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South-India-Kerala-7-Contents.Pdf ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd South India & Kerala Maharashtra p85 ^# Mumbai (Bombay) p44 Andhra Pradesh p230 Goa p123 Karnataka & Bengaluru p173 Andaman Islands p410 Tamil Nadu & Kerala Chennai p267 p329 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Sarina Singh, Lindsay Brown, Paul Harding, Trent Holden, Amy Karafin, Kate Morgan, John Noble PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to MUMBAI Southern South India & Kerala . .6 (BOMBAY) . 44 Maharashtra . 106 South India & Kerala Map . 8 Konkan Coast. 106 Matheran. 108 South India & MAHARASHTRA . 85 Kerala’s Top 10 . .10 Lonavla. 110 Need to Know . .16 Northern Karla & Bhaja Caves . 111 Maharashtra . 88 If You Like… . .18 Pune. 111 Nasik. 88 Around Pune. 118 Month by Month . .21 Around Nasik . 91 Mahabaleshwar . 118 Itineraries . 25 Aurangabad. 92 Around Mahabaleshwar . 120 Booking Trains . 28 Around Aurangabad. 96 Kolhapur . 120 Yoga, Spas & Ellora . 97 Spiritual Pursuits . 30 Ajanta. 100 GOA . 123 Volunteering . 34 Jalgaon. 103 Travel with Children . .37 Nagpur. 104 Central Goa . 129 Regions at a Glance . 40 Around Nagpur. 105 Panaji (Panjim). 129 PHOTOSINDIA.COM / GETTY IMAGES © RICHARD I’ANSON / GETTY IMAGES © AJANTA P100 KEREN SU / GETTY IMAGES © DAULATABAD P96 Contents Old Goa . 135 Colva & Benaulim. 158 Nagarhole National Ponda & Around. 138 Benaulim to Agonda . 160 Park & Around . 201 Kodagu (Coorg) North Goa . 138 Agonda. 160 Region . .202 Mapusa . 138 Palolem & Around . 161 Belur & Halebid . 205 Candolim, Sinquerim Sravanabelagola. 206 & Fort Aguada. 139 KARNATAKA & Calangute & Baga . 142 Karnataka Coast . 207 BENGALURU . .173 Anjuna. 146 Mangalore. 207 Vagator & Chapora . 149 Southern Dharmasthala. 210 Karnataka . 176 Morjim & Asvem. 152 Udupi (Udipi) . 210 Bengaluru (Bangalore). 176 Mandrem. 152 Malpe. 211 Around Bengaluru. 188 Arambol (Harmal). 153 Jog Falls. 211 Mysore. 189 Gokarna. 212 South Goa . 154 Around Mysore. 199 Central Karnataka . 214 Margao (Madgaon) . 154 Bandipur Chandor. 157 National Park . .200 Hampi. 214 Around Hampi. .220 Hospet. 221 RICHARD I’ANSON / GETTY IMAGES © Hubli. 222 Northern Karnataka . 222 Badami. 222 Around Badami. 225 Bijapur. 225 Bidar. .228 ANDHRA KERALA P267 PRADESH . 230 Hyderabad. 233 Nagarjunakonda. 249 MITCHELL KANASHKEVICH / GETTY IMAGES © Warangal. .250 Around Warangal. 251 Visakhapatnam. 251 Around Visakhapatnam. 253 Vijayawada. .254 Around Vijayawada . 256 Tirumala & Tirupathi. 256 Around MEENAKSHI AMMAN KATHAKALI PERFORMER Tirumala & Tirupathi. 258 TEMPLE P384 P264 ON THE ROAD DREAMPICTURES / GETTY IMAGES © ANDERS BLOMQVIST / GETTY IMAGES © MUMBAI P44 PAPANASHAM BEACH, VARKALA P280 KERALA . 267 Kozhikode (Calicut). 320 Central Tamil Nadu . 371 Wayanad Chidambaram. 371 Southern Kerala . 270 Wildlife Sanctuary. 322 Kumbakonam. 373 Thiruvananthapuram Kannur & Around. 324 (Trivandrum). 270 Thanjavur (Tanjore). 374 Bekal & Around. 327 Around Trivandrum. 275 Trichy Lakshadweep . 328 Kovalam. 276 (Tiruchirappalli). 377 Kadmat Island . 328 Around Kovalam. 279 Southern Varkala. .280 Minicoy Island. .328 Tamil Nadu . 382 Around Varkala. 284 Chettinadu. .382 TAMIL NADU & Kollam (Quilon) . 285 Madurai. 384 CHENNAI . 329 Around Kollam. 287 Rameswaram . .388 Alappuzha Chennai (Madras) . 333 (Alleppey). 287 Kanyakumari Northern Tamil (Cape Comorin). 390 Kottayam. .292 Nadu . 349 The Western Around Kottayam. 294 Chennai to Ghats . 393 Mamallapuram. 349 The Western Ghats . 295 Kodaikanal (Kodai) . 393 Periyar Mamallapuram Wildlife Sanctuary. 295 (Mahabalipuram). 350 Around Kodaikanal. 397 Munnar. .299 Vedanthangal Coimbatore. .398 Bird Sanctuary. 357 Around Munnar . 302 Around Coimbatore. 400 Kanchipuram. 357 Central Kerala . 303 Coonoor. 400 Vellore . .359 Kochi (Cochin). 303 Tiruvannamalai. .360 Kotagiri . 401 Around Kochi . 316 Gingee (Senji). .362 Ooty (Ootacamund, Udhagamandalam) . 403 Thrissur (Trichur). 317 Puducherry Around Thrissur. 319 (Pondicherry). .362 Mudumalai Tiger Northern Kerala . 320 Auroville. 369 Reserve . 408 Contents UNDERSTAND South India Today . 430 GRAHAM CROUCH / GETTY IMAGES © GREG ELMS / GETTY IMAGES © History . 433 The Way of Life . 448 Spiritual India . 454 Delicious South India . 462 The Great Indian Bazaar . 472 The Arts . 480 Architectural VEGETARIAN THALI P468 ANJUNA P146 Splendour . 485 Indian Wildlife . 488 ANDAMAN Havelock Island . 419 The Landscape . 492 ISLANDS . 410 Neil Island . 424 Port Blair . 414 Middle & SURVIVAL North Andaman . 425 Around Port Blair GUIDE & South Andaman . 419 Long Island. .426 Diglipur & Around . 426 Wandoor . 419 Women & Solo Chiriya Tapu . 419 Little Andaman . 427 Travellers . 496 Scams . 498 Directory A–Z . 500 Transport . .513 Health . 523 Language . 529 Index . 542 Map Legend . 550 SPECIAL FEATURES Mysore Palace © BOARD PALACE MYSORE © BOARD PALACE MYSORE © BOARD PALACE MYSORE The interior of Mysore Palace houses Booking Trains . 28 Mysore Palace opulent halls, royal paintings, intricate decorative details, as well as sculptures and ceremonial objects. There is a lot of hidden detail and much to take in, so be sure to allow yourself at least a few hours for the experience. A guide can also be in 3D . 192 invaluable. After entering the palace the rst exhibit is the Doll’s Pavilion , which showcases the maharaja’s ne collection of traditional Public Durbar Hall Yoga, Spas & dolls and sculptures acquired from around The open-air hall contains a priceless collection of paintings the world. Opposite the Elephant Gate by Raja Ravi Varma and opens into an expansive balcony you’ll see the seven cannons that were used supported by massive pillars with an ornate painted ceiling of 10 incarnations of Vishnu. for special occasions, such as the birthdays of the maharajas. Today the cannons are Marriage Pavilion still red as part of Dasara festivities. This lavish hall used for royal weddings features themes of Christianity, Hindu and Islam in its design. The highlight is the At the end of the Doll’s Pavilion you’ll Private Durbar Hall Spiritual Pursuits . 30 Kerala . 259 octagonal painted glass ceiling featuring peacock motifs, the Rosewood doors lead into this hall, which is richly decorated nd the Golden Howdah . Note the bronze chandelier and the colonnaded turquoise pillars. with stained-glass ceilings, steel grill work and chandeliers. It y whisks on either side; the bristles are houses the Golden Throne, only on display to the public during made from ne ivory. Dasara. Make sure you check out the paintings depicting the Dasara procession in the halls on your way to the Entry to Marriage the Palace Pavilion and look into the courtyard to see what was once the wrestling arena. It’s now used during Dasara only. In the Marriage Pavilion, take a few minutes Volunteering . 34 Architectural to scan the entire space. You can see the in uence of three religions in the design of the hall: the glass ceiling represents Christianity, stone carvings along the hallway ceilings are Hindu design and Doll’s Pavilion Elephant Gate the top- oor balcony roof (the traditional The rst exhibit, the Doll’s Pavilion, displays the gift collection Next to the Doll’s Pavilion, this brass gate has four bronze Splendour . .485 ladies’ gallery) has Islamic-style arches. of 19th- and early-20th-century dolls, statues and Hindu idols elephants inlaid at the bottom, an intricate double-headed Golden Howdah that were given to the maharaja by dignitaries from around eagle up the top and a hybrid lion-elephant creature (the state When you move through to the Private At the far end of the Doll’s Pavilion, a wooden elephant howdah the world. emblem of Karnataka) in the centre. decorated with 80kg of gold was used to carry the maharaja Durbar Hall , take note of the intricate in the Dasara festival. It now carries the idol of goddess ivory inlay motifs depicting Krishna in Chamundeswari. Ancient & Historic the rosewood doors. The Public Durbar Hall is usually the last stop where you can admire the panoramic views of the Sites . 165 gardens through the Islamic arches. MYSORE PALACE BOARD © BOARD PALACE MYSORE © BOARD PALACE MYSORE MYSORE PALACE BOARD © BOARD PALACE MYSORE Amy Karafin Mumbai (Bombay), Andhra Pradesh Indian in several former lives, Amy first fell for the country in 1996, when she discovered idlis (spongy, round, fermented rice cakes), meditation and endless train rides. In many visits since, she has written about everything from Bollywood to mithai (Indian sweets), contemporary art to ancient religions, and yoga ghettoes to nizams’ palaces; read more at www. amykarafin.com. When not on the road, she can be found watching Guru Dutt movies or singing filmi in Brooklyn, where she mostly lives. Read more about Amy at: lonelyplanet.com/members/amykarafin John Noble Tamil Nadu & Chennai John, from England, lives in Spain and has written about 20-odd countries for Lonely Planet. He first experienced Tamil Nadu in the 1980s when Chennai’s Triplicane High Rd was clogged with bullock carts and families milked their buffaloes beside it. Autorickshaws have replaced bullock carts now, but the bustle of Tamil cities remains as exhilarating and exhausting as ever, and the thrill of reaching cool, green Kodaikanal will never pall. Best discovery of the trip: the tranquillity of Tranquebar. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together
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