1 The Best of

Back in 1979, New Zealand cartoonist and satirist Tom Scott, writing in NZ Listener magazine, had this to say about New Zealand: “Terrible tragedy in the South Seas. Three million people trapped alive.” The big news in 2003 was that we hit the four million population mark, and more than half of that increase was due to immigration. (By 2009, that number climbed to 4.3 million.) Given that we have around 44 million sheep, one New Zealander still equates to a whole lot of fresh lamb. Look beyond the farm gate, though, and you’ll find we’ve caught up with the rest of the world. We may bob about at the bottom of the Southern Hemisphere, but it would be unfair to consider the country a backwater. New Zealand continues to notch up big gains in tourism, welcoming more than two million visitors a year, despite international upheavals like terrorist attacks, flu epidemics, and economic downturns. Tourism is our largest source of overseas income. International visitors contribute NZ$8.3 billion to the economy each year and the tourism sector at large contributes NZ$19 billion to the country’s economy annually. One in every 10 New Zealanders now works in the tourism industry. And we’re better equipped for tour- ists than ever. Efficient visitor centers abound, with accommodations ranging from budget to exclusive. You can shop 7 days a week, whoop it up at clubs and bars 24 hours a day, or savor a glass of internationally recognized New Zealand wine in an inexpensive cafe. You can get real coffee in as many variations as you can imagine, and New Zealand’s fresh, innovative cuisine will leave you breathless and begging for more. Even provincial New Zealand has pulled up its socks without losing its heart. Small-town pride is beam- ing, and farmers are turning their hands to boutique tour operations and gorgeous restored B&Bs to supplement farm incomes, changing the whole nature of many back- water rural districts. Yet you’ll still find, at its core, the very Kiwi hospitality that has made this country famous. You may have heard that New Zealanders are born wearing wet suits and carrying paddles, such is their appetite for the outdoors and adventure. No part of the country is more than 128km (79 miles) from the sea, and a coastline spread with splendid beaches dishes up thousands of beautiful coastal walks and chances to surf and soak in the sun. New Zealand is also a winter magnet for international skiers and is the white-knuckle capital of theCOPYRIGHTED world. This is where you can push it to MATERIALthe limits, pit yourself against your fears and limitations, take risk by the throat, and go for it—leaping off bridges into surg- ing river gorges attached to a giant rubber band, or taking a stab at luging, Zorbing, sky diving, paragliding, kayaking, white-water rafting, and jet-boating. There’s no lack of invention when it comes to adrenaline-pumping activities in this country. But you don’t have to be an extreme athlete to enjoy New Zealand. There are just as many ways to be laid-back and indulgent—tour wineries that have stampeded their way to the top of world ratings in record time; take in the wealth of Polynesian and Maori culture that forms the backbone of an increasingly multicultural society; or check out the strong historic and architectural reminders of a colonial past. There are lush gardens, art 2 galleries, museums, and plenty of one-off speeding up rivers, and eating and drink- reminders that New Zealand is like no ing in far too many restaurants, I am more other place. convinced than ever that New Zealand is I was born in New Zealand and despite one of the quirkiest, quaintest, craziest frequent trips overseas, I can’t shake off the places on earth. It’s one of the most inherent sense of belonging here. This favored destinations of the new millen- book presents “my” New Zealand. After nium, and before you’ve even left here, many months traveling thousands of you’ll want to come back. Dip into these miles, testing mattresses, comparing pages, and you’ll see why. prices, leaping off cliff tops (well, almost),

1 THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCES

• Swim with Sharks: You’ve got to be for the taking. See “An Unforgettable keen, I admit, but this can be done in Train Trip” on p. 385 in chapter 14. perfect safety. You can come face to face • Eat Bugs and Beetles at the Wild- with Jaws’s South Seas cousins in a foods Festival: Prime yourself! You’ll tough metal cage in a knuckle-biting need culinary fortitude for this mind- 1 thrill just north of Gisborne. See “Gis- boggling event—you could be served borne & the East Cape” in chapter 10. up anything from wriggling grubs to • Explore a Glacial Lake: There are few the unmentionable body parts of a things as mind-blowing as taking a boat number of wild and not-so-wild ani- trip on Tasman Lake, on Aoraki/Mount mals. This is the West Coast at its most Cook, sailing between towering ice rugged best. See the “Wildfoods Festi- cliffs and floating icebergs in total, sur- val” box on p. 416 in chapter 15. real silence. It’s one of only three places • Stalk Kiwis at Night: And I mean the in the world you can do a tour like this, birds! Get ready for surprises on this so don’t miss it. See “Mount Cook” on little southern adventure. It’s the only p. 438 in chapter 16. place in the country where you can • Whale-Watch in Kaikoura: When a creep about lonely beaches at night mighty sperm whale flaps its tail at you, with flashlights and stealth and not get you won’t forget it in a hurry. These big arrested! At the same time, you’ll be one sea monsters come to this particular of the lucky few who get to see a wild stretch of water for a marine habitat kiwi foraging for its supper among the rich in their kind of plankton. Don’t be seaweed. See “Making a Date with a surprised to see dolphins aplenty, too. Kiwi” on p. 509 in chapter 17. See “Marine Experiences in Kaikoura” • Walk Around Sky Tower: And I mean on p. 400 in chapter 14. from the top, not at ground level. See how THE MOST UNFORGETTABLE TRAVEL EXPERIENCESTRAVEL UNFORGETTABLE MOST THE • Take ZEALAND NEW OF BEST THE the Train: Rated one of the five brave you really are when it comes to most spectacular train journeys in the walking around the thin perimeter ring of world, the TranzAlpine is an easy day one of the tallest towers in the Southern trip that gives a dramatic introduction Hemisphere. The fearless will be rewarded to the splendor of land- with amazing views; the terrified can scapes. Tunnels, beech forests, viaducts, cower inside the viewing level. See “Sky massive river gorges—they’re all there Jump” on p. 142 in chapter 6. at a Glance 3

175˚ E

CCapeape NORTH RReingaeinga NNorthorth CapeCape AucklandAuckland ISLAND Area of detail 1 MMangonuiangonui WellingtonWellington 35˚ S SOUTH KaitaiaKaitaia 10 KerikeriKerikeri ISLAND BBayay ooff IIslandsslands ChristchurchChristchurch PPooroor KKnight’snight’s IIslandsland THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND DunedinDunedin 12 WhangareiWhangarei 14 1 GGreatreat BBarrierarrier IIslandsland DDargavilleargaville PACIFIC WWarkwortharkworth CCoromandeloromandel PPeninsulaeninsula OCEAN KaiparuKaiparu 16 HaurakiHauraki GulfGulf HarbourHarbour OrewaOrewa WhitiangaWhitianga 25 CoromandelCoromandel AAucklanduckland ForestForest ParkPark ThamesThames EEastast CCapeape KaimaimamakiKaimaimamaki HHicksicks BayBay 1 ForestForest ParkPark BayB a y ooff NNgaruawahiagaruawahia TTaurangaauranga PlentyP l e n t y 35 HHamiltonamilton WhakataneWhakatane RuatoriaRuatoria Tasman LakeLake 30 RotoruaRotorua OOpotikipotiki 1 RotoruaRotorua S. T 2

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HokitikaHokitika 7 1 N Arthur’sArthur’s PassPass 0 100 km NationalNational PParkark 4 • Visit a Maori Marae: Experience the tour experience, or seek permission to hongi (the formal nose-to-nose Maori visit one of the dozens of East Cape greeting), see deeply moving song-and- marae (village common). See “Rotorua” dance performances, and eat from a tra- in chapter 9 and “Gisborne & the East ditional underground hangi (oven). Do Cape” in chapter 10. this in Rotorua as part of an organized

2 THE BEST BEACHES

• Waiheke Island’s Onetangi Bay: Stand without paying a cent! See “The Coro- on the bay’s wide stretch of golden mandel Peninsula” in chapter 7. sand, and you can see for miles. On a • Mount Maunganui’s Ocean Beach: clear day, throw yourself down into the Surf, sand, and sun—some people sand and gaze at the steep pinnacles of never want more than that. Throw on a Great Barrier Island and Little Barrier, bit of suntan lotion, a pair of sunglasses, off in the hazy distance. There might and a skimpy swimsuit, and you’ll be even be a few glimpses of the Coroman- able to mix in with the best of the del in between deliciously warm swims. bronzed bodies that make an annual See “A Side Trip to Waiheke Island” in pilgrimage to this perennial beach and chapter 6. surf favorite. See “Tauranga & Bay of 1 • Karikari Peninsula’s Beaches: This is Plenty” in chapter 8. the Far North at its subtropical best— • Kaiteriteri Beach: Half of Canterbury endless sweeps of sparkling white sand makes a beeline for these blissful shores lapped by crystal-clear, azure-blue every summer. It’s not expansive—in fact waters. And from Tokerau Beach to it’s quite small, but perfectly formed Rangiputa to Matai Bay, you could nonetheless, and there’s a busy vacation have miles of it to yourself for beach- atmosphere with packed campgrounds combing, sunbathing, and swimming and holiday houses. And with Nelson’s (with care). See “Bay of Islands & the endless hours of sunshine, who could Far North” in chapter 7. complain about size? See “Nelson, Rich- • Coopers Beach: Partly shaded by a mond & Motueka” in chapter 13. bank of red-emblazoned pohutukawa • Abel Tasman National Park’s Beaches: THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS ACTIVE BEST THE trees, ZEALAND NEW OF BEST THE how could you not be content to Bush-wrapped and locked between stretch out here? Exercise? A walk to the rocky headlands, these idyllic golden water should do it! See “Bay of Islands patches from Marahau north to Tota- & the Far North” in chapter 7. ranui are accessible by sea only. That’s • Hot Water Beach: Don’t ask me why, or what makes them so special. Gliding how, but if you get here 2 hours before through the turquoise waters in your sea or after low tide, you can hollow out a kayak, with curious seals to keep you spot on the beach for yourself, and then company, you can take your pick of iso- wait for natural hot water to seep up lated havens. See “Abel Tasman National through the sand. A natural spa experience Park & Golden Bay” in chapter 13.

3 THE BEST ACTIVE VACATIONS

• Scuba Diving in the Poor Knights: the best diving spots in the world. This Jacques Yves Cousteau rated this among unique marine reserve has the best of South Island at a Glance 5

NewNew PlymouthPlymouth 43 Area of AAucklanduckland CCapeape EEgmontgmont Mt.Mt. EEgmontgmont detail 45 25182518 m NORTHNORTH Egmont National Park ISLANDISLAND WWanganuianganui Taihape SOUTH ISLAND NNORTHO R T H Christchurch 40˚ S ISLAND THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND Dunedin . S T AbelAbel TasmanTasman M A Nat’lNat’l ParkPark U MarlboroughMarlborough AR AR

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0 100 mi 170˚ E N SStewarttewart IslandIsland 0 100 km 6 tropical currents sweeping in to make it • Walking the Glaciers: Dig out those warm and inviting for a wide variety of boots and walking poles, add a tropical species that aren’t found any- dash of nerve and daring, and take the where else in New Zealand’s waters. See walk of a lifetime down Fox or Franz “Into the Deep Blue Sea” on p. 189. Josef glaciers in the deep south. And • Blackwater Rafting in the Waitomo don’t forget your camera so you can Glowworm Caves: Daredevils can now bring home those unforgettable views go underground to leap off waterfalls; into the snow caves. See “Franz Josef & slink through dark, damp, underground Fox Glaciers” in chapter 15. waterways; rappel off Lost World rock • Getting Wild in Queenstown: This is faces; and do other things in the dark. See New Zealand’s adrenaline capital, “Hamilton & the ” in chapter 8. where you get more than one chance to • Trout Fishing in Taupo: They say the show how crazy you really are. There fish in Lake Taupo are so big that when are more daredevil stunts per square you catch one, the lake level drops. The inch here than anywhere else in the dozens of other rivers (especially world- country. An international mecca renowned Tongariro) and streams in the in winter, it readily transforms itself region also have rich pickings for the into summer madness as well. See fisherman. See “Taupo” in chapter 9. “Queenstown” in chapter 16. • Sea Kayaking in Abel Tasman National • Walking the Fiordland Tracks: If you 1 Park: It takes a lot to beat this balmy fancy yourself as a multiday tramper, little paddle into the best-preserved and there’s plenty to keep you out of mis- most beautiful coastline of New Zea- chief in Fiordland. This is where you land. Keep company with nosy seal pups get some of the best walks in the and dolphins; call into pristine, deserted world—the Milford, the Hollyford, the beaches; and explore rocky headlands. Kepler, and the Routeburn tracks. See See “Abel Tasman National Park & “Tramping” in chapter 5 and “Te Anau” Golden Bay” in chapter 13. in chapter 16.

4 THE BEST OF NATURAL NEW ZEALAND

• Ninety Mile Beach and Cape Reinga: Bubble, Toil & Trouble: The Geothermal From the spiritual tip of the North Attractions” on p. 224. Island where, Maori say, the souls of the • : Three major dead depart, to mountainous sand volcanoes dominate a rugged central THE BEST OF NATURAL NEW ZEALAND NEW NATURAL OF BEST THE dunes, ZEALAND NEW OF BEST THE quicksand, and the broad flat plateau landscape: Ruapehu, Tongariro, stretch of Ninety Mile Beach, this is a and Ngauruhoe. An indomitable three- must-see area filled with the unex- some, they’re rife with Maori legend pected. See “Bay of Islands & the Far and rich in a few modern stories as well. North” in chapter 7. Great for skiers, trampers, and anyone • Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland: The else wanting a physical challenge. See earth’s molten core hints at its artistic “Tongariro National Park” in chapter 9. potential in a veritable rainbow of color • Fox and Franz Josef Glaciers: This is and steamy chaos manifested in geysers, one of the very few places on earth where mud pools, hot bubbling lakes, steamy you’ll find full-fledged glaciers this close terraces, and more. A photographer’s to the ocean. In a slow, ever-onward paradise, but tread carefully. See “Bubble, creep, they make their way from the heights of the Southern Alps down into waterfalls, wild beaches, unforgettable 7 untouched rainforest. See “Franz Josef & tangles of driftwood, and a frustratingly Fox Glaciers” in chapter 15. changeable climate—the area takes a lot • Fiordland: Come here on a wet day of beating, but the resulting dramatic (and that’s easy because this place gets impact is unforgettable. See “Dunedin” the most rainfall in New Zealand), and in chapter 17. you’ll think you’ve stepped into the liv- • Ulva Island: Tucked into Stewart ing set of The Lord of the Rings. This Island’s Paterson Inlet, tiny Ulva Island place defies all superlatives. It is the will leave you speechless with its incred- ultimate must-see. See “Te Anau” in ible native bird life. It’s wall-to-wall THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND chapter 16. feathers here—and what’s more, they’re • The Catlins Coast: This is wild, natu- not afraid of humans. Don’t go without ral New Zealand at its unspoiled best. your camera; you’ll need evidence once From unique fossil forests to all manner you start telling friends back home about of seabirds and mammals, native bush, it. See “Stewart Island” in chapter 17.

5 THE BEST TRAMPS

For details, see “Tramping” in chapter 5. • The Milford Track: The mother of • Tongariro Crossing: Often described them all, the Milford is one of the 1 as one of the best 1-day walks in New world’s best and most-loved multiday Zealand, this high-altitude hike across tramps. Stretching through the best of THE BEST TRAMPS volcanic terrain will give you cold Fiordland, this 54km (33-mile) trail mountain springs, lava flows, an active follows the Clinton and Arthur valleys crater, emerald-colored crater lakes, and and crosses McKinnon Pass with views unforgettable views. Ideal for the fit and you’ll never forget. See “Te Anau” in enthusiastic hiker. See “Tongariro chapter 16. National Park” in chapter 9. • The Routeburn Track: Like the Mil- • The Abel Tasman Coastal Track: This ford and the Hollyford before it, this is an easy 3- to 5-day walk where the track makes its way into virgin rainfor- guided option gives you the choice of est and the sort of wild fairyland scen- ditching those hefty packs. From start ery where you’d expect to see elves and to finish, 52km (32 miles) later, it gnomes prancing around. See “Queens- winds in and out of gorgeous sheltered town” in chapter 16. coves, golden beaches, rocky headlands, • The North West Circuit: This is a real and natural unspoiled bush. See “Abel test for experienced trampers who think Tasman National Park & Golden Bay” they can face 10 to 12 days walking in chapter 13. 125km (78 miles) through bird-filled • The Heaphy Track: No softy guided native bush, big beaches, and long options here: You go it alone for 4 to 6 stretches knee-deep in mud. I’m told days from the junction of the Brown and the rewards are plenty. See “Stewart Aorere rivers, across tussock-covered flats Island” in chapter 17. to the wild seas of Karamea on the West Coast. See “Westport & Karamea” in chapter 15. 8 6 THE BEST VIEWS

• Sky Tower: The paramount city view in streets, you’ll be rewarded with post- not only New Zealand, but also the card-perfect vistas of glass-faced high- entire Southern Hemisphere. Once you rises silhouetted against the harbor. get out of that glass-faced lift 328m Step off the cute red cable car into the (1,076 ft.) above the city, you’ll know verdant acres of the Botanical Gardens just what I mean. Fabulous 360-degree and look seaward. No matter what the views of unfold below, and weather, the view is always memorable. you can test your courage by walking See p. 307. over glass floors! See p. 141. • Queenstown’s Skyline Gondola: It’s • Hicks Bay: Stop at the high point everybody’s aim to get high in Queen- above Hicks Bay before you descend stown one way or another. Make yours into Te Araroa to see New Zealand’s by way of a smooth gondola ride to the largest pohutukawa tree and the East top of Bob’s Peak. Step out into the Cape Lighthouse. Resting awhile, high cool, crisp, exceedingly fresh air with up between the two bays, see if you can New Zealand’s playground spread out imagine Captain Cook’s expression at your feet. The Remarkables will keep when he first sighted the area, and his the view in check, and relief to be leaving again after a tragic will be a big blue basin below. See 1 Maori massacre in which one European “Queenstown” in chapter 16. was killed and eaten on his wedding • Nugget Point: You may not have seen night. See “Gisborne & the East Cape” another human being for hours by the in chapter 10. time you make your way to the lookout • Hastings’s Te Mata Peak: A big “sleep- above Nugget Point. And once you’ve ing giant” of a hill, 393m (1,289-ft.) experienced the blissful solitude of high, Te Mata affords big views of end- standing on this wild, wind-swept Cat-

THE BEST DRIVES BEST THE less ZEALAND NEW OF BEST THE green and brown undulations, lins promontory, you probably won’t reaching all the way to the coast. Have- care if you don’t see anyone for several lock North, Hastings, and Napier all more. Thick, swirling masses of kelp, blend together below. See “Hawke’s seals, penguins, and seabirds are here by Bay” in chapter 10. the hundreds. See “Dunedin” in chap- • Wellington’s Kelburn Cable Car: Not ter 17. so far above the capital’s busy shopping

7 THE BEST DRIVES

• Auckland City to Mission Bay: This is over million-dollar real estate. See “Ori- the stuff of a weekend afternoon spin to entation” in chapter 6. see how the other half lives. Best done • Rotorua’s Blue and Green Lakes: From in a Ferrari, a BMW, an Audi, or an the stately redwood forest on the edge of equally cool classic if you want to leave town, all the way past the Blue and Green a lasting impression. Tight shorts and lakes to the Buried Village and Lake in-line skates do the trick just as well if Tarawera and back again, you’ll squeal you want a cheaper set of wheels. Do with delight at a dozen different things. the cafe crawl; join the walkers, the run- There are lots of picnic spots on the way, ners, and the dog strollers; or just drool but the Landing Café at Lake Tarawera is a good bet if you forget the hamper. See • Greymouth to Westport: Pretty, pretty, 9 “Rotorua” in chapter 9. pretty! Nikau palms, native bush, tree • The Capital to Mellow Martinbor- ferns, jagged rocks, roaring surf, and the ough: Once you’ve left the motorways big blue Tasman Sea combine to make behind, you’ll be up and over the wind- this a lovely half-day outing. Be sure to ing Rimutaka Hill Road in little more stop at the famous Punakaiki Pancake than 40 minutes. Then it’s downhill all Rocks, where blowholes have a spec- the way to Martinborough’s enchanting tacular hissy fit as the ocean roars into, pocket of prizewinning wineries. Sur- under, and around rocky caverns on the render to hedonism and squander time coast. See “Westport & Karamea” in THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND in idyllic vineyard settings. Make the chapter 15. only exercise you do raising your glass, • The Famous Milford Road: Even the or at most a wee stroll through pretty -Haast road can’t match the little Martinborough Village, where splendor of this one. It’s been called one cute shops await. See “A Side Trip to of the best drives in the world, and no Wairarapa” in chapter 12. amount of raving can do it justice. You • Queen Charlotte Sound: Take the really have to experience it. Virgin rain- scenic loop from Picton to the little forest, mirrorlike lakes, astounding fishing village of Havelock and back to waterfalls (especially during rain), beech Picton on the main highway. Stop and forest, mountains of moss, bright admire the bush-clad sounds and the orange lichens, and sheer mountain 1 boats, and indulge in fresh green-lipped faces thousands of feet high contribute

mussels grown in these very waters at to the overall picture—not to mention THE BEST GARDENS the Mussel Boys restaurant, in Have- the slightly daunting Homer Tunnel. lock. It’s a narrow winding road around See “Milford Sound” in chapter 16. the Sounds, so take it quietly. See “Pic- ton & Blenheim” in chapter 13.

8 THE BEST GARDENS

• Hamilton Gardens: Stretched along in autumn for unforgettable color dis- the banks of the Waikato River, this plays—and bring a camera. See “Gis- blissful, relatively new 58-hectare (143- borne & the East Cape” in chapter 10. acre) reserve is a lovely place to wander • Pukeiti Rhododendron Trust: Here and picnic. Development began around you get a world-class collection of rho- 30 years ago; there’s now a well-estab- dodendrons, viraya, and azaleas set in a lished Asian garden, English garden, centuries-old forest near Mount herb and scented gardens, and lavish Egmont—our little Mount Fuji. The stands of trees. See “Hamilton & the gardens spread over many acres in a Waikato” in chapter 8. lovely rural setting 30 minutes from • Eastwoodhill Arboretum: One of the New Plymouth. See “New Plymouth: most magical places in the country, Gateway to Egmont National Park” in hardly a garden by normal standards, chapter 11. this astounding collection—the best in • Christchurch’s Botanic Gardens: New Zealand—is one man’s life’s work Regardless of the season, this central- and presents over 3,500 species often city acreage has plenty to offer, but it’s studied by international scientists. Go quintessentially Christchurch when the 10 daffodils and bluebells bloom under the stately are all words that instantly spring huge oak trees along the Avon River to mind. Definitely English-inspired and avenues of weeping cherries burst and modeled after the best of England’s into color. This is when people think of stately gardens, with quirky New Zea- England. See p. 376. land modifications. See “Exploring • Mona Vale: This little beauty is often Christchurch” in chapter 14. overlooked in favor of the city’s Botani- • Dunedin Chinese Garden: Here is an cal Gardens, but it has an intimate unexpected chance to see one of just charm all its own. Spreading out around three truly authentic Chinese gardens a stately Victorian home, these public created outside of China. Built in gardens have myriad lovely features, Shanghai by Chinese artisans, the gar- including iris collections along stream den was dismantled and then shipped banks, fountains, hostas by the yard, to Dunedin, where it was reconstructed and that old favorite, the rose, which under the supervision of Chinese crafts- does so well in Canterbury. See “Explor- men. This is a beautiful addition to this ing Christchurch” in chapter 14. southern city’s quirky list of attractions. • Ohinetahi: If you’re a garden fan, this See “Parks & Gardens” on p. 486. is a must. Formal, architectural, and

9 THE BEST MUSEUMS 1 • Auckland Museum: After a very sig- museums in the world, this giant new nificant internal revamp, this museum edifice on Wellington’s waterfront is said is everything you’d want in a city’s store- to be 5 years ahead of anything else like house of treasures: fun, interactive, it. Truly bicultural, it’s a magical place attractive, informative, and filled with where art and artifacts meet technologi- interesting collections. Its Maori and cal brilliance, creating riveting displays Polynesian section, the biggest in the and interactive playthings for all ages.

THE BEST MUSEUMS BEST THE world, ZEALAND NEW OF BEST THE sends shivers down your spine; if You’ll find everything from a whale skel- you’ve got kids, let them loose in the eton and a working Maori marae to art Discovery Centre, where they can collections and virtual-reality diversions. legally stick their fingers into just about See p. 306 in chapter 12. anything. See p. 140 in chapter 6. • Canterbury Museum and the Interna- • New Zealand National Maritime tional Antarctic Centre: Although Museum: At the pinnacle of New Zea- these two museums are completely sep- land’s boating history—with the Amer- arate entities located miles apart, ica’s Cup Challenge right in our together they present a terrific overview backyard—the Maritime Museum is of life and history in Antarctica. booming. Look for KZ1 outside, and Nowhere else in the world will you find inside discover 1,000 years of the coun- this much gathered information about try’s maritime history. See sail makers, the great icy continent. There’s every- boat builders, and wood-turners at thing from wildlife displays to human work and take a cruise on one of the exploration accounts and a real ice vessels. See p. 144 in chapter 6. chamber so you can get the feel of life • Museum of New Zealand—Te Papa in subzero temperatures. See p. 375 and Tongarewa: One of the largest national p. 376 in chapter 14. 11 10 THE BEST MAORI EXPERIENCES

• Auckland Museum: This is the perfect as it used to be pre-European settlement. place for an early lesson in things You’ll tour the village with a Maori elder, Maori. The recently revamped museum learn the ancient myths, watch a tradi- has the largest collection of Maori arti- tional performance, and eat from a tradi- facts in the world. Large war canoes, tional hangi. See “Rotorua” in chapter 9. meetinghouses, greenstone weapons, • Whakarewarewa Thermal Village: This and feather cloaks are here. On top of small village of just 70 or so people has a THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND that, the Manaia Maori Performance 300-year history of settlement. It’s prob- Group puts on a stunning show three ably the only place in the world where times a day. See p. 140. people live in such proximity to geother- • Te Puia’s Whakarewarewa Thermal mal activity and still harness the natural Reserve and New Zealand Maori Arts forces of the earth for washing and cook- & Crafts Institute: Maori guides will ing. See “Rotorua” in chapter 9. lead you through the thermal reserve, • East Cape: This is a remote enclave of explaining the significance of the area Maori culture—one of the last places in to the Maori people. There’s also a live New Zealand where the Maori language song-and-dance performance, a tour of is part of everyday life. You’ll find more a replica Maori village, and the chance than 100 marae scattered along the to watch working weavers and carvers length of the East Cape Road, and if 1

in the Arts & Crafts Institute, which you ask permission, in most cases you’ll THE BEST B&BS was set up in 1963 to foster traditional be allowed to enter. There are numer- craft skills. See p. 221. ous Maori settlements and highly deco- • Tamaki Maori Village: This re-created rative Maori churches. See “Gisborne & ancient Maori village presents Maori life the East Cape” in chapter 10.

11 THE BEST B&Bs

• A-Kahu (Rotorua; & 07/347-4148): I • Glendinning House (Dunedin; & 03/ had one of the best B&B stays in New 477-8262): Sandy Black and Jocelyn Zealand with Kiri Atkinson-Crean and Robinson live in an elegant brick man- her husband Nigel Crean—a young, sion in the nicest part of town. Jocelyn, contemporary Maori couple, who will a former caterer, tempts guests with give you a real insight into what it means ongoing edible treats. Rooms are huge to be Maori in modern New Zealand. and are the perfect place to imagine life On top of that, their beds and rooms are as a wealthy colonialist. See p. 493. divine, the food is fantastic, and there is • Elgin House (Dunedin; & 03/453- laughter aplenty. See p. 231. 0004): Roger and Carolyn Rennie have • Booklovers Bed and Breakfast (Wel- mastered the art of spoiling their guests, lington; & 04/384-2714): Journalist and their gorgeous old three-story home and author Jane Tolerton is a woman is riddled with character, history, charm, with a passion for history and the aston- and hospitality. Don’t miss it! See p. 492. ishing book collection to prove it. Her • Pencarrow (Queenstown; & 03/442- charming city villa bulges with books 8938): You’ll have to completely revise and her rooms are large, comfortable, your benchmark for service and value and close to town. See p. 299. 12 for money after staying with Bill and backdrop of rural history and spectacu- Kari Moers. They give a whole new lar scenery. See p. 436. meaning to guest comforts, and I think • Maison de la Mer (Akaroa; & 03/304- they should give lessons to B&Bs every- 8907): If you want to know how a top where. See p. 458. B&B should be run, visit the experts. • Waiorau Homestead (Wanaka; & 03/ Bruce and Carol Hyland have hosted 443-2225): Get a taste of the country over 14,000 guests during their tenure in this beautifully restored homestead, in the hospitality industry, and their where chef Blyth Adams and his wife, new Akaroa venture is as luscious as Ann Lockhart, will spoil you rotten. their last. You’d be silly to miss it. See Modern comforts prevail against a p. 395.

12 THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS

• Kauri Cliffs (Kerikeri; & 09/407-0010): unique native bush environment, it’s a I could find no fault whatsoever with this true sanctuary that will lower your sublime northern retreat. It is, as the say- heart rate within minutes of arriving. ing goes, “heaven on a stick,” and I’m not See p. 230. even a golfer! The staff here are some of • The Farm at Cape Kidnappers & 1 the friendliest in the country and the (Hawke’s Bay; 06/875-1900): Like rooms—especially the bathrooms—are its big sister, Kauri Cliffs, this stay my idea of true luxury. See p. 184. richly deserves all the superlatives. It’s a • Eagles Nest (Russell; & 09/403- case of “your wish is our command” 8333): Combine the very best of inter- here and if you’re a golfer, you’ll love national taste with the magic of what is rated the 10th best course in the Northland’s subtropical environment world outside the U.S. The cliff-edge, and a rich vein of natural energy, and rural setting is to die for. See p. 269. you get a luxury retreat quite unlike any • Eichardt’s Private Hotel (Queenstown; other in New Zealand. Daniel and & 03/441-0450): This new Small Lux- Sandie Biskind have created a world- ury Hotels of the World member has class retreat worthy of anyone’s pro- received glowing accolades in Andrew longed attention. See p. 184. Harper’s Hideaway Report, and it’s becom- • Huka Lodge (Taupo; & 07/378- ing the hotel of choice for discerning, 5791): Exclusivity reigns supreme at upscale travelers. In a remodeled historic this Small Luxury Hotels of the World building in central Queenstown, it oozes THE BEST LUXURY ACCOMMODATIONS LUXURY BEST THE member. ZEALAND NEW OF BEST THE International awards bounce first-class style and understated glamour. off the walls, and guests invariably com- It remains one of my favorites. See p. 457. ment on rooms fit for kings. It has a • Blanket Bay (Queenstown; & 03/442- supreme location beside the Waikato 9442): If you want luxury on a grand River just above the Huka Falls and a scale in a majestic setting to match, reputation for quality and service that look no further than Blanket Bay. These seems impossible to shake. See p. 242. gorgeous stone buildings marry so com- • Treetops Lodge & Estate (Rotorua; pletely with the awesome landscape, it & 07/333-2066): My expectations seems as if they were always here. may never be the same again after stay- Inside, you’ll find an outstanding level ing at Treetops. Being spoiled with one of service and comfort. What more of the most gorgeous suites in the coun- could you want? See p. 462. try tends to have that effect. Set in a 13 13 THE BEST BOUTIQUE HOTELS & SMALL LODGES

• Te Whau Lodge (Waiheke Island; experience, and one of my top picks for & 09/372-2288): Every time I visit Te something unique and memorable. See Whau I’m convinced all over again that p. 300. Gene O’Neill and Liz Eglinton give you • House (Arrowtown; & 03/

the best of everything—winning per- 441-6008): This brand-new boutique THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND sonalities, fabulous food, great rooms, hotel is the third brainchild of seasoned and views you won’t believe. There’s travelers and hosts alike, Steve and Jea- something quintessentially Kiwi about nette Brough, who are two of the best the whole experience that I’m proud to hosts in the country. Located in a recommend. See p. 165. pretty, tree-lined residential street, it’s • Ridge Country Retreat (Tauranga; an understated haven within a short & 07/542-1301): The generosity and walk of the village. See p. 461. style of rooms here leave many more • River Birches (Turangi; & 0800/102- expensive stays in the shade. Joanne 025): This is one of my favorite new O’Keeffe and Penny Oxnam were some discoveries. Transplanted New Yorker of the best (and funniest) hosts on my Jason Bleibtreu and his wife Rebecca— last road trip, and I’m confident your both former journalists covering the 1 expectations will be exceeded at every world’s hot spots—have spent years liv- level. The food is divine! See p. 213. ing in hotels, so they know exactly what THE BEST RESTAURANTS • Millar Road (Hastings; & 06/875- it takes to create a restful haven. They’ve 1977): Waking up to staggering views imbued this special place with an extra over vineyards, orchards, and rolling level of professionalism that’s hard to green hills is only part of the pleasure of fault. And the location? Right beside this exquisite stay. Somewhere between one of the best trout-fishing rivers in lodge and B&B, these two modern, the world! See p. 245. self-contained “cottages” are divine. I • Remarkables Lodge (Queenstown; can’t get the memory of them out of my & 03/442-2720): Brian Savage and head. It’s a classy, unexpected gem filled Colleen Ryan sailed the world for 10 with contemporary New Zealand art, years chartering their yacht. We can be and I know you’ll want to stay at least a thankful they came ashore in Queens- week! See p. 270. town and took this well-established • Ohtel (Wellington; & 04/803-0600): lodge and shook it by the scruff of the I couldn’t believe my luck when I found neck. With new life and an understated this small, chic, ecofriendly, waterfront level of class that puts it above many, it’s hotel packed to the gills with collect- a top retreat tucked into the foot of the ible mid-century modern furniture. It’s very remarkable Remarkables moun- an unbeatable value, a total sensory tains. See p. 460.

14 THE BEST RESTAURANTS

• White (Auckland; & 09/978-2000): of celebrated consulting chef Luke Named for its stunning minimal all- Mangan, who owns the award-winning white interior, White is the handiwork restaurant Salt in Sydney. Its best feature 14 is the Table, a big informal table for top meat cuts and wild game—it diners who like the idea of mixing with shouldn’t be bypassed. See p. 301. others over an outstanding meal. See • Herzog (Blenheim; & 03/572-8770): p. 135. Expect the very best from this winery • The French Café (Auckland; & 09/ and restaurant that has been held up 377-1911): This is posh-plush (in an by New York’s Wine Spectator for its elegant, understated kind of way) and impressive stock of around 3,200 of the professionalism-plus. Consistently rated world’s best wines. It’s a fine-dining one of Auckland’s best and most roman- experience you won’t forget in a hurry. tic restaurants, this little den will take See p. 334. your taste buds to new, dizzying heights. • Rotherams (Christchurch; & 03/341- See p. 135. 5142): Swiss-born chef Martin Weiss • DINE By Peter Gordon (Auckland; has mastered the art of stunning his & 09/363-7030): This sleek, dimly lit hungry patrons. In an interior that’s all culinary “palace” is the new playground about romance and special occasions, of London/New Zealand celebrity chef he presents meals that excel in both Peter Gordon. Set in the new SKYC- presentation and taste. Not to be ITY Grand Hotel, it’s fusion cuisine at missed—likewise the extensive wine its best. Just make sure you save a few list. See p. 372. good breaths for gasping at the bill. See • The Bunker (Queenstown; & 03/441- 1 p. 135. 8030): Don’t start celebrating until • Logan Brown (Wellington; & 04/801- you’ve actually found it and are sitting 5114): Located in a restored bank at one of its tables! Notoriously hard to building on the edge of the red-light find (that’s part of its charm), and district, this restaurant is guaranteed to expensive when you get there, this hid- exceed your expectations. Consistently den culinary jewel delivers on all the voted one of the capital’s best eateries— superlatives it receives. Make sure you for its service and its delicious focus on hunt it down. See p. 464.

THE BEST SHOPPING BEST THE ZEALAND NEW OF BEST THE 15 THE BEST SHOPPING

• Auckland: The whole city is a treasure- crafts, look to Tamaki Maori Village. trove of shops. Try the chic fashion and See “Rotorua” in chapter 9. design shops of High Street; interna- • Wellington: The Old Bank Building tional designers duty-free at DFS Gal- on Lambton Quay has only added to leria Customhouse; upmarket boutiques the electric atmosphere of this capital in Parnell; antiques on Manukau Road; shopping area. Wander the length of mainstream fashion in Newmarket— the Quay for fashion, books, shoes, and plus the super-classy Nuffield Street more; move up through Willis Street and its top designer labels; big mall for more of the same, and into Cuba shopping at St. Luke’s Shopping Cen- Mall for edgy design stores and off-the- tre; and fabulous specialty shops on wall retail surprises. Check out Tinakori K’Road and Ponsonby Road. See Road for a handsome cluster of bou- “Shopping” in chapter 6. tiques. See “Shopping” in chapter 12. • Rotorua: A rich vein of New Zealand • Nelson: Long recognized as the best souvenirs runs right through the whole region for leisure crafts shopping, city, but for the best Maori arts and greater Nelson is dotted with hundreds of pottery, craft, and jewelry studios. boutique stores; and Merivale Mall for 15 Find international-quality art glass at upmarket fashion and specialty shops. Höglund Art Glass Studio and go from See “Shopping” in chapter 14. there. Many craftspeople are located • Hokitika and Greymouth: Jade/green- out in the country, so you get a bonus stone/pounamu and gold are found in look at the countryside as well. See abundance in these two West Coast “Nelson, Richmond & Motueka” in towns. Stores specializing in both are chapter 13. found side by side in both Hokitika and • Christchurch: The Arts Centre Galle- Greymouth. See “Greymouth & Lake ria is home to about 40 crafts stores Brunner” and “Hokitika: Greenstone, THE BEST OF NEW ZEALAND selling a wide range of goods, from Glowworms & Gold” in chapter 15. sheepskin products and leather to • Queenstown: This is the home of wood-turned bowls and ceramics. More expensive shopping. You’ll find that turn up for the weekend Arts Centre most things have big price tags, but the Market. Also in Christchurch, check quality is invariably tops. There are out High Street for an eclectic mix of leading New Zealand and international antiques, secondhand stores, cafes, and clothing labels, sheepskin products, new and old clothing boutiques; Cashel souvenirs, leather, original arts and Mall for fashion and design stores; Vic- crafts, and masses of jewelry. See toria Street for a whole host of new “Queenstown” in chapter 16. 1

16 THE BEST AFTER DARK FUN THE BEST AFTER DARK FUN

• Dinner on High: Dining in Auckland’s • Seeing Stars: This is your chance to see Sky Tower Observatory restaurant over the wonders of the Southern Hemi- 1,000 feet above New Zealand’s largest sphere sky in a whole new way. Fresh city gives new meaning to the phrase from a major refurbishment, the Carter “getting high.” Take your pick from a Observatory features exciting exhibi- terrific menu and enjoy your meal gaz- tions and multimedia presentations that ing out over the sparkling waters of take you on an amazing interplanetary Waitemata Harbour and the city below. adventure. If you thought our skies Before or after dinner, make sure you were bright and starry before you went take time to look through the high- in, you’ll come out with a fresh appre- powered binoculars on the Observation ciation of their beauty. See “Exploring Deck. See “Exploring Auckland” in Wellington” in chapter 12. chapter 6. • Meeting the Creatures of the Night: • Soaking Under the Stars: What could There’s always something going on at be better than lying back in the hot, Wellington Zoo after dark, and this soothing mineral waters of Rotorua’s could be your chance to find out which award-winning Japanese Buro pools at animals wake up as everyone else goes the Polynesian Spa, set among rocks to sleep. If you time it right, you could and waterfalls beside the misty Lake join one of the group sleepovers (mini- Rotorua, looking up at the stars? The mum numbers required); or, if you complex has 27 pools in total (some don’t fancy bedding with the animals, indoors), including 13 lovely private check out the zoo’s summer evening pools. This is the perfect place to ease program. They often have picnic eve- sore muscles after a long day exploring. nings with live jazz or blues to add to See “Rotorua” in chapter 9. 16 the entertainment. See “Exploring Wel- The best time to go is after dark on a lington” in chapter 12. Thursday, Friday, or Saturday when there • Eating on the Move: See the sights of are bigger crowds. Nearby Poplar Lane is Christchurch and enjoy dinner at the a similar, smaller development with more same time. Climb aboard the Tramway funky bars. See “Christchurch After Restaurant in one of the city’s beautifully Dark” in chapter 14. restored trams and savor a four course • Now Showing: At Wanaka’s Cinema dinner while you complete five circuits Paradiso you’ll get a night at the movies of the tramway through central city. See like no other. Think old hall, castoff “Meals on Wheels” in chapter 14. armchairs, big cushions and sofas, and • Art After Dark: Enjoy one of the larg- even an old car to give you the drive-in est permanent art collections in New feel. Factor in a 30-minute cafe-snack Zealand when Christchurch Art Gallery break and you’re guaranteed a unique opens its doors for its weekly late night night at the movies See “The Big on Wednesday evenings. There are Screen” in chapter 16. 5,500 paintings, sculptures, prints, and • Over the Edge: If you ran out of time to drawings for you to peruse, and an complete a bungy jump during the day, excellent restaurant for you to dine in fear not, for there’s still time. At the before or after soaking up Canterbury Ledge, A. J. Hackett and his crew have culture. See “Exploring Christchurch” created the ultimate nighttime jump. You 1 in chapter 14. can’t see how far you’re falling in the • Bar Hopping: If you’re a night owl look- dark, so if you were too afraid to try it in ing for a good time, strut your stuff South daylight, maybe this is for you! You also of Lichfield—more commonly known as get to enjoy a nighttime ride up to the SOL—a new back-alley development Ledge on the gondola, so you’ll have great that features over a dozen lively themed views of all the Queenstown lights twin- bars and restaurants. There are lights kling in Lake Wakatipu. See “Queens- galore, lots of music, and heaps of people. town” in chapter 16. THE BEST AFTER DARK FUN DARK AFTER BEST THE ZEALAND NEW OF BEST THE