Volume 36 L Issue 68 L 1994 Compiled by Margot Mckee This Issue Comprises All of Volume 36 Mountains Are Listed by Their Officia
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INDEX Volume 36 l Issue 68 l 1994 Compiled by Margot McKee This issue comprises all of Volume 36 Mountains are listed by their official names and ranges; quotation marks indicate unofficial names. Ranges and geographical locations are also indexed. Unnamed peaks (e.g., P 2037) are listed following the range or country in which they are located. Most expedition members cited in major articles are included, whereas mainly the leaders and persons supplying information in the Climbs and Expeditions section are listed. Titles of books reviewed in this issue are grouped as a single entry under Book Reviews. Abbreviations used: Article: art.; Bibliography: bibl. ; Obituary: obit. A Altitudes: Corrections, Patagonia, 176; new, Peaks above Southern Patapxian Icecap south of Fitz Abe, Masami, 278 Roy or Chnlten. 175.176; P&is-Bonete-Ojos Accidents: Acor~cngun, 175; Chmborazo. 162; del S&do region, 113 Denali Notional Pork and Presenv. 110-l 12; Ama Dablam (Nepal), 2 1S-2 17 Everest, Mount, 208-209; Huascard’n Nor%; K2, American Women’s Trans-Antarctic Expedition, 243, 248-250; Salcantq~, 168; Sr. Elias, 125 1992-3, 196-197 Aced, Josep, 247-248 American Alpine Club, The: Cascade Section, 337; Aconcagua (Argentma): Accident 175 New York Section, 337-338: Oregon Section, 338-339; Southern California Section, 339-340 Adams, Mount (Washmgton), 134 AMS (acute mountain sickness), art., 106-107 Aging/Altitude. art., 106-107 An Jin-Seob, 208 Aiguille Sam Nom (French Alps), 199 Anco Co110 (Quimsa Cruz), 17 1 Aiguille Extra (High Sierras), 141 Anderson, Robert, 3 Akher Chioh (Hindu Kwh), 265 Anderson, Bruce, 35-40 Ak-Su (Pamir Alai), 283-284 Andes, Northern (Argentina), 172-173 Akutan Island (Aleutian Islands), 132 Andes, Northern (Chile), 171 Akutan (Akutan Island), 132 Andes, Central (Chile), 171-172 Alaska: arts.. 78-89; notes. 109-132 Anker, Conrad, l-9 Alaska Range (Alaska): arts.. 78-89; P 9070 Annapuma (Nepal), 224-225 (2765m), 83-84; “Thunder Mountain” Annapuma IV (Nepal), 224 (P 10,920), 83-86 Antarctica, an.. l-9, 196-197 Albania, 200 Anyemaqen (Southeastern China), 271 Albuschkat, Rick, 137 Anyemaqen 5 (Southeastern China), 27 1 Aleutian Islands (Alaska). 132 Apollo 11 (Cordillera Apolobamba), 168 Alison, Leanne, 152 Aq Tash (Eastern Karakoram), 241 Allen, Rick, art., 30-34 Arctic (Canada), 159-160 Allen, Mitch, 142 Argentina, arts., 20-29, 172-175 Allison, Stacy (f), 248-249 Argentine-Chilean Patagonia, 175-194 Almirante Nieto, Cerro (Patagonia), 186 Arizona: art.. 61-63; 146147 Alpamayo (Cordtllera Blanca), 163 Arko, Vojslav, 176-177, 194 Alps (France). 199 Artesonraju (Cordillera Blanca), 164 349 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL I994 I Arunachal Pradesh (India), 200 Blackbum. Mount (Alaska), 123-125 Asia, 200-284 Blanchard, Barry, 246 Atka (Aleutian Islands), 132 Blanco, Ram6n. 213.214 Atkinson, William C., 331-332 Blaurock, Carl A., &it., 323-324 Augusta, Mount (Icefield Ranges), 152, 154 Blind climber (Guy Gerard), 206 Auyuittuq National Park (Canadian Arctic), 159 Bodhane, Prajapati, 203 Bogomolov, Sergei, 30, 33-34 B Bojohaghur II (Ultar), Pakistan, 261 Bolivia, 168-171 Bach, Benny, 146 Bollen, Theo, 226 Baintha Brakk (The Ogre), Pakistan, 258-261 Baird, Mount (Icefield Ranges), 152 Bona, Mount (St. Elias Mountains), 124, 125 Baker, Mike, 144, 146, 148 Bonapace, Tommy, 178-184 Balanced Rock (Colorado National Monument), Bonington, Christian, art., 96-105 148 BOOK REVIEWS: 285.3 15 Balyberdin, Vladimir, 280 Aconcagua - Quadems d’Alpmisme N” 4. Caries Ball, Gary, 226-227 Capellas. editor, 303-304 Bancells, Lluis, 252 Altitude-Rated Places: A Medical Atlas. Blake Mooney, 3 15 Baring, Mount (Cascade Mountains), 136 Avalanche Handbook, 2nd Edition. David McClung Barlow, David, 83 and Peter Shaerer, 3 13-3 IS Barrenetxea, Pablo, 262 Best of Ascent, The. Steve Roper and Alan Steck, Bartel, Peter, 250 editors, 293-294 Baruntse (Nepal), 206-207 Beyond Risk: Converqatlons with Climber\. Niche Bass, Gaudenz, 273 las O’Connell, 286.288 I Bates, Robert H., 317.320 Blind Comers; Adventure on Seven Continents. Batson, William, 262 Geoff Tobm, 292.293 Bauman, John, 120 Cloud Dancers, Portraits of North American Moun- Beacon, The (Lemon Bjerge), 101 taineers. Jonathan Waterman, editor, 285-286 Bear, Mount (St. Elias Mountains), 124, 125 Climbmg Mount Evere5t. The Bibliography: The Beausire, Jean-Luc, 221.222 Literature and History of Climbing the World’s Bebie, Mark, ohif.. 332-334 Highest Mountain. Compiled by Audrey Salkeld Bechtel, Steve, 54 and John Boyle, 298-299 Beckey, Fred, 135, 154 Colorado Front Range. 3 1l-3 12 Beghin, Annie, 206 Everest. el desafio de un ~uefio. Rodrigo Jordan, Bekker, Edward, 256, 198 299-300 Belltower Point (Washington), 136 Everest: la ruta 16eica. Mauncio Purto. 299-300 Benally, Curtis, 62-63 Flowers of the W&em Himalayas. Dang Rupin, Benally, Marty, 62-63 300-301 Benedetti, NicolBs, 1l-19 From the Black Forest to Tibet: One Woman’5 Berge, Mount (Glacier Park Wilderness), 132-133 Mountains. Trudy Healy, 303 Beta-Minimum: definition, arf., 55-60 Galen Rowell’s Vision: The Art of Adventure Pho Betelu, Jose Joaquim, 220 tomaphv. Galen Rowell. 294-295 I Beyer, Jim, 144 High-Himalaya: Unknown Valleys. Harish Kapadi , Bhagirathi III (Garhwal), 230-231 295-296 a Bhagirathi Group (Garhwal), 231 In the Shadow of Denali, Life and Death on Bhatt, Lt. Col. V.K., 228 Amenca’q Mount McKmley. Jonathan Water- Bhattachari, Romesh, 240.241 man, 304307 Bhutan, 201 Mixed Emotions. Greg Child, 288-290 Bhutia, Lobsang Tshering, 208 Mount Everest-The Best Writing and Picture5 Bifida (Patagonia). 178 from Seventy Years of Endeavor. Peter Gdlman, editor, 296-298 Bigey, Alain, 227 Mount Everest Masslf. Jan Kielkowskl, 298 Bilbo, Mount (Auyuittuq National Park), 159 Mount Logan Map, Research and Birdwood, Mount (British Columbia), 156 G. Hold\worth and B. Sawyer, 307 Bimbacher, Eduard, 123 Mount McKinley Climber’9 Handbook. Glenn Ra Bitterroot Range (Montana), at?.. 35-40 dall, 304-307 BJ 2 (Cordillera Apolobamba), 168 Mount McKinley-Icy Crown of North America. Bjbmstad. Eric, 142-144, 148 Fred Beckey. 304307 Blackburn, Joseph, l-9 NOLS Wlldemess Mountameering. 350 I INDEX On the Edge of Europe: Mountaineering in the Capachin Tortola (Patagonia). nrr.. 1 l-19 Caucasus. Audrey Salkeld and Jose Luis Bet-mu- Carey, Monte (Patagonia), 24 dez. 302.303 Carroll. Steve, 127. I28 Pakistan Trekking Guide. Isabel and Ben Shaw, Carter, H. Adams, 251, 295-296, 326-329 30 I-302 Cascade Mountains (Washington), 133, I36 Selected Climbs in the Cascades. Jim Nelson and Cashan Oeste (Cordillera Blanca): New route, Peter Potterfield, 307-308 Sierra Classics: The 100 Best Climbs in the High 163-164 Sierra. John Moynier and Claude Fiddler, 308-310 Castleton Tower (Utah), 144 Spirits Of The Age, The Biography of America’s Castle Valley (Utah), 146 Most Distinguished Rock Climber, Royal Rob- Catedral, Cerro (Patagoma), I88 bins. Pat Ament, 290-292 Catellani, Joe, 132-133 Stories Off the Wall. John Roskelley. 288.290 Cavayani (Cordillera Apolobamba), 169 Tahquitz & Suicide. Randy Vogel and Bob Gaines, Cerebral Hemorrhage, 275 310 Cerro. See name, I.e., Rudolfy, Cerro Talus: A History of the Danmouth Mountaineenng Cerro Terre (Patagonia): attempt, 178 Club. Dean Engle, 312 Cervantes (Patagonia), 185. I86 Vascos al Htmalaya: 1974.1992, cr6ntca de un Chabot, Douglas, 2 I6 aventura Antonio Ortega, ednor, 299-300 Chacaraju Oeste (Cordillera Blanca), 163 Borgonova, Paolo, 284 Chacaraju Este (Cordiliera Blanca), 163; arremprs, Bose, Animesh, 234 166 Both& Maja (Albania), 200 Chamoux, Benoit, 226 Bosque, Steve, 137 Chau Chau Kang Nilda II (Htmachal Pradesh), 236 Bottleneck Peak (San Rafael Swell), 142 Chauhan, Lt. Cal. H.S., 230 Bourgeots, Jim, 332.334 Chaukhamba II (Garhwal), 230 Bover, Joaqmm, 264 Chiar Tanca (Qutmsa Cruz), 169 Boy Scouts (Mt. McKinley), 114-l 16 Chigmit Mountains (Alaska), 123 Brammah II (Kashmir and Jammu), 238 Child, Greg, 157 Bredablik. Mount (Auyuittuq National Park), 159 Chile, flrfs.. 11-25. notes.171-172 Brennan. Pat. I4 I Chimborazo (Ecuador): accidenr. I62 Brill, Ttmothy, 2 17-2 18 Chimtarga (Fanskiye Gory), 282-283 Brillembourg, Gustave. ohir., 326.329 China: 269-28 1 British Columbia (Canada), 156 Cho Oyu (China): Foresummit. 278; New Routes, Broad Peak (Pakistan), 251 277; Post-Monsoon from the North, 278; Pre- Brooks Range (Alaska), 129 Monsoon, 277 Brown, Keith, 276, 278279 Cho Oyu (Nepal). 220-222 Buck, Brian, 135 Chogoltsa (Karakoram Range), 254-255 Buhler, Carlos, 2.58-260 Choi Byung-Soo, 234 Bune. Kaj, I25 Cholatse (Nepal), 2 18-220 Burdo, Bryan, 136 Chomo LBnza (Tibet), 271-272 Bures (Cordtllera Apolobamba), 168 Chugach Mountams (Alaska): P 7998, 122- 123 Bums. Cameron M.. OTT..61-63, 137, 141-142, Chun Young-Ho, 222 144-146.148 Churen Himal (Nepal), 227 Bums, Kerry, urt., 20-25 Chuscha (Cordillera Central. Areentina). 172 Buscaini, Sdvia Metleltin, art.. 26.29 Chuska Mountains (Arizona), &i., 61.63 Butler, John, 62-63 CIS, 28 l-284 Byerly, Douglas, I22 Citadel (Lemon BJerge): attempt, 105 Glance, Chuck, 137 C Classics (20 m 20 days) California to Wyoming, 141 Clayton, Mary, 152 CABA, Cerro (Cordon Pica Alto), 177 Cok, Dakin, 170, 17 1 Cahfornia, 0~15..41-54; storer. 136- 141 Climaco, John M., 218-220 CallIs, Patrick, 78-81 Clinch, Nicholas B., 269.270 Calve, Ramiro, UT,.. I l-19 Cloudveil Dome (Tetons), 149 Campolier, Jaume, 26 I Club Activtties, 335-345 Canada, 1.50.I60 Codina, Jose Maria, 159 Canadian Rocktes and Coast Range. 156-157 Cole, Peter, 251 Canadian Arcttc, 159-160 Collins, Dick, I14 Canyonlands (Utah), 141.143 Collum, Gregory, 154 351 THE AMERICAN ALPINE JOURNAL 1994 Colorado, 148 Deljska, Chris, 135 Colorado. Cerro (Vallecitos). 175 Denali National Park and Preserve: accidents, Colorado Mountain Club, The, 340 110-112; snniration, 112; statistics, 109-l 13 Colorado National Monument (Colorado), 148 Devil’s Thumb (Alaska), I29- 130 Convent [Castle Valley), 146 Dhamal, Prasad, 232 Cook, Dakin, 170,171 Dhaulagiri (Nepal), Direct North Face, art., Cooper, Douglas, 161 26-34.