Bukchon ()

1. Introduction to Bukchon 2. Bukchon Traditional Culture Center 3. Bukchon 1st View: Changdeokgung Palace 4. Bukchon 2nd View: Wonseo-dong Gongbang-gil

5. Choong Ang High School 6. Bukchon 3rd View 7. Bukchon 4th View 8. Bukchon 5th View 9. Bukchon 6th & 7th Views 10. Bukchon 8th View & Samcheong-dong Observatory 11. Gamgodang-gil Road 12. Jeongdok Library 13. Gyedong-gil Road 14. Samcheondong-gil Road

- 1 - 1. Introduction to Beautiful Hanok Village in Downtown Seoul Bukchon

Welcome to Bukchon. Bukchon, which is located near Palace, Changdeokgung Palace and Shrine, refers to the upper town of Jongno and Cheonggyecheon Stream. In the early days of the Dynasty, the northern and southern towns of the area were called “Bukchon” and “Namchon,” respectively. Now, Bukchon is one of the most famous tourist spots in Seoul. The question is why? It is home to about 1,000 hanoks that represent the traditional beauty of . These hanoks are located in old alleys. Bukchon is also called a “museum in the urban core,” with lots of historic sites, cultural properties and folk relics. You can learn and experience Korean traditional culture at various exhibition halls, museums and craft workshops. Guess who lived in these hanoks? In the Joseon Dynasty, royal and upper class families lived there, as Bukchon was near two palaces. It was also the ideal place to live according to the Feng Shui theory, with Cheonggyecheon Stream in front and Bukaksan Mountain behind it. You can plan your trip to Bukchon around “Eight Scenic Views,” the best photo spots with beautiful scenery. This guide will focus on these eight spots. Before starting your trip, please keep in mind that people live in these hanoks. Please do not peep into a house or make noise in the alleys. Now let’s begin our journey to Bukchon!

- 2 - 2. Bukchon Traditional Guide for Bukchon Tour Culture Center

With so many attractions in Bukchon, you may not know where to start your trip. Then, visit Bukchon Culture Center to get basic information about it. You can get maps in various languages or take a rest there. Bukchon Traditional Culture Center was originally a house built by Min Hyeong-gi, an influential man in the late Joseon era, for his married son. The structure is valuable in Korean architectural history, as it was modeled after Yeongyeongdang Hall in Huwon Garden of Changdeokgung Palace and was built by the palace carpenter. So, it has been listed as one of the Registered Cultural Properties, or modern cultural heritages especially worth preserving. This house has been demolished and reconstructed. However, it still represents the hanok style of the late Joseon era, as its original form has been well preserved. Hanoks in Bukchon usually divide space into small parts. But, the house feels more spacious, as it was built before such style became popular. As the inside is open to the public, you can see the structure in detail. Bukchon Traditional Culture Center provides various programs on Korean traditional culture, including folk paintings, tea ceremony, knots, Korean paper art and traditional music for local residents. Be sure to take time to visit the Center. It is open to all travelers.

- 3 - 3. Bukchon 1st View: View of Changdeokgung Palace over the Changdeokgung Palace stone wall

On your trip to Bukchon, you shouldn’t miss the “Eight Scenic Views of Bukchon,” the eight greatest views of the village. Let’s go to the first spot. At the first spot, you can see Changdeokgung Palace over the stone wall. The Palace was built in 1405 as the second palace in the Joseon Dynasty. To get to the spot, go up the street, passing Bukchon Cultural Center, and you’ll see a small four-way intersection. Then, go to a hill to the right. As you go near the top of the hill, the view of the Palace will slowly appear like a surprise gift for you. At first, you will see the side of the Injeongjeon Hall where the king managed state affairs. Then, there is Gyujanggak Library, the royal library and research center, and Seonwonjeon Hall, the place to hold memorial services for former kings. Changdeokgung Palace was where kings stayed for the longest period of time. It was added to the UNESCO’s World Cultural Heritage list in 1997. It is the only Joseon palace that was added to the list. In the past, kings tried to show off their power by building magnificent and symmetrical palaces. The Forbidden City of China is a good example. Buildings of Gyeongbokgung Palace, the first palace of Joseon, were also built symmetrically. In comparison, Changdeokgung Palace was harmonized with its natural setting, as the terrain was preserved during the

- 4 - construction. Its original form has been best preserved among Joseon palaces. So, it became the first Korean palace designated as the World Cultural Heritage. Kings loved this Palace, as it had a large garden that separated private and official areas, compared with Gyeongbokgung Palace where the two spaces were close together. It is said that most kings in the early Joseon Dynasty preferred this palace to Gyeongbokgung, except for King Sejong who devoted himself to managing state affairs.

- 5 - 4. Bukchon 2nd View: Town of lower class people Wonseo-dong Gongbang-gil

Located between two palaces, Bukchon was home to upper class families. But, lower class people also lived here. Wonseo-dong refers to the western town of Huwon Garden of Changdeokgung Palace. Low-ranking officials and lower class people lived here for generations. This is why Gongbang-gil alley has a rustic atmosphere with small and old hanoks, old shops and craft workshops. At the middle of the alley is the Institute of Korean Royal Cuisine, the academy where one studies royal cuisine of the Joseon Dynasty. The royal cuisine is so historically valuable that it has been designated as an Important Intangible Cultural Heritage. The institute was established by Hwang Hye-seong, who succeeded the last chief cuisine court lady of Joseon. The royal cuisine that appeared in the famous Korean soap opera “Daejanggeum” was all prepared here. It is interesting that the institute is located in Wonseo-dong, which is home to people who served royal families. Why not visit this place to learn about Korean royal cuisine? At the end of the alley is “Wonseo-dong Washing Place”, where you can imagine the lives of ordinary people who did the laundry here. Clean water still flows from where it meets the wall of Changdeokgung Palace.

- 6 - School with old history and great 5. Choong Ang High School tradition

At the end of the hill on Gyedong-gil Road, you will see a western-style stone building which stands out among surrounding hanoks. This is Choong Ang High School that has a history of over 100 years. This historical place is especially popular among foreign tourists because it is famous as the filming site of the Korean TV drama “Winter Sonata”. You can easily see tourists buy pictures of Korean pop stars at nearby shops. Then, what is it like inside the school? The school, built in the early 20th century, looks like a college campus in foreign countries. It looks quite different from most other Korean high schools that are more box shape. It is said that the building was influenced by western schools in Europe and the U.S. Unlike the main building in the front, the east and west buildings are made of red bricks. Between the buildings, you can see a small garden with old streetlamps, benches and garden trees, which are hard to find in other high schools. The three buildings have been designated as Historic Sites because the well-preserved buildings are helpful for research on Korea’s architectural style in the early 20th century, which features influences of foreign architectures. For your information, the school is not open to the public on weekdays so as not to disturb students. Even if it is open for certain hours on the weekends, you should check the opening hours in advance.

- 7 - Harmony of hanoks and traditional craft 6. Bukchon 3rd View workshops

Bukchon 3rd View is a hanok alley with hanoks on each side of a narrow alley. You cannot see inside most hanoks, as there are people living there. But, there are many famous museums and craft workshops where you can go inside and join experience programs with a small admission fee. Han Sang-soo Embroidery Museum exhibits colorful embroidery artworks, and Gahoe Museum displays folk paintings, talisman and other folk relics. You can see beautiful traditional ornamental knots at Donglim Knot Craft Workshop or join various traditional craft programs without reservation at Bukchon Traditional Craft Experience Center. Why are there so many traditional craft workshops in Bukchon? As hanoks began to disappear from the village due to development projects since the late 1960s, the government implemented a policy to preserve hanoks in the 1980s. Also, there were movements to preserve traditional culture. So, the city of Seoul purchased hanoks in the village and leased most of them to traditional craftsmen. While Bukchon Cultural Center shows the traditional form of hanok, hanoks here feature a modern-style hanok structure of the 1930s, when a lot of small hanoks were built simultaneously. Most craft workshops have preserved their original form, so you can guess what people’s lives were like in the past. You can also join experience programs at these workshops. At the end of the hanok alley, cross the road to Donmi Pharmacy to go to Bukchon 4th View. With almost 70 years of history, the Pharmacy is also a famous spot in Bukchon.

- 8 - 7. Bukchon 4th View Sea of Hanok roofs

Hanoks in Bukchon look slightly different from typical hanoks. Then what is the difference? At the fourth spot which is on the hill at 31st Gahoe-dong, you can see the largest cluster of hanoks in the village. Can you see them over the wall? If you can’t, get on the rocks at the base of the left wall. You will discover a sea of hanok roofs covering the hill in soft curves. This is one of the greatest hanok views in the village. Large hanoks for upper class families of the Joseon Dynasty began to disappear in the 1930s, and they were replaced with smaller hanoks for lower class people, creating the unique view of closely located hanoks. Among multiple roofs, one house will stand out. It is the House of Yi Jun-gu, a luxury western-style house with a blue roof. Yi’s family used granite brought from Gaeseong, currently a southern city in North Korea, and tiles from France for the walls and roofs. The family apparently spared no expense on their expensive materials. You can guess what it was like to live as the rich in the Joseon era through the House of Yi Jun-gu. On your way down to Bukchon 5th View, you will see a tall locust tree. In the East, locust trees have symbolized scholars, as its freely growing branches are like a scholar seeking a new field of study. The tree was loved by upper class families in the Joseon period, as it was believed that if you plant this tree, someone in your family would become a famous scholar or official. At the intersection, go up the right hill to see Bukchon 5th View.

- 9 - 8. Bukchon 5th View Dense collection of Hanoks

The hanok alley at 31st Gahoe-dong includes the fifth, sixth and seventh view spots. You will find many pictures of this alley in shops. Here, you can see how hanoks in Bukchon are different from traditional hanoks. At the fifth view spot, take a look at the hanoks along the alley. You will see that many of them have a wall of fixed sized stones with a red pattern on it. Some of them have windows made of glass instead of Korean paper and wood shutters on them. Don’t they look too small for upper class families in the past? Most of them were actually built in the 1930s. Back then, the upper class began to collapse, as the power of the Joseon royal family weakened gradually. So, they found it difficult to maintain a large hanok. At the same time, people needed more houses due to the growth in population in Seoul during the industrialization period. So, private construction firms began to remove large hanoks and build smaller ones, and leased them to common people. This is why hanoks in Bukchon are similar in size and shape. Although they have a modern vibe with its new materials like glass and ceramic tiles, they have a traditional structure with the building surrounding the yard.

- 10 - 9. Bukchon 6th & 7th Representation of Seoul’s 600-year history Views

Having followed a row of hanoks on both sides, look back once you reach the top of the hill. You will see a view of downtown Seoul filled with skyscrapers beyond the hanok roofs. You can also see Namsan Mountain with N Seoul Tower. The observatory on the mountain attracts people who want to enjoy a view of the whole city. You may feel strange when you see the skyscrapers of downtown Seoul beyond the hanoks. This is Bukchon 6th View. Bukchon 7th View is the hanok alley to the right of the 6th View. It looks as if the hanok roofs touch each other across the alley, as it is gently curved to the left. You will see many small flower beds at the base of the stone walls. You can go to Bukchon 8th View by walking up the back alley of the 6th View. On your way, you can visit “the Site of Maeng Sa-seong’s House”. Did you find the stone sign of the site? Maeng Sa-seong served as a Jeongseung, or prime minister of today, in the early 1400s. He was known as a man of integrity. He also taught King Sejong who created the Korean alphabet. He led a frugal life, riding a cow instead of a sedan chair and enjoyed playing the pipe with a deep understanding of music. Here, you can also visit the Asian Art Museum where you can see rare Korean and other Asian relics.

- 11 - 10. Bukchon 8th View & View of Samcheong-dong beneath Samcheong-dong Observatory Inwangsan Mountain

Bukchon 8th View is a flight of stone steps that lead to Samcheong-dong. Let’s go down the steps. These stairs are of a modern style to the middle point, and then the style changes. These low steps are carved out of a single piece of bedrock. Why not walk up and down the steps to feel the charm of the alley. On the way down from the top of the steps to Jeongdok Library, you can see Samcheong-dong Observatory. Here, you can see magnificent Inwangsan Mountain. It was originally called “Seosan Mountain” or a western mountain. But King Sejong changed its name to Inwang, meaning Buddhist guardian deity, with the hope that the mountain would protect the Joseon Dynasty. On the left, at the bottom of the Mountain, you can see Gyeongbokgung Palace, the first palace of Joseon. King Taejo, the founder of Joseon, built the palace on the most auspicious site in the capital. Cheongwadae, the current Korean presidential residence, is located to the north of the Palace. This view reminds people of the 600-year history of Seoul.

- 12 - 11. Gamgodang-gil Road Short trail telling the story of two queens

Besides the “Eight Scenic Views of Bukchon”, you can enjoy the charm of Bukchon in many small alleys. One of them is Gamgodang-gil, which is great for a walk. From Anguk Station to Duksung Girls’ Middle and High School, you can walk along the stone wall, enjoying the shade of the trees in the summer. Then, from the end of the stone wall to Jeongdok Library, you can visit various shops filled with an energetic atmosphere. This road might feel short, but it represents a long history. Gamgodang, meaning a place where you look back on the past, was the name of a house built for Queen Inhyeon’s family by King Sukjong of Joseon in 1687. Her father lived here, and she also stayed here for five years after her dethronement caused by Lady Jang Hui-bin, the royal concubine of the king. The house was named Gamgodang much later by King Yeongjo, who rose to the throne after King Sukjong and King Gyeongjong. He wrote the signboard himself in memory of the queen. Gamgodang means a place where you look back on the past. It is said that Queen Inhyeon, who was childless, loved King Yeongjo like her own son. So, maybe he felt sorry for the queen, who went through a hard time at this place. Hundreds of years later, Gamgodang became home to another queen, Empress Myeongseong who was the wife of King Gojong, the 26th king of Joseon. The Min clan of Queen Inhyeon had lived in Gamgodang for generations, and Empress Myeongseong also lived here as a family member for eight years. Although Gamgodang has been relocated to Yeoju in Gyeonggi-do Province where Empress Myeongseong’s birthplace exists, its name is still remembered as Gamgodang-gil in memory of the two queens.

- 13 - 12. Jeongdok Library Library for citizens and rest area for travelers

Jeongdok Library, which opened its door in 1977, is at the center of the village where Bukchon-gil, Samcheongdong-gil and Gamgodang-gil roads meet together. You will see people reading books and taking a walk here. Then, what attracts people to this library? You can enjoy full-blown cherry blossoms in the garden in the spring and take a rest on a bench under wisteria vines beside a fountain in the summer. The Library gained popularity right after its opening, as there were few libraries in downtown Seoul in the 1970s. People used to wait in a long line at dawn to get a seat. You might wonder why this library was built here in Bukchon. The library building was formerly the Kyunggi High School. With the development of the southern part of Seoul in the 1970s, the government planned to relocate high schools to the south. Kyunggi High School was the first to be moved. Such decision met with severe opposition from students and graduates. They were worried that the history and tradition of their school would disappear. Then, the Seoul Government promised to use the school as a library for citizens. It kept its promise by using the school building, schoolyard and affiliated facilities to make a great library. It would also be fun to visit Seoul Education Museum next to the library. You can learn about Korea’s education history from the fourth century to modern time. The museum displays textbooks, school uniforms and stationery in a chronological order and it also shows a replica of classrooms and stationery stores in the past. You can enter a classroom with old desks, chairs and an organ. An exhibition room with school badges is also very popular.

- 14 - 13. Gyedong-gil Road Old alleys

Bukchon has a variety of attractions besides hanoks, including the unique alleys. Among them, Gyedong-gil road is particularly popular to tourists. Gye-dong was formerly called “Jesaeng-dong,” after Jesaengwon, a public hospital for the poor, was built here in the Joseon Dynasty. In front of the Hyundai Building next to Anguk Station, you can find a stone sign with the words, “Site of Jesaengwon.” Beside it, you will see another stone sign with the words, "Ministry of Health and Welfare". It is interesting that the current ministry in charge of public health is located on the site of Jesaengwon, which treated the poor back in the old days. Gye-dong is a reminiscent of Seoul in the 1970s and 1980s. You will see small restaurants with tiled roofs and shops with old handwritten signs, which attract tourists to this town. In maze-like alleys on the sides of the road, you can see how local residents lead their daily lives in hanoks. You can also visit hanok experience centers or join experience programs at craft workshops. Hanok Homestay Information Center, located in front of Jaedong Elementary School and across the Constitutional Court, provides information about hanok homestay and traditional culture programs. Why not stay overnight at a hanok to have more fun in Bukchon?

- 15 - 14. Samcheondong-gil Great place for sightseeing and for a stroll Road

Samcheongdong-gil road is quite popular among tourists and couples. You can take a walk along the stone wall of Gyeongbokgung Palace and look around and see unique products in small shops. You can also see many famous restaurants here. This might make the road look different from other places in the village, but it also has a long history. The name “Samcheong-dong” was derived from “Samcheongjeon Hall,” which enshrined Three Purities, meaning the three highest gods in Taoism. Some argue that this area was named Samcheong, literally meaning three pure things: pure water, pure mountain and pure-hearted people. It was once known as a tranquil town with no convenience stores, franchises and neon lights. How was this possible in downtown Seoul? Samcheong-dong is located near Gyeongbokgung Palace, Changdeokgung Palace and Cheongwadae, the presidential office. So, development was limited in this area to protect cultural properties and maintain security. Even now, you can easily see police officers standing guard for the presidential office and the prime minister’s office nearby. Thanks to limited development, this area could maintain its unique view of small buildings and hanoks with no tall buildings. Samcheongdong-gil is now filled with restaurants, cafes, galleries and shops, after the development restrictions were partly lifted in the 1990s. Galleries and shops in Gangnam and Insa-dong moved here. This has made this area what it is today. How about having fun on Samcheongdong-gil?

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