shutters May 201 iconic an III bridge e ID 75252 Welcome to (First / -; Netsu Paris’ seemingly timeless monument- -; Full Pr lined boulevards, magnifi cent , includin classical bistros and chic boutiques are being enhanced by a new wave of Aerial-m multimedia galleries, cocktail bars, design shops and tech start-ups. PARIS The French capital is awash with landmarks – the TOPTO P SIGHTS,S I G H T S , AAUTHENTICU T H E N T I C EEXPERIENCESX P E R I E N C E S , and Notre Dame among them – along with a trove of specialist museums and galleries. Creamy-stone, grey-metal- roofed apartment buildings, lamp-lit bridges and geometrically laid-out formal parks are equally integral to the city’s fabric. Contrary to its magnificently preserved cityscapes, however, la Ville Lumière (the City of Light; a moniker Paris acquired due to its leading role in the Age of Enlightenment) has never stood still, but has constantly evolved, spearheading industrial, artistic, scientific and architectural endeavours. This inno- vative spirit continues today, with pioneering green transport initiatives and dazzling new architectural projects that include skyscraping towers along the periphery and re-energised urban spaces, many as part of the city’s ambitious Grand Paris (Greater Paris) expansion. Creativity is evident everywhere, from neobistro kitchens and cutting-edge bars to fashion ateliers and vibrant street art, plus a new digital art in a former foundry and the 1920s former railway depot housing Station F, the world’s largest start-up hub.

la Ville Lumière has CatherineCatherine LeLe Nevez,Nevez, never stood still, but has ChristopherChristopher PPitts,itts, NNicolaicola WWilliams,illiams, DamianDamian HHarperarper constantly evolved…

Statue on the Pont Alexandre III over the Seine AERIAL-MOTION/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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Les Invalides  A A M this fabled cafe- and  Plan Your Trip Dining Out ...... 117 Le boutique-fi lled Left  Mén ape. This Year in Paris ...... 4 The Best… ...... 120 Bank neighbourhood. Bast with Need to Know ...... 18 Eiffel Tower & Western Paris ...... 122 (Map p246) Latin Top Days in Paris ...... 20 Champs-Élysées & St-G Hotspots For… ...... 28 Grands Boulevards ...... 122 Mon Gare St- What’s New ...... 30 & Les Halles ...... 123 2# Arc de Lazare For Free ...... 31 Montmartre & Northern Paris...... 125 Le Marais, Triomphe Family Travel ...... 32 Palais Louvre & Les Halles Ménilmontant & Le Marais, A Champs- Sho Garnier Market streets fan out Belleville Ménilmontant & Belleville ...... 129

Le Marais,

& Belleville & Élysées A around the Louvre & mighty Bastille & Eastern Paris ...... 133 Eiffe Les Halles Hip boutiques, bars Ménilmontant Top Experiences ...... 35 A Cha Champs-Élysées A Louvre and the and restaurants, The Islands ...... 136 for Eiffel Tower ...... 36 Gran & Grands Boulevards cutting-edge Centre and a celebrity-fi lled Latin Quarter ...... 136 count Arc de Triomphe ...... 42 Paris’ grandest Jardin des Pompidou. cemetery. (Map p254) St-Germain & Les Invalides ...... 138 Louv (Map p250) A Notre Dame ...... 46 avenue, with art Tu il e r ies & Southern Paris ...... 142 Mon  Musée du Louvre ...... 52 nouveau depart- Seine A!  Nort Champs- Centre  Boulevards Cimetière du Basilique du Sacré-Cœur ...... 58 ment stores andÉlysées & G a A Le M Louvre A Pompidou  19th-century opera A Musée Père Lachaise Musée d’Orsay ...... 62 Treasure Hunt ...... 145 Mén Eiffel A A   Musée Rodin ...... 66 house. (Map p246) Hôtel des Musée A National Bast ATower Sainte-  The Best… ...... 148  ...... 68 Latin A Invalides d'Orsay Picasso The Islands Champs-Élysées & A A Chapelle Notre Dame domi- Cruising the Seine...... 72 St-G A A Grands Boulevards ...... 150 Monnaie de nates the larger Île ...... 74 Mon Musée Louvre & Les Halles ...... 150 Paris de la Cité, whileThe little Islands Cimetière du Père Lachaise ...... 78 Rodin A A Montmartre & Northern Paris...... 151 e A Île St-Louis is graced Street Markets ...... 82 Notre Le Marais, d for with elegant build- Day Trip: Château de Versailles ...... 84 Act Dame Ménilmontant & Belleville ...... 153 boule- ings. (Map p254) Monnaie de Paris ...... 88 Eiffel Tower & Bastille & Eastern Paris ...... 158 Spec ual Western Paris Jardin du Jardin des Jardin des Tuileries ...... 90 A! The Islands ...... 159 Swim Stately boulevards Eiffel Tower Luxembourg A Plantes A Sainte-Chapelle ...... 92 Gare de Latin Quarter ...... 159 Park fl ank the city’s A 2# Les Catacombes ...... 94 or & W Paris Gare Lyon St-Germain & Les Invalides ...... 160 Fore signature spire and Montparnasse 2# Cooking & Wine-Tasting Courses .... 96 s 2# A Montparnasse & Southern Paris ...... 163 Guid major museums.  Gare Day Trip: Maison et (Map p246)  d'Austerlitz  Jardins de Claude Monet...... 98  ...... 100 Les Bar Open ...... 165 Res  Bastille & Walking Tour: Catacombes The Best… ...... 168 Acco A Eastern ParisBastille & Seine-Side Meander ...... 102 The Parisians’ Paris, Hôtel des Invalides ...... 104 Eiffel Tower & Western Paris ...... 170 Nee Montparnasse & with fabulousE markets, Paris Jardin des Plantes ...... 106 Champs-Élysées & Whe Southern Paris Latin Quarter intimate gourmet Walking Tour: Grands Boulevards ...... 170 Brasseries from the Home to beautifulLatin bistros and lively & Les Halles ...... 171 e seen Quarter Paris’ Covered Passages ...... 110 mid-20th-centuryMontparnasse and drinking and dancing botanic gardens and Discovering Paris’ Street Art ...... 112 Montmartre & Northern Paris...... 173 re-energised back-& S Paris packed with vibrant venues. (Map p254) Musée National Picasso ...... 114 streets buzz with local  student haunts. life. (Map p246)  (Map p252)  

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Lati * SHU Imag Stoc PAR 117 Le Marais, In Focus Urba Ménilmontant & Belleville ...... 177 famo 120 Paris Today ...... 214 Bastille & Eastern Paris ...... 180 popu 122 History ...... 216 Latin Latin Quarter ...... 181 Architecture ...... 221 Rele St-Germain & Les Invalides ...... 183 122 Arts ...... 225 Edito Montparnasse & Southern Paris ...... 185 123 adve 125 proh By: E Showtime ...... 187 Survival Guide 129 Bast 133 Eiffel Tower & Western Paris ...... 190 Directory A–Z ...... 231 East 136 Champs-Élysées & Transport ...... 233 SHU 136 Grands Boulevards ...... 190 Language ...... 239 Imag Louvre & Les Halles ...... 190 Index ...... 241 138 Stoc Montmartre & Paris Maps ...... 245 142 PAR Symbols & Map Key ...... 257 Northern Paris...... 190 open Le Marais, one 45 Ménilmontant & Belleville ...... 192 sellin Bastille & Eastern Paris ...... 193 148 othe Latin Quarter ...... 194 Rele St-Germain & Les Invalides ...... 194 Edito 150 Montparnasse & Southern Paris ...... 195 aadv 150 proh 151 By: l Active Paris ...... 197 The 153 SHU Spectator Sports ...... 200 158 Imag Swimming Pools ...... 200 159 Stoc 159 Parks ...... 201 Paris 160 Forests ...... 202 Dam 163 Guided Tours ...... 203 The mos worl 65 Rest Your Head ...... 205 Rele Edito 168 Accommodation Types ...... 208 adve Need to Know ...... 209 170 proh Where to Stay ...... 211 By: C 170 171 Le M 173 SHU

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: PETR KOVALENKOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; Imag MATT MUNRO/LONELY PLANET ©; SAILORR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; LEMBI/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©; CHRISTIAN MUELLER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; LEMBI/ Stoc SHUTTERSTOCK ©; ELENA DIJOUR/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; PETR KOVALENKOV/ SHUTTERSTOCK ©; THITIPHAN PAKSEESUWAN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©; AUGUSTIN PAR LAZAROIU/SHUTTERSTOCK © Peop Rosi of M Rele 000-title-opener-bo-par3.indd0-title-opener-bo-par3.indd 3 225/05/20185/05/2018 9:33:129:33:12 AMAM Edito adve proh Bl 4

63 y Plan Your Trip he Day) on This Year in Paris Paris, .; 2019 MIGEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Paris Art fairs, music festivals, open-air cinema and epicurean events are just some of the highlights of Paris’ calendar in 2019, with many more in the works: check www.parisinfo.com for updates.

Clockwise from above: Bastille Day parade (p12); Paris Plages (p12); French Open (p10)

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shutters “Parisia 2019 the Rive

By: ever EVER/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

o Top Festivals & Events Paris Plages, July (p12) Bastille Day, July (p12) Paris Cocktail Week, January (p6) French Open, May (p10) Nuit Blanche, October (p15)

shutters PARIS, F Eugenie at the 20 Shutters Jimmie4 JIMMIE48PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

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001-this1-this yyear-in-paris-bo-par3.inddear-in-paris-bo-par3.indd 5 225/05/20185/05/2018 3:37:353:37:35 PMPM 6 73 Plan Your Trip crown ot This Year in Paris DELPIXEL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

20 H 9: lle. s’s as been ality 01 aris, 3; January Fe The frosty fi rst month of the year z Outdoor Ice Skating Fes isn’t the most festive in Paris, but on F Each winter, ice-skating rinks pop up cocktails – as well as the winter all over the city, including in some truly rest soldes (sales) – brighten the mood. picturesque spots, such as beneath z or within the Eiffel Tower. Skating is C Paris z Epiphany 6 Jan usually free but you’ll need to pay for On this Christian feast day (aka drag skate hire. Venues and dates change Three Kings’ Day), patisseries bake plac annually. frangipane-filled puff-pastry galettes des 13e.

rois (kings’ cakes), which conceal a fève VVOE/SHUTTERSTOCK © Le M (small trinket). Whoever finds the fève is crowned ‘king’ for the day and wears the 1 R cardboard crown that comes with the cake. Som five z Louis XVI Expo Commemorative Mass 20 Jan duri On the Sunday closest to 21 January, (ww royalists and right-wingers attend a mass at the Chapelle Expiatoire (www. monuments-nationaux.fr) marking the execution by guillotine of King Louis XVI in 1793. event. There are also workshops, guest 6 Paris Cocktail Week Late Jan bartenders, masterclasses and food pairings. Sign up for a free pass for cut- Each of the 75-plus cocktail bars all over price cocktails. the city that take part in Paris Cocktail Week (https://pariscocktailweek.fr) Top: Galette des rois (kings’ cake) for Epiphany; creates two signature cocktails for the Bottom: Ice skating outside the Hôtel de Ville

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