAWCI Janette Torres-Gomez Elm Trust Contributors/ page 26 page 46 Graphic Designer & Memoriam Assistant Technical Support page 45 Ext. 302 [email protected] Columns Classifieds Cindy Whitehead Technical Discussions Sit on Your Hands: Buy, Sell, Trade, and Education & Certification Coordinator Employment Opportunities Ext. 303 [email protected] Making Suspension Springs Horology Q & A By Paul Corn page 16 page 47 Maureen Seals page 18 Membership Coordinator & From the Workshop Advertisers’ Index Technical Support By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI page 50 Ext. 301 [email protected] Balance Endshake Adjustment page 34 By Dale LaDue, CMW21 Industry Advisory Board HOROLOGICAL TIMES page 22 ADVISORY COMMITTEE Members page 50 Karel Ebenstreit, Chairman, CMW, CC21 Horological Times Advertising Policy & Editorial Policy Paul Corn David Fahrenholz Advertising Policy for the Horological Times Bob Little, CC, CW The publisher reserves the right to approve all advertising copy and reject any advertisements not in keeping with the publisher’s standards. The New Robert D. Porter, CMW publisher may, at the publisher’s sole discretion and for any reason and without notice, decline to publish or republish any ad, in which case any fees Wesley Simmons submitted or paid for such ads shall be returned or rebated to the advertiser. The publisher reserves the right to edit all copy. The advertiser and/or Lower Increase efficiency and comfort Reprinting and reproduction is prohibited without written agency agree to assume liability for all content of advertisements printed. The advertiser will also accept responsibility for any claims or suits arising permission from the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers therefrom brought against the publisher. Printed articles may also be used by the publisher without permission expressly sought, or payment made, on Price! • Crank raises or lowers the desktop Institute. Copyright ©2015 by the American Watchmakers- www.awci.com, the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Facebook page, or via other media. BN1450/S Clockmakers Institute. Editorial material and letters of opinion are invited, but reflect the opinions of the authors only and do not represent the views ofthe • Armrests move up and down American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI), its directors, officers or employees. AWCI reserves the right to edit all submitted materials $ 5,200.00 • Top measures 58” x 26” Horological Times (ISSNO 145-9546) is published and is under no obligation to accept any submitted materials for publication. The appearance, reference, or advertisement of any product or service in this publication shall not be deemed an endorsement of such products, methods or services by AWCI, its directors, officers, or employees. • Height adjusts 37.5” to 47.25” monthly and copyrighted by the American Watchmakers- $ 4,795.00 Clockmakers Institute, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, OH Publisher’s Standards • Pull out breadboard at center 45030-1696. Subscription price for the public is $169.00 AWCI makes a concerted effort not to publish any advertisement which promotes or depicts practices not in harmony with our professional • Left and right Swiss vise mounts per year ($15.00 per copy). Members subscription is Standards & Practices for Watchmakers & Clockmakers. The advertisement of generic parts, tools, and materials is allowed when such $99.00 which is included with annual dues of $169.00. advertisement does not possess any trademarked image, brand, or name. Advertisers can refer to the items by name, function, quality, size, Periodicals postage paid at Harrison, OH 45030 and and description but shall not indicate that the parts are generic, aftermarket, or non-genuine. Phrases like “to fit [brand name]”, “[brand name] style”, and “generic” are not allowed. Genuine parts can be advertised as such in accordance with the advertiser’s relationship and agreement additional entries. POSTMASTER: Send address chang- with the manufacturer. es to Horological Times, 701 Enterprise Drive, Harrison, We encourage advertisers to reach out to our members and market goods & services which will help them to professionally service their Jules Borel & Co. OH 45030 clients and represent themselves in a way which will “reflect positively on him or her, on the AWCI, and the entire watch and clock repair industry, 1110 Grand Boulevard n Kansas City, Missouri 64106 including all of its participants.” – AWCI Code of Ethics Phone 800-776-6858 n Fax 800-776-6862 n julesborel.com LIKE US ON FACEBOOK! www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes 3
Horo Times Ergon Bench ad 3-15.indd 1 2/9/2015 9:35:00 AM a message from the president FRED T. WHITE, CMW21
It is with great pleasure that I welcome Mr. Tom Schomaker back to the classroom at AWCI. He brings great skills, both as a watchmaker and an instructor, to our organization. Welcome back, Tom!
“I Bargained with Life for a Penny and Life Would Pay No More.... last month’s President Message we dis- price by 25%? Now you can repair eight watches In cussed some of my experiences as an op- and make the same money. Learn to work smarter erator of a watch-repair shop for many years. and make the same or more money, depending This month let’s look at pricing our work for on the effort you wish to put into it. profitability. We all know the formula for how to How do you overcome objection to your price? look at our expenses: rent or mortgage, phone, When people bring their timepieces to you, en- auto, Internet, insurance, salaries, and various courage them to talk about the item they brought incidentals that may come up in the to you. Some of them have an interest- course of a year. But most of us for- ing history. If you get a watch that be- get to build in profit. How do you set longed to a favorite grandfather or was your prices? Is it by what you think carried through a war by this person, your competition would charge? How or many other stories that can be told, many of you are afraid to ask for the you have a more-than-likely chance of money? If you don’t ask for the mon- getting a repair job. Very few watches ey, people won’t just give it to you. bought at yard sales ever get repaired. How many times have you received a I never pressure anyone to leave a re- service or bought something and you pair job. Let them think about it. Some said to the person serving you, “Here, people experience sticker shock when take more.” (I’m not talking about a price is quoted. I always explain tips). In the auto business we had a that the watch is fully disassembled, saying, “Hang the bacon high,” or, in cleaned, reassembled, oiled, and ad- other words, ask for more money— Fred T. White justed. Also, I will point out my creden- you can always come down. [email protected] tials. If they still want to think about it, When we price our work, we should that’s okay. always ask for a fair price for our services. What Think on your feet. Many years ago a customer is a fair price? What if you price a job and when brought in a clock for repair. We looked the clock the project is finished, you lost money? Was that over and gave her an estimate of $185. (When a fair price for you? In the jewelry industry it is you give an estimate, don’t say anything until the a common practice to mark things up keystone. customer responds.) Do you mark parts up when you buy them? I’ll The very next words out of her mouth were, “Can assume that’s a yes. Good for you. Let’s assume you do it any cheaper?” My reply was, “Yes, we can, you took an hour to research and find the part. but you have to go to your boss tomorrow and tell Do you charge for that time? him to cut your salary.” I waited for her response. She Let’s assume you repair 10 watches at $250 said, “Fix it.” When you make a closing statement, for a total of $2,500. But what if you raised your wait for their answer.
...I worked for a menial's hire Only to learn dismayed, That any wage I had asked of life, Life would have paid.” ~From the poem “My Wage” by Jessie Belle Rittenhouse
4 March 2015 a message from the JORDAN P. FICKLIN, CW21 executive director
you read this, certification up-to-date and also for those As winter is com- who are aspiring for Certified Master Watch- ing to an end for most maker status. We have also added a clock of our members and class to the schedule. If you are interested spring is just a few in a clock repair class, I urge you to contact weeks away. Things Cindy Whitehead and let her know. The more are warming up. The responses we get the sooner we will be able days are getting lon- to add some additional clock repair classes ger and it is time to to the schedule. get outside. We make New Year's resolutions 2. Turn to page 17 and you will see that plans in the middle of winter, for the 2015 convention are also well under yet the spring seems way, and we have selected the beautiful Ho- Jordan P. Ficklin like a better time for tel Phillips to be our host. This year AWCI [email protected] new beginnings and meets in the Heart of America to celebrate new life. Take a mo- the rebirth of the American watchmaking ment to look at your calendar and find some spirit! Over the past few years I have seen time to increase your knowledge. Here are a so many brands appear on the market that couple of ideas to get you started: claim to be “American.” Well, as I have re- searched them, I have found a surprising 1. Turn to page 8 and you will see that we number are actually assembling watches have been hard at work adding classes to here in the United States. Some of them our educational calendar for 2015. We are are even manufacturing movements and/or pleased to announce that Tom Schomaker developing the capabilities to manufacture has returned to the AWCI classroom as our watch movements right here in the U.S.A. full-time watchmaking instructor. Among all We are reaching out to these brands and in- the classes recently added to the calendar viting them to showcase what they are doing you may notice some familiar course titles at this year’s convention. We are also inviting which are a part of our core curriculum, but them to participate in a conversation about we are also developing new courses. Some how the independent watchmakers of AWCI of these new courses are yet to be added to can support American watch manufacturing the calendar. Among those we have added and how American watch manufacturers can to the calendar are a vintage repair course support independent watch professionals. It and a new Advanced 21 class. We have a is going to make for an exciting meeting with large collection of vintage movements at more networking possibilities than we have AWCI and we will be using these in our new- ever had before. ly added vintage repair course for those who don’t work on modern product or for those 3. If you just can’t get away from the shop, who do work on modern product but wish take a look at the AWCI library catalog at to learn the specific nuances of working on awci.com/library and find at least one book vintage watches. The Advanced 21 classes that interests you. By reading just 20 or 30 are scheduled but we are still working on minutes a day on your lunch hour you can some last-minute details. These classes are finish almost any book in the library by sum- for those watchmakers who wish to earn mertime (when you’ll want to use that time Continuing Education Units and keep their to enjoy the outdoors).
Horological Times 5 HT, we’ve enlisted the help of Library contains 3,500 volumes, Aaron Recksiek. He will be writ- so finding these “old-time” ing a few pieces every month. gems is never a problem. The Editor’s Forum See pages 28 through 32 for this term “old-time” is not meant I receive emails and phone month’s installment of Industry to be pejorative. It is meant calls from readers who want News. to signal that the basics never more information about If you have an industry news change. As Jordan remarked something that was published story that you’d like Aaron in this month’s column on It’s in Horological Times or who to report on, let us know. For Timing That Counts by W. H. just want to comment on example, if you read something Samelius and Charles Purdom, what they've read. I'd like to of interest on the Internet, send “This particular book proved share these comments, ques- tions, and answers with you. the link to me at editor@awci. valuable, not for the techniques I also like to highlight what is com. If you hear or read some- it presents, but for the overall in our current issue or share thing that you’d like to know concepts shared.” news or information that more about, email me with the If you have a favorite old- will be useful to you. I look details, and we’ll find out more. time resource and would like to forward to hearing from all HT write about it for Horological readers. Times, please contact me at A Word about Two [email protected]. If you’d Donna Hardy of Our Regular like to take advantage of the Managing Editor extensive collection of materials Columns in the Henry B. Fried Library, “Old-Time Resources” contact [email protected] or call 513-367-9800. Note: If you Almost every month we run the write an “Old-Time Resources” column called “Old-Time Re- Industry News column, you will be paid 25 sources.” The purpose of “Old- cents per word and receive a Time Resources” is to introduce In our Horological Times reader 10% bonus if you submit your new watchmakers and clock- survey conducted last year, we column early or on time. We makers to printed resources that learned that Industry News— look forward to reading your have been around for a long events and changes happening “Old-Time Resources” column in time but which newcomers to now in the industry in which you an upcoming HT. work—was valuable to readers. the field may not be aware of. These events can affect you, the Seasoned professionals may “Sit on Your Hands” also find value in these old-time watchmaker and clockmaker— The purpose of “Sit on Your resources because they may now or in the future. There may Hands” is to make watchmakers have forgotten they exist, or not always be agreement on and clockmakers think before they may never have been ex- what is important or what is rel- they act. It’s meant to spark posed to them. evant or what will actually come discussion—which is one reason Jordan Ficklin started writing to pass and affect your careers we post the question on Face- these columns because of the and livelihoods (the debate over book—and to initiate deeper wealth of knowledge he found smartwatches is a case in point). thinking about why they do within the walls of AWCI head- But it’s better to know than not things the way they do them. quarters in the form of printed to know. If you would like to submit materials—everything from To improve the coverage of a question for the “Sit on Your books to service manuals to industry news in each issue of Hands” column, please contact pamphlets. The Henry B. Fried
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6 March 2015 calendar AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS - CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE AWCI is pleased to announce that Tom Schomaker is returning to the AWCI classroom as our full-time watchmak- ing instructor. Mr. Schomaker brings with him many years of watchmaking experience as well as a passion and talent for teaching. Mr. Schomaker’s return to the classroom means AWCI will be able to continue to provide high- quality continuing education for watchmakers of all skill levels. Whether you are just starting out or have 30 years’ experience we guarantee you can learn something in our state-of-the-art classroom. Together with the support of the education committee and the REC, AWCI is working to introduce classes designed to help train retail watch technicians, develop certified watchmakers, and prepare a new generation of master watchmakers.
Prices below reflect member's discount! Not sure which course to sign up for? Please log on to our website and fill out the Professional Experience Question- naire. Contact us so we can help you find the best course suited to your skill level, expertise, and interests. Don’t see the course you want here? We are always trying to expand and improve our course offerings and we welcome suggestions. We may also have a course already developed that isn’t scheduled, and we can try to accommodate you. Looking for someone to come to your business, chapter, or guild to teach a course? We do that too. Please contact our education and certification coordinator for more information. We hope to see you, your friends, and your associates in our classroom soon! March 18 timing adjustment in a mechanical watch. Cutting out home as well as determining when the clock needs $300 a balance staff on a lathe as well as modern methods. to go to the shop. The class will cover every aspect of Separate Function Case Course for Calibers used include ETA 6497 and ETA 2824. in-home servicing, from taking the initial phone call Rolex Watches to performing the actual repairs, and everything in Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 April 13-17 between. We will be examining through a series of AWCI Headquarters $1,000 photographs the most common problems encountered Harrison, Ohio The Art of Watch Adjusting: when repairing the aging modern floor-clock move- Escapement, Timing, and ment and how to correct them. We will also perform This one-day course teaches the standard operat- Oscillator Work hands-on repairs and adjustments to the modern ing procedures (SOP) for disassembly, service, and AWCI Headquarters Hermle floor-clock movement. Michael will share the reassembly of Rolex watches featuring the separation Harrison, Ohio wisdom and knowledge he has obtained over the of functions bezel. You will gain hands-on training last 36 years completing 20,000 house calls that have with the proper tools and with multiple case designs. This intense five-day course will help you refine your enabled him to troubleshoot almost any mechanical Prerequisites: CW21, WOSTEP, or instructor approval. adjusting skills. The course covers all of the adjust- problem in a matter of minutes. ments for the Swiss lever escapement, hairspring, and March 19 balance. Also covered is the ETAChron system. May 11-15 $300 $1,000 Separate Function Case Course for April 27-May 1 Advanced 21: Rolex 3035—Topics $1,000 Rolex Watches and Areas of study Essential Micromechanics: The Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters Watchmaker’s Lathe AWCI Headquarters Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Harrison, Ohio Instructor: Harrison, Ohio AWCI Headquarters March 20 Harrison, Ohio Topics Include: Identifying counterfeits, knowledge $300 of the numbering system, pre-cleaning procedures, The purpose of this class is to teach students funda- Separate Function Case Course for movement service, the regulating system, the mental micromechanical skills involving the watch- Rolex Watches automatic system, the calendar system, special case maker’s lathe. This includes preparing and sharpening Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 requirements, and water testing. Included in this gravers, basic cutting geometry, turning cylinders in AWCI Headquarters course of study is a comprehensive service manual brass & steel, drilling on the lathe, parting off, measur- Harrison, Ohio written specifically for our members to use during this ing, and will include barrel bushing manufacturing. course and as a reference for future repairs. March 23-27 $1,000 May 4-6 May 18-22 Balance Staffing & Timing $750 Servicing the Aging Modern Floor $2,495 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 CW21 Exam AWCI Headquarters Clock in the Home AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio Instructor: Michael Gainey, CC21 AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio This course will teach the student all the fundamentals Harrison, Ohio of balance staff replacement. Topics covered will include the verification and analysis of the escape- This three-day class focuses on repairs to the modern ment function, poising (static & dynamic), truing and floor-clock movement that can be completed in the
8 March 2015 AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS - CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE June 8-12 July 20-24 October 1-3 $1,000 $1,095 $499 21st Century Watchmaking The Art of Watch Adjusting; AWCI Convention Standards—Understanding the Escapement, Timing & Hotel Phillips fundamental expectations of Oscillator Work Kansas City, Missouri manufacturers, consumers, and Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 industry in modern watch repair AWCI Headquarters October 12-16 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Harrison, Ohio $1,095 AWCI Headquarters Advanced 21: Rolex Caliber TBA Harrison, Ohio This intense five-day course will help you refine your adjusting skills. The course covers all of the adjust- November 2-6 This course will teach students the fundamentals of ments for the Swiss lever escapement, hairspring, and $2,495 modern mechanical watch repair for models most balance. Also covered is the ETAChron system. CW21 Exam prevalent on the market today. Topics covered will OSU include cleanliness, lubrication, endshake adjustment July 27-29 Okmulgee, Oklahoma and may include verification and analysis of escape- $2,495 ment function. Prerequisites: Basic understanding of CW21 Exam November 9-13 manual wind watch function, knowledge of watch Lititz Watch Technicum $1,095 terminology, and ownership of basic hand tools. Lititz, Pennsylvania Advanced 21: Rolex Caliber TBA June 22-26 August 3-7 November 16-20 $1,000 $1,095 $1,350 (includes polishing kit) Quartz & Quartz Chronograph Modern Mechanical Case & Bracelet Refinishing Service Procedures & Diagnostics Chronograph—ETA 7750 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 AWCI Headquarters AWCI Headquarters AWCI Headquarters Harrison, Ohio Harrison, Ohio Harrison, Ohio Today’s luxury watch consumer demands perfection. The purpose of this course is to teach the student This course focuses on the service and adjustment of This course is perfect for the watchmaker or dedicated all the fundamentals of modern basic quartz watch modern mechanical chronographs like the ETA 7750 refinisher. It will help you achieve the different repair and quartz chronographs that are most preva- and is the perfect course for anyone preparing for the finishes on modern watch cases. Also covered is lent in today’s market. The student will learn how to CW21 Exam. Students should have a solid understand- disassembly and assembly of common watch cases. perform the various important electronic tests, e.g., ing of basic service procedures as this course will current consumption, coil resistance, lower working focus on the chronograph mechanism itself. voltage, fault finding, etc. August 17-19 July 13-17 $2,495 $1,095 CW21 Exam Modern Automatic Wristwatches North Seattle Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 Community College AWCI Headquarters Seattle, Washington Harrison, Ohio September 7-11 The purpose of this course is to teach the student all $1,095 the fundamentals of modern mechanical automatic Vintage Wristwatch Service Procedures watch repair that are most prevalent in today’s Instructor: Tom Schomaker, CMW21 market. The student will learn how to perform repairs AWCI Headquarters on the various components, cleaning, assembling, Harrison, Ohio adjustments, dialing, and casing. A new class from AWCI focusing on the unique service requirements for vintage watches. Pre-requisites: Completion of 21st Century Watchmaking Standards course, CW21, WOSTEP, or instructor approval.
For additional details about specific courses in comprehensive syllabi form, including complete tool lists, visit: http://www.awci.com/education-certification/education2/list-of-continuing-education-courses/ or contact Cindy Whitehead at 866-FOR-AWCI (367-2924), ext. 303.
Horological Times 9 Feature: Verdin Bells and Clocks Verdin Bells and Clocks By Donna Hardy
oday most people can check the Ttime of day on their cell phone or with a quick glance at their wristwatch. But in the days long before cell phones and when owning a wristwatch was too expensive for the average citizen, street clocks and tower clocks told the time for everyone. Often the village jeweler provided the clock for the benefit of the whole community. While these time- pieces are not necessary today, they still provide a focal point and a gather- ing place for a town, a community, or a college campus. They serve as land- marks and add charm to a location. One of the oldest manufacturers of street clocks and tower clocks is the Verdin Company in Cincinnati, Ohio, about 20 miles from AWCI’s headquar- ters. They also produce cast bronze bells, carillons, electronic digital bells,
A Verdin-manufactured, four-face street clock in Wabasha, Minnesota
10 March 2015 When you are not sure if you can get parts: Visit AWCI’s Brand Directory
awci.com/brand-directory
Creating our new Directory of Spare Parts Policies watchmakers, please take the time to explain to the was hard work. The committee spent many long representative that in a recent survey they report- hours on the phone with watch brands to get the ed to the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers responses you see at awci.com—and the work is Institute that they sold parts to watchmakers. not done. This directory is a dynamic list, and the Mention the name of the individual who gave the committee continues to reach out to brands in an survey responses. If you still do not get the same effort to complete the list. results, ask them if they would like to submit new When members of the watch-collecting com- responses to the survey. Please report your find- munity visit the directory, they will see critical in- ings to AWCI. formation to help them make an informed decision A link to the directory appears on the AWCI about purchasing a watch based on the brand’s home page so that consumers can openly see after-sales service and spare parts policies. As a which brands support independent repairpersons. member of AWCI, when you log in to the webpage, Brand representatives who feel their company has you will see the complete survey responses and been misrepresented should contact AWCI so that contact information. we can accurately report their company’s policies. We do not list brands in this directory until they have been given ample opportunity to respond to the survey. Once we have recorded their responses, the results immediately appear on our web page. Brands that decline to participate in the survey will appear in the directory with a note indicating their refusal to participate. We hope this directory will be a valuable tool in your workshop. When you see a brand that isn’t on the list, we would like your help. A blank copy of the full survey is available at awci.com. Please take every opportunity to ask watch brands to partici- pate in the survey. Record your responses and send them to AWCI so we can update our directory. We know that sometimes you will have an expe- rience that conflicts with what a particular brand reported in their survey results. Use this directory as a tool. When you are told you cannot order parts for a brand that has indicated they sell parts to Column: Sit on Your Hands Sit on Your Hands: Horology Q&A Below is the question asked in January. QWhat is/are your goal(s) for a repair? Technically, aesthetically, etc.? Here are some answers we received—
A wise watchmaker once said, “You should sit on your hands.” Ninety percent of watchmaking should be done I try to make the piece run as its maker with your hands away from the movement, and 10% is intended. I sometimes will have dials, re- actually manipulating the watch. Good watchmakers and verse glass paintings restored by profes- clockmakers think about what they are doing more than sional craftsmen (and women). Not every they actually do it. clock requires museum conservation. —Wendell Sharp The Next Question Always strive to leave the piece in a bet- ter condition than when it arrived. I main- What material do you prefer your tweezers to be and why? ly focus on the mechanical performance. I don't do refinishing of cases, dials, and the like. —Rasmus Korner Henriksen Please submit your response to [email protected] by April 2. Join us on Facebook—facebook.com/MyAWCI I prefer to act in the role of conservator. or facebook.com/horologicaltimes, where we will post —Wesley Grau the next question the first of every month. If you haven't liked Horological Times yet, do it now! And here is an answer from the perspective You can also look for the next question in the email news- of a watch collector who left this comment letter, which goes out the first week of every month. on our Facebook page. Your name will be entered in a drawing to win a prize This is a great question and it directly ap- from our grab bag of horological treasures. plies to a current situation I find myself in. I have a watch that my father gave CONGRATULATIONS to Wendell Sharp, whose name was drawn at ran- me some years ago. It's a Seiko automat- dom to win this month’s prize: Organizing Your Work Habits for Success, a ic chronograph. It needs a restoration. I DVD by Bob Ockenden, and Striking Clocks: A Hands-On Survey for the Clock- don't know if I should have it restored to maker, by Joseph G. Baier, Ph.D., CMW, CMC. its original condition or leave the case as it is, get a display case back and a newer bracelet. Getting the movement restored correctly is no question. However, the current condition of the case and crystal have that certain je ne sais quoi. I think it could be fun to leave it in the condition that my father gave it to me in, albeit with some upgrades I'd like to have. —Marcelo Dietrich
16 March 2015 AWCI News: 2015 Convention Countdown to the 2015 Annual Meeting By Terry Kurdzionak, Convention Committee Chairwoman
his is the second in a series of articles leading hour at the end of each business day. They are up to our annual meeting and convention. eager to be our hosts at this convention. As we As you know, we will be taking our meet- get closer to the sign-up time we will have much Ting to Kansas City, Missouri, for the first time. The more information for you, but our rate will be dates of the actual convention are October 1-3, $139 per night. 2015, with an arrival date of September 30 and In choosing a hotel, we considered many fac- departure date of October 4. The Chronometer tors. We based the decision not only on location Club will be meeting on September 30, all day, and pricing, but also on the needs of our mem- and should plan to arrive on September 29. Chro- bers who have attended previous conventions nometer Club members should check with Presi- and given us feedback on their likes and dislikes. dent Justin Shiver for further details. The least expensive place to hold a convention is There is so much to see and do in Kansas City at a hotel within the confines of the airport. We that you may want to extend your stay at the be- know that most folks do not want to fly in to an ginning or end of the convention. We are still in airport and fly out a few days later, only to realize the process of finalizing speakers and instructors, that they have seen another airport. With all that but have secured appropriate space in the facil- there is to see in Kansas City, the Board of Direc- ity. Our host hotel is the Hotel Phillips, located tors voted unanimously to hold the 2015 conven- downtown at 106 West 12th Street. Check out tion in the city. Kansas City International Airport their website hotelphillips.com. is 20 miles from downtown. As with many other The hotel is within walking distance to the airports that are not close to downtown, Super downtown business district, the Power and Light Shuttle is one option. It runs every half hour and district (restaurants and entertainment), and the will take you right to the hotel door. Future ar- Jules Borel Company! We have planned a tour of ticles will help you decide what might be the best the Jules Borel Company, and we thank them for option for you if you plan to attend—and you making that offer to us. should plan to attend. We plan to have more than The hotel has an Art Deco motif with an onsite one activity for the spouses, and we guarantee restaurant and complimentary wine and cheese that this will be one you won’t want to miss.
Hotel Phillips
The Hotel Phillips was voted Best Hotel of Kan- sas City in 2014 and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The beauti- ful lobby features the Art Deco motif.
Horological Times 17 Technical Discussion: Making Suspension Springs
Making Suspension Springs By Paul Corn
he time comes when you need a suspension Fig. 2 spring to match the original one called for in Tthe timepiece you are working on, and you can’t find a suitable replacement. The clock material houses sell suspension-spring units that are made in another country, but the quality is lacking and the diameters of the shafts/leaders are too small in two- and three-piece suspension units. You can make your own suspension springs as needed for the job on hand, and you can find the tools used for making suspension springs in most clock shops. Blue tempered shim stock is used for the suspen- sion spring, .002", .003" and .005" in thickness, and Fig. 3 the stock is sheared to 3/16" and 1/4" widths, Figure 1. Machinery supply outlets sell the blue tempered shim stock. A power punch that is sold by most clock supply houses is used to punch out the disks, Fig- ure 2. The disks are made from the brass strips used in battery-clock pendulum shafts, the ones that you break off in pieces to adjust the pendulum length, Figure 3. The first two suspension springs to deal with are the common ones used on English tall case clocks—with the bent-over top piece and one with two disks, Figure 4. I make up three or four of these units at a time so they will be on hand when needed. A propane torch or the small butane torch will Fig. 4 be needed to anneal the brass strips to a red color before bending or punching. A drill press and a drill press vise can be used to do the bending as needed. A lathe or grinder and files will be helpful in grinding/ filing the round parts. Break off one or two of the brass strips and an- neal using your torch, Figure 5. Then bend the brass strips in the drill press, using the drill press vise as the bending jig and a flat-blade screwdriver bit in the drill-press chuck. The drill press is used as an
Fig. 1 Fig. 5
18 March 2015 Technical Discussion: Balance Endshake Adjustment Balance Endshake Adjustment By Dale LaDue, CMW21
he watch movement I am writing about in this article came to me with the customer’s Fig. 2 Tcomplaint of erratic timekeeping while worn on the wrist. He said it kept very good time when the watch was resting on a flat surface with the dial up. When I removed the movement from its case and examined it, I noticed that the balance bridge was canted up a few degrees as shown in Figure 1. This was overtly done to correct an endshake problem. It obviously succeeded because the balance staff exhibited nearly proper endshake! A closer look, Figure 2, reveals the source of erratic timekeeping: namely, the guard pin rubbing on the lower shock- protection chaton. With the movement viewed as it is here in the dial-down position, the lack of clearance was especially evident. The roller jewel is also shown nearly vertically out of the fork slot. Removing the balance bridge exposed a more Fig. 3 critical view as shown in Figure 3. Following the improper logic of the last repairperson, it seems the next step would have been to bend the guard pin up to provide clearance between it and the top surface of the chaton! This would have undoubtedly improved the erratic timekeeping, and the owner would not have had an indication of the improper procedures that were performed. However, a closer look at the stanchion that supports the guard pin shows that it also is in contact with the lower shoulder of the chaton. The next improper step would have been to raise the pallet fork on its arbor or risk bending the fork for clearance—all bad choices! Figure 4 shows burrs that were raised by gouging the main plate with a sharp tool that glaringly tilted the balance bridge up. I’m sure many of my readers have seen these “pig ear” burrs numerous times, just Fig. 4 as I have. They particularly occur in antique pocket watches as well as vintage wristwatches but rarely in recent, modern, higher-grade wristwatches. Fig. 1
22 March 2015 Industry NEWS The Value of the Swiss Franc Increases Suddenly: Making Sense of the SNB’s Decision By Aaron Recksiek, CW21
January 15, the Swiss National Bank (SNB) sustainable practice that would expose the his- On ended its policy of trying to maintain a cap torically conservative SNB to an extremely large on the value of its currency compared to the euro. risk: holding so much foreign currency—the value The policy was put in place in 2011, the last time of which would be mostly out of its control. the franc was considered “overvalued,” in an effort Another issue is the growing reserves of depos- to reduce the country’s currency deflation and to its held by lenders at the SNB. This only added to promote growth of its industry. With exports mak- the strain of holding down the value of the franc. ing up more than two-thirds of the Swiss gross As the size of the deposits grew, so did the value domestic product (GDP), a lower-valued Swiss of the Swiss franc. In December 2015, the SNB an- franc translates to a healthier export market and, nounced a plan to charge a negative interest rate overall, to a healthier Swiss economy. of .25% on deposits of over 10 million francs, in To maintain the cap, the Swiss National Bank an effort to reduce the amount of deposits. Af- would purchase the amount of foreign currency, ter the announcement to end the cap, the SNB mainly euros, it needed to stay undervalued. The official interest rate was lowered even further to more Swiss francs that were ex- a unprecedented -.75%. The Swiss changed for foreign currencies, The silver lining is franc has long been an attractive the weaker the franc would be. If “ currency to invest in because of its the SNB needed to purchase more that now the cost of historical stability. As the econom- currency, all it needed to do was manufacturing and ic uncertainty in Russia and other print more of its own Swiss francs. European countries mounted, the By the end of 2014 the SNB had innovating outside of investment in the Swiss franc had amassed foreign currency holdings Switzerland has become excessive as of late. worth over 500 billion francs— The rationale behind the decision more than twice the amount it had become more appealing of the Swiss National Bank to aban- in 2011. than ever. don the effort to cap its currency The main problem with investing ” and essentially lose vast amounts in foreign currency is that the value of holdings is sub- of money based on the size of its foreign curren- ject to unpredictable fluctuations in the market. The cy holdings has not been completely explained. It European Central Bank (ECB), which is in charge is believed by most that continuing to purchase of administering monetary policy for the euro- foreign currency that had already grown to about zone, was working on a solution to counteract 75% of its GDP would have grown a reserve too much of Europe’s currency devaluation. The plan large, and the faith that the euro would do any- was to help improve their ever-weakening euro thing but decrease in value even further prompted currency and provide stimulus to the stagnant Eu- the bank to cut its losses early and avoid the risk ropean economies that have still failed to rebound of losing even more in the future. The SNB also from the worldwide financial crisis of 2008, by feared that its credibility would be hurt more by purchasing over a trillion euros worth of govern- holding a greater amount of liabilities than assets ment bonds. This would have essentially required and becoming insolvent than it would by going the Swiss National Bank to double down on its ef- back on a promise it had made to buy “an unlim- forts to purchase euros to continue its currency ited amount” of foreign currency. devaluation, which would amass them a stockpile So far the SNB stands by its decision to remove of European currency of such grand proportions the cap. Jean-Pierre Danthine, vice-chairman of likely never seen before. Many saw this as an un- the SNB, was quoted as saying, “The risks of the
28 March 2015 Column: From the Workshop IMPORTANCE OF HIGH Q FOR WATCHES By Jack Kurdzionak, CW21, FAWCI
I did not make a spelling error in the g. Making the balance wheel and hairspring from No,title. I meant High Q and not IQ. The Q metal resistant to magnetism. factor is a term physicists use when discussing h. Making the balance wheel from a material that damped harmonic oscillators. For our purposes, a maintains its shape during changes in tem- balance complete in any watch is a harmonic perature. oscillator damped by the frictional losses in the i. Making the balance wheel from a material that pivots, the hairspring, and the air resistance. does not distort in shape as it changes speed. Simply stated, we have a mass (the balance wheel) coupled to a restoring force (the hair- The engineers did their job. Now what can spring) and not connected to the watch train. we as watchmakers do to keep the Q as high A simple equation displays the Q factor as: as possible? Time in seconds the balance swings a. Clean all components thoroughly. Q = × balance frequency b. Confirm the balance staff pivots are straight As an example, I used an ETA 6497-1 and moved and polished with no roughness on the sides the balance wheel 270˚ in one direction before re- or ends. Fit a new staff if necessary. leasing it. It stopped swinging 22 seconds later. That c. Confirm that the balance wheel is true in the balance has a frequency of 2.5 Hz and went through round and the flat, as well as poised. 55 cycles before stopping for a Q factor of 55. d. Adjust the balance endshake to within factory tolerances.
22 seconds × 2.5 Hz e. Confirm the roller jewel is tight in the roller
55 = and that it fits the pallet fork properly. Not too There are some complicated mathematical formulas loose, nor too tight. used to determine Q for all kinds of oscillators. I will f. Adjust the hairspring for concentricity, flat- leave the math to those who understand it better than I ness, and centered within the regulator pins. can. What is important for watchmakers to understand Hairsprings out of true waste energy. is, the higher the Q, the more consistent the timekeep- g. Make certain the hairspring is properly at- ing of any balance wheel or other timekeeping base. In tached to the stud. Securely anchor the stud a running watch, if a balance wheel has a very low Q, to the balance cock. Any looseness here dis- caused by too many frictional losses, the escapement sipates energy. cannot deliver enough power to keep the balance am- h. The balance jewels must be in excellent condi- plitude at 270˚. Hence, the timekeeping will be erratic tion and pegged out. at best. When horological engineers design a balance i. Lubricate the balance jewels with the escape- wheel, they do everything possible to give the balance ment oil as specified by the manufacturer. wheel a high Q factor by taking the following steps: a. Making the balance as large as possible and A simple check for high Q is an old test used by yet still fit in the movement. watchmakers for generations that still works well to- b. Concentrating as much of the balance wheel day. Clean the watch movement and make certain the mass in the rim as possible. balance wheel is in excellent condition. Oil the balance c. Making the rim of the balance wheel smooth pivots, install the balance wheel only onto the main with no screws. Screws cause air friction plate and balance cock, then turn the balance wheel losses. 270˚ from its rest position and let it swing freely. Check d. Highly polishing the pivots of the staff to mini- how long it takes to stop swinging. Turn the movement mize friction. over and repeat the test. The balance wheel should take e. Using olive-shaped balance jewels to reduce about the same amount of time to stop swinging. The friction. Q factor should be about the same dial up or dial down, f. Fitting a hairspring with low internal friction which indicates equal frictional losses in both positions. so that the hairspring absorbs as little energy When we repair a watch, we strive to restore its time- from the balance wheel as possible. keeping to its original capability or better. We clean
34 March 2015 Affiliate Chapter NEWS
Minnesota Clockmakers Guild (MCG) The MCG February 5 meeting started at 7:00 p.m. at the Hopkins Pavilion in Hopkins, Minnesota. “Clock Case Repairs” was presented by John Schumach- er and covered techniques for repairing scratches, dents, and missing parts of the case. For the January meeting Susan Wood gave a demonstration of how to replace damaged or miss- ing teeth in a brass clock wheel. She had tools and materials to demonstrate each step of her process. The door prize was Electric Clocks and Chimes by Percival Marshal, and was won by Susan Wood. For Show and Tell, Susan shared her clock wheel depthing tool and showed how to set it up for proper tooth engagement. Susan also showed cloth holders that she made for carrying her files. Mark Purdy of Blackstone Manor Clocks in Hopkins, Minnesota, had an article in the December 22, 2014, issue of the Star Tribune. Tom Wall shared an Anno 1750 saw-tooth gravity wall clock that is powered by the movement dropping.
Future MCG Meetings/Topics Tom Wall shared an Anno 1750 saw-tooth gravity wall clock. March 5, 2015 - TBD April 2, 2015 - Visit to Stratus Systems, a 3D printing company
Tom and Susan also shared this tiny fret plane and medical pump The display of Susan Wood’s three pendulum wall clocks and alcohol dispenser. gear-cutting photos at the Landmark Center.
38 March 2015 The Horological Association of Virginia 2015 Annual Convention Staunton, VA The Horological Association of Virginia is pleased to announce its plans for our 2015 Annual Convention. Dates: May 1 - May 3, 2015 Location: Stonewall Jackson Hotel 24 South Market Street, Staunton, VA 24401 540-885-4848 Guest Speakers: Watchmaker’s Program Convention Chairman: Zareh Sarkissian [email protected] 240-242-3555 Convention Details: You will find complete convention details including itinerary and registration forms available on our website havhome.org or contact this year’s Convention Chairman who can assist you with your registration requests or questions.
Watchmaker’s Programs Clockmaker’s Programs Saturday, May 2 Saturday, May 2 Joseph DeFilippo, CW21, Lititz Watch Technicum Rory DeMesey Balance Staff Replacement Rapid Prototyping and Reverse Engineering - Use of the Horia tool for staff replacement Using 3D Scanning and Printing - Truing and poising of the balance wheel as - From scanning to printing of actual parts well as checking your rate - All processes of 3D printing will be discussed Sunday, May 3 and demonstrated. Dan Fenwick, Swatch Group, USA Sunday, May 3 Chronology of Daniel’s Co-axial Escapement Rory DeMesey - Exploring Omega’s use of the Co-Axial Restoration of the E. Howard #3 Gravity Clock Escapement - Discussion of Mr. DeMesey’s restoration of Omega Watchmaker’s Evaluation Program the E. Howard #3 Gravity Clock for the Old - Mr. Fenwick will be offering an in-depth look Red Courthouse overlooking Dealy Plaza, at Omega’s new OWME program. Dallas, Texas
Spouse’s Program Saturday, May 2 A Walking Tour of Downtown Staunton, VA Stops include The American Shakespeare Center, The Frontier Cultural Museum, and lunch at the Depot Grill.
“Downtown Staunton VA USA” by henristosch - Own work. Licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0 de via Wikimedia Commons
42 March 2015
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- s · r o e i k h a O , m Conservation and Restoration • Case Restructuring and Veneer h n c o t is a r r W a n H a AMERICAN WATCHMAKERS- · ic r e e iv CLOCKMAKERS INSTITUTE r m D A e e s h ri t p m r o te fr n n E o 1 si 0 is . 7 rm te Please see nawcc.org >> education section for descriptions of topics listed above. e tu p ti en s tt In ri rs t w ke ou a th km wi c d Clo ite rs- hib ke pro ma sk is tch he di Wa ©1977 n of t can -2014 AWCI reproductio meri y the A Copyright ©2014 b Registration Register online at Members Early $330 (before March 16) nawcc.org > Education. Members Regular $380 Questions? Contact Katie Knaub: Non-Members Early $370 (before March 16) [email protected]. Non-Members Regular $420 Phone 717-684-8261, ext. 237. LIKE US ON FACEBOOK! (Lab Fee $25) www.facebook.com/HorologicalTimes Do you enjoy spending time with other Massachusetts Minnesota watchmakers and clockmakers? Wisconsin New York Pennsylvania Ohio Illinois Indiana New Jersey Missouri Virginia Join Your Local North Carolina
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Horological Times 43 Get Trained as a Full-Skill Watchmaker Available Now! in a Swiss Hotspot! Antique Watch Restoration, Vol. II by Archie B. Perkins K&H Watchmaking Competence Centre, As K&HWCC's director and main teacher, a unique watchmaking school in Le Lo- Henrik Korpela, points out— cle, Switzerland, has a flock of interna- “This full-skill program is independent tional students ready to fly! New appli- $99.99 from any brand and deals with the most (plus shipping and handling) cants are welcome to enroll for the new recent techniques as well as the classical two-year Fullskill Training Program start- ones requested for any creation, repair, or ing April 2015. Order Now and SAV E ! restoration.” K&H Watchmaking Competence Cen- AWCI members get a 10% discount! K&HWCC is committed to deeply individu- tre is the place to get trained as a full- alized teaching, comfortably delivered in skill watchmaker. In a region known as bright, wide spaces using the most up-to- “Watch Valley,” where watchmaking has date equipment. most of its finest past and present—and museums!—K&HWCC offers an exclusive The present group of six students—from and extensive two-year comprehensive Canada, Mexico, Italy, and Iceland—is now training program. completing the two years of the full cycle. They are currently passing the final exams and will leave very soon for new profes- sional adventures as watchmakers !
A new cycle with new students starts in April 2015. Applications are open. Henrik Korpela and his team are looking forward to welcoming applicants from all over the world ! [email protected] khwcc.ch
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44 March 2015 AWCI Welcomes New Members Hun Amparado NC Shane Donley OK Timothy Knechel IL Gabriel Angeles NC Robert Espy TX Hannah Mancill TX Armen Anserlian CA Jason Gallop CAN Amy Martens NC Eric Aschman TX Jacinto Gonzales NC Ronald Martinez NC Christian Busta TX Brett Grant OK Mike McDonald OH Gary B. Cecil OK Stephany Guyot ME Roger Middleton IL Matthew Davis TX Bryan Hanshaw TX Tucker Nesbitt OK Michael Davis NV Jeff Howard MD Matthew L. Nowlin OK Danniel De Castro TX Chase Jacobs OK Pablo Ortiz TX Kenneth DeMarce WA Kul B. Jain MA Jeremy D. Reed OK Dalton Denson Jr. NC Grace Kao TX Larry Reynolds TX Jorge Dominguez-Berrios NY Ryan Kemper OH Marcus Sieczkowski OK Congratulations! to our members who have recently passed the CW21 exam
Christopher Milton OK David Threlkeld OK Jennifer Yang OK Contributors to the ELM Trust The ELM Trust of AWCI is a recognized 501 (c) (3) charitable organization with a three-pronged mission as indicated by the acronym of its name ELM. The E represents our educational mis- sion to assist schools and students of horology; the L represents our obligation to establish and maintain a horological library; and the M stand for our purpose to establish and maintain a museum containing items of horological interest. The ELM Trust welcomes and appreciates your tax-deductible donation to help it fulfill its mission. Recent donors include the following: Florida Watch & Clockmakers Assoc. Maurice D. Lareau Glenn D. Gardner David Melich Dale E. Huntington Dean A. Powell Matthew Kluesener
The trustees extend their thanks to all who have made donations to further the activities of the ELM Trust. Brad Wellmann, curator Justin Shiver, trustee Dennis Warner, secretary Jack Kurdzionak, chairman Paul Wadsworth, treasurer
In Memoriam
C. W. Clayton PA Harvey W. Roper CA Frank Menez NH Don Williams CA Steven Peck OH awci directory ADVERTISERS’ INDEX BOARD OF DIRECTORS
AWCI Courses Officers Fellows 513-367-9800 8 Fred T. White, CMW21: President *Robert F. Bishop [email protected] *James H. Broughton British Horological Institute Drew Zimmerman, CW21: Vice President Fred S. Burckhardt bhi.co.uk 35 [email protected] Alice B. Carpenter David A. Christianson Cas-Ker Co. Manuel Yazijian, CMW21: Treasurer *George Daniels 513-674-7700 7 [email protected] Wes Door Chris Carey: Secretary Jerry Faier Clocks Magazine [email protected] *Henry B. Fried 011 44 131 331 3200 29 *Josephine F. Hagans Acting Past President *Orville R. Hagans Greiner Vibrograf Manuel Yazijian: President, CMW21 *Ewell D. Hartman greinervibrograf.ch 41 [email protected] *Harold J. Herman * J.M. Huckabee HAV Directors *Gerald G. Jaeger havhome.org 42 Marc Young: IAB Director Jack Kurdzionak [email protected] *Benjamin Matz K & H Watchmaking Competence Centre Chris Carey: Affiliate Chapter Director khwcc.ch 44 *Robert A. Nelson [email protected] *Hamilton E. Pease Jules Borel & Co. Joe Cerullo, CMW, CMC Archie B. Perkins 816-421-6110 ...inside front cover [email protected] Antoine Simonin Jason Champion, CW21: REC Director William O. Smith, Jr. NAWCC [email protected] Milton C. Stevens nawcc.org 43 Dennis Warner Wesley Grau, CMW21 *Marvin E. Whitney [email protected] Richemont richemont.com ...inside back cover Joshua Kroman, CW21 *Deceased [email protected] American Watchmakers- Renata Tom Nesbit, CW21 Clockmakers Institute 800-527-0719 ...back cover [email protected] 701 Enterprise Dr. Aaron Recksiek, CW21 Harrison, OH 45030 Witschi Electronic Ltd. [email protected] Ph: 866-FOR-AWCI 011 32 352 05 00 24 513-367-9800 John Safranek Fax: 513-367-1414 [email protected] [email protected] • www.awci.com WE THANK THE IAB AWCI would like to thank our Industry Advisory Board members for their ongoing support of the institute and the industry.
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